Hi admins, Can you please delete my account? Kind regardsby mlagana - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Thank you for the insightful and informative answers, i'm properly dissuadedby mlagana - General
Hi everyone As we know, GCODE is output from a slicer in cartesian coordinates, then if using a non cartesian machine inverse kinematics algorithms run in real time on the MCU in the case of Marlin and I know there are projects that do it on a host computer My question is could we just replace the cartesian values in the GCODE with the translated values prior to runtime. It would require that Gby mlagana - General
yes this is possible, i have been using 35mm film: as you can see it's wise to add a counterweight, that way if you lose power or if you want to emergency cut all power, your nozzle doesn't come crashing down into the print. i would suggest dual belts at both ends 2 motors 1 driver like a prusa, that's what i'm doing on another printer now. with threaded rod set up the z motor actually sleepsby mlagana - Reprappers
my advice: skeinforge (sfact) is your friend, get to know all the paramaters and try and learn some of the gcode commands, there is a G code PDF somewhere in the reprap wikiby mlagana - Reprappers
sounds fixed but if it comes back maybe the nut of the hobbed bolt is slowly doing itself up as you extrude, eventually getting too tight for the motor. it doesn't have to be super tight. i use two nuts, i tighten one to the bearing by hand, the second to it, then i undo the second a bit and using wrenches tighten the first nut back into it, leaving some give. or a nylock would probably have theby mlagana - General
the problem is that pellets come in heavy 10 - 25 kg bags (sometimes cheap bags that can puncture easily) and people all over the world would be spilling them everywhere. not as bad for PLA because it's just going to degrade in the wild, but still filament printing is very easy and much more contained, just swap out the filament. Also this is speculation but we are all used to printing with plasby mlagana - General
i'm testing a J-head nozzle that is working for ABS only, PLA leaks... getting a new one to test soon with a setscrew for the ptfe sleeve and that will be an aluminum nozzle if that goes well i'll be getting it made for sale. for now i've only got the extruder body with motor and hardware for sale: i've just upgraded from wades to gregs:by mlagana - Australia, Sydney RUG
Greg's Hinged Accessible Extruder by GregFrost Rigid polyurethane resin parts originally printed on an objet printer. M8 bolt hobbed on a lathe. M2.5, M3 and M4 hex keys are required. Prices include shipping and are in Australian dollars. select destination:With motor (within Australia) $75.00Without motor (within Australia) $55.00With Motor (International) $85.00Without Motor (Intby mlagana - For Sale
i think you could use 2 motors for multiple extruders, one motor for the pinchwheel and one motor moves a ring of nozzles around like a turret. and possibly when it moves mechanically lifts the idler bearing of the filament then clamps back down on the new when the nozzles have moved around. like a microscope with changing lenses, or a projection turrent changing lens the hardest would be stoppby mlagana - General
the screw terminal looks kinda twisted, did you secure them by using a hand drill? i did that once and i had to fix it by taking out the screw terminal and soldering the thermistor leads straight to the holes but i would suggest replacing the screw terminal instead of doing that.. turn it over, and with repsnapper open just move the thermistor over the connection skipping the screw terminals andby mlagana - Reprappers
i would just get nopheads plastic parts off ebay. they are pretty cheap and quality guaranteed. can't load the ebay links for some reason but they stream from his blog:by mlagana - Reprappers
maybe you tried too much pressure on the springs. if you still have trouble i would undo the springs completely, heat to processing temp and then yank the filament out of the nozzle and extruder and if you are having jams the end kinda molds to the shape of your nozzle and can maybe reveal your problem. although makergear have a pretty good rep around here.by mlagana - General
are the bolts teeth clean or have they become clogged with plastic? that would indicate a jam at your hot end, could be not enough plastic is melting in time to be extruded, too low a temp or too short a melt zone. or maybe the melted plastic is finding its way into gaps in your hot end, joins if you have any and solidiying. if you get plastic in the teeth you have to clean it out to be able toby mlagana - General
well the drinking of coffee with a bit of ABS scenario was a real life event for me so that's good to hear.by mlagana - Australia, Melbourne RUG
this is more z-corp/objet/stratasys level printer. looks cool though no pictures of printsby mlagana - General
Patience!by mlagana - General
i have done some lost foam casting, it's probably the simplest form of metal casting available. no need to really worry about temperatures, if your alu is liquid it's hot enough! just leave a bit of the foam object sticking out of the sand and pour onto that. or stick a new piece of foam on that sticks out the top of the sand. try not to get too close, and do outside and wear chemical mask. apparby mlagana - Casting and Moldmaking Working Group
sorry i'm sold out of hot ends, i'm testing a new one will keep you all posted if/when i get more.by mlagana - Australia, Sydney RUG
i lathed a 5mm hole in my threaded rod slightly less than the motor shaft and tapped it on only gently with a hammer... only problem is now it's there for ever. edit: by 'slightly less' i mean the drill bit way maybe .1 of a mm less or maybe they were the same.by mlagana - General
it was this bit i didn't understand: "The plastic like you normal used mobile phone shell, that is made of ABS, no harm to body."by mlagana - Australia, Melbourne RUG
If a bit of PLA drops into my coffee and i drink it it will digest, ABS though i am pretty sure will harm the body as it's a petrochemicalby mlagana - Australia, Melbourne RUG
stuart i uploaded some photos you can use if you like:by mlagana - Australia, Melbourne RUG
350 is pretty good would you mind linking? second hand? a good place to look would be industrial/business related auctionsby mlagana - General
ABS can print on painters tape but it needs to be heated to stick properly and not warp. you will have more luck with PLA.by mlagana - General
I have a 1.75mm extruder could i please test some? and could you supply your processing temperature? Maybe it would be a bit different because i'm processing it for the second time anyway. i have to find is the lowest temperature i can extrude at to minimise it oozing outby mlagana - Australia, Melbourne RUG
the latest designs mostly have a lining of PTFE tubing for the filament to run down. Before this most extruders had joins in them where the PTFE barrel meets the brass, the molten plastic seems to eventually find its way into the joins and solidify causing jams. So I would either have a long extruder with no joins i.e: (just make sure you have a heat sink and or fan between extruder body and hby mlagana - General
something i've been wanting to try is mixing resin with aluminum powder:by mlagana - For Sale
silicone grease is good for plastics on metal maybe otherwise known as silicone spray or ezy-glide in australiaby mlagana - General
they should work fine, you can buy harder resins though that i would consider for the extruder smaller gear and the gears to drive the belts. especially the extruder smaller gear because of the pressure it takes to extrude and how hot the motor gets. Also for attaching the gears to the motor shafts casting with a nut embedded is ideal over tapping the plastic itself. best of luckby mlagana - For Sale