Actually think I figured this out. Seems like the Z Jerk was too low for it to be able to move the axis fast enough when bed leveling is active. Seems bumping it up a little worked.by blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
The PID settings in the configuration.h are the defaults, I was pretty sure they weren't sane for my setup and was trying to do a PID tune to get proper values. I originally limited the power to 50% because I would try to have it tune at 60c. It would reach the setpoint and way overshoot. It actually kept going until it tripped the thermal fuse @ 125c I originally thought it was just the therby blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
Dangit, nm, it wasn't the SD card. Anyone have any ideas?by blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
Doh, turns out the SD card was bad. Using another one and no stutter.by blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
Well, can't say this is completely fixed. I get stutters while around corners printing from SD card on this machine. Same SD card I and gcode that I used before All I've done is swapped out the bed, updated the PID values and added a BL Touch. It only probes 9 points and does a bilinear bed leveling I know it's not that the board is underpowered, the official Creality firmware is able to do thby blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
Fixed, upgraded to 2.1.2.1-bugfix Now PID acts like I expect.by blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
I'm working on a printer that previously had a 290x290x3mm Aluminum/PCB heatbed running at 24v. I've swapped out the bed for that's 290x305x6.35mm cast tooling plate with a 350w silicone heater attached. The printer is running Marlin 2.1.1. Not using Bang Bang, MAX_BED_POWER is 127 (half power). I'm trying to PID tune it and it reaches temperature fairly quick, seems to turn the heater off anby blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
If I’m reading the docs right, it looks like you don’t need the X parameter in your M305. The way I’m reading it is you’re telling it to set as sensor 1, but use a virtual heater channel of 200. Maybe dc can chime in on that, but I don’t think you need X200 Edit: Oh, I missed PT100. So you have a daughterboard in there, hence the need for the X parameter. Maybe the daughterboard is the issuby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Maybe the thermistor is different? I’d double check you have the right settings for it in config.gby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I’d put the probes on the power supply voltage output and do exactly what you were doing. If it was just heating up to calibrate, do that.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
You wouldn’t think you’d have to if you hadn’t really changed anything. The new heater cartridge you installed is the right voltage? Eh 24v or 12v? Also I wonder if you might put a multimeter on the VDC voltage output from the power supply and try to heat it up. Maybe it’s a power supply issue where it can’t supply enough power anymore for some reason.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Still have the silicone sock on the heater block? Nothing odd like a fan blowing directly on the block or nozzle or anything? If not, I would try doing a heater tune again.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I’d be curious if it will reach and maintain temperature while the effector is stationary. I’d say if it does, and you only start to see issues when it starts moving, it might be an internal break in the wiring that you don’t see until it starts moving. Unless you’re seeing weird readings on the temperature, it’s probably on the water cartridge side. You might just swap out the wiring and maybby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Brian is only selling the rod ends. We have to build the arms. I’m thinking it might be more accurate to get the 350mm injection molded arms from seemecnc. But I wanted to have the option for the Trick Laser ends.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I do, I’ve been using Super Lube Grease with PTFE. The bad magball thing was confirmed by Haydn, there was a batch back in January where the chrome flakes off.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I did get a response from Trick Laser, he has 4 sets left which I bought 2. I contacted him on Facebook. Also 713 maker put the Smart Effector Adapter back in stock when I asked if they’d make me one. I’m gonna burn through the magballs I have and those that Haydn sends me. Then I’m changing the setup.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I contacted Haydn, it seems there was a batch of magballs back in January that had an issue with the chrome wearing off. That’s about the time I replaced mine. I am noticing that this is happening with mine. Looks like when the chrome wears off, it creates an edge that wears away the cup end in the rod. I’m thinking of going with the 713maker adapter for the duet smart effector, the seemecncby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Yeah, I contacted them on Facebook. They don’t do it anymore.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I’d actually like to go with the seemecnc ball studs and trick laser rods. But it seems like trick laser doesn’t make them anymore?by blt3dp - Delta Machines
They’re definitely of interest. I like the idea of the replacement parts being cheap. Maybe just stock some extra in the event they do get work down. I’m also thinking about these. https://www.yeahracing.com/aluminum-reversed-thread-m3-rod-ends-5pcs-black-ya-0572bk-00077947?search=YA-0572BK&description=true I like that the body is aluminum so they’re light, the ball is steel, and there’sby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Yeah, it’s the delrin wearing down. I’ve cleaned all the rod ends using a q-tip and alcohol until the q-tip comes out clean. Made sure to lube them using the recommended line and it still happens. It eventually gets to the point where the magnet runs the ball. I’m looking at solutions also. I’d like to use a rod end that has a bronze insert. That should provide much better longevity. Thougby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Unfortunately I get it on the effector side. Upon inspection, it’s definitely the delrin rod ends wearing down. Also as to losing print volume due to the fans. I wouldn’t use that fan setup. It’s just a ridiculous setup.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I’m thinking about doing this. But with better rod ends. I’d want to take time to model it up so I can make sure I can still hit the full build plate. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3603550by blt3dp - Delta Machines
There’s this thing. https://713maker.com/rostock/duet-smart-effector-adaptorby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Me too, I think it’s just not good design. Delrin on chrome steel, I dunno about long term wear at this point. I wonder if rod ends with steel balls in bronze cups would be better. I can’t say I have a real solution. Quotealex773 I changed my rods with the new ones from Filastruder. After 2 months I noticed the magballs on my effector and carriage adapters were getting this black powder . I lby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I have a Genuine e3d Titan that I’m not using for sale. Would like $30.00 USD + Shipping Shoot me a PM and we’ll figure it out.by blt3dp - For Sale
Funny, I was about to do just this, since the build volume on my main printer is big enough.by blt3dp - Tantillus
Looks a lot better. I believe we're looking at a cooling issue with the remaining stringeys and the bridge quality there. I've never actually printed a bridge yet on my printer, mine might come out the same. I'll print this file and let you know how it goes. You may actually slow down the bridge speed, so the fan has time to cool it mid air.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
That works, though you can actually type in and Slicer will put in whatever the first layer height you set in the gui. Is useful if you change the first layer height, you don't have to remember to change the start gcode.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I would. Though it shouldn't affect your issue. It's only to say if the travel is this short, don't retract.by blt3dp - Delta Machines