Might also be a bad connection somewhere. Cables can fail intermittently which might mimic what you are seeing here. I would check the cables and soldering on the on board connectors.by bryanandaimee - Reprappers
Wiki Megatronics page has a Fritzing diagram on it so I would try that first. Otherwise PM the developer. Most common software around here seems to be either gEDA or KiCad.by bryanandaimee - Controllers
I have some used steppers with a cylindrical ferrite on the cable. I need to extend the wiring and I wondered which end to put the ferrite on. Should it go near the stepper or near the driver for best noise improvement? And while I'm at it how much does twisting the pairs of wires for each coil help? I assume you would generally do one or the other but not both as it seems like twisted pairs woulby bryanandaimee - General
Check for a clogged nozzle. Do a warm pull to try to pull out the gunk. For PLA you heat to extrusion temp and extrude a bit then cool to 80 degrees or so then shut off heat and pull the PLA out slowly. It will stretch but eventually the very end should come out as a plug including the little pit in the nozzle. Then take the nozzle off and check it visually. The hole should be totally clear. If iby bryanandaimee - General
If you've ever had a J-head melt on you you'll know why the all metal hot ends get attention. If you've ever had a fan fail on an all metal hot end you'll know why some steer clear. It's a trade off. The primary purpose of the metal hot ends is to enable higher temperature printing. The plastic hot ends just can't handle some higher temp filaments. In that respect the E3D is all metal even forby bryanandaimee - Reprappers
I think you've already nailed the analysis. Cheap chinese boards often have issues with substitution. FET's might not be beefy enough to drive a heated bed, chip might not have the bootloader burned on it. It will be a bit of a crap shoot whether the board you get will work first time or not. If you have good electronics troubleshooting skills and are familiar with burning the arduino bootloaderby bryanandaimee - Controllers
Or if it was a kit you put together yourself then a new chip should cost you about $8 in single quantity. You'll also need a way to burn the bootloader onto it. Your usb-serial cable will load fimware but it won't burn the bootloader.by bryanandaimee - Developers
Also make sure your first layer isn't too squashed. That can create ridges that really grab the nozzle on the second layer and can cause skipped steps.by bryanandaimee - Reprappers
I haven't personally had much interaction with makerfarm but if I recall, they've been around a while and I think they are reputable. You could try a quick forum search and see what others are saying. Their V-slot prusa I3 looks nice to me. Bryanby bryanandaimee - General
I'll second the reccomendation for Mendel90. Nophead was printing and selling plastic parts 24x7 before most of us even heard of reprap. He has a lot of experience and it shows in his design. Other popular kits include Prusa I3, and ReprapPro mendel. All three of these guys are early adopters and gave a lot to the community. Adrian Bowyer is of course the legend that started it all. He is the oneby bryanandaimee - General
Depends a bit on what you want to upgrade in the future. ReprapPro has a basic Prusa mendel style printer that is built to accept up to three extruders, so it is easy to add dual/tri extrusion to it in the future. Most of these printers have active communities that produce upgrades and updates along the way. Once you get into 3D design and start using your printer you'll find it's pretty easy toby bryanandaimee - General
I've rarely had any issues. Are these parts cracking between layers? If so that means the parts were printed at too cold a temperature. This may mean many of them are destined to fail. I wouldn't worry about the vertices as these are under compression so delamination is unlikely. Other parts like the X axis have parts under tension and delamination is an issue. These are parts you might want to pby bryanandaimee - General
It's the torque. It comes from basic hydraulics, which probably doesn't apply completely. Given that you need a certain pressure at the nozzle, a smaller diameter filament will require less force/torque to drive than a larger, in proportion to the cross sectional area. In this case the 3mm filament has a cross sectional area of ~7mm^2 while the 1.75mm filament has a cross sectional area of `2.4 mby bryanandaimee - Reprappers
Glad to hear you got it figured out. As for the next version it will be a minor revision to make the board more compatible with different style sockets and stuff. Nothing major. For this version though keep in mind the ATmega socket shouldn't have a bar in the middle. Also the USB socket is the type without the little alignment posts. And don't trust the GEDA files for parts list. Take the partsby bryanandaimee - Controllers
Depends a bit on what you need. For single extruder systems there are lots of options. Sanguinololu, RAMPS, Melzi, Sanguish, printrboard. I designed Sanguish as a DIY kit with the intention that hobbyists could save money by building themselves. But looking at Chinese boards on ebay it looks like prices have come way down lately, to the point that unless you are looking for higher stepper currby bryanandaimee - Controllers
Yep, just use the move tool and drag the outline in a bit. I can send you some modified board files if you can't figure it out easily. I'll sneak it in a bit for the next version to avoid that issue. Also for those wanting to self source. Use the Parts list on the wiki. The Geda files don't necessarily have the correct parts and values yet. It's on the list of things to do. (eventually)by bryanandaimee - Controllers
The TB6560's will work fine. They need a longer step pulse than most drivers which is why Marlin firmware doesn't drive them well. Marlin uses a very short step pulse. Teacup firmware already has a fairly long step pulse length and Repetier firmware has a setting to lengthen the pulse so either one will likely get those drivers running fine. There are people who have modified Marlin to work withby bryanandaimee - RAMPS Electronics
I've used it for creating attachments and holders for my work in medical physics. The bulk of data used in treating cancer patients with radiation comes from scanning a small ion chamber in a water tank while the beam is on. It helps to be able to quickly prototype a new chamber holder rather than buying it from the tank manufacturer. Also clips and holders for various accessories like thermometeby bryanandaimee - General
I guess I'd start by looking at toaster oven heating elements or electric stoves. Not sure if either will get to 500 C but probably close. Also there are those cool iniductive ranges that might be fun to play with. Bryanby bryanandaimee - Developers
I've been thinking about a cast hot end using muffler cement. Probably won't get around to it for a while but it's on the list of things I might try. Bryanby bryanandaimee - Developers
Nice catch! I'll have to put that up on the troubleshooting page for Sanguish as soon as I get around to making one.by bryanandaimee - Controllers
I have a few more Sanguish 1.1 kits available from the current batch. I'm trying out the Emakershop.com website so they will be sold through that website. Link to emakershop listingby bryanandaimee - Controllers
You may have a firmware issue with endstops. You can use M119 to query the status of the endstops. If any come back High (H) you'll need to adjust firmware to match your endstops. Also it would help if we knew what drivers and motors you are using. What is the max current of the stepper? What is your driver supposedly outputting at 0.5V? Not all "Pololu's" are the same as there are a lot of cloby bryanandaimee - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
For conventional reprap machines that are easy to build, the Mendel 90 and Prusa V3 are probably the current choices. Both should be easy to build compared to the older models. It looks to me like Mendel 90 is likely a bit quicker build and possibly stiffer in some dimensions than Prusa V3 unless you use the braces that show up on some variants of Prusa V3. If you want easy upgrade to three exby bryanandaimee - General
Sorry I haven't been on for a while. I've been out of it with a big project at work lately. A couple questions. Do the optos pull the signal line high or low when interrupted? Same question for the mechanical switch. The mechanical switch may need to have the internal pull-up set if it's not on a daughter board with pull up. Do the optos have an indicator light? Does it light up when interrupby bryanandaimee - Controllers
Make sure you don't have voltage and ground reversed anywhere. Or power to an output.by bryanandaimee - Controllers
Double check that the enable line is being held low until you want motors enabled. The main thing if I recall correctly is to have 5V up and stable before supplying Vmot, and then enable the drivers. If you let enable go high before 5V (and possibly Vmot) it can burn out the chip. The enable line is active high, which is opposite from Pololu drivers which have an active low enable line. Also makeby bryanandaimee - Controllers
I just tried it on Win7 64 bit. Windows didn't find a driver automatically for the MCP2200 but running the 64bit windows installer tool that comes with the driver on the Microchip MCP2200 product site fixed that. Afterwards it was just a matter of figuring out which Port the MCP2200 came up as and then it just worked. I was using Arduino 1.0.5 RC2 and was able to upload firmware. This was on Sangby bryanandaimee - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Sounds good. I'll give that a try. Thanks Bryanby bryanandaimee - Repetier
I see. Sounds good. Thanks Bryanby bryanandaimee - Repetier