Or you could just get another Prusa HBP and hopefully it is a better one than the one you have now. Maybe cut your time to 10 minutes. Swap out. Then you could use the old one to speed things up when you are really impatient. I still like the heat lamp and Fresnel lens though. I might have to try it some day. I have an 9x11 inch lens somewhere around here.by bryanandaimee - Reprappers
I certainly can have it both ways. Morality is not subjective nor is it a matter of popular opinion. It doesn't matter if everyone agrees with you, it could still be morally wrong. And it doesn't matter if everyone agrees with me, it could still be morally right. And morality is much more important than legality or business sense. Just because you use reasonable tone and calm demeanor doesn't mby bryanandaimee - General
You may be right about the business side. Especially since you seem bent on destroying their reputation in order to extort $40 some odd dollars from them to recoup your imagined loss as a result of your own inattention and carelessness. I understand I am using harsh and emotionally charged language. I do it intentionally because you have decided to couch your argument in moral terms. Your great gby bryanandaimee - General
OK I lied. I guess time just seems to pass quicker when I'm in the shop working on/with my 3d printers. Anyway, in real time it takes about 10 minutes to 100 C and 14 minutes to 110C. If I put a folded dishrag on top it cuts the time down to 6 and 8 respectively. I wonder if appdev007 could get similar results with a hair dryer or hot air gun without the hassle/danger of carting a hot slab of grby bryanandaimee - Reprappers
40 minutes, wow. I thought my gheto stripboard HBP was slow. I'm pretty sure it does better than 5 minutes. I'll have to time it. Fully customizable and only about $5 for materials.by bryanandaimee - Reprappers
It's actually a MCP2200 I just haven't bothered to make a custom schematic symbol and part yet. It should be routed correctly for the MCP2200 (I hope) Also I downloaded the symbol and footprint for the usb connector and it doesn't seem to link to the schematic correctly. It shows up on the board when I list it in the footprint attribute but the connections on the schematic don't seem to transferby bryanandaimee - Controllers
Sanguish 1.0 RC1 is here! Comments and suggestions are appreciated. Sanguish 1.0 Release Candidate 1by bryanandaimee - Controllers
They are limited to 2 amps per phase so that should be fine. The limit is per phase so you don't have to worry about both on at the same time. At 1.5 amps you will likely need a heat sink and fan on the drivers.by bryanandaimee - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
There is another variable there. It depends on the number of windings too. Many steppers have multiple versions of the same model with different current and the same torque. Now all other things being equal, a nema 14 will have less torque with the same current and number of windings just due to the size, since torque is force times distance.by bryanandaimee - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
No reason it couldn't. Is the pinout compatible?by bryanandaimee - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Because 4988 will not do anywhere near 2.5 amps (Motors rated max), or 2 amps for that matter without serious heatsink and fans. You could get the 4988 black edition boards from Pololu that do a little better and might get you all the way to 2 amps with heatsink and fans, or 1.2 without. They would be $10 each at pololu. The next step up would be the DRV8825 boards that will go up to 2.2 amps wiby bryanandaimee - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Cheap chinese stuff is often rated very generously. You want to take those numbers with a large grain of salt. That number might be a max instantaneous current or some other such dodge, or it might only do 20A if there is an external fan on it, etc. So like waitaki said, a 30A supply would likely get the job done. Or you might just have a bad one.by bryanandaimee - Reprappers
Maybe I can add a bit of clarification. The motors are standard 1.8 degree steppers and the screws are 1mm per turn or 1 thread per mm. So he must have decided to use X16 microstepping on the Sanguish board. I have been doing my best to help him via email as I am the designer of the board and sold it to him. We did quite a bit of other troubleshooting before I got stuck and had him post here. Thaby bryanandaimee - Repetier
Enable lines- agree, I mostly did that because routing was easier that way. I'll look at it. Current limit-agree, I'll put it on the list Enable line- not sure. isn't it safer to require +5V to turn the relay on? That way even with no firmware, or bad 7805 or some other fault, you don't get the relay on unless 5V is good and atmega is running. diodes - I've seen a few comments from other desigby bryanandaimee - Controllers
Well, I'm not quite sure either but it is what I intended. The power on pin on Sanguish only controls a FET that drives a relay that switches power to the stepper drivers. I left it as an output when off to ensure that the FET would switch off. I wasn't sure it would switch fully off if I left it as an input when off. There is no ATX power control pin on the Sanguish board. Also there is no 5Vby bryanandaimee - Controllers
Yes, .25 ohm = 2 A. I have 2A motors and it runs them just fine. I've run them at full 2A more than once. I currently run them at 1.5 amp to keep the motors cooler and I don't even have a fan on the drivers. They just get warm. At full 2A you might want a fan on the drivers, but no need for a heatsink. For 24V you need to switch out the relay or add a current limiting resistor for the relay coilby bryanandaimee - Controllers
Yes, current setting is a bit more cumbersome than on pololu's. The current is set by a combination of current sense resistors and torque jumpers. The resistors I have been using are 1 ohm and 0.5 ohm. The 0.5 ohm resistors give you 1 amp of current and the 1 ohm resistors give you 0.5 amps of current. Each coil has two spots for resistors in parallel so the current from each resistor just adds tby bryanandaimee - Controllers
Sounds like a reset issue. You may have a short somewhere on the board or power supply issues that are causing a brown out reset. Try running off USB power and see if that helps. But check the 5V circuit for shorts first. You should get in the 1000's of ohms or more when all is disconnected and you test resistance across 5V to ground.by bryanandaimee - Controllers
OK. Sounds good.by bryanandaimee - Repetier
Here's an interesting issue. When I change from OPS mode 0 to OPS mode 1 I get a firmware stall as soon as it trys to begin extruding, and it stops doing anything. No more temps are sent back to host, no more movement, no more OK. I can tell it's a stall in firmware because a hard reset of the board brings it back up without unplugging/reinserting the USB cable. There's no hurry since it works fby bryanandaimee - Repetier
You can get them for about $2.50 each if you buy 5 or 10 on ebay. I've ordered through Polida, and GC_Supermarket. Both seem to ship about the same speed. I've had no problems with either seller. On a similar note, Mouser has dropped the tb6560ahq(0) for the updated tb6560ahq(0,8). It is more expensive, but the price should come down as quantity ramps up. I would expect that by the time the suby bryanandaimee - Controllers
Maybe you could try the wanted section of the forum. This is a printing contest discussion.by bryanandaimee - Competitions
Here are some PDF's And please let me know of any pinout changes you might like. The extension header is something I need to look at for compatibility with add on boards.by bryanandaimee - Controllers
For the purpose of having the most efficient power system you are likely right about separate HBP and Hot end supply boards. For the purpose of having a low cost solution I think you save enough by integrating it on board to justify the all-in-one board. I have board layout and schematics as JPG files on the wiki on the Use Sanguish page, but I can send you PDF if that's more convenient.by bryanandaimee - Controllers
Thanks for all the feedback. This is exactly what I was hoping for from the beta testing. As shipped, the microstep settings are X = 1/16, Y = 1/16, Z = 1/2, and E = 1/8 Board cleanup, silkscreen, indicator LED's and reset cap are all on the to-do list for 1.0. Mounting holes were lost during the push to shrink to under 10x10 cm for the cheap board house pricing. With a bit more arranging it sby bryanandaimee - Controllers
It's not their design. I saw an article about it on 3Ders.org a while ago. I'm pretty sure it's a re-badged 3drag printer. Not sure if they are getting them from 3drag or putting kits together themselves but it is cool that Velleman is getting in on the action. I used to love putting electronics kits together.by bryanandaimee - General
Could just be drive speed. For Z, if you have the microstepping set to 16 you get very high steps per mm. If you have set the drivers to low (whole or half) microstepping you need the correct (low <500) steps per mm in firmware or the firmware will try to move the steppers way too fast and they just stall. Even with correct microstepping, the firmware might have unrealistic max speeds for Z,by bryanandaimee - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Easiest is if it already has firmware on it. Did the seller say what was programmed? If you know the firmware and baud rate then you can get pronterface or other control software and try it out. If not hopefully at least there is a bootloader. You just need to know which bootloader and what frequency the crystal is. Then in Arduino you set the board to your bootloader/chip (something like Sanguby bryanandaimee - Sanguino(lolu)
Yes, it is assembled, and teacup is a good firmware for these drivers, as well as Repetier.by bryanandaimee - Controllers