They are all boxed up now ready for the courier so it's a bit of a guess, but they are about 300mm long from memory. They would be perfect for a Mendel Prusa/Max or something similar height, the Acme nut is the same physical size as an 8mm nut so they are a direct swap. They have drive adaptors for the lead screw to a Nema 17 stepper motor shaft.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
One lot gone, the other's on the way :-)by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Having a final clear out. These two auctions are all my remaining parts and there is some gold in there if you are building a printer. TradeMe lot 1 TradeMe lot 2by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Description says it all really, I'm have a big clear out of a heap of printer parts. Lots of goodies like 2020 extrusion, linear rail sets, grunty power supplies etc. I have heaps more but it's not the sort of stuff I can sell to strangers like obscure extruders, a one-off 300mm bed heater etc plus some experimental printers. Click on this link Trademe for the full listing.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Yes and it looks great, 12" diameter and integral thermister just as ordered. I need to build the printer to take it first and that is taking a bit longerby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
The whole thing. When I saw the MBE one MBE Extruder I was initially impressed, it is a very nice object. I have since found a few others including this overpriced one on kickstarter: Kickstarter which looks like a good unit but is too expensive I feel. I've been using a variety of ones I've modified from the Wade including this version I made last year Thingiverse but they all have their limitatby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Just fishing for any advice or knowledge any of you may have regarding extruders. It is the weak point in many printers and the one thing that drives me nuts on any of mine. I recently helped a friend finish a Mendel Prusa he was building and had to make one of those MBE extruders work with it. The firmware is the first challenge but I finally got it figured out with a lot of searching of this siby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Keep us posted on possible date, Rangiora is a bit closer to Nelsonby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I managed to get it to work and have it running on one of my printers. See this thread for the discussion and procedure: Azteeg threadby Wired1 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I've just ordered one of these AliExpress. The plan is to stick it to a piece of glass, I asked them to make it 250W 12volt and include a 100k thermistor in the pad. I'll let you know how it turns out.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
So I added two 30 amp relays and the hotbed one works fine but the hot end one clicks on and off when it the relay is engaged. Not sure what is happening here especially when both mosfets have the same circuit and I tried swapping the relays out for others and the problem remains. I added a diode across the relay in case the back emf was fighting the change of state but that didn't make any diffeby Wired1 - Reprappers
Thanks Oatridge, my chinese extrusion arrived yesterday and sounds like the same stuff you are using. I used it to build a mendel max a year ago and the centre hole was the only problem I had with it. I am working on a cartesian-style machine which will be about 600 deep and 500 or so wide and the same high. I have somw 12mm ball screws coming for the z-axis and will use either belts or steel wirby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Back up a running in Richmond now. I am still unpacking printer parts but have a new printer in the design stage, should have a print volume of 300x300x300 Anyone local pm me for a catch up.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I am a big fan if the Printrboard, it is the simplest and fastest one board controller I have used and with the bootloader option is as easy to use as anything else out there - and it is cheaper too. However... and there is always a big BUT with anything cheaper it seems, they do have an issue with the output mosfets blowing. I guess they were never designed for the higher current capsule elementby Wired1 - Reprappers
Sorry - only just read this. I am in the Nelson area but I am also in the process of moving house so my entire elvish workshop is in storage along with the three printers I currently have on the go. So nothing to show you this trip, maybe next time you are in the area.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Great way to build a custom size hot bed. Thanks for posting thisby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
The latest version Printrboard I bought had a bootloader and did away with all that messy Flip loader business. Just upload it straight from Arduino. If you bought your Printrboard recently you might want to check what version it is and use the other instructions on reprapwiki if it's version D or better.by Wired1 - General
That's an unfortunate name for a website.by Wired1 - General
If there was a ramps type cape it might be a goer, but what is it doing that the arduino isn't already doing other than the ethernet?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Makerfarm are a good supplier too but remember that purchases over $400 attract GST at the point of entry. Might be worth buying it in two stages or just the frame and source the other parts locally.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Might be the drivers, try increasing your output voltage on the pololus - the motors will run hotter too but a small change might fix the problem. clockwise is more from memory.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Yes exactly thank you.by Wired1 - General
That must make it a difficult fit for the pulleys. Time for a new belt supplierby Wired1 - General
Mostly new reprap printer prototypes and parts, I normally have two working printers and one for sale. If I ever get to the point where I didn't have a working printer I think I would go completely nuts.by Wired1 - General
Yes I would have thought the same. If you measure the belt it will be obvious if it is T2.5 instead of T2. T2.5 isa common size in any case. Best bet would be to get it to travel 100mm and measure how far it goes then adjust the firmware.by Wired1 - General
For accuracy you should look at the photos of items people have made on Thingiverse, they are all pretty much the same no matter what they claim.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi Luke, There is a healthy growing reprap community in Canterbury so you should be able to get alongside some locals when they read this later today, but in the mean time I would keep looking for a kit. It is hard to do under a grand but if you are technically adept and get some advice on which parts to buy you can do it - but the kits are the safer if more expensive route. I am waiting for theby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Howdy Kev, There are some good kits around and for your first printer I would recommend one of them as they come with everything you need and usually have good instructions. I bought my first kit from Makerfarm and have since built half a dozen more of varying designs. The beauty of this plan is you get up and running fast then can build whatever you want including another printer. Price-wise theby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Slightly off-topic but you sound like you have an opinion: why do you use 1.75 filament? is it cheaper or better print quality?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Yeah me too, I was trying to upload my modified Marlin for Viki on the Azteeg when it first came out and couldn't figure it out either. In the end I gave up and emailed it to anyone who asked for it. Whatever you build make it easy to understand and upload to or people won't use itby Wired1 - General