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Re: A "just how cheap can you go" thread... - 11 years ago
I think it might be only for one, the Chinese are a bit cunning sometimes and I think they are counting the lead as one item and the board as the other - still it is very cheap and I have ordered one lot. So I'll let you know if they send me one or two Now all we need is a cheap RAMPS (typically $37) and some Pololus (best seems to be $10 each).by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: SCAD - 11 years ago
I like HeeksCad and find it almost instinctive to use but I realise it's days are probably numbered. I managed to get it to load and run on my new Win8 machine but it's not going to be long before it no longer works on newer computers so what do you think is the logical package to go to from Heeks?by Wired1 - General
Re: A "just how cheap can you go" thread... - 11 years ago
His are actually cheaper amazingly, I'll have to try one of them next. especially as he was one of the original developers of the J-head hotend.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: A "just how cheap can you go" thread... - 11 years ago
These look pretty good too, includes the heater element and the thermistor and is shipped free. Hotendby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: A "just how cheap can you go" thread... - 11 years ago
How much did the hotend cost you shipped to your door?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Dual cooling fans on x-axis - 11 years ago
I'm finding with a heated bed you only need to cool the hotend barrel, the printed work sits flat.by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
Re: A "just how cheap can you go" thread... - 11 years ago
This is good value considering it is freight free: 3D electronics packby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Early prints - need some tuning advice - 11 years ago
The gaps between the filament loops is too great so something is wrong with the filament size or the nozzle. The heat won't cause this and yours looks about right anyway - I normally run 200 for the first layer then 185 after that. You may be doing all this but just in case:- Avoid using the scaling fudge factor to try to correct this, you should be able to get it right if you put the right nuby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: A "just how cheap can you go" thread... - 11 years ago
That is a very good price for what is by far the best type of power supply. Free shipping too.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: makerfarm v2 linear or 8" i3? - 11 years ago
I bought my first printer from Makerfarm and I was impressed with the quality of all the parts and how well it went together. At that time the I3 hadn't come out but if it is as well made as their V2 Prusa kit then it is the better printer. One of the things I liked about the Makerfarm stuff was the quality of the build instructions plus the fact that it worked first time.by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
Re: Nozzle coming out of j-head - 11 years ago
I'd start again with a new j-head. I would check your thermistor too, from that close up photo it is obviously melting the insulation on the resistor so maybe it's just running way hotter than you think. If not it would have to be the worlds worst hotend to fail so quickly.by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
Re: Panucatt Devices - 11 years ago
Yes what Floyd said - great product but not always quick to deliver. I am using a second Azteeg X3, this time with a Viki and it is very easy to use and program. The multiple options for terminals is brilliant and all the terminals come out for multiple motors and hot ends.by Wired1 - General
Re: Power supply - 11 years ago
The ATX 12 volt outputs are generally yellow for +12 and black for ground or -ve. You will need to connect all the yellow wires together and all the black wires together or risk melting your supply wires as they are normally pretty small and melt through the insulation like a hot knife through butter. You will also need to tie the green (?) wire down to black to make it switch on. But they aren'by Wired1 - General
Re: X-axis skipping - 11 years ago
With an object that small it probably isn't the lack of fan on the extruder unless you are printing for hours on end and leave the hot end on all the time. Skipping steps is one of the more common problems posted here and probably due to insufficient current in the x-axis stepper motor. It seems to only ever happen in the X and y axes and for me more often the x-axis which might be something to dby Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
Re: An 'open question' for the local reprap community... - 11 years ago
Have a look at this subforum: Electronics or here Stepper motors might be more your kind of thing. Personally I have a small attention span and never read more then the first couple of linesby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Buying through Aliexpress? - 11 years ago
I have bought a heap of stuff from Aliexpress and have only had a couple of problems, both of which were sorted out quickly. Down in this part of the world we are a bit limited for options and when compared to the prices of motors, bearings, linear rod and other parts the savings are huge. I normally buy stuff that has free shipping and it is generally 2-3 weeks delivery time. You can pay for 2-3by Wired1 - General
Re: Not sticking to bed on 1st layer? - 11 years ago
I hope your post doesn't mean you are running with tape on the glass, if you have a hot bed you don't need tape. The usual arrangement seems to be the y-carriage with the pcb heater mounted above it on stand-offs or springs then a glass sheet above that. If your print is lifting off then the glass isn't hot enough which might be caused by a). glass too thick, b). thermistor not in contact with tby Wired1 - General
Re: Printrboard MinTemp Error - 11 years ago
Few thoughts, might be helpful. Thermistors will read min temp if the leads are shorted together. The leads are uninsulated and the hot end is brass so if the bulb is too far into the head the leads might be touching the brass. If the Molex were giving way or if any joins were suspect the fault would be max temp - same as if you unplug the thermistor from the board. This also rules out a dry joinby Wired1 - General
Re: Open-Design and the philosophy behind it... - 11 years ago
This is an interesting discussion thanks Bert. I get a kick out of seeing people building my designs and improving them and all I want to see is acknowledgement of where they got the original idea from. I try hard to acknowledge where I get ideas from even if they don't always appear an obvious evolutionary step so I want others to do it too. In truth none of us is really inventing anything new sby Wired1 - General
Re: Can anyone in ChCh help us out with a little fillament for the weekend ??? - 11 years ago
Yes the bed dimensions are set in Marlin or whatever firmware you are running so it won't go past the limit switch. Press reset on the electronic board and try again. X and Y limit switches are not critical so you can set them with the power off just by ear with the micro switch click. Set Z high to start with and lower it to get closer to the bed. You guys have a great little 3D community down tby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Brand new Mendel Max 1.5 for sale - 11 years ago
Oops I see it has sold sorry, give me a call anyway as I have two others and I'm designing another new printer at the moment (yes bigger, brighter and more bells and whistles etc).by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Brand new Mendel Max 1.5 for sale - 11 years ago
Yes of course, sorry but I only just saw your comment - I always forget to tick the follow topic box on this forum It is printing on the webcam most evenings (webcam link below) and I am home most evenings except Wednesday this week.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Brand new Mendel Max 1.5 for sale - 11 years ago
Finally got around to completing this printer and it is already printing very well. Sale price is a fair reflection of the cost to build and includes the notebook computer to run it all. Simon's Mendel Max computer for saleby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Printrboard firmware uploading 101 - 11 years ago
There doesn't seem to be anywhere else to post this but if you have been using Printrboards you may have been tearing your hair out when it comes to changing the firmware. I built my first printer, a Mendel Prusa, with a Printrboard and since then have built seven more printers, four with Printrboard and two with Azteeg X3's. The first Printrboard I had used a crappy system where you had to compiby Wired1 - General
Re: multiple fans - 11 years ago
I have paralleled up 4 fans on the printer I just finished and connected them to the fan output on the control board. Two fans are on the hot end and the other two are on the X and Y axis motors to keep them cool. This printer has a Printrboard but my other printers are using Azteeg X3 boards and all of them drive the multiple fans OK. The fan output is intended for use with the hot end fans so cby Wired1 - Controllers
Re: Anyone building a mendelMax? - 11 years ago
Finally finished my Mendel max this weekend. It has taken me well over a year to build and was interrupted several times with my two open beam printers and a number of other non-3D-printer projects. It is basically a Mendel Max 1.5 with my own x-axis carriage and extruder. It features 10mm z-axis rods and x-ends by Jonas Kuehling, and 8mm y and x axis rods. Electronics is Printrboard with Marlinby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Azteeg X3 Controller Pre-Order. Limited time pricing. - 11 years ago
I didn't realise you had an option, the second one I bought came with the updated cover. It also has outputs for two more hot ends, two more thermistors, two more motors (now total of 7) a nother header labelled fault-in and another expansion header labelled Exp4 so plenty of room for expansion. Some stand-alone temperature controllers use thermocouples but for what we are doing thermistors are aby Wired1 - For Sale
Re: Best printer to build for a 1st timer - 11 years ago
Mendel Prusa is still the best first time printer. There are plenty of kits on ebay and a kit is the better option for a first time build as they come with everything and the savings sourcing your own parts is minimal. Exception to that is I would get the rods and motors locally off Trademe. There are also plenty of stores selling kits and some of them are good and reliable. I have bought from thby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Azteeg X3 Controller Pre-Order. Limited time pricing. - 11 years ago
I have never used Repetier host sorry so can't say. Repetier firmware works nicer with the Viki panel than Marlin but I haven't managed to get it working with the SD card and as Marlin is now working I will stick with that until someone smarter than me sorts out Repetier. I wasn't thrilled with the way Repetier worked with Pronterface but I understand Repetier host works very well with Repetier fby Wired1 - For Sale
Re: Azteeg X3 Controller Pre-Order. Limited time pricing. - 11 years ago
OK i have it working now, in Marlin. Full control from the Viki including SD card, plus it all still works from Pronterface as a bonus. I tried uploading it to github but I can't figure out how you do that so if anyone wants it you'd better PM me with your email address and I'll email you a copy. It is 1.5Mb as a zipped up file. You need to use Arduino 0023 (http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software),by Wired1 - For Sale