It is going to be a pain reading it on this forum if everyone keeps adding their supplier to the bottom of the page - it will become unmanagable really fast. In New Zealand I recommend Diamond Age Solutions - best product & prices.by Wired1 - General
I have been printing 24 hours a day for a while now and for the last week have had extruder malfunction after malfunction. At first I thought it was the hobbed bolt getting old and losing it's edge so I changed that, also changed the entire extruder, new gears and still printing problems. Finally diagnosed it as a blocked nozzle. I print with PLA so to clear it I ramped up the temperature to 230by Wired1 - General
I guess you have checked your belt tightness? If you are running small steppers they might be missing steps or you could try increasing the current on that motor.by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
8mm rods are about at their maximum on the Prusa, if you were going to go half as wide and deep more I would go up to 10mm rods for all the axes. The prusa is fairly wobbly too so increasing the size will only exacerbate this. If you went up to 10 or 12mm threaded rod it might make up for that but you would probably want to add some lateral triangulation to steady the ship.by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
Awesome, hope to be there and might bring a printer or two with me. I have penciled that date in so give us a bit of warning if it is going to change as I need to make arrangements for travel and accommodation etc.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Good choice for a first printer.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
There is going to be some impedance from the pulsing nature of the stepping currents so that might explain why Ohm's law isn't working for the winding resistanceby Wired1 - For Sale
What extruder and filament are you using it with?by Wired1 - For Sale
and what printer are you thinking of building?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Neat printer. Is the cabinet to keep the dust out, or noise or is it to control the temperature inside?by Wired1 - Look what I made!
I have unleashed a monster - have a look at this OB14 - Large scaleby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Cool, makes you feel 10 feet tall when you find a real problem and fix it.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I would have thought they would use the same circuitry for both, they use the same output transistors in any case. Yes it sounds odd to me too. maybe check that they thermistor is tight in the head?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
The one you are looking at looks OK but I wouldn't go any smaller - 30 amps is better if you are running a heated bed.by Wired1 - General
Just bought one of these so I'll let you'll know how it goes when it arrives.by Wired1 - For Sale
Yes well ABS is another messy story - I have only had ABS prints work with diluted ABS as a base so I have to get stuck in with the acetone and slop it around to form the base for the next print. There aren't enough reasons to want to use ABS that often, I use PLA 95% of the time.by Wired1 - General
I don't use anything on my glass, just heat it up to 60 C and print then let it cool and the parts pop off. Clean the glass with the razor blade then print again. Never used any chemicals and never had any problems.by Wired1 - General
Build the one that is well proved, then use that to make the parts for your next one.by Wired1 - General
Printed this Y-carriage today - bit o bling... Mendel Max Y carriageby Wired1 - General
Yes. Must use these on the next printer, wonder if they are as good as they claim.by Wired1 - General
Thumbwheels are like these: The photo I used above is using the Panucatt Helios heated bed which is power hungry but nice and thick and dead flat. On top of it I use a sheet of 3mm thick glass and print straight on that. The Helios bed comes with 4 x countersunk M3 machine screws and the heater is 3mm thick so the countersink hides the head. This is great and meand you can put a larger sheet ofby Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
You must admit that had a lot of layers to start with Karmavore, the heater panel can be directly sprung from the single bed like this I am building a couple of printers at the moment so I'm thinking I will probably ditch the thumb wheel adjusters in favour of tiny M3 nyloc nuts but still retain a spring. Should be the best of both worlds.by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
Made a mock up Viki panel here for anyone planning for one of these:by Wired1 - For Sale
Just an update for those wondering what is happening... I'm still waiting for my Azteeg X3 controller to arrive along with the Viki LCD control panel. I made a dummy panel here: to help figure out where it is going to be mounted. Another builder here is building an oversize OB1.4 so that might be interesting to see how sturdy the Open Beam is at larger lengths, video here: In the mean time I wiby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Yes, sorry to sidetrack you. Good luck with the launch, I'll keep an eye on it for bargainsby Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
I use two VGA type fans - one front, one back and find they work well like here: I like the idea of using one or two 30mm fans between the rails built into the x-carriager, must try that.by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
Slightly off-topic... is it convention to use a comma instead of a decimal point in prices in the EU? it is a bit confusing ie looks like a much larger priceby Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
Looks pretty normal apart from the y-axis. The extra height of the roller on the motor and idler has forced them to put the y-axis rails above the end rods instead of under. This will reduce your overall build height but must have been necessary to clear the rollers. The y-axis limit switch (the one out the front) should trigger just before the y-carriage (or printer bed if you like) crashes intoby Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
You can use two smaller 38 oz-in NEMA17's for the Z-axis if your printer uses two motors so that might be what you have seen. The two-motor z-axis design splits the load between 2 motors and for many printer designs the z-axis only ever increments once per layer whereas the other motors (the extruder, y-axis and x-axis) are running constantly and reversing often so do a heap more work. Probably eby Wired1 - General
Steel wire has to be the way to go. It doesn't stretch (normally) and is flexible enough to do a couple of turns around the drive motor.by Wired1 - General