Show all posts by user

Prusa Mendel 3D Printer for sale - 12 years ago

I'm finally finishing my Mendel Max I started earlier this year and have the Open Beam Prism up and running so really don't need three or four printers in the shed. This is a slightly oversize Mendel Prusa and works very well. I used this to make all the parts for my Prism and Mendel Max printers and it included the spool stand and power supply as shown in the Trademe ad.

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: Merry Xmas to all - 12 years ago

My printers are happily humming away unaware of it being unlike any other day. It is really hot here - like 31 plus - so the PLA is printing amazingly good. It's been hot and dry for a while now and any moisture in the filament is long gone.

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: MendelMax / Rostock Experement Using OpenBeam - 12 years ago

Awesome, mine is printing beautifully too. The frame is so much more rigid than the Prusa which probably is a large contributor to the print quality. I am printing a second one at the moment on number 1 which will replace my Prusa in a week or two. Could you put up a photo of it in action please, I'm interested in your z-axis limit switch too if you could manage a close up.

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: a take on smoothie - 12 years ago

That's a great idea, makes me want to try a SMD board. Beats the hell out of the magnifying glass and the filed down soldering iron

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: MendelMax / Rostock Experement Using OpenBeam - 12 years ago

Wow, looks pretty awesome in black and the plastics look like great quality. I like the Y carriage you have chosen and those belts and pulleys look perfect - where did you find them? On my Thingiverse page I added microswitch holders recently which you might find useful. Look down the left side menu, click on digitizing and down the bottom you'll see grid size probably set to 1mm, followed by sn

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: Azteeg X3 Controller Pre-Order. Limited time pricing. - 12 years ago

That sounds a lot like the problem I was having early on with the power supply. When you turn the hot bed on it drags the voltage down so low that the controller stalls. You can test it with a volt meter on dc volts across the power supply input to the control board. It will be 12 volts or more without the bed then if its like mine, drop to 11.5 volts or less with the bed on and stop the board wo

by Wired1 - For Sale

Re: a take on smoothie - 12 years ago

I've just signed up for the LCD controller upgrade to the Azteeg X3 on kickstarter Kickstarter so I'm sticking with that for now.

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: a take on smoothie - 12 years ago

True, but then the Porsche does go faster and handles better and is probably better made. Are you suggesting there will be a noticeable increase in printing speed and quality by changing to one of these Arm-based boards? There is no doubt I would pay more to get increased perfromance but I was under the impression that the mechanics were the limitation on both of these fronts.

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: a take on smoothie - 12 years ago

Yes that's nice too if a little expensive at $270 plus shipping compared to $180 plus shipping for the AZteeg X3 (with 4 pololos) and $140 plus shipping for the latest Printrboard.

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: a take on smoothie - 12 years ago

Price is about right considering it doesn't need stepper modules on top of that. It's a bit of a pipe dream but wouldn't it be easier if they all ran the same firmware? Some kind of global standard. I'll be interested to hear how it works out, what are you bolting it too? - I've been thinking about the benefits of building a laser cutter.

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: a take on smoothie - 12 years ago

Looks like it has everything and more, plenty of spare outputs for fans and lights etc and on board SD support. If the firmware is reliable it could be a good option depending on price I guess. It's a bit like an overblown Printrboard ie integrated stepper drivers etc, and a bit like the Azteeg ie decent screw terminals and plenty of outputs. Only 1 extruder might be the only limitation but then

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: MendelMax / Rostock Experement Using OpenBeam - 12 years ago

Had a visit from Josh from Auckland yesterday. He is building my OB1 printer and wanted to see how mine looks in the flesh as it were. Josh brought along some of his black anodised open beam extrusions and they look seriously awesome. I've gotta build version 2 out of that stuff with yellow plastics - or maybe black extrusions with black plastics? Hopefully he will start posting something as he i

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: RepRap family tree - 12 years ago

Can't see how to add my open beam mendel OB1 Prism, derived from Buback's Prism with a bit of Mendel Max influence. Edit: Ok I see it now, thanks whoever did that

by Wired1 - General

Re: Advantage of Azteeg X3 over X1 - 12 years ago

I bought the X3 over the X1 because there was very little difference in cost and the X3 has a lot more features even if I don't use them all right now. Having bought one I would buy another X3 because of the screw terminals alone.

by Wired1 - General

Re: How do. - 12 years ago

It should be straight forward to upscale something like a Mendel Max - the extrusion would handle twice the size easily. To go bigger than that I think you would need to build a rigid steel frame like welding up some angle iron into a table height self contained unit. The marlin software would handle the larger size but you might want to look at larger steppers so that you could run them faster

by Wired1 - General

Re: PLA settings for diamondage ? - 12 years ago

Measure the filament, run a fan and watch out for printing on rainy days. I have tried a range of colours from Diamondage and they are all very good to print with and totally consistent diameter for the whole drum. However I have had the issues you talk of with both white and brown but not all the prints, just the odd one or two so probably something other than the filament like the humidity etc.

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: OB1 Prism - 12 years ago

I've only used Slic3r and I am using the version 0.9.3 without any problems. I'm not sure how an STL could work better with one slicer than another but I'll take you word for it. I take a lot of care to measure the filament but other than that I run with the default settings and it mostly comes out right

by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics

Re: Extruder gears - 12 years ago

I made a set of straight cut gears having tried all the herringbone and other creative options. They do eventually wear out but I just print a spare set first up then get into it. I found the fancier gears were just as noisy and lasted the same or less time. I have been thinking about making a belt drive extruder as I have some nice short GT2-3 belts from a photocopier recycling exercise I did re

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: PrintrBoard Rev E Question - 12 years ago

Must be on the pcb then - try wiggling the 4-pin header that doesn't work and see if it comes and goes. It could be a dry joint or poor solder joint on either the header or a component on that output.

by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics

Re: OB1 Prism - 12 years ago

Yes I made it from a piece of 6mm thick aluminium. I went along to an aluminium joiner and asked him to cut me a piece 230mm square and then drilled it out at home. You could make it from acrylic sheet or even MDF/plywood and it would work just as well but I agree it looks nicer in alloy.

by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics

Re: Mendel90 build - 12 years ago

Yes my last hotbed like that was warped too, these are very flat: What is the big silver block under the glass? Print some of these out when you get to printing, they hold an M3 nut on the underside and make levelling a bit quicker.

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: OB1 Prism - 12 years ago

Do they ship outside the US?

by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics

Re: Hobbing Flavours - 12 years ago

Thanks for that idea Waitaki, I did a quick search and found a dozen or so then selected this one which I am printing out now. I think I'll go with your idea of using a piece of smooth rod and threading each end for nylocks.

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: OB1 Prism - 12 years ago

I need to get started on the documentation (oops) it is lots of fun building it but not so much documenting it. I used acme lead screws and nuts from Nate at Techpaladin TechPaladin - Nate is super helful and his shipping cost are very reasonable.

by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics

Re: Hobbing Flavours - 12 years ago

A jig to hold the 8mm bolt with a hole in the correct position for the 3mm tap might work. How are these made commercially?

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: OB1 Prism - 12 years ago

I am very impressed with the Panucatt Helios hot bed, it is a lot thicker than the others and flatter. Plus the wiring is so easy with the thermistor tracks etched in already. I am a little suspicious of the accuracy of the bed as it seems to run a little too hot when compared with the non-contact thermometer but it would only be 5 degrees difference and I can adjust that out in the g-code. I am

by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics

Re: What are BOM changes for 500mm extrusion Prism 1.5? - 12 years ago

Yes they make LM10UU's but the 608 are not used on the 8mm rods so are not changed. I would guess 550mm for the y-axis and z-axis rods (and cut them down to suit) and probably about 800 for the x-axis. The y-axis rods logically should be 500mm plus a but more so 550mm should be a good guess. The safe way would be to measure the rods after you have built the frame You will need to find or design

by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics

Re: Hobbing Flavours - 12 years ago

How are you doing the "hobbing? I gotta try this

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: Glass - 12 years ago

Yes 3mm, works really well. I just use a safety razor blade to clean it, works great.

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: Mendel90 build - 12 years ago

I would guess it is 0.01mm per small division. If you have any feeler guages you could run it over the .5mm one and see how far it deflects or use a flat steel ruler on the flat - they are often about 1mm thick.

by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group