how much is shipping of the UP! printer? Must be kinda pricey to internationally ship a fully assembled 3dprinterby mlagana - General
looks like you're a lucky boy carlos; 21-01-2011: We have good news for everybody waiting on a full machine including plastics. Due to the delay, we decided to upgrade all full machines (being shipped from next week) to a free heated bed upgrade (extra powersupply + predrilled bed + heaterblocks+PTFE sheet+steel springs etc), free extruder springs, and also beside nichrome wire all machines willby mlagana - General
21-01-2011: We have good news for everybody waiting on a full machine including plastics. Due to the delay, we decided to upgrade all full machines (being shipped from next week) to a free heated bed upgrade (extra powersupply + predrilled bed + heaterblocks+PTFE sheet+steel springs etc), free extruder springs, and also beside nichrome wire all machines will now get the alu heater block kit. Youby mlagana - For Sale
why would silicone rubber fail when molding reprap parts, it hasn't for me. The more complex the part, the more complex the mold has to be, which can end up taking a lot of your time especially if you're learning as you go. but moldmaking is an art, you can take anything to a moldmaking studio and they will have experience and techniques to reproduce it.by mlagana - General
i'm using this one i ordered from RS-online Australia, pretty sure you could just put the RS stock no. into the RS website from your country if it has one. RS Stock No. 484-0183 Manufacturer Epcos Manufacturer's part number B57550G104Jby mlagana - General
a silicone mold of all the mendel + extruder parts would be prettty large and heavy much more expensive to ship than the parts themselvesby mlagana - General
actually you will need different skeinforge profiles for different nozzles anyway so i think compensating for first layer gap could just be done thereby mlagana - General
yes that does help a lot! thanks.by mlagana - Australia, Melbourne RUG
oh that's a better idea. i might try this cheap microswitch:by mlagana - General
only problem is that you can easily swap nozzles but then you have to re-calibrate your z-height each time... because 1st layer height changes with nozzle orifice size, two ways i can think of getting around that is: 1/ work out first layer height for your smallest nozzle, then work out how much higher your other nozzles will require and compensate through skeinforge somehow + that .2 or whatevby mlagana - General
maybe a screw on nozzle like makerbot would be more handy but with varying holes so you can swap between say 1.5 for large and fast print, .7 for inbetween, and .3 for detail. i think someone already posted something something similar but about making an automated version where the nozzle can automatically switch during a print for the infill but that would be a hell of a lot of workby mlagana - General
oh and also i want to try and design it so i can make it on a drill press (although initially i will use a lathe to check it can work)by mlagana - General
unless you're making a nice repstrap like the hydraraptor... my repstrap however was kinda thrown together just to get me to a mendel, not designed for long term use.by mlagana - General
before i try this i thought i would get peoples opinions of extruding 3mm to 1mm or even 1.5 for those repstrappers who aren't too concerned with resolution but just want to make a mendel. Then getting a .3 nozzle. 1.5 seems to be the smallest drill bit i have so i might try that. Could anyone point out what would be the correct length of the extrusion hole? It seems like it might make more seby mlagana - General
maybe your plastic is melting too far up the filament path, expanding into whatever gap it can and getting stuck, or maybe your hot end is not hot enough, not melting the plastic in time to extrude it. Maybe your heater block is too close to the tip and only the plastic already sitting in the hot metal has enough time to melt fully so after all that extrudes you get stalling. try to extrude thby mlagana - General
I have tested this puppy and it works fine: Still having trouble finding .2mm ptfe sleeving, or any sleeving that small for that matter. found some .2mm wire meant for outdoors and sun so need to strip and test the sleeving at 240C i kinda doubt it will work.by mlagana - Australia, Melbourne RUG
for example: The term Fused deposition modeling and its abbreviation to FDM are trademarked by Stratasys Inc. The exactly equivalent term, Fused Filament Fabrication or FFF, was coined by the members of the RepRap project to give a phrase that would be legally unconstrained in its use.by mlagana - General
surely they didn't invent extrusion though.. just first to put it with a CNC? I can imagine infringement would be stealing the exact design, reprap has gone on it's own journey for the extruder mechanism so i imagine it's pretty different? Also you would probably getting away with copying their exact mechanism but changing it all just enough so it's different, like jingles being based on real popby mlagana - General
here is an idea for the extruder smaller gear drive that i could make it in reality but not in digital reality for my wades extruder kits i sell the smaller gear now including dual tension screws, by embedding two nuts on either side. my last resin gear didn't fail me but it did creep to the point where i had to retighten so i thought why not double up.by mlagana - Reprappers
I eventually want to use my mac to print (pc atm) and i am going to try and get replicator G to work, the newest version has mendel settings although they haven't been extensively tested, would be awesome to be able to print of SD card, and have skeinforge in the same software. Linux i tried once... unless you know what you're doing and understand how to do things in the terminal window i wouldby mlagana - General
nozzle at 240C, bed temp i'm not sure because i have no temp reading but guessing between 50 and 70. This is also a guess but for first layer the nozzle is probably .4 to .5 above bed (for .7 filament) so for my first layer the filament gets slightly squashed onto the bed. extrude a bunch of filament, which is good to check for consistency, then when your nozzle has cooled clean the end and useby mlagana - Reprappers
i have been prinitng black ABS on blue painters tape + heated bed and it has stuck every time no rafts neededby mlagana - Reprappers
ohh awesome great to see it printing!by mlagana - Reprappers
it looks to me like you're layer height is too small and your layers are getting squashed a bit. but i am no expert! ps did you buy the extruder kit off me?by mlagana - Reprappers
you can get flat 3-4mm glass from old scannersby mlagana - General
what material are you extruding onto?by mlagana - Reprappers
that is excellent for your second print. congrats!!!!by mlagana - Reprappers
exciting update: 14-12-2010 NOTE: Forum online! --> mendel-parts.com/forum And please wait a bit longer with ordering again, mainly because we will add alot of new products in a few days. And we dont want everybody asking for the new things as order addons. (as previous experienced..) coming soon: heated bed (upgrade parts also seperate etc), alu heater blocks (nophead's version), 1.75mm PLAby mlagana - For Sale
i'm in sydney unfortunately- doesn't seem to be as much reprap action. i'll shoot you a form about getting some samples but take your time i already have other samples i'm yet to try.by mlagana - Australia, Melbourne RUG