So, any news on the Ignore Forum module or Recent Messages module that I linked for Phorum being implemented on the forum? I've provided known working code for both features for the Phorum software in use. Or should I chalk this up as case of putting off people with an excuse, and then going silent to ignore the issue when the goods are produced? PS: I get that people are busy. If people are bby Cefiar - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Follow the link I posted: (as in, those silly underlined things surrounded by []'s in my previous messages. They're links! )by Cefiar - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Yes better screw terminals can be soldered to RAMPS. The ones that ship with many boards are the cheaper end of the spectrum. Note: I've successfully used Phoenix removable screw connectors (the two-part ones) in place of the standard screw connectors, but to get it to fit on a standard RAMPS board I had to grind the edge of one of the connectors off to make it fit (runs up against the power conby Cefiar - Controllers
crdu: While I appreciate what you're saying about it not being designed to do these things, it's immaterial if people ARE using it to do these things. What I am trying to point out is that they SHOULDN'T be using it to do these things, and that given that a lot of designs now almost rely on these extra features, that either it should be replaced, or updated. IMO the polyfuse was a BAD choice forby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Polyfuses rely on the temperature of the internal material in them to determine how much current is being pulled. This means that if the ambient temperature changes (eg: the temp of the room, temp around the board, the amount of airflow, etc), the current at which it trips will change. Even with a fan cooling the polyfuse, you can't guarantee that the fuse will trip at a reliable fixed value, asby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
As someone who has endless issues with Polyfuses, I would recommend replacing them from the start like you're planning. Using a fuse-holder like that will work fine. The issues I constantly get with the Polyfuses are: 1. They don't really protect anything, since they take ~20 secs to trip. If your PSU doesn't shut down, other things are more likely to be damaged in that 20 secs. If you have aby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
If you live within the Melbourne metro area, it might be worth your while turning up at the CCHS 3D Printing night and having a chat to the people there. CCHS = Connected Community HackerSpace. Meetup page: Where it is: More about CCHS:by Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Also, there is a "Recent Messages" module, which might do what the OP is asking for:by Cefiar - Administration, Announcements, Policy
I find the main Index page useless as while it shows that forums are unread, it includes all the ones I don't want to read but may have visited in the past. Can we get the Ignore Foums module for Phorum installed, so that users can then stop getting the "new" notifications on the forums they don't want to look at?? BTW: This is about the 4th time I've asked for this, and a few others have saiby Cefiar - Administration, Announcements, Policy
You can use one of a number of types of mosfet in place of the standard ones on the RAMPS board. The standard ones are STP55NF06L. If you're going to buy these, make sure it's got the L on the end, otherwise it won't work. That said, I'd recommend either using the IRLB8743 or FDP8870. They're both fairly close in performance to each other, and they definitely out-perform the STP55NF06L's. The pby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
FWIW: Larger motors (usually) produce more torque. To do so, they use either more current and/or voltage to do so. As long as your electronics can drive them, then its all good. For the Z axis of a standard i3 Prusa, you don't really need high-torque motors, especially since there's two of them (unless you're running multiple extruders). However because they're paired, I recommend that you use tby Cefiar - Controllers
It's a regulator device like a transistor (3 leads on side, 4th lead is the tab). There's a bunch of variants, and one is 5.0 (5V) and the other is 3.3 (3.3V). On a Mega, it's usually between the barrel connector and the USB socket.by Cefiar - Controllers
Sounds like you fried the regulator on the Arduino Mega. Basically it sounds like you shorted the 5V line to the Ground, and the regulator on the Mega overloaded and died. With power off, take off the RAMPS board and look at the small chip between the USB socket and the barrel socket (exact location is dependant on whether it's a clone or an original - or even which revision board it is). I susby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Just of note: The reason these connectors are separate is two-fold: 1. It's easy to connect a different voltage up for your heatbed (eg: you want to run it at 15 volts). 2. The connectors on the boards are rated for a max of about 12A usually (you can get higher spec connectors, but they're not as easy to get hold of). As such, there was no easy way to run more than 12A into the board on oneby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Angelo: Even RAMPS-FD V2 had some issues that were still being sorted out. I know bobc was reluctant to put out another "final" version until it was actually tested, due to the Geeetech situation. The main differences between the last (non-final) release of RAMPS-FD and RADDS were: 1. RAMPS-FD provided a hardware E-Stop function. This used a tri-state buffer to disconnect the Due from the outpuby Cefiar - Controllers
As one of the people who helped bobc design RAMPS-FD, there are issues with V1 of the RAMPS-FD board. Even the boards with fuses are usually V1 boards, which was what they were supposed to be, but Geeetech decided that PTC's would be "good enough" even though we explicitly moved away from using PTC's due to issues with them. That is, as mentioned, if it locks up, your hot-end gets stuck on. We aby Cefiar - Controllers
As has been mentioned elsewhere, use a correctly rated DC SSR with DC 24V. The AC SSR's usually have basic zero-crossing circuitry in them, which means they only switch on/off when they go from positive to negative or vice versa (where they cross zero volts). If you use one on DC, it will never switch off and will probably fail to switch on except at startup, since the voltage never passes throuby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Too much current being pulled through the Mega's regulator is what causes them to blow. Could be a short between 5V and ground, or simply too much current. They aren't designed to run a lot of current, and with all the add-ons people chuck on a RAMPS board, it's put under severe strain unless you power the 5V rail directly and remove the lead in Diode under one of the stepper drivers (eg: 5V fromby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
They're the connectors that were originally specced for the board. They're the same sort of connectors you see on fans and the like (but with 4 pins).by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Yes, the resistor will get very hot. As it's not got anywhere to radiate that heat like a heat bed (eg: an Alu or glass plate), it will most likely get hotter than the bed.by Cefiar - Controllers
It's most likely too long. The SD card lines are by far the ones most likely to be affected by length. Your options: 1. Use a cable where each wire is individually shielded from the rest. Unless you can get the cable cheap, this won't be a very cheap option, and even then 4 foot might be way too long. You would also need to put the appropriate connectors on this cable which may prove difficultby Cefiar - Controllers
You can usually find replacement "sticks" for the big brands, and even some of the smaller brands online (eg: eBay). A number of brands also have good spare parts available (eg: heater cores with thermocouples in them so you can just replace the broken part) if you're up to repairing it yourself. If you do go shopping for a complete soldering station, make sure to go check out the spare parts avby Cefiar - Controllers
Re: "RepRap takes the form of a free desktop 3D printer" Perhaps this needs to be expanded just a bit to properly define what we mean by free. The link to the Wikipedia Free Software page is most likely either confusing or misleading, as it doesn't apply to hardware and while it covers the "free" part in detail, being a link, no one probably bothers to follow it, or the level of detail on the paby Cefiar - Administration, Announcements, Policy
What sort of PSU are you using on your setup? Is it an ATX PSU, and if so, how are you controlling it to switch it on/off?by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Err, just a note: The + pin on the endstops is 5V, and it's derived from the 5V supply on the Arduino Mega. This is why you can easily fry the Arduino Mega's 5V regulator if you manage to short the + and - pins on the endstop header.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
The issue with thin wire tends to be that as it passes current, it heats up and as it heats up, the resistance goes up slowly, not by much, but after a while it becomes a limiting effect. FWIW: I would personally dump the PTC fuses and use real fuses, which might gain you a small amount. If you want to get even more out of the board, I'd lay a bit of solder or even a piece of wire on top of anyby Cefiar - Controllers
Heat beds are always problematic. Thoughts from me: 1. What voltage do you get on the following places with the heatbed off (referenced to Gnd on the PSU input to the RAMPS 11A connector): a. 11A PSU input to RAMPS? b. D8 + pin (nearest the 11A connector)? 2. What voltages do you get on the following places with the heatbed on (referenced to Gnd on the PSU input to the RAMPS 11A connector)by Cefiar - Controllers
Traumflug: Only if it's shorted at the time you're looking at it (first time), and even then not as likely because the thermistor tables don't usually go that high. Once you fry the input on a Mega (which tends to be anything over 5.5V), it tends to internally get locked at a fixed value. I've seen fixed readings through firmware of between 50-150C if the thermistor lead that goes into the Megaby Cefiar - Controllers
I would be looking at the heated bed and it's thermistor. Specifically, check for any resistance at all between the heated bed power wiring and the heated bed thermistor wiring, even in the high mega-ohm ranges. If there's some leakage resistance between them, then voltage fed into the heated bed power circuit will leak into the heated bed thermistor circuit, throwing off the readings. If theby Cefiar - Controllers
Some of those pins are easily removed from the connectors, while others are not. It just depends on what connectors are on those extension cables you got.by Cefiar - Controllers