I haven't tried it yet, but members of the Melbourne RUG (Australia) are working on doing it, though with a different breakout board. Scorpia is the one currently working on it. AFAIK, it'll be much the same setup. Will prod him about this post.by Cefiar - General
rocket_scientist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I did not get a clear view of the virgin HDPE > pellets he was using, but I think that sending > milk bottle sides through the paper shredder > multiple times would get something close enough. > > I could not tell of the auger was made from a meat > grinder or wood boring bit set into a customby Cefiar - General
If you can do ABS and PLA, then I'm sure there'll be lots of interest, and not just from Melbourne. Usually (in the US, overseas), they sell ABS and PLA by weight in pounds (2 lb = 0.9kg). Usually for both ABS and PLA, this works out to approximately 50 metres. If you have a 50 metre reel of ABS about, can you weigh it and tell us approximately how much it weighs? I'm guessing it'll be around tby Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
I don't have a LaserCut, but from what I understand it's much the same plan as a Mendel. If that's the case, then I think those bearing assemblies need to be upside down. Basically, on a Mendel the frog goes under the plastic bearing assemblies, and with the 3-bearing assemblies, there is a single bearing sitting on top of the rail, and two sitting under it on each side. This should also giveby Cefiar - General
As Viktor says, the software based oscilloscopes are fairly good, and worth a look. The free ones only go to the range that the mic input supports (in the kHz range), while you can get hardware based ones as well. You can buy ones that come with a USB dongle that will do a fair bandwidth. Most only work under Windows, so if you want Linux/Mac support, triple check before you buy. I do rememberby Cefiar - Controllers
Unfortunately most places only carry it in 100m rolls, which makes it expensive. We really don't need a lot of it. Something like or should be fine, but at about $67 ex for 100m, it's not worth it for such a small job. Also make sure that you get tubing of the right inner diameter. No use if you find your wire is too thick. Not going to happen on the thermistors, but if you plan to use it forby Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Just slides over the wire like heatshrink tubing. Doesn't shrink though. PTFE will withstand fairly high temperatures, probably better than Kapton. Note: As Kapton tape heats up, the tape expands, lifting the tape off the object. Many of the glues used on Kapton tape also stop working while at high temp, losing their bond. Expansion happens with PFTE sleeving, but as it's a complete sleeve and nby Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
That's an EPCOS B57550 series thermistor, which should be ok size wise. Do not buy the B57540 series, as they are just too small to work with. The ones I have are B57560 series, which are slightly larger still, but works fine. FWIW: B57540 = 0.8mm (dia) x 1.4mm, 0.15mm wires, 250 Deg C rating B57550 = 1.3mm (dia) x 2.2mm, 0.2mm wires, 300 Deg C rating B57560 = 2.3mm (dia) x 4.1mm, 0.3mm wirby Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
MathewDale: Just a note that nophead is quite a respected member of the reprap community, and I (and others) would definitely trust him on his word. I would hazard a guess that he also knows some good places to buy the 'vitamins' locally that you will need for the project. It may also be worth while to put faces to names and meet up. I also wonder if there is a Hackerspace near you, as they'd proby Cefiar - General
Ok, the thermistors from Element14 that should be ok (supposedly) are: Main reason for choice (apart from larger body size compared to the old ones) is the climatic category: 55/300/56 This means it should be able to stand temperatures from -55 to +300 Deg C for up to 56 days. Should prove quite suitable for an extruder.by Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
I got some originally from Element14 (back when they were Farnell), but they were way too small (0.8mm diameter) to do anything decent with. I ended up getting two from Makergear, mainly cos the kit came with the PTFE sleeving and I was ordering other stuff from them. The thermistors are 2.1mm in diameter, which makes it a LOT easier to physically mount them. The leads are thicker which makes wby Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
If you've got excessive drool, are you sure you have the right temperature, and haven't got things over-temp slightly? If it's working like you describe, I'd suggest dropping the temp a degree or two downwards and printing again. If it's still doing the same thing then do it again till it improves. If it starts to jam and doesn't flow, then you are too low. Basically my guess is that the plastiby Cefiar - General
Capo: I'll keep a roll aside for you then. And just to note, I contacted mlagana via PM about the price. If and when I bring in the next lot I'll have a definite price I can quote people.by Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Problem with dissolving a support material in water is that some plastics absorb water. This could distort the shape of the object you're supporting.by Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
For which continent/country/state/city? There's a LOT of places out there and in some cases a local place can be significantly cheaper than somewhere online, usually due to shipping. Compiling a world wide list would be a logistical nightmare, on a wiki or not, unless it's broken up by location. We'd be talking hundreds of thousands of suppliers. BTW: I've spent a lot of time updating the Melbouby Cefiar - General
Given what you've described, I would suggest checking for a short between the thermistor and the heater element. While I can't think of a reason this should cause this issue, it would definitely explain your correlation. Note: Make sure to check both ends of the thermistor, due to its resistance.by Cefiar - Controllers
Dazed.dnc is correct on beds. An unheated aluminium bed will suck all the heat out of the plastic as you print on it. Acrylic will not suck as much heat (requires more heat to raise it's temp. I've made a removable Acrylic bed to sit on top of my Aluminium one, so I can print PLA initially. The end goal is to make an insulator bed to replace the aluminium as the base and then modify the aluminiby Cefiar - Reprappers
Re: Z binding Sounds like the Z smooth rod is either not far enough apart or too far apart at the bottom. Also make sure that your X axis carriage is level with respect to the base. I used a level to get mine very close to perfect well before I got to levelling it against the bed. Without it, it would appear to work fine (due to sideways give in the threaded rod) but bind as you got lower.by Cefiar - Reprappers
Something to consider as well is that RepRap is an evolving project. We now have electronics that can do 1/16th stepping, which is bringing slightly more accuracy. People are experimenting with smaller 1.75mm filament, which is reducing back-pressure in the extruder. The design is slowly getting more and more refined, and in some cases it's just a matter of tweaking some parts. In an open sourceby Cefiar - General
True, but they still blow. Most of them are not that well protected. I've had one blow from what appeared to be a loose cable fault.by Cefiar - Controllers
If you use a common ground on both supplies, you could simply use the higher voltage to drive JUST the heated bed. Just tie the grounds together then disconnect pin 3 for the heater from the board, and connect your supply to the heater in its place. Note: The FET switches the supply to ground, so this shouldn't cause any issues. BEWARE though that the grounds on both devices are independent, anby Cefiar - Controllers
I had this sort of issue and I too got my parts from nophead. Nothing wrong with his parts though. Firstly, make sure your Mendel is on a level surface. Then make sure your X-bars are level as well (ie: flat with respect to that surface). This way you ensure that the X-bars are running parallel to the base of the machine, and at a 90 Deg angle to the rods. Beware of any front/rear twist in theby Cefiar - General
Make sure to check when it arrives. Mine was fine. That said, also make sure to check the specs on their page suits what you're doing. For covering a heated bed, 260 Deg C "should" be fine, but I wouldn't use it for a heating element. DX also have 10mm wide stuff that goes to 300 Deg C that so far lives up to all the expectations I've put on it. That said, the thing that separates most cheap Kby Cefiar - General
What firmware are you using on your electronics, and what sort of electronics are you using?by Cefiar - RepSnapper
Auzze pointed me at those. BTW: I'll have the PLA with me tonight at CCHS.by Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
The PLA arrived today. YAY!by Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
slang800 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Can multiple extruders be daisy chained together > to do the same thing (so multiple parts, which are > exactly the same, can be printed at the same time) > – this is unrelated to my first question Can't comment on the rest, but this should be possible, and something I was thinking about. You need to drive eaby Cefiar - Controllers
eranglr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi. > > this is my current configuration - I have 2 > arduinos (one duemilanove and the other - mega). > > The duemilanove is connected to my motor shield > and receive step/dir and drive the motor shield. I'm assuming this motor is for the extruder. You may be able to use the standard extruder firmwby Cefiar - General