I've got 10 rolls (each is 0.9kg) of PLA on the way from Vik Olliver in NZ. I'm hoping to be able to pass these on to others somewhere around the figure you quoted. Note: If we don't find a local supplier that can beat this, I'm happy to bring this stuff in the same sort of qty's, which is about the cheapest packaging/shipping cost point (multiples of 10) for other people. Re: ABS.. I've got aby Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
glitchpop: CCHS is interested in volunteers to help build their Mendel. They also have part time access to a Makerbot to print parts. Worth checking out!by Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
I'm just about to start printing (at the calibration stage), so I can't help out with parts. That said, We have a Melbourne RUG that may have some useful links. It'll also tell you the status of the various machines people have. Feel free to add details of your machine, even though I know Ballarat isn't really close to Melbourne, it's still in Victoria! BTW: The HSBNE guys (in Brisbane) have thby Cefiar - Wanted
Hi Ryan, From what I can gather, one of the reasons originally was that with dual-shaft steppers, you had the option of putting an encoder on the other side. This was eventually deemed unnecessary however. Some people also thought about putting a small fan blade on it, but it would only operate when the motor spins, which is not very useful. Dual shaft is quite useful for experimenters though aby Cefiar - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Myndale: One of the guys that hangs around CCHS (his name is Rob) knows of places that sell timing belts. Last I heard he's going to grab some pricing on the standard Mendel belts for us. He's also building a Mendel. He has access to lathes and so on too, and is working on making a variant of Adrians latest nozzle design.by Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Heya Myndale. Also a Melbournian. Just finished assembling my Mendel (Monday night!) and just on to the calibration phase now. There's a few of us here in Melb building RepRap/RepStraps. Have a look at the Melbourne RUG page on the wiki. Additions welcome!by Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
I personally think that the Gen2/3 way was dumb, as getting a cable the wrong way switches power/ground and you would blow an opto. No ifs, no buts. Putting it the same way as the RAMPS boards do (which is, power/ground/signal) at least gives this design the same setup as the RAMPS boards, and ensures some sort of consistency between multiple types of electronics. ie: If you are going to changeby Cefiar - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Note that RAMPS has the optos as Power, Ground, Signal. It might be prudent to stick to the same pinout if you're not going to use the Gen2/3 layout. This way, cables made for one work on the other, and don't inadvertently swap power/ground, blowing an opto. Hopefully this should be a minor change. Note: The Gen2/3 layout was bad anyway, as it is easy to put a cable on backwards and blow an optby Cefiar - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
The values are simple defines in the firmware, which you compile with the Arduino software and then send to your board. They all refer to 'steps per mm', and should be in the configuration.h file in the default 5D firmware. Other firmware may have this set elsewhere. .by Cefiar - General Mendel Topics
By compatible, I assume you mean you want it to be able to drive the machine using the same programs and code. A good start is to stick to one of the many types of existing electronics. This limits you to 4 or 5 motors; one each for X, Y and Z and one or two for extruders. The main difference will be some of the values that need to be in the firmware configuration file. These figures (mainly thby Cefiar - General Mendel Topics
My Mendel uses 304 Stainless Steel for all the threaded rod and I don't see any real wobble so far in my testing. Another Mendel I saw that was built with standard bright Mild Steel has more wobble. If you decide to replace the threaded rod, it should only be the top sides of the triangle (the ones that run from the bottom of the Mendel to the top) that need replacing. The base of the Mendel shouby Cefiar - Reprappers
If the tape is lifting, you might try something nophead came up with. Admittedly he's having the issue with Kapton and a heated bed, but the same principle may help: Some corners like it hot Basically, by putting a small bead of plastic close to the edges of parts on the outside of the object, only a few layers high, it keeps pressure on the tape keeping it in place. Another thing to check isby Cefiar - Reprappers
After some prodding from Sebastien Bailard, a Melbourne RUG wiki page was created. I've chucked a lot of content on it, but there are a lot of people here that have stuff on the go, etc etc, that isn't there. There's also bound to be local suppliers that aren't currently listed on the page. If you've got some time, take a look over it and feel free to add stuff. Don't worry too much about formatby Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
If an axis is going away from an endstop when you're homing the axis, you need to either reverse the motor wires, or change the firmware to invert that axis. Check with some other material (eg: dark cardboard) that when you block the endstop that the light on it goes out.by Cefiar - Reprappers
I find I can hear high frequencies quite often (for reference I'm 40). I seem to have a few dead spots in my hearing (notably one around 18kHz), but then again, it seems I can still hear sounds around the 22kHz mark. For example, I can hear the Pololu's "holding" the axes motors when my RAMPS setup is on. No where near as loud as the sound I hear out of the old Makerbot electronics though. Everby Cefiar - Reprappers
From the main page, new messages show up (x new - in red). On each individual forum, they do not. Note: I saw a message at one point (when posting) about a mysql index error. You may want to check the tables for index corruption. BTW: If you go into each message, you eventually see the unread posts, so it definitely seems like it's just an index corruption of some sort.by Cefiar - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Have a look at Capolight's blog: He's done some filament making work with HDPE. Not directly recycling, but it's a good start. There's also a few other people who have done similar stuff. Check the Recycler team thread.by Cefiar - General
I used hobby brass tube (1/16") to join the nichrome on my previous design, and will be using it when I do my next one. Stick one end of the nichrome in a small section of the brass tube, and squeeze with thin needle nose pliers. Do not squeeze the ends flat. Tin the ends of the standard wire and trim to size. Put on fibreglass insulation and/or some high temp heatshrink, crimp in the wire, theby Cefiar - Reprappers
FWIW: Long M2 bolts also work well. I drilled out the insulator in mine using a 1.5mm drill and it made a snug fit, with the bolts actually cutting their thread into the PTFE insulator. Best bit about using M2 is that there is enough PTFE on either side to stop the bolt sliding out sideways in any way. It's also possible to drill a second set at right angles to the first if you botch the first atby Cefiar - Reprappers
One thing it would make a lot faster is homing an axis. Shouldn't make that much difference if it was only used in homing an axis (you don't care much about losing part of a step there), and would prove an ideal test case show the functionality off. Just make sure it ALWAYS uses this for homing the axis, otherwise it could result in discrepancies. BTW: If you want to be super accurate homing thby Cefiar - Controllers
Could you do induction as you are planning with a high resistance primary driven at high frequency? eg: Would you gain any effect making the primary out of nichrome, thereby having the option to heat the glass on the inside AND the outside? Just thinking it might be possible to drive this with DC to get the glass close to temp/warm, then drive it with high frequency AC to keep it there using inby Cefiar - General
The differences are basically: 1. A3979 will drive 2.5A, vs A4983 will drive 2A. 2. A3979 requires more passive components to provide a working setup (ie: on the carrier board) than the A4983. 3. A3979 has a lower RDS(on) value than the A4983 (slightly more efficient). 4. A3979 supports 1, 1/2, 1/4, and 1/16 stepping, whereas the A4983 supports 1,1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and 1/16 stepping. Basically thby Cefiar - Controllers
Couple of updates: 1. Seems Ultimachine will have some more A4983's shortly, due to a kit maker returning them as they weren't using them. 2. Johnnyr of Ultimachine is working on a design for a A3979 carrier that is a drop in replacement for the A4983 Pololu carrier. The pic attached is one he posted on IRC yesterday. This is by no means a fully tested board yet, but it's promising!by Cefiar - Controllers
The only thought would be not to change the stepping WHILE stepping. Best bet would be change it when nothing is going on.by Cefiar - Controllers
Can we get a consistent theme on the forum? It doesn't make it look that inviting either. So far, there are two themes in place on the forum: White theme Green (Emerald?) theme The White theme lacks a few things that the Green theme has (like clicking on the flag next to a thread with new posts takes you to the last unread post). BTW: I would also suggest changing the final theme to NOT limby Cefiar - Administration, Announcements, Policy
reifsnyderb Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Unfortunately, the PTFE part is different as it > has external threads and screws into the nozzle. > The pricing, for the parts, breaks down as > follows: > > PEEK insulator block: $18.00 > Heater block and resistor: $10.00 > Nozzle: $10.00 > PTFE Thermal Barrier: $7.00 Oh I knew that. Iby Cefiar - General
As some of you may know, it seems that the Pololu A4983 drivers (without the regulator) have experienced a bit of a world wide shortage, most likely due to their use in the new Arduino Mega/Pololu electronics for the RepRap. From everything I've seen, Pololu won't have new stocks till December. That said, there are a few places out there that seem to have stock. Just note that they might not beby Cefiar - Controllers
I too am interested in at least one of these, and possibly a few barrel tip/heater blocks separately. Given the design, it looks like it's possible to swap these parts over without really interfering with the rest of the setup, so it may be possible you could change orifice sizes without replacing the entire extruder (eg: removing the PTFE part). How much would it be for additional nozzles and hby Cefiar - General
PimpKittah Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Also noticed some odd behavior my soldering iron > is connected on the same power line in the kitchen > where my machine is if i turn it off during > operation the power fluxes and causes the software > to crash or the micro's software to crash. can > this be "fixed" easy with some components ? > im cby Cefiar - Controllers