The "Generation 4 Electronics Working Group" is less and less appropriate for the (small) amount of discussions doing on in there (we're now discussing Gen7). Perhaps it should be called "Next Generation Electronics Working Group" instead? That way, it'll always be about the next generation of electronics, rather than the current one. It also might eventually get the community out of the habitby Cefiar - Administration, Announcements, Policy
On the Pololu's, the stepping is controlled by 3 pins (MS1, MS2 and MS3) on the device, from 1 full step down to 1/16th of a step. See the table on the Pololu A4983 page at Pololu. Some of the electronics (the new version of the RAMPS board for instance) allow you to change this for each stepper controller using jumpers. I know some people who are running the Z and extruder at different ratesby Cefiar - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
The only thing I would recommend is fixing that bend in the middle, so that it's one box rather than two. The less base shapes you use, the less chance for issues caused by overlaps not being 100% correct. The last thing you want is for the part to assume there is a small gap somewhere in the centre of that, which if printed could lead to it being no where near as strong (by lack of infill acrosby Cefiar - General
Found out after going through the Phroum forum that if you see a flag next to a thread (rather than a cartoon speak box), clicking the flag takes you to the last post you've viewed in that thread. This does not appear if the forum is the old white theme. Only if it's the green Theme, such as is used here in the Forum Administration section. So it's there (in some cases), it's just non-obvious.by Cefiar - Administration, Announcements, Policy
ausxmods.com.au are good for high-torque steppers. I got my pololu's from robotgear, and they appear to have them in stock.by Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Things that would be nice improvements IMHO compared to the way the forum works now: 1. On the main forum page, you see '5 new' or whatever amount it is for that forum when there are new messages. It would be good if this info was available for sub-forums, such as some of the country sections (eg: Australia), by adding up all the sub-forums under that and displaying them. This way, it's easy toby Cefiar - Administration, Announcements, Policy
You might have sun java installed, but it may not be the default. Installing it won't do that, you need to run another command: sudo update-alternatives --config java You'll get a menu asking you to choose the right java executable for your needs.by Cefiar - Reprappers
Hi Scorpia, A good place to check out would be the Melbourne Hacker Space which is known as CCHS (Connected Communities Hacker Space). <-- It's a Google Group btw. I'm a member and am in the process of building my Mendel. I'm almost up to the stage getting the electronics to control the mechanical. I'm using a RAMPS board for my electronics. I'm considering doing a re-design of the RAMPS boby Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Another idea: Print moulds (front and back) in plastic and then get the user to fill them with clay. Each clay figurine would need attention (eg: cleaning up, details, etc). The user would need to fire them to get make them hard, but the plastic doesn't need to be involved in that process. Once fired, they can be painted however you like. BTW: The idea of having all the figurines in STL (or at lby Cefiar - General
New 8mm washers I procured with the slightly smaller diameter (same as nophead) seem to have done the trick. All going well. Now to just finish off the rest of my buildby Cefiar - General Mendel Topics
Dropped past the place I prefer going to for fasteners and told them about the issue (too large O.D.), and they found me some washers whose O.D. is 15.8mm, so that should solve all my issues. Thanks all. Might also be worth adding this as a note to the BOM re: O.D. of the 8mm washers.by Cefiar - General Mendel Topics
Definitely explains a lot. I'll see if other washers I can source are any different and use them just on this section. Many thanks people.by Cefiar - General Mendel Topics
I've filed the slots on the part the bolts go into slightly, but haven't assembled anything since doing so (yet). I found that where the parts were sitting on the heated bed when they were printed, the edges stick out a very small amount, where the rest of the plastic has shrunk slightly. It's not much, but it might just be enough. The gap between the washers maxxed out at about a 1mm when it waby Cefiar - General Mendel Topics
OK, some measurements of a random sample of washers (ie: one each plucked from a box of them): 8mm washers: Inside: 8.4mm Outside: 16.8mm 4mm washers: Inside: 4.4mm Outside: 8.8mm Just looking at that, I'm guessing they're all on the large size, at least on the outside diameter. I know that they need to be SLIGHTLY larger to avoid being too tight, but perhaps the allowances are a bit big iby Cefiar - General Mendel Topics
I'll do that when I get home. The only thing of note is that I have not seen any specs on just what the diameter of a washer is based on the hole size. I'm also guessing that the hole size on the 8mm washer is actually slightly bigger than 8mm, allowing it to wobble off-centre. I know there has to be a margin of error, but it's possible that in this case it's just too much. Thanks nophead.by Cefiar - General Mendel Topics
I've actually got a fine round diamond file that is almost exactly the right diameter. If the screws still don't fit, I'll resort to using a screw to do the remaining file work. Still happy to hear from anyone else with opinions on this or have experienced this problem first-hand. Also: Yes it's on the top AND bottom washers, though the bottom ones always seem to be the worst off.by Cefiar - General Mendel Topics
I'm finding I'm getting issues where the Z leadscrew washers are just too close together and they end up binding in certain parts of their rotation. It's definitely the washers brushing against each other that is causing the issue, and not something to do with the X carriage (I tried it without the X carriage). This happens on both Z leadscrews. Specifically, it's the gap between the 8mm washersby Cefiar - General Mendel Topics
FWIW: I just sent Triffid_Hunter some Epcos B57540G0104J thermistors to play with, so he can test the thermistor code. Note: They're actually from RS, and the specs are here: Epcos B57540G0104J @ RS - Seem identical to the ones listed on the thermistor wiki page, but a slightly different part number.by Cefiar - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Myndale Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Cefiar Wrote: > > I'm actually getting close to completing my > Mendel. > > Any photos on the internets yet? Not yet. Things have been a bit mad of late. Will have to get to it! > > I got my bearings from Small Parts and Bearings > in > > QLD (online), and fasteners from CostLessBolts >by Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Got access to a voltmeter? make sure that you get some sort of voltage across the nichrome/heater element. Might also want to check that the nichrome/heater element actually has a resistance, and isn't open circuit (infinite resistance, and has a broken wire).by Cefiar - Controllers
rocket_scientist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Once again, if a tape and insulation free > nichrome and thermocouple installation can be > done, then a glass cover for protection and > thermal insulation can be added on top. Have you considered something like Ceramic glue? I've been looking into this myself to cover nichrome on standard metal extby Cefiar - General
Myndale Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi all, Welcome! > Melbourne here. Completely new to RepRapping, just > ordered the Mendel RP parts the other day. My > background is professional game programmer (very > low-level assembly through to high-end GUI apps > and everything in between) but I've also done > quite a bit with digital electroniby Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Ultimachine have a circuit board for the Pololu design that is shown on the Arduino Pololu Mega Shield page off the wiki. They don't have the thing full assembled, but the board itself definitely beats building it on proto board or even a Mega Proto Shield. Note: The parts across all the shield designs for Pololu are 'pretty standard', so purchasing most of the parts themselves is pretty muchby Cefiar - Reprappers
Casainho: Mendel and Huxley achieve different goals. Mendel is designed to be expandable, possibly to have multiple print heads and/or other tooling options, whereas Huxley isn't. Huxley isn't a REPLACEMENT for Mendel, and Mendel will still be around for a while.by Cefiar - General
Quotecluso99 Still to buy 2 @ M6/M8 x 200mm Round Bar (for Y axis) 2 @ M6/M8 x ~190mm Round Bar (for X axis) 8 @ M6/M8 bushes (or 4 linear bearings??) Pulleys, belts, etc. I posted some links to places in the Australia - QLD forum that could prove useful for finding what you're after.by Cefiar - Reprappers
One of the other reasons for using dual-shaft motors is if you need to modify them (eg: splining, flats on shafts, etc). With a dual shaft, you can put one shaft in the a vice, and the other can be worked on without the shaft rotating. Always remember to cover up the shaft entry with tape/blu-tac so that filings and scarp do NOT end up in the motor bearings. That said, if you're using pulleys/gby Cefiar - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Dillinger: Stephen George (on this forum) sells pre-cut Mendel belts, and is in Brisbane. He might even see this post. Bearings can be had from Small Part and Bearings.by Cefiar - Australia, Brisbane RepRap User Group
As one of the many people who have bought stuff from nophead, I too got stuck in my build. Unfortunately, as much as I'd like life to just put stuff on hold so I could finish it, things such as moving house, being ill, and being sent interstate on work jobs can't always be put off, and they all take priority over my Mendel build. Fortunately for me, I'm back in the building phase. Now excuse meby Cefiar - Job Shop: I make stuff!
One of the few things I need now is a thermistor. Any recommendations for places in Australia to get a thermistor suitable for use on an extruder? I'm hoping for something that'll handle 250 Deg C or more, and is in a radial lead (ie: NOT an axial lead) package. Something like this: perhaps? FWIW: I'm thinking of getting a few (I plan on making a number of extruders).by Cefiar - Australia, Melbourne RUG
You may need a different 'die set' (the jaws), as I don't see one that matches the connector terminals you have on that eBay item. If you look at and look at page 8, you'll see the type of terminal crimper you need. Look at the pic under "crimp type'. That is how the connector should look when the wire is crimped.by Cefiar - Controllers