Congaree: They're PTC resettable fuses. They "should" automatically reset once the power is removed. That said, a lot of people have had issues with them. They work internally by heat, so make sure that you have some airflow (doesn't need to be a lot - spill-over from a fan pointing at the stepper driver heatsinks is enough), and that they're not touching each other (the heat in one can triggerby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
If the built in USB is using LUFA, IMO it's most likely emulated USB. This means it'll be using much of that extra speed to talk to the PC, rather than running the machine. If you only intend to use the machine stand-alone (dump a file over USB, then disconnect) that would make sense. Otherwise a lot of your extra horsepower is just not going to get used for what you want. Note: I've seen sloweby Cefiar - Controllers
You need to confirm that the heatbed is set up in firmware to run bang-bang. Some firmware still has the heatbed set up for PWM by default.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
kscharf: That doesn't mean you shouldn't put a fuse on the output of the AC transformer (as well as the input!). Fuses are necessary regardless if it's AC or DC. You get a short somewhere without a fuse, and you get issues. Also: You'd want to be very sure you're using bang-bang control of that SSR if you're switching the mains. You do NOT want to try switching 50 Hz AC on/off using an SSR in PWby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
This most likely means you've blown the on-board regulator on your Arduino Mega2560. A simple way to test is try running the Arduino (without the RAMPS board) using the DC barrel socket. I suspect that it will fail in the same way. As you found, if you remove the D2 Diode and then power the board via USB, it works for you. You won't be able to use the printer stand-alone unless you use a USB chby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Yeah it's an annoying thing. One of the things I wanted with the RAMPS-FD project was to get protection into the board, so that we didn't have the same issue over and over again. Fortunately, the guy who did most of the work on it (bobc) agreed that it was a great idea and now the latest version of the board has such protection. Hopefully when the board is stable, and people start using it insteaby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
You've damaged the thermistor input on the Arduino Mega with a voltage greater than 5V. If you want to use T0, you'll need to replace the Mega. If you're unlucky, it may have damaged other inputs as well. This is sort of a known problem with RAMPS and most other electronics, that the thermistor inputs are usually not protected against voltages >5V. Some of the newer boards out there have thisby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Looks good. From just looking at the PCB, some suggestions: 1. Move the stepper boards as close together as possible, and allow for Molex KK connectors for the motor connections (same 0.1" pitch). Even if you don't populate the board with them, it gives you the option. Looks like you're VERY close to fitting them now. 2. Make the stepper motor drive lines as thick as you can make them. 3. Perby Cefiar - Controllers
Sounds like you shorted the +5V pin to the ground, and killed the Arduino's regulator. There is a +, - and S pin on each endstop connector. If you use switches and connect them the wrong way around so that + and - are connected, you will fry your Arduino's regulator, so it won't work.by Cefiar - Controllers
An ATX supply works well. I'd suggest a little bit more than 16A (eg: 20A), as some PSU's tend to lie slightly about their capabilities. Specifically, they may be able to do their rated current for very short periods, but not for long extended ones, which may be the case with a print job.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
For basic testing without an extruder heater (D10) or a heated bed (D8), 2.1A will be fine. That said, the stepper drivers need power on the 5A input, else they won't work. The DC barrel jack will ONLY power the Arduino. It's a good test of the Arduino though, but it won't help with testing motors. If you're only driving 1 stepper at a time, you should be able to use the 2.1A supply to test. Foby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
If you're aiming to push the boundaries of speed or you're looking at a Delta (which tends to require a bit more CPU), then it might be best to stay away from the graphics model. IMO the graphics "should" take more code to draw (does depend on how the drawing is done, but it's also got more info on screen, which means more to update). Note that this is not meant to be a definitive statement, it'by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
Now that we have a "known working" image, it might be best to put that on a wiki page and link to it from this post. This way, it can be updated as necessary.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
I wouldn't worry about solder melting at anything under 165 deg C, and higher is the usual norm (especially if it's not leaded solder). Lead/tin solder in either 63/37 or 60/40 should start to melt at 183 dec C, though it might get soft just before that. That said, driving the FETs hot can lead to them being damaged. I would definitely fix the 5V side of things also. driving the FET at 4V (or leby Cefiar - Controllers
Depends entirely on the code as to how well they take advantage of it. If the code doesn't move the extruders at the same time as the axes (ie: if there is some other code in between), then it's not going to help at all. As to ARM, yes, they're faster, but even then there are limits, especially if you decide to increase microstepping (I saw someone mention wanting 1/64th recently).by Cefiar - Controllers
I would personally try and stick to all XYZ steps are on the one port if possible, as most firmware use bitwise operations for control. This would ensure that any X/Y/Z steps (or whatever it works out for a Delta) are happening at the same time. Extruders could follow the same thing (and even the same port if it comes to it). If you're using a mixing extruder, you want them to all step at the sby Cefiar - Controllers
I think the OP is after a CAD program that will spit out .AMF files directly. I personally don't know of one. The only thing stopping programs supporting the format is the author(s) of those programs, as the format is open.by Cefiar - Slic3r
Check the speed limits and acceleration limits in your firmware. The default speeds in many of the firmwares are maximums for specific machines (most of the firmware people either own specific machines or are employed by specific manufacturers), and not a nice safe value that "just works" on the majority of them (and what's a majority of a bunch of home-built setups anyway?). With less current,by Cefiar - Controllers
You could try them 1 at a time and see how it goes. I would also check the resistance of each stepper driver when removed from the circuit (red probe to VCC, black to Gnd). If you have a 5V supply and a current meter (eg: multimeter in current mode, etc), you could JUST hook up the VCC and Gnd each stepper driver board and test. Connect VCC to the black probe on your meter, and the Red probe toby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
You only need to worry about the step/dir/enable pins, and they're all outputs. RAMPS and the attached Arduino won't be expecting anything from the drivers in that respect. Just a note about firmware: If the drivers have opto-coupled inputs, they will require longer pulse lengths than the on-board drivers. You will need to configure this in your firmware (Marlin has it at least, I don't know aboby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
If you somehow shorted a 12V line to the 5V line, you may have fried the logic side of the stepper drivers. First thing to check: With no stepper drivers, what is the +5V line measuring (in Volts)? It should be pretty close to 5V. If so, then it's more likely the Arduino and LCD are OK, and just the stepper drivers are at fault.by Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
You can remove the drive transistor and some associated components to make the circuit to the way we have it now, and it "should" be fine. I posted a bit about this earlier in this thread (read it all, it explains a bit), but there is a lot going on (on the PCB and personally for me atm) so I will need some time to figure out everything that needs to be changed. bobc may have some details on whby Cefiar - Controllers
V1 has the outputs inverted. This is a known issue and as such part of the reason for the redesign. Basically Geeetech jumped the gun and started selling boards for a design that was not finished.by Cefiar - Controllers
Not really. The problem is that you can invert the connector (by putting in a plug that doesn't have the locking/indexing part back-to-front), and you connect VCC to the signal pin (aka the switch). At this point, when you press the switch together, you short VCC (which is on the Signal) to Ground. There is no simple answer at this point. I convinced (and helped) bobc to change the layout on RAby Cefiar - Controllers
It powers the LED, and for whatever reason is also hooked to the other side of the switch (NC). So the signal is +5V while the switch is not depressed, +5V while it switches (through pull-up resistor, as it's not connected to anything as it switches), and Gnd when the switch is depressed.by Cefiar - Controllers
Quotematthew798 If there is an error of .1mm PER layer, after 20 layers there is a whole 2mm error. This would be blatantly obvious as each layer would be progressively thicker, which is not the case. No, each layer will be 0.1mm higher than the last layer, no matter what the last layer was (it doesn't magically shrink back). Each layer will still look the same as another. Progressively means tby Cefiar - Slic3r
NoobMan: While I definitely agree with what you say, I still see cheap sellers on eBay that do point to source. Unfortunately it's NOT the source of the product you're trying to buy from them. And if people have no idea at electronics, then they're not going to know better anyway.by Cefiar - Controllers
I seem to remember reading that the original design (we're talking Makerbot Cupcake days and before) was based around 4 pins because 4 pin CDROM Audio cables were cheap and easy to come by (and no, I'm not kidding). They also had the advantage that they were shielded. Most of those CDROM cables had 2 shields wired to the centre pins, and 2 signals (one Red, One white). The Red one made the mostby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics
If you're using the fan to cool your electronics, you want it on all the time, so use the Aux pins (which is always on). If you're using the fan to cool your print, you want it on when G-code tells it, so use D9 (which is a switched output).by Cefiar - Controllers
Quotecat.farmer QuoteCefiar Yes a PSU switch will do this, but you need to make sure that the switch you use is capable. Most of the cheaper E-Stop switches are not really designed for either high current DC or mains AC. You really want to kill the DC side of the PSU (completely disconnect it), as the PSU will take a small time to shut down if you disconnect the AC side. If you're using RAMPS, yby Cefiar - RAMPS Electronics