Simon, that looks good! Would you care to share the STL file for your new nozzle mount?by dc42 - Ormerod
I've not had any problems that I can attribute to the bed heater sharing the same PSU as everything else, other than that I can hear the fan pitch drop very slightly (about a semitone) when the bed heater comes on. The PSU that came with my kit is an Alpine 550W. In principle, I agree that a separate PSU for the bed heater, or separate wires to the same PSU, would be a good thing. But I've not foby dc42 - Ormerod
1. I think you need to home all the axes before doing the bed plane compensation. This is my setbed.g file: ; RepRap Ormerod bed setting procedure G1 Z2 ; raise 2mm G28 X0 Y0 ; home the X and Y axes G1 X60 Y0 ; move to nearest corner foil G28 Z0 ; home the Z axis G32 ; execute bed plane measurement procedure G1 Y190 ; get the head out of the way so we can clean the bed I have the appropriate G3by dc42 - Ormerod
That's good to know! Which eBay supplier was it?by dc42 - Ormerod
They should be square-section black female connectors, like this: Are you sure it really is heatshrink on yours, and there are no connectors inside? EDIT: if there are no connectors, I don't see any reason not to solder them on, after all you can disconnect the other end.by dc42 - Ormerod
The LEDs next to A4982s are connected to the endstop switches. Only the y-axis of the Ormerod has an endstop switch, so only the Y-led comes on (it goes off when the endstop switch is activated). You can find the schematic of the Duet board here.by dc42 - Ormerod
I sympathise with you, it's been a frustrating experience at times. I gave up on Pronterface a while ago (couldn't get anything to print from SD) and have been using the web interface ever since. The web interface does have a "pause print" button, and this effectively cancels the print unless you resume it. But the web interface is fussy about how you connect to it, and some people can't get itby dc42 - Ormerod
Have a good break Ian, and don't worry - there are now enough folks on this forum with sufficient experience to tell the newcomers which bit to hit with a hammer.by dc42 - Ormerod
Quotekwikius Just did the Range photo mount hack... Brilliant! ... Thanks Glad it worked for you! Credit to rayedge for the original idea. Quotekwikius N.B I didnt use the small recessed pieces of mdf at all. I found it works fine with just the clips straight onto the heater pcb Watch that the clips don't slide off by themselves. Swiss Clips like these are designed to lock into a hole or sloby dc42 - Ormerod
In case you are interested, here is a summary of mods I made to my Duet board (probably voiding the warranty in the process): 1. Connected a 470uF 25V capacitor in parallel with C3 (I would have preferred 1000uF but it wouldn't fit). This is an attempt to improve the tolerance of the board to power brownouts, by keeping the 5V supply up a little longer if the 12V supply briefly disappears (and iby dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteDennisCowdery I also am dubious about putting the thermistor signal in the same wiring loom as the fat amps, I see why it is done but it does not help, it probably gives a route for good noise injection into low level logic. Dennis I don't have any worries about running them in the same loom. The circuit diagram shows a 10uF capacitor across each of the two analog inputs, which is more thanby dc42 - Ormerod
I would check on the underside of the board that all 4 of the header pins that the extruder motor connects to have been soldered. It might also be worth examining the rightmost of the four A4982 chips on the top side, to see if there are any solder bridges between pins.by dc42 - Ormerod
I got around to adding 100 ohm resistors in series with the bed mosfet and hot end heater mosfet gates. I also removed the flyback diode that I added earlier. Here are some before-and-after pics of the signals on the mosfet drains. First the hot end heater without the gate resistor: Note that the vertical scale is 10V/div in the first picture and 5V/div in the second. The turn-off has changedby dc42 - Ormerod
If the Duet crashes when the bed heater first turns on, then I would suspect the power supply connections between the power distribution board and the Duet. Check that the terminal block screws are done up tight. The power mosfet turns on quite slowly, so the transient you get at this point is modest. I suppose it is possible that RapRapPro may be using different makes of ATX power supply and somby dc42 - Ormerod
Quotetru168 I don't know if its already done by Duet firmware, but I will suggest Software developer can use PWM output to switch on and off the MOSFET for heater, to act as soft start by ramping its output . That might reduce surge current on power rail. The extruder heater is PWM, the bed heater is on/off. Currently, the mosfet turns the bed heater off very fast, which gives rise to large buby dc42 - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 As I am a bit from printing myself I do not know if this is a problem at all if heat sink compound is added between the alu block and the cooling block Documentation says: "...If you have it you can put a little heatsink compound..." I had some Arctic Silver, so I used that. Quotekwikius As an aside... Its probably best to turn the heater off and let the fan run for several minuby dc42 - Ormerod
kwikius, the clips are not very satisfactory for holding the bed down because they get in the way of the head, the fan duct, and the sensor. See this thread for a better alternative.by dc42 - Ormerod
Yes, lots of people have found the same thing. The latest firmware (Duet branch) has an increased start-up delay, which is supposed to fix at least some of the problems.by dc42 - Ormerod
My print head started sagging again, throwing out the z-probe calibration. This time, it wasn't the x-runner causing the problem. What had happened was that the 2 screws securing the nozzle to the nozzle mount were no longer as tight as they used to be. I suspect that the heat conducted from the hot end through the screws had softened the plastic. Also, the cap-head screws don't sit in the middleby dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 Hi All What about drilling and tapping the cog for a metal grub screw. This should provide a more positive fixing after all any backlash is undesirable. Rory Yes, that would be more satisfactory. I think the backlash was the reason for the incorrect layer heights. With z-stepper current increased and accelerations and max movement rates reduced, the problem has almost gone away (by dc42 - Ormerod
Hi T3p3, I don't think there is much wrong with the switching regulator, other than it could do with C3 being a lot larger to better tolerate brownouts (because the 12V supply is going to drop very quickly if the bed heater is on), and there should preferably be a 10nf capacitor in parallel with the 3k92 feedback resistor to improve transient response. The issues seem to be to be mostly around tby dc42 - Ormerod
Hi Ian, My observations on stepper rotations make more sense if it is 0.8mm pitch, since 3 layers come to 0.75mm. So it looks like my stepper is moving correctly, i.e. just under 1 rev per 3 layers. I've increased the current to 1000mA and decreased the z-acceleration and max speed as a precaution. But something is going wrong at least some of the time, because my current print is coming out unby dc42 - Ormerod
I've just started another thread on incorrect z-axis height. I think there should be 1 revolution of the z stepper per 2 x 0.24mm layers, but I'm getting more like 1 revolution every 3 layers. The web interface is reporting z=23.28mm, but holding a ruler up to it, it looks more like 14mm to me. The axis compensation piece seemed to print OK. I don't know what size it is meant to be, but I measurby dc42 - Ormerod
Despite reverting to the original gear which revolves smoothly (see thread about stuttering), I still have a problem with the Z axis not moving far enough between layers. I can see that the Z axis is moving between layers, but the work is coming out under-height. I believe the M5 rod has a thread pitch of 0.5mm, and it looks like the z driving and driven gears have equal numbers of teeth. I am uby dc42 - Ormerod
Hi Rosario, I just had my z-motor missing steps because the gears were too tight (this was because I had replaced one of them with my won printed part). I suggest you check that with the power off, you can rotate the threaded rod clockwise easily by hand. The Pronterface "printer is offline" message occurs when config.g has not been run, so the Ormerod is not in Marlin emulation mode. When youby dc42 - Ormerod
Ian, that setting may have had nothing to do with the problem after all. Although removing the line appeared to fix the issue, the same thing happened again a few hours later, this time 50mm up the print instead of at the start. The original z-driven gear was eccentric, so I had replaced it with my own printed part. It turned out that my replacement was a little stiff at one point in the rotatioby dc42 - Ormerod
I see that you have a few threads and blobs on the snowflake. I had these problems on one of my test pieces, see this thread. The test piece was "hollow dodecahedron" from thingyverse, scaled down to half size. In the end I got better results after making the following changes to the slic3r settings: Filament: decrease temperature on 2nd and subsequent layers to 200C. Extruder 1: increase retraby dc42 - Ormerod
I've just found something interesting. I was having very little problem connecting my laptop to the Ormerod via Ethernet, once I bridged the wired and wireless ports. But now I have moved the Ormerod to be next to my admin computer, so I connected it to my 8-port gigabit switch instead. From my admin computer, I find that I can get the control page and then the password page to come up, but in trby dc42 - Ormerod