Haha, that looks pretty badass. Hope it works for you!by Thav - Reprappers
This is a guess, because I don't have a printer yet, but maybe that blob issue means something's up with skeinforge? Maybe you need to go and check your output from that, or the gcode (again talking out of my ass). Some links (in case you haven't seen them) Config_Axes Config_Extruder I remember a wiki page that had some pictures of the different extruder settings as a kind of how to for calibrby Thav - Reprappers
I would be more than willing to try it! I would have to look into getting the hardware as well. What did you print these on? I'm in North Raleigh, just inside 540.by Thav - North Carolina RepRap User Group
Wouldn't pouring the hot wax end up undoing the freeze step? Maybe it will be more clear when you get some pictures.by Thav - General New Machines Topics
How would you use still film, is it strong enough to just tape the ends together? I just generally don't know how film splicing is done.by Thav - Reprappers
I was wrong again! I just didn't turn on the "autosolve contstraints" option in the digitizing menu in the options panel. This got a lot more useful for me very quickly.by Thav - 3D Design tools
Hey, just watched through all these. Would love to see you do anything with contstraints (hope I didn't just miss these). I know what they should do, so that's partly just to see if my install isn't quite right (installed on Arch Linux from the user repository) or if the program isn't quite right. EDIT: Actually I went back and read the comments on your post and someone posted a video with justby Thav - 3D Design tools
6ohms is the number for 12V. If you have a different voltage supply, you can work out the resistance you need by the following. V is your supply voltage, R is your nichrome resistance. R = (V^2)/(24), where 24W is 12^2/6 from the reference design. When you buy nichrome, it should have a resistance/foot, so you can work out how long a length and consequently how many turns you need.by Thav - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I'm not terribly well versed in stepper type motors, but I can try to fill in some information here. Most of the voltage/current/inductance/resistance will only matter to your stepper driver. Unless you are designing the driver yourself, this should be pretty much transparent to you. Just make sure the datasheet for the driver says it can drive a motor with the values you're picking. Basically,by Thav - General Mendel Topics
Just wanted to post to say I'm still thinking about this, but obviously there's a ton of reading to catch up on on the forums to get up to speed. Also been hanging around in IRC a bit.by Thav - North Carolina RepRap User Group
Even Isaac is looking pretty promising for getting prices down. Will need to review their design more though (as if I understand the other designs to begin with)by Thav - North Carolina RepRap User Group
I figuered the savings in the RP parts would make for a little more than $50 in savings. If the full Mendel is a 60 hour print, and mini is even a 30 hour print (wiki promises something like 20, but I imagine that's optimistic), I figured one could at least get half off the normal $300+ of the Mendel RP parts, and then it seemed like the rest of the parts would be the same or cheaper. Maybe my reby Thav - North Carolina RepRap User Group
So I've been thinking the easiest way for me to get a Mendel going and being able to start producing parts locally to RTP. Once I get that together, I figure I can start working on printing full sized Mendel parts (the ultimate goal) and sell the mini off. Niel, have you looked at the mini mendel design at all, or played around with shelled parts? Part of the goal is to not ask you to spend 60 hby Thav - North Carolina RepRap User Group