There is also this guide, which has links to some STL files *Beware* In above guide in the Measure section, at item 6 the formula shown is I believe incorrect, it's the wrong way round It should look like this: new_steps_per_mm = (expected move length/actual move length) * old_steps_per_mm do the bit in the brackets first, then times the result by the old_steps valueby orictosh - Reprappers
Quotederek5a Quoteorictosh In the slic3r's printer settings > general > you should have number of extruder set to 2 I use the duet web interface, which is also set for 2 extruders. Upon each one there is a standby and an active temp setting. I would set both these to same temp I.e. 190 PLA as this would stop the cool down between each layer The code below is taken from my config file whiby orictosh - Ormerod
In the slic3r's printer settings > general > you should have number of extruder set to 2 I use the duet web interface, which is also set for 2 extruders. Upon each one there is a standby and an active temp setting. I would set both these to same temp I.e. 190 PLA as this would stop the cool down between each layer The code below is taken from my config file which sets the printer up withby orictosh - Ormerod
Upon my Ormerod 2 I switched from the 40mm axial fan to 75mm x 35mm radial fan, which gave good results in cooling the print. Also found this post about short layers (time needed to complete the first layer is too quick to provide a good base for the next, ends up looking like "Ice Cream" ) in which various fan duct and shrouds were tested. Also give links upon page to the STL files, which is gooby orictosh - General
Hi, You might need to get one of these LCM 1602, some more details here I'm using one to drive a 20 x 4 char over I2C, it's not on printer but IoT project but I think it's what you need to drive LCD display with Ramps board.by orictosh - General
Quoteamigob > The heat bed output pin from the ramps board will be 5v with a small current and the heated bed will be attached to the load side of the relay, You do it again :-) Where do you think that you will find the 5v on the ramps board ? It is 12V, how do you think that people attach the headbed directly to the ramps ? 0.25 A for the relay is peanuts for the heatbed connection also fby orictosh - Safety & Best Practices
Quoteamigob this relay will work perfectly. Don't use a 5 volt one because you are going to connect the relay to the 12v heatbed output. of your ramps using a fuse is a very good suggestion between the power supply and the relay, use high quality fuss box els it will also get very warm. how many watts is your bed? here is the datasheet page 3 shows how to connect you have the '2 from A' versioby orictosh - Safety & Best Practices
Hi, I would say that the relay you are using is not suitable for this application. The correct one as shown in the wiring diagram should be a 12V 30A SPDT (single pole double throw) type Automotive relay Ensure it's suitable to switched with a 5v Arduino signal something like this would be suitable It would also be a good idea to place a fuse in line with the positive power feed from the PSby orictosh - Safety & Best Practices
The amount of IR Light hitting/reflecting into the sensor is too low when you have a low reading of P136. I have the suggested white labels in each corner and upon the end stop so that the sensor gets enough reflected light. Also check that the quick-set nozzles are correctly set height wise; As it could be that the nozzles have dropped, so hit the bed first and the sensor is higher than it waby orictosh - Ormerod
Also you might need to use the x-carriage design which runs the bearing along the back edge of the x-rib rather than the one which runs it under the edgeby orictosh - Ormerod
It depends upon what license is attached to those parts or designs I'm aware that @RichRap3D has done an article on licences and open source in Disruptive Magazine Article starts at page 11by orictosh - General
QuoteIMBoring25 That's one theory, but the explanation he gave for using the designers' photos was that he hasn't made all the items yet and that he would replace the photos after the first order. I don't think it's a scam as such. I just think it's an unethical business plan if it relies on violating license terms. Some of the items listed upon the ebayer store had Non-commercial licences attby orictosh - General
Check for shorts (power going to ground) Remove heat bed and using the multimeter continuity setting, place the probes on the bed terminals you should get a beep. Visually check the surface of PCB Are there any dips or pips in it's surface? Mount the print bed upon the printer, hold one probe of the multimeter to a terminal and touch with the other around the print bed and any metal surface. Ifby orictosh - Reprappers
QuoteMasterjuggler That's continuous service temperature, and doesn't even show how it was tested or calculated, so I ignored it entirely. Like I said, I printed at 250C for several hours, and though that may not have been long enough to be conclusive, it certainly worked without any problems or damage to the tube. Look at this way a 15amp fuse won't blow with a continuous 16 amps running thorouby orictosh - General
By the power of google, I found the following about MFA tube There is also PDF from the same company showing the max temperatures for other types of tubes used. (Peek and PTFE) MFA was 240, PTFE is 260 and peek is 250 all in degrees C. Seems fairly normal as the default thermistors peek out at 300 degrees c. If you wish to try the higher temp filaments I would upgrade to an all metal hot-endby orictosh - General
Depends upon what more do you wish it do with it. Looking at the Tech specs it looks like a fairly good I3 kit. How thick was the aluminium plate? As I have a 2-3mm one upon my printer, with glass plate upon the top; this helps with heat distribution over the print bed. Have you tried printing with ABS and getting the bed temperature above 110 degrees C?by orictosh - Reprappers
Hi, I'm reseller for Form Futura filament which I have found to be good filament. I'm UK based, not sure of your location, let us know with a PM or the website's contact us page so I can quote the correct shipping cost for you. Regards Chrisby orictosh - General
Have you calibrated the extruder and set the nozzle size of 0.4mm in the slicer software ? What was your set hot-end temperature set at? Here are some links to information when setting up the printer and having problems with print quality. #by orictosh - Reprappers
The PSU supplied with the RRP Pro Kit was an Model SP-200 If looking on eBay the best sellers are the ones that sell CCTV systems. They will look the same as the one you have but have a larger output amps rating. You might also have a loose earth mains connection, so check they are connected. Also check the ground connections are tightby orictosh - General
A better view of that label would be helpful, being bogged down is sign that it's not able to supply the current needed. I been able to make out the following model TOP- 12160E Output 12v at (I think 15A) If that's correct it's under powered and from reading it's label it's more suitable for powering LED strips, there are many other posts upon the forum that give links to better one. As it needsby orictosh - General
Ensure that your printer's bed is level by using a digital vernier and a object of known height in all four corners. Good Z height should be obtained by having a slight grab upon a piece of paper.by orictosh - Ormerod
Hi, Wouldn't think you could read settings from the EEPROM without at least a serial connection to it. It might be quicker to start from scratch. There are calculators for working out the numbers you need; You will need to know what hardware settings you used I.E. thread pitch, belt type and pitch and technical details for your stepper motor There is also this guide I found usefulby orictosh - General
Here is one for a windows platform called HxD Also you will need to know and understand hexadecimal. 16 digits 0-9 A-F which which correspond to decimal values 10 to 15 and the binary system, most of this was/should be covered in Computer Science.by orictosh - General
Also check the firmware as I believe there is a max temp settings. Set it something higher than 230 say about 250-255 As it provides safety if the hot-temp goes into a fault condition and keeps heatingby orictosh - General
Quotepalace110 I'm using the one it came with here is photo. It should be 12V I've tried to heat it as a test and neither the extruder or the bed goes above 38° The attached file has no file extension (forexample.jpg) so make it hard for other computers to open it; I told my win10 computer to use Windows Photo Viewer. It looks like the normal type of PSU you get upon a reprap. With a voltmeterby orictosh - Reprappers
Quotebrlowe Where can I get replacement quickset nozzles for an ormerod 2? Seems I may want some spares. I'm working on getting some made, e-maker has 0.3 ones. Might need to do some crowd funding so able to get reasonable amount for a fair price.by orictosh - Ormerod
I'm glad you were able to find the cause of your problem. Enjoy using your 3D Printerby orictosh - General
Quotevapark212 I also did wire the end stops, but the result is same The end stops should be wired and used. Are they optical end-stops or mechanical switches? This seems strange ok T:0.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 T0:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0 As I believe it's should show the temp readings of the bed and hot end, which at first power on would be ~room temperature Are the connections correct upon your controlleby orictosh - Reprappers
It's sounds a firmware problem. As it's programmed as a feature not to turn the motor if it's given a high signal from an end-stop. See if you can find that echo string in the configuration.h file as that might tell you the problem, could also be that a comment tag // has been removed or a { } curvy brackets have been removed or lost it's other pair. This will cause problems as the it won't seeby orictosh - Reprappers
Start Repetier Host with no objects placed. In Repetier Host, click on printer settings (3 gears Icon). In the box which appears, click the printer shape tab, Your settings in there should match the above picture. Print area width and depth should be 220 (forgot to change it before hitting print screen) Click apply, the OK After you load your design into RH, click the Center Object icon as shby orictosh - General