There is quite a lot of requirements Picked up some points as I went though it. Ditch the 150W ATX supply it won't supply the current needed to run everything. Get one PSU with a rating of about <=20Amps. The ones that are used to power CCTV camera systems (each cam takes an Amp, they tend to power about 15-20 cams of one PSU) For example It's rated power is 202W Using Ramps and Ardunioby orictosh - Reprappers
QuoteWesley_125 here are some pictures.. Looking at the photos, I sort of now understanding what you mean by the "middle"; As it has always been about the middle. When you slice the print, where about is the model placed in the slicer's view of your printer's bed? As that will effect where the printer starts the print.by orictosh - General
QuoteWesley_125 god dam I mean Y axis Y what is wrong whit me i ment Y! its driving me crazy No problem, Just repeat what you did to sort out the X axis, which from my understanding and the work you done is that it goes to the middle and moves a 100mm when asked. We/you need to set the step_per_mm for the Y axis, move it 100, measure it's distance travelled and do the maths to get the correct nby orictosh - General
I agree with VDX, it's not possible. But you can get information from it, which might make the commissioning easier upon the re-build There some g codes, which you can send to the printer From about M500 to M503 which will write/read data to/from the EEPROM. Also M92 will display the current step_per_mm values for each axis.by orictosh - General
QuoteWesley_125 hi i did all you set know if i move the axis to 100 it goes to the middle of the bed but when in repetier host using cura to slice i won't work it still prints it way to high in Z axis but i set it in the middle.. Okay, sound like some progress has been made. With it printing too high on the z axis; Its sounds like the z-height setting is too high. It's correct height should beby orictosh - General
Hi, Yes the expansion board is needed. Here is the link to reprap pro documentation to add multi materials to your printer Chrisby orictosh - Ormerod
QuoteWesley_125 Its very strange the middle of the bed is 110x110 but of i do G1 X100 Y100 than its the middle 110 is to far so the current steps is the problem ? What are the points are you measuring from and to? You should be measuring from the nozzles start point to the nozzles stop point. It can be quite hard to measure accurately, that's the reason for printing calibration designs. Print thby orictosh - General
Maybe a P3Steel Yes it's based upon the i3 but it's using steel for the frame not MDF or laser cut acrylic so it's less likely to flex or go out of being square. As trying to print with a twisted frame is near on impossibleby orictosh - General
QuoteWesley_125 if i do G1 Y100 F2000 it's 105mm and 115mm centre and not 110 110 Would I be right in thinking you have asked it to move 100mm on the Y and then measured it's distance as 105? If so your steps value is incorrect. looking at the formula above: new_steps_value = old_steps_value *(requested_distance/actual distance) old_steps_value is 100 Requested distance is 100 Actual distance isby orictosh - General
Have you set the 1K resistor value in the config.g file with M305? Do the temperature readings show room temperature? Degrees C or F whatever you comfortable with but 60F is 15C. Not a good bed temp for PLA when in the UKby orictosh - Ormerod
QuoteWesley_125 But if my Y motor makes the right distance it should be okay? if i move Y 10mm i actually goes 10mm before i changed the steps it moved 6mm instead of 10mm so prints where not the right dimensions.. X and Y steps are 100 per unit. So it may be in printer settings? Yes, if you moved the Y axis 100mm and it measures 100mm from where it started then it's steps value is correct. Sameby orictosh - General
QuoteWesley_125 Yes it should be X110 Y110 the X center is right, the printer worked before that, and i adjusted the Y steps because it was not making the right steps 10mm manual control was 6mm after changing the steps i printed A test print of 15x15x3 and it prints perfectly 15x15x3 i will try theG1 Y100 F2000 command and i'm using repetier software with cura engine where can i find it in curaby orictosh - General
Hi, OK So you have upgraded the electronics to ramps 1.4 with Arduino mega. Was the printer working OK before the upgrade? Your printer's build area is 220 x 220 so the centre of the bed should be X110 Y110 But in your case the print head starts at 30mm on the Y axis. From where? Where is the home position X=0, Y=0 ? Is the nozzle near the corner or edge of the printer's bed? Have you calibratedby orictosh - General
Quoteunstable Thanks Treito, that seems to be the problem. Latest output : Bed equation fits points [50.0, 25.0, 0.217] [50.0, 190.0, 0.173] [205.0, 190.0, -0.467] [205.0, 25.0, 0.115] [125.0, 105.0, 0.140] I would get all these values to be 0.1 or zero by manually levelling the print bed with an object of known height but then as you are replacing the x-arm you are going to need to perform theby orictosh - Ormerod
Looking at the photos you posted. With the heated bed plate, the thermistor is normally taped on the underside rather than on upper side, which shows the safety information. It also needs to have good contact with the plate. You can also check the heated plate with an Ohm meter which according to this wiki link that shows that it's residence should be ~2ohms and it's current requirement is 6Ampsby orictosh - Reprappers
Hi, Not sure what you mean by "after an ABC" If you home the z-axis after the X and Y. Is the z-height correct? I.e is has a slight pull upon a trapped sheet of paper. After you run the auto compensation the console should display a string of values at each point, please can you copy that into this post. As we can see if your print bed is flat and level, if not this could be the reason for theby orictosh - Ormerod
I also have this problem; thanks for posting The printer I'm using is an Ormerod 2 My threaded rod used for the z-axis has worn-out as it's become bent and causes steps the print at the same point of the bend, so it's going to be replaced with a new threaded rod for the time being but at later date with a proper lead screw. From looking at this post, I have come to the conclusion that my steps_pby orictosh - General
Ok, no problem. Could be a problem with the not used end-stops, In the firmware you should see options to disable the x-max and y-max end-stops. If you are only using min end-stops then ensure that you home in that direction. On the board just check that end stops you are using are plugged into the x-min pins. As what you describe sounds is classic "not told to stop" aka end-stop failing and tby orictosh - General
Send M119 to get the end stop status, the x one should be high when triggered. If not check the wiring by touching the two wire connectors together; Send M119 if status is the high then the switch is broken. You will need to hold the switch closed before sending M119by orictosh - General
There seems to to be a few choices as shown in the electronics folder Duet, Controllers, Ramps, Sanguino(lolu) The post date seem quite up to date and active, so have look in there so able to decide the best board to use. I have used printers with Duet and Sanguino controllers but at most the programming was being able to understand and update the configuration.h file then upload to the board uby orictosh - General
QuoteMumblemore I've just hooked up the HBP thermistor to the hotend connections (T1) and it is reading temperature, so i assume i've damaged the thermistor somehow, not sure what i could've done to damage it, but nothing can help that now, Also, i've managed to get the motors to move about, using both the LCD and pronterface, however, they move in the reverse of how they should, is it safe to rby orictosh - General
Just taken a look on e-maker and my site E-maker has the 5mm diameter ones More like the one in the kit Where as I have the 6mm ones with the long cableby orictosh - Ormerod
Quotecdunbars As I read it, the schematic shows PWM3 to be Pin 1, PWM1 to be Pin 6 and PWM2 to be Pin 7. "pins.h" for motherboard "7" (as per the Geeetech wiki) assigns HEATER_BED_PIN 4. Bearing in mind HEATER_0_PIN 2 (not PWM1 "6" as the schematic, and which works when manually activated via Repetier-Host V1.0 RC2) HEATER_1_PIN 3 (nor PWM2 "7" as the schematic - only oneby orictosh - Reprappers
Quotedc42 The Ormerod hot end is designed to pivot about the X axis. It relies on the X arm being and remaining flat and straight so that the head remains vertical when the X runner bearing is correctly adjusted. With the acrylic X arm, I found that it was impossible to avoid a slight twist because of the force exerted by the weight of the head. So the head rolls a little as it moves along the Xby orictosh - Ormerod
QuoteTreito Quotedc42 To use my Ormerod board for X homing, you need to print a small homing pad to attach to the X motor mount. This is covered in the fitting instructions for the Ormerod board. Funnily I need this part also for the stock sensor. It seems that there is a small designing issue as the sensor board is a little bit displaced according the y-axis and so it misses the original sensorby orictosh - Ormerod
Hi Thomas, Hope you don't mine I put your post thorough google translate Hello, I just bought an Arduino Mega kit with a shield plate reprap RAMPS V1.4 and I encounter a problem with the motor axes. - First of the stepper motor is not my Z axis does not, by that I mean that when I give an order the rotor does not rotate but vibrate and my ammeter panics, I immediately thought about an engineby orictosh - General
QuoteJedzieMiZmordy Hello, I have an issue. When I try to print from SD/pronterface I need to heat up hot end before becouse heating from printing mode will turn off my power supply. When I got 240 Celsius and some time to prevent firmware to start heating My axis are moving and I think they cannot set thier 0 position becouse I do not use endstops. 1) How to disable endstops and set homing manby orictosh - General
Quotedc42 Yes I make the Ormerod-specific boards when I have enough orders to justify the time it takes to make a batch. I carry the mini board in stock because it is much more popular and is included by T3P3 and E3D in their 3D printer kits. To use the mini board on an Ormerod 2, somebody would need to design a printed or easily-fabricated mount to fit it on the Ormerod hot end. I don't have anby orictosh - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 QuotePeterSimpson..In the process of trying to get it working I have broken one or two of the plasic parts and would like to print some replacements.(or to be more precice find someone to print them for me) I got a lot of spares with the used ormerod1 I bought from Mario, would be happy to see those parts put to good use, postage will be very low (<100gram = letter postage)by orictosh - Ormerod
Import the file into meshmixer, it's free to download; produces good easy to remove support it also looks at the model and points out the overhangs. You can align the faces in meshmixer but I find easier to use netfabb basic In drawing/image you posted the face which is facing you would be IMHO the best face to place upon the print bed, turn on support and it just needs to support the gap betwby orictosh - General