You can try to change the e-steps by the EEPROM. It can be accessed from repetier host. I'm not sure about other host softwares. You can also manually increase flow for your filament configuration, this can be a temporary solution. Make sure you aren't connected to your printer with another software if you want to upload the firmware. Hope it helped!by Dyze_Design - General
I strongly suggest to get a standard resins, often used to repair cars bumpers or boats. Polyester resin is very popular.by Dyze_Design - Plastic Extruder Working Group
You can check our product, we will be happy to help you installing it in your new printer! Other famous choices are J-Head and e3D.by Dyze_Design - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Great design! It can be very tricky to handle flexible filament, but that extruder design is great! Have you started from the Wades extruder or from scratch?by Dyze_Design - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Hi Veesta, It depends on the part you are printing. If you have very pronounced overhang angle, you might want to use a very focused air flow at the nozzle. Smaller parts will also need a very focused cooling. Larger parts can benefit from a less precise cooling since the movement of the print head will end up cooling it eventually. It is better to have a 360° cooling around the hotend, becausby Dyze_Design - Plastic Extruder Working Group
You can adjust your extrusion configuration in your slicer when some wall are problematic. For measuring STL files, i would suggest Blender. It is fairly easy to useby Dyze_Design - Printing
Great print! Pretty amazing for that speed +1 For JamesK, default acceleration is 3000 mm/s^2, you might actually be printing at 240 mm/s on the longest edges, but that's not bad at all! Also, make sure your slicer doesn't have a maximum flow (repetier is 12mm^3/s by default) so it reduce the actual feed.by Dyze_Design - Printing
Please do not forget to test your PSU! Sometime the problem can come from bad PSU that shutdown with a lower load than what they are rated.by Dyze_Design - Printing
Your stepper motor drivers are either getting hot, or getting just a tiny bit not enough current. When printing, monitor their temperature with a thermocouple. If they are cold, slightly increase the current. If they are hot, add some heatsinks and cooling fan.by Dyze_Design - Printing
Hi Logan! Can you show us your electronic board wiring? When you hit the heat button, do you see any LED lighting on your board? What firmware are you using?by Dyze_Design - Reprappers
I would suggest reducing both the acceleration and retraction speed by a factor of your ratio (5). If you let the retraction speed as high as it was before, the motor won't probably be able to turn that fast and will skip. For the E-Step calibration, you can use your eeprom or flash a configured firmware. I strongly suggest to test a 100mm extrusion and measure it to confirm the steps for yourby Dyze_Design - Reprappers
It seems like it is a bad electronic. The squares on the screen are usually there when the screen is initialized, without any data sent to it. The communication problem might also come from the bad electronics. I suggest to contact them, they have high quality products.by Dyze_Design - Reprappers
Interesting, are you going to anneal your parts to improve layer bonding? I feel like a toaster oven, as others suggested, would do the trick. Plastics don't have a precise temperature where properties drastically changes like metals, so a bit of variation in temperature shouldn't be a problem.by Dyze_Design - General
Hi Aussiphil Great job with your prints! If you have any question about the product feel free to contact us! Maxby Dyze_Design - Printing