To quote from the (https://www.walmart.com/ip/2016-Upgraded-Quality-High-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-DIY-3d-Printer/919868952) Printing material support: ABS, PLA, HIPS Hot bed temperature: 100 Hot bed material: Aluminum XY axis positioning accuracy: 0.01mm Z axis positioning accuracy: 0.004mm Printing material diameter: 1.75mmby RonN - General
On ebay you can post questions to the seller to clarify if it needs soldering. On the heated beds that I got the thermistor wires were already soldered. I just had to cement the sensor into the hole and use kapton tape to tape it to the bottom of the board. You will want either zip ties or split wire loom to bundle the wires together. If you plan on using non PLA filament you may wan to addby RonN - Wanted
To reduce the current the stepper driver will have a small pot (screw head) that can be adjusted. You really should configure your particular kind of stepper driver.by RonN - Reprappers
I like the looks of the single sheet frame, but I have read that it has an issue with the top vibrating in the y-axis direction at the top. You can either print some parts that attach at the bottom of the frame to make it stiffer or do the fin's on the back like the Wood Sheet frame does. note: Wood Sheet frame needs longer threaded rod that extends far enough out that the fins can be bolted toby RonN - General
I sourced my own parts. For Aliexpress think of it like ebay. Lots of different sellers ranging from scam artists to major companies. My rules were... Have they sold a lot of stuff and gotten a good reputation? Secondly are they primarily selling 3d printer stuff. That way I could expect them to know their stuff.by RonN - General
I had a similar problem. I fixed it by going to an arts and craft store and buying some 1/4 inch cork board. I cut a sheet to fit the bottom of the heated bed and used Kapton tape to hold it in place. If you want to speed up the initial heat up of the bed make another cork sheet and drop it on top of the bed. MANUALY tell the bed to heat up. When it gets hot enough then remove the cork frby RonN - General
I suggest removing the build plate and trying to level the heater pcb by it's self and see if that helps remove the bowing.by RonN - Prusa i3 and variants
I had the same problem with my i3 rework Wades extruder. What i did was put a large metal washer,M10 I think, on top of the hot end and then made paper ones and added them till it had a tight fit. I think that there are modified extruder bodies you can print for it. I didn't bother doing that after I had it working.by RonN - General
Is there a suggestion box somewhere for the Marlin software? It would have been nice if the LCD>Prepare>MoveAxis pages displayed something if an end-stop or something is preventing the axis from moving. I unnecessarily replaced my stepper drivers when it was just a case of my opto endstops signal being the inverse of the usual mechanical switch ones.by RonN - Firmware - mainstream and related support
>what about changes should be done to marlin to operate the controller Configuration.h Search for "LCD" You will need to read the comments and figure out which line(s) you need to uncomment for your hardware. This page may help http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller Also you can get an adapter for $3 on ebay.by RonN - General
I don't have a printer of my own, but I'm a long time lurker. I'm wondering if the wires from the steppers are wired to the driver board in the wrong order. If you could set things up to do a step then pause and repeat you should see it moving forward in uniform sized steps. If it jerks backwards some times that would be the problem. Putting a cloths pin/clamp on the moving shaft will help yoby RonN - General
Search for PT1000 on Ebay. Mouser has themby RonN - General