immaculate print as i expected when i saw this was a DD threadby DaGameFace - Look what I made!
QuoteMechaBits NOPE MecaBits, No one asked for your nightmare fuel, I certaintly didnt need this at 1am funny thoby DaGameFace - Look what I made!
do i get anything for noticing a grammatical error? " The slides are universal, and mount heat to toe"by DaGameFace - General
looks like you have no microstepping to me, the x and y movements look better than the x and y diagonals did you put the jumpers on your printerboard? the pins should be under your stepper driversby DaGameFace - General
I bet i could order a sheet of PrintBite for either ft5 or 6, I have had a sheet of that stuff on my prusa clone since I was in highschool (about 4 years of routine use), still works like magicby DaGameFace - General
Quoteorbitalair FolgerTech FT5 or FT6 ?? 2 week lead time. Bonus is that its NOT 4 figures ! Quotecozmicray Folgertech: FT-5, FT-6 Kits I think we have a winner, have not seen this printer before but I like itby DaGameFace - General
QuoteDust Perhaps a railcore from ? I believe it is a kit only. Very close to the one I had seen, unfortunately there is a 3-5 week lead time on kits for that railcoreby DaGameFace - General
So I have a healthy budget for a new printer, 4 digits, and had seen one I really liked in the past but cant find its name. It was an extruded aluminum frame very similar to the hypercube design but could be bought directly from a company (not sure if it was a kit), it had linear rails and dual z leadscrews with a belt connecting them to a single stepper. Really what im after is theese few keyby DaGameFace - General
QuoteEd3D I can appreciate both sides of what you two are saying. No the deflection isn’t great, neither is repeatability and it could easily be much much better using machined Al but then its no longer this cheap to build. I think this poises itself in a certain price to quality level that many might find appealing / fun. Exactly, the price to performance ratio of this layout, compared to otherby DaGameFace - General
QuoteMKSA QuoteDaGameFace .... PROS: +Big build volume +Great holding torque and lift capacity +High precision +Cheap to build CONS: -Calibration requires accurate measurements of the distances from pivots Frankly, to achieve the 3 first PROS goals, quality materials, tools even a machine shop and the expertise to run them are required. This is beyond the capacity of the vast majority of 3D priby DaGameFace - General
Quoteo_lampe QuoteJoergS5 It would be interesting to produce thinner filament on-the-fly from 1.75 mm or 3 mm filament, i.e. remelt into thinner filament before it moves into the hotend. This remelt should be done protected from oxygen. That was partly my 1st. idea, but pushing still hot filament through a Bowden tube is a no_go. Yeah, youd have to miniaturize a a machine that is normally heaviby DaGameFace - General
QuoteMKSA I fail to see the advantages of the way the lead screws are mounted considering the extra complexity (although the math is done by the microcontroller luckily current 32bits can do). Each joints mean play and there are plenty. As for rigidity, repeatability, accuracy I wonder even for a FFM 3D printer. The layout of the leadscrews was chosen because it was easy to design and cheap to bby DaGameFace - General
QuoteMechaBits you might like this one WOW, that is an awesome overbuilt overhead camera crane, Anyone know of a good open source robot forum? i went looking around and found a couple that seem to have no active users and a few others that are the forums for companies that sell closed source stuff. I suppose Hackaday could be a good place but think Id like to wait till its a bit more completeby DaGameFace - General
QuoteEd3D QuoteDaGameFace Anything specific you have in mind for the arm? Nope, just a really cool project. Im sure I can find some kind of use for it though! Perhaps an auto print remover? What are you planning to use it for? Auto print remover could be a good use for all the torque, Personally I would like to eventually have a printer that can print some sort of expanded extrusion (like foamby DaGameFace - General
QuoteMKSA In fact, it is kinematic of a crane just the leadscrews are arranged in a more complex way than the hydraulic actuators (that could be replaced by ball screws actuators BTW) Can you give the equations of the X, Y, Z as functions of the three motors steps ? Here is the math for my forward kinematic model, my triginometry is a little rusty so i may have done a couple extra steps but Iby DaGameFace - General
Quotejamesdanielv is there a way to make it use belts? this design seems rigid ,but how fast does it work. a good example would be to have it pick up and pace several items repeatably. is there a homing process that can make the device be ready and generally calibrated within minutes? also it seems the only thing holding the motor arms in place is the rods that are connected to the motor shafts.by DaGameFace - General
QuoteLoboCNC What are you planning on doing for wrist joints, if anything? In designing robot arms, you typically start with the wrist joints and then move back towards the base, as each joint will have to deal with the mass of the more distal joints. The wrist joints are also typically more challenging to design in order to keep the mass and size to a minimum. One more consideration is that tby DaGameFace - General
QuoteEd3D I would recommend switching out the lead screws for ball screws. You can get them cheap from china (link) Second im not sure those couplers are good - switch them out for some of the more rigid style ones not the sprung ones. Im really interested in this project - any plans to make it available to other people? Yup im aware that ballscrews are far superior, but have had bad experienby DaGameFace - General
Quoteo_lampe Interesting design! On first glance, I see the weakest point in the leadscrew nuts. They are too short and any wear in the thread would lead to binding ( on the screw or the slides ) those are the leadscrews I used, dont think that wear should be a problem for a while as the nut is constrained to only move along the axis of the leadscrew and havent heard of 3d printer leadscrews biby DaGameFace - General
in configuration.h find the line #define HEATER_1_MINTEMP and set it to 0, that will get rid of the error, if you have a heated bed and the thermistor is connected you need to make sure that #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 is set correctly if you have no heated bed then you can disable it alltogether by defining temp_sensor_1 as 0. The temp sensor on the bed may be a thermalcouple, in which case the rampsby DaGameFace - General
follow that diagram untill you have a specific problem and question, the ramps has been around a while with basically no changes to the hardware so an old guide should be fineby DaGameFace - General
QuoteEd3D Nice! Whats the speed / rigidity like? how about repeatability? Speed and rigidity of the arm itself are quite good, still testing the speeds but it can move the end effector from max reach to near its base in around a second to give you a basic idea. Because of the mechanics the speed and torque change as the nut gets closer or farther from the pivot point of the two members on the arby DaGameFace - General
So I was looking into whats available for open source robot arms and wasn't that impressed with the options. Anything that was decently cheap was small and weak, I think I came up with a novel way to allow a cheap yet accurate and strong arm to be built with readily available parts that have been made quite cheap by the boom in open source 3D printers. With two nema 17s and cheap lead screws I waby DaGameFace - General
Could it have done a failed Z lift at the end of the brim then lowered the Z to begin printing the part?by DaGameFace - Printing
I tune my steppers based on how hot they get after being in use for a couple hours, warm but not hot to the touch is ideal. There are other things that can cause an extruder to skip steps, too much tension on the idler, humidity soaked plastic, a rough cold end/throat sticking to the plastic, the list goes on. If your stepper driver gets too hot before you can make your stepper warm this is a siby DaGameFace - Printing
Interesting setup with those bands. Ooh and linear rails? Id like to see how well that thing prints. My solution wasnt as good, it improved the print somewhat but its still not great. New pictures are the last three in the same imgur link above. Its going to have to do for now untill I do a printer overhaulby DaGameFace - Printing
Yup at that small of a print size rectilinear is not an issue. Problems may arrise if you print something 4x or bigger than that layer size though. That chemical resistance is quite interesting indeed, Im sure ill be pondering its applications. Could it be recovering from a wipe movement at the end of the last layer that is causing the under extrusion of the inner perimeter?by DaGameFace - Printing
Quoteo_lampe I see gaps in the perimeters too. Around 5 and 11 o'clock in the total top view image. You either have binding or slack in your mechanics. Yeah I hadnt noticed those perimeters until after posting, the mechanics definitely dont bind and had already tried to remove the slack by tightening anything that made sense the results were the imgur album in the first post. I was Just hoping tby DaGameFace - Printing
For petg I like to print at .25 mm height instead of .2 with my .4 nozzle. I also increase the default extrusion width from .48 to .5-.52 in addition to increasing the infill extrusion width. This taller wider extrusion seems to work quite well. On larger parts rectilinear infill will not work as the strings of petg cool. Honeycomb is usually better. PETG is also quite slippery on certain driveby DaGameFace - Printing
set your e steps with gcode then M500 to save and begin each print with M501 to loadby DaGameFace - Printing