QuoteCellJeffe Quotecristian QuoteBackEMF I think it would be great to be able to slap together 3 axis and hit the print button, let the machine figure out the wonkeyness and spit out a perfect print. That woudl be great, but even after thinking about it for some time I cannot find ways to detect automatically skew. It may probably be detected without printing a calibration object by using some fby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Imperial is still nice to place on top of a car. The music industry replaced the 12 inch records with MP3, now that was a bad idea i admit, but now there is FLAC and everyting is ok in that department. Rack servers are still placed in 19inch racks that for some reason are never actually the same 19 inch for some strange reason.. Or are inches flexible in the 19inch range? Wouldn'tby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF I do understand why some people would bounce it on 'bad hardware design' though i also see the advantages of having clever software solutions. And since autolevel already exists and the addition of this skew correction looks like it is only a small extra addition i don't see why it shouldn't be included. Actually it would be great if this somehow could be included IN the autolevelby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Experimenting with feed rates and acceleration now, i hear differences in tone but not yet in loudness. I must find some good info on these settings how they relate to the motors and how the 2 settings work together / against each other. I hope i don't damage anything. I'll try to get the neighbour interested in the future. He seems to be more 'traditional' and thus into beer and sby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF O thanks! I’ve played with the acceleration though haven’t yet touched the feed speed. What are your settings? Then have some idea in what range I have to be.. I’ll put them in and have a listen. I see I need to learn a lot more about the firmware. This is what worksfor me' #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2.5, 25} // (mm/sec){500, 500, 2.5, 25} #define DEFAUby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF The Z-axis mainly screams when doing the bed level probing. I don't have a video camera I soon will upgrade my stone-age spy device that can also make phonecalls to a more versatile spy device. :-D My Z is very quiet, I have the speed reduced a lot. It also makes the leveling more accurate if it is done slower, but the bounce effect built-in to the firmware really takes care of thby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF I'm seriously looking for ways to eliminate every printing sound. I already managed to reduce the noice by finetuning stepper currents though according to my neighbour it's still to loud. Mentioning the noise level from a recent party in his house didn't seem to even things out. Not sure if it is me but I really spend some time to reduce noise and I still get complaints... Any ideby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendz thanks guys. That's pretty clear to me : no imperial ! ( but i like the name .. imperial smartrap..good for ego To be honest, i was a little scared because until i would redo the all design in something like openscad , I don't see when i could work on the adaptation , it's a lot of work , and i even couldn't test easy from France. I think the only imperial we have left here aby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendz Would it be nice to have the smartrap in imperial ? i wonder.. No Way! About the only country using imperial is USA, nearly all other countries use metric. Imperial has some strange calculations to be made for 3D printing, not really easy to do like metric. I have no idea why USA has not gone metric yet, it makes it hard to fit in with the rest of the World.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendz Hi Christian, Thank you for those feedback. I can only agree with all that About the Z , I think that making a triangle would be the best too, with maybe two threaded rods going on the back , behind the steppers and attached on the top. That would make a solid triangle reducing the flexibility of those two smooth rods. It is that or using M12 smooth rods like in the ptrintby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteVDX ... look into the data-sheet, there should be a 5V input for activating the laser ... maybe even a 0-5V analogue input. I'm driving my lasers mostly with PWM to adjust the average power in respect to moving speed ... Do you think a servo pin out could be used?by regpye - Laser Cutter Working Group
Using a RAMPS board, which would be the best way to control this laser module? I am building a complete laser cutter/engraver separate from my 3D printer, but using the 3D printer to make many of the parts.by regpye - Laser Cutter Working Group
QuoteAbuMaia Thanks. I tried doing a search, but it didn't return any results. In your end code add this line and it will make a beep. M300 S300 P1000 ;sound when finishedby regpye - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteKurzaa On my motor drivers, I am able to read and adjust the voltage to the meters with a multimeter. The black probe (gnd) went to the ground wire on my power supply for convienence and a little balancing act (aligator clips would have been nice). The red probe went to the potentiometer (metal) on the driver board. With the meter set to 2V (?) I was able to read the current voltage with theby regpye - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteRTurnock I saw a video of the Smartrap with the extruder working but the motor was on a table with the shaft pointing straight up and pushing filament through a bowden tube.........is that how you use your extruder? The geared extruder can be used in several different ways as now it is a stand-alone design.. Using it to produce the least number of curves in the Bowden tube is best. There arby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteRTurnock I am following this BOM. Is there a better one or more current one? OK, thanks for the information on the threaded rod. You can make the size whatever you want,bigger is better in some ways because you can make bigger prints. As for the Bowden tube,I would go a lot longer,250mm makes the bend too sharp and causes big restrictions and friction, a longer Bowden eliminates that prby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteRTurnock Quoteduranza I'm using 10-24 stainless from home depot. It fits the stock frame good so that is size #10 and 24 threads per inch. That is about 1/8 inch diameter threaded rod but the recommended 5mm rod is 60% longer diameter. I am planning on a 22cm long Z axis rod to get 150mm Z height for printing. Does #10 meet my requirements? Can you buy a M5 die there and run it down somby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Hmm, for some reason the Z axis is screeming especially during bedleveling. The small adjustments during a print are quiet. Around about line 375 in configuration.h file there should be a line that is similar to this v #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2.5, 25} // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000,50,500} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speedby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteLukashuk And what if in the bed center depth is 1 mm? The detail top too will be with a hole? Or gradual alignment? Or back? ! ! ! NO! ! ! the hole will be! ! ! It is better to level a bed hands of 1 times in 1 month. forgive for my English If I understand what you are meaning, that the centre (Australian spelling) of the bed has a hollow that is 1mm lower than the outside edges, then yes yby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteLukashuk And what if in the bed center depth is 1 mm? The detail top too will be with a hole? Or gradual alignment? Or back? ! ! ! NO! ! ! the hole will be! ! ! It is better to level a bed hands of 1 times in 1 month. forgive for my English If you can manually level the bed as best you can do it will remove a lot of the additional movement made from the auto bed leveling adjustment. This wiby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 My z stepper/threaded rod connector had broke, so I tried the fish aquarium air hose mod that someone suggested. It worked great, but also had the benefit of cleaning up the z wobble. The wobble of the threaded rod doesn't matter a hoot. If the top end of the threaded rod is left to wobble it will reduce or even eliminate the Z wobble at the print because the rod is able to move iby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteRTurnock Ordered plastic parts from MakerCoast. Will order threaded rod and then I already have all the other parts, motors, etc. I hope to make one before September to show at the local high school. Shouldn't be too hard to do Richard, only takes a day to build one if you have all the parts. Someone new to building will take a little longer of course, and has to learn several things on tby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteRTurnock What alternatives are there to the Z axis M5 threaded rod? I can order one from McMaster Carr or ? What are people doing to drive the Z axis? Thank you. Threaded rod comes in lengths of all thread and usually is 1 metre long (in Australia) M5 is usually not as good a quality as M6, unless you choose to buy stainless rod which is made to a higher quality. Keep in mind the files aby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF I've got another interesting theory. Maybe there are differences in the encoders themselves. I will lookup some data-sheets and see if there are differences. Apart from this what i find most irritating is that in some menu's turning right the values increase and in others they decrease so no matter how you flip the values in pins.h there are always values that work the wrong way aroby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemarkstephen You guys are too kind. Thanks. No we are not, we are all hungry for knowledge, so thanks again for your pioneer work.by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Quoteregpye QuoteBackEMF I don't know how it is for the other controllers, but the full-graphic-smart-controller this fixes the X Y and Z controls but it 'breaks' for instance the LCD contrast control, that worked 'right' before. Now this change is actually better as like MeIT already mentioned, it's less risk that you damage something due to counterintuitive directions. But sure thaby regpye - Smart_Rap
Looks very encouraging Mark, I am sure that after some fine tuning you will have it perfect. Well done.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteregpye QuoteMelT Yeah, I would think so, Reg. I only have one printer so I can't really tell. But if you are using a lot of LCDs and everything else is the same (same brand, same firmware, same type of knob, etc.), and some of them work backwards, then I would think it may have to do with the way it was wired. Some high-end LCDs may even have it's own firmware for controling the brightneby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT Yeah, I would think so, Reg. I only have one printer so I can't really tell. But if you are using a lot of LCDs and everything else is the same (same brand, same firmware, same type of knob, etc.), and some of them work backwards, then I would think it may have to do with the way it was wired. Some high-end LCDs may even have it's own firmware for controling the brightness and stuffby regpye - Smart_Rap