On another note about cleaning up the builds. I have a number of guys interested in building machines in my local area (local Mens' Shed) I am going to be their adviser on building as I am local and also have some experience. One aspect of building for a group is time to do everything, so I am looking at ways to save some time and do things a little differently than all printing of parts. Oneby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 Where are my manners? Thank you Regpye for the link on the gear generators, I did end up going another route as my belt was just not going to work. So I made a few modifications to parts I had in hand and am evolving to a rack and pinion drive, at least for now. Have to really re-arrange everything to accommodate the wider Y plate, so hopefully I will have it back up and runby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT 2 turns just doesn't sound like it can grip the shaft well. Make it 5 turns at least. I've never had a problem with this many turns. You might want to try that. Yes I agree. With my fishing line model I had to use 5 turns as well because otherwise it starts slipping after a while (probably because it gets warm with friction) I used 27Kg mono filament fishing line because I was unaby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT Now you got me a little worried. I have a 4 yo son who's always around me when I'm printing (he probably thinks everything I print is for him ) Looks like this is just too risky Or maybe I can just keep him out when I'm working on lasers. Have to do a lot more reading on this. How fast does it cut stickers anyway? Cutting stickers would depend on the power available and alsby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteCellJeffe Thanks, regpye, but I was well into my redesign before I saw that. I'm quite happy so far with this simple fan mount - it works well enough so far without a duct. Though I have to thank you again after stealing your ideas of the long lever arm and short bowden tube retainer for the servoless lever. Yes I noticed that you followed my idea and used a similar design. Works well doeby regpye - Smart_Rap
I added the M82 as previously talked about and did another print. I didn't see any difference at all, so I am assuming that M82 is set in the slicing software (Cura) by default. Anyway, I like the better finish on both top and bottom layers, and the extra speed that it seems to print at. The corner finishes are better too.by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteCellJeffe Hmm. I switch over to all rack-and-pinion last night (and a 0.4.9 update!) and decided to do some speed tests using the speed multiplier of Repetier (base settings Perimeters: 30mm/s, Infills: 40mm/s). Speed was not the problem. The printer could easily go 150% to 200% faster than the base settings. After some sleuthing, I determined that cooling was the main problem with increasedby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Yes i also noticed the new speed that came with the Cura 14.7 update t hought it was me overlooking some settings hehe. In my case the higher layers now tend to crimp more (a cylinder comes out slightly conical) Am I printing to hot? The overall result has improved a lot. Thanks Cura! I'm going to add your Start and End codes too Reg, clever details. :-) Is there a reason why M8by regpye - Smart_Rap
I just went out and checked on my printer in the workshop, it is doing a pretty big print and I am using for the first time the latest version of Cura that came out today. I must say I am very happy with it, the prints seem much better and also faster too. I am using my same settings as the earlier version, so they have done something in the software that has improved it a lot. Here is my startby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT Quoteduranza Or you can do what MeIT has done and re-direct some airflow to the print It's just that celljeffe's fan is only 40mm so it looks like it's just big enough to blow on the cold end. I'm having some level of success on my setup but I believe the best would be a dual fan setup. One dedicated for cold end and a ducted one for the print because as you will discover, you willby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT Now you're making me jealous again. Is that laser another exotic part that will be hard to find? I do not have a broken CD drive that I can salvage for parts. Maybe I will drop by the surplus store to get one and use the laser inside. Looks like light enough to mount at the end of the X end of the smartrap. Modifying a SmartRap with a diode wouldn't be very hard to do. The conby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT Do you mean something that will be attached to our smartrap and make it a laser engraver/cutter? That would be awesome! I'll be watching this! Even a low power lasers enough to cut stickers will keep my smartrap busy. Well I have started to build a laser now, just to play with. I will probably use the laser I already have to make some parts for this one. I intend to use RAMPS to rby regpye - Smart_Rap
Here is the promised video doing a speed test on one of my SmartRaps. I sliced with Cura and set the print speed for slicing at 80mm/sec. During the print I turned up the speed as much as 275% and still got pretty good results. Video can be seen hereby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza It has always been like this. I could never get the auto level to work, but the regular 28 works fine. The Z min shows open, but the z max is triggered. I had a faulty RAMPS board once, it was triggered when not even connected. Worth to take the plug off and check the actual board, you may have one like that too.by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT Ah. If it always says triggered, that could be it. And please check that you have placed the wires to the RAMPS board correctly or that you have wired the right terminals on the micro switch. It should be in the NC (normaly closed) pin. And also check if a wire is broken or something is forcing the switch to open due to weight of the wiring or something like that. I had one machine tby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 I can't even begin to describe how happy this makes me... I'll pick up hardware tomorrow I think. I have a belt that I scavenged from an old scanner, but I don't have a drive gear, does anyone know where to find a printable one? I have searched and printed a few but nothing is matching up right. There are OpenScad files available that will allow you to design and save STL fileby regpye - Smart_Rap
Pretty good prints duranza . I have all of mine printing at least 80mm/sec because that is what Cura has been set at and I use the same slicing files for all my different printers, they all can handle that speed easily. They are all using a geared extruder and the same type of hotend. I did a test a while back to see what limits could be pushed with the SmartRap and I turned up the flow rate witby regpye - Smart_Rap
Great video Mark and very informative too. I guess I also will have to learn FreeCAD now as well, because I have just started getting a few guys interested in SmartRaps at our local "Mens Shed"and they will need to be taught CAD so they can use the machines. I use a rather expensive program that I really love, but these guys will want FREE, so FreeCAD would be the way to go. I have already downlby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza I'm using your extruder. I think it is 11 teeth straight. Yes the steppers I have came with a 5mm shaft turned down to 4mm for some reason. A straight hole is what I was going to use. I will send you a PM before I leave for the city in a few minutes. I will be away for a couple of days.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza Hey RegPye, do you have the small extruder gear in freecad or another editable format? I need to make the ID to 4mm for my stepper shaft. I was using a makeshift sleeve and it just broke. I will check to see what I have. How many teeth do you use, is it a straight tooth or herringbone? What diameter gear is it and you need a 4mm shaft hole? No flat, a plain round hole? (unusual sizeby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza My steps are 99 on the x and 98 on the why. I have the stepper shaft spool adapters. I have printed a calibration cylinder 10 x 10 x 5 and I'm within .05 Should I print something bigger to dial it in? Always print something very big to set the steps correctly. I edited the last message so I should not repeat here, but anyway, make a very large shape, no centre fill so you don't wasby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza Has anybody experienced parts getting out of proportion at the outer edges of the printing area? I'm making something that requires almost full travel but the dimensions get bigger at the edges. Like an 8mm hole is 8.7.. I'm leaning towards the fishing line being too tight. No not the fishing line too tight, it is the steps for your axis are not quite right, probably too small a numby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF I like the tube in tube solution! I'm wondering is PTFE 2mm ID x 6mm OD exists, then you just need one tube and 6mm fittings You would need a big fitting at each end too, maybe not enough room to fit it? Best to do the way suggested with an outer sleeve I think.by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF OK, my fan is way to close. I'm jumping between Slicer and Cura every now and then, i like the simplicity of Cura. I have played with the Fan speed settings though i'm sure the fan is just to close You can also print a cowl for the fan so that the breeze is directed to where you need it. I have done that on a few of my i3 machines and it works well. The photo shows two 80mm fby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF I'm still experimenting with 2 fans though i have the feeling the regulated fan is a bit to big (4CM) since my prints are getting worse somehow. How far do i have to place the fan away from the print? Are you using automatic cooling? With a fan of that capacity you could have it outside of the print bed area. Are you using Slic3r or Cura or something else? The fan can be controlleby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotetjb1 Doesn't change the fact they don't respond to emails, it seems most of the hate on this forum comes from the company not responding to the customer. I see it for QU-BD, DIYTechShop and Makerbot just to name a few. I think that Makible is the very worst, they never answer any emails, don't supply the goods purchased and don't respond to refund requests either.by regpye - General
QuoteBackEMF Reg please share the STL's for the X and Z i'd like to give this a try. Also i see an option to use the same parts of the X axis to be used on the Y axis (as a carriage like Cliffs wooden SmartRap) then it's a matter of printing one file 2 times. That also would make production a tiny bit simpler? Will share the rest of the files soon, I will put them up on my website with the otheby regpye - Smart_Rap
Another good idea about the vinyl tube sleeve around the PTFE liner, keeps it nice and smooth alright.by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT I'm not sure about the actual dimensions but it looks like the radius is big enough for it to slide smoothly. I can see that brittleness can be a problem with 3mm filament but I'm guessing not with 1.75mm. I also noticed that the point where the drive gear is pinching the filament is already past the bend and is straight so I can see this working. Worth a try, don't you think?by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotecristian QuoteMelT Hmmm... it looks like the 90 degree bend has been done on the ormerod extruder Isn't such a tight curve dangerous for the filament? Most of them are quite flexible but PLA may be brittle, especially low quality PLA. It is very cold in South Australia at this time of year, and especially in my workshop at night. I found that a spool of black filament breaks every night aby regpye - Smart_Rap