QuoteMelT Quoteregpye Quoteduranza I was trying to keep the bend radius big to reduce friction. So you think I should cut it? No don't cut it, if anything increase the length and keep the curve as slight as possible. Right. This is why I mounted my geared extruder vertically in the first place. This way, there is only one u-shaped bend and not a spiral if the exit is towards either side. Theby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotefabrice974 with this, only one fan is needed How do you control the first layer that shouldn't have a fan blowing on the work piece? If you turn the fan off the hotend doesn't get any cooling. Also the hotend should have continuous cooling and the work piece should have controlled cooling, sometimes blowing faster when needed and slower or even off when not needed. Too much air on the worby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteSrek If your bolt is grinding the filament you have a different problem. Either your idler pressure is way to high or the pressure in the hotend is simply to high. A good hotend overcomes these problems a lot.by regpye - Plastic Extruder Working Group
QuoteMelT Aaah... On a separate note, I wonder if Serge will move his stuff from thingiverse to youmagine. You know, after the makerbot was accused of stealing the designs of people. I would agree with that, anyone wondered why I haven't put anything up on thingiverse? The parent company is out to do us all, trying to patent our ideas and stop us using them. Real corrupt ideas in my book, Iby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza Bowden tube support This has helped me get consistent filament flow. Very crude, but I'm going to draw and print something formal soon.. Very good idea.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza I was trying to keep the bend radius big to reduce friction. So you think I should cut it? No don't cut it, if anything increase the length and keep the curve as slight as possible.by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT Quoteduranza Bowden tube support This has helped me get consistent filament flow. Very crude, but I'm going to draw and print something formal soon.. Nice print! Your tube seems too long though. Since your Z rods are not that long anyway, have you though of cutting it a few inches? Anyway, with a geared extruder, it may not matter much. I am using long, very long tubes on purposby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza nice cura print I'm really liking cura alot. Is there a way to scale an stl inside cura? I think Cura has the very best of scaling that I have used. Click the mouse on the object that you want to scale and a window will appear with three icons, it will be in the lower left hand side of the working window. The left hand side is for rotating the object, very powerful and easy to use,by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT Good that direct drive is working for you. I wonder how powerful a taller motor is compared to a shorter one. Maybe enough to not need a geared extruder. I have tried several sizes of motor for direct drive and they all suffered from the same problems, some larger ones where even worse. If you go to geared it is possible to use a small motor, I have one that gives no trouble and haby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza Well the stepper motor gear came out great. Now on to the clamp, and tomorrow I'll try the big block... That is good news that you have it printing now. You will see a huge difference once you start using the geared extruder. Someone asked if I would share the separated Y axis files and I can't find the thread, so as we all read all the threads I thought it best to post here so thby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT Quoteduranza I'm going to slice RegPye's extruder one more time with cura and give it a try. Exactly my thoughts. Slic3r to me makes nozzle moves that do not make sense. With Cura, it prints exactly how I would print it if I was a printer I wish it had specific settings for overhang and bridge though. I work around that with the plugin but the setting applies for the whole level anby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza I'm going to slice RegPye's extruder one more time with cura and give it a try. Use at least 35% infill, more for the gears for best results.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 Yes its definitely an old PSU, I had added some led's to the 5v rail in hopes it would alleviate the problem, but I was not so lucky. I think today Will try powering the Arduino off it and see if that is enough draw to keep it alive. Going to need to do that anyway if I want to upgrade to a stand-alone at some point. Have a look at this website it may help you a bit. You don'tby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 Quotemadmike8 Looks good. Are you looking at the same picture I am? Its a mess lol It will come around in time, now that I have a feel for whats going on and what I "need" etc. In all seriousness, thank you! There will be many more changes down the line. Using the old power supplies we use to add a load resistor between the green wire and a black one, that held the power suppby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza Ok guys, I'm having problems with the prints being good in the first 2-3 mm and then it starts to be intermittent with the filament flow. Any Ideas? I'll post a picture in a bit Refresh our memories, what extruder are you using? geared or direct drive? Which hotend are you using? Fan? Speeds? Temps?by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Quoteregpye The slicing program works all of that out, it is all automatic and the fan comes on when needed and off to start with, etc. Ok then i get it. So the hotend needs a continuous stream of air. And the print a controlled stream.. So the best way is then to use 2 fans to keep reliable hotend temperatures. Going to add one right now :-) You got it.by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Will also try, What is the effect on the prints? when do i blow to much air on the print? Would be nice to know the philosophy as well. I suspect some 'shrink' issues with a fan blowing on the print? Please avoid Freudian or Hegelian philosophies, (My mom and dad cannot be blamed, and it would be nice if the philosophy is not to cryptic) Also i wonder if it is better to let theby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Reg please share the STL's for the X and Z i'd like to give this a try. Also i see an option to use the same parts of the X axis to be used on the Y axis (as a carriage like Cliffs wooden SmartRap) then it's a matter of printing one file 2 times. That also would make production a tiny bit simpler? OK, no problem, I will upload the files a little later today and send you a PM when Iby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotegoldenmongoose regpye, cudos on the new hot end design. I wasn't refering to the performance of your hot end. But, it's easy to make an expensive hot end that works well with PLA. It's much harder to make an inexpensive hot end that works well with PLA. I saw you're hot end design and it looks cool. But, are there any source files available? I'm curious because it looks pretty long comparedby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT This group is lucky to have you sir, for constantly trying things which not all of us can afford to do. :-) If there's one thing I wish someone tries though, it would be the fixed X rods like the reprap ormerod. Hehe Well thanks for that comment, it is very much appreciated. And I am doing all of this on an old age pension, it keeps me off the street so to speak.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemarkstephen Think I have about all the printed parts made. Center section and outer retainer for the second Hotend, the dual extruder extension and idler, and Bowden tube looms - 4 "dog bone" and 3 "C" type, for Bowden tube management. Mark This should prove to be very interesting, can't wait to see the prints.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Ran into a couple of other problems, but have them sorted out now. The pressure on the Z belt was pulling on the assembly so I needed to fit an aluminium bracket to give it some support and stablity. Easy to do and works fine. Other problem was keeping the belt located on the small idler bearings, and that was overcome by printing a cheek plate to go over the bearings, works well too and easy toby regpye - Smart_Rap
I use only a 30mm fan for the hotend that is running full speed and powered directly from the 12 volt supply, and if needed for cooling prints I use a separate fan on a stand that I can place where I need it and run it from the automatic fan pins on the RAMPS board. Not all prints need a fan on the prints and being as the SmartRap is a little hard to mount a big fan on for cooling the prints, I fby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Im having a fight with the slicers. When i place the Rack and pineon part diagonal on the bed and slice it up then both slicer and cura manage to skew the layers, at first i tought it was slipping fishing line ore skipping steppers but it's really a slicing issue. when i turn the part 180 degrees then the skew moves along to the other side.... and when i print other long parts diagoby regpye - Smart_Rap
The pin for power off is next to the 5v pin which is close to the reset button on RAMPS. There are three pins there, vcc the inner pin, 5v the middle pin and the outer pin is for power control. It puts the ATX power supply into standby mode which is off but still connected to the mains.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotegoldenmongoose Quoteregpye Yes no Walmart here thank goodness, but we still have some pretty bad things happening here too, and following USA too much. I hope we don't go down that track too far, it looks pretty bad. Nice try Reg, but I've been to Australia and it's a very nice country with very friendly people. I would agree with you there, but the pollies are a different breed. Things arby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF I'm thinking of doing a RAMPS or GRBL retrofit on a CO2 box thought the big scary laser keeps me from getting my hands on the beast. I first need to read up on the watercooling...what end is the cold-in and what end is the hot-out etc. I'm not sure if it is 40 60 or 80Watt i think 40 ... Someone else has plans to make a big ass lasershow from this beast though i have the feeling itby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF I see, that's what made me wonder, thanks for clearing that up. FreeCAD is for now the only CAD program that actually works for me, i've tried several ... I'm running 100% on Debian based OSes since Windows pissed me off one time to many and i swore never to go back to it ever again, although that has put me back into the media dark ages for a couple of years.. Now Gimp, Inkscape, anby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT Glad you sorted it out. I too, had the slant on X before and just needed to tighten the fishing line. 5 turns on the shaft works for me. What's your nozzle diameter? And at what speeds can you print now? On my first SmartRap I used fishing line too, and I also used 5 turns and had no problem. I also used mono-filament because that is all I could get at the time, and I had no sliby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotegoldenmongoose Haha, I understand Reg. No can of worms shall be opened. Maybe I shouldn't say everyone. Maybe just America loves cheap. I guess there's no Walmarts in the Outback to corrupt your socio-economic world view. Yet... Yes no Walmart here thank goodness, but we still have some pretty bad things happening here too, and following USA too much. I hope we don't go down that track tooby regpye - Smart_Rap