Quoteduranza I'm definitely not saying anything bad about the J-head Lite. Cheap, simple and works. <----- Love this... I'm just having noob problems and once I figure all that out it will be awesome. I do know where Regpye is coming from though. There's things we can't cheap out on to avoid headaches. Being on a really tight budget is what has made me who I am. It has made me resourceful. Iby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotegoldenmongoose Quoteregpye Yes a very common problem with the ultra cheap hotends, you only get what you pay for don't you? You say cheap like it's a bad thing. Everyone loves cheap. You can use a voltage regulator to control the fan speed or just use a smaller fan. I have to disagree with what you say Kyle, Not everybody loves cheap, but everybody loves reliable. People buy "cheap" becby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Interesting, I wonder how good RAMPS will be for this. Or would GRBL be a better choiche? What do you need for the CO2 laser? PWM? If it is X, Y, PWM and 4 endstops then GRBL might be a nice way to go. I'm going to keep an eye on this topic. :-D Yes X and Y and PWM if engraving, or X and Y and E for just cutting, both can be the same and just control the PWM. Could still use thby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemarkstephen SAT file format is used by the ACIS CAD kernel. Once upon a time it was an open format, until Dassault Systemes bought it and promptly closed it. If I'm not mistaken, ACIS is the CAD kernel used by Alibre / Geomagic. Quite correct Mark.by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteJasper1984 Drilling a 0.5mm hole in that domed nut sounds hard..(well through the M6 nuts too) Yet i havent seen anyone describe it. Suppose is just a matter of getting a tiny drill and a stable drill stand? It is pretty easy in a lathe. Little secret about doing it. Hold the drill very short in the pin chuck (jewelers chuck) If drilling a dome nut, mount it on a short piece of thread helby regpye - General
I have been having success with my hobbed bolts because I thought about it when I first started having problems of stripping the filament, clogging and misalignment. I overcame all the problems by simply using a very large tap to cut the teeth on the hobbed bolt. It still has sharp teeth so it grabs the filament no problem. Having large teeth they are flatter so the alignment problem has gone toby regpye - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Quotesmartfriendz wonderful mark ! I'm so curious to see that in place I'm thinking about where to put those 2 extruder steppers already and what if we put 4 ? thinking hard here .. That is easy Serge, just use a couple or more of my extruders and do what MeIT did only using the new mounting brackets that I have in "Free Stuff" on my website, instead of a block of wood.. You could bankby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza Thanks for the files Regpye. I have increased the temp to 220C and now i'm printing at 60% instead of 20%. It seems the J-head light is finally broken in the only bad is that the J-head mount is bending a little due to the Teflon getting hot. I can't turn on the fan of the temperature never reaches setting. Yes a very common problem with the ultra cheap hotends, you only get what yby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza Well after 5 hours of slow printing this is what I have so far. I hope this will help me speed things up if it doesn't fail when I'm sleeping.. Wow that is sure slow, I print the whole extruder, gears and all in less that 3 hours I see you have a lot of stringing between the parts. This is often caused through moving too slow and another reason is the temperature is too high, but Iby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemarkstephen I don't think the weight would make a difference one way or the other. There are two of them no matter which way you mount it. But like Reg says - "We will see, wont we" I think it will work just fine. Mark Me too. When will you be testing it ha..ha..by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 Awesome I will for sure have a look, maybe I'll just go that way instead of the this Wades I printed out, can't hurt to have extra parts laying around. I do like your's and its "add-on" style to the Smartrap, maybe I'll give it a go now things are running so smooth. Any tips on learning CAD on the side. I never have had any experience in it at all. I have been able to make a feby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteZeAllan I use the optional print fan connector for mine, and have modified my start G codes to begin with "M106 ; FAN ON", and the end codes to end with this BEFORE the final M84: M106 ; FAN ON (keep on while cooling the hotend) M109 S30 ; Wait for hotend to reach 30 degrees (5-10 degrees above ambient temperature in this part of the world) M107 ; FAN OFF M104 S0 ; turn hotend off This keeby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 Quoteregpye Looking good now. Pays to stay with it for a while, the problems are very good, it makes you learn something. If you had just bought it ready to print out of the box you would not appreciate the machine as much. Isn't that the truth, and honestly I think most of my problems were in my inexperience in setting up slicer and impatience, at least for my build 30mm/s is jby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 Well looks like I got most of my issues settled out, at least for now. I have had several successful prints at this point and will be changing to a Wades extruder not to far into the future. But for now it seems to be working quite well. Once I get a few brackets printed I will get my "build" finalized and start a new thread with some photos. Looking good now. Pays to stay witby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Don't think I've seen a front to back arrangement before. Is the weight going to effect the swing arm any? We will see, wont we? That is what SmartRap is all about I think. New ideas to try out and push the limits.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteregpye QuoteMelT And when you get a chance, print a geared extruder. You won't regret it. I printed regpye's extruder and it worked wonders in terms of print quality and print speed. But you have to sort out your temperature first. I shared my experience here and hopefully it can help you out a bit. Here are the URLs for the extruder, one right hand version and the other left hand versiby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT And when you get a chance, print a geared extruder. You won't regret it. I printed regpye's extruder and it worked wonders in terms of print quality and print speed. But you have to sort out your temperature first. I shared my experience here and hopefully it can help you out a bit. Here are the URLs for the extruder, one right hand version and the other left hand version. They areby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza Got some updates. Mechanical: I finally got G29 to work somewhat. It probes the first 2 points and on the last point it says that the end stop hit. When changing the extruder offset in marlin, it seems to not work. The probe doesn't move up enough after G28 and it scrapes the bed. I have tried to set it with repetier host M555 by going up 1.5 mm after homing and saved with M500.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotegoldenmongoose I don't do much engraving, mainly acrylic cutting for display cases and assorted templates/stencils. I guess it's easier to think of them as fancy light bulbs than it is to retain all that information. Me too, engraving takes too long unless you are using vector. I mainly cut acrylic and MDF parts for various projects. I also do a lot of sign work as well. Get the odd job toby regpye - Smart_Rap
Another nice looking machine, well done.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotegoldenmongoose Well mine has paid for itself many times over. Definately the most useful fabrication tool we have. It's like doing math on a calculator vs. long division. I use mine a couple hours a day at least. After a couple years of heavy use the 40w laser burnt out so I replaced it with a 60w. CO2 lasers are basically just fancy light bulbs. Pretty easy to use, minus the acrylic catchinby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Quoteregpye I have a CO2 laser cutter, I bought it nine years ago when they where pretty expensive. They haven't changed much except for the price. You might want to rethink using a CO2 on a SmartRap, the tube I have is 80 watt and is over four feet long. It is powered at 27K volts.and is water cooled. The cooler is the size of a bar fridge. Best to go with diodes for sure, they aby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotegoldenmongoose I've got a 60W from . It's not one of the ultra cheap ones, cost about $7000. The $500 ones have a smaller table and prone to over heating. The low wattage CD drive/diode DIY ones will do some lite engraving and paper cutting. They look like fun, but I've never tried it. How do you find that laser Kyle? Is it a newer model? Mine being nine years old was fairly new at the timeby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemarkstephen OK, on the subject of the low wattage lasers, I'v also been kicking around the idea of a Smartrap style SLA printer. With the advancement in resins along with lower cost, it might be worth a shot. 50 mw or so blue laser, 150 mm petri dish, lifting Z, PLA printed parts. Would be able to use the cheap 34 mm steppers. Could be interesting. Firmware / RAMPS laser control? Any ideasby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Engraver/barely cutter... I'm thinking 3W 445nm diode to get me going... I gotta make sure I don't shoot out my eyes first... So, probably be in some type of box... If it works well, and think I need bigger may try one of those CO2 tube types down the road... I have a CO2 laser cutter, I bought it nine years ago when they where pretty expensive. They haven't changed much except foby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza Thanks Regpye. One question.. How in the heck did you download all so fast? My laptop has been downloading for 2 days from github lol. MeIT is there a place where you set the flow rat on marlin? or do you set it on the lcd? Got a fast connection I guess, it only took a few minutes to download the whole lot here.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza The non servo one. I can't seem to get it to work when I send G29 with the pc. But still the biggest problem I have is the struder stepper still kicks back when trying to print. I have tried to add a bit of oil to the bowden tube and still not any better. OK, I just downloaded it all for you and took just Marlin out to make it quicker for you to download. This one is very new, the lby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza Anybody have just the smartrap marlin file.. I've been trying to download from github but the whole repository takes for ever. I'm trying to get the auto level to work and I want to try a clean marlin file Which one do you want? The servo or non-servo files? I can send them to you.by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF I send the PM before i've read this, I'll have a look at it tomorrow and see if I can fix it. After seeing that drawing i think it is what i described in the PM, I think it could have dislocated then i changed the nozzle's Easy fix, I have also sent you a PM. Should be OK after putting it back again.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 So how much failure should a noob expect? I am getting very frustrated with this, and while my ego will not let it beat me I am getting very frustrated and doubting everything at this point. I just don't get how I can have a beautiful print one second then try something else and it just fails miserably. I know I am having extrusion/feed issues that I can't seem to wrap my heaby regpye - Smart_Rap