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Re: How do i use a bowden extruder with the J-head lite v2.1? - 11 years ago
QuoteRobert_Paulson I like regpye and his design, but it's a little unsafe to just tape a thermistor to the side of a heater block like he does. Especially with a 40w heater cartridge. Actually I fit the thermistor into a hole that also takes a set screw for holding the heater block securely to the brass threaded rod. The thermistor is then set inside with some ceramic adhesive that is used usby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Preparing to Build... Some Questions - 11 years ago
Quotecosmicr Thanks for the replies guys. I've started ordering parts. I've changed my mind on JHead and am thinking the E3D head... Will see when I get to it. Will stick with 1.75mm unfortunately, since it might be too much trouble to go to 3mm. I've been attempting to print off the parts on my Mendelmax 1.5, and am having a really hard time. The build plate is the biggest thing I've ever triedby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Hotend woes - 11 years ago
Quoteepicepee I think my J-head is dead. My filament has been stripping even at low speeds and printing is extremely unreliable. I've been printing at some pretty high temperatures for a PEEK-barrel hotend and I only just got a fan. I think there's a bit of some sort of junk stuck in there. I've tried clearing it with a bit of wire but it doesn't help, at least not for more than a few minutesby regpye - General
Re: Regpye's is not an extruder... - 11 years ago
Quotesmartfriendz Im not surprised of this good result with reg hot-end. They are obviously high end hot ends But they don't have a high end price Serge. I guess you have been too busy to try yours out yet? All in good time, I have another that I think I will send you, this may help you with your design program for future SmartRap machinesby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Regpye's is not an extruder... - 11 years ago
Quotecristian ...is a magic wand that gently melts any kind of plastic! No matter what temperature or printing speed or filament type, never had a clog. And thanks to it I can finally print even Colorfabb XT and Ninjaflex with my Smartrap without heated bed! Many thanks Reg! Great to hear Cristian, Can you give a few more details of what you have been printing and the filaments you have useby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Verteez Smartrap build - 11 years ago
Quoteverteez I have small problem with my marlin again.. Every time I run g29 command I got diffrent Z offset read :/ But my bed is for sure always in the same position, and nothing is changing the nozzle position. What can cause this? here are last 4 probes 22:00:14.143 : 22:00:14.143 : Bed Level Correction Matrix: 22:00:14.143 : 1.00 0.00 0.00 22:00:14.147 : 0.00 1.00 0.01 22:00:14.147 : -by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: How do i use a bowden extruder with the J-head lite v2.1? - 11 years ago
QuoteRobert_Paulson That's Reggie. Always pimpin' the goods. Are you back again Kyle, different name this time?by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: How do i use a bowden extruder with the J-head lite v2.1? - 11 years ago
Quoteknife-edge So is it not possible for me to thread the inside of the top of the hotend to accept one of these? Or should I just ask Kyle from Ohio plastics to accommodate mine to work with the smartrap? Sure you can tap the end to accept M6 and just screw the pneumatic fitting in. Pneumatic fitting All of mine come that way so you can either use for Bowden, take it off and use for Wades,by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: New Hotend possible - 11 years ago
QuoteSweetPeas Reg, I will be making at least three new printers, one for each of my children and one extra for myself. I often find myself waiting for a print to finish and that I want to try something new out One of the hotends will go to my existing printer and the last one will be a spare. /Pontus I think you are going to be pretty busy. I was looking at your design of single Z motor fby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: How do i use a bowden extruder with the J-head lite v2.1? - 11 years ago
Quotesmartfriendz It is true i asked kyle to make a 5mm hole to fit the bowden inside the head for better alignment. If there is not , it's quiet easy to do , but you must think to disassemble the ptfe body and small tube before. I guess you can also tell ohioplastic it's for a smartrap and he will do it. I think like you regpye that pneumatic would be better ? I'm about to test it on the smaby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: How do i use a bowden extruder with the J-head lite v2.1? - 11 years ago
QuoteRobert_Paulson I've never had much success with the pneumatic fittings. There's too much of a lip. What does this mean Robert?, I have never had any problem with pneumatic fittings, but I have had problems with clips and nuts. Maybe you have experienced something I have not yet, so I would like to know so I am aware.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: How do i use a bowden extruder with the J-head lite v2.1? - 11 years ago
The quick connect fitting on the end of this hotend takes the PTFE liner that forms the Bowden line. It simply plugs in and holds very tightly. To remove, simply push the cap inwards and pull the liner out. Genie Hotend MK1by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Hot end design - 11 years ago
Us Aussies seem to be the hotend people. I also have a hotend that has been designed specifically for PLA and 1.75mm filaments. Comes in two versions, the Genie MK1 which fits many machines and the MK2 which has a much shorter body. Both are available with 0.3mm, 0.4mm or 0.5mm nozzles. The heat break is the secret of this design, it stops any heat transferring up the barrel. The MK1 is suppliedby regpye - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Re: Blue tape in Adelaide - 11 years ago
Are you using a heated bed? If so, why use blue tape or any other tape in fact? I find that the very best and cheapest method is to use sugar mixed with a bit of water. Make a syrup of the sugar and water and spread a very small amount over the glass bed, and let it dry (I turn on the heated bed to 70C and it dries quite quickly.) Do your print as normal and it will sure stick down well printinby regpye - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Re: Preparing to Build... Some Questions - 11 years ago
Quotecosmicr Hello All, I'm a MendelMax 1.5 user, planning to print off the parts and build a 0.4.9 SmartRap. First and foremost, what layer height do you recommend? I'm thinking 0.4mm? I'm using PLA. I've gone over the BOM and had a look at the instructions, but have a few questions about sourcing the components and building: 1. I'm assuming the design I'm printing allows for the newer auto-lby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: New Hotend possible - 11 years ago
QuoteSweetPeas Got my hotends and I must say they look great. I have a lot on my hands right now but i will start working on the printer in a few weeks. I'll try to upload pictures on the progress. /P Good to know you got them already. Will you be making 5 printers? (one for each hotend?)by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: fabrap 1.0 - 11 years ago
Quotefabrice974 little test part Prints very nicely, well done.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: I don't get out of the beta status... - 11 years ago
Quoteverteez I have a positive value and everything is working fine. If you want, check my configuration file, maybe it will work for you? Yes on my SmartRaps I use a positive value as well and a negative on the MagikMakers and i3 machines. But all of this depends on how the probe is setup and we have not seen clearly how this particular machine is setup. The photo shown is not clear on how tby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: I don't get out of the beta status... - 11 years ago
QuoteXhnnas When I choose a negativ value, it crashed on the bed. So you have tried that? Can you show us more about the setup, it seems strange that you are having this problem.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: I don't get out of the beta status... - 11 years ago
QuoteXhnnas Unfortunately nothing helped. Yesterday I did the same procedure as everyday. I zeroed the Z offset in Marlin and uploaded it. I Homed the axis (Z Home is at 90/90 due to marlin firmware settings) Put a piece of Paper under it and highered the Z Axis Defined the Z Height at 1.4 Insertet Z Offset height of 1.4 into Marlin. Started to print a small 1,5cm Cube Nozzle was to closeby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: I don't get out of the beta status... - 11 years ago
Quotemikefiatx19 QuoteXhnnas Nevertheless, I finished the build and did some adjustments: I defined the Offset of the described by "regpye". Unfortunately, this only works for one print. After the second print, I've to define the offset once again, and for the third print, and for the fourth, etc. I don't know if the autolevel is not working properly. (The combined solution of Multiplex and 3mm Aby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: I don't get out of the beta status... - 11 years ago
Quoteldanut I use a 8mm lead screw for z axis and i get zero wobble. And I don't use autocalibration at all. I added some knobs to the bed and did one time bed leveling manually and thats all. It works perfect every time after couple of kilo of plastics. I have a few printers like that, and use a hall effect sensor for the Z probe. Once setup up they all work very well. The 8mm threaded rods alby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: I don't get out of the beta status... - 11 years ago
QuoteXhnnas Nevertheless, I finished the build and did some adjustments: I defined the Offset of the described by "regpye". Unfortunately, this only works for one print. After the second print, I've to define the offset once again, and for the third print, and for the fourth, etc. I don't know if the autolevel is not working properly. (The combined solution of Multiplex and 3mm Alu is not flexiby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Verteez Smartrap build - 11 years ago
Quoteverteez Now I know that its a tricki one Yes, im using the fan for genie hotend, and the fan for the nozzle. But I havent printed yet Your duct. Right now Im using Cura 14.07 for some time, and I just love it. It just was giving me the better results than RH with less effort. Yes, right now retracion is like this: Speed 45mm/s, distance 5mm, and in the expert settings nothing changed. Iby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Verteez Smartrap build - 11 years ago
The Maori is a tricky one to print and is very good for testing. Are you using a fan? What software did you use for slicing? Are you using retract?by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Verteez Smartrap build - 11 years ago
I made a couple of parts for your 40mm fan. Not tried them out but I am sure they will do the trick. It is in two parts, one to mount the fan and the other to direct the air flow. The fan mount will attach to the 30mm fan housing for the Genie hotend, you should position it where it fits best and super glue it in place. The air flow director is angled and reduced at the end to concentrate the airby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Verteez Smartrap build - 11 years ago
If you can add a heated bed the lifting problem can be solved easy with the very wide prints. Just use sugar on the heated bed and after printing, let the print cool down, because you wont be able to get it off while hot. When cool it will fall off by itself. Mix a little sugar with some hot water so that it is a thick syrup and rub over the glass plate, heat it up to temp until the sugar has dby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Verteez Smartrap build - 11 years ago
If you print a top for your Z rods, it will hold them Steadier. If you add a metal bracket, like an aluminium strap top the top bracket, you can tie that bracket to the base plate and stop almost all movement. If you give me some details about the fan you want to use, I can make you an STL file for printing the cowel. Where did you want to mount the fan? Quoteverteez Well, I should post somethiby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: New Hotend possible - 11 years ago
The new Genie MK2 Hotend is now available and on Special until the end of October this year. Still in limited supply as parts are still being manufactured, some by hand, some by CNC. Soon the parts will be all CNC machined. The new hotend also sports a J-head or E3D connector, so it will fit many existing machines already built. It will however also take the Genie MK1 grooved nut, so it will alsoby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Problems with the leveling - 11 years ago
Quotemikefiatx19 The G29 in the slicer code takes care of any angle in the plane of the glass. The 3 point level reads the height of the bed at 3 points and records the angle to use as a reference for the gcode commands. If you watch a print after the 3 point level has happened you should see the Z screw constantly turning to compensate for the uneven bed. The only time I can think of when thisby regpye - Smart_Rap