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Re: Not possible to home Z due to the lenght of Stepper Motors? - 11 years ago
I will gather the files together and place them on my website. I don't like using Thingiverse because of the way it is setup and abused by the owners. Anyone that wants the files will be able to download for free, some are already up there, i.e. "stand alone Y axis", :Geared Extruder". If I add the Z axis and the mounting plates, and the X axis they will all be available. I will also add the siby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 11 years ago
Quotedc42 For anyone interested, I do 5-point bed levelling (4 corner points + centre of the bed) using a differential IR sensor that I have developed and Duet hardware. The sensor uses two modulated infrared beams and picks up their reflections from the bed, inspired by height sensing method used on the Dambusters raid. I have manufactured two batches of these boards for other 3D printer owners.by regpye - General Mendel Topics
Re: Not possible to home Z due to the lenght of Stepper Motors? - 11 years ago
QuoteBackEMF what about turning the x axis upside down? with the motor on top... How about putting the motor on the side? I have built eleven SmartRaps, nine of them being completely different from each other, trying to find out what works best. The last design was a total failure, so I abandoned that one. The eighth design works the very best. It overcomes just about all the problems, is a bigby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 11 years ago
QuoteAbuMaia QuoteregpyeIf you want to do it the hard way, keep doing as you have been. My method works every time and is very easy. Not had a failure yet and I have setup many this way. Do you get as big a variation in numbers when you do it both ways? I have only done the one way.by regpye - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 11 years ago
QuoteAbuMaia QuoteregpyeUsing this method is so easy and very accurate too. Just one variable to change in the firmware and then the rest is done automatically. 1. Home the Z. It will be above the bed but will read as zero position. 2. Lower nozzle to bed position. Use paper to get the correct bed space. 3. Send M114 from Pronterface to read the position. 4. The reading shown on the screen willby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 11 years ago
QuoteFA-MAS I've got the offset right with that method. I'm saying that if you look at the gcode, slic3r moves the nozzle up the distance set as the 1st layer in the settings (G0 Z0.35 in my example) from where the autolevel measured Z0 thus making it's true height off the bed Z0.45 and then the layer's not squished enough. Change the setting in the g-code. I am using Cura and this is what Iby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Re: Full Color 3d Printer Project - 11 years ago
QuoteMiertam Has anyone tried mixing laser toner into natural filament? it should become bonded at around 200C. Thanks Mike I tried sublimation ink and it worked fine, except the colour stayed with the filament for a long time after stopping it. I just wiped a bit of the ink on the side of the filament and it mixes when melted. Some seems to stay inside the nozzle.by regpye - Developers
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 11 years ago
QuoteFA-MAS I'm a little confused on setting the offset. I understand the tutorials say take the nozzle and touch the bed, then back it off so you have the clearance of a sheet of paper, just like you would do if you did it manually. Lets say it's .1mm thick. Then set that as X0 Y0 Z0 and then put the probe/microswitch down on that same spot till it triggers. Effectively setting it so that wby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Re: Not possible to home Z due to the lenght of Stepper Motors? - 11 years ago
Quotesmartfriendz ho ok. yes, the only solution i see is to level up the bed. you can do that with wood plank , fixed using the holes for glass holders ( 4 holes M3) , then maybe you can fix the glass holders on the plank , then the glass on the plank too. you should be high enough ? It is not such a bad thing to do, because you can then attach a heated bed easier too if you want to. the woodeby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Not possible to home Z due to the lenght of Stepper Motors? - 11 years ago
There is definitely no need to use 48mm motors. I am using 40mm motors on all my i3 machines which need more power than a Smartrap, and I am also using 40mm and even 35mm motors on the Smartraps. 48mm motors are simply overkill.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Problems with the leveling - 11 years ago
Using this method is so easy and very accurate too. Just one variable to change in the firmware and then the rest is done automatically. 1. Home the Z. 2. Lower nozzle to bed position. Use paper to get the correct bed space. 3. Send M114 from Pronterface to read the position. 4. The reading shown on the screen will be the exact value to put in the firmware for the offset. 5. Program the board asby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Heat-shrink tubing close to the hotend? - 11 years ago
Quotecristian Hi smartrappers, here comes a newbie question. I have noticed that it is quite common to use heat-shrink tubes to insulate wires close to the hotend (or even inside, as for the thermistor). Is it okay for long term use? Most of those (cheap) tubes are rated for 125°C, not more. Wouldn't it be better to use kapton tape? Cristian I use and supply PTFE sleeve that is only 0.5mm Iby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: New Hotend possible - 11 years ago
Quotemondo50m I wasn't complaining about the prices. And I apologize if I came off that way. Your hot end is a very good price. I was merely wondering if the prices were stated in Australian or U.S. dollars. Even with the price of the shipping, your product is very much in line with all of the others. Milt I understand you now, yes the prices are in AUD.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: New Hotend possible - 11 years ago
Quotemondo50m Interested here, but the shipping costs are terrible. The calculator says it is almost $15.00. Is that Australian or US dollars? Milt Yes the shipping I can't do much about. The cost of sending one is too much, because the weight is calculated in increments of 500 grams, so 5 or 6 could be sent for the same price as one, or anything else that comes to the same weight. I have nby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: New Hotend possible - 11 years ago
QuoteSweetPeas I want 5 units, lots of people wanting smartraps for Christmas =) /Pontus I can make you up 5 units when you are ready. Just send me a PM and we can arrange it for you. I would need details of shipping destination, 5 units would most likely post for the same price as 1 unit, so it would be a saving overall on them.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: New Hotend possible - 11 years ago
QuoteBackEMF Genie has a cute little brother! Nice evolution Reg! Less weight and more print space. But apparently not much interest? I will only make these as a "supply as wanted" item, no production run, hence no, lower price possible. The MK1 fits the i3 machines nicely, the MK2 would be too short, but ideal for a SmartRap I would have thought.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Shopping Cart Fixed - 11 years ago
For all those people that contacted me and told me that the shopping cart didn't work properly, thank you. It has now been fixed and is working properly. September Specials have now been added too.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Info on the SmartRep Mini ---First post--- - 11 years ago
QuoteCameraman They can burn your house down: Notice on my hotends there is a grub screw that holds the cartridge firmly in place so it can't come loose.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Info on the SmartRep Mini ---First post--- - 11 years ago
Quotecristian Quoteldanut The problem I see with resistors is that if you try to go faster they can't melt the filament fast enought. A 30W heater cartrige works better in this case. Also they heat up faster. Dan. What are the disadvantages of the cartrige, if any? I personally have not found any problems with the cartridge heaters, they are neat, easy to fit, heat up fast, consistent, price iby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Info on the SmartRep Mini ---First post--- - 11 years ago
QuoteBasher Thanks for the replies. I am at the point now of overload... This is a great forum. I thought the plastics would be hard to find , or expensive compared to the other needed parts , but itl turns out that the members here are very generous. I may take you up on the offer reg , but I dont know if I'll have the cash this month. I have liked your design since the first time I saw it. Aby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Info on the SmartRep Mini ---First post--- - 11 years ago
Quotemikefiatx19 Also Regpye has a really cool stand alone Y axis that could be added if you want more rigidity on the axis (If only it had rack and pinion) and i think his axis would be a lot better suited to extending the build size if you wanted to. Regards Mike It would be quite easy to add the rack and pinion to my stand alone Y axis, just drill two holes for the threaded rod and print thby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Servo Motor Help - 11 years ago
Quotenitewing76 M-Codes and G-Codes are nice for temporary...on-the-spot adjstments. You should always mimic these changes in the configuration.h through WinMerge or Notepad++. Othersiwse, you could lose all calibration data (e.g. auto-bed level, DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT, etc). Not really sure why Smartrap says to put the servo on the I2C bus, when, as RegPye pointed out, the board already haby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Info on the SmartRep Mini ---First post--- - 11 years ago
QuoteBasher I am not sure which direction to go ... there are so many modifications , and everyone's machine is different , environment is different ; so I know I just have to get some stuff together and see what goes wrong. I have concluded that I am going to get the standard "release" printed , and go from there. I am confused as to the servo and non servo leveling. Until I got deep into the olby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Smartrap X End Mount for J-Head Light Hotend - 11 years ago
Quotemikefiatx19 Thanks Regpye, The OD of the tube seems to be 2.5 mm and the ID must be around 1.8 - 2 mm. I think it's actually a piece of the ferrule material that you put over a cable kind of like the really thin PTFE tube you cover the legs of the thermistor with. Only it's for a thicker kind of cable (13AWG). Thats what I saw from the image of the Jhead lite V2 on thingiverse. I am goinby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Smartrap X End Mount for J-Head Light Hotend - 11 years ago
Quotemikefiatx19 Bollocks, my windows piece of crap laptop did an update half way through a 5 hour print. The machine stood frozen at 200 C for a few hours before I came back and noticed. I fed through 20mm of PLA and i thought it was fine but the inner plastic tube has just come out of the nozzle and the head is blocked. Can any one let me know what size tube it takes in Europe? I can only finby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: my rap - 11 years ago
Quotemikefiatx19 Nice machine, looks good. When i was 14 you got a free game for the acorn electron when you bought a magazine. You had to spend 5 hours typing it in off the pages using basic before you could play it. If you got 1 character wrong from the 10 pages of text your game would give a line error and crash. If you were lucky you could find the error, if not you started again. It seemeby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Where did everybody go? - 11 years ago
QuoteCliff Mellangård Could you post a link to the stl so will I give you all credit for it on my thing page Or you have a thing page to it I can link to??? The STL file can be found here on my website. Direct Drive Extruder Body Print it in PLA at 50% infill or more. Tap holes for grub screw. Polish end of grub screw so that it isn't sharp anywhere. All other parts can be purchased online frby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Where did everybody go? - 11 years ago
QuoteCliff Mellangård The train is rolling now I like it Cliff. I have a design for the direct drive extruder that you are using that can be printed out in PLA if you want it. Same design as you are getting from China, but you can make your own easier and cheaper. All other parts can be sourced cheaply from ebay, aliexpress or many other places. Only one part to print out. Drive wheel I madeby regpye - Smart_Rap
Re: Strange problem - 11 years ago
Solved the problem myself. Changed some lines in pin.h to the following of 33 section #define TEMP_1_PIN 14 #define TEMP_BED_PIN 15 Now I am using the spare pins for sensing the bed.by regpye - RAMPS Electronics
Strange problem - 11 years ago
I have just built another i3 and have used RAMPS and a mega board. Everything is working fine, except a problem with the heated bed.. The bed itself is not the problem, the problem is either in the RAMPS board or the Arduino Mega board. Without the bed thermistor even being connected, the temperature shows 20C for the bed.. I thought that was strange because it should have gone up to about 375Cby regpye - RAMPS Electronics