Quotesmartfriendz I just printed but not installed for now, but already by hand it seems to be indeed very good. Can i steel your idea and adapt for both heads? ( huxley type). I need also to adapt the top to all three driving systems ( fishing line, racks&pinions and GT2) so the model will be maybe changed, but basically, it would be a real idea steeling You found just something i trieby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza New smartrap probe/hot-end plate Hey all, I have a little present for you guys. Take a look a this little mod. I will be testing it tomorrow and when all is good I will post some STLs for whoever wants to upgrade. This will help out with eliminating the torque of the normal arm, as this only allows up/down movement. I like it, very clever. Can you send or direct me to the STL fileby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF You can also put some paper, or soft plastic between the LM8UU and the top clamp. the 0.47 has 3mm holes on the sides there so that you can clamp it down by screwing M3 's in. LOL @ Reg, it's cheaper to drill a hole in a coin then actually go to the hardware store to buy a washer. Not in my case. I have over 60,000 washers in stock already. The coins are not available here any morby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotex86Daddy I built my SmartRap using mostly a set of parts based on the 0.4.6 version. I may upgrade to newer parts over time. The main thing that bothered me was the amount of bending upward the X axis does during Z-homing, exacerbated by the fact that I'm using a servoless probe method. I figured out a quick 2-cent solution, literally, and figured I'd share. I haven't tested it much yet,by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteOhmarinus Create functional objects, functional designs, applied arts, fixing stuff, improving my surroundings, and sometimes, rarely, I design a statuette for a friend or a logo for a friends' party. I once printed out VIP coins for a party, these would give entrance to a select group of people to a party, there were 50 coins of which I could fit 13 on one print so four prints later I hadby regpye - General
I don't know what I would do without a 3D printer now, I use it for so many things. Designed and made MANY different printer with the first ones, and they just keep coming, all a bit different because there are so many new ideas to try out. Designing new types of machine too now, like a laser printer, small tools, brackets and items for the workshop, car parts, accessories for all my gadgets, theby regpye - General
Quotenapalmvictory You can buy another hot end, but chances are you'll have the same problems no matter what product you buy. Bowden setups have lousy performance with retraction. No hot end is going to fix that; it's just physics. If you want better performance on retraction, go with a direct drive system. I think 90% of the time, the best hot end is the one you already have. The truth is there'by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Hm indeed, i'll give that a go. I have another RAMPS in the pipeline so within a few weeks i can try both. Maybe try using shielded cable for the motors?? Worth a try I think. I have been lucky so far and not needed it, but I did read somewhere that a guy had this problem with a Mach3 setup and had to use shielded cables. Maybe you could try twisting the cables around each other tby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotenapalmvictory KURTZ "Where are you from Willard ?" WILLARD "I'm from Ohio, sir." KURTZ "Were you born there ?" WILLARD "Yes, sir." KURTZ "Whereabouts ?" WILLARD "Toledo, sir." KURTZ "How far were you from the river ?" WILLARD "The Ohio river, sir ? About 200 miles." KURTZ "I went down that river when I was a kid. There's a place in the river.. I can't remember... Must have been a gardenia plby regpye - Sandbox
Quotecristian Quoteregpye I don't wish this to appear as an advertisement, but I have given away a few hotends to have them tested other than by myself. Actually, even if it were an advertisement, that would have been the right place to write about it since I was totally unaware. First of all, by reading the description of your hotend it really seems designed for a printer like the smartrap, evby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotecristian Hi all, I have been playing for some days with my smartrap and we are getting to know each other. We both have some faults, mine being mostly ignorance, its being - well, many, but in particular the hotend. I am having really a lot of troubles with hotend obstruction (it is the original hotend, the same of the ormerod model), in particular with some filaments. So far I managed toby regpye - Smart_Rap
Good to hear some good news from you again. We were getting worried that something had happened to you and we missed your input to the forum, which is quiet valuable , I hope your new school will be the best for you. Glad to hear that your father is well again. Welcome home (second home)by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Also buy a tray of spare batteries. Those calipers tend to be a bit thirsty they automatically turn on when you even think about them. I think we need a little Shenzen on every streetcorner. When i go to the local electronics store then they already double the price of a resistor when they walk to the storage box only to come back to tell me that they only have 10 on stock, pleaseby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF The zip-tie isn't really needed yet, the printed slot came out so snug that everything fits like a glove, tough if there is a little play then the zip will just pull it square to the beam. I will try candle wax as well though it is already soooo smooth, it surprised me, expected a bit like a drawer, but it turned out much smoother then that. :-) I'm trying candle wax on a peice ofby regpye - Smart_Rap
Here is a universal mount for the Genie. It has a 30mm fan cowl as well. Maybe you can modify the simple plate that was designed to trim and drill to suit whatever base it was to be mounted to. Takes the Genie standard mount that uses a pneumatic fitting for a Bowden setup. Universal Genie mountby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF I'm having some fun in the learning curve roller coaster. Here is a little thing i put together in FreeCAD, a Genie hotent mount for the 0.4.7 style X axis. It's straight forward so not the most elegant but it does what it is made for. Hotend can be slided in the slot and eventually be secured with a zip-tie trough the square holes. An M3 screw can be used as set screw to fine tby regpye - Smart_Rap
I would have to agree with you BackEMF. I needed a digital vernier as the one I had at the time was not good any more (dropped it) I went to a local store to get one and the price really floored me, they wanted $85 for plus tax. I had a close look at it and it had "Made in China" label on the back, I didn't buy it, not because it was made in China, but because of the price. I went home and gby regpye - Smart_Rap
I haven't seen verteez online for a long time. He was very active on this SmartRap forum not so long ago, but seems to have disappeared. Last I heard his father was not well, I hope all is good now in his life.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendz It's true when you enter in the real world of preparing /shipping / maintaining your product, it changes a bit the feeling. Overall, i'm eventually quiet happy with that, even i do lots of mistales ans re-ship lot of things :-) I guess I have been lucky so far. Had some problems getting stuff though, seems to go missing in the post. Nearly always takes a long time from China,by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotezackary Many thanks Sogeking.... I have a camping gas stove that I may be able to use instead of a blow torch ... Not as good I,m sure but loads cheaper for me!! Hopefully will get some time this week to try it out. Thanks again!! Camper stove will work well - safer too for the nozzle. Take a piece of wire about 150mm long and bend the end a little so you can hold the nozzle in the flame.by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteSogeking Hi Greg, I find that the best solution for fixing a blocked nozzle is to use a blowtorch. This seems to be the most common fix for this problem and I've seen Reg posting this before. Poking the nozzle with a thin sharp object might damage it. Unscrew the nozzle from the hotend (when cold), remove the PTFE liner, hold the nozzle with a pair of plyers and use the blowtorch for a fewby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteCellJeffe Quoteregpye If the magnets are mounted on the bed plate, that plate would also have to be positioned in exactly the same place each time as well, or there will be bed crashes for sure. I guess all of these things can be worked out. Yes. The existing servoless Z enstop switch would probably need to be kept to sense head crashes. Of course an alternative would be a piezo-resistive sby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF fritzing.org It's still Beta, but i like it much better then eagle. And it's not 'limited / annoying by design'. Eagle is more advanced and i hear the newer hobby-release is not as limited as before. But for now i stick with fritzing mainly because i moved away from eagle due to the limitations it used to have. Looks interesting, their website has a lot of activity it seems. I am uby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteCellJeffe I haven't looked to much at inductive sensors on an aluminum plate, but an arduino can easily drive a hall effect sensor. I am thinking about a hall effect sensor on the bottom of the head and three magnets glued to the underside of the glass plate such that they form a right angle. The sensor might be useful for both bed leveling and skew. Wave the head in XY over where the magnetby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Yes, i totally agree, would be a great solution to have dual grids. For a single, single sided PCB i prefer to print a mirrored trace design with a laserprinter on glossy paper, and then transfer the toner by ironing it on a well cleaned copper clad PCB. (Ace tone works great to do the cleaning the copper, and also to remove the toner once it is etched) For dual sided PCB i prefer tby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteFloyd Thanks guys, got it cranking away and working great for the G29 probe. Is there anyway to have the G28 z home work the same way? or atleast lift 2-3mm before retract? You can always add a lift in your start code.by regpye - General Mendel Topics
QuoteCellJeffe Someone in another forum mentioned "sinusoidal" herringbone gears. That has me intrigued. Presumably, the helical gear mesh path develops sinusoidal error as the meshing teeth progress along the slant. A sinusoidal mesh pattern might compensate -- double it to a herringbone pattern to cancel the axial thrust. Unfortunately, the only thing I can find on sinusoidal herringbone gearsby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF @ CellJeffe Serge was working on the inductive sensor., Now i'm not sure if my next idea will work but maybe if the inductive sensor is moved to the edge of the buildplate that it is possible to sense if the edge is "more" or "less" under the sensor. Or better detect all 4 edges off the plate. grey square = Alu plate grey dots = Z axis red dots = inductive sensor (attached to X aby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF @ Regpye: In the PCB designs i also see 5mm and 3,5 mm pinspacing winning some ground. But the mixed pinspacings can drive you wild since you never have the right grid.... Yes it can be a bit of a pain, because some manufacturers also make in different pin placement sizes for similar devices. I have had to design some PCBs with dual pin spacings and use the device which is availablby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Neoprene is a good idea! For now i keep the hacked solution as i'm curious how the belt driven Z axis performs. I have the feeling that might be the best way to get rid of the noise. Also 0.9 degree steppermotors are said to make less noise and have a bit more power. I'm having a little break until the weather is a bit more humane. (its still 30C inside in the middle of the night)by regpye - Smart_Rap