1. If you right-click on that COM port in Device Manager and select Properties, does everything look OK? 2. Which version of Windows are you using? There are some issues with Windows 8, see .by dc42 - Ormerod
Looks great! Time to fire up my printer again. I'll put some washers under one of them to get a suitable tension.by dc42 - Ormerod
My extruder loom is red-blue-green-black at the Duet connector, and black-red-green-blue at the stepper looking from the underside. If yours has been incorrectly wired at the Duet end, it should be a simple matter to remove those 2 pins from the housing and swap them over.by dc42 - Ormerod
The beta of that thermistor is significantly lower than the calculation assumes. I've attached a spreadsheet to calculate the error this will introduce.by dc42 - Ormerod
So I tried my Corsair CX430M power supply. It is only rated at 430W (the Alpine is 550W), but like the Alpine, it has a single 12V rail rated at 32A. Here are the results. Figures in brackets are for the Alpine PSU. With no heaters turned on: PSU output voltage: 12.05V (12.19V) With both heaters on: PSU output voltage: 11.82V (11.53V) On ATX distribution board: 11.67V (11.23V) At Duet input:by dc42 - Ormerod
Are you sure it really is the thermistor at fault, and not the 2-pin plug/socket under the bed and the associated crimp connections?by dc42 - Ormerod
From the SD debug output, it looks to me that it is failing at or just after a wipe-before-retracting. Have you tried turning that setting off?by dc42 - Ormerod
I was thinking of putting an LED light at the top of my z-axis to illuminate the print bed, because the lighting where I have my Ormerod is not good when the sun isn't shining. It sounds as though a few of these powered from the 5V supply may have the beneficial side-effect of increasing the 12V supply.by dc42 - Ormerod
Quotereprappro If you haven't mounted the hot end yet, the belt pulls the x-carriage idler bearing back off the x-axis-plate. When you fit the hot end, the weight pulls the bearing into contact. Ian RepRapPro tech support Quite so; but with 2.5mm 1.5mm play, if his build is anything like mine then the hot end is going to sag a lot. I find I need about 0.5mm play to level the hot end.by dc42 - Ormerod
As you were printing from SD, can you provide a few more lines before the point of the hang? There is a 20-entry lookahead buffer, so the problem may be a little earlier than the lines you have already listed.by dc42 - Ormerod
Markus, I can't see that "retract only on crossing perimeters" will make much difference because that only affects infill. The critical change for me was increasing retraction to 4mm. I've also increased the max filament speed. What extruder temperature and which firmware version are you using? I think you may have the temperature a little high.by dc42 - Ormerod
It looks like a firmware issue to me. If you are printing over USB and the debug window is showing lines sent (rather then echoing lines received), then the problem could be quite a lot earlier in the file because of the buffering in the USB subsystem. You could try truncating the file around that point and then appending the end-of-print stuff. By this means you could track down exactly where inby dc42 - Ormerod
Quotearnaud31 If chriscain is right and the filament from his ebay link is a good if not better than the RS supply then it is good news. Will be trying it out. Looks like the supplier Chris is using is the same one I referred to in as supplying well-packaged filament that has worked well for me so far. I spoke to this supplier on the phone and he seemed to know what he was talking about.by dc42 - Ormerod
Welcome to the club! I had similar problems. First, examine the top surface where the bearing sits, and file away any bumps so the area is flat. Next, examine the nut trap. Check that the nut will go deep enough into it to be under the end of the slot for the screw. Also check whether the upper inside surface is flat at the end. Use a knife to cut away the offending plastic. When you've done thby dc42 - Ormerod
btw I think I should point out that the output regulation of the ATX PSU is a smaller problem than the voltage drop in the cables. I took some measurements: With no heaters turned on: PSU output voltage: 12.19V (measured at one of spare output connectors) Voltage at input to Duet: 12.18V With both heaters on: PSU output voltage: 11.53V On ATX distribution board: 11.23V At Duet input: 11.14V Aby dc42 - Ormerod
Quotereprappro We would love to provide a better power solution, at reasonable cost, if there is one. Replacing the ATX power PCB with something better would be great, and a sensible and easy place to start. But... we're not electrical engineers! If there is a way for the power to be better managed, is there any chance you could come up with a schematic? We can prototype boards to test. I thinkby dc42 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts Hmm... maybe it's Windows XP that needs 'true' removed. Thanks David! Ian RepRapPro tech support I doubt it. Running bossac -h gives this: Quote C:\Users\David\Eclipse\RepRapFirmware\Release>C:\Arduino-1.5.4\hardware\tools\bossac.exe -h Usage: bossac.exe Basic Open Source SAM-BA Application (BOSSA) Version 1.3a Flash programmer for Atmel SAM devices. Copyright (c) 2011-2012by dc42 - Ormerod
Using Windows 7 x64: Quote C:\Users\David\Eclipse\RepRapFirmware\Release>C:\Arduino-1.5.4\hardware\tools\bossac.exe --port=COM12 -U -e -w -v -b C:\Users\David\Downloads\RepRapFirmware-059-15-01-2014.bin -R Invalid USB value: -e C:\Users\David\Eclipse\RepRapFirmware\Release>C:\Arduino-1.5.4\hardware\tools\bossac.exe --port=COM12 -U true -e -w -v -b C:\Users\David\Downloads\RepRapFirmware-0by dc42 - Ormerod
Once again, I'm delighted to see that RRP have accepted my changes and merged them into the Duet branch. I haven't moved the code to read the IR sensor (or thermistors) into an ISR yet, and I think that would require discussion with RRP first. The stepper motor drive is done under interrupt control, and any additional interrupts would have to be implemented carefully so that the timing of the stby dc42 - Ormerod
Markus, do you reduce all the speeds to 10mm/s, or just some of them?by dc42 - Ormerod
I'm finding that all my prints come out slightly swollen. I've been trying to print the z-gear and z-driven gear, but the parts I print are too tight to fit on the motor spindle and bearing. If I drill/file them out so that they fit, then the teeth mesh too tightly and won't rotate. So my printed gears are swollen on the inside and the outside. I've tried reducing the extrusion factor in slic3r,by dc42 - Ormerod
Don't feel too bad about it. By Murphy's Law, if something can be plugged in the wrong way, it won't be long before someone does it. Sounds like the ribbon cable ought to have a blanking position in it, just like the ones in PCs always do these days. I connected my IR sensor the wrong way round during assembly, but fortunately for me the design is tolerant of that.by dc42 - Ormerod
It sounds to me that you have a short across the 3.3V supply. Before you consign your Duet board to the bin (if you haven't already returned it), I suggest you check it with the wiring disconnected from it - in particular, the bed header ribbon cable, the extruder temp sensor and the IR sensor - in case the short is not on the board.by dc42 - Ormerod
White PVC electrical tape works well too.by dc42 - Ormerod
All the flaws can be worked around, and RRP have already modified the design to solve some of them. It's certainly not the 2-hour kit that was originally advertised, but it's capable of good prints, and the design and firmware are improving all the time. I've listed workarounds for common issues in my unofficial troubleshooting guide at .by dc42 - Ormerod
Quoterayhicks I'd suggested in another thread (and mentioned earlier in this one) using a 200VA 12V lighting transformer switched by a relay ), and I think I'm going to give this a go soon, probably just for the bed (since it's not pwm driven a relay should cope, though a silicon solution may be a better option), the lighting transformers are very cheap and rated for continuous driving of heatingby dc42 - Ormerod
@victors, there already is a heatsink, and it is the heatsink block that the screws are screwed into. So it's not a case of 240C making its way up the screws, its a case of heat starting at 240C trying to make its way up the nozzle, getting removed to some (hopefully large) extent in the heatsink block, then heat making its way from the heatsink block up the screws. So I think the answer is to imby dc42 - Ormerod
Why not instead put 2 printed parts under the bed, either side the centre plywood rib? These could have serrated grooves to grip the belt, just as the x-carriage does, avoiding the problem of the belt slipping in the groove in the plywood rib which some users have reported. One of the printed parts could be attached to the rib, the other attached to the first part via a screw to adjust the tensioby dc42 - Ormerod
You could use the output meant for an external bed heater mosfet to turn on an additional mosfet that loads the 5V or 3.3V rail. That should help keep the 12V rail up. But there will be a lot of heat to get rid of from the extra load. Also, part of the problem is the resistance of the wires between the ATX PSU and the Duet. The only real problems I have seen described on these forums are from peby dc42 - Ormerod
I checked the specs of a few 12V 40mm fans at Farnell, and the ones that gave an operating voltage range specified either 13.2V or 13.8V as the limit. So you might want to reinstate one of those diodes.by dc42 - Ormerod