I think i've figured it out from the firmware, thanks! are the black leadscrew nuts plastic or anodised aluminium? if plastic, are they printed or moulded? Mine's running now, printing fairly well until the filament snaps because my drive gear is too big and the filament path is not straight. The Z axis rattles on z-hop though, because the brass leadscrew nuts have backlash.by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
If you can afford that kad 3D one, you're not far off the money for an original i3 mk2 kit.by slippyr4 - General
Do you have the official prusa drive gear? If so, what are its dimensions, particularly the diameter of of the hobbed part?by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Isn't it an open source design? Might be an interesting buildby slippyr4 - General
Well done. I've tested the X, Y and Z axis on mine, endstops and probe. Not wired up the extruder yet. I need to sort a case for the electronics to get the cables the right length. Since I will hopefully be getting a MK42 I'm going to try and run prusa firmware on a ramps type board rather than getting a smoothieboard which is originally plannedby slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Nice. Can you confirm what the RAMBo case is printed in? I'm guessing it's PETG same as the power supply cover but not sure?by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Stepper drivers autmatically increase the voltage over the coils until the current is what you set it to be. Put two steppers in series, the coil impedance doubles and so the driver will increase it;s output voltage and the current through the motors will still be what you set. each stepper doesn't "know" anything is any different, you won't lose precision or torque. series/parallel/separateby slippyr4 - General
Connecting your motors in series would be a really good idea here, not sure why you're down on the idea.by slippyr4 - General
No, there are two campaigns out there. One I agree with you entirely, the other seems good. Is the one who wants to use his funding to experiment, Is the one I'm optimistic will be a good bed. This is the guy that created filafab so he hopefully knows what he's doing.by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Mine is basically assembled, I just need to design a case for the electronics and get it all tidied up. I've got a mk42 coming (I hope) from that indiegogo campaign.by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Yours finished yet?by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
strimmer cord is a very very good shout. i've probably got some in the shed! thanks!by slippyr4 - Wanted
Anyone with a roll of 3mm nylon be prepared to post me a 1m short length if i paypal you a beer token? thanks slippyr4by slippyr4 - Wanted
Quoterich1051414 From my understanding, you can print ABS with a cooling fan, but the climate has to be controlled so that the air blown is hot enough to not warp the part but cool enough to solidify it. Basically, only in an enclosure with the ambient temp being monitored and controlled. Cooling ABS when not enclosed would cause layer delamination and severe part warping, right? That's the coby slippyr4 - General
Following up with my results after DjDemonD's suggestions. My cooling fan turns at 18% of pwm. So i'm doing that from L3 and then 100% bridging speed. Here's a couple of photos of an ABS print including an overhang and a bridge. I'm pretty pleased with the results, it's almost as good as PLA but this is ABS and it's still really strong.by slippyr4 - General
Yes, axactly that. High fan speeds make parts that look like PLA but they delaminate very easily. It's trying to find a balance between cooling for part definition and part strength. I don't get away with 100% at all, I was wondering if your parts are a. It weak near bridges. I guess at the end of the day there are a lot of variables in part cooling, how miuch air the fan shifts and the air pby slippyr4 - General
QuoteDjDemonDFor ABS after layer 3, I use the minimum speed that will turn the fans something like 18% all the time, unless I'm bringing or printing an overhang then it's 100%. Never really occurred to me to just use the bare minimum fan speed. I'm going to try that. How do you find 100% on bridging though? I find that i can get parts that look as good as PLA, but which are very much lacking inby slippyr4 - General
I have both PETG and ABS in clear. Results are pretty similar. Far from clear- you wouldn't be able to see through them. But also not opaque, so light shines through and makes them glow, much more so that with white. PETG is easier to print. You need to get your retraction just right, because it's stringy, but you can use a part cooling fan and thus it's much easier to do the more complex partsby slippyr4 - Reprappers
Hard to see the detail in your photo. Your first cube failed because the nozzle was too high; you need to level the bed closer than that.by slippyr4 - General
A limiting factor for later height reduction is how consistently the extruder can extruder very small amounts of plastic. Many of the cheap i3 clones use a variation of an extruder design that was originally made by makerbot forcthenreplicator. They're cheap, but not really very good. I don't entirely agree with what DC42 says about RAMPS. RAMPS has become the de facto standard because it has bby slippyr4 - General
It is custom, but what's customised isn't clear. There are lots of 8mm diameter inductive sensors about.by slippyr4 - General
Try visual studio code, from Microsoft. Yes, Microsoft. It is, IMO, the best programmers editor on any platform (it's on Mac, Linux and windows) First class git support, syntax highlighting for any language you can think of (including even openscad), regex search and replace, and so on. It really is good, and I is free.by slippyr4 - Developers
I'm not sure who the forum administrators are. Would it be feasible to update the forum / switch to a more modern theme that was more mobile friendly? This site is a goldmine of information. It it's really hard to use on a phone. A lot of people do a large proportion of their internet browsing on mobile devices these days. Thanks Jonby slippyr4 - General
The reason people don't usually use a cooling fan on ABS is due to the amount it shrinks. If you cool abs then the cooler layers shrink and that can cause warping and a lot of problems with prints lifting from the bed. Additionally, with any plastic, you want the newly extruded plastic to slightly remelt the layer below as it goes down, in order to get a strong bond between layers. If you coolby slippyr4 - General
You don't have the mosfets for additional cooling fans. Easiest way to add them is to get a RRD fan extender which plugs in to the servo header on the board. IIRC that gives you two more channels on D9 and D11 ( don't wuoye me on that though, look at the board diagram)by slippyr4 - Controllers
Indeed, they shouldn't be plated. I'm wary of this campaign because he's talking about getting them in "2.4mm or maybe 3.2mm" - I think the real mk42 is 6mm FR4?. 3mm won't be stiff enough and will still need an aluminium plate which won't help with performance.by slippyr4 - General
Not real as in prusa research. I bought mine from ooznest in the uk. It's been made to this dxf - prusa say MK1 and MK2 frames are the same (hence a MK1 can be upgraded just fine) Happy to measure anything you need me to. PSU cover scad - indeed, so many hardcoded values and so few comments. It's really hard to deduce what each value represents to try to parameterize it. I started, but, not havby slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I've got a power supply but it's holes are nowhere near the holes in the frame. I think i'll just drill new ones when I get round to it. I will design and print a new cover for it - the prusa openscad for the cover is a bit of a mess tbh but you can get the precise location of the bit that sticks out and screws to the Y axis, so i'll copy and paste those bits and start again, shouldn't take too lby slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for that. It's odd that they just ripped the arm out. All these microswtiches are available with arm, arm with fake roller, arm with real roller etc. Why didn't they just order the right part? I shall get these, or equivalents for my build. Tom Salanderer's cheapo build is using chinese endstop boards. Plus side of those is that they have an LED on, which is very slightly useful, but i'by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants