https://reprap.org/mediawiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Ipinson&feedformat=atomRepRap - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T21:57:52ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.30.0https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=CANopen&diff=85168CANopen2013-03-07T12:35:53Z<p>Ipinson: /* CanFestival */</p>
<hr />
<div>= CANopen Headquarter =<br />
<br />
[[Image:Canopen-logo.gif|right|200px]]<br />
<br />
For people who are interesting in a CANopen architecture on reprap or other arduino/AVR/atmega projects.<br />
CAN & ethernet powerlink related stuff too. <br />
<br />
People interested , add you there :<br />
* [[User:Ronan|Ronan]]<br />
* [[User:Seeedstudio|Seeedstudio]]<br />
* [[User:theOtherRob|theOtherRob]]<br />
* [[User:burra|burra]]<br />
<br />
Some people are cons CANopen implementation , arguing it's expensive and complex. Since this protocol is made to be cheap and simple, and most of this people don't know CANopen, we can only waste our time trying to explain what it is here since there is a lot of information on the web. We understood that "It's already have been discussed" here :<br />
* http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,16148 <br />
* http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,5128<br />
<br />
<br />
Main CANopen Features from http://www.thaiio.com/CANinfo.html :<br />
<br />
* Network Management (Network Start-Up, Node Monitoring, Node Synchronization, etc.)<br />
* Master/Slave configuration, Multi-Master & direct communication between Slaves supported<br />
* Was originally designed for Motion Control<br />
* Supports device profiles for Digital I/O, Analog I/O, Motion Controllers, Sensors, Actuator, etc.<br />
* All CANopen devices “speak the same language”<br />
* Devices are interchangeable (plug & play)<br />
<br />
Looks http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CANopen and links in bottom page for further information.<br />
<br />
= CiA profiles =<br />
<br />
Interesting profiles for reprap : <br />
<br />
* CiA 402: CANopen device profile for drives and motion control<br />
* CiA 406: Device profile for encoders (rotating and linear) - product example http://www.vicatronic.fr/fraba.htm<br />
* CiA 420 series: CANopen profiles for extruder downstream devices<br />
<br />
find tutorial and presentation about CANopen here : http://www.canseminar.com/Tutorials.html<br />
<br />
<br />
= Hardware =<br />
<br />
hardware considerations have move on [[CAN_AVR]] page.<br />
<br />
= Software =<br />
<br />
== CANopen stack ==<br />
<br />
=== CanFestival ===<br />
<br />
An AVR Port by Andreas GLAUSER and Peter CHRISTEN already exists in CanFestival for at90can128.<br />
I've worked to make it compile fine , fix some header and autotools. I've not commit yet my modification [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] because i can't test it for the moment because i need the hardware. Why use this stack ?<br />
<br />
* because it's already available for PIC18, C51, AVR etc see http://www.canfestival.org/documentation/supported-platforms-and-can-devices . Future architecture could use specialized MCU sharing same pieces of softwares.<br />
* it's maintained by few company like Lolitech<br />
* it's quality code , revision 3, many years experiences <br />
* it's a more and more complete CANopen stack ( lot of profiles )<br />
* has tools as Object Dictionary editor, virtual master node ...<br />
[[User:Ronan|Ronan]]<br />
<br />
Modification list :<br />
<br />
* remove static config.h<br />
* fix source header for avr-libc<br />
* add Makefile.in for drivers/AVR<br />
* add MCU switch in configure<br />
* convert example/AVR/Slave Makefile into a proper Makefile.in<br />
<br />
== CANopen bootloader ==<br />
<br />
First thing we need after making CANopen working is a bootloader on CANopen.<br />
<br />
= links =<br />
<br />
* http://www.dofscandinavia.com/akhe/wiki/doku.php/can_information<br />
* http://www.canfestival.org : open source CAN and CANopen stack.<br />
* http://www.ocera.org/download/documents/documentation/wp2.html CANopen is a part of OCERA architecture. <br />
* http://www.beremiz.org : Open Source framework for automation<br />
* http://www.ethernet-powerlink.org is "CANopen over Ethernet"<br />
<br />
= share work with others open source projects =<br />
<br />
* http://www.irobotics.org/robochair.html mobile robotics open platfom for assistive applications , use CANopen.<br />
* http://caraca.sourceforge.net CAN Remote Automation and Control with the AVR , and already has CAN using an obsolete<br />
AT90S4433 and his external interrupt register.<br />
* http://ecomodder.com community need CAN/CANopen to communicate with their car and work with arduino.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Principles]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Java_Software_Preferences_File&diff=85167Java Software Preferences File2013-03-07T12:32:04Z<p>Ipinson: /* FiveD=true */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Java Software Preferences File}}<br />
{{RepRapNavigation|name=Mendel}}<br />
<br />
[[File:preferences.png|right|700px]]<br />
<br />
To get your hardware working properly you may have to tweak your software's parameters. To do this, run the RepRap software and click the purple Preferences button.<br />
''(This page describes getting [[Mendel User Manual: Host Software]] to work with your [[RepRap Version II Mendel]].''<br />
''The [[RepRapPro Slicer Variables]] page describes getting [[RepRapPro Slicer]] to work with a [[RepRapPro Mendel]].)''<br />
<br />
When you run the RepRap software it creates you a local copy of the distribution preferences file that you can edit, whilst preserving the original. In this way you can have your own versions of the many parameters for the machine. These will be preserved when you download new versions of the software. But you can move to the default versions at any time. To see the latest version of the default file [http://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/viewvc/reprap/trunk/software/host/lib/reprap.properties.dist?view=log follow this link].<br />
<br />
You can have multiple preferences files, and there is a selector at the top of the preferences window (see the picture on the right) to allow you to flip between them. They are stored in a directory called '''.reprap''' in your home directory (you have to enable "show hidden and backup files" to be able to see this folder). Any file in that directory with a name ending in '''.properties''' will be treated as a preferences file. The default is '''reprap.properties'''. <br />
<br />
This page lists the preferences, and describes what they mean and do. It is divided into two sections: The first contains the general preference values for the entire machine, and Extruder Preferences contains the values specific to an extruder (of which there may be several, of course).<br />
<br />
The values after each entry are the standard ones for [[RepRap Version II Mendel]], but to check the latest values of these [http://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/viewvc/reprap/trunk/software/host/lib/reprap.properties.dist?view=log see here].<br />
<br />
Except for really obvious cases, parameter names have their dimensions in brackets on the end of their names.<br />
<br />
When you download a new version of the software you will probably want to find out if any new preferences have been added, or old ones deleted. That is to say you will want to find the differences between your preferences file and the distribution one. If you turn debugging on (click the [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software#Preferences|preferences button]] in the host software and set Debug '''true''' to do this), exit the program, then re-run it the software will report any differences between the distribution file and yours.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
=General Preferences=<br />
<br />
=== BaudRate=57600 ===<br />
<br />
The communications speed between the host computer and the RepRap microcontroller. <br />
<br />
=== BedTemperature(C)=55 ===<br />
<br />
The temperature to set the heated bed to (if any). 55<sup>o</sup>C is a good value for working with polylactic acid (PLA). ABS will need a higher temperature (around 70<sup>o</sup>C). Take care at higher temperatures that the X-axis carriage of the RepRap machine doesn't get too hot underneath, particularly if you are depositing a high-temperature polymer using a machine made from a low-temperature one. A good fix is to put a rectangle of cardboard under the carriage spaced by the underside nuts with a piece of aluminium kitchen foil glued to it with its shiny face pointing downwards.<br />
<br />
=== BuildBaseSTL(name)=mendel-base.stl ===<br />
<br />
The name of the STL 3D-model in the RepRap lib directory that represents the build base of the machine being used. Usually either "mendel-base.stl" or "huxley-base.stl".<br />
<br />
=== CommsDebug=false ===<br />
<br />
Setting this true will cause each message to and from the RepRap machine also to be written to System.out. <br />
<br />
=== Debug=false ===<br />
<br />
Setting this true will cause each action the host makes the RepRap do to be written to System.out. <br />
<br />
=== DumpX(mm)=130, DumpY(mm)=5 ===<br />
<br />
The position at which the extrude head can be run for a time to purge itself. See Extruder0_Purge below.<br />
<br />
=== ExtrusionRelative=true ===<br />
<br />
If true, this outputs extruder E codes as relative lengths. That is you get code like this: G1 X10 E10; The E value matches the distance moved. <br />
<br />
If it is false you get absolute E values; that is they all accumulate (giving quite large numbers after a while).<br />
<br />
=== FiveD=true ===<br />
<br />
This only has an effect on G-Code generation. When this is false, the software generates G-codes to control the X, Y, and Z movement of the machine and separate codes to control the extruders.<br />
<br />
When this is true, the software generates G-codes that treat the extrusion as just another dimension [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga]. That is to say, it generates code like this:<br />
<br />
<tt>G1 X23.9 Y39.0 Z0.2526 E66.5 F3000.0 ;print segment</tt><br />
<br />
<tt>G1 X23.9 Y39.7 Z0.2526 E67.2 F3000.0 ;print segment</tt><br />
<br />
So, for example, the second line is saying move 0.7mm in Y from where you last were and extrude 0.7mm of filament while doing so, all at 3000 mm/minute.<br />
<br />
=== FoundationLayers=-1 ===<br />
<br />
The number of layers of material to put down under the object being built before building proper starts. Set this to -1 to suppress the laying down of foundations.<br />
<br />
=== Canned_G_Codes=Canned_G_Codes ===<br />
<br />
The name of the directory beneath the one in which this preferences file is stored in which to find the G Code files that start and end a print. Those files are called '''prologue.gcode''' and '''epilogue.gcode'''.<br />
<br />
This preferences file is normally in '''.reprap''' beneath your home directory, so this becomes '''.reprap/Canned_G_Codes'''.<br />
<br />
=== InterLayerCooling=true ===<br />
<br />
Setting this true causes RepRap to turn on the cooling fan between layers to freeze/set the build material being used. See Extruder0_CoolingPeriod(s) below. It also has the effect of causing the machine to re-zero itself in X and Y between each layer. This is a good idea, so - if you don't want cooling, still set this true but set the cooling period negative. <br />
<br />
=== MaxXYAcceleration(mm/minute/minute)=1200000 ===<br />
<br />
This is the maximum rate at which the machine can accelerate horizontally (i.e. in X and Y). As G Codes are in mm/minute, this is in the rather eccentric unit of mm/minute<sup>2</sup>. If you want to run at constant speed, or you have RepRap firmware that does not support accelerations, setting this negative will turn off XY accelerations for the whole machine (regardless of the similar values for the extruders - see below).<br />
<br />
When this is positive, the software generates G-codes that treat the feedrate as just another dimension. That is to say, it generates code like this:<br />
<br />
<tt>G1 X23.9 Y39.0 Z0.2526 E66.5 F1500.0 ;print segment</tt><br />
<br />
<tt>G1 X23.9 Y39.7 Z0.2526 E67.2 F3000.0 ;print segment</tt><br />
<br />
So, for example, the second line is saying move 0.7mm in Y from where you last were, extrude 0.7mm of filament during the move, and accelerate from 1500.0 mm/minute to 3000.0 mm/minute while doing so. To make a movement at constant speed, simply set the feedrate first:<br />
<br />
<tt>G1 F1500.0 ;set feedrate</tt><br />
<br />
<tt>G1 X23.9 Y39.7 Z0.2526 E67.2;print segment</tt><br />
<br />
This would do exactly the same movement and extrusion, but at a constant feedrate of 1500 mm/minute.<br />
<br />
=== MaxZAcceleration(mm/minute/minute)=3000 ===<br />
<br />
This is the maximum rate at which the machine can accelerate vertically (i.e. in Z). As G Codes are in mm/minute, this is in the rather eccentric unit of mm/minute<sup>2</sup>. If you want to run at constant speed, or you have RepRap firmware that does not support accelerations, setting this negative will turn off Z accelerations for the whole machine.<br />
<br />
=== MaximumFeedrateX(mm/minute)=3000 ===<br />
<br />
The fastest speed that the X axis can be driven at without stalling or missing steps. <br />
<br />
=== MaximumFeedrateY(mm/minute)=3000 ===<br />
<br />
The fastest speed that the Y axis can be driven at without stalling or missing steps. <br />
<br />
=== MaximumFeedrateZ(mm/minute)=50 ===<br />
<br />
The fastest speed that the Z axis can be driven at without stalling or missing steps. Note, if you're experimenting, that moving up against gravity is harder than moving down, which will lead to a slower value. Use that. <br />
<br />
=== NumberOfExtruders=3 ===<br />
<br />
How many extruders are in use. Note that you can use the same extruder more than once. That is to say you can copy all the parameters of Extruder0 (say), call them Extruder1, and edit them to get different behavior (leaving the address the same - see below). Then you can flip between the two when you load objects to build. <br />
<br />
=== PathOptimise=false ===<br />
<br />
This takes more time over computing the movement of the RepRap machine when generating GCode files so that when the movements are actually executed in the machine they run faster. In particular, it attempts to reduce in-air movements. If you just want to print a one-off of something, set this false. If you're going to print the same file lots of times, set it true.<br />
<br />
=== Port(name)=/dev/ttyUSB0 ===<br />
<br />
The port on the host computer that is connected to the RepRap machine. On Linux machines this will be something like /dev/ttyUSB0, on Windows it will be something like COM5. Be careful that there is no trailing or leading blank spaces in the port name, because it will make the port not recognize.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== RepRapAccelerations=false ===<br />
<br />
If false, G Codes have the required Feed rate associated with them, and it is up to the firmware to compute accelerations and decelerations.<br />
<br />
If true, the host code computes accelerations and outputs them as F values in G codes. These F values are expected to be linearly interpolated to achieve the accelerations required.<br />
<br />
=== Shield=true ===<br />
<br />
When set true, this causes a wiper shield to be built alongside the parts being laid down. If the write head returns to the origin between layers, then this shield tends to remove any dribble from the nozzle before the nozzle starts laying down the part itself. Allow a blank space of 6mm in X and Y between the origin and the southwest corner of the object(s) being built for the shield to be constructed in.<br />
<br />
=== SlowXYFeedrate(mm/minute)=1500.0 ===<br />
<br />
When accelerating in X and Y, this decides what speed the machine can do as a standing start. That is to say, at this speed the steppers won't lose steps if they just start running. Thus it is also the speed at which the machine goes round a right-angled corner, for example (as that stops X and starts Y, or vice versa). <br />
<br />
=== SlowZFeedrate(mm/minute)=5.0 ===<br />
<br />
When accelerating in Z, this decides what speed the machine can do as a standing start. That is to say, at this speed the steppers won't lose steps if they just start running.<br />
<br />
=== StartRectangle=true ===<br />
<br />
If this is true a print will start by plotting a rectangle on the bed around everything that will be printed. This serves to purge the nozzle. If it is false then the extruder will purge at the defined purge position instead.<br />
<br />
=== WorkingX(mm)=200, WorkingY(mm)=200, WorkingZ(mm)=140 ===<br />
<br />
The lengths of movement in the three directions.<br />
<br />
= Extruder Preferences =<br />
<br />
[[File:extruder-preferences.png|right|700px]]<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_Address=0 ===<br />
<br />
The address of the extruder. These addresses are used by the RepRap firmware to decide what physical device the host is talking to.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ArcCompensationFactor(0..)=8 ===<br />
<br />
When the extruder moves in an arc, too much material is laid down on the inside, and not enough on the outside. See [http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/ArcCompensation this page] for an explanation of what this does. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ArcShortSides(0..)=1 ===<br />
<br />
When the extruder moves in an arc, too much material is laid down on the inside, and not enough on the outside. See [[ArcCompensation|this page]] for an explanation of what this does.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ColourB(0..1)=0.6, Extruder0_ColourG(0..1)=0.3, Extruder0_ColourR(0..1)=0.3 ===<br />
<br />
The colour of objects made by the material in this extruder in the graphics window. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_CoolingPeriod(s)=0.1 ===<br />
<br />
The time to turn the cooling fan on between layers. Set this negative to suppress cooling between layers. See InterLayerCooling above.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_EvenHatchDirection(degrees)=45 ===<br />
<br />
The angle in degrees to use to infill even-numbered layers. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ExtrudeRatio(0..)=1 ===<br />
<br />
If you are using the 4D firmware, this decides how much extrudate actually to lay down for a given movement. Thus if you set this to 0.7 and the head moves 100mm, then 70mm of extrudate will be deposited in that move. You can use this to control how fat or thin the extrudate trail is, though the machine should be set up so that this factor is 1.0. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ExtrusionBroadWidth(mm)=2.0 ===<br />
<br />
The gap between the infill zig-zag pattern used to fill the interior of an object when coarse infill is being used. Set this negative to suppress coarse infill. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ExtrusionDelayForLayer(ms)=600 ===<br />
<br />
For the first use of the extruder in a layer the time delay between turning on the extruder motor and starting to move the extruder to lay down material. See also ValveDelayForLayer (below). <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ExtrusionDelayForPolygon(ms)=500 ===<br />
<br />
For the second and all subsequent use of the extruder in a layer the time delay between turning on the extruder motor and starting to move the extruder to lay down material. See also ValveDelayForPolygon (below). <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ExtrusionFoundationWidth(mm)=2 ===<br />
<br />
The gap between the infill zig-zag pattern used to fill the interior of the foundations (if any). <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ExtrusionHeight(mm)=0.24 ===<br />
<br />
The depth of each layer. Different extruders can have different depths; see [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software#Microlayering|Microlayering]].<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ExtrusionInfillWidth(mm)=0.6 ===<br />
<br />
The gap between the infill zig-zag pattern used to fill the interior of an object when fine infill is being used. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ExtrusionLastFoundationWidth(mm)=2 ===<br />
<br />
The gap between the infill zig-zag pattern used to fill the interior of the last layer of the foundations (if any). <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ExtrusionOverRun(mm)=-1 ===<br />
<br />
The distance before the end of a sequence of infill or outline depositions to turn off the extruder motor. See also ValveOverRun (below). Set this negative to keep running to the end. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ExtrusionPWM(0..1)=-1 ===<br />
<br />
This controls the current to the extruder stepper motor, and hence its power. It sets the PWM ratio for the drive electronics. A value of 1 gives maximum current (be very careful not to burn out motors and control electronics with high values). A value of 0 disables the motor. If you set this to -1 (the default) then the motor uses the extruder's on-board potentiometer to set its current. Once again, be careful of turning this up too high (clockwise).<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ExtrusionSize(mm)=0.7 ===<br />
<br />
The width of the filament laid down by the extruder. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ExtrusionSpeed(mm/minute)=3000 ===<br />
<br />
This sets the rate at which the extrudate exits the nozzle in millimeters per minute when the extruder is running in thin air (i.e. not building, or running the delay at the start of a layer or polygon - see above). <br />
<br />
''Legacy. On PIC-based extruders it sets the PWM signal to send the extruder motor, as a fraction of 255. See also Extruder0_t0 (below).'' <br />
<br />
In either case, if there is no motor in use, set this negative. <br />
<br />
''Legacy. On earlier extruders it sets the PWM signal to send the extruder motor, as a fraction of 255. See also Extruder0_t0 (below).'' <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ExtrusionTemp(C)=190 ===<br />
<br />
The temperature to run the extruder at. 190<sup>o</sup>C is a good temperature for polylactic acid. For ABS use 240<sup>o</sup>C.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_FastEFeedrate(mm/minute)=8000.0 ===<br />
<br />
When the extruder reverses to retracts its filament (and moves forward from a retraction) there is almost no resistance to the filament's movement, so it can move fast. This is the speed to use for these. See also Extruder0_Reverse(ms).<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_FastXYFeedrate(mm/minute)=3000.0 ===<br />
<br />
The fastest that this extruder can plot. This is the speed that the system will accelerate writing up to when accelerations are enabled. The system takes the minimum of this vale and the equivalent value for the machine overall when extruding.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_FeedDiameter(mm)=1.75 ===<br />
<br />
This sets the diameter of the filament being fed into the extruder. When E codes are output, they will be in lengths of this feedstock filament; the nozzle (in general being smaller than the filament) will output proportionately more. If you set this negative, E codes will be output as lengths of extrudate out of the nozzle.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_InFillMaterialType(name)=PLA-infill ===<br />
<br />
The name of the extruder material to use for infill. This is commonly the same actual extruder used for the outline shell, but this separate logical extruder allows you to set different parameters for infill and outline. Or you can outline in one material and infill with another, of course. You can make an outline material simply name itself as its own infill. To suppress infill altogether (so you just get a shell round the outside) set the infill material name to "null" without the quotes.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_InfillOverlap(mm)=0.2 ===<br />
<br />
The amount to make the infill and outline overlap. This causes the two to weld together. You can set it negative and make a gap instead. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_InfillSpeed(0..1)=1 ===<br />
<br />
The fraction of the fastest extruder XY speed to do the infill at. See also FastXYFeedrate (above). <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_Lift(mm)=0 ===<br />
<br />
When doing in-air non-extruding movements, lift the extruder by this distance above the surface being created. This will slow building down, and is not normally needed<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_MaterialType(name)=PLA ===<br />
<br />
The name of the material in use. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_MaxAcceleration(mm/minute/minute)=1200000.0 ===<br />
<br />
The fastest acceleration that this extruder can handle. Set this negative if the extruder must write at a constant speed. The system takes the minimum of this value and the equivalent value for the machine overall when extruding.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_MiddleStart=true ===<br />
<br />
When set true, this causes the system to start plotting outline patterns around objects from in the middle of their hatch infill, using a few of the hatch lines to do this. At the end of the outline, the head moves back to the start point. This means that the outline is clean, without dribble at the start and end. That happens in the middle of the solid, where it usually doesn't matter. Setting this false suppresses this behaviour, and the outlines are plotted as-is.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_NumberOfShells(0..N)=1 ===<br />
<br />
Normally (when this is 1) RepRap puts one outline round each layer before infilling it. You can create multiple outlines (or none) by changing this value.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_OddHatchDirection(degrees)=-45 ===<br />
<br />
The angle in degrees to use to infill odd-numbered layers. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_OffsetX(mm)=0, Extruder0_OffsetY(mm)=0, Extruder0_OffsetZ(mm)=0 ===<br />
<br />
The offset of the extruder from (0, 0, 0) when the extruder is parked in X and Y. This is used to get multiple extruders in registration. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_OutlineSpeed(0..1)=0.9 ===<br />
<br />
The fraction of the fastest extruder XY speed to do the outline at. See also FastXYFeedrate (above). <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_Purge(ms)=10000 ===<br />
<br />
The time to run the extruder to purge it. This happens at the dump location (see above). Setting this negative will suppress purging at the start of a build, in which case the first layer of the build will have a small "L" shape laid down to the bottom left of the build to clear the nozzle.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_Reverse(ms)=400 ===<br />
<br />
The time to reverse the extruder motor when it is turned off, drawing the extrudate back into it and reducing dribble.<br />
<br />
<!-- === Extruder0_ReversePlot=false ===<br />
<br />
If Extruder0_ExtrusionOverRun(mm) is positive, setting this true causes the extruder to reverse to the end of the polygon, as opposed to just stopping before the end.<br />
--><br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_SlowXYFeedrate(mm/minute)=1500.0 ===<br />
<br />
The speed that the machine can do a standing start from when using this extruder. That is, turning on the X and/or Y steppers at this speed will not lose steps. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_SupportMaterialType(name)=PLA-support ===<br />
<br />
The name of the material to use to support overhangs made from this material. You can set this the same as the material itself, then it will use the material to support itself. But - even if you want this - you will probably want different parameters (such as infill width) for the support build. To do this just copy all the material extruder's parameters, changing the extruder number and material name. You will then have two logical extruders driving the same physical extruder and can set their parameters as differently as you like.<br />
<br />
If you don't want support material to be used at all under overhangs for this material, set Extruder0_SupportMaterialType(name)=null.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_SurfaceLayers(0..N)=2 ===<br />
<br />
This decides how many layers to fine-infill for areas that are upward- or downward-facing surfaces of the object.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ValveDelayForLayer(ms)=200 ===<br />
<br />
For extruders with valves. For the first use of the extruder in a layer the time delay between opening the extruder valve and starting to move the extruder to lay down material. See also ExtrusionDelayForLayer (above). <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ValveDelayForPolygon(ms)=200 ===<br />
<br />
For the second and all subsequent use of the extruder in a layer the time delay between opening the extruder valve and starting to move the extruder to lay down material. See also ExtrusionDelayForPolygon (above). <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ValveOverRun(mm)=-1 ===<br />
<br />
The distance before the end of a sequence of infill or outline depositions to close the extruder valve. See also ExtrusionOverRun (above). Set this negative to run to the end. <br />
<br />
=== Extruder0_ValvePulseTime(ms)=-500 ===<br />
<br />
The time to pulse the valve to open or close it. Set this negative if no valve is in use. <br />
<br />
<br />
= Legacy Preferences =<br />
<br />
Go to the [[Java Software Legacy Preferences]] page for a list of things that used to be preferences, but now no longer are.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Software]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Keypad&diff=85166Keypad2013-03-07T12:31:40Z<p>Ipinson: /* How to use it */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Keypad<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = keypad.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Upgrade your printer with a keypad<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = Brupje<br />
|reprap = <br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]],[[:Category:Prusa_Mendel Development|Prusa development]][[Category:Prusa Development]], [[:Category:Mendel Development|Mendel Development]][[Category:Mendel Development]]<br />
|cadModel = <br />
|url = <br />
}}<br />
<br />
= Description =<br />
The keypad is designed by Bart Meijer of Reprapworld.com. It's an advanced keypad that you can hook up to your printer. You do want to have a LCD to go along with this keypad, you can see instruction for that here: http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_LCD<br />
<br />
Features:<br />
* 9-buttons to control your printer: Left, right, up, down, mid, 3 function keys ( F1,F2,F3 ), enter<br />
* a rotary encoder<br />
* D66 and D65 are broken out<br />
* Hooks up easily to your RAMPS AUX-2 port<br />
* 41 x 109mm board<br />
* Cool black design<br />
* screw holes to mount the board<br />
<br />
= Where to get it =<br />
<br />
# [http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=202&cPath=1591_1626 ReprapWorld.com]<br />
<br />
= How to build it =<br />
<br />
Requirements:<br />
* 1x Keypad PCB<br />
* 9x Tactile switch<br />
* 8x 10K resistor<br />
* 1x 2x5 Header<br />
* Shift register CD74HCT<br />
* 1x Rotary Encoder<br />
<br />
Daniel Åkesson did make a casing for the keypad [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24660 here]].<br />
<br />
[[Image:holder.jpg]]<br />
<br />
1. Solder the 10K resistors, direction doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Step_1.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
2. Solder the Shift register, make sure the orientation is as on the picture.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Step_2.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
2. Solder the tactile switches, direction doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Step_3.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
4. Solder the 2x5 Header on JP1, direction doesn't matter. <br />
<br />
[[Image:Step_4.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
6. Solder the rotary encoder, will fit in only one direction. <br />
<br />
[[Image:Step_5.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
= How to use it =<br />
<br />
Hook it up to your RAMPS AUX-2 port. Configure your firmware to use the keypad. Currently no firmware will fully support it, the normal Marlin firmware will partially support it however. [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga]Also a development was started to fully support it in Marlin: [[File:Marlin.zip]], but this needs a lot of work.<br />
<br />
1. If your RAMPS board was produced without, you will need to solder a 2x5 header on the AUX-2 port of the RAMPS.<br />
<br />
[[Image:keypad1.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
2. Create a cable and put it on the keypad<br />
<br />
[[Image:keypad2.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
3. Put the other end to the RAMPS board. Make sure to put it on correctly, pin 1 on the AUX-2 is the same as pin 1 on the JP1 of the keypad. So if you align the RAMPS and keypad, you should have a straight cable.<br />
<br />
[[Image:keypad3.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
4. Get the encoder and enter key working in Marlin<br />
<br />
a. Adjust configuration.h<br />
<br />
Uncomment line 228: <br />
#define ULTRA_LCD //general lcd support, also 16x2<br />
<br />
Uncomment line 232:<br />
#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse<br />
<br />
Uncomment line 242:<br />
#define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel<br />
<br />
b. Edit pins.h<br />
<br />
For MOTHERBOARD == 33 (RAMPS) locate the following line:<br />
#define BTN_EN1 37<br />
#define BTN_EN2 35<br />
#define BTN_ENC 31 //the click<br />
<br />
Update them to:<br />
#define BTN_EN1 64<br />
#define BTN_EN2 59<br />
#define BTN_ENC 63 //the click<br />
<br />
That should enable you to use the menu system in Marlin with the encoder and enter button.<br />
<br />
= Resources =<br />
<br />
PCB [[Image:pcb.jpg]]<br />
<br />
DesignSpark PCB [[File:keypad.pcb]]<br />
<br />
DesignSpark Schematic [[File:keypad.sch]]<br />
<br />
Schematic (PDF) [[File:Schematic.pdf]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRap_en_Portuguesa&diff=85165RepRap en Portuguesa2013-03-07T12:31:30Z<p>Ipinson: /* Local Suppliers */</p>
<hr />
<div>This will be in Portuguese once someone who speaks Portuguese fixes it.<br />
<div id="mainPage.news" style="border: solid 1px #aaaaaa; padding: 0px;"><br />
<h2 id="mainPage.news.title" style="background:#eeeeee; font-size: 105%; line-height: 120%; font-weight: bold; padding: 0px; margin:0px;padding: 0.4em;"><br />
[[Image:20px-Exquisite-khelpcenter.png|frameless|right]]Forum/Mailing List</h2><br />
<div id="mainPage.news.text" style="padding:0px 10px 10px;"><br />
{{#widget:Feed<br />
|feedurl=http://forums.reprap.org/feed.php?142,replies=1,type=rss<br />
|chan=n<br />
|num=5<br />
|desc=0<br />
|date=y<br />
|targ=n<br />
}}<br />
</div><br />
</div><br />
<br />
=Please Log In and Edit=<br />
<br />
=Translation=<br />
*[[RepRapWiki:Translations]]<br />
*[[YourLanguage]]<br />
<br />
=Meetings=<br />
==Location==<br />
RepRap [[Map]] link.<br />
<br />
==Time==<br />
7pm Tuesday every other week, starting with the second Tuesday in January.<br />
<br />
=Official Mailing List and Forum=<br />
'''The forum is the official mailing list!'''<br />
http://dev.forums.reprap.org/index.php?19<br />
<br />
=Nearest Neighboring RepRap User Groups=<br />
*http://forums.reprap.org/index.php?19<br />
*[[Category:RUG]]<br />
*[[Map]]<br />
<br />
=Nearby Robot Hobby Clubs=<br />
* local First Robotics Competition<br />
* local [[RoboOne]] and [[Robot]] hobby group.<br />
<br />
=Geek Groups Meetups=<br />
(keywords: your town, artist-run center, artbot, barcamp, dorkbot, experimental media, ham radio, linux, arduino, blender, circuit bending, RC aircraft, rocketry, cnc, etc.)<br />
This will require a few google searches, where you enter your town and one of the keywords above into the following string:<br />
"Your Town" keyword (meetup OR meeting OR group OR club OR society OR workshop OR hobby)<br />
[dorkbot.org]<br />
[www.arduino.cc]<br />
<br />
* Local/Nearest FabLab or Techshop, <br />
<br />
* Community College with a Machine Shop that people can use?<br />
<br />
* CNC Group Meetups on cnczone.com or otherwise<br />
[www.google.ca]<br />
<br />
=Official RepRap Suppliers=<br />
*http://dev.forums.reprap.org/index.php?93<br />
*[[Suppliers]]<br />
<br />
=Local Suppliers=<br />
Local Shops may be better or worse than buying from online retailers. This depends on your local shops and what you're getting. Stepper motors you'll want to get online [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga], steel rod - perhaps not. Fasteners, it depends. You may want to check your yellow pages to look these up, as opposed to online.<br />
<br />
* Local Steel Suppliers (e.g. Construction suppliers)<br />
<br />
* Local Bearing Suppliers (Skateboard Shop)<br />
<br />
* Local Fastener Suppliers<br />
<br />
* Local Electronics Suppliers<br />
http://www.digikey.com/<br />
<br />
* Local Machine Tool/Industrial Supply, (Occasionally unwelcome to hobbyists, but who knows?)<br />
<br />
* Local Electronics Surplus Shop<br />
You may want to check:<br />
http://www.repairfaq.org<br />
<br />
* Local Jeweler's Supply Shop<br />
(For all those tiny drill bits for the nozzles.)<br />
<br />
=Members=<br />
*[[User:Example User]]<br />
*[[User:Example User]]<br />
*<br />
*<br />
<br />
[[Category:RUG]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Commissioning&diff=85164Commissioning2013-03-07T12:31:20Z<p>Ipinson: /* calculated calibration */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Template:Mendel Documentation Header}}<br />
{{merge|RepRapSoftwareTweakingManual}}<br />
<br />
== Calibrating the X, Y, Z axis ==<br />
<br />
The RepRap firmware contains hints to calculate the correct step settings by hand, or use this [http://calculator.josefprusa.cz/ online calculator] to help.<br />
<br />
See also [[calibration]].<br />
<br />
== Calibrating the Extruder ==<br />
<br />
<br />
In the motherboard firmware, you must edit the '''E_STEPS_PER_MM''' value in the configuration.h file in order to have your RepRap/RepStrap working correctly.<br />
* ''(if you only see a configuration.h.dist, copy it to configuration.h)''<br />
<br />
'''E_STEPS_PER_MM'''<br />
is the number of steps of the extruder motor needed for the nozzle to extrude the "right" amount of plastic out for every 1mm the print head moves horizontally.<br />
<br />
If you have a 5mm splined shaft, with no gearbox, on a motor with a 1.8 degree step, and 3mm feedstock, a good starting point is:<br />
<br />
#define E_STEPS_PER_MM 0.706<br />
<br />
If you have a 3/16" splined shaft, with no gearbox, on a motor with a 1.8 degree step, and 3mm feedstock, a good starting point is<br />
<br />
#define E_STEPS_PER_MM 0.743<br />
<br />
Some slicing software, (e.g.: [[SLIC3R]], or ) uses E_STEPS_PER_MM (or E_STEPS_PER_M for [[Teacup]]) as a measure of the input feedstock consumed rather than as a measure of filament to be extruded. This is relatively easy to measure and calibrate. See [[Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide#E_steps]] or http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html for an example. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== empirical calibration ===<br />
<br />
Sometimes the extruder dumps out plastic so thick that, after putting down one layer, the nozzle digs into the plastic of that layer while trying to put down the next layer.<br />
When that happens, you need to reduce the E_STEPS_PER_MM.<br />
<br />
Sometimes the extruder trickles out so little plastic that, after putting down one layer, the next layer of plastic is "stretched" so thin that cups are not water-tight.<br />
When that happens, you need to increase the E_STEPS_PER_MM.<br />
<br />
If your test looks good, you are done building the Mendel -- yay!<br />
Skip the rest of this page and go right to [[Mendel User Manual | How to use Mendel]].<br />
<br />
=== calculated calibration ===<br />
<br />
In principle, it should be possible to calculate a estimate for E_STEPS_PER_MM that is very close to the correct value.<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' This equation was derived assuming either the old RepRap Host or Skeinforge. I do not know if it still works for the official host as RepSnapper now seems to be [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] the standard for Windows users.<br />
If you are plannin on using Skeinforge 40 or above, I suggest you try the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Volumetric_Dimension_settings Volumetric Dimension Settings] on the wiki.<br />
<br />
* feedstock diameter (typically 3 mm)<br />
* Nozzle Diameter (typically 0.5 mm)<br />
* Pinch Wheel Diameter (typically 5 mm)<br />
* Steps for stepper to make one complete revolution (typically "400 steps" for a stepper with 200 "full steps" per revolution driven with a half-stepper drive; often "3200 steps" for a stepper with 200 "full steps" per revolution with a 16x microstepper drive)<br />
* gearbox ratio ( typically "1" for direct-drive pinch wheels; often "39/11" for [[Wade's Geared Extruder]] or "59/11" for [[Geared Nema17 Extruder Driver | Adrian's Geared Extruder]])<br />
<br />
(You'll still need to do some empirical tweaking, but hopefully you start out so close to the correct value that you'll only need to do a couple of test runs).<br />
<br />
From this, we can calculate the number of steps per mm of feedstock:<br />
<br />
* steps for pinch wheel to make one complete revolution = steps for stepper to make one complete revolution * gearbox ratio (typically 400 steps)<br />
* pinch wheel circumference = pinch wheel diameter * pi <br />
* steps_per_mm_of_feedstock = steps for pinch wheel to make one complete revolution /( pinch wheel circumference ). (typically 25.46 steps/mm)<br />
<br />
We can also calculate other values that a few people find interesting:<br />
<br />
* cross-sectional area of feedstock = pi * (feedstock diameter / 2)^2 (this is about 7.07 mm^2 for 3 mm feedstock)<br />
* steps_per_cubic_mm = steps_per_mm_of_feedstock / cross-sectional area of feedstock (this is typically about 3.60 steps/mm^3)<br />
* desired cross-sectional area of extruded plastic = pi * (Nozzle diameter / 2)^2. (This is typically 0.196 mm^2. See below for refinements on this formula).<br />
<br />
(Is there a good way to measure steps_per_mm_of_feedstock directly? Then we don't need to worry about how deep the teeth on the pinch wheel bite into the feedstock.)<br />
(Is there a good way to measure steps_per_cubic_mm directly?)<br />
<br />
Adrian B. used the formula:<br />
<br />
<math>\frac{1}{\frac{\pi\varnothing_{pw}}{Steps_{360}}.Ratio_{Nozzle to feedstock}}</math><br />
<br />
or in other words<br />
<br />
E_STEPS_PER_MM ~~ steps_per_mm_of_feedstock * nozzle_diameter / feedstock_diameter.<br />
<br />
which no one seems to understand, and we will say no more about it.<br />
<br />
Where as in the recent blog post the formula is<br />
((link???))<br />
<br />
<math>\frac{\varnothing _{Nozzle}^2 . Steps_{360}.Ratio_{gearbox}}{\varnothing _{Filament}^2. \pi . \varnothing_{pw}}</math><br />
<br />
or in other words<br />
<br />
E_STEPS_PER_MM ~~ steps_per_mm_of_feedstock * (nozzle_diameter)^2 / (feedstock_diameter)^2.<br />
<br />
Grogyan came up with another way of stating the same formula<br />
(link: [http://grogyans-world.blogspot.com/2010/07/tweaking-extruder.html]; [http://www.brokentoaster.com/blog/?p=358])<br />
<br />
<math>\left(\frac{\textrm{Steps}_{360} \times \textrm{Ratio}_{gearbox}} { \pi \phi_{pw}}\right) \times \left(\frac{\phi_{nozzle}}{ \phi_{filament}}\right)^2</math><br />
<br />
or in other words<br />
<br />
E_STEPS_PER_MM ~~ steps_per_mm_of_feedstock * (nozzle_diameter / feedstock_diameter)^2<br />
<br />
Essentially what is happening is having the ratio of feedstock and nozzle squared, multiplied by the arc of one step of the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
This is equivalent to<br />
<br />
E_STEPS_PER_MM ~~ steps_per_cubic_mm * desired cross-sectional area of extruded plastic.<br />
<br />
With the above typical values, this gives about 0.707 Esteps/mm of nozzle travel, close to the empirically derived value above.<br />
<br />
''Note to self add a method of putting values on this page and output the correct value.''<br />
<br />
=== open questions ===<br />
<br />
Some people argue that this equation is still not quite correct -- it is a mere coincidence that this equation happens to give a good result in this particular case.<br />
* the nozzle diameter has no effect on the volume of plastic extruded. Why do we need the nozzle diameter in this formula?<br />
* this formula assumes that the plastic (or frosting or whatever) does not change in density -- i.e., it is incompressible and has no thermal expansion.<br />
* this formula seems to assume that the output has the same diameter of the nozzle, whereas real plastic immediately expands ([[filament#Die swell and Stretching |"die swell"]]). Some people have reported[http://www.brokentoaster.com/blog/?p=358&cpage=1#comment-83] "if the nozzle is 0.5mm the extruded plastic will come out at ~0.7mm or maybe 0.8mm (depending on the type of plastic used)".<br />
** Does the length of the small-bore section of the nozzle affect how much the extruded plastic swells?<br />
** some measurements of extruded output diameter vs. "output rate" on a single fixed nozzle: [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2007/09/equations-of-extrusion.html]<br />
* this formula seems to assume that the output is a perfect cylinder, but (except for the occasional "dx=0, dy=0, dz= +1 layer up" moves) the output plastic ends up squashed in a more complex cross-section shape roughly 1 layer thick. Why is the layer thickness missing from this formula?<br />
** Do we need to worry about sparse infill being close to circular cross section, while packed "solid" parts are closer to a rectangular cross section? nophead[http://www.brokentoaster.com/blog/?p=358] uses a squashed ellipse in his calculations.<br />
* How does this related to the [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Skeinforge_Fill#Infill_Perimeter_Overlap_.28ratio.29 "Infill Perimeter Overlap (ratio)"]<br />
<br />
<br />
Some people suggest that E_STEPS_PER_MM should be replaced by a more useful term, such as E_STEPS_PER_CUBIC_MM or StepsPerMM3Extruded, calibrated for extruded output volume after cooling (approximately equal to input feedstock volume).<br />
(The [[3D-to-5D-Gcode.php]] would also need to be updated<br />
so that both the host and the firmware use the same interpretation of the G code E axis).<br />
<br />
<br />
Other people argue that this sort of thing shouldn't be in the firmware at all[http://reprap.org/pipermail/reprap-dev/2010-October/001661.html]. Since the feedstock filament diameter varies from one spool to the next (*),<br />
it would be nice if the host software (or perhaps a setting in EEPROM) could somehow compensate for this rather than having to re-flash the firmware every time you get a new spool of feedstock filament.<br />
Some people would like to vary the width of the extrusion in different areas of a single printed part.<br />
<br />
(*) There are reports of nominally "3 mm" feedstock filament varying from 2.8 mm to 3.1 mm diameter from one spool to another.<br />
<br />
Personal thanks to for enabling formulas to be put into wiki's<br />
<br />
[http://www.sitmo.com/latex/ sitmo] for their equation editor<br />
<br />
[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Formula Formula Help] for the correct syntax<br />
<br />
[[Category:How to make Mendel]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Watson&diff=85161Watson2013-03-07T12:30:02Z<p>Ipinson: /* Motors */</p>
<hr />
<div><includeonly><br />
{{#widget:if|a={{{status|Unknown}}}|b=Unknown|then=<style>.devBox{background-color:#CCCCCC;}</style>}}<br />
{{#widget:if|a={{{status|Unknown}}}|b=Abandoned|then=<style>.devBox{background-color:#000000;}</style>}}<br />
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[[Image:Crystal Clear action run.png|left|40px]] <span style="font-size: 130%;">{{{name|{{PAGENAME}}}}}</span><br /><br />
Release status: {{{status|unknown}}}[[Category:{{{status|Unknown status}}} developments]]<br />
<div style="background-color: white; margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px; padding-top: 5px; color: black; font-weight: normal;"><br />
[[Image:{{{image|No image available.png}}}|center|190px]]<br />
{|-<br />
| style="vertical-align: top" | '''Description''' || {{{description|none}}}<br />
|-<br />
| style="vertical-align: top" | '''License''' || {{{license|GPL 2.0}}}<br />
|-<br />
| style="vertical-align: top" | '''Author''' || [[User:{{{author|Yourusernamehere}}}|{{{author|YourusernameHere}}}]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="vertical-align: top" | '''Based-on''' || [[{{{reprap|(nothing)}}}]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="vertical-align: top" | '''Categories''' || {{{categories|none}}}<br />
|-<br />
| style="vertical-align: top" | '''CAD Model(s)''' || {{{cadModel|none}}}<br />
|-<br />
| style="vertical-align: top" | '''External Link''' || {{{url|none}}}<br />
|}<br />
</div><br />
</div><br />
</includeonly><br />
<noinclude><br />
<br />
{{Development:Stub}}<br />
{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Watson<br />
|status = concept<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = watson_0.01.jpeg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = The Watson RepRap maximizes build envelope and improved printer mechanics.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = Jazzymt<br />
|reprap = Original design<br />
|categories = <br />
|cadModel = <br />
|url = <br />
}}<br />
<br />
= Watson RepRap =<br />
<br />
The Watson reprap represents a significant departure from existing printer designs in that it attempts to achieve some uniquely different goals. Primarily, the Watson is designed to be rigid and scalable. Rather than taking a "barn raising" approach to build the frame which then requires numerous adjustments and measurements to achieve good perpendicularity, it relies on a single accurate component (the base plate) and builds from the ground up. Additionally it reduces frame flex and vibration through careful component relocation and mechanical design. By relocating the Y axis via. a gantry-type design, it also maximizes build envelope for a given size printer and no components move beyond its static footprint (making it more desk-friendly). Ideally it should be robust and easier to build than current designs, but likely that will take some design iteration to get right and is not the primary focus.<br />
<br />
==Design Changes==<br />
The Watson reprap attempts to achieve its design goals via several specific departures from existing printers.<br />
<br />
=== Frame ===<br />
Perhaps the most defining feature of the Watson reprap is the central baseplate. It is relatively simple given minimal tools and materials to either buy or fabricate a flat plate with good perpendicularity on the sides - whether made of wood, plastic or metal. All components are mounted off this one part and by leveraging the simple accuracy of this one component - the overall frame should be stronger, more accurate and simpler to verify than the complex, spindly truss frames of other printers. Perpendicularity in at least X & Y axes is more reliable because there are fewer components and points of variance between this plate and the motion of the axis. The potential for twist in the frame is dramatically reduced and wherever possible a focus on increasing torsional rigidity has been made to reduce "tower shake".<br />
<br />
=== Motors ===<br />
Several existing designs transmit the stresses of the motors through the least supported elements of the frame (ie., X & Y motion). In very small design packages, the strain induced by these motions may be acceptably small - especially at low speeds. As the size of the frame is increase and/or motor acceleration is pushed to the limit, these deflections become considerable and affect both print quality and component life [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga]. In the Watson RepRap the location of motors and the forces they transmit are specifically located so that they have the most rigidity and support in the frame.<br />
<br />
=== Motion ===<br />
There are disadvantages to moving all 3 axes together vs. splitting them apart (Y stage + X/Z stage vs. X/Y/Z stage). Namely - the primary axis will be moving considerably more mass. However, the Watson reprap attempts to leverage the advantages as much as possible by rearranging the common components and stiffening the application of & reaction to force. Namely - the Z stage is the least demanding in terms of acceleration and so it is run by a single motor with a belt/pulley system. The Y stage (primary axis) in a gantry setup becomes the most demanding and so the 2nd motor is relocated to this stage to provide maximum acceleration. Intelligent firmware should also be utilized which uses proportional speed control depending on the Z position. For example - at low Z heights, low rotational inertia of the print head can allow higher acceleration while at maximum Z height, lower acceleration may be necessary. This should still net an increase in efficiency since for most parts low heights will equate to more build volume which decreases as the part grows in height (pyramid part geometry).<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Development]]<br />
* [[:Category: Development]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Development]]<br />
</noinclude></div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRapPro_Huxley_heatbed_assembly&diff=85160RepRapPro Huxley heatbed assembly2013-03-07T12:29:36Z<p>Ipinson: /* Heated bed assembly */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|RepRapPro_Huxley_heatbed_assembly}}<br />
{{RepRapPro_Huxley_Contents}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=Goal=<br />
<br />
By the end of this stage, your machine will look like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-heatbed-finished.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
See also [[Huxley_PCB_Heatbed|this wiki page]].<br />
<br />
=Tools=<br />
<br />
*Wire cutters<br />
<br />
*Soldering iron<br />
<br />
*Allen key<br />
<br />
=Heated bed assembly=<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Hardware''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|rowspan="15"|[[File:reprappro-huxley-heatbed-components.jpg|300px]]<br>There should be 6 more washers in this picture<br>[The white splodges are heatsink grease (see below);<br />
we took an assembled bed apart for the picture.]<br />
|-<br />
|Heated bed PCB<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|Aluminium plate <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|MDF insulator <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|Bed springs <br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|3-way screw connector <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|4-way pin header <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|short wire (e.g. clipped resistor lead) <br />
|20mm<br />
|-<br />
|M3x35mm screw <br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|M3x8mm screw <br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nylock nut <br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nut <br />
|6<br />
|-<br />
|M3 washer <br />
|10<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=2 widths=336px heights=252px><br />
File:reprappro-huxley-heatbed-soldering.jpg|Start by soldering the connectors in place. The wire holes on the screw connector face outwards. Also use a length of wire to make a jumper between the left two holes beside the 3-way screw connector. Be particularly careful when soldering the large connector. You need to ensure that there is no dry joint and that there is a reasonable, although no excessive, amount of solder. This connector has to take quite a high current.<br />
File:huxley-pcb-heatbed_jumper-under.jpg|<br />
<br />
File:reprappro-huxley-heatbed-nut-pulling.jpg|Use one of the short screws with a washer under its head to pull the M3 nuts into the three hexagonal recesses in the printed parts of the Y sled.<br />
File:reprappro-huxley-heatbed-stack.jpg|Sandwich the flat components together. This shows them upside down to the way they will be when fitted to the machine.<br />
<br />
File:huxley-pcb-heatbed_stack-exploded.jpg|From the top down in the picture they go: Balsa ply insulator (lasercut lettering downwards, towards PCB), PCB (circuit side down, towards aluminum bed-plate), Aluminium plate.<br />
File:huxley-pcb-heatbed_alu-recess-assembly.jpg|Take care when sandwiching the parts together that the edge of the recess does not hit the thermistor - you don't want [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] to knock it off... '''NOTE : The thermistor should be electrically insulated from the Aluminium plate'''. This can be achieved using a small piece of Kapton tape, or even a short length of PTFE plumber's tape over the thermistor.<br />
<br />
File:Huxley-pcb-heatbed_alu-recess.jpg|The aluminium plate has a recess in the centre to accommodate the tiny surface mount thermistor in the middle of the PCB. You can put heat-sink grease in that recess to improve the thermal contact between the thermistor and the aluminium plate if you like.<br />
File:huxley-pcb-heatbed_heatsink-grease.jpg|If you have plenty of heatsink grease, you can also put some on the rest of the pcb.<br />
<br />
File:Huxley-pcb-heatbed_alu-hole-tapered.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Now may be a good time to consider [[RepRapPro Huxley printing#Huxley_Kapton_tape_on_the_bed|applying Kapton tape to the surface of the printer bed]]. <br />
<br />
Put washers under the heads of the four short M3 screws and screw them through the stack to hold it together. '''Don't do the screws up so tight that they project through the aluminium plate.''' The ends of the screws need to be just below the plane of the top of the plate. If they project, put extra washers under their heads.<br />
<br />
Put the long screws through the holes in the PCB, put on washers, drop the springs onto them, put on three more washers (one per screw), and put the M3 nuts on by about 10mm to hold the springs.<br />
<br />
Use the screws to attach the heated bed to the machine. Screw the screws into the nylock nuts until the bed is secure and roughly level. Then loosely run the nuts down the screws (relaxing the springs) until they meet the printed parts of the Y sled. Tighten them gently against the sled.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-heatbed-attached.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
(To level the bed accurately later, you will slacken those nuts, adjust the screws in the nylocks, then tighten the nuts again.)<br />
<br />
If you find that the springs are a bit weak (and so do not hold the PCB firmly up against the heads of the screws), simply add three extra nuts under the washers on the ends of the springs. Use the top nuts to set the spring compression, and the bottom ones independently to secure the bed.<br />
<br />
You should be able to push the bed down easily with a finger, and it should spring smartly back up again to rest under the screw heads.<br />
<br />
<br />
Carefully run the Y-axis back and forth by turning the toothed pulley on the Y motor by hand. Make sure that nothing hits anything.<br />
<br />
=Next step=<br />
<br />
[[RepRapPro Huxley extruder drive assembly|Extruder drive assembly]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Build_Instructions]]<br />
[[Category:RepRapPro]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Building_A_Stripboard_Comms_Controller&diff=85159Building A Stripboard Comms Controller2013-03-07T12:29:21Z<p>Ipinson: /* Components */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Stripboard Comms Controller<br />
|status = Obsolete<br />
|description = Stripboard Comms Controller<br />
|author = <br />
|reprap = Darwin<br />
|categories = <br />
|url = <br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
= DEPRECIATED! See [[DarwinPowerAndCommunicationsCard|Darwin PowerComs Board]].= <br />
=HOWTO: Building A Stripboard Comms Controller =<br />
<br />
[[Image:CommsController.jpg|px536|Comms board]]<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
The Comms controller is the main interface between the host PC and the rest of the RepStrap or RepRap. See RepStrap for an overview of all the components.<br />
<br />
== Requirements ==<br />
<br />
=== Tools and consumables ===<br />
<br />
* A soldering iron and accessories (see [[Electronics Fabrication Guide|Electronics Fabrication Guide]]).<br />
* Solder<br />
* Electric drill or at least a suitable drill bit<br />
* Some wire for jumpers/links<br />
* Wire strippers<br />
* Small pliers or tweezers<br />
<br />
=== Components ===<br />
<br />
* C1: 100&mu;F eletrolytic capacitor (with a voltage rating of 30V or higher).<br />
* C2-C5: 1&mu;F eletrolytic capacitors (with a voltage rating of 30V or higher).<br />
* U1: MAX-232 or equivalent chip<br />
* U2: 7805 voltage regulator<br />
* Connectors. A simple low cost choice is to use header pins and matching sockets. Try to get keyed pins and sockets that prevent you from putting the connector on backwards, because if you do it will most probably destroy the module and possibly other connected modules. '''Take great care!''' Alternatively, you can directly solder wires into the board after putting the modules on the machine in which case you don't need any connectors. If you use connectors, you need:<br />
** J1: two pin connector (used as a power connector)<br />
** J4: three pin connector (used to connect to the PC serial port)<br />
** J2, J3: four pin connector (used to connect to the network of devices)<br />
* A piece of stripboard with 2.54mm (0.1") spaced continuous track. It should be a minimum of 21 holes along the track direction and 12 holes sideways. It is a good idea to provide some extra space to make screw holes for mounting.<br />
* A female DB9 9-pin serial socket to plug into a PC serial port [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga]. 25 pin connectors can also be used if preferred by making appropriate modifications.<br />
<br />
== Schematic ==<br />
<br />
This is the schematic diagram of the circuit you will be building. See [[reading a schematic|reading a schematic]] to understand the various parts.<br />
<br />
[[Image:comms.png|467px| Comms board schematic ]]<br />
<br />
== Preparing the board ==<br />
<br />
The strips on the back of the board need to be "separated" at certain points. The easiest way to do this is to use a small electric drill with a drill bit around 3-4mm in diameter. Don't drill all the way, just far enough to cut the copper tracks - you may find a 3.5mm drill in a hand-held chuck is easier to control. See the [[Electronics Fabrication Guide|Electronics Fabrication Guide]] for more details.<br />
<br />
This image shows the rear of the stripboard so you can see the points that were separated.<br />
[[Image:CommsStripboardUnder.png|px750|Underside of stripboard]]<br />
<br />
The points marked in black are where you should separate the tracks.<br />
<br />
'''Note: This is the minimum size. It is recommended that you leave sufficient additional space on all sides to allow for easy mounting. Around 20mm will be ample.'''<br />
<br />
'''Important:''' There are some voltages that can and will damage components if you aren't careful. Double and triple check that:<br />
* You have completely separated the necessary tracks. Use a multimeter or continuity checker if you have one.<br />
* You have not connected any two adjacent tracks with shards of copper. It is a good idea to scrape down the channels to ensure there are no fragments. Again, check this with a multimeter or continuity checker.<br />
* When the board is assembled, check that 12V, 5V and ground are not shorting together. Expect some connectivity because of the components, but not a dead short.<br />
* It pays to check that 12V, 5V and ground wire also connect to the relevant pins of the major components before you apply power.<br />
<br />
== Making the board ==<br />
<br />
Solder the components into the board as pictured below. See the [[Electronics Fabrication Guide|Electronics Fabrication Guide]] if you're new to soldering or component placement.<br />
<br />
[[Image:CommsStripboardTop.png|px750|Component side of board]]<br />
<br />
Pay particular attention to:<br />
<br />
* U1 (the MAX-232) chip orientation. The notch should be at the top, as pictured.<br />
* U2, the 7805 voltage regulator. The metal tab should be to the left as pictured.<br />
* The capacitor polarity. Pay attention to the + and - indicators and match the capacitor. There is usually a band down one side of the capacitor that has minus (-) symbols written down it. For capacitors that have a lead out of each end, a dent is usually found on the positive end. Yes, the positive end of C5 is meant to connect to ground (RS232 voltage magic is involved here).<br />
<br />
== Board connections ==<br />
<br />
The connector pins are numbered from the top of the board down, so for example the pin in hole E8 is pin number 1 of connect J4. It is advised that you do not plug and unplug things with the PSU turned on, else the magic smoke sometimes escapes.<br />
<br />
* J1: Power connector<br />
## +12V<br />
## Ground<br />
* J2: Incoming comms<br />
## Comms channel<br />
## +12V<br />
## Ground<br />
## +5V<br />
* J3: Outgoing comms<br />
## Comms channel<br />
## +12V<br />
## Ground<br />
## +5V<br />
* J4: PC Serial connector<br />
## Ground. When using a 9-pin female serial socket, this is pin 5.<br />
## To receive on PC (RX). When using a 9-pin female serial socket, this is pin 2.<br />
## To transmit on PC (TX). When using a 9-pin female serial socket, this is pin 3.<br />
<br />
== Variations ==<br />
<br />
If you're planning on using a PC power supply to run your RepRap, then you can use the 5V supply that it provides instead of using a 7805. The simple way to do this is to make the following changes:<br />
* Leave out the 2-pin power connector (J1).<br />
* Leave out the 7805 voltage regulator<br />
* Put a 3-pin power connector where you would have put the 7805.<br />
* Then from top to bottom (as pictured on the top view), the connections are +12V, Gnd, +5V.<br />
* Wire a cable to suit your power supply that connects to the pins in this order.<br />
<br />
<br />
Even if you do use a PC power supply, you can just connect the 12V line and use the module as depicted.<br />
<br />
The MAX202 chip can be used as a drop-in replacement for the MAX232, optionally allowing C2-C5 to be replaced with cheaper 0.1uF ceramic capacitors. See http://www.maxim-ic.com for details on chip and sampling options.<br />
<br />
The board has a lot of spare space on it and you can make a much more compact board if you prefer. However space is really useful for mounting and adding modifications later on, should any be needed (which will probably save you from starting from scratch). There is a possibility that you might want to add a heatsink to the 7805 in the future, and these take up a little space too. If in doubt, be generous with the board size.<br />
<br />
== Troubleshooting ==<br />
<br />
If you experience trouble, please share the problems (and resolutions) with us here:<br />
<br />
=== Debugging your serial connection ===<br />
<br />
Before applying power always first check your stripboard wiring as described in the [[Electronics Fabrication Guide|Electronics Fabrication Guide]].<br />
<br />
Experienced hardware folk never trust their hardware. First make sure your serial port operates, which is easily done by shorting the Rx and Tx lines out on the serial lead from your PC. These are pins 2 & 3 and a small screwdriver will do the job. Do not touch the other pins or the casing. With the other arms, type characters at a dumb serial terminal such as Hyperterminal (Windows), minicom (Linux) or kermit (Linux) which has had all flow control turned off. If the port works, your typing should echo back - and stop echoing when you remove the screwdriver. If it doesn't work, you have the wrong port, a dead lead, a dead port, or if really unlucky a combination of the above.<br />
<br />
When testing with comms software ensure flow control is set to "none". If in doubt for the other settings, use the following (though it's not too important at this stage): 19200 baud, 8 bits, no parity, one stop bit (8-N-1). If available, set carrier-detect to off.<br />
<br />
Use the same principle to test the connector to the board, shorting it out with a screwdriver while no power is applied is acceptable. The pins to short are pins 2 and 3 of the serial connector on the module board (while the cable is still attached to the PC). If that doesn't work, your cable is suspect.<br />
<br />
If all this checks out and you have verified the stripboard soldering, then you can apply power to the board. If you have a multimeter, check the following voltage levels are present. If any of these are wrong it suggests a defect in your wiring. In each case, measure from the first pin with the negative input of your voltmeter to the second pin with the positive input of your voltmeter. For these measurements, plug the power in, but do not plug the device into the PC. Also leave the communications connectors empty.<br />
<br />
* Pin 15 to 16: 5V. A mismatch suggests a power supply or 7805 issue.<br />
* Pin 15 to 14: -7 to -15V. A mismatch suggests a short on the board or a miswiring of the cable.<br />
* Pin 15 to 13: 0V. A mismatch suggests a miswired cable.<br />
* Pin 15 to 12: 5V<br />
* Pin 15 to 11: 4 to 4.5V.<br />
<br />
Now plug the serial connector into the PC (still leaving the communications connectors empty). You should now measure the following:<br />
<br />
* Pin 15 to 16: 5V. A mismatch suggests a power supply or 7805 issue.<br />
* Pin 15 to 14: -7 to -15V. A mismatch suggests a short on the board or a miswiring of the cable.<br />
* Pin 15 to 13: -7 to -15V. A mismatch suggests a miswired cable.<br />
* Pin 15 to 12: 5V<br />
* Pin 15 to 11: 4 to 4.5V.<br />
<br />
Now get a module connector cable (which is either 3 or 4 wires depending on how you're constructing your modules) and connect J2 to J3. This makes the comms card behave as if it is addressing other controller cards. Be sure that you don't get your cable twisted when you connect J2 to J3. Doing so shorts your 12V pin directly to ground, a move that is unlikely to do your power supply a lot of good.<br />
<br />
Alternatively, you can simply attach a jumper wire from pin 1 on the outgoing comms connector (J2) to pin 1 on the incoming communications connector (J3). Take great care not to get your connector cable twisted. <br />
<br />
You should now observe the following:<br />
<br />
* Pin 15 to 11: 5V (rather than somewhere from 4 to 4.5V)<br />
<br />
At this stage you should be able to do an internal echo test. <br />
<br />
Using your comms software and the same settings as you previously used (no flow control), type or send some characters. The exact same characters should echo back to you. If you remove the power from the module, the echo should stop. Turn it on again and check that echo returns. Similarly, if you remove the comms cable echo should stop, put it back it and check that echo returns.<br />
<br />
For Linux you can also use the 'poke' utility form the firmware toolkit to test the interface. I used device /dev/ttyUSB0 - a serial USB adaptor - as my serial port on a Linux box, Windows users probably have COM1 or something similar. Here is the command line; change your serial device to match and make sure you have access rights to that device (in Ubuntu you must be a member of the system ''dialout'' group):<br />
<br />
<nowiki>echo 0||./poke -d 2 -t /dev/ttyUSB0 -v -w</nowiki><br />
<br />
It should come back with:<br />
<nowiki><br />
<54><51><31><02><00><00><d0>[54][51][31][02][00][00][d0]Read fail 2<br />
<54><51><31><02><00><00><d0>[54][51][31][02][00][00][d0]Read fail 2<br />
<54><51><31><02><00><00><d0>[54][51][31][02][00][00][d0]Read fail 2<br />
<54><51><31><02><00><00><d0>[54][51][31][02][00][00][d0]Read fail 2</nowiki><br />
<br />
If this does not happen, type:<br />
<br />
<nowiki>stty -F $serialport -echo -cooked</nowiki><br />
<br />
and try again.<br />
<br />
For Windows the poke utility is not currently available. You can use the Java stepper exerciser application instead. If you launch it and drag one of the position sliders, you should see the following error: <tt>Update exception: java.io.IOException: Received data packet when expecting ACK</tt><br />
<br />
Now you are ready to connect your [[BuildingAStripboardStepperController|stepper controller]].<br />
<br />
== See Also ==<br />
<br />
* RepStrap<br />
* [[Building A Stripboard Stepper Controller|Building A Stripboard Stepper Controller]]<br />
<br />
-- Main.SimonMcAuliffe - 02 Feb 2006<br />
<br />
[[Category:Deprecated electronics]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Toaster_Oven_Reflow_Technique&diff=85157Toaster Oven Reflow Technique2013-03-07T12:26:33Z<p>Ipinson: /* Equipment */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Toaster Oven Reflow<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = smt-ga.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = reflow solder surface mount printed circuits<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = Adrianbowyer<br />
}}<br />
<br />
[[File:smt-ga.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
See also [[HotplateReflowTechnique]].<br />
<br />
==Introduction==<br />
<br />
[[File:sb-smt.jpg|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
This page describes how to reflow solder surface mount printed circuits using a cheap toaster oven. It owes a great deal to Nophead's [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2009/12/cooking-with-hydraraptor.html Cooking with Hydraraptor blog post].<br />
<br />
The picture shows Sally Bowyer (Director, [http://reprappro.com RepRapPro Ltd]) preparing components for soldering in the oven. For more instructions on this see the video at the bottom of this page.<br />
<br />
==Safety==<br />
<br />
This uses mains electricity, which will kill you if you touch it. So don't.<br />
<br />
It makes things hot (solder melting temperatures), which will burn you if you touch them. So don't.<br />
<br />
Solder contains lead. Lead is bad for you. Don't use the oven you use for this for food. <br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
==Equipment==<br />
<br />
[[File:toaster-oven.jpg|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
The toaster oven we use is [http://www.argos.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?storeId=10001&catalogId=1500002901&langId=-1&searchTerms=4234810 this 900W one from Argos in the UK]. It costs £25.<br />
<br />
Just about any toaster oven will do, as long as its power rating is not too high. The solid-state relay (see below) can switch 5A; power = volts x amps; do the mathematics...<br />
<br />
Try to get one with quartz halogen heaters though - these respond very fast to being switched on and off, which is good.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
[[File:arduino.jpg|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
You will also need an [http://arduino.cc Arduino] to control it. Just about any Arduino will do; we use the Arduino Diecimila, because we happened to have a few lying about.<br />
<br />
Finally, you need a solid-state relay so the Arduino [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] can turn the oven on and off, and a temperature sensor that will do up to 250<sup>o</sup>C.<br />
<br />
We use [http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1200289 this solid-state relay from Farnell], and a K-type thermocouple plus thermocouple amplifier (see below). Alternatively you could use the same types of thermistors that RepRap uses for its extruders as temperature sensors - the temperatures are about the same.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
==Control==<br />
<br />
[[File:Thermocouple_1.0_schematic.png|500px|right]]<br />
<br />
This is the circuit diagram of the thermocouple amplifier. IC1 is an [http://science.cdu.edu.ua/files/pdf/1.pdf AD595]. It needs a [http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermocouples/4094908/ Type K thermocouple].<br />
<br />
MakerBot sell a [http://store.makerbot.com/electronics/electronics-kits/thermocouple-sensor-v1-0-kit.html kit for the amplifier here].<br />
<br />
The thermocouple connects to pins 1 and 14. You can't solder thermocouple wire, so have a screw connector for those pins.<br />
<br />
If you get silly temperatures reported by the firmware (see below) or the warning LED lights, then the thermocouple wires are the wrong way round. Swap them.<br />
<br />
JP1 connects to the Arduino:<br />
<br />
* JP1 pin 1 -> Arduino +5v.<br />
* JP1 pin 2 -> Arduino A<sub>0</sub>.<br />
* JP1 pin 3 -> Arduino Ground.<br />
<br />
If you get noise problems on the temperature signal, solder a 100uF capacitor between Vcc and ground. Take care to get the capacitor polarity right.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
[[File:ss-relay.jpg|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
The [http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1200289 solid-state relay] has four connections. Two go in series with the mains live wire. The other two turn the mains current on and off.<br />
<br />
The neatest thing to do with the solid-state relay is to mount it inside a mains plug patress box. You will then have a general-purpose device that will allow you to control any mains load (up to 5A) with the Arduino. Run the control wires out of the side of the box and connect them to the Arduino: + goes to the Arduino LED (D13 on an Arduino Diecimila), the other control connection goes to the Arduino ground.<br />
<br />
Note that there is no electrical connection inside the solid-state relay between the control circuit and the mains circuit. The device is optically coupled, so there is no danger that you will get mains flowing through your Arduino (as long as you wire things up right...).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
[[File:ss-relay-etc.jpg|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
The picture shows the control system, which is all screwed down to a small wood plank. <br />
<br />
On the left is the electric socket. This is open so you can see the solid-state relay mounted inside. <br />
<br />
Run a mains cable with a plug on the end into the electric socket to power the oven.<br />
<br />
Put the relay's switched side in series with the cable's live wire on the way to the live terminal of the socket; run the neutral and earth straight through to their socket terminals. Insulate any exposed live connections carefully with heat-shrink. Run two wires from the control pins to the Arduino as described above. Colour code them so you can remember which one is + when the electric socket is put back together.<br />
<br />
In the middle is the Arduino, and on the right is the thermocouple amplifier.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
<br />
Here is the Arduino control program. This has an inbuilt temperature vs. time profile that it follows. The basic rules are: <br />
<br />
# heat up to 150<sup>o</sup>C - this is the flux activation temperature<br />
# heat up more slowly to 183<sup>o</sup>C - this is the solder's melting point<br />
# heat up faster to 215<sup>o</sup>C - this is the reflow temperature<br />
# cool<br />
<br />
The timings are not too critical, but you don't want the components to stay at the highest temperature for too long. The highest temperature is set to 215<sup>o</sup>C, but you will find that this overshoots a bit to 220<sup>o</sup>C, which is the actual temperature you want.<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
/*<br />
<br />
Toaster Oven SMT soldering control<br />
<br />
Adrian Bowyer<br />
<br />
2 November 2011<br />
<br />
Licence: GPL<br />
<br />
*/<br />
<br />
const int heatPin = 13; // the number of the LED pin. This also controls the heater<br />
int heatState = LOW; // heatState used to set the LED and heater<br />
long previousMillis = 0; // will store last time LED/heater was updated<br />
const long interval = 1000; // interval at which to sample temperature (milliseconds)<br />
const int tempPin = 0; // Analogue pin for temperature reading<br />
long time = 0; // Time since start in seconds<br />
bool done=false; // Flag to indicate that the process has finished<br />
<br />
// The temperature/time profile as {secs, temp}<br />
// This profile is linearly interpolated to get the required temperature at any time.<br />
// PLEN is the number of entries<br />
#define PLEN 6<br />
long profile[PLEN][2] = { {0, 15}, {120, 150}, {220, 183}, {280, 215}, {320, 183}, {350, 0} };<br />
<br />
// Linearly interpolate the profile for the current time in secs, t<br />
<br />
int target(long t)<br />
{<br />
if(t <= profile[0][0])<br />
return profile[0][1];<br />
if(t >= profile[PLEN-1][0])<br />
{<br />
done = true; // We are off the end of the time curve<br />
return profile[PLEN-1][1];<br />
}<br />
for(int i = 1; i < PLEN-1; i++)<br />
{<br />
if(t <= profile[i][0])<br />
return (int)(profile[i-1][1] + ((t - profile[i-1][0])*(profile[i][1] - profile[i-1][1]))/<br />
(profile[i][0] - profile[i-1][0]));<br />
}<br />
return 0;<br />
}<br />
<br />
// Measure the actual temperature from the thermocouple<br />
<br />
int temperature()<br />
{<br />
return ( 5.0 * analogRead(tempPin) * 100.0) / 1024.0;<br />
}<br />
<br />
// Get the show on the road<br />
<br />
void setup() {<br />
<br />
pinMode(heatPin, OUTPUT); <br />
pinMode(tempPin, INPUT); <br />
Serial.begin(9600);<br />
Serial.println("\n\n\nTime, target, temp"); <br />
done = false;<br />
}<br />
<br />
// Go round and round<br />
<br />
void loop()<br />
{<br />
int t;<br />
unsigned long currentMillis = millis();<br />
<br />
if(currentMillis - previousMillis > interval) <br />
{<br />
previousMillis = currentMillis; // set next time <br />
<br />
// Get the actual temperature<br />
<br />
t = temperature();<br />
<br />
// One second has passed<br />
<br />
time++; <br />
<br />
// Find the target temperature<br />
<br />
int tg = target(time);<br />
<br />
// Simple bang-bang temperature control<br />
<br />
if (t < tg)<br />
{<br />
heatState = HIGH;<br />
} else<br />
{<br />
heatState = LOW;<br />
}<br />
<br />
// Turn the heater on or off (and the LED)<br />
digitalWrite(heatPin, heatState);<br />
<br />
// Keep the user amused<br />
if(done)<br />
{<br />
Serial.print((char)0x07); // Bell to wake the user up...<br />
Serial.print((char)0x07);<br />
Serial.print("FINISHED ");<br />
}<br />
Serial.print(time);<br />
Serial.print(", ");<br />
Serial.print(tg);<br />
Serial.print(", ");<br />
Serial.println(t);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Upload the firmware above into the Arduino.<br />
<br />
==Operation==<br />
<br />
Plug the controller into a mains socket that is, for the moment, switched off. <br />
<br />
Plug the oven into the controller.<br />
<br />
Connect the Arduino to a computer via a USB cable. You can use the terminal emulator in the Arduino development environment to monitor what is going on, or you can use stand-alone programs like Miniterm (Linux) and Hyperterminal (Windows).<br />
<br />
Tape the thermocouple to a part of the PCB where it won't interfere with the components using Kapton tape. <br />
<br />
Place the PCB on the shelf in the middle of the oven.<br />
<br />
Close the oven door on the thermocouple lead, taking care that there is slack thermocouple lead in the oven so the PCB doesn't move when you do this.<br />
<br />
Hold the reset button on the Arduino down, then turn on the mains power.<br />
<br />
Let the reset button go.<br />
<br />
The device should cycle through its range of temperatures and solder your board.<br />
<br />
The oven won't cool as fast as the control curve demands, so open the door when the temperature is on its way down and the target temperature drops below 200<sup>o</sup>C.<br />
<br />
Don't move the PCB until its temperature gets down to around 150<sup>o</sup>C. If you move it while the solder is still molten the components may shift.<br />
<br />
You will find that the temperature lags behind the profile at the start (up to around 100<sup>o</sup>C), especially for large PCBs. This doesn't matter; it's the higher temperatures that are important, and the oven and controller will follow those quite faithfully.<br />
<br />
You may want to use a bit of scrap board the very first time you try it, as a test.<br />
<br />
If you are doing lots of boards, you can just press the reset button after you put each one in the oven. When each board is finished the controller will keep the oven switched off until you next press reset.<br />
<br />
==Video==<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">33188183</videoflash><br />
<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Template:RepRapPro_printing&diff=85156Template:RepRapPro printing2013-03-07T12:26:23Z<p>Ipinson: /* Warming up */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Settings=<br />
<br />
RepRapPro 3D printers are being sold as a complete printing solution, as such the RepRapPro host software comes with pre-tuned print settings for PLA and ABS filament. We encourage people to play with and put forward improvements to the print settings, but would advise starting with the provided print profiles and working from there.<br />
<br />
=Warming up=<br />
<br />
The provided print profiles include a startup routine which will prepare the printer before the print starts. This routine does not include a command to wait for the heatbed to reach the desired temperature, (this is because the heating of the bed can take up to 20mins for ABS printing, and it would be quite disconcerting for the printer to sit there for ages apparently not doing anything and for it to suddenly start after all this time).<br />
<br />
So before starting a print, you will need [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] to heat the bed to a suitable temperature for printing:<br />
<br />
Huxley: 95C for PLA and 140C for ABS, (bed temperatures are not calibrated on the top surface of the bed, so these values may appear rather high to some people).<br />
<br />
Mendel: 55C for PLA and 110C for ABS.<br />
<br />
=Preparing a file to print=<br />
<br />
Your 3D model will need to be processed into a format which the printer understands. This is known as a GCode file (print commands are GCodes, [[Mendel_User_Manual:_RepRapGCodes|see this reference]]).<br />
<br />
Before you can process a 3D model, you may need to tell Pronterface where to find the slicing tool. Click on Settings | Options and check that slicecommand and sliceoptscommand point to the location of your slicing tool. These will normally be:<br />
<br />
<tt>python ./skeinforge/skeinforge_application/skeinforge_utilities/skeinforge_craft.py $s</tt><br />
<br />
<tt>python ./skeinforge/skeinforge_application/skeinforge.py</tt><br />
<br />
respectively. The pronterface software includes a customised copy of skeinforge in the subdirectory called ./skeinforge .<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-pronterface_SKeinforgeMenu_Profiles.png|400px]]<br />
<br />
The 3D model will need to be in the STL file format. The software will load either a pre-processed GCode file or an STL 3D model. Click on Load file and select an STL file to process it. You will see progress of this process in the log window.<br />
<br />
Once complete, the log will indicate how much filament will be used to print the model. You can then either print direct form USB or copy the file to the MicroSD card in the machine.<br />
<br />
If printing from USB, your .gcode file will have been automatically loaded.<br />
<br />
It is recommended, however, to print from the MicroSD for a number of reasons. When printing from USB, the print can be adversely affected by the host PC giving the printer a low priority over other running applications, slowing down the stream of commands. Also, the USB connection appears to be quite sensitive to AC noise on the power cable to the host PC.<br />
<br />
To print from the SD card, copy the file to the card (which can be done through the printer interface with the SD card still in the machine, but it is much quicker to insert the card into the host PC and copy the file. Just make sure you INIT SD once the card is re-inserted).<br />
<br />
=Starting a print=<br />
<br />
To begin a print, you need to select the file you wish to print. Either from the Load file button to print direct from USB, or from the SD Print button.<br />
<br />
Once the print starts, the machine will go through the following startup routine:<br />
<br />
1. The printer moves all 3 motion axes in a negative direction to find X, Y, and Z zero.<br />
<br />
2. The nozzle is heated to the relevant extrusion temperature.<br />
<br />
3. Once extrusion temperature has been reached, the machine will print an outline before printing the component(s) to ensure the melt chamber behind the nozzle is primed.<br />
<br />
When not required to move, the Z motors are de-activated. This can be a useful feature as it allows the Z height to be tweaked and the X axis to be levelled whilst the outline is being printed. Simply rotate the Z couplings by hand to get a good first layer (filament slightly squished). If you have moved the two couplings in unison to adjust the Z height, you will need to adjust the Z offset in the firmware before the next print, otherwise you will end up having to tweak the Z height manually at the start of each print.<br />
<br />
To adjust the Z height in firmware, use the command '''M206 Z<value>''' where <value> is the amount in millimeters by which you wish to adjust the Z height. If the first layer is too close to the bed, you need to effectively move the bed down, so <value> will be negative. If the nozzle is too far from the bed during the first layer, <value> should be positive to raise the bed. The maximum adjustment is +/-1.27mm. Note that the Z height adjustment is stored in non-volatile memory on the printer so your printer will remember this setting even if you remove power.<br />
<br />
Depending on the distance of the limit switches to the bed it may be necessary to offset the printhead. Check if the nozzle of the printhead is over the bed if you use the command '''G1 Y0''' and '''G1 Y135''' (Huxley) or '''G1 Y195''' (Mendel). If this is not the case large prints will fail because they will be not on the bed. Set an offset by using the command '''M206 Y<value>'''. Sample: With '''M206 Y-8''' you offset the Y axis by -8 mm. Check also X axis. Of course, you can always move the limit switch.</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRapPro_Huxley_Melzi_wiring&diff=85155RepRapPro Huxley Melzi wiring2013-03-07T12:26:12Z<p>Ipinson: /* Important: general rules for wiring up */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|RepRapPro_Huxley_Melzi_wiring}}<br />
{{RepRapPro_Huxley_Contents}}<br />
<br />
=Alternative=<br />
<br />
This page describes how to wire up a RepRapPro Huxley that is to be fitted with [[Melzi|Melzi Electronics]] that look like this:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Melzi-ardentissimo.jpg|500px|Melzi RepRap Controller PCB]]<br />
<br />
There is a parallel page that describes how to wire up a RepRapPro Huxley that is to be fitted with [[Sanguinololu|Sanguinololu Electronics]] that look like this:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Sanguinololu.jpg|300px|Sanguinololu RepRap Controller PCB]]<br />
<br />
Follow [[RepRapPro Huxley Sanguinololu wiring|this link for the alternative Sanguinololu wiring page]].<br />
<br />
=Goal=<br />
<br />
By the end of this stage your machine will be ready to commission. <br />
<br />
The electronics will have been temporarily fitted. This allows wire lengths to be set and the machine to start working. It is deliberately rather messy, as this allows wires to be re-routed over and under each other and similar adjustments. The messiness will, of course, be tidied up over the next few instruction pages. <br />
<br />
Your will be guided through the print of the final parts needed for your RepRap Huxley to build itself: the clips for holding the controller PCB and the power socket.<br />
<br />
You will then remove the temporary attachments and replace them with permanent ones.<br />
<br />
=Important: general rules for wiring up=<br />
<br />
You will do serious damage to your RepRap electronics if the power is connected backwards. Other damaging mistakes are to short out high-current devices like motors and heaters, and to connect high-voltage devices like stepper drivers to signal inputs like temperature sensors. <br />
<br />
So - '''in the sections below where it tells you to check things - please check them thoroughly'''. It is worth taking the time...<br />
<br />
'''Also important for the steps below:''' when attaching wires to screw connectors, strip about 5mm of insulation off them, twist them between your fingers, and '''tin them with solder'''. The tinning is needed for good contact, and to ensure that fraying does not cause shorts.<br />
<br />
When wires leave a device (like a motor) or arrive [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] at a connection (like the screw connectors on the controller) leave a small slack length (about 20mm long) for strain relief - don't have the wires taut.<br />
<br />
Finally, when making any changes to the wiring or any other electrical aspect of the machine, '''first disconnect both the power and the USB'''.<br />
<br />
=Tools=<br />
<br />
*Wire strippers<br />
<br />
*Soldering iron<br />
<br />
*Small screwdriver<br />
<br />
*Vice<br />
<br />
You will also need a reel of sticky tape.<br />
<br />
{{RepRapPro_Melzi_Current_Setting}}<br />
<br />
=Wire routes=<br />
<br />
These elevations show the wire routes round the machine. They are referred to in the individual sections below.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-wire-routes-front.jpg|x400px]]&nbsp;&nbsp;[[File:reprappro-huxley-wire-routes-left.jpg|x400px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-wire-routes-right.jpg|x400px]]&nbsp;&nbsp;[[File:reprappro-huxley-wire-routes-back.jpg|x400px]]<br />
<br />
The wires will ultimately be attached using coil strip and cable ties. But at this stage attach then using sticky tape (the tape called "pressure tape" works well). If you do this you can build things up incrementally without sacrificing ties when you need to move a wire.<br />
<br />
=Step 1: The PTFE tube shield=<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-tube-shield.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Run a length of the curled wire retaining strip along the back M6 threaded bar at the top. This should completely cover the threads. It prevents the extruder's PTFE tube from rubbing on them.<br />
<br />
=Step 2: The controller=<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-pcb-clips.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
You will need the four printed PCB clips.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-pcb-fitted.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Clip the top two onto the frame as near to the top of the M6 threaded rods as you can. The open ends of the clips point outwards. The slots in the clips point downwards.<br />
<br />
Offer up the controller PCB to the slots. Offset the printed circuit so that the USB connector (with the black USB cable connected in the picture - don't connect it yet) is just to the left of the right-hand threaded bar.<br />
<br />
Push the bottom clips onto the frame to secure the PCB. Take care not to damage any of the soldered components.<br />
<br />
All the connectors along the top of the controller are labelled so you can get the right wires in the right connectors. The only exception is the extruder fan - this does not connect to the connector labelled "FAN"; that is for something else. See the extruder wiring section below for more information.<br />
<br />
=Step 3: Power=<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-09-162016.53.07.jpg]]<br />
<br />
The power from the 19v power supply comes through the connector with positive in the centre and negative around the outside<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-09-162016.54.48.jpg]]<br />
<br />
You will need two power cables in the machine: one about 500 mm long for the controller board, and one about 400 mm long for the heated bed. Both connect to the socket above.<br />
<br />
Strip the insulation from the ends of two power wire pairs. For the +19v ends strip about 5mm. For the 0v ends strip about 15mm.<br />
<br />
Twist the +19v ends together and tin them. Put a length of heatshrink over both, then solder them to Pin 3 in the picture:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-powerSMALL.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Run the heatshrink down over the pin and shrink it.<br />
<br />
Twist the 0v ends together and push the result through Pin 1 , then across and through Pin 2. Keep it clear of Pin 3.<br />
<br />
Solder these wires to both Pins 1 and 2. Trim off any excess.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-power-clip.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Check that the power connector fits easily into the printed power-connector bracket. Then attach the printer power-connector bracket to the vertex of your Huxley at the back on the left using a 25mm M3 screw, two washers and an M3 nut as shown. Attach the connector to the bracket. (Obviously the wire from the power supply (black) will not yet be plugged in - that picture was taken from a working machine.)<br />
<br />
The power wire to the controller board follows the upper path of route E.<br />
<br />
Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, and tin them.<br />
<br />
Now plug the power supply into the power connector. Make sure that neither of the free ends of the power leads can short on anything and connect a voltmeter to the ends that you are about to screw into the controller board.<br />
<br />
Turn on the power, and make sure that you have +19v and 0v where you expect.<br />
<br />
'''Turn off the power and unplug the power supply.''' <br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-controller-power.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Screw the wires into the power connector of the controller. The 0v (GND) connection is on the '''right'''. The +19v is on the '''left'''. Check this again with a meter to the outside of the power connector and then to its middle pin.<br />
<br />
The power wire to the heated bed follows the lower path of route E. Leave a generous loop so that the bed can run back and forth along its full travel. But don't make the wire so long that it catches on things. Tape it on and try different lengths by hand. Only cut it when its right.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-heatbed-power.jpg|400px]] <br />
<br />
Strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the heated bed. The 0v (GND) connection is '''in the middle'''. The +19v is on the '''right'''. There is '''no connection on the left'''.<br />
<br />
Check that 0v (GND) and +19v on the heated bed are connected to the corresponding points on the controller board with the meter.<br />
<br />
=Step 4: The stepper motors=<br />
<br />
===Y===<br />
<br />
Start with the Y stepper wires. These follow route G on the pictures above. Gently twist the wires (not tight) so that they lie neatly together. Tape the wires to the frame every 60/70 mm.<br />
<br />
From left to right the colour sequence of the Y-motor wires connecting to the controller is: Red, Blue, Green, Black.<br />
<br />
Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "Y-MOTOR" controller connector.<br />
<br />
===X===<br />
<br />
Next do the X wires. These follow route A. Again gently twist them. Allow a loop as shown - remember that this will have to accommodate the Z axis as it moves up and down.<br />
<br />
From left to right the colour sequence of the X-motor wires connecting to the controller is: Red, Blue, Green, Black.<br />
<br />
Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "X-MOTOR" controller connector.<br />
<br />
===Extruder===<br />
<br />
Next do the extruder motor wires. These follow the top of route E. Take care that the wires run clear of the extruder shaft attached to the big gear.<br />
<br />
From left to right the colour sequence of the extruder-motor wires connecting to the controller is: Black, Green, Blue, Red (that is, the opposite sequence to X and Y).<br />
<br />
Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "E-MOTOR" controller connector.<br />
<br />
===Z===<br />
<br />
Finally in this section do the Z wires.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-z-motor-wiring.png|400px]]<br />
<br />
The Z-motor wires run along route B.<br />
<br />
The two Z motors are connected in series as shown above. Cut two 20mm lengths of heat-shrink sleeving and put it on one of each pair of wires that will be connected together. Then twist the ends and solder them, then shrink the sleeving over the join.<br />
<br />
From left to right the colour sequence of the Z-motor wires connecting to the controller is: Black, Green, Blue, Red (that is the same as the extruder).<br />
<br />
Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "Z-MOTOR" controller connector.<br />
<br />
=Step 5: Endstops=<br />
<br />
Connect your endstops using two wires each. It is a good idea to use a different colour for each axis as this will make it easier to get the endstops connected to the correct input. The wires you cut from the stepper motors are different colours...<br />
<br />
For the limit switch end, crimp or solder a terminal onto the end of the wires, then cover with some heatshrink to insulate the terminal. Connect to the outer pins of the limit switches (the NC = Normally Closed connections; RepRap expects the switch to open when the endstop is hit.)<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-switch-wires.jpg]]<br />
<br />
The endstop switch holes should be drilled out to 3mm diameter so they can be mounted using #4x1/2" self tapping screws (alternatively, #2-56 and M2.2 screws will fit the switch, but are not included). <br />
<br />
===Y===<br />
<br />
The Y endstop is mounted beside the Y motor:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-endstop.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Its wires follows route F.<br />
<br />
Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "YSTOP" controller connector. They can be connected either way - they have no polarity.<br />
<br />
===X===<br />
<br />
For the X endstop you will need the sticky pad from the extruder fan that you peeled off and saved. Cut a rectangle from it the size of the face of the switch and stick it on so that...<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-x-endstop.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
...it will be between the switch and the X-motor end of the X axis. Make sure that the sticky pad does not stick out and so foul the movement of the switch's lever. <br />
<br />
Make a small hole in the sticky pad so that you can put a screw through the lower switch hole, then screw the switch to the X-motor end of the X axis.<br />
<br />
The wires follow route A. Wind them loosely round the X motor wires.<br />
<br />
Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "XSTOP" controller connector. They can be connected either way - they have no polarity.<br />
<br />
===Z===<br />
<br />
The Z endstop switch is mounted using the "h" shaped printed clip on the right-hand smooth Z bar:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-z-endstop.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
Leave a generous loop of wire between the switch and where you first attach it to the frame. You need to be able to move the "h" clip up and down to set the Z zero position.<br />
<br />
The Z switch wires follow route F.<br />
<br />
Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "ZSTOP" connector. They can be connected either way - they have no polarity.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Step 6: Hot end=<br />
<br />
Separate the wires from the heater resistor and those from the thermistor.<br />
<br />
Straighten the fan wire (it is quite stiff, and can get kinked). Wrap the heater resistor wires round the fan wire. It is neatest to do these together, one going clockwise and the other anti-clockwise.<br />
<br />
Loop the heater and fan wires behind and over the top of the threaded bars across the top of the machine (the wires don't run between the bars). Give a generous loop - remember that the X axis has to run from end to end when the Z axis is at the bottom of its travel. Tape the wires to the middle of the front bar.<br />
<br />
You marked the fan wires positive and negative when you cut the connector off them. Trim them to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above, and not forgetting which is positive and which is negative), strip the ends, and tin them. Loosen the power wires and and screw them and the fan wires back into the main power connector. '''Make sure you get the polarity right.'''<br />
<br />
'''The fan wires do not connect to the connector marked "FAN"'''. That is for a different optional fan for cooling prints as they are being built from materials that require that. <br />
<br />
Run the heater resistor wires to the "HOTEND" connector. Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "HOTEND" connector. They can be connected either way - they have no polarity.<br />
<br />
Wind the thermistor wires round the fan wires in the same way as you did the heater wires. Run them to the "ETEMP" connector. Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "ETEMP" connector. They can be connected either way - they have no polarity.<br />
<br />
=Step 7: Heated bed signal wires=<br />
<br />
If your ribbon cable does not have a coloured stripe you can easily add one with a felt-tipped pen:<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-bed-ribbon-marking.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Take the 4-way ribbon cable. Separate the wires at one end for about 15mm.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-idc.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Push the separated wires into the 4-way insulation displacement connector (IDC). There is no need to strip the wires. Use the jaws of the vice to push the connector together. Be gentle - don't damage the connector by pushing too far.<br />
<br />
Plug the connector onto the 4-way pin header on the heated bed at the right in this picture:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-heatbed-power.jpg|400px]] <br />
<br />
The ribbon cable follows route E.<br />
<br />
Only three of the four wires are used (the fourth is for a future enhancement for bed levelling for which your machine is already pre-configured). The unused wire is the nearest to you in the picture.<br />
<br />
The next wire in is the signal that turns the heated bed MOSFET on and off. That needs to be connected to a pin on the expansion header as shown below (top row, second pin in from the left):<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-bed-MOSFET-gnd.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
As you can see, "HOTBED" connector is not connected to anything, since we are using the bed mounted MOSFET to control the heatbed.<br />
<br />
The final two wires (the two furthest away in the first picture) go to the connector labelled "BTEMP". The wire connected to the innermost pin on the heatbed PCB is GND. This should be screwed into the BTEMP connector, in the side nearest the ETEMP connector. The next wire in the ribbon cable connects to the other side of the BTEMP connector.<br />
<br />
=Step 8: USB cable=<br />
<br />
The USB cable plugs into the mini-USB connector beside the SD card socket on the controller. The cable follows route C.<br />
<br />
=Step 9: Double check=<br />
<br />
Use your meter to double-check the power connections. <br />
<br />
Make sure that 0v (GND) - the outside of the power connector - runs to the places in the circuitry that you would expect (for example the case of the SD card socket). <br />
<br />
Check that the +19v wires run from the central pin on the connector to the right places on the circuit boards.<br />
<br />
Check the continuity of the connections to the heated bed with a meter from the screw connections on the controller board to the little blobs of solder on top of the 4-way connector. If you have open-circuit problems, it may be the IDC. A neat trick with this to rectify an open circuit (thanks to Alan Ryder) is gently to pull the IDC apart, take the wires out, strip them, and tin them. Then reassemble - the tinning ensures good contact with the IDC blades. This is only worth doing if you have problems with the simple method, though.<br />
<br />
'''You did set the motor currents, as described above, didn't you?'''<br />
<br />
=Next step=<br />
<br />
[[RepRapPro Huxley commissioning|Commissioning]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Build_Instructions]]<br />
[[Category:RepRapPro]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=TriggeredPolymerizationResinBlends&diff=85153TriggeredPolymerizationResinBlends2013-03-07T12:25:57Z<p>Ipinson: /* Resins, Oligomers, Monomers */</p>
<hr />
<div>[PrintingMaterials Back to Printing Materials page]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
= Triggered Polymerization Resin Blends =<br />
<br />
== Resins, Oligomers, Monomers ==<br />
<br />
'''Sunrez''' is a site that sells ready-made UV set resins. The prices are good but the shipping costs are very steep. This would be useful for people that don't want to mix their resins themselves starting from base products. I guess they mostly deliver in the USA, but it would be interesting to find out if they have resellers worldwide and if you can get their products in retail shops to save the shipping costs:<br />
<br />
http://www.sunrez.com/indexprod.html<br />
<br />
These Sunrez resins use a standard UV-A category of lamps, the ones used for sun-tanning.<br />
<br />
'''Methyl Methacrylate.''' This is the monomer used for making Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA, Plexiglas). It is a liquid and doesn't smell to bad, so it would be the ideal product to formulate acrylate resins. It's also not to expensive as acrylates come.<br />
<br />
[http://www.polysciences.com/shop/product.asp?dept%5Fid=300002&pf%5Fid=00834&mscssid=BTGNNDTRAKDK8P3XJ5C56ETA1GVX70R5 MMA at Polysciences]<br />
<br />
[http://www.acros.com/DesktopModules/Acros_Search_Results/Acros_Search_Results.aspx?search_type=CatalogSearch&SearchString=80-62-6 MMA at ACROS]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''This site''' offers a range of rubber and glazing resins that may have interesting properties for some applications. Somewhat expensive...<br />
<br />
[http://polydiam.com/shop/products.php?cat=26 At Polydiam]<br />
<br />
'''Polyester Acrylate Resins.''' Unsaturated polyester resins, show a lower shrinkage upon curing. That is why they exhibit good intercoat adhesion properties. Fast cure response.<br />
<br />
A good website to find all types of [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] monomers and oligomers with their descriptions and properties can be found at this very complete site: <br />
<br />
[http://www.sartomereurope.com/prodline.asp?plid=2 Oligomers at Sartomer.com]<br />
<br />
[http://www.sartomereurope.com/prodline.asp?plid=1 Monomers at Sartomer.com]<br />
<br />
or at<br />
<br />
[http://www.basf.com/rawmaterials/bcrawlaromer.html BASF Resins]<br />
<br />
For an extensive list of worldwide resellers of chemical products, visit the following site. <br />
<br />
[http://www.chemexper.com/ www.chemexper.com]<br />
<br />
== Catalysts Systems ==<br />
In this section we will list a number of catalyst that will trigger it's desired action through an external input. They have different uses and may be triggered through heat, UV-light, visible light, electron beam radiation, moisture exposition etc.<br />
<br />
For each catalyst I will describe a number of applications where it can be used, although the list is virtually endless. I have chosen the catalysts for their ease of use, price and availability, and have tried to use the safest available. Nevertheless, all precautions on manipulating chemicals apply! These compounds will probably always be noxious, flammable, irritant, and may even cause cellular damage. Use gloves (plastic or rubber gloves will do fine) and I recommend wearing some kind of protective clothes (painter suit or large aprons).<br />
<br />
=== Ultraviolet Photoinitiators ===<br />
<br />
==== Benzophenones ====<br />
<br />
These molecules contain two aromatic functional groups that adsorb UV light which puts the molecule in an excited state. Together with amines or even alone, they easily form radicals that trigger the polymerization chain reaction. The average concentration of Benzophenone initiators in the polymer blend lies between 1 and 4 weight percent (wt%). High concentrations speed up the hardening process. Lower concentrations allow a better hardening of deep layers.<br />
Benzophenones may be used for hardening of Acrylates (together with tertiary Amines), Polyesters and some Epoxy resins. <br />
<br />
===== Benzophenone =====<br />
(also: Diphenyl ketone or Diphenylmethanone, CAS N� 119-61-9)<br />
<br />
http://reprap.org/pub/Main/TriggeredCatalysts/IR_Benzophenone.png<br />
<br />
The adsorption spike at 260nm means that it will be triggered by fairly energetic UV light. Energetic UVs tend to travel less deep into the material and remain in the surface boundary, where it is adsorbed very fast. UV-B light at 260nm is to be obtained from germicidal UV lamps. This initiator is to be used in combination with others that adsorb longer wavelengths. It may also be used together with tertiary Amines for Acrylate blends or any mixes that suffer surface radical scavenging from air-oxygen. Benzophenone is a fairly safe compound to use.<br />
<br />
[http://www.acros.com/DesktopModules/Acros_Search_Results/Acros_Search_Results.aspx?search_type=CAS&SearchString=119-61-9 Benzophenone at ACROS Organics]<br />
<br />
[http://212.202.102.92/abcr/frmSuche.aspx?s=&name=benzophenone&anr=&sf=&cas=119-61-9 Benzophenone at ABCR]<br />
<br />
[http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/search/ProductDetail/SIAL/B9300 Benzophenone at Sigma Aldrich]<br />
<br />
===== Michler's Ketone =====<br />
(also: 4,4'-Bis(dimethylamino)benzophenone, CAS N� 90-94-8)<br />
<br />
http://reprap.org/pub/Main/TriggeredCatalysts/IR_Michlers_ketone.png<br />
<br />
The broad adsorption spike at 380nm and above of this initiator allows it to react at deeper levels of polymer. This is an ideal initiator to mix with Benzophenone, for a fast combined surface and deep curing reaction. Caution! Michler's Ketone has a higher health hazard than Benzophenone. Use gloves and mix it in ventilated areas.<br />
<br />
[http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/search/ProductDetail?ProdNo=147834&Brand=ALDRICH Michler's ketone at Sigma Aldrich]<br />
<br />
[http://www.acros.com/DesktopModules/Acros_Search_Results/Acros_Search_Results.aspx?search_type=CAS&SearchString=90-94-8 Michler's ketone at ACROS Organics]<br />
<br />
[http://212.202.102.92/abcr/frmSuche.aspx?s=&name=&anr=&sf=&cas=90-94-8 Michler's ketone at ABCR]<br />
<br />
== Fillers ==<br />
<br />
[FillerMaterials Go to Fillers section]<br />
<br />
== Formulation Examples ==<br />
<br />
= Glossary of Terms and Definitions =<br />
Here you will find a short and basic explanation of terms used in all the sections above.<br />
If some term used above seems unclear to you, please post a message in the forum and I will see to add the term to this glossary.<br />
<br />
[GlossaryOfTermsAndDefinitions Go to Glossary]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Consumables]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Filosof%C3%ADa&diff=85152Filosofía2013-03-07T12:25:47Z<p>Ipinson: /* ¿Por qué los contables son aburridos y los guitarritas encantadores? – El fin de la propiedad intelectual. (Why Accountants are Dull and Guitarists are Glamorous - The End of Intellectual Property) */</p>
<hr />
<div>== ¿Por qué los contables son aburridos y los guitarritas encantadores? – El fin de la propiedad intelectual. (''Why Accountants are Dull and Guitarists are Glamorous - The End of Intellectual Property'')==<br />
<br />
<br />
"La propiedad intelectual ha muerto." Eric von Hippel, Profesor de Gestión en la MIT ''Sloan School of Management'', en su discurso a la Conferencia Mundial sobre el desarrollo a medida en masa y la personalización, el MIT, de octubre de 2007. <br />
<br />
Si va a un extraño en la calle y le pide que le dé las llaves de su coche, usted recibirá una respuesta brusca y poco útil. En cambio si va a un extraño en la calle y le pide que le de su idea más interesante, quince minutos más tarde, echando un vistazo a su reloj, se verá haciendo ficticios investos en odontología. Esto impulsa una profunda pregunta sobre nuestra biología: si la información es una propiedad con valor, ¿cuál es la ventaja selectiva darwiniana en el permanente impulso a regalarla?<br />
<br />
La respuesta fue elaborada hace unos años por el psicólogo evolucionista Geoffrey Miller. Se dio cuenta de que la mente humana no acaba de evolucionar solo como un dispositivo de resolución de problemas, también está desarrollada por la selección sexual - al igual que la cola del pavo real - es un despilfarro de recursos de una manera que no se puede falsificar. Las hembras admiran los pavos reales con las colas de lujo [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga], ya que esos pavos son lo suficientemente fuertes como para tener excedente de alimentos necesarios para hacer crecer la cola y poder portarla. Ese pavo real que tiene buenos genes para la resistencia, el crecimiento y la fuerza, por lo que el apareamiento vale la pena con él. <br />
<br />
Partes de la mente humana son para desperdiciar la glucosa de una manera que no se puede falsificar. En su el cerebro invierte alrededor del 20% de su gasto de energía del cuerpo cada segundo de su vida. Usted no puede pretender a pintar una imagen así, o pretendo escribir un cuarteto pentasilabo bien - no se puede pretender ser ingenioso. Es necesario tener excedentes reales de glucosa para hacer esas cosas, todas las cuales no tienen ningún valor utilitario. <br />
<br />
"Pero esperad," dice usted. "Si eso fuera así, entonces usted podría esperar sólo a los hombres a ser talentosos, ya que trabaja a través de la selección sexual de las mujeres el poder elegir la mejor selección de hombres. Pero todos, excepto los más fanáticos puede ver que las mujeres son tan inteligentes que los hombres." <br />
<br />
Es cierto, por lo general: es el pavo que se evoluciona alrededor de la cola y los ciervos que se han de celebrar las astas arriba. Pero, a elegir entre ellos, y la hembra en celo sólo necesita de una buena vista, mientras que la única forma de una mujer para juzgar si es un hombre inteligente es serlo ella al igual - el dispositivo de transmisión y el dispositivo receptor son el mismo: su mente. Por esta razón, las más importante de cuatro letras en los corazones solitarios-son columnas GSOH, ¿por qué los músicos, pintores, autores y actores (todos los que no hacen nada realmente útil, aunque empleando en ello una gran energía mental) son tan atractivas para el sexo opuesto, ¿por qué directores de banco, ingenieros y programadores de computadoras (que no pierden su intelecto, sino que lo utiliza para cosas remuneradas) se considera soso y poco atractivo, y por qué todos queremos decirle a la gente cualquier idea que se nos ocurre desde el momento en que entra en nuestra cabeza. Mostrando inteligencia dispersando ideas una de las principales cosas las que están hechos nuestros cerebros. <br />
<br />
<br />
Si Alice da un objeto material a Bob, Alice ya no tiene el objeto. Pero si Alice da una idea a Bob, Alice sigue conservando la idea. La información - a diferencia de la materia y la energía - se conserva. Por eso, cuando los adolescentes se intercambian archivos de música, no sienten instintivamente que es robo. En consecuencia, es - en realidad – que ya no hay derechos de autor en la música grabada; cada adolescente, tiene veinte gigabytes de archivos MP3 ilegales en su disco duro, y en el cine y el vídeo se va por la misma vía. <br />
<br />
El concepto de la propiedad intelectual sólo es estable cuando la copia es difícil y las sanciones legales significan pérdidas significativas para los que copian. Vasta con hacer fácil de copiar y indetectable (como con la música) y la idea misma de la propiedad intelectual comienza a desaparecer. <br />
<br />
Pero la creatividad no se desvanece con ella. Ahora hay una efusión de la música por todo el mundo sin igual desde que a finales del siglo XVIII en Viena. Esto sucede porque la misma tecnología que en la música elimina los derechos de autor permite que cualquier persona hacer música y tratar de encontrar una audiencia para ella. La mayoría de los músicos no componer porque han calculado racionalmente que es una buena manera de hacerse rico, componen ya que son impulsados por una compulsión interna. Y una compulsión interior es exactamente lo que usted esperaría de un evolutivamente seleccionado rasgo apareamiento. <br />
<br />
Por lo tanto, el derecho de autor es sobrepasado de lejos en relación con el doble de brotes provocados por la facilidad de la copia y la gente en el deseo de dar sus creaciones en vez de guardarlas en un lugar oscuro. ¿Pero qué hay de las patentes? Copiar un iPod no es tan fácil como copiar música en él. <br />
Sin embargo, la impresión 3D puede reemplazar completamente vastas áreas de los procesos de fabricación convencionales, ya que resulta menos costoso. Y a lo que va conducir realmente a esto más allá de las palabras es que las impresoras 3D puedan imprimir otras, al igual que RepRap. Los sistemas convencionales de fabricación producen mercancías en una progresión aritmética. Pero autocopiador produce mercancías - y a ella misma - en una progresión geométrica. Y, no importa lo lento que es, cualquier progresión geométrica sobrepasa cada progresión aritmética, no importa a qué velocidad, solo con el tiempo. <br />
<br />
La autocopiadota, impresora 3D será algo lo suficientemente barato para que las personas la posean y que puedan ser algo ejemplar para sus amigos. Cuando todo el mundo puede imprimir prácticamente cualquier dispositivo o máquina, lo mismo que pasaba con las ideas va a suceder con las patentes, como ha sucedido con la música de autor. <br />
<br />
La ingeniería llega a nuestras casas. Tenemos a particulares trabajando en la construcción de naves espaciales en cobertizos y para ganar ''Anousheh Ansari X-Prize''. Tenemos a particulares desarrollando reactores de fusión de deuterio en sus sótanos. Hemos llegado a un punto en la historia donde la tecnología más avanzada es sucia y barata. <br />
<br />
La Autocopiadora dará un orden de magnitud más barato nuevamente, y finalmente matará la idea de la propiedad intelectual. Pero - al igual que con los ordenadores y la música - también ampliará la creatividad, porque la gente no creara cosas para hacer dinero, la verdadera razón por la que se crean cosas es para las otras personas con las que quieren tener hijos...<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Este texto aparece de forma original en: ''Time Compression Technology Magazine'', volumen 15, capítulo 3, página 33, en junio de 2007.<br />
<br />
Texto de Adrian Bowyer, 26 de junio de 2007.<br />
<br />
Traducido por Guillermo Gago Doreste, 6 de junio 2009.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Community/es]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRapPro_Mendel_power_supply&diff=85151RepRapPro Mendel power supply2013-03-07T12:25:34Z<p>Ipinson: /* Safety */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RepRapPro_Mendel_Contents}}<br />
<br />
=Goal=<br />
<br />
By the end of this step your power supply should look like this:<br />
<br />
[[Image:reprappro-mendel-ps-finished.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
=Safety=<br />
<br />
RepRapPro Mendel works entirely at low voltage, and there is no danger in putting a finger on any part of the circuitry on the machine itself (though remember some parts are hot).<br />
<br />
But the power supply necessarily involves a few mains wires. Mains will kill you if you touch it. So don't.<br />
<br />
There are six soldered mains connections in the power supply. If you are not sure about mains wiring, or your soldering is blobby, prone to dry joints, or in any way un-neat, then '''get someone who knows what they are doing to help you with the work on this page'''.<br />
<br />
When doing all wiring make sure that connections have no stray wire filaments that may short on neighbouring parts. <br />
<br />
Bare the ends of wires, twist them [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga], check for a neat twist with no strays, and then finally tin them. <br />
<br />
This is important on the next page (wiring up the machine), but it is really important for wiring the power supply here. The power supply works with both large voltages and large currents, and so careful, tidy work is essential.<br />
<br />
=Tools=<br />
<br />
You will need the following tools:<br />
<br />
# M3 Allen key<br />
# Cross-head screwdriver<br />
# Tweezers<br />
# Multimeter<br />
# Soldering iron and solder<br />
<br />
=Parts=<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Hardware''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|rowspan="15"|[[File:reprappro-mendel-ps-parts.jpg|300px]]<br />
|-<br />
|12v Power supply<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|20A wire<br />
|1m<br />
|-<br />
|Mains cable (not shown)<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|XLR socket<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|Printed cover<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|Mains panel plug<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|LNE mains wires<br />
|100mm<br />
|-<br />
|M3 washers<br />
|8<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nuts<br />
|3 <br />
|-<br />
|heatshrink<br />
|50mm<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 8mm screws<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 20mm screw<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 16mm screw<br />
|1<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Note that sometimes the three mains wires are supplied as a cut length of mains flex. Simply pull the three wires from the outer coating.<br />
<br />
The 20A wire is the piece you have left over from building the heated bed. Take a look at the [[RepRapPro_Mendel_wiring|wiring page]] and run it along the route it will take from the XLR connector to the controller board. Cut off a piece that is a little too long for that job (you don't want to find it's too short...), and use the remainder for the power supply.<br />
<br />
=Mains voltage=<br />
<br />
[[Image:reprappro-mendel-ps-mains-voltage.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Set the mains voltage for your country. The switch, shown above, is set to 220 volts when the power supply is shipped. This is the fail-safe setting: if you plug the supply into a lower mains voltage it won't work properly, but it will do no harm.<br />
<br />
If your country has mains at 110 volts, flip the switch.<br />
<br />
Some power supplies are universal - they are designed to work with any mains voltage found in the world. Read the label. For universal supplies there is no switch to set.<br />
<br />
=Construction=<br />
<br />
==Step 1: Initial wiring==<br />
<br />
[[Image:reprappro-mendel-ps-panel-plug.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Start by soldering the mains wires onto the panel-mounting plug. The picture above shows European-convention wiring colours: Brown=Live, Blue=Neutral, and Green-yellow=Ground-Earth. The back of the plug has L, N and the symbol for Ground embossed next to the appropriate connection.<br />
<br />
Different countries have different conventions on this, of course. The best way to get things right is to connect your mains wire into this plug '''but not to the mains'''. Then use your meter to check which terminals on the plug the live and neutral pins on the end of the lead that will plug into the wall socket go to.<br />
<br />
When you have soldered the short wires, insulate your joints with short lengths of heatshrink.<br />
<br />
[[Image:reprappro-mendel-ps-panel.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Attach the mains plug to the printed panel with the two short screws, two nuts and four washers. You may find that the holes in the plug are slightly undersized (though the specification says 3mm). This does not matter: screw the screws in and use them to cut threads in the plastic - this will give a more secure construction. Then put the washers and nuts on the back.<br />
<br />
Put the thick low-voltage wire through its cable grip so it projects by about 100mm. Secure the grip with the 16mm screw, two washers and a nut. Getting the washer under the screw head in is a bit fiddly - you will probably have to use tweezers.<br />
<br />
Don't tighten the grip excessively. Just do the screw up enough to secure the cable so it can't slip.<br />
<br />
Split the low-voltage wire into two leads.<br />
<br />
==Step 2: Connect the power supply== <br />
<br />
[[Image:reprappro-mendel-ps-contacts.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Remove all the contact screws from the power supply except the one on the extreme right in the picture.<br />
<br />
Then remove the screw that holds the case together (where the screwdriver in the picture is). Set that aside for use later.<br />
<br />
Next, strip, twist and bend the wires. Check lengths and fit before you tin.<br />
<br />
For the live and neutral: form the ends into a U that will fit in the connector and be secured by one of the screws.<br />
<br />
For the Ground wire and the two fat low-voltage wires, split the filaments of each end into two equal bundles, twist those separately, then form each of them into a U that will fit in the connector and be secured by one of the screws.<br />
<br />
When you are happy that everything fits neatly, tin all the ends.<br />
<br />
Screw the Live, Neutral, and one leg of the Ground wire to the labelled connectors.<br />
<br />
Screw the other leg of the Ground wire to the COM or -V terminal next to Ground. This is important: it is the connection that earths all the wiring in your machine.<br />
<br />
Screw the two Us of the low-voltage wire with the stripe into the two other COM or -V connections.<br />
<br />
Screw the two Us of the low-voltage wire with no stripe into the two +V connections.<br />
<br />
[[Image:reprappro-mendel-ps-wired.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
If the tail ends of the Us stick out, trim them with side-cutters. Take care where the cut pieces go - you don't want them shorting out parts of the power supply.<br />
<br />
Finally put the 20mm screw with a washer under its head into the hole in the block on the left as shown and attach the cover to the power supply.<br />
<br />
Take care to tuck the wires neatly inside. You may have to flatten the mains wires so that they lie in the plane of the back face of the plug.<br />
<br />
Use the 20mm screw to secure the cover where you removed the short cover screw before. Use that short cover screw with a washer to secure the other end of the cover to the threded hole in the power supply case.<br />
<br />
==Step 3: The XLR socket==<br />
<br />
[[Image:reprappro-mendel-ps-xlr-wiring.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Put the shell of the XLR connector onto the low-voltage wire.<br />
<br />
The picture shows the ground wire connected, and the +12V wires ready to connect.<br />
<br />
Separate and strip the ends. Once more divide the ends into two equal bundles, then twist each bundle.<br />
<br />
Pin numbers are marked on the back of the socket.<br />
<br />
The Ground wire (with the black stripe) goes to Pin 1 of the socket and the tab on the outer case.<br />
<br />
The +12V wire (plain white - no stripe) goes to pins 2 and 3.<br />
<br />
Push the twisted bundle down the connector (the hole goes quite deep). Give each one a good generous amount of solder.<br />
<br />
For the Ground/Tab connection, simply push the wire through and solder it as shown in the picture. Then cut off the excess wire with side cutters.<br />
<br />
Screw the shell onto the socket. Hold the wire still so that the turning action doesn't twist it up inside.<br />
<br />
=Step 4: Testing=<br />
<br />
'''If any of these tests don't work, stop, unplug everything, and find the fault before going on.'''<br />
<br />
Switch your meter to measure resistance.<br />
<br />
Plug the mains wire into the power supply '''but not into the mains yet'''.<br />
<br />
'''Important: Check the resistance between the Ground pin on the mains plug and the metal case of the supply. This should be 0 ohms.'''<br />
<br />
Check the resistance between the Ground pin on the mains plug and Pin 1 of the XLR socket. This should be 0 ohms.<br />
<br />
Check the resistances between the case and the Live and Neutral pins of the plug. These should be infinite.<br />
<br />
Switch your meter to measure DC voltage.<br />
<br />
Put the Ground or Common meter probe in Pin 1 of the XLR socket and the Volts-Ohms-Amps probe into Pin 3.<br />
<br />
Plug the mains lead into a socket and switch on the power.<br />
<br />
The meter should read +12V plus or minus about 0.3 volts.<br />
<br />
=Next step=<br />
<br />
[[RepRapPro_Mendel_wiring|Wiring]] <br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Build_Instructions]]<br />
[[Category:RepRapPro]]<br />
[[Category:Mendel]]<br />
[[Category:Mendel_Development]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Combinatorics_Problem&diff=85150Combinatorics Problem2013-03-07T12:25:25Z<p>Ipinson: /* bacteria-style evolution */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{merge|DocumentationMain}}<br />
Working Notes, please edit.<br />
<br />
The Combinatorics Problem, relative to the RepRap project, deals with the tremendous amount of variation that happen in the project because of it's nature. There are many goals of the project, and many needs of the userbase. Because of this, it's very difficult to address all the needs and goals of all users involved. Hopefully we'll be able to find solutions to the ever-expanding amount of information and how to properly document it.<br />
<br />
=Stack=<br />
==Documentation Solution==<br />
The Stack template is one solution to this:<br />
[[Template:Stack]]<br />
<br />
(Work in Progress)<br />
--[[User:Sebastien Bailard|Sebastien Bailard]]<br />
<br />
==Personal and individual user solution==<br />
We need a solution for each user. This may be a paper or text file copy of the the Stack Template?<br />
<br />
==Definition==<br />
A "Stack" is a current and hopefully working software and machine configuration, that exists on the desktop of a user. The "RepRap Stack" is the software and machine configuration we guarantee will work. All other stacks are "Stuff that needs more research and documentation".<br />
<br />
The particular RepRap or RepStrap system on someone's desk can be (conceptually) divided into a stack of regions or "layers".<br />
Usually a layer of the stack only touches and communicates to two other layers, the layers "above" and "below" it, with (hopefully) well-structured and well-documented interfaces.<br />
<br />
Note: I may want to rewrite all of this as the "RepRap Stack", and other "Stacks". The RepRap Stack is guaranteed to work. Everything else is ongoing research, todo notes, abandonware, and so on. I'm not sure where the action items are yet. Besides "make the website better".--[[User:Sebastien Bailard|Sebastien Bailard]] 02:52, 14 February 2010 (UTC)<br />
<br />
Presenting and maintaining a "RepRap Stack" of modules that work together is a crucial RepRap developer responsibility. As is documentation. Mind you, I might be working on an [[Eiffel]], [[BitBanger]], Extruder-and-Spindle aka [[Shape Deposition Manufacturing]] (SDM), and [[EMCRepRap|EMC]] Stack 50% of the time.<br />
<br />
This is much easier with the Linux kernel, gnu tool chain, Filesystem Hierarchy Standard directory structure, X window software, KDE Desktop, and Firefox browser that I'm using right now, aka my "Browser Stack".<br />
<br />
But helping maintain the wiki that we use to sort this all out is the responsibility of all of us.<br />
<br />
Deleting everything but the current working Sat Feb 13 22:13:21 EST 2010 RepRap Stack is silly.<br />
<br />
<br />
== bacteria-style evolution ==<br />
<br />
The way RepRap developers collaborate to design new, improved machines is similar to some models of bacteria-style evolution.[http://www.3dreplicators.com/cgi-bin/cblog/index.php?/archives/499-After-Darwin-Should-Mendel-be-a-specific-3D-printer-or-a-technology-toolbox.html]<br />
<br />
There are so many people involved in RepRap that every part of the stack is under research and development and simultaneously being improved by someone, somewhere.<br />
<br />
One method of improvement is obvious: someone thinks up a different way to make something -- generally inside one layer of the stack, perhaps "merely" a little incremental improvement -- and does some cutting-edge research and development to see if it works better(*) that way than the previous known-working way in the RepRap stack.<br />
<br />
A second method of improvement is not so obvious: someone gathers up a bunch of cutting-edge developments and confirms that they "play nice with each other" -- alas, occasionally they don't.<br />
<br />
To make both methods easier, we try to design (hopefully) well-structured and well-documented interfaces, so it's easy to pull out any one layer and slide in a (hopefully better) layer.<br />
We want to make upgrading more [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] like replacing an incandescent light bulb with a fluorescent light bulb, less like replacing the stock engine out of a Volkswagen Beetle with the kind of engine that the winner of the most recent Formula One race used.<br />
<br />
We design little incremental improvements in terms of changing one layer -- or changing 2 layers and the interface between them -- not because anyone ever wants to upgrade only one or two layers and stop there, but because this design method is the fastest way we know of to develop a completely new known-working RepRap stack that is better in every way.<br />
<br />
(*)"Better" in many different ways:<br />
higher precision and bigger build volume,<br />
faster print times,<br />
faster assembly and calibration time by relatively inexperienced potential new RepRap owner,<br />
faster [[World Domination#doubling time |doubling time]],<br />
better interfaces to accelerate future improvements (perhaps by slicing a previously monolithic layer into two layers to make it easier to improve each one independently),<br />
lower net cost to a potential RepRap owner (perhaps by merging two layers to reduce interface costs),<br />
etc.<br />
<br />
See [[Development Pathway]] and [[Style Guide]] and [[Education#Pedagogical Goals]] for very broad areas of potential improvements, [[ideas to place]] for very specific ideas for improvement.<br />
<br />
==Documentation==<br />
*New user-developers can't do this unless each step has been documented.<br />
*Experienced user-developers would rather research and develop than document. If they are documenting and uploading parts files, which, happily, does happen, then it is unreasonable for them to support other combinations besides their [[Snapshot]]<br />
*Entrepreneur user-developers want to sell one set of Mendel parts, or 50000 sets of electronics, filament, *Mendel vitamins and need RepRap to do documentation and support.<br />
<br />
=Examples=<br />
User 1 uses w0, x0, y0, z0.<br />
User 2 uses w1, x1, y1, z1.<br />
...<br />
User 134533 uses w4, x2, y_not, z5.<br />
<br />
Here is a list of all the layers of a stack.<br />
For convenience, we order the layers in order of data flow through the system.<br />
<br />
For each layer, we ''(fixme: not yet true -- please edit this page to make this true)'' first list the current "known-working" version of that layer (in the RepRap Stack), followed by other alternatives in no particular order.<br />
<br />
==File Source==<br />
[[Scanning]], [[SplineScan]], [[Scanning Spindle]], [[SplineScan Cabinet]], [[SplineScan HandHeld Scanner]], [[RBS]], [[Library]], [[Other Spaces]], [[Useful Software Packages#2D and 3D CAD software|CAD Program]], [[Modeling Program]]<br />
<br />
We archive an easily editable ("source") file in one of many [[File Formats]], sometimes including formulas that document "design intent".<br />
Then, as needed, we "export" the data from that file into a temporary [[STL]] file to feed into the next stage.<br />
<br />
==Committee for Deletionism and Self-Censorship==<br />
[[Committee for Deletionism and Self-Censorship]] is the official Library committee for Deleting other machines or Self-[[Censoring]] parts files and [[RepStraps]] that "might make things too confusing".<br />
== CAM Tools ==<br />
: ''main article: [[RepRap_Options#CAM_Tools]]''<br />
<br />
=== Host software ===<br />
[[Installing RepRap on your computer]],<br />
[[Builders/Alternative host software]]<br />
<br />
===Slicer===<br />
Adrian-Slicer, Povray, Blender?, Rhino<br />
''(Huh? Can you really use POVray as a slicer?)''<br />
<br />
The slicer slices up the 3D model into a series of 2D slices, and does tool path generation for each slice.<br />
It does the conversion between [[STL]] and [[G-code]].<br />
See [[Useful Software Packages#Software for dealing with STL files]] for the latest list.<br />
<br />
===Tool Path Generation===<br />
[[Mendel User Manual: Host Software]] (is this the same as [[DriverSoftware]]?),<br />
[[Skeinforge]]<br />
<br />
==Machine Controller Software==<br />
[[Microcontroller firmware installation]],<br />
[[EMC]], [[Replicator G]]<br />
<br />
==Machine Controller Electronics==<br />
<br />
: ''Main article: [[:Category:Electronics]]''.<br />
<br />
[[UBW32 Blue Banana Electronics]],<br />
[[BitBanger]], [[RoboOne Controller]]<br />
,<br />
[[Vaporware Electronics]]<br />
<br />
==3-Axis Positioning System==<br />
<br />
: ''Main article: [[:Category:DriveTrains]]''.<br />
<br />
See [[Alt Select Mechanics]].<br />
<br />
[[Darwin]], [[Mendel]], [[Builders/LaserCut RepStraps]], [[CNCRouterCut RepStrap]], [[RepOlaRap]], [[Delta]], [[MillStrap]], [[Eiffel]], [[LeCorb]], [[Unnamed PourStrap Named After Architect who Pioneered Prefab Poured Concrete Stuff]] , [[Sarrus Z Linkage]]<br />
, [[Alternative Rails]]<br />
<br />
==Technology==<br />
: ''Main article: [[:Category:Toolheads]]''<br />
[[Extruder]] aka [[Fused Filament Fabrication]], [[:Category:Spindle]], [[Laser Cutter]], [[Inkjet]], [[:category:powder|Powder Print]], [[SpoolHead]], [[Vinyl Cutter]]<br />
<br />
In the case of the extruder, this layer can be further sub-divided:<br />
An extruder can be built from the combination of any [[Cold End]] and any [[Hot End]]. <br />
<br />
==Material==<br />
[[epoxy granite]], [[Thermoplastic]], [[:category:powder]],<br />
[[:category:acrylic|acrylic]],<br />
[[:category:aluminum|aluminum]]<br />
<br />
==Finishing==<br />
[[Furnace]], [[Microwave Sintering]], [[Pewter Casting]], [[Bronze Casting]], [[Ceramic Kiln]]<br />
[[:Category:Casting]]<br />
<br />
=Table=<br />
All the stuff above could be in a set of autonomous columns. It's a slot machine (or Enigma device) really.<br />
<br />
Note: It will be fun to do this as a 'Slot Machine'-type desktop toy.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Community]]<br />
[[Category:Principles]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel_Wide_Belts&diff=85149Prusa Mendel Wide Belts2013-03-07T12:25:10Z<p>Ipinson: /* Performance */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Prusa_Mendel Development]]<br />
<br />
=Modification: 10mm wide belts for driving the X and Y axies=<br />
<br />
==Description==<br />
<br />
The X and Y axes of a Prusa Mendel are positioned by timing belts driven by stepper motors. On a standard Prusa Mendel, these belts are 5mm wide, and are often made of rubber with glass fibre tension members.<br />
<br />
This modification replaces the standard belts with 10mm wide AT5 belts made of Polyurethane with steel tension members.These are much less stretchy.<br />
<br />
===Advantages of modification===<br />
<br />
====Availability====<br />
<br />
10mm wide belts and pulleys are easy to find as standard items (unlike 5mm) for many tooth pitches of timing belt. This avoids the need to split belts and allows the use of machined pulleys (instead of printed ones).<br />
<br />
Using 10mm wide belts allows the constructor to choose from a wider range of belt materials and tooth profiles.<br />
<br />
====Performance====<br />
<br />
Stiffer (less stretchy) belts tend to allow more accurate positioning.<br />
<br />
Other things being equal, belt stiffness is proportional to width. Using wider belts also makes it possible to use heavier types of belt, which are stiffer still.<br />
<br />
Stepper motors apply enough torque to stretch drive belts by a non-trivial distance (I calculate a maximum of ~0.8mm for a typical 5mm glass fibre & rubber belt). This decreases the accuracy of the print at corners and holes, and can cause "ripples" in prints after as the print head bounces back [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] and forth on the belt after a sudden acceleration. Stretch errors are proportional to belt stretchiness. The 10mm AT5 belt used in the prototype should stretch at most ~0.2mm. <br />
<br />
Non-zero friction on the axis guides leads to stick-slip positioning errors, which also decrease as the stiffness of the belt increases.<br />
<br />
===Disadvantages of modification===<br />
<br />
====Lower Acceleration====<br />
<br />
Wider belts are more massive ("heavier"). For a given force, acceleration is inversely proportional to mass. If the belt is thicker, then it also has a larger minimum bend radius, which means larger drive pulley on the motor, and so lower force for a given motor torque.<br />
<br />
The extra mass is only a very small disadvantage, because the belt is only a very small part of the moving mass (most of it is the build bed or extruder), so doubling the mass of the belt only increases the total moving mass by a few %.<br />
<br />
Additionally, larger drive pulleys allow a higher maximum speed, and (since stepper torque drops off fast with rpm) more torque at any given speed, which counteracts the reduction in acceleration due to reduced leverage.<br />
<br />
On my prototype, X and Y speeds of >250mm/s are possible, with acceleration to full speed over a few mm.<br />
<br />
====Cost====<br />
<br />
More belt material tends to cost more money. However, the belts are a small part of the cost of the printer, and the extra few $ is a small price to pay for better performance. Also, time and effort are worth something, and avoiding the need to split belts saves both.<br />
<br />
==Assembly==<br />
<br />
The belt idler pulleys need to be made wider in order to support the wider belts. This can be achieved with a printed idler on a single 608ZZ bearing, or by putting two bearings side by side.<br />
<br />
Note that the Y belt is slightly shorter than the X belt.<br />
<br />
===Y Axis===<br />
<br />
Because the belt is wider, there is no room on most motor shafts to have the motor away from the idler. Follow the the standard build instructions for the Y axis, except:<br />
* omit the optional nut and two of the small washers between the idler and motor mount.<br />
* place two 608ZZ bearings between the mudguard washers, instead of one.<br />
<br />
Additionally, if you have them, you can improve the belt geometry by adding a stack of stand-offs between the Y carriage and the open belt ends. This means that the belt moves parallel to the carriage guides, and keeps the steps per mm of travel constant along the entire travel of the carriage.<br />
<br />
[[File:Prusa-y-with-wide-belts-and-standoffs.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Prusa-y-with-wide-belts-and-standoffs-motor.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===X Axis===<br />
<br />
The X axis belt mountings are too short on the standard carriage, so the printed carriage needs to be modified or belt mount extenders must be used.<br />
<br />
[[File:Prusa-x-with-wide-belts-double-bearing-idler.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Prusa-x-with-wide-belts-cnc-mount-extenders.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===Belt Tension===<br />
<br />
In order to take best advantage of the stiffer belts, they should be quite tight. It also takes more tension to pull them snugly against the pulleys. For best results, tightly clamp one end and thread the other end of the belt loosely through its clamp. Then pull the loose end with mole grips or pliers to get the tension and tighten the clamp.</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=PonokoYAxisAssembly&diff=85148PonokoYAxisAssembly2013-03-07T12:24:58Z<p>Ipinson: /* Making the Ponoko RepRap Y Axis Assemblies */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Making the Ponoko RepRap Y Axis Assemblies ==<br />
<table><br />
<tr><td></td><td>[PonokoRepRap Main Ponoko Page]</td></tr><br />
<br />
<tr><td>[[PonokoUpperCornerAssembly|Prev Step]]</td><td></td><td>[[PonokoFrameBaseAssembly|Next Step]]</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>[[PonokoBOM#PonokoYAxisAssembly|BOM for this page]]</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoYAxisAssembly-dsc04445.jpg|thumb]]<br />
The Y Axis is the one that moves the X Axis assembly back and forth. There are three main components: Y Idlers and the Y Motor Assembly. The Y Idlers are possibly the [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] simplest of all the RepRap assemblies to make, so we'll start with them. You'll need to make two.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoYAxisAssembly-dsc04441.jpg|thumb]]<br />
This is the collection of parts that you need to build a Y Idler Assembly (you'll need two of them):<br />
* A M8 70mm bolt (or as pictured, 70mm of M8 studding)<br />
* One M8 nut (or if you're using studding, two)<br />
* One M8 Nyloc nut<br />
* Four M8 washers<br />
* One 608 bearing.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoYAxisAssembly-dsc04442.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<repeat count="2"><br />
Attach the Idler Mount to the axle. If using a <part a="ifbolt">M8 70mm bolt</part>, put the head to the left. If <part a="ifstudding">M8 70mm studding</part>, screw a <part a="ifstudding">M8 nut</part> onto it. Then in this order, <part p="M8">washer</part>, Idler Mount, another Idler Mount, <part p="M8">washer</part>, <part p="M8">nut</part>.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoYAxisAssembly-dsc04443.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Attach the Y Idler Bearing to the axle loosely. Add to the M8 stack a <part p="M8">washer</part>, a 3mm disc laser-labelled with Y1D, the <part>608Z skate bearing</part>, another 3mm disc, a <part p="M8">washer</part>, and finally the <part p="M8">nyloc nut</part>. Make another one and set these aside.<br />
</repeat><br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoYAxisAssembly-dsc04446.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Parts for the Y Drive Rod Assembly:<br />
* 500mm M8 studding<br />
* 4 M8 washers<br />
* 4 M8 nuts<br />
* 2 ball chain gears<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoYAxisAssembly-dsc04447.jpg|thumb]]You'll need a <part>M8 500mm studding</part>.<br />
Screw one <part p="M8">nut</part> down the studding until about 45mm of thread remains. Slide down a <part p="M8">washer</part>, the ball chain gear, another <part p="M8">washer</part>, run a <part p="M8">nut</part> down, slide a <part p="608Z">skate bearing</part> down to the nut, and follow it with another <part p="M8">nut</part> (see the next photo for the bearing and nut). Make it finger-tight.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoYAxisAssembly-dsc04455.jpg|thumb]]<br />
On the other end of the rod build the same assembly: Screw one <part p="M8">nut</part> down the studding until about 45mm of thread remains. Slide down a <part p="M8">washer</part>, the ball chain gear, another <part p="M8">washer</part>, run a <part p="M8">nut</part> down, slide a <part p="608Z">skate bearing</part> down to the nut, and follow it with another <part p="M8">nut</part>.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoYAxisAssembly-dsc04456.jpg|thumb]]<br />
There are three lasercut pieces needed here. Put <part p="4 M3">washer</part>s on <part>four M3 30mm screw</part>s and insert them into the 5mm Y Bearing part with the large (bearing-sized) hole, then the 3mm Y Bearing part. There will be a gap here where 8mm posts will go, then the 5mm Y Bearing part with the small (slightly larger than 8mm) hole. Slide on <part p="4 M3">washer</part>s and <part p="4 M3">nut</part>s. Screw them on just far enough that they won't fall off, for now.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoYAxisAssembly-dsc04457.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Slide the Y Drive Rod's bearing into the hole in the Y Bearing Assembly.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoYAxisAssembly-dsc04449.jpg|thumb]]<br />
The Y Motor Mount.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoYAxisAssembly-dsc04458.jpg|thumb]]<br />
The Y Motor hangs off the end of this assembly. When you make the second Y Motor Mount (<part p="four M3 30mm">screw</part>s, <part p="4 M3">washer</part>s, and <part p="4 M3">nut</part>s) attach the Y Motor Mount to the end. Set this aside for the PonokoRepRapXAxisAssembly step.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
<table><br />
<tr><td></td><td>[PonokoRepRap Main Ponoko Page]</td></tr><br />
<br />
<tr><td>[[PonokoUpperCornerAssembly|Prev Step]]</td><td></td><td>[[PonokoFrameBaseAssembly|Next Step]]</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
-- Main.VikOlliver - 14 Nov 2008<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ponoko]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Simple_Y_tensioner&diff=85147Simple Y tensioner2013-03-07T12:24:43Z<p>Ipinson: /* Assembly */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Simple Y-Axis Tensioner<br />
|status = experimental<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = prusa-simple-Y-tensioner.jpg|200px<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Simple Y-Axis tensioner with easy access from left-after-build materials for reprap Prusa Mendel.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = YuriKryvosheyev<br />
|categories = Development<br />
}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Prusa_Mendel Development]]<br />
[[Category:development]]<br />
<br />
=Simple Y axis tensioner with better access=<br />
<br />
==Description==<br />
<br />
The standard Y belts clamps are under top printing bed with complicated access. Trying to adjust the tension just to build another tensioner leads to this solution.<br />
<br />
[[File:prusa-simple-Y-tensioner.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
===Advantages===<br />
<br />
All parts that are usually left after build of Mendel Prusa.<br />
Straighten the belt to plate loop and increases angle over idler. <br />
Easy access for adjustments.<br />
<br />
===Disadvantages===<br />
<br />
Possible slight loss of Y axis resolution due to movement of tensioner on zip ties.<br />
Adds some resitance.<br />
May be looks not very pretty.<br />
<br />
==Assembly==<br />
<br />
I think the picture is self-descriptive, but anyway:<br />
<br />
Parts needed:<br />
* 1 x ~45mm of 8mm screw rod<br />
* 4 x M8 nuts<br />
* 2 x 8mm washers<br />
* 2 x mud washers<br />
* 1 x 802 bearing<br />
* 2 x long nylon zip tie (cable tie)<br />
<br />
Screw or put on rod: M8 nut, 2-3mm space, M8 nut, mud washer, 8mm washer, 802 bearing, 8mm washer, mud washer, M8 nut, 2-3mm space, M8 nut.<br />
Slightly tight the nuts around bearing.<br />
Place on bottom loop of Y belt near idler and tie [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] using zip ties to lower frame screw under the idler.<br />
I leave the ends of zip tie free and adjusting the tension as needed.<br />
<br />
=Alternate Methods=<br />
<br />
This is an incredibly simple fix and can work for both the X and Y axis when you have just a small amount of slack in your belts. <br />
<br />
Take a piece of masking tape just a few inches long and barely wide enough to cover the bearings themselves and feed it between the bearing and the belt with the adhesive side facing the bearing and slide the axis while feeding the tape onto the surface of the bearing, make sure you do at least one full loop so that it will stay in place. <br />
<br />
This will increase the outer diameter of the bearing slightly and help remove any slack that you may have in that axis. <br />
<br />
Get the belts as tight as you can before you do this, its no substitute to having your printer setup and adjusted correctly. While its kind of a hack, you can do this for both X and Y and it may help tighten and snug things up if you are experiencing intermittent slippage during your prints. <br />
<br />
Don't worry so much about how cleanly or tightly its applied to the bearings since its likely to actually deform and look like a drive pulley after a few minutes of usage.</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RamboLCD&diff=85143RamboLCD2013-03-07T12:21:37Z<p>Ipinson: /* Step 1: Making the cables */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = RAMBoLCD<br />
|status = Working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = rampslcd.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Hook up an LCD display to RAMBo<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = johnoly99 / os1r1s<br />
|reprap = none<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]],[[:Category:Prusa_Mendel Development|Prusa development]][[Category:Prusa Development]], [[:Category:Mendel Development|Mendel Development]][[Category:Mendel Development]]<br />
|cadModel = <br />
|url = <br />
}}<br />
This page will help you set up the reprapdiscount.com Smart LCD controller to work on the [[RAMBo]] boards by UltiMachine. You will find all the instructions needed here to modify the cables (for now, until the adapter PCB is born), firmware mods, [[arduino]] mods and more to get your LCD controller working. <br />
<br />
This has been tested on REVD and REVE boards from UltiMachine. There is an adapter PCB in the works hopefully soon (Dec. 2012) that will use the standard cables shipped with the smart controller, so no more wiring hacks will be needed. Until then, follow the simple steps below to make your own wiring adapter<br />
<br />
[[file:Rambolcd2.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
The following file was created by [[user:os1r1s]] and is a great guide to have handy while setting up your LCD controller. It's a good reference to go with the instructions below.<br />
<br />
[[Media:Rambo-LCD.pdf]]<br />
{{clear}}<br />
== Step 1: Making the cables ==<br />
<br />
This step involves modifying two of the 10-pin ribbon cables supplied with the smart LCD controller. Depending on the length of cable you need, you may be able to just use one of the long cables and simply cut it in half to make the two cables needed. You will end up with two cables with [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] the black connector on one end, and the other ends will be soldered onto the connectors. This step will be eliminated once the adapter PCB is done.<br />
<br />
The two ribbon cables supplied with the smart LCD have one red wire on one side of the cable. That is wire 10, so anywhere you see a wire label called out, you can start at the red wire (#10) and count back, or the opposite side (#1) and that will help you in wiring the cables. <br />
<br />
The smart LCD board has two connectors on the back. One is labeled EXP1 on the other is EXP2. EXP1 will also be called A in these instructions, and EXP2 will be called B<br />
<br />
[[File:rambolcd3.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Make up one 2X8 or 2X10 connector and one 2X4, if you don't have any, by using female header pins and super-gluing them together. Now, using the PDF, solder the wires coming from the smart LCD to the headers. Take note of the location of the U$2 and U$7 symbols on the RAMBo SPI and EXT pics, they are oriented on the board just as they are shown in the pictures. Remember, EXP1 is A in the PDF, and EXP2 is B, and that the red wires are wire number 10. When you are done, you should have two wires left unused, A9 and A10. Also, notice that in the pics, I used a 2X8 header on the EXT connector, so the first 2 rows of pins are exposed on the board. Notice the red wires orientation on the 2X4 pin connector going to the SPI header on the RAMBo. <br />
<br />
[[File:rambospi.jpg|500px]]<br />
[[File:ramboext2.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:rambolcd4.jpg|500px]]<br />
[[File:rambolcd5.jpg|500px|]]<br />
<br />
== Step 2: Updating your Arduino IDE ==<br />
<br />
This step has been tested and known to work with Arduino 0022 and 0023. If you try another version, and it works, post it here please.<br />
<br />
The Arduino IDE does not have all the pins mapped out because the MEGA 2560 boards didn't have them broken out and accessible. UltiMachine broke these un-used pins out knowing that one of us out there would find a use for them and a way to get at them eventually. So, we need to update a file in our Arduino IDE to show it how to talk to those pins. It sounds hard, but all you need to do is download the following zip file, extract the file named arduino_pins.c and copy it into <b>arduino-(yourversion)/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino</b><br />
<br />
[[file:update_arduino_pins.zip]]<br />
<br />
Go ahead and overwrite/replace the existing file, or if you'd like, rename the original file first to something like arduino_pins_ORIG.c then paste this file into the folder. That's it for updating your arduino IDE.<br />
<br />
== Step 3: Modifying your firmware ==<br />
<br />
=== For Marlin firmware ===<br />
<br />
Open up your marlin.pde and go to the fastio.h tab. Go down to line 1387 and copy/paste the following lines directly below the line that reads <b>#define DIO69_PWM NULL</b><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
#define DIO76_PIN PINJ5<br />
#define DIO76_RPORT PINJ<br />
#define DIO76_WPORT PORTJ<br />
#define DIO76_DDR DDRJ<br />
#define DIO76_PWM NULL<br />
#define DIO77_PIN PINJ6<br />
#define DIO77_RPORT PINJ<br />
#define DIO77_WPORT PORTJ<br />
#define DIO77_DDR DDRJ<br />
#define DIO77_PWM NULL<br />
#define DIO78_PIN PINE2<br />
#define DIO78_RPORT PINE<br />
#define DIO78_WPORT PORTE<br />
#define DIO78_DDR DDRE<br />
#define DIO78_PWM NULL<br />
#define DIO79_PIN PINE6<br />
#define DIO79_RPORT PINE<br />
#define DIO79_WPORT PORTE<br />
#define DIO79_DDR DDRE<br />
#define DIO79_PWM NULL<br />
#define DIO80_PIN PINE7<br />
#define DIO80_RPORT PINE<br />
#define DIO80_WPORT PORTE<br />
#define DIO80_DDR DDRE<br />
#define DIO80_PWM NULL<br />
#define DIO81_PIN PIND4<br />
#define DIO81_RPORT PIND<br />
#define DIO81_WPORT PORTD<br />
#define DIO81_DDR DDRD<br />
#define DIO81_PWM NULL<br />
<br />
Now save that file. Next open up the configuration.h file, and scroll down to about line 250. Make the changes so your firmware looks like what is below <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
//LCD and SD support<br />
// #define ULTRA_LCD //general lcd support, also 16x2<br />
// #define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console<br />
// #define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the ultimaker online store.<br />
#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse<br />
#ifdef ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //automatic expansion<br />
#define ULTIPANEL<br />
#define NEWPANEL<br />
#endif <br />
<br />
#ifdef ULTIPANEL<br />
#define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel<br />
#define SDSUPPORT<br />
#define ULTRA_LCD<br />
#define LCD_WIDTH 20<br />
#define LCD_HEIGHT 4<br />
<br />
// Preheat Constants<br />
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 170 <br />
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 60<br />
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 0 // Insert Value between 0 and 255<br />
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 240<br />
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100<br />
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255<br />
#else //no panel but just lcd <br />
#ifdef ULTRA_LCD<br />
#define LCD_WIDTH 16<br />
#define LCD_HEIGHT 2 <br />
#endif<br />
#endif<br />
<br />
Save that file. Now, open up your pins.h file. Scroll down to the bottom of the Rambo pins area, around line 1205. We need to change a few pin numbers here<br />
<br />
change SDSS to 53<br />
change KILL_PIN to 80<br />
<br />
Now we need to add some pin definitions. Copy and paste the following defines directly below the SUICIDE_PIN line<br />
<br />
#ifdef ULTRA_LCD<br />
#ifdef NEWPANEL<br />
//arduino pin which triggers an piezzo beeper<br />
#define BEEPER 79 // Beeper on AUX-4<br />
#define LCD_PINS_RS 70 <br />
#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 71<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D4 72<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D5 73 <br />
#define LCD_PINS_D6 74<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D7 75<br />
<br />
//buttons are directly attached using AUX-2<br />
#define BTN_EN1 76<br />
#define BTN_EN2 77<br />
#define BTN_ENC 78 //the click<br />
<br />
#define BLEN_C 2<br />
#define BLEN_B 1<br />
#define BLEN_A 0<br />
<br />
#define SDCARDDETECT 81 // Ramps does not use this port<br />
<br />
//encoder rotation values<br />
#define encrot0 0<br />
#define encrot1 2<br />
#define encrot2 3<br />
#define encrot3 1<br />
#else //old style panel with shift register<br />
//arduino pin witch triggers an piezzo beeper<br />
#define BEEPER 33 No Beeper added<br />
//buttons are attached to a shift register<br />
// Not wired this yet<br />
// #define SHIFT_CLK 38<br />
// #define SHIFT_LD 42<br />
// #define SHIFT_OUT 40<br />
// #define SHIFT_EN 17<br />
<br />
#define LCD_PINS_RS 75 <br />
#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D4 23<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D5 25 <br />
#define LCD_PINS_D6 27<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D7 29<br />
<br />
//encoder rotation values<br />
#define encrot0 0<br />
#define encrot1 2<br />
#define encrot2 3<br />
#define encrot3 1<br />
<br />
//bits in the shift register that carry the buttons for:<br />
// left up center down right red<br />
#define BL_LE 7<br />
#define BL_UP 6<br />
#define BL_MI 5<br />
#define BL_DW 4<br />
#define BL_RI 3<br />
#define BL_ST 2<br />
#define BLEN_B 1<br />
#define BLEN_A 0<br />
#endif <br />
#endif //ULTRA_LCD<br />
<br />
<br />
Now, save and upload your new modified firmware to your RAMBo using the arduino IDE that you modified with the file above, and you should have a working smart LCD controller. ENJOY!<br />
<br />
[[File:rambolcd1.jpg|center|700px]]<br />
<br />
= More Resources =<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Wiki page for the [[Rambo]] board<br />
<br />
Wiki page for the [[RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller]]<br />
<br />
= Where to Buy =<br />
*http://reprapdiscount.com<br />
*http://seemecnc.com</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Mendel_materials_preparation&diff=85142Mendel materials preparation2013-03-07T12:21:20Z<p>Ipinson: /* Thick sheet */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Template:Mendel Documentation Header|Mechanical Construction}}<br />
<br />
Once you’ve got your raw stock, you need to prepare some of it:<br />
<br />
== Bar ==<br />
<br />
Check the [[Mendel assembly data sheet]] for specifications.<br />
Cut the bar to size using a hack saw and tape measure.<br />
Use soft vice pads so as not to damage the bar surface or threads.<br />
If using mild steel, oil immediately to avoid rusting.<br />
File off all burrs.<br />
<br />
== Belt ==<br />
<br />
Check the [[Mendel assembly data sheet]] for specifications.<br />
Use the [[Belt splitter jig]] to cut the widths you need.<br />
'''Do not break the z-belt loop – this needs to be continuous!'''<br />
<br />
== Extruder parts ==<br />
<br />
The extruder design is frequently updated: check the [[Geared_Nema17_Extruder_Driver|Mendel extruder page]] for the latest procurement/preparation documentation.<br />
<br />
== Thin sheet ==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Opto-flag-templates.jpg|thumb|Optoswitch templates from thin sheet]]<br />
<br />
To prepare your optoswitch flags you need to drill and cut the sheet to shape using tin snips/scissors, depending on sheet thickness. <br />
Either use the dimensions shown [[media:Opto-flag-templates.png|here]] or print a template from the [https://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/svnroot/reprap/trunk/mendel/mechanics/solid-models/cartesian-robot-m4/imported-custom-parts/thin-sheet-templates dxf file]. (Make sure your printer doesn’t scale the template! Measure the reference dimension after printing to check). Once cut, make sure the end isn't reflective (if you used a shiney material, paint the end black or cover it with a small piece of masking tape).<br />
<br />
== Reprapped parts ==<br />
<br />
Clean out all holes and remove support material if necessary. Please note that this activity can take quite a while depending on the brittle nature of the Reprapped parts. Machine drilling is not a time saver...<br />
<br />
== Thick sheet ==<br />
<br />
Thick sheet components are best cut on a laser cutter.<br />
<br />
This [https://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/svnroot/reprap/trunk/mendel/mechanics/solid-models/cartesian-robot-m4/imported-custom-parts/thick-sheet-templates zip file] contains dxf’s for all individual sheet components, including a dxf of them all grouped together for a one-shot cut.<br />
<br />
If doing manually, or using a hacksaw or - better - a fretsaw, apologies. Whilst it is still possible, the author admits it will not be easy. One of the drawbacks of making the design [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] compact was increasing complexity, and the y-chassis has many complex cutting features in it. Add +0.4 mm on to all nominal hole diameters to ensure a clearance fit for bolts. For example a hole for an M4 bolt should be drilled to 4.4 mm (though 4.5mm will also suffice).<br />
<br />
Mounting holes are 218.2mm apart along the x axis, and 124mm apart along the y axis.<br />
<br />
[http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/03/making-mendel.html Nophead's simplified squashed frog] is a better design if you plan on cutting out by hand. His design also leaves out some holes to be drilled later after the RP parts have been attached. ([[Media:Mendel_US-sized_y-chassis.par.pdf|PDF template of this version (8.5x11)]])<br />
<br />
One of the thick-sheet components is the build bed. There is an [[Mendel_heated_bed |alternative heated bed here]] that will reduce warping of parts when you print them (especially if you print a lot at once, like when you are using Mendel to make copies of Mendel).<br />
<br />
== Studding ==<br />
<br />
Same as bar.<br />
<br />
----<br />
Back to [[Mendel mechanical construction]] root.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Mendel]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=K%C3%B6z%C3%B6s%C3%A9gi_port%C3%A1l&diff=85141Közöségi portál2013-03-07T12:21:09Z<p>Ipinson: /* Dokumentáció */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Community portal}}<br />
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<div style="font-size:90%; text-align:center;">'''Tartalom'''</div><br />
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[[#Bekapcsolódás|1 Bekapcsolódás]]<br /><br />
[[#Segítség|2 Segítség]]<br /><br />
[[#Blogok és erőforrások|3 Blogok és erőforrások]]<br />
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<h1 style="margin-top:.1em; padding-left:5px; text-align:left; margin-bottom:.2em; border-bottom:0; font-weight:bold;"><br />
Közösségi portál<br />
</h1><br />
<div style="font-size:120%; margin-bottom:10px; text-align:left; padding-right:5%; line-height:150%; color:#222; padding-left:5px;">Üdvözöljük a közösségi portálon. Ez az a hely, ahol megtudhatja mi történik a RepRap projekttel. Kapcsolatba léphet RepRap tagokkal, tudomást szerezhet a feladatokról, megoszthat híreket a közelmúlt eseményeiről vagy megismerheti a jelenlegi tevékenységeket a RepRap univerzumban.<br />
</div><div style="clear:both;"></div></div></div><br />
__NOTOC__<br />
<br />
==Bekapcsolódás==<br />
===Internet relay chat csatorna===<br />
Az internet relay chat (IRC) csatorna [irc://chat.freenode.net/#reprap #RepRap] freenode-ján van egy meglehetősen aktív közösség RepRapper-eknek. Ha konkrét segítségre van szüksége vagy bekapcsolódna az IRC csatornára, ami egy igen jó hely.<br />
<br />
Ha nem ismer IRC programot, akkor használhatja böngészőből is. Csak klikkeljen a http://webchat.freenode.net/?channels=reprap linkre és máris rákapcsolódik a csatornára.<br />
<br />
* '''Gyors link:''' [irc://chat.freenode.net/#reprap RepRap IRC]<br />
*[[IRC|Részletek]]<br />
<br />
===Közösségi fórum===<br />
A [http://forums.reprap.org/ RepRap közösségi fórumon] rengeteg információ van az aktuális RepRap közösségi eseményekről. Ez egy jó hely, hogy a RepRapperek kapcsolatba lépjenek vagy együttműködjenek egymással bárhol a világon. Van némi redundancia a fórumon és az IRC-én, de ennek ellenére úgy tűnik működik.<br />
<br />
* '''Gyors link:''' [http://forums.reprap.org/ RepRap Forums]<br />
<br />
===Helyi felhasználói csoportok és Hackerhelyek===<br />
Az új RepRappereknek különösen érdekes a [http://forums.reprap.org/index.php?19 RepRap Felhasználói Csoport (RUG) fórum], mert a helyi csoportokat gyűjti. Ha RepRap építéshez keres segítséget, Önnek a legjobb kiindulási pont a [http://forums.reprap.org/index.php?19 RUG fórum] vagy a [http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/List_of_Hacker_Spaces hackerhely].<br />
<br />
A [[:Category:RUG|RUG wiki oldalakról]] szerezhetők információk, de elég hiányosak.<br />
<br />
==Segítség==<br />
===Fejlesztés===<br />
A RepRap projekt közösségi indittatású, segíteni lehet például egy új kiterjesztés készítésével és utána blogolhat vagy posztot készíthet róla a [[:Category:Development|Fejlesztése katalógusban]].<br />
<br />
A hivatalos szoftver és hardver források a [http://sourceforge.net/projects/reprap/develop/ RepRap Sourceforge SVN-en vannak]. Ha hibát javítana vagy jelentene a RepRap projekttel kapcsolatban használja a [http://sourceforge.net/tracker/?group_id=159590 Sourceforge változás követőjét] vagy közvetlen kapcsolatba léphet [[User:AdrianBowyer|Adrian-nal]] ha fontos a gyorsabb változtatás, mint ahogyan a változás követővel menne.<br />
<br />
===Dokumentáció===<br />
Bármennyire is fura, a dokumentáció rendezetlen. Lehetséges, hogy már van ötlete a rendbetételére? Hajrá! A mediawiki szabadon szerkeszthető, ha valamilyen gond [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] van vagy nem biztos benne hagyan szerkessze az oldalakat válassza a [[RepRapWiki:Help|súgó oldalt]] (bár ez az oldal is elég rendetlen. Úgy tűnik ez a probléma folytonosan előjön.).<br />
<br />
A RepRap dokumentációjában szükséges javításokról a [[RepRapWiki:Wiki Administration]] portálon talál több információt.<br />
<br />
Esetleg ha van egy jó ötlete egy [[Collaborative Publications|Kollaboratív publikációhoz]], akkor a legegyszerűbb, ha IRC-n vagy a fórumokon feldobja az ötletet, hátha mást is érdekel.<br />
<br />
Különösen csodálatos lenne, ha a dokumentáció olyan egyszerűvé válna, hogy egy 13 éves gyerek is tudna építeni egy RepRap-et. Nézze meg az [[education|oktatás]] részt!<br />
<br />
===Támogatás===<br />
Adományokkal is segítheti a RepRap Fejlesztési Csapatot.<br />
* [http://sourceforge.net/donate/index.php?group_id=159590 RepRap Adomány Oldal]<br />
* [http://www.cafepress.ca/reprap RepRap CafePress Shop-ban] vásárolhat bögréket, pólókat, egér alátéteket és hasonlókat<br />
<br />
<span id="Guidelines"><br />
<br />
== Blogok és erőforrások ==<br />
<br />
=== RepRapper Blogs ===<br />
* [http://pipes.yahoo.com/davidbuzz/reprap_aggregation_pipe Reprap Aggregation Pipe ( vagyis a szakmai blog )] <- a legjobb hely, ha a legfrissebb RepRap fejlesztéseket akarja nyomon követni<br />
* [http://blog.reprap.org/ Core Team Blog ] - A RepRap Core Team hivatalos blogja<br />
* [http://builders.reprap.org/ Builders Blog ] - A RepRap közösség másik blogja<br />
* [[Builders/Links_and_Blogs|Links and Blogs]] - Linkgyűjtemény különböző blogokhoz és website-okhoz, ahol RepRap-pel foglalkoznak<br />
<br />
=== Közreműködők ===<br />
* A [[RepRapWiki:The_Core_Team|Core Team]] a RepRap közösség aktív tagjai, akik fejlesztik a gépet, a szoftvereit, működtetik a szervert, rendezik és ellenőrzik a dokumentációt.<br />
* RepRap közreműködők találhatók a [[RepRapWiki:Acknowledgements|Köszönetnyilvánító]] oldalon is.<br />
<br />
=== További erőforrások ===<br />
<br />
* [[MediaMain|A RepRap megjelenése különböző helyeken (újságcikkek, stb.)]]<br />
* [http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=117099291054388532447.0004409098b1c5b712553 RepRap Világtérkép]<br />
* [[RelatedSites | Kapcsolódó oldalak]]<br />
* [[Builders/Links and Blogs|Építők/Linkek és blogok]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Community/hu| ]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRapPro_Mendel_z_axis_assembly&diff=85140RepRapPro Mendel z axis assembly2013-03-07T12:20:56Z<p>Ipinson: /* Step 1: Z axis screw drives */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RepRapPro Mendel Contents}}<br />
<br />
=Goal=<br />
<br />
By the end of this stage, your RepRap should look like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-z-axis-finished.jpg|500px|RepRapPro Z Axis]]<br />
<br />
=Tools=<br />
<br />
You will need the following tools<br />
<br />
*M3 Allen key<br />
*M3 spanner/nut runner<br />
*Small screwdriver<br />
*M2.5 spanner<br />
*M8 spanner<br />
<br />
=Step 1: Z axis screw drives=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|columnspan="2"|[[File:reprappro-mendel-z-axis-main-parts.jpg|300px]]<br />
|- <br />
|'''Item'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|NEMA 17 motors<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|25 mm springs*<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|215mm M5 studding<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M5 nuts<br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|30mm x 5mm id poly tube<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|Printed U clamps<br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 20mm screws<br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nuts<br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 10mm screws<br />
|8<br />
|-<br />
|M3 washers<br />
|12<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<nowiki>*</nowiki>The springs shown in the picture are too long; the ones you want are 25mm.<br />
<br />
Start by fitting the plastic tubes to the motors using the U clamps. Have the gap in each clamp aligned with the flat on its motor shaft:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-z-axis-motor-tube.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Put both clamps on, but don't tighten them. Have the motor shafts come just under half way through the tubes.<br />
<br />
Then use the short screws with washers to fit the Z motors at the top of the frame.<br />
<br />
Have the wires point towards the centre of the machine.<br />
<br />
Next fit the M5 threaded rods, M5 nuts and springs to the X axis:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-z-axis-M5-drives.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Screw a nut onto a rod and make sure that it fits down the hexagonal holes in the X-axis ends. It should move up and down freely, but not - obviously - rotate. [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] If there are tight spots inside the hexagonal holes scrape them away with a screwdriver blade.<br />
<br />
Now fit the nuts and rods. Put a nut about half way along a bar, put a spring on, and push the spring down the top of a hexagonal hole.<br />
<br />
Compress the spring and put another nut on the bottom of the thread. When the spring relaxes it should pull that nut into the hole in the bottom of the hexagonal hole to rest on the constriction about 10mm up inside. Adjust things so that the top nut is about flush with the top of its hole.<br />
<br />
Now check that the Z rods are parallel:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-z-axis-check-parallel.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
A simple way to do this is with two rulers clamped together as shown. Check the gap bottom, middle and top. Make adjustments by slackening and tightening the M8 nuts that clamp the bottoms of the Z rods. '''Make the adjustments symmetrically - whatever you do on the left, also do on the right.''' You may find it helps to mark the nuts with a felt-tipped pen so you can see how far you turn them.<br />
<br />
=Step 2: Fit the X axis=<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-z-axis-length-adjustment.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
(The picture is wrong: the plastic tubes and their U clamps should be on the motors at this stage, not the M5 rods.)<br />
<br />
Slacken the nuts on the Z motor mounts that retain the Z rods. Slacken the '''outer''' nuts on the U clips at the base of the Z rods. Make sure that the inner nuts do not move - then when you re-tighten things everything will go back to the same place.<br />
<br />
Slide the Z rods upwards by about half their length. You may need to tighten the top nuts by hand to stop them falling again.<br />
<br />
Move the Y frog to the middle of the machine.<br />
<br />
Put the X axis on the Y frog. Pack the X axis up with a scrap of wood or similar to get it level and stable.<br />
<br />
Push the left-hand Z rod down through the IGUS bearing inserts by the X motor and on down through the U clip at the bottom. Again, take care not to move the inner nut.<br />
<br />
Tighten the outer nut on the Z rod, and also tighten the nut at the top on the Z motor mount.<br />
<br />
Push the right-hand Z rod down through the X carriage and stop just above its U clip.<br />
<br />
The Z rod will be on the inside of the U clip. That is to say, the X axis is (deliberately) too short. (See the inset image.)<br />
<br />
With an M3 Allen key, tighten the screws in their nylock nuts on the ends of the X rods. The bottom of the Z rod will move outwards. Adjust it so that it just lines up with the hole down the U clip, then push it on down through the U clip.<br />
<br />
Tighten the nuts on the Z motor mount and the outer nut on the bottom U clip to hold the right-hand Z rod firmly.<br />
<br />
Finally for this step use a rectangular object to support the X carriage on the Y Frog. Then screw the ends of the M5 rods into the plastic tubes on the motors. <br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-z-axis-M5-attach.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Have gaps of about 2mm to 3mm between the tops of the M5 rods and the bottoms of the motor shafts. (You can see this because the poly tube is transparent.)<br />
<br />
Tighten the U clamps on the motor shafts and the M5 rods. Remember to have the flats on the motor shafts aligned with the gaps in the clamps.<br />
<br />
Turn the Z motors by hand to get the X axis level. To check this, move the Y frog and the X carriage out of the way, and use digital callipers to measure the gaps between the Y rods and the X rods. These gaps should be the same left and right.<br />
<br />
=Step 3: The adjustable Z endstop=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|columnspan="2"|[[File:reprappro-mendel-z-axis-endstop-parts.jpg|300px]]<br />
|- <br />
|'''Item'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|M2.5x16mm screws<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M2.5 washers<br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|M2.5 nuts<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|microswitch<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|Printed Z-stop bracket<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|Printed z-adjust wheel<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 35mm hex-head screw<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 20mm screws<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nuts<br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|M3 washers<br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|15mm spring<br />
|1<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Note that the X and Y axis stop brackets are identical. The Z stop bracket holder has a longer leg; that is the one you want.<br />
<br />
Start by using the 35mm hex-head screw together with nuts, washers and the spring to assemble the adjuster:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-z-axis-adjuster.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Then use an M3 nut underneath to fit the adjuster to the motor end of the X carriage:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-z-axis-adjuster-fitted.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Pull the nut into its hexagonal recess under the carriage. Make sure the two hexagons line up.<br />
<br />
Assemble the switch together with the "h" shaped piece using the M2.5 screws, washers and nuts as shown and fit it to the smooth Z rod. <br />
<br />
The remaining M3 parts close the h-clamp. Don't do it too tight - it needs to be firm and unmoving, that is all. <br />
<br />
The switch button should line up with the end of the adjustment screw.<br />
<br />
=Step 4: The X belt and endstop=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|columnspan="2"|[[File:reprappro-mendel-z-axis-x-parts.jpg|300px]]<br />
|- <br />
|'''Item'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|Printed XY-stop bracket<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M2.5x16mm screws<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M2.5 washers<br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|M2.5 nuts<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|microswitch<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 20mm screws<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nuts<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 washers<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|toothed belt<br />
|left over from Y axis<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Loop the belt round the X motor pulley, over the X idler bearing at the other end, and attach the ends of the belt to the carriage as shown:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-x-belt-fitted.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
The belt will be a little too long. Pull it so there's no slack, check that the belt teeth are located in the dents for them in the clamps, tighten the clamps, and remove any excess with sidecutters. You want the ends of the belt projecting about 2mm below the carriage.<br />
<br />
Use the belt adjusting screw to tension the belt. It must be under just enough tension to remove any slack. While testing for slack, any rotation of the motor shaft, no matter how small, should result in a corresponding motion of the carriage, especially on reversal. There should be no visible deformation of the belt near its attachment points when the motion is reversed. On the other hand, the tension must not be so high as to distort anything. Get it just tight enough that there is no slack or play in anything; no further.<br />
<br />
Swing the X carriage several times from one end to another and also move it back and forth in shorter strokes around several different points in range (e.g., 1/4, 1/2, 3/4), or just pick points randomly. Watch how the belt tracks the idler pulley and the motor gear. If it crawls off to one side, check that:<br />
<br />
* The top side of the belt and its attachment points are in the same plane<br />
* The motor and the idler axes are parallel<br />
* The belt is properly tensioned<br />
<br />
Fixes to the belt wandering can include repositioning the belt guides in the carriage top (cutting deeper ones in the right places with a utility knife), shimming the idler bolt and/or the motor with scraps of folded paper (on the motor end, washers can be added between the motor and the mounting bracket), and adjusting the tension. Up to a point, a higher tension may result in a more stable belt, but care must be taken to avoid warping the rig.<br />
<br />
A successful alignment should result in a small amount of crawl (less than a millimetre) near the edge of the idler, possibly with a small overhang. Because a flat belt on a straight cylindrical pulley is an unstable system, it will either be attracted to the edge (success), or crawl off to touch the bracket or the guard (failure). The bevelled edge of the idler acts as a poor man's crowned pulley, so it is normal for the belt to stabilise at the edge.<br />
<br />
Fit the X endstop as shown. It goes on the back of the X carriage at the motor end:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-x-endstop-fitted.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Check that the X carriage hits the switch, but don't do it up tight - you will have to take it off again to wire it up.<br />
<br />
=Step 5: X carriage heatshield=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|columnspan="2"|[[File:reprappro-mendel-heatshield-parts.jpg|300px]]<br />
|- <br />
|'''Item'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|Cardboard heatshield*<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|Aluminium cooking foil*<br />
|110mm x 135mm<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<nowiki>*</nowiki>Kits supplied from RepRapPro Ltd have the heatshield pre-cut from aluminised card. For those you can skip the next DIY section.<br />
<br />
====DIY Heatshield====<br />
<br />
Start by gluing the aluminium foil to the cardboard heatshield. The aluminium needs to go on the underside of the cardboard when the cardboard is the way up shown in the picture above.<br />
<br />
Virtually any glue will do, but aerosol spray glue is easiest. Spray the foil, then drop the cardboard onto it and press it down against a flat surface.<br />
<br />
Trim the foil about 5mm out from the edge of the cardboard and fold it over and stick it around the edge on the back. You can make a neat job if you make rectangular cuts of the foil by convex corners, and 45 degree angled cuts in to concave ones.<br />
<br />
Let the glue set.<br />
<br />
====Install Heatshield====<br />
<br />
Fit the heat-shield under the X carriage, with the aluminium face pointing downwards. Sandwich it between the washers between the nuts that you fitted earlier for this purpose. Fit it as low as you can, with the bottom nuts at the end of their travel.<br />
<br />
=Next step=<br />
<br />
[[RepRapPro_Mendel_heatbed_assembly|Heated bed assembly]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Build_Instructions]]<br />
[[Category:RepRapPro]]<br />
[[Category:Mendel]]<br />
[[Category:Mendel_Development]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Phoenix_Electronics&diff=85139Phoenix Electronics2013-03-07T12:20:44Z<p>Ipinson: /* History */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Pheonix Electronics<br />
|status = working <br />
|image = TVRRUG_Phoenix_01.JPG<br />
|description = Robust, modular and through-hole RepRap electronics, based on Atmel ATmega644 AVR and Toshiba TB6560 stepper drivers.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = folknology<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]], [[:Category:Electronics development|Electronics development]], [[:Category:Mendel_Development|Mendel Development]]<br />
|reprap = Arduino<br />
|cadModel = http://solderpad.com/folknology/<br />
|url = http://tvrrug.org.uk/emodules<br />
}}<br />
[[Category:Electronics development]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Mendel_Development]]<br />
<br />
Phoenix is a robust, modular and through-hole RepRap electronics designed to be easy for beginners to construct.<br />
<br />
[[File:TVRRUG_Phoenix_01.JPG]]<br />
<br />
== History ==<br />
In 2011 a few of us started the Thames Valley RepRap group [[http://www.tvrrug.org.uk TVRRUG]] to connect RepRap folk in the area and to embark on build groups designed to bring new folks into the RepRap 3D printing revolution. As part of this we started refining our Mendel Prusa based design and were looking to improve on the existing electronics. We wanted to solve a few of the current design issues as well as move away from the more [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] expensive Pololu-based drive modules (Early build [http://www.tvrrug.org.uk/emodules discussions]). Here are some of the main features we decided as a group:<br />
<br />
# Completely through hole component design - to make construction accessible to a wider range of folk<br />
# Modular, so that single or multiple extruder designs could be catered for<br />
# Self maintainable - if you can build it you can replace its modules and or components<br />
# Robust - we had experienced thermal and power issues with the existing electronics, we figured we could improve on that<br />
<br />
== Design ==<br />
The design is modular and consists of a main controller board ([http://www.solderpad.com/folknology/open-motion-controller/ OMC]) and up to 3 Stepper modules ([http://www.solderpad.com/folknology/dual-stepper-motor-module/ DSMs]), each of which is capable of handling 2 stepper motors. This allows for designs from the basic single extruder up to more complex builds using three extruders. <br />
<br />
# Atmel ATmega644 based controller design<br />
# Up to 3 extruders (requires 3 DSM modules)<br />
# High capacity Heated bed support (up to 20 Amps DC)<br />
# On-board SDCard support<br />
# Power sequencing (to protect the Toshiba drivers)<br />
<br />
== License ==<br />
Files for the electronics are distributed under the CERN Open hardware license, and are, as such, completely open.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
To checkout the very latest version of OMC git clone git://solderpad.com/folknology/open-motion-controller.git<br/><br />
To checkout the very latest version of DSM git clone git://solderpad.com/folknology/dual-stepper-motor-module.git<br />
<br />
== BOM ==<br />
Current version is 1.2. All parts for a set (1xOMC, 2xDSM) can be sourced for around £100. Cheapest cost was not one of the highest priorities when designing the boards, and multiple boards and through-hole design is not the most cost effective way of designing the layout; monolithic surface mount is, but this compromises other aims such as user-maintainability.<br/><br />
[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AlKLZQD6xflKdFlQTXQ2V3NYaWkwVDFuNlhNYk4wMmc#gid=2 BOM on GoogleDocs] and [http://tvrrug.org.uk/electronics-v1-2-parts Visual BOM/Kit parts]<br />
<br />
== Build ==<br />
See below<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
Here's a [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwuEMgbyl7Y video] from early development: <br/><br />
Here's a [http://vimeo.com/49263052 video] of lots of TVRRUG printers using the Phoenix electronics at Brighton Makerfaire<br/><br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
[http://www.tvrrug.org.uk/E-Module-Build-OMC-v1.2 Build Instructions] and [http://www.tvrrug.org.uk/electronics_wiring_v1.2 Wiring]<br />
<br />
== Firmware ==<br />
We currently support Marlin firmware. See [http://tvrrug.org.uk/firmware Phoenix Marlin firmware support]<br />
<br />
== Publicity ==<br />
https://plus.google.com/u/0/116341287830615647443/posts/HkSpwf9fMQt<br />
Lots of mentions on the TVRRUG googlegroup: https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!forum/tvreprapug</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=HORI&diff=85138HORI2013-03-07T12:20:33Z<p>Ipinson: /* Introducción */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Reprap-gen0.png|right|300px]]<br />
== Introducción ==<br />
HORI es una Replicator 1, comprada por el Ph. D. Chris D. McCoy de la Universidad de California, Berkeley, durante su estancia investigadora en la ETSI Aeronáuticos de Madrid.<br />
Desde que llegó a España Chris a puesto en marcha numerosos proyectos dirigidos a fomentar la innovación y creación empresarial. Es el CEO del muy aclamado curso [http://www.handsonrapidinnovation.com/ HORI: Hands-On Rapid Innovation]. También ha creado varios productos y empresas, como [http://buddygripper.com/ BuddyGripper.com]<br />
<br />
Al acabar su estancia [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga], Chris decidió dejar su querida impresora al cargo de su amigo Miguel Ángel, que ya estaba construyendo una impresora 3D en el Club de Robótica con la misma motivación, para que otros jóvenes emprendedores tuvieran la oportunidad acceder a una impresora 3D y llevar a cabo sus ideas.<br />
<br />
== Ficha ==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"<br />
|- <br />
<br />
| [[File:Clon0-HORI.png|200px]]<br />
|<br />
* '''Nombre''': '''<font color="#0000FF">HORI</font>''' <br />
* '''Modelo''': [http://store.makerbot.com/replicator-404.html The Replicator], de MakerBOT<br />
* '''Nacimiento''': 10/Julio/2012 (Impresión de la primera pieza)<br />
* '''Propiedad de''': [http://www-bsac.eecs.berkeley.edu/~mccoy/ Chris D. McCoy] <br />
* '''Operada por''': [http://madebyfrutos.wordpress.com/ Miguel Ángel de Frutos], en [http://aerobotclubderobticadeaeronuticos.blogspot.com.es/ Aerobot Club de Robótica] <br />
* '''Localización''': Madrid <br />
* '''Descendencia''': ''En proceso...''<br />
<br />
|<br />
<center> [[File:2383_logo_2011-09-28_logo_v4.jpg |150px]] </center> <br><br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Méritos ==<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| [[File:Icono premio.png]] Primera Impresora operativa en la ETSI Aeronaúticos, UPM.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Fotos ==<br />
[[File:Miguel_And_Chris.jpg |300px]] <br />
<br />
<br />
== Historia ==<br />
* '''03/Dic/2012''': Primera entrega de piezas empresas por HORI a Carlos de Manuel para el LEEM<br />
:{| class="wikitable"<br />
|- <br />
| [[File:HoriCarlosdeManuel.jpg|200px| (''Click para ampliar'') ]]<br />
|}<br />
* '''26/Noviembre/2012''': [http://madebyfrutos.wordpress.com/ Miguel Ángel de Frutos] actualizó el firmware al Replicator a 6.2 que funciona mejor con MakerWare. También, limpió los engranajes y el mantinimiento que hizo falta.<br />
* '''22/Noviembre/2012''': [http://madebyfrutos.wordpress.com/ Miguel Ángel de Frutos] recibe a HORI en el Club de Robótica para su uso, cuidado y mantenimiento.<br />
* '''10/Julio/2012''': Nace HORI<br />
<br />
== Usuarios Cualificados ==<br />
Usuarios cualificados son todos aquellos usuarios que hayan demonstrado sus capacidades para usar una impresora 3D (especificamente la Makerbot Replicator) a través del programa de entrenamiento. Si quieres ser uno de los usuarios cualificados, inscríbete en este [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?formkey=dDFVTS1RVkJld3hILTRsbFJzc09Ecmc6MQ#gid=0/ formulario]<br />
<br />
* [http://madebyfrutos.wordpress.com/ Miguel Ángel de Frutos]<br />
* [http://www.chrisdmccoy.com/ Chris D. McCoy] cmccoy aroba handsonri.com<br />
<br />
== Usuarios en periodo de Entrenamiento ==<br />
En esta sección aparecen los usuarios en prácticas. Con este entrenamiento se espera dotar a los futuros usuarios de los conocimientos y habilidades necesarios para poder operar la máquina con total garantía y seguridad. Una vez que un usuario ya ha superado el curso de manejo de impresora 3D deberá enseñar a un nuevo aspirante, de tal forma que ayudemos a extender y facilitar el aprendizaje a nuevos miembros. Si quieres participar y usar la impresora 3D, por favor, inscríbete aquí en [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?formkey=dDFVTS1RVkJld3hILTRsbFJzc09Ecmc6MQ#gid=0 el formulario de entrenimiento]<br />
<br />
'''La gente que han empezado el entrenimiento pero les falta entregar la primera y segunda pruebas con satisfación:'''<br />
* Carlos Manuel Navio (LEEM, Alumno ETSIA)<br />
* Fco. Javier Herrera (Alumno ETSIA)<br />
* Ricardo Alfaro Jimenez (HORI Alumni, Alumno ETSIA)<br />
<br />
'''Para empezar, por favor, aprende un poco sobre impresión en 3D con los enlaces que siguen:'''<br />
* Pónte familiar con la documentación del Replicator: [http://www.makerbot.com/support/replicator/ Documentation]. Especificamente: el mantinimento, el Makerware Software, la sección 3D Design y la de 3D Printing. <br />
* The First Run Experience on the Replicator: ([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4Odom-XyBk YouTube Video]) ([http://www.makerbot.com/support/replicator/documentation/fre/ Documentation])<br />
* Descarga y usa el [http://www.makerbot.com/support/replicatorg/documentation/usage/ ReplicatorG] Software o el: [http://www.makerbot.com/makerware/ Makerware Software]. ReplicatorG es más viejo pero más conocido. MakerWare es más nuevo y la gente debería conocer los dos. Suponemos que el MakerWare tiene más capacidad y no tiene tantos beechos que el viejo.<br />
* Siempre tener en cuenta que es una máquina peligrosa y si no está usado bien y con cuidado, puedes hacerte daño a ti mismo o a la máquina. <br />
<br />
'''Primera Prueba: Descargar, imprimir y poner en marcha, un [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35617 BuddyGripper3D]'''<br />
* Primera, descarga el archivo del *.STL del BuddyGripper3D de Thingiverse.com (échate un vistazo sobre el enlace arriba)<br />
* Segunda, ábrelo en tu software de Makerware para generar tu codigo de la impresora 3D (*.s3g).<br />
* Tercera, guárda tu código de la impresora (*.s3g) en la tarjeta de SD que viene con el Replicator. Hay muchos archivos dentro, asegúrate que no borras ningun archivo allí. <br />
* Cuando todo está bien puesto en la tarjeta, devúelvalo a la impresora y usa los botones al lado de la pantalla para imprimir desde la tarjeta SD.<br />
* Asegúrate que hay alguien de la lista "usuarios cualificados" al lado de ti cuando imprimes por la primera vez. Ellos pueden explicar las cositas que debería tener en cuenta cuando imprimes por las primeras veces.<br />
* Cuándo ya está impreso, qúitala de la placa base (ten cuidado por no quemarte porque hay muchas piezas calientes) y pregunta alguien en el Club Robotica por las roscas y la ventosa para hacer un [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35617 BuddyGripper3D].<br />
* No debería romperse cuando pones las roscas y la ventosa.<br />
* Si tienes cualquier pregunta o duda, pregunta una persona de la lista de gente cualificada arriba.<br />
<br />
'''Segunda Prueba: Descargar, imprimir y poner en marcha, un [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33357 Tripod3D]'''<br />
* Descarga todos los archivos *.STL y genera los códigos de cada pieza (*.s3g)<br />
* Rehacer los nombres para tener sentido en la tarjeta SD para que puedas imprimir rápida y bien. <br />
* Cuando todas las piezas están impresos, intentate poner todo en marcha. Debería ser más o menos sencillo si están hechos bien.<br />
* Cuando tienes tu BuddyGripper3D y Tripod3D listo, enseñalos a una de las que ya están cualificados y seguir a tu última prueba!<br />
<br />
'''Tercera Prueba: Descargar, imprimir y poner en marcha algo que has diseñado tu mismo:'''<br />
* Primero, tu diseño debería ser: pequeño, sencillo y no tardar más de una hora de imprimir. <br />
* Tienes que diseñarlo tu mismo y debería tener una utilidad de una manera o otra.<br />
* Cuando estás terminado con tu prueba, tienes que crear una cuenta de [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse.com], y mándanos tu diseño subido allí en su página web. <br />
* Úsate este enlace para entregar tu última prueba [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?formkey=dGR3Ymd1b3pvOUhNSloxc09VY0hTYVE6MQ#gid=0 La prueba final de ser un usuario cualificado]<br />
<br />
== Enlaces ==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
[[File:Clone-Wars-logo.png|border|100px|link=Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
| [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|Design for 3D Printing<br />
| [http://chrisdmccoy.com/blog/2012/04/13/dfp-design-for-print-what-you-should-know/ Design for 3D Printing]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|www.you3Dit.com - un sitio web donde ellos "da forma a tus ideas"<br />
| [http://www.you3dit.com www.you3dit.com]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|www.thingiverse.com - cosas impresos con la impresora HORI<br />
| [http://www.thingiverse.com/cmceezee thingiverse.com]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Clone wars/es]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRapPro_Huxley_frame_assembly&diff=85137RepRapPro Huxley frame assembly2013-03-07T12:20:24Z<p>Ipinson: /* Step2: Cross bars */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RepRapPro_Huxley_Contents}}<br />
<br />
=Goal=<br />
<br />
By the end of this stage, your machine should look like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-07-27-16.35.58-300x225.jpg|500px|RepRapPro Huxley assembled frame]]<br />
<br />
=Tools=<br />
<br />
You will need the following tools<br />
<br />
*Laser-cut measurement template (provided with your kit)<br />
*M6 (10mm) spanner<br />
*Adjustable spanner<br />
*Set-square<br />
*300mm Rule<br />
*(optional) Spirit level, cotton and Blu-tack<br />
<br />
=Step 1: Frame triangles=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|'''RP parts'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|rowspan="8"|[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-07-25-15.14.25-300x225.jpg]]<br />
|- <br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-frame-vertex-150x150.jpg]]<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-frame-vertex-foot-150x150.jpg]]<br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-bar-clamp-150x150.jpg]]<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|'''Hardware'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|M6 threaded bar x 250mm<br />
|6<br />
|-<br />
|M6 nuts<br />
|28<br />
|-<br />
|M6 serrated washers<br />
|28<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''Building 2 sets of triangles (5 min each)'''<br />
<br />
Split the above 6x plastic V shape RP components into two equal sets of 3x (1x left part with foot/leg, 1x right part with foot/leg and 1x top part), start with two legs ones, make sure you slide a belt clamp (U shaped plastic part) along the bottom M6 threaded 250mm long bar, with a serrated washer and nut either side, then '''loosely screw just with force of fingers''' rest of 250mm rods into each of 3x V shape RP components to finally form a triangle.<br />
<br />
When you place a serrated washer between the U shaped RP parts and each M6 nut it will look like this: <br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-07-25-15.18.30-300x225.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Now repeat same for second triangle, you frame triangles should now look like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-07-25-15.21.49-300x225.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''Fine tuning 2 triangle sizes (20 -30 min)'''<br />
<br />
Before moving on to the next step, we need to '''tighten the nuts''' in rgiht distance on both frame triangles to make them rigid. <br />
<br />
Your kit has a laser-cut measuring template provided. You can use this to make checking the gaps easy.<br />
If you do a custom build, best alternative will be to cut a measurement jig 207mm long from 1m long 8mm thick wooden rod. <br />
<br />
Please, be patient, give it time, this is very important step.<br />
<br />
For each frame, measure the distance between the vertices on all three sides. The distance you should be aiming for is '''207mm'''. But more important is to make them all six the same. The better aligned your frame is, the better your prints will be when printing large and/or tall objects.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-07-25-16.33.40-300x225.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''Gently tighten''' all the M6 nuts ensuring the distance between vertices of '''207mm''' is maintained.<br />
<br />
A useful trick once you have one triangle accurately tightened is to use other 6mm rods from the kit to align the second one:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-triangle-alignment.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Use the 6 smooth rods rather than the threaded ones for better accuracy, '''but be sure then smooth rods can be inserted without any pressure into holes'''. In case then you don't prepare holes well enough and you maintain to push smooth rods inside '''don't use any tool on them directly to take them out - take a piece of cloth, wrap them and with screwing like motion take them gently out'''. <br />
<br />
For custom build if you have in hand any M6 hexagon head screws you can use them instead of your expensive smooth rods.<br />
<br />
=Step2: Cross bars=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|'''RP parts'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|rowspan="8"|[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-07-25-16.18.02-300x225.jpg|300px]]<br><br />
|- <br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-bar-clamp-150x150.jpg]]<br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-endstop.png|150px]]<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|'''Hardware''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|M6 threaded bar x 185mm<br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|M6 nuts <br />
|24<br />
|-<br />
|M6 serrated washer<br />
|24<br />
|-<br />
|626 Bearing <br />
|2<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Again split the above components into two equal sets, but with two U-shaped RP bar-clamps in one set, and one U-shaped RP bar-clamp plus the one with the extra tab in the other. (The tab is for the Y axis limit switch.) You will assemble two top bars (identical but for the U/U+extra-tab), and two bottom bars (identical). <br />
<br />
NOTE : The extra tab on one U-shaped bar clamp is used to maintain the Y-axis end-stroke contact. Install it at this moment (see Wiring - step 5 [http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapPro_Huxley_wiring]<br />
<br />
So for one top bar, you will need (starting from the middle of the M6 threaded bar): serrated washer, two M6 nuts, serrated washer, bar-clamp, serrated washer, two M6 nuts, serrated washer. Then, in the other direction: serrated washer, two M6 nuts, serrated washer, bar-clamp+tab [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] (with the tab facing towards the centre of the bar), serrated washer, two M6 nuts, serrated washer.<br />
<br />
For the other top bar, you will need (starting from the middle of the M6 threaded bar): serrated washer, two M6 nuts, serrated washer, bar-clamp, serrated washer, two M6 nuts, serrated washer. Then do exactly the same in the other direction.<br />
<br />
And for the bottom bars: 1 x 626 bearing, serrated washer, 2 x M6 nuts, serrated washer, (and repeat in the other direction, except for the bearing).<br />
<br />
Your cross bars will now look like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-07-25-16.18.02-300x225.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
=Step3: Put them all together=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|'''RP parts'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|rowspan="8"|[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-07-25-16.40.15-300x225.jpg|300px]]<br>Again, bars aren't really bent, they are straight!<br />
|- <br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-z-motor-bracket-150x150.jpg]]<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-bar-clamp-150x150.jpg]]<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|'''Hardware'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|M6 threaded bar x 285mm<br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|M6 smooth rods x 235mm <br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M6 nuts <br />
|20<br />
|-<br />
|M6 serrated washer<br />
|20<br />
|-<br />
|Lasercut filament drive bracket<br />
|1<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Firstly screw the cross bars into one of the triangles. The cross bar with the bar clamp with the extra tab should go at the back, with the bar clamp with the extra tab on the right.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-07-25-16.34.35-300x225.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Then screw the second triangle to the other end of the cross bars:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-07-25-16.37.03-300x225.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Now we need to slide the two top bars through the top frame vertices. Slide each bar through one vertex, then fit one serrated washer, two M6 nuts and another serrated washer before sliding the bar through the opposite vertex. <br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-top-nut-order.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Next, slide a Z motor mount onto each ends of the top bars. This may need a little force as the holes through the z motor mounts tend to be quite a tight fit on the M6 threaded bars (it's usually a good idea to make sure you can push a spare length of M6 threaded bar into each of the z motor mount holes before trying to fit them to your frame).<br />
<br />
Add the lasercut filament drive bracket so it is inside the left Z motor mount and frame-vertex, and is held against it by the inner nuts and washers. The front slot next to the rounded end goes upwards, the middle slot goes at the back and downwards. Imagine hanging a weight on the projecting end - the slots need to go in the way that makes the weight tend to pull things into place, not to release them.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-filament-drive-bracket.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Before tightening the M6 nuts on the top bars, slide the bottom cross bar through the two bottom bar clamps. You do not need M6 nuts or washers either side of these bar clamps. At each end of this bottom cross bar, fit an M6 nut, a serrated washer, a bar clamp, a serrated washer, and another M6 nut. <br />
<br />
At this stage, the frame should be quite loose, so just jiggle everything around until it all the angles look about right. Once you are happy with this step, you can tighten the nuts on the cross bars. The distance between the frame vertices along the cross bars should be 146mm. When tightening the M6 nuts on the top cross bars, please note that you do not need to tighten the nuts which clamp against the Z smooth rods too much, only enough to stop the smooth rod from sliding down. If you slip two washers into the groove on the Z-motor mount (with the threaded rod run through their holes) you will be able to clamp your frame solidly and grip the Z-rods without over-stressing the plastic. Your kit doesn't come with these washers. 1/4" washers work well for this.<br />
<br />
Before tightening the bar clamps on the bottom cross bar, slide the Y axis smooth rods (270mm) into place. (These are easily confused with the X axis rods, which are 265mm - get the right ones.)<br />
<br />
==Aligning the Z Rods==<br />
<br />
You can now slide the two Z smooth rods (length 235mm) into place.<br />
<br />
Use a set-square to get the angle of the Z smooth rods correct. Make sure you get the right smooth rod for the Y-axis; if you swap them you will have to go back and take things apart again.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-07-28-08.57.23-300x225.jpg]]<br />
<br />
You can now tighten the M6 nuts along the bottom cross bar.<br />
<br />
==Alternative alignment method==<br />
<br />
Some people swear by this method, others hate it...<br />
<br />
For this you will need the spirit level, two pieces of cotton, and a small blob of Blu-tack.<br />
<br />
Build the frame as above, as far as "Aligning the Z Rods".<br />
<br />
Place the frame on a '''flat''' surface (40mm-thick Formica-covered kitchen worktops are remarkably flat). You will almost certainly find that the feet aren't quite level and that the frame rocks a little about a diagonal. Tightening the frame has distorted it slightly.<br />
<br />
Put an object about 10mm high under a foot on that diagonal, and '''very gently''' push the other two diagonal corners down. Try the feet on the flat surface again. Repeat this until the frame does not rock, but instead sits four-square on the surface. You can carry out this process at any future stage in the build to re-square the frame.<br />
<br />
Put the spirit level across the Y smooth bars, and place folded paper shims under the left or right feet until the frame is level left-right. You will discover that a spirit level is an exquisitely sensitive instrument, and that it can easily detect a couple thicknesses of paper.<br />
<br />
Rotate the spirit level through a right angle so it rests between the front and back cross bars, and get the frame level front-back too.<br />
<br />
Check the frame is level in both directions.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-spirit-level.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Now thread two lengths of cotton down through the top bracket and the U clamp on the bottom where the Z axis smooth rods will be. Attach it to the Z-axis-smooth-rod holes at the top with Blu-tack such that it is half-way round the inside of the clamp arc.<br />
<br />
Put a small blob of Blu-tack on the bottom of each piece of cotton to act as a plumb weight.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-plumb-line.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Now adjust the positions of the threaded rod at the bottom and the Z-axis-smooth-rod U clamps so that the cotton falls freely in the middle of the U-clamp holes.<br />
<br />
Tighten the nuts on the main frame holding the threaded rod, making sure that the cotton stays in the middle of the holes where it was.<br />
<br />
Now tighten the inner nuts to move the U clamps outwards so that the cotton just kisses the edge of the U holes in exactly the same relative position as it is falling through the clamps at the top of the frame.<br />
<br />
Slide the Z-axis rods in, tighten the clamps from the outside, and check with a square as in the section above. If you've done everything carefully there should be little or no discrepancy, but it is more important to have a right angle than to have the Z-rods plumb.<br />
<br />
=Frame finished=<br />
<br />
You will now have an assembled RepRapPro Huxley frame:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-07-27-16.35.58-300x225.jpg|300px|RepRapPro Huxley assembled frame]]<br />
<br />
=Next stage=<br />
<br />
[[RepRapPro Huxley y axis assembly|assemble the Y axis]].<br />
<br />
[[Category:Build_Instructions]]<br />
[[Category:RepRapPro]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Power_Distribution_and_Communications_Board_v1.2&diff=85136Power Distribution and Communications Board v1.22013-03-07T12:20:15Z<p>Ipinson: /* v1.2.0 */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Depreciated! Use the [[PowerCommsBoard_1_3|Power and Communications Board v1.3]] instead! =<br />
<br />
== Power Distribution and Communications Board - v1.2 ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Overview ==<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/518485954/ [[image:DarwinPowerAndCommunicationsCard_1_2-powercomms-annotated.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
The Power Distribution and Communications Board consists of a hard drive style power input connector (A) that is the 12v supply for the whole RepRap machine, and an RS232 connector (B) that is the communications link to the computer controlling the machine. (C) is a power-on indicator LED. There is a row of six power output connectors at (D); these are wired into the other circuit boards in the RepRap machine to power them (only five are used for the Darwin design; the other is spare). The RS232 signals are converted to and from 5v TTL levels by the chip (G) and its associated capacitors. The data from (G) to and from RepRap's communications ring is sent and received by the connectors at (E). (F) is a large smoothing capacitor to keep the 12v supply clean.<br />
<br />
* '''You'll need a [[SolderingToolKit|soldering toolkit]] to do most of this.'''<br />
* '''Read our [[ElectronicsFabricationGuide|Electronics Fabrication Guide]] if you're new.'''<br />
* '''Refer to the [[PowerComms_1_2_BOM|bill of materials]] for information on parts.'''<br />
<br />
<br clear="both"/><br />
<br />
== Build Board ==<br />
<br />
=== Oops! Board Bugs ===<br />
<br />
==== v1.2.0 ====<br />
<br />
This was our first experience with ordering bulk PCB's. There were a couple mistakes. We've very sorry. None are a big deal, more like inconveniences.<br />
<br />
'''Drill Holes'''<br />
<br />
The biggest one, is that the mounting holes did not get drilled. There are 2 spots on each corner of the board where they were supposed to go, but did not actually get made. Drill those out with a 3mm (3/16") drill bit. If you do this before you build the boards, it will be easier.<br />
<br />
'''Wrong Silkscreen'''<br />
<br />
The silkscreen for the 4 pin power connector was rotated 180 degrees the wrong way. Follow the directions on this page carefully and you'll be fine. If you do manage to solder [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] it in the wrong way, its okay, but your board just won't work properly. If this happens, simply unsolder it, flip it around, and solder it back in.<br />
<br />
==== v1.2.1 ====<br />
<br />
None so far. Please report any bugs in the forums.<br />
<br />
=== Printed Circuit Board ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/503329535/ [[image:cache-503329535_a29fcc9205.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
You can either [http://parts.rrrf.org/product_info.php?products_id=28 buy this PCB] from the RepRap Research Foundation, or you can make your own. The image above shows the professionally manufactured Power Communications v1.2 PCB ready for soldering. Its also cheap, only $5.00 USD.<br />
<br />
'''File Locations'''<br />
<br />
You can [http://downloads.sourceforge.net/reprap/PowerComms-1.2.zip?modtime=1180374732&big_mirror=0 download the electronics files from Sourceforge]. This zip file contains the Kicad files, as well as the GERBER files you can use to [[MakePCBInstructions|build it yourself]] (or have it manufactured).<br />
<br />
If you'd like to make your own board, follow the [[DarwinPowerAndCommunicationsCard|v1.1 directions]], as they use an older design (but identical/compatible) that is more suited to home manufacture.<br />
<br />
<br clear="both"/><br />
<br />
=== Build Process ===<br />
<br />
==== Soldering Round 1: Power ====<br />
<br />
Solder in all the components except U2 and its four associated capacitors (C2...C5); that is, solder in all the components with red spots above. Solder in the lowest profile components first, then the higher ones. It will make it easier and the components will be more secure.<br />
<br />
'''Recommended Order'''<br />
# 16 pin DIP socket<br />
# LED - polarity important. check silkscreen.<br />
# resistor - any orientation<br />
# 78L05 - match up flat side with silkscreen<br />
# C1 (100uf) - polarity important. check silkscreen.<br />
# 12 pin power connector - key/tab towards inside of board<br />
# 2 pin signal connectors - key/tab towards inside of board<br />
# 4 pin power connector - v1.2.1: follow silkscreen. v1.2: see bugs above.<br />
# DB9 Serial connector<br />
# C6 (4700uf) - polarity important. check silkscreen.<br />
<br />
9-pin PCB D connectors come with a variety of ways of attaching them to the PCB in addition to the actual active pins. If you use our board and our supplier, the connector should just snap into place. Although different designs put the mountings in different places. If your connector coincides with those holes, all is well and good. But if it doesn't it may be simplest just to cut/saw-off the mountings and rely on the pins to hold the connector in place. This should be quite strong enough. Make sure you don't short any connections if you modify your connector.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Testing Round 1 ====<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/518486510 [[image:cache-518486510_46843b5850.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
Plug a disk drive power connector from your power supply directly to the board. Turn the power supply on. Do not be surprised if there is a healthy crack and spark from the socket as you plug things in - the large capacitor takes a bit of filling up with electricity.<br />
<br />
'''Check for smoke.'''<br />
The RepRap is a non-smoking area. If there's smoke, something went wrong.<br />
<br />
'''Is there light?'''<br />
Check that the LED lights up. If it doesn't, you've made a mistake. <br />
<br />
'''Proper voltages?'''<br />
Next put a voltmeter on the tracks that will connect to pins 15 and 16 of U2. This should measure 5v from the voltage regulator U1. If it doesn't, you've made another mistake.<br />
<br />
==== Soldering Round 2: Communications ====<br />
<br />
'''Disconnect the power.''' <br />
<br />
Solder in C2...C5. Take particular care with the capacitors to get the polarity right - we designed it so all the capacitors face the same way. Negative should be towards you when holding the board so you can read the text on the silkscreen. The spacing of the holes for C5 is different than for C2, C3, and C4 (due to the straddling of a circuit). Simply bend the component legs apart a bit, then solder in normally. Finally, check it all again before you next apply power.<br />
<br />
If you soldered in a DIP socket, then you simply plug U2 into that. Otherwise, solder U2 directly to the board.<br />
<br />
==== Testing Round 2 ====<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/518515175/ [[image:cache-518515175_06897fd827.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
Plug your power back in and turn the power supply on.<br />
<br />
'''Communications Test''' <br/><br />
A simple text communications program like minicom on Unix or Hyperterminal on Windows transmits data from the keyboard down the RS232 line. Data that comes back appears on the screen. This means that whatever the RS232 port is connected to normally has to echo what you type for it to appear on the screen.<br />
<br />
This test shortcircuits that process by wiring the output straight back to the input. But they both go through U1, so that tests the communications part of the board.<br />
<br />
Both the Transmit and Recieve connections also have a ground connection associated with them. These are not normally used; they are to allow us to use twisted pair data wires should the need arise later. The connections you want are the pins labeled T and R, the right of each pair. If you want, you can wire up a test connector that shorts them when you plug it into both.<br />
<br />
Connect the card to the serial port of your computer. Then, short the transmit (T) and receive (R) lines that would normally go to the token ring. Now, check that a terminal program (like minicom or hyperterminal) echoes data to its screen when you type.<br />
<br />
(In the finished RepRap machine T goes to the recieve input of the first RepRap control board - usually the X axis; R comes from the transmit output of the last RepRap control board - usually the support material extruder.)<br />
<br />
=== Debugging your serial connection ===<br />
<br />
[[image:DarwinPowerAndCommunicationsCard-DB9F_232Pinout.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Experienced hardware folk never trust their hardware. First make sure your serial port operates, which is easily done by shorting the Rx and Tx lines out on the serial lead from your PC. These are pins 2 & 3 and a small screwdriver will do the job. Do not touch the other pins or the casing. With the other arms, type characters at a dumb serial terminal such as Hyperterminal (Windows), minicom (Linux) or kermit (Linux) which has had all flow control turned off. If the port works, your typing should echo back - and stop echoing when you remove the screwdriver. If it doesn't work, you have the wrong port, a dead lead, a dead port, or if really unlucky a combination of the above. In linux the serial ports are referenced via ttyS0 (for COM1) and ttyS1 (for COM2), or ttyUSB0 (for usb <-> serial connectors. You can check which ports were detected by running one or more of the following:<br />
<br />
'''find your tty device''' <br/><br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
<tt>dmesg || grep tty</tt> <br/><br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
<tt>cat /var/log/messages || grep tty</tt> <br/><br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''look at the tty settings. use man stty to find out what each option means.''' <br/><br />
<tt>stty -F /dev/ttyS0</tt><br />
<br />
'''for my usb serial adaptor, i had to turn off imaxbel (beep and do not flush a full input buffer on a character)''' <br/><br />
<tt>stty -F /dev/ttyUSB0 imaxbel</tt><br />
<br />
<br />
When testing with comms software ensure flow control is set to "none". If in doubt for the other settings, use the following (though it's not too important at this stage): 19200 baud, 8 bits, no parity, one stop bit (8-N-1). If available, set carrier-detect to off.<br />
<br />
<br />
Use the same principle to test the connector to the board, shorting it out with a screwdriver while no power is applied is acceptable. The pins to short are pins 2 and 3 of the serial connector on the module board (while the cable is still attached to the PC). If that doesn't work, your cable is suspect.<br />
<br />
If all this checks out and you have verified the stripboard soldering, then you can apply power to the board. If you have a multimeter, check the following voltage levels are present. If any of these are wrong it suggests a defect in your wiring. In each case, measure from the first pin with the negative input of your voltmeter to the second pin with the positive input of your voltmeter. For these measurements, plug the power in, but do not plug the device into the PC. Also leave the communications connectors empty.<br />
<br />
* Pin 15 to 16: 5V. A mismatch suggests a power supply or 7805 issue.<br />
* Pin 15 to 14: -7 to -15V. A mismatch suggests a short on the board or a miswiring of the cable.<br />
* Pin 15 to 13: 0V. A mismatch suggests a miswired cable.<br />
* Pin 15 to 12: 5V<br />
* Pin 15 to 11: 4 to 4.5V.<br />
<br />
Now plug the serial connector into the PC (still leaving the communications connectors empty). You should now measure the following:<br />
<br />
* Pin 15 to 16: 5V. A mismatch suggests a power supply or 7805 issue.<br />
* Pin 15 to 14: -7 to -15V. A mismatch suggests a short on the board or a miswiring of the cable.<br />
* Pin 15 to 13: -7 to -15V. A mismatch suggests a miswired cable.<br />
* Pin 15 to 12: 5V<br />
* Pin 15 to 11: 4 to 4.5V.<br />
<br />
Now get a module connector cable (which is either 3 or 4 wires depending on how you're constructing your modules) and connect J2 to J3. This makes the comms card behave as if it is addressing other controller cards. Be sure that you don't get your cable twisted when you connect J2 to J3. Doing so shorts your 12V pin directly to ground, a move that is unlikely to do your power supply a lot of good.<br />
<br />
Alternatively, you can simply attach a jumper wire from pin 1 on the outgoing comms connector (J2) to pin 1 on the incoming communications connector (J3). Take great care not to get your connector cable twisted. <br />
<br />
You should now observe the following:<br />
<br />
* Pin 15 to 11: 5V (rather than somewhere from 4 to 4.5V)<br />
<br />
At this stage you should be able to do an internal echo test. <br />
<br />
Using your comms software and the same settings as you previously used (no flow control), type or send some characters. The exact same characters should echo back to you. If you remove the power from the module, the echo should stop. Turn it on again and check that echo returns. Similarly, if you remove the comms cable echo should stop, put it back it and check that echo returns.<br />
<br />
For Linux you can also use the 'poke' utility form the firmware toolkit to test the interface. I used device /dev/ttyUSB0 - a serial USB adaptor - as my serial port on a Linux box, Windows users probably have COM1 or something similar. Here is the command line; change your device to match and make sure you have access rights to that device (in Ubuntu you must be a member of the system ''dialout'' group):<br />
:<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
<tt>echo 0||./poke -d 2 -t /dev/ttyUSB0 -v -w</tt><br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It should come back with:<br />
<nowiki><br />
<54><51><31><02><00><00><d0>[54][51][31][02][00][00][d0]Read fail 2<br />
<54><51><31><02><00><00><d0>[54][51][31][02][00][00][d0]Read fail 2<br />
<54><51><31><02><00><00><d0>[54][51][31][02][00][00][d0]Read fail 2<br />
<54><51><31><02><00><00><d0>[54][51][31][02][00][00][d0]Read fail 2<br />
</nowiki><br />
<br />
If this does not happen, type:<br />
<br />
<tt>stty -F $serialport -echo -cooked</tt><br />
<br />
and try again.<br />
<br />
For Windows the poke utility is not currently available. You can use the Java stepper exerciser application instead. If you launch it and drag one of the position sliders, you should see the following error: <tt>Update exception: java.io.IOException: Received data packet when expecting ACK</tt><br />
<br />
Now you are ready to build and connect your [[DarwinStepperController|stepper controller board]].<br />
<br />
<br />
==== More Debugging Instructions ====<br />
<br />
* [http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dd5prwmp_6ctfmjb NopHead has written up a great debug howto here.]<br />
<br />
=== Congratulations! You have finished your first RepRap circuit. ===<br />
<br />
== Technical Stuff ==<br />
<br />
=== Circuit Diagram ===<br />
<br />
<center><br />
[[image:DarwinPowerAndCommunicationsCard-comms-circuit.png|thumb]]<br />
</center><br />
<br />
=== Kicad Board Layout ===<br />
<br />
<center><br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/486899464/ [[image:cache-486899464_28b8d97151.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
</center><br />
<br />
=== Circuit Discussion ===<br />
<br />
P1 is the main 12v power input connector - it uses a header that you can plug a standard PC power supply into. The 12v supply is taken straight through (via a big smoothing capacitor) to P4. These are the power distribution lines to the rest of the RepRap PCBs. There is one spare - you only need five for the Darwin design.<br />
<br />
DB9 is a female PCB-mounting 9-pin RS232 socket. Serial data from your computer comes in here, is converted to TTL voltage levels by U2, and is fed out to the rest of the RepRap PCBs via P2 and P3. Remember that RepRap communicates using a token ring, so only two connectors are needed for data. U2 gets the 5v power it needs from U1.<br />
<br />
Note that it has large ground and 12v planes on the board. This both saves etching chemicals and also handles the current needed by all the other RepRap boards.<br />
<br />
Finally there is an indicator LED so you can remember when you've left your RepRap switched on...<br />
<br />
== Older Designs ==<br />
<br />
* This design is based on the older, [[DarwinPowerAndCommunicationsCard|Power and Communications board v1.1]]<br />
* Which is based on the older, [[BuildingAStripboardCommsController|stripboard comms controller]] designed by Simon. <br />
<br />
<br />
== Future Boards ==<br />
<br />
[[PowerCommsBoard_1_3|Power and Communications v1.3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Darwin]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Template:RepRapPro_extruder_drive_assembly&diff=85135Template:RepRapPro extruder drive assembly2013-03-07T12:20:05Z<p>Ipinson: /* Step 1: Motor and hobbed stud assembly */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Tools=<br />
<br />
*10mm (M6) spanner<br />
*Adjustable spanner<br />
*Allen key<br />
*Phillips screwdriver<br />
*Tweezers<br />
*2mm drill<br />
<br />
=Step 1: Motor and hobbed stud assembly=<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''RP parts''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|rowspan="8"|[[File:reprappro-huxley-extruder-drive-components-1.jpg|300px]]<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-M6_block.jpg]] <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-large_gear.jpg]]<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-small_gear.jpg]] <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|'''Hardware''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|M6 hobbed stud <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M6 full nut <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M6 nyloc nut <br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M6 split washer <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M6 plain washer <br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|626 Bearing <br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|NEMA 14 stepper motor <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3x10mm socket set screw (Grub)<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nut<br />
|1 <br />
|-<br />
|M3x8mm screws <br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|M3x25mm countersunk screw <br />
|1 (Mendel only - not Huxley)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
There is an alternate design to the small gear that needs a grub screw shown in the list above:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-extruder-drive-alternate-gear.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
This needs no screw and is just a push fit onto the motor's shaft.<br />
<br />
If you are building a Mendel drop the countersunk screw through the mounting hole in angled section on the printed block under where the motor will go - head towards the motor. (Huxley does not need this screw.) You won't be able to fit the screw after you have attached the motor.<br />
<br />
Use the 8mm M3 screws to attach the motor to the block. Put it as far from the centre as it will go in its slots. Don't do the screws up tight. The motor wires come out towards the bottom of the picture:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-extruder-drive-motor-fitting_mod_MA.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Push the M6 nut (plain, not one of the nylocks) into the hexagonal recess in the big gear.<br />
<br />
Put a bearing on the hobbed 6mm stud (note the relative positions of the short and long threads), followed by two plain M6 washers, followed by the gear with its nut. The nut [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] should face away from the bearing.<br />
<br />
You are going to adjust things so the gears mesh.<br />
<br />
If you have the grub-screw gear, put the M3 nut into the slot in the small gear and run the M3 set screw through it. The small gear may need reaming out by hand with a 5mm bit. Some motors have a flat on the shaft that runs all the way to the motor case. If yours is one of these, put the small gear on the shaft with its hub towards the motor. Then put the bearing in its hole so the big gear meshes with the small one. If the flat stops short of the case, put the bearing and the big gear on first, then put the small gear on the other way round (as in the picture below).<br />
<br />
If you have the push-fit small gear, push that onto the motor shaft with its flange towards the motor's body.<br />
<br />
Take things apart and put them together again, adjusting the motor's position in its slots, until the gears mesh nicely.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-extruder-drive-motor-fitted.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
When you are happy tighten all the motor screws, reassemble everything else, and tighten the small-gear set screw. Make sure that the small gear hub is not rubbing on the big gear - there should be about half a millimetre clearance between them.<br />
<br />
Put the other bearing in on the other side of the block.<br />
<br />
Put the split M6 washer on the side with the big gear so it bears on the gear's nut, then put M6 nylock nuts on both ends.<br />
<br />
Tighten the nylocks, while checking the hobbing against the 2mm hole down through the block where the filament will run. The hobbing should be centred on this. Undo or do up the big gear with its nut, and the two nylocks until this is so.<br />
<br />
Don't tighten the nylocks so far that the gears, stud, and motor can't rotate freely.<br />
<br />
=Step 2: Idler=<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''RP parts''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|rowspan="15"|[[File:reprappro-huxley-extruder-drive-components-2.jpg|300px]]<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-idler.jpg]]<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|'''Hardware''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|M3x30mm screw <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|626 bearing <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3x45 screws <br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M6x20mm socket set screw <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 washers<br />
|6<br />
|-<br />
|M3 full nuts <br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nylock nut <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|Springs <br />
|2<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Put the bearing on the M6 set screw and drop it into the slot on the printed part. Check that it rotates freely. If it does not, use a blade to remove a little material where it is binding.<br />
<br />
Fit the idler to the drive with the 30mm M3 screw, two washers - one each side - and the nylock nut. Don't over-tighten it - it must move freely. The photo below is wrong - you want the head of the screw on the gear side and the nut facing you in the picture. You will find that if you rotate the gear you can get the screw through the holes in it. This makes the idler much easier to remove when it is mounted on the RepRap machine.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-extruder-drive-idler-fitted.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Put the springs on the long screws. Sandwich each spring between a pair of washers.<br />
<br />
Put the screws through as shown. If you drop the nuts into their holes with tweezers first, then hold a screwdriver blade over them while you tighten the screws this is less fiddly.<br />
<br />
=Step 3: The Bowden tube=<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''RP parts''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|rowspan="8"|[[File:reprappro-huxley-extruder-drive-components-3.jpg|300px]]<br>Don't confuse the PTFE tube (shown) with the shorter<br> translucent heatshrink also supplied with the kit.<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-extruder-drive-tongue.png|150px]]<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|'''Hardware''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|slotted brass retainer <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|PTFE tube <br />
|1<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Use a sharp blade to trim a few millimetres off the end of the tube at right angles to get a clean square end.<br />
<br />
If your kit has a 4mm diameter PTFE tube supplied (as opposed to 3mm) then make a small cone on the end with a pencil sharpener. Don't cut too far - PTFE is very soft. The cone makes it easier to start the thread.<br />
<br />
Screw the tube into the brass retainer. Look in the other end (a magnifying glass is useful) to see when it gets to the end of the internal thread, then stop.<br />
<br />
Screwing the tube in will have reduced its internal diameter slightly. Gently twist a 2mm drill by hand in the end of the brass to thin the tube where it is inside the screw thread. If you have a small hand-chuck this is made easier. The picture shows this being done for the other brass connector that you will install on the next page. The method is the same:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-hotend-enlarging-ptfe.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Push a short length of 1.75mm build filament down the tube from its free end to clear out any PTFE swarf.<br />
<br />
Push the brass retainer into the drive, and secure it with the printed tongue. The thin end of the tongue goes to the right in this picture:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-extruder-drive-tube-fitted.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
'''Note: the bowden start fitting (brass retainer) must be held centrally in the hole. If the fitting diameter is quite a bit smaller than the hole in the extruder drive block, wrap a couple of turns of masking (or similar) tape around the fitting before pushing it in.'''<br />
<br />
Feed in the short length of 1.75mm filament. The compression screws should be done up just tight enough that when the filament is trapped in the drive you cannot pull it out by hand - no tighter. (Hold the big gear still when you tug to test this.) Turn the device by hand. The filament should feed slowly and smoothly down the tube.</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRapPro_Mendel_y_axis_assembly&diff=85134RepRapPro Mendel y axis assembly2013-03-07T12:19:54Z<p>Ipinson: /* Step 1: Y motor and mount */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RepRapPro Mendel Contents}}<br />
<br />
=Goal=<br />
<br />
By the end of this stage, your machine should look like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-y-axis-finished.jpg|500px|RepRapPro Mendel assembled frame]]<br />
<br />
=Tools=<br />
<br />
You will need the following tools<br />
<br />
*M8 (13mm) spanner<br />
*Adjustable spanner<br />
*M3 Allen key<br />
*M3 set screw Allen key<br />
*M3 spanner/nut runner<br />
*Long-nosed pliers<br />
*Side cutters<br />
<br />
=Step 1: Y motor and mount=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|columnspan="2"|[[File:Reprappro-mendel-y-motor-mount-parts.jpg|300px]]<br />
|- <br />
|'''Item'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|Printed Y motor mount<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|Printed Y motor lid<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|Nema 17 motor (see below)<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 35mm screws<br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 10mm set screw<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nut<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 8mm screws<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M3 washers<br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|Moulded toothed pulley<br />
|1<br />
|}<br />
<br />
The Kit contains four Nema 17 Motors and one smaller Nema 14 Motor. The smaller one is for the extruder drive.<br />
<br />
Later versions of Mendel have printed toothed-belt pulleys like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-y-new-pulley.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
These simply push-fit onto the motor shaft and don't need a set screw - see below. <br />
<br />
Use the two short screws to attach the motor to the half of its mount with the projections:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-y-motor-mount-1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
The wires come out of the bottom side of the motor in this picture.<br />
<br />
If you have a moulded pulley, screw the set screw into the toothed-belt pulley. Take care not to cross the threads - the plastic is not hard. Screw it in far enough to project into the hole down the middle, then back it off so it is no longer projecting. Blow any displaced pieces of plastic from the central hole. Put the pulley on the motor shaft with its hub outermost, as shown. Use the toothed belt to get it roughly the right distance along the shaft. Align the set screw with the flat on the shaft, and tighten it. ''' Do not over tighten it''' - the pulley has an internal embedded nut, and over tightening will cause this to fracture the pulley.<br />
<br />
If you have a printed pulley push it onto the shaft. It should be a tight fit, and you may have to tap it into place. Use a soft hammer, or a wood block. If you place [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] a tube against the pulley that will fit over the motor shaft (or an M8 nut works well), you can tap the end of the tube to place the pulley. Support the motor shaft, not the motor body, from the other end as you tap. You can secure the pulley with a drop of superglue if you like (make sure the shaft is completely free of grease). '''Take care''' that no glue gets near the shaft's entry to the motor.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-y-motor-mount-2.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Use the remaining screws, washers and nut to attach the other half of the mount cage. There is a recess for the nut, which should be a tight fit. Take care when tightening to pull the nut into its recess that the hexagon of the nut is aligned with the hexagonal recess.<br />
<br />
=Step: 2 The Y frog=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|columnspan="2"|[[File:Reprappro-mendel-y-frog-parts.jpg|300px]]<br />
|- <br />
|'''Item'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|Lasercut frog<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|LM8UU bearings<br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|Printed bearing holders<br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|Printed 7mm thick belt clamps<br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|Printed belt guide<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|Printed 4mm thick ridged belt clamp<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|Printed 12mm thick ridged belt adjuster<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 40mm screws<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 35mm screws<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 20mm screws<br />
|7<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nylock nut<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nuts<br />
|10<br />
|-<br />
|M3 washers<br />
|20<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Attach the bearing holders to the lasercut part with 20mm screws, nuts and washers (2 washers per screw, one on each side). Later versions of Mendel come with a Y-frog that doesn't have the cut-out on the left in the picture below. The Y-frog is otherwise symmetrical, so you can swap top and bottom, it makes no difference. Don't tighten the nuts:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-y-frog-1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Push the bearings into the bearing holders '''from the side''' as shown on the right. '''Do not try to clip them in from on top.''' The bearings should be a snug fit. But if they are a bit lose, simply wrap a little Kapton tape two or three times round the lose bearing. Get it flat without wrinkles or bubbles.<br />
<br />
Attach the belt holders:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-y-frog-2.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
The far one in the picture uses the 40mm screws. From the top the order is:<br />
<br />
*Belt guide (curved part towards you in the picture).<br />
*Lasercut frog<br />
*Tensioner (hexagonal cavity towards you in the picture; grip end pattern downwards).<br />
*7mm thick clamp<br />
<br />
The near one in the picture uses the 35mm screws. From the top the order is:<br />
<br />
*7mm thick clamp.<br />
*4mm thick grip (grip on top).<br />
*Lasercut frog<br />
*7mm thick clamp (just for load spreading).<br />
<br />
Here is a view from underneath to reveal some of the hidden detail:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-y-frog-3.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Fit the nylock nut in the hexagonal hole in the tensioner, and loosely put the remaining screw in it. This screw will tension the belt by pushing on it. <br />
<br />
Now to fit the frog to the machine:<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-y-frog-fitted.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
With the front of the machine facing you, slacken the '''right-hand nuts only''' that hold the U clamps with the smooth Y rods. (If you leave the left-hand nuts alone you will be able to re-tighten the rods in exactly the same place - so make sure they don't turn.)<br />
<br />
Slide the rods towards the back of the machine. Slide the Y frog over them, using a gentle twisting motion to insert the rods into bearings while watching the opposite end of each bearing to make sure none of its balls get pushed out of their tracks. If they do, they can be reseated by pressing them back into the track with the tip of a chopstick. As a precaution, cover the area under the frame with a tissue to catch any balls that might fall out.<br />
<br />
Replace the rods in their U clamps and re-tighten the right-hand nuts on those.<br />
<br />
Tighten the M3 screws and nuts that attach the bearing holders to the frog.<br />
<br />
Check that the frog slides completely freely back and forth. If it is tight at one end and lose at the other, then the rods aren't parallel. If it is tight at both ends and lose in the middle, then the rods are too close or too far apart. In both cases, measure the rod gap (which should be 175 mm from before - remember the lasercut measuring template) at both ends and in the middle, and get things right by adjusting the '''right-hand rod only'''.<br />
<br />
=Step 3: The Y belt =<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|columnspan="2"|[[File:reprappro-mendel-y-belt-parts.jpg|300px]]<br />
|- <br />
|'''Item'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|Toothed belt<br />
|see below<br />
|-<br />
|Printed XY endstop holder<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|microswitch<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M2.5x16mm screws<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M2.5 washers<br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|M2.5 nuts<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M3x20mm screw<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 washers<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nuts<br />
|1<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Note that the X and Y axis endstop holders are identical, and you want one of those. The Z endstop holder has a longer leg.<br />
<br />
Use the full length of toothed belt with your kit to fit this together. You will cut it to the right length when you have finished this step.<br />
<br />
Bend the lead on the microswitch as shown in the picture above.<br />
<br />
Fit the Y motor and mount:<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-y-motor-fitted.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Adjust its position so that the middle of the bearing is opposite the belt-tensioning screw on the frog. You will find that for this and the idler below you can put your eye level with the frog and line up the middle of the bearings with the belt guide on the frog.<br />
<br />
Tighten the four M8 nuts that hold the Y motor mount, taking care that the distance from the left-hand top and bottom nuts to the corresponding nuts on the frame vertices are the same.<br />
<br />
Tighten the Y-belt idler:<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-y-belt-idler.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Line the bearing up to match the belt clamp on the frog.<br />
<br />
If you have done everything right so far, the belt tensioner on the frog should be towards the back of the machine.<br />
<br />
Put one end of the belt between the bottom clamp on the tensioner and the tensioner part with the nylock nut in. Have the free length of the belt pointing towards the front of the machine. Position the belt so that its teeth lock with the indentations in the tensioner. You should be able to feel this as you move the belt.<br />
<br />
Run the belt up through the hole in the frog, and fold it back in the groove in the belt guide. Get the belt square and central in the guide and clamp, then tighten the M3 screws and nuts that retain it. These need to be tight, but not so tight that they bend the clamp.<br />
<br />
Run the belt over the bearing above the motor, round the motor's drive pulley, under the frog to the front of the machine, over the idler pulley, and back to the clamp on the front of the frog.<br />
<br />
Thread the belt through the front clamp, get everything square, and pull the belt so there is no slack. It doesn't need to be taught.<br />
<br />
Tighten the clamp.<br />
<br />
Check the toothed drive pulley on the motor - it needs to be positioned so that the belt runs over the centre of the bearing. Slacken its set screw and move it if need be.<br />
<br />
Cut off any spare belt with sidecutters - leave about 20mm free sticking out of the far side of the clamp.<br />
<br />
Set the belt tension with the tensioning screw. The belt needs to be taught, but no so taught that it impedes the turning of the motor. Be gentle...<br />
<br />
Check that the frog still moves freely front and back in the machine - there should be a certain resistance from the magnets in the motor, that is all.<br />
<br />
Also check that the belt runs true. It should not tend to move from side to side more than 1mm or so. If it drifts (and especially if it rubs against edges and so becomes hard to move) then adjust the front bearing left or right<br />
to get the belt running square over that. You can move the motor left and right too, but it is often more effective to slacken its nuts and to tilt it very slightly relative to the threaded bars by not having the bars at the very bottom of the U-shaped slots in the motor's carrying frame. Then re-tighten the nuts.<br />
<br />
Cut the off the excess belt - the remainder will be used to make the X axis. Leave 10mm or so sticking out of the clamps at either end.<br />
<br />
Finally, attach the endstop microswitch to the h-shaped printed bracket with the M2.5 screws, washers and nuts. Attach the bracket to the frame at the back beside the motor:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-y-endstop-fitted.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Use the M3 screw, two washers, and nut to secure it. Before tightening these, make sure that the frog hits the button on the switch at the end of its travel.<br />
<br />
=Next stage=<br />
<br />
[[RepRapPro_Mendel_x_axis_assembly|Assemble the X axis.]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Build_Instructions]]<br />
[[Category:RepRapPro]]<br />
[[Category:Mendel]]<br />
[[Category:Mendel_Development]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Adrians_Prusa_Notes&diff=85133Adrians Prusa Notes2013-03-07T12:17:10Z<p>Ipinson: /* Mechanics */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Adrian's Prusa Notes<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = ab-prusa-all.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = How Adrian builds a Prusa Mendel.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = Adrianbowyer<br />
|reprap = Prusa Mendel<br />
|categories = [[Category:Prusa_Mendel Development]]<br />
|cadModel = https://github.com/AdrianBowyer/PrusaMendel<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==Introduction==<br />
<br />
This is my page of notes on how I put together a [[Prusa Mendel]]. These are not so much improvements, but more modifications and options done for both personal convenience and the convenience of [http://reprapltd.com RepRap Ltd] and its customers, as this is the one we sell. I have documented them here as others may find them helpful too.<br />
<br />
This page is intended to be read in conjunction with the [[Prusa_Mendel_Assembly|main RepRap page on Prusa Mendel Assembly here]] and the [http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions/ Prusa Visual Assembly Guide]. It is a good idea to read both of the last two because the guide is beautifully clear, but the wiki assembly instructions are easier to correct and to enhance, and so tend to be slightly more up-to-date.<br />
<br />
The files needed for what's here are in my fork of the Prusa Mendel Git repository here: https://github.com/AdrianBowyer/PrusaMendel in the directory '''AdriansPrusaModifications'''.<br />
<br />
====Configuration====<br />
<br />
The main components I use in my version of Prusa Mendel are:<br />
<br />
# [[Sanguinololu]] electronics,<br />
# Aluminium heated bed,<br />
# My [[RepRap_Universal_Mini_Extruder|Universal mini extruder]], and<br />
# 30A 12v power supply.<br />
<br />
I also use some modified printed parts and a few extra ones. All this is described and linked to in the sections below.<br />
<br />
==Tools==<br />
<br />
I put a big cardboard box on the bench then built a Prusa Mendel (the one in the pictures below). Every tool I picked up I put down in the box, except tools that couldn't be moved, which got a Post-It stuck to them. Here's the list of what had a Post-It on and what was in the box at the end. You definitely don't need all of these - indeed some are duplicates. But I've put the list here in case your spouse is Christmas shopping...<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|bench vice<br />
|----<br />
|small drill press<br />
|----<br />
|centre punch<br />
|----<br />
|countersink drill bit <br />
|----<br />
|crimp tools ([http://uk.rs-online.com/web/0779554.html this one] and [http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipment/Crimping-tool-for-PCB-connectors-30535 this one]) <br />
|----<br />
|dentist's mirror on stick<br />
|----<br />
|digital callipers<br />
|----<br />
|digital infra red thermometer<br />
|----<br />
|drill bits: 2mm 2.5mm 3mm 3.5mm 4mm 5mm 8mm 8.5mm<br />
|----<br />
|engineer's square<br />
|----<br />
|forceps<br />
|----<br />
|jeweller's loupe<br />
|----<br />
|Junior hacksaw<br />
|----<br />
|long steel rule (600 mm)<br />
|----<br />
|long-nosed pliers<br />
|----<br />
|M3 Allen key<br />
|----<br />
|M3 Allen key type screw driver<br />
|----<br />
|M3 and M8 dies and a die wrench<br />
|----<br />
|M3 grub/set-screw Allen key<br />
|----<br />
|M3 nut driver<br />
|----<br />
|M3 spanner<br />
|----<br />
|M3 starting tap and a small tap wrench<br />
|----<br />
|M4 Allen key<br />
|----<br />
|M4 Allen-key type screw driver<br />
|----<br />
|M4 nut driver<br />
|----<br />
|M4 spanner<br />
|----<br />
|magnifying glass<br />
|----<br />
|multimeter<br />
|----<br />
|pen knife<br />
|----<br />
|pin chuck<br />
|----<br />
|scalpel<br />
|----<br />
|scissors<br />
|----<br />
|set of metric feeler gauges<br />
|----<br />
|side cutters<br />
|----<br />
|small cross-head screw driver<br />
|----<br />
|small electrical screwdriver<br />
|----<br />
|small G clamps<br />
|----<br />
|small hammer<br />
|----<br />
|small pliers<br />
|----<br />
|small soft hammer<br />
|----<br />
|small wall file<br />
|----<br />
|solder station<br />
|----<br />
|spirit level<br />
|----<br />
|Third pair of hands croc-clip clamps<br />
|----<br />
|two M8 spanners<br />
|----<br />
|wire strippers<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Mechanics==<br />
<br />
[[File:ab-prusa-all.jpg|400px|right]]<br />
<br />
The most significant difference between my version of Prusa Mendel and the standard one is that I reverse the X axis. Looking at the front of the machine with the Y motor at the back '''(note that this is the opposite of the ''front'' and ''back'' used in the [[Prusa Mendel Assembly|standard Prusa Mendel assembly instructions]])''', the X motor is on the left, not the right. This allows easier wire layouts, and - in particular - allows [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] neat connection of the wiring to both the X axis and the heated bed by cable-tying it along lengths of 3mm filament for support. It also allows better access to the front of the machine (because there's no Y motor in the way).<br />
<br />
I have also made a number of minor mechanical alterations that are listed in the next section.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
===Useful jig===<br />
<br />
There is a useful jig [http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Prusa-mendel-length-jig.svg here], that - if you have access to a laser cutter and cut it out of MDF - will allow you easily to set the lengths of the frame triangles and the gap between them in the X direction. You could also print it, glue it to a piece of wood, and cut it out with a muscle-powered cutter...<br />
<br />
===Altered reprapped parts===<br />
<br />
====endstop-holder.scad====<br />
<br />
[[File:endstop.png|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
The endstop holder is the left hand image. It holds a microswitch with 9.5mm mounting centres and M2.5x12 mounting screws. Get a microswitch with just a button, not the lever as well - it's more accurate.<br />
<br />
If you set the variable '''pcb_mount=true;''' in the OpenSCAD file it also generates a PCB holder (right image) to allow you to mount the RepRap control electronics on the machine using M3 screws. See below.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
====pla-bushings-4.scad====<br />
<br />
[[File:pla-bushings-4.png|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
If you have all 12 PLA bushings in an array as a single STL file it makes arranging them in a build less versatile as you can't cram them into small spaces. Arranging them one at a time gives a lot of versatility, but they are so delicate that they can detach, even from a well-heated bed.<br />
<br />
My compromise it to have four on their own raft. This prints reliably, and is easy to slide about between other parts to print wherever you want. Print three of these to get 12, obviously. The raft is thin enough to cut from the finished parts easily with a scalpel. Mind your fingers... <br />
<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
====x-end-idler.scad====<br />
<br />
[[File:x-end-idler.png|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
I have replaced the unsupported bridges with thin webs (left picture), which both print more cleanly and are stronger. The M8 nut cavity now has a hole through for the M8 threaded rod, and a 45<sup>o</sup> conical base to the barrier that rests on the nut (right picture). This again prints more cleanly.<br />
<br />
When you come to put the X bars through the holes you will find that they are pretty parallel when you measure the gaps between them at either end - typically to within 0.3mm or so. But if you are an absolute perfectionist you can get them exact. Cut some strips of paper 30mm long by 5mm wide. Use these as shims between the rods and the angled tops of the holes in which they fit. You will find that with care you can get the gaps between the rods to match to within a few hundredths of a millimeter. This, of course, allows the X carriage to slide very smoothly indeed.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
====x-end-motor.scad====<br />
<br />
[[File:x-end-motor.png|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
This has the same webs and cone as above. In addition there are two small holes (A A) that allow a 3mm diameter length of filament to be attached using a cable tie to run the X-axis wiring.<br />
<br />
[[File:x-wire-support.jpg|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
The picture on the right shows the idea, though that was taken with the old design. A 430mm length of 3mm PLA filament is held to the top of the Prusa Mendel beside the Z motor by two cable ties round the threaded rods. It loops through the hole on the right in the OpenSCAD picture and a third cable tie through the hole on the left secures it. <br />
<br />
The wires are shown taped here, before they are cable-tied. This is generally a good idea: attach all wires with sticky tape first, then, only when everything is in place and you're happy with the layout, go round putting the cable ties on and cutting off the tape.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
====xlr-bracket.scad====<br />
<br />
[[File:xlr-bracket.png|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
This fits on the frame vertex to the left of the Y motor viewed from the back of the Prusa Mendel. It holds a standard RepRap 3-pin XLR plug power connector. Remember to leave the 8mm threaded rods sticking out enough to hold it. <br />
<br />
See the power supply section below for wiring details.<br />
<br />
[[File:xlr-bracket-photo.jpg|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
====ybrac-t.scad====<br />
<br />
[[File:ybrac-t.png|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
This modification of the standard Y motor bracket has slots rather than holes. This allows it to be fitted to the Prusa Mendel and taken off without taking anything else apart. <br />
<br />
[[File:ab-prusa-y-belt-and-motor.jpg|400px|right]]<br />
<br />
The motor has also been rotated about its axis to move one of its mounting screws away from the Y belt pulley. This allows the pulley mounting to be simpler (see the photo), and the toothed drive to sit nearer the motor, thereby reducing the bending moment on the shaft and the forces on the motor bearings.<br />
<br />
I leave out the nut between the motor mount and the mudguard washer before the bearing, and just have three washers there.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
====Y belt clamp====<br />
<br />
[[File:ab-prusa-y-belt-clamp.jpg|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
If you use 10mm thick MDF (or similar) for the Y bed lower component then ignore this section.<br />
<br />
But I use 6mm MDF, which makes the Y belt run slightly out of line. Fix this simply by printing out two extra Y belt clamps (which are 4mm thick) and putting them under the belt.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
====Z motor mountings====<br />
<br />
I use the silicone tube-between-the-motor-and-the-reprapped-motor-holder trick that is [[Prusa_Mendel_Assembly#silicone_tube|mentioned here on the Prusa wiki page]].<br />
<br />
====Power supply====<br />
<br />
[[File:ps-cover.png|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
I have a design for a power supply cover that prevents inadvertent messing about with the mains connections. More details are below.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
==Heated Bed==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Bill of Materials===<br />
<br />
[http://uk.rs-online.com/web/ RS are here].<br />
<br />
[http://uk.mouser.com/ Mouser are here].<br />
<br />
[http://www.leespring.co.uk Lee Springs are here].<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Item'''<br />
|'''Source'''<br />
|'''No. off'''<br />
|----<br />
|3mm thick Aluminium sheet 230mm x 230mm<br />
|http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Forward-Metals-Ltd/_i.html?_fsub=17853190<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|Glass bed<br />
|Glass cutter<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|12 ohm 15W cased resistors<br />
|RS 160-449 / Mouser 284-HS15-12F<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|MOSFET mounting kit<br />
|RS 7073361<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|MOSFET<br />
|RS 7165558<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|10K Thermistor<br />
|RS 4840149<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|Bed springs<br />
|Lee Springs LC 047E 06M<br />
|4<br />
|----<br />
|M3x30 cs<br />
|RS 4829221<br />
|4<br />
|----<br />
|M3 x20 cs<br />
|RS 553419<br />
|4<br />
|----<br />
|M3 nylock nuts<br />
|<br />
|4<br />
|----<br />
|M3 nuts<br />
|<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|M3 x 6 cs<br />
|RS 553396<br />
|20<br />
|----<br />
|tmnl block (3)<br />
|<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|stripbd 10x13<br />
|<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3 way pin header<br />
|RS 4838477<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3 way header shell<br />
|<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|crimp connectors<br />
|<br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|LED<br />
|<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|1k resistor<br />
|<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|1M resistor<br />
|<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|foldback clips<br />
|Stationers<br />
|4<br />
|----<br />
|1.2 m 20A wire<br />
|<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Here are the dimensions of the aluminium bed and glass plate. The notch at the origin is to allow the extruder to be purged without making a messy pile on the build bed. Get your glazier to take that corner off then smooth the edges of the glass to avoid cut fingers. You can probably hacksaw the corner of a square of aluminium yourself then clean the edges with a fine file.<br />
<br />
[[File:aluminium-and-glass-bed.png|600px]]<br />
<br />
===Circuit diagram===<br />
<br />
[[File:prusa-heated-bed-schematic.png|800px|right]]<br />
<br />
The bed has 9 12 ohm resistors in parallel, giving an overall resistance of 1.333 ohms, which in turn gives 108 watts of heat at 12v. These resistors should be panel mounting high-power types with an aluminium jacket and mounting holes.<br />
<br />
The IRF2804 MOSFET is a cheap, but truly amazing, device. It will switch almost 300A (rather over-rated for this application, but why not), and has an on resistance of only 0.0023 ohms.<br />
<br />
The main power connector is an ordinary "chocolate block" 3-way screw strip. The central hole is not electrically connected, but is used mechanically - see below.<br />
<br />
Use very fat wire to connect all the above components as shown - it has to take high current.<br />
<br />
R11 and the LED in parallel with the heater resistors are an indicator which tells you when the heater is on.<br />
<br />
In addition there is a 3-way pin header that turns the MOSFET on and off, and that returns the resistance from the thermistor thermometer.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
===Construction===<br />
<br />
[[File:ab-prusa-heated-bed-1.jpg|400px|right]]<br />
<br />
Clamp the MDF Y bed symmetrically in the middle of the aluminium sheet, and use it as a template to drill four 3mm mounting holes. Countersink them on the top side. The long countersunk screws will go through these holes, with springs between the MDF and the aluminium. This allows you to adjust the heights of the four corners to get the bed exactly parallel with the X and Y movement of the Prusa Mendel. Use nylock nuts on the countersunk screws so the adjustment doesn't drift.<br />
<br />
In the corner that will be at X=0, Y=0 cut an angled corner off the aluminium bed to match the glass plate (see below). This will allow the extruder to be purged without building a messy pile on the plate before a build - the extrudate will fall through the hole.<br />
<br />
Now to decide where not to attach things. Put the MDF back on the machine and temporarily assemble the bed (no need to put the nuts on the screws). Move the bed to and fro, and work out regions where anything bolted under the aluminium may collide with, for example, the Y belt bearings or the Y smooth bar clamps, and the screws and springs. Block these regions out with a felt pen.<br />
<br />
Now position the heater resistors, the transistor, and the screw connector where they won't hit anything. Try to space the resistors evenly to get even heating. The stripboard goes right under the screw connector (copper away from the aluminium) and pokes out the back. It's for mounting the LED and the pin header connector.<br />
<br />
Mark the mounting holes of everything with the felt pen and drill them all 3mm, countersinking the other sides. <br />
<br />
When drilling and countersinking aluminium it is a good idea to use [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cutting_fluid cutting fluid] (oil-in-water emulsion) as this gives a much cleaner finish without burrs. You can usually buy the oil and emulsifier ready-mixed from machinist's suppliers - just add water in the proportions it says, and squirt the result on the job as you are drilling. This will make a mess... <br />
<br />
(I've never tried, but you could have a go at making your own cutting fluid with ordinary oil, washing-up liquid, and water. Mix the first two first. I'd guess gear oils would probably work best, as they have sulphur-containing EP additives in. But I don't know.)<br />
<br />
Don't put cutting fluid down drains.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
[[File:slotting-resistor.jpg|400px|right]]<br />
<br />
Now use a hacksaw to cut slots in the wire hole on the two leads of each resistor. This will allow you to slot connector wire in from the top (when being made; bottom when installed). This is much easier than trying to thread it through the holes. The easiest way to cut the slots is to put the tips of the leads in a vice with the resistor projecting to one side of it.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
[[File:ab-prusa-heated-bed-2.jpg|400px|right]]<br />
<br />
The holes in the resistor tabs are smaller than 3mm. But they are just right for tapping 3mm. Tap all the mounting holes in the resistors with an M3 taper tap, taking care to keep it at right angles to the resistor body.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
[[File:ab-prusa-heated-bed-3.jpg|400px|right]]<br />
<br />
Use the 6mm countersunk screws to mount the resistors to the plate. You may care to put silicone heat-sink compound under them to get good thermal contact.<br />
<br />
Use 12mm M3 countersunk screws to attach the transistor with its mounting kit (which insulates it from the aluminium), and to attach the screw strip and stripboard.<br />
<br />
Wire everything up according to the circuit diagram.<br />
<br />
Use Kapton tape to hold things down. The cross is the thermistor - put it well away from the heating resistors near the middle. I put a folded pad of paper over it to insulate it and to keep its temperature close to that of the aluminium.<br />
<br />
Nothing should be electrically shorted to the aluminium - check this with a meter.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
[[File:heated-bed-fitted.jpg|400px|right]]<br />
<br />
Here's the finished bed fitted and viewed from the back of the machine. The countersinking should obviously put the screw heads below the plane of the top of the bed - the glass plate has to sit flat on top of it.<br />
<br />
The glass plate is held down by the four foldback clips.<br />
<br />
The extruder is parked at x=0, y=0. This places it over the cut-out corner of the bed.<br />
<br />
As you can see, the machine's wiring is not finished in this picture. But the loop extending towards the camera carries the power and signal connection to the heated bed. A loop of 3mm PLA filament 640 mm long is attached to the top of the machine next to the Z motor by two cable ties. The other end of it is clamped in the central unused slot in the heated bed's screw connector. Two fat wires run the 12v supply from the power connector bottom left of the picture, and three thin wires run the on/off signal from the control electronics to the gate of the MOSFET and the connections to the thermistor.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
Here's the look-up table for the thermistor for the firmware:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
// RS thermistor 484-0149; EPCOS B57550G103J<br />
// Made with createTemperatureLookup.py (http://svn.reprap.org/trunk/reprap/firmware/Arduino/utilities/createTemperatureLookup.py)<br />
// ./createTemperatureLookup.py --r0=10000 --t0=25 --r1=0 --r2=4700 --beta=3480 --max-adc=1023<br />
// r0: 10000<br />
// t0: 25<br />
// r1: 0<br />
// r2: 4700<br />
// beta: 3480<br />
// max adc: 1023<br />
<br />
short bedtemptable[NUMTEMPS][2] = {<br />
{1, 599},<br />
{54, 160},<br />
{107, 123},<br />
{160, 103},<br />
{213, 90},<br />
{266, 79},<br />
{319, 70},<br />
{372, 62},<br />
{425, 55},<br />
{478, 49},<br />
{531, 43},<br />
{584, 37},<br />
{637, 31},<br />
{690, 25},<br />
{743, 19},<br />
{796, 12},<br />
{849, 5},<br />
{902, -3},<br />
{955, -16},<br />
{1008, -42}<br />
};<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Levelling===<br />
<br />
This is how I level the bed. For this it's very useful to have a set of 0.1mm-increment diameter drill bits to use for measuring.<br />
<br />
Start with the power off.<br />
<br />
Get the X axis parallel to the Y sliding rods. Move the bed out of the way, and use digital callipers to measure the distance from the Y rods on which the bed slides to the X rods on which the carriage slides. Turn the Z screws at either end by hand until the X axis is level.<br />
<br />
Note: some people just use three screws, rather than four, to attach the bed. This makes it easier to adjust, and the aluminium plate plus the glass plate are rigid enough to support the free corner.<br />
<br />
Mark the heads of the four screws that attach the heated bed to the bottom Y slider with a felt-tipped pen so you can easily count turns. The pitch of an M3 thread is 0.5mm, so each turn is a movement of that amount.<br />
<br />
Do the four screws up that hold the heated bed (via the springs) to the MDF Y slider finger tight (i.e. until the nylon insert in the nylock nuts just catches). Now do them up with a screwdriver and spanner, turning each exactly five turns more against its spring.<br />
<br />
Clamp the glass plate on.<br />
<br />
Power up the machine, and run the Z axis so that the extruder tip is about 2mm above the glass.<br />
<br />
Power off.<br />
<br />
Select the drill bit (around 2mm) that, when you roll its shank under the extruder tip, will just pass.<br />
<br />
Now move the X and Y axes around to try that drill bit in the four corners. Do up, and undo, the screws to get the drill's diameter between the extruder and the glass the same in all four corners. It is very important when doing the measuring to have the glass clamped to the aluminium (as the machine will be when it's working). But you may have to unclamp it to adjust the screws.<br />
<br />
Finally, when the bed is level, power up the machine and run the Z axis so that the extruder tip is about 0.2mm above the bed. Use a feeler gauge for this if you have one (though beware getting grease on the glass - fatal), or fold a strip of paper and check the thickness with the digital callipers. Move the Z endstop so that it just clicks when the bed is in this position, and tighten it.<br />
<br />
Clean the glass to get any grease or finger marks off. I use acetone-based nail varnish remover. Look at the label before you buy. Avoid anything that is acetone-free, or that has oils or lanolin dissolved in it. The cheap stuff has acetone, water and a tiny amount of glycerine - that works well.<br />
<br />
Do a final check that the extruder doesn't hit the glass anywhere, then run a print.<br />
<br />
As the print starts, watch the plastic being laid down. The extrude head should be smearing it over the glass, not laying it down to rest on it. If the head is too low or too high, you can adjust the machine while it is running. The Z motors will be energised, but you can still turn them by hand and count the clicks - make sure you turn both the same amount.<br />
<br />
If you have to adjust Z like this, stop the print when you have done so, and use a meter across the Z endstop switch as you move it to get the switch to click at exactly the height you have set.<br />
<br />
Remove the partial print, clean the bed again. You are ready to go.<br />
<br />
When running the machine it is very useful to have an IR thermometer. Use it to check the temperature of the top of the glass before you start a print. For PLA it should be about 60<sup>o</sup>C. Don't run too cold, or the PLA won't stick.<br />
<br />
When it comes to the initial gap at Z=0 between the extruder nozzle and the bed, it is better to err on the side of too big rather than too small. Too big, and the print will detach and fail - an irritation. Too small and the extruder tip may scrape on the glass and damage both - a disaster. Also, running with too narrow a gap creates excess pressure in the melt chamber, which can damage the PTFE liner of the extruder. Avoid this. It is best to adjust the extruder motor current so that the extruder misses steps when this happens, rather than ploughing on regardless. That will automatically compensate.<br />
<br />
==Extruder==<br />
<br />
[[File:extruder-fitted.jpg|400px|right]]<br />
<br />
The [[RepRap_Universal_Mini_Extruder|instructions for assembling the RepRap Universal Mini Extruder are on a separate page here]].<br />
<br />
It is shown fitted on the right in a view from the front of the machine. The spacer under the extruder is as shown, and the one at the back is at right angles to the one at the front. Fit three or four washers under the M4 mounting screws to make sure that the tips of the screws do not scrape on the X bars.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
<br />
[[File:ab-prusa-sanguinololu-jumper.jpg|400px|right]]<br />
<br />
I use the [[Sanguinololu| Sanguinololu electronics]] with a couple of very minor modifications: I replace R7 and R8 (1k at the moment) with 10 ohm resistors - this makes the comms more reliable. And I mount C7 in a small socket in such a way that you can unplug it. That lets you to choose whether the USB intrface is allowed to reset the microcontroller or not. Plug the capacitor in when you are programming the microcontroller from the Arduino development environment; unplug it when you are printing with the machine. I usually stick the capacitor on the processor chip with Blu-Tack when it's not in use.<br />
<br />
The [[Sanguinololu|instructions for assembling the Sanguinololu control electronics are on a separate page here]].<br />
<br />
Because the heated bed has its own driver transistor mounted on it, you don't need the one on the Sanguinololu board (Q2 on the Sanguinololu circuit diagram). Instead replace it with a link as shown on the right. This takes the microcontroller output (D14) to drive the transistor directly to the connector on the edge of the board (labeled -V on the board). From there it can be wired to "controller heated bed" on the heated bed (see the heated bed circuit diagram above).<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
[[File:electronics-fitted.jpg|400px|right]]<br />
<br />
As you can see from the right, this picture was taken before the wiring was tidied...<br />
<br />
Use three PCB mounts (see endstop-holder.scad above) to attach the board to the frame. Cut three 8mm lengths of 3mm i.d. silicone tube and put them between the printed PCB mounts and the circuit board. This will both cushion the board against distorting forces and position it better.<br />
<br />
The standard Sanguinololu uses push-fit insulation-displacement connectors to plug into the pin-headers on the board, but I have not found these very reliable. I use shells and crimp connectors [http://uk.rs-online.com/web/6701627.html like these]. But these have the disadvantage that you either need to solder them (fiddly, but not too bad), or to buy [http://www.rapidonline.com/productinfo.aspx?tier1=Tools%2c+Fasteners+%26+Production+Equipment&tier2=Hand+Tools&tier3=Tacking+%26+Crimping&tier4=Crimping+tool+for+PCB+connectors&moduleno=30535&catref=85-0262 one of these].<br />
<br />
The firmware that I use is a fork of the [https://github.com/Kliment/Sprinter Sprinter Firmware by Kliment and others] that I keep [https://github.com/AdrianBowyer/RepRapLtd-engineering/tree/master/Production-firmware/Sprinter here on Github]. This is set up to do RepRap-style accelerations by default (that is F fields and G codes are treated as linearly-changing variables), but you can switch this behaviour off and have standard G Code responses if you want.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
==Power Supply==<br />
<br />
[[File:prusa-ps-connections.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
I use [http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250818069197?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 these 12V 30A power supplies]. 30A is more than adequate for running a full RepRap with a heated bed, and so the power supply is under no strain when the machine is operating.<br />
<br />
The power supply cover and two feet are in the OpenSCAD file ps-cover.scad. The cover includes cable grips for the mains cable and the 12V cable. You will need:<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|No.<br />
|Description<br />
|Notes<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|12V 30A power supply<br />
|[http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250818069197?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 on eBay here]<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|12mm M3 screws<br />
|attach feet<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|10mm M4 screws<br />
|attach cover to PS<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|M4 washers<br />
|attach cover to PS<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|20mm M3 screws<br />
|cable grips<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|M3 nuts<br />
|cable grips<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|M3 washers<br />
|cable grips<br />
|----<br />
|1m (o.w.e.)<br />
|6.5mm O.D. 3-core mains cable<br />
|0.75mm<sup>2</sup> is about right<br />
|----<br />
|1m (o.w.e.)<br />
|20A two-core flex<br />
|<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|mains plug<br />
|<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|3-pin XLR socket<br />
|<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br><br><br><br />
<br />
[[File:prusa-ps-voltage-selection.jpg|250px]]<br />
<br />
Start by making sure that the voltage selector switch is right for your location.<br />
<br />
Next wire in the mains and 12v wires as shown in the picture at the top of this section. Get 3-core mains cable (i.e. with an earth wire) that is 6.5mm outside diameter. The 12V cable needs to be two core and capable of taking a reasonable current. I use flex rated at 20A.<br />
<br />
Note that the negative side of the 12V power supply output is connected to the earth connection. Do not omit this - it is an important safety feature.<br />
<br />
[[File:prusa-ps-feet.jpg|300px|right]]<br />
<br />
Attach the cover to the power supply with the two M4 screws and washers. Use the two 12mm M3 screws to attach the back feet as shown.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
[[File:XLR-connector.png|400px|right]]<br />
<br />
As already mentioned, the standard RepRap 12v power connector is a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector 3-pin XLR connector]. Get plugs and sockets with metal shells.<br />
<br />
The picture immediately to the right is looking into the socket (female - on the cable) and at the pins (male - on the RepRap machine). Pin 1 and the metal shells of the connectors are the ground (negative) connection. Pins 2 and 3 are the +12v connection. the reason for the doubling up is to get the maximum current capacity.<br />
<br />
[[File:prusa-ps-xlr-soldering.jpg|400px|right]]<br />
<br />
As you have high-current 12V flex, you can split half the wires on each pole. Twist them to form four connections in pairs, then solder these as described above. Use plenty of solder - you want the result to be rigid and not to bend and so short.<br />
<br />
Neatness is everything - you don't want shorts between +12v and ground.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter to check that you are getting +12V and ground out of the XLR socket in the pattern that you (and more importantly your RepRap plug - see below) expect. ''Powering the machine up with the polarity reversed will do '''a lot''' of damage.'' <br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
[[File:xlr-on-machine.jpg|400px|right]]<br />
<br />
Use the same approach for the panel-mounting XLR plug on the RepRap: use pin 1 for ground to the control electronics, and the metal shell for ground to the heated bed. Use Pin 2 (or 3 - whichever is neater) for +12v to the control electronics and Pin 3 or 2 for +12v to the heated bed. Use Pin 1 for ground to the heated bed, and the shell for ground to the control electronics.<br />
<br />
Short the two +12v together and the two grounds together with short lengths of fat wire.</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Planning_and_preparing_for_a_build&diff=85132Planning and preparing for a build2013-03-07T12:16:47Z<p>Ipinson: /* Vitamins */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Template:Mendel Documentation Header}}<br />
<br />
{page incomplete}<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
===Overview===<br />
So, you have decided that you are going to build a Mendel. Fantastic!<br />
<br />
It is recommended that before you start getting into the materials procurement process that you briefly:<br />
<br />
*Familiarize yourself with the printer & [[Mendel_assembly_data_sheet|Bill of Materials (BOM)]]. Hopefully you've watched a handful of videos or seen some pictures so you have a very basic understanding of the parts you will be working with.<br />
*Scan over the [[Mendel_Buyers_Guide|Mendel Buyers Guide]] which has tons of great information listed for community approved part suppliers.<br />
<br />
===Procurement:===<br />
To procure a Mendel, you can (a) piece a whole machine together bit by bit, (b) buy a completely functional printer "off the shelf," or (c) anything & every combination in between. It can be overwhelming deciding on what path to take. As a general rule, you will save money ($$$) by purchasing various Mendel '''kits''' of sub-assembly material. '''Note:''' The below sections on procurement are subjective and based on the collaborative opinions of the author(s). How one decides to purchase the relevant parts is up to the consumer.<br />
<br />
The three (3) major consumable groups are Vitamins, RP parts, & Electronics.<br />
<br />
====Vitamins====<br />
[[Nichrome#Vitamin.3F|Vitamins? What are those?]] The bulk of the vitamins are:<br />
*Fasteners<br />
*Rods<br />
*Boards/sheets/mounting plates/etc<br />
*Drive belts<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Advice on vitamins'''<br />
*Most world users will seek all machined/metal parts in Metric. US users will have a bit more difficult time procuring metric parts locally at decent volumes from local hardware stores. [[SAE_Mendel|SAE mendel]] does exist, although the majority of active designs in the community are Metric-centric.<br />
*Stainless steel (SST) rods are common for your framework. Most individuals have no preference on fastener material. 'Cheap' is popular as Mendel doesn't weigh much--nothing is under significant load.<br />
*You can buy complete framing and fastener [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] vitamin kits for the 'stock' version of Mendel, or break them down into sub kits. Your choice! Complete frame kits and hardware kits do make life easy.<br />
**If you have metal cutting and/or grinding tools, it may be in your interest to purchase raw rods or bar stock and cut them to size yourself. '''Straight''' smooth rods are used for the printer to traverse back and forth, up and down. Wobbly or bent rods will lead you into great despair. Tread with caution!<br />
*There are many, many small components under the Vitamins umbrella! If you procure vitamins independently, make sure to draft a complete checklist of the BOM [[Mendel_assembly_data_sheet|Bill of Materials (BOM)]]. Pay attention to quantities!<br />
<br />
====RP parts====<br />
RP parts? What are those? RP parts are "reprapped parts." There is great diversity with what RP parts you select. You can buy full kits from shops, single parts from individuals on the reprap forum, ebay, or even have your friends print them for you. Cast/molded RP parts are coming onto the scene, as of recent.<br />
<br />
If you want the latest and greatest Mendel that can be built, ask and read around before buying these--'''newer designs''' likely exist that haven't rippled back up into the formal, published Mendel design. It is recommended while scanning through the BOM to jump on the [[IRC|IRC channel]] and chat with fellow RepRappers about the latest and greatest Mendel features.<br />
<br />
*For example, many different extruder types exist, and some can be easily argued as superior to the standard Mendel design found in the latest BOM. It may be worth your effort to pursue 'better' designs from the start, vs. starting with the status quo. [Wade%27s_Geared_Extruder|Wade's Geared Extruder]] was a very popular extruder design in 2010. Greg's Hinged Extruder has been very popular in 2011. These RP objects are regularly posted on this wiki, http://www.thingiverse.com/, or in developer's github.com pages.<br />
**http://www.thingiverse.com/ is a popular site to share CAD & .stl files in all of the prototyping community (not only reprappers). Don't worry about this while planning, but know it exists!<br />
<br />
====Electronics====<br />
Electronics are technically vitamins as well (because you cannot always print them), however, they are such a significant part of your build process that they deserve their own section. Here in the planning section, we will only talk about the high level options you have for Electronics. The most important part of your decision here is deciding on what control system to implement, and how much you want to be involved in the manufacture of your control system.<br />
<br />
You need to know that:<br />
*Various input/output controller systems exist, and all of them can make a reprap print, but each does so differently<br />
*Some can be fabricated from the ground up (make your own PCBs with gen7 electronics)<br />
*Some are off the shelf solutions that essentially require you to only 'plug and play' (gen6 electronics)<br />
*Some solutions are expandable to accommodate custom and future features (RAMPS utilizes an off the shelf controller with various ports expandable to add new widgets & trinkets!)<br />
*Some are more easily serviceable!<br />
*They all take up different physical space on the printer!<br />
<br />
[["Official"_Electronics|The electronics page]] lists out all of the popularly accepted solutions. The requirements for procuring all of the relevant control systems components will be detailed in the Electronics section.<br />
<br />
===Non-Standard Popular Features===<br />
[[Heated_Bed|A heated bed]] is an incredibly popular feature which increases adhesion of the first layer of your print to the bed. At this point in time, there is not a 'standard' bed that is used across the community, nor a uniform way to mount & power it. Serious reprappers at this point in time rarely print without one. It is not required to get healthy prints, but is known to increase quality via superior adhesion. <br />
<br />
=== Required Tools ===<br />
<br />
You will need a "standard" toolbox to build a Mendel. That includes, but is not limited to:<br />
<br />
*Metric allen key / hex wrench set<br />
*Soldering iron and associated consumables (solder, sponge, wick, etc). This assumes that you will be wiring your own connections. Some 'out-of-the-box' electronics kits & motors still need some connections made. My motor wires came pre-cut, however I extended them for clean routing & strain relief.<br />
*Dikes/needle-nose pliers/small vice grips. A few different size 'grabbers' will make you a happy hobbyist<br />
*Measuring device, preferably a set of calipers [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caliper#Vernier_caliper], but a decent ruler will work<br />
*Scissors<br />
*Wire stripper<br />
<br />
It is recommended to also have:<br />
<br />
*Small files &/or a dremel<br />
*Drill & common bit sizes<br />
*Loctite (I used 'red' on my frame to keep those big M8 nuts in place)<br />
*Diagonal pliers (side cutters [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagonal_pliers])<br />
*Hacksaw (if you buy uncut smooth rods or support rods. Also may be useful if you need to modify your bolt for wades extruder--but you'll cover that later!)<br />
*Multimeter for checking connections if your electronics do not come pre-setup/configured<br />
<br />
[[Category:Mendel]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Template:RepRapPro_commissioning&diff=85131Template:RepRapPro commissioning2013-03-07T12:16:39Z<p>Ipinson: /* Step 1: Communication */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Goal=<br />
<br />
By the end of this stage, your machine will be ready for its first print.<br />
<br />
=Tools=<br />
<br />
*An object with a measured height (we use a length of 6mm diameter silver steel - the shank of a drill bit works well too).<br />
<br />
=Step 1: Communication=<br />
<br />
Before you start trying to talk to your machine, you need Python and the dependencies. <br />
<br />
Windows users please note that you install the 32-bit versions of all the Python software even if you have a 64-bit machine (that is to say, do exactly what it says on the following link). Windows and Mac [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] users go here for instructions. Read down the page and '''only do the installation of Python and its dependencies''' (i.e. '''don't''' install the version of Pronterface/Printrun/Skeinforge nor the integrated pre-compiled binaries that it also talks about):<br />
<br />
https://github.com/reprappro/Software/blob/master/README.md<br />
<br />
Installation of the needed software is easy under Ubuntu/Debian Linux:<br />
<br />
sudo apt-get install python-serial python-wxgtk2.8 python-pyglet python-tk<br />
<br />
==Windows 7==<br />
<br />
There are some problems with installing pyglet under Windows 7 ([https://code.google.com/p/pyglet/issues/detail?id=488 see here]). Thanks to Alan Matthews for the solution:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
You need to add the python executable path to your Window's PATH variable.<br />
<br />
From the desktop, right-click My Computer and click Properties.<br />
In the System Properties window, click on the Advanced tab.<br />
In the Advanced section, click the Environment Variables button.<br />
Highlight the Path variable in the Systems Variable section and click the Edit button.<br />
Add the path of your python executable(c:\Python27\). Each different directory is separated with a semicolon. (Note: do not put spaces between elements in the PATH. Your addition to the PATH should read ;c:\Python27 NOT ; C\Python27)<br />
Apply the changes. You might need to restart your system, though simply restarting cmd.exe should be sufficient.<br />
Launch cmd and try again. It should work<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
==USB Driver==<br />
<br />
If you have a Melzi controller set the PWR-SEL jumper on your controller board to USB. This is the three pin jumper about 20mm left of the processor chip. Short the bottom two pins to power from USB (note this only powers the logic, not the steppers etc). Short the top two to power the board from the main power. You want the bottom two shorted for this step. When you are running normally, it should be the top two that are shorted.<br />
<br />
===Windows===<br />
<br />
Plug the controller into a USB port on your computer. Does the computer complain that it has no driver for the USB device? If so, unplug the USB, then [http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/CDM/CDM20824_Setup.exe install this driver] or [http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm find yours in this page]. Then, when you plug the controller in, it should register as a COM port on your computer.<br />
<br />
===Linux===<br />
<br />
Linux systems should recognize the controller straight away with no need for driver installation. The controller will automatically appear as something like <tt>/dev/ttyUSB0</tt> when you plug it in. It is possible that you have to give acess rights to the USB Port e.g. for USB0: sudo chmod 666 /dev/ttyUSB0 (when there is the error message could not open port, permission denied). Or better, on Ubuntu distributions and possibly others, make sure you as a user are a member of group '''dialout'''.<br />
<br />
===Mac===<br />
<br />
Mac users should select a driver appropriate to their machine from: [http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm].<br />
<br />
As of December 2012, the current driver is named <code>FTDIUSBSerialDriver_10_4_10_5_10_6_10_7</code>. Although the name seems to indicate the matching versions of Mac OS X, it works fine in 10.8.2 as well. If your Mac runs Mountain Lion, go for this driver.<br />
<br />
With the driver installed and the USB cable plugged in, the following message appears on the console:<br />
<br />
<code><br />
kernel[0]: FTDIUSBSerialDriver: 0 4036001 start - ok<br />
</code><br />
<br />
Connect to your printer through the device named <code>/dev/cu.usbserial-XXXXXXXX</code>. If you have more than one usbserial attached to your Mac, you'll need to remember which new device gets created when the cable is plugged in and remember its <code>XXXXXXXX</code> suffix. If there are no other usbserial devices, then when you run '''pronterface.py''', you will see only one device in the Port list with a name starting with <code>cu.usbserial</code> -- connect to that one.<br />
<br />
==Start talking==<br />
<br />
The first thing to establish is that you can communicate with your machine. You will need to install and run the RepRappro Pronterface software, which you will find in our [https://github.com/reprappro/Software github repo here]. The button to download a ZIP file is near the upper left (the little picture of a cloud with a down-arrow labelled ZIP).<br />
<br />
If you have a Melzi controller, set its power selector jumper to use USB power (see "Melzi Adjustment" below). Leave the main power supply unplugged for the moment.<br />
<br />
Connect your RepRap to a USB port on your computer, then run pronterface.py.<br />
<br />
The very first time you run Pronterface, select the correct print profile by navigating to Settings->Slicing Settings. This will open a new window. Near the top is a button labelled Profile Selection. Select the relevant profile for the material with which you plan to print. For the PLA supplied with RepRap this is '''Huxley-PLA-05-03''' or '''Mendel-PLA-05-03''' depending on your RepRapPro machine (05 is the nozzle diameter - 0.5mm; 03 is the layer height - 0.3mm). Select "Save all" then close the window and return to the printer interface software.<br />
<br />
For multi-colour/multi-material printing make sure that the "Monitor Printer" checkbox is '''unchecked'''.<br />
<br />
Now select the active serial port in the upper left, choose 115200 for the baud rate (or 250000 for older firmware). Click Connect, wait a moment, and the software will confirm when the printer is online. (Whenever the controller firmware is rebooted, it will take about ten seconds to respond.)<br />
<br />
[[File:pronterface_main.png|400px]]<br />
<br />
Press the GET POS button, and if the machine returns a position of X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 your serial communication is functioning correctly.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT.''' Next press "Get Temp" and check that both the hot end and the heated bed are reporting a temperature that is around room temperature (it may be a couple of degrees out - the thermistors are designed for accuracy at their operating temperature). If a temperature is too high then there is probably a short circuit in the corresponding thermistor circuit. If it is too low, then there may be an open circuit. Alternatively, your fimrware may have an incorrect setting, see next section. In either case, find the fault and fix it before you go on.<br />
<br />
NOTE: If your pronterface window does not display the custom buttons (GET TEMP, GET POS, ... ), you most likely have another copy of .pronsolerc or .skeinforge in your home folder. Delete these files and reload the software. You should now see the extra buttons.<br />
<br />
==Confirm settings==<br />
The Melzi controller runs RepRapPro's version of Marlin firmware. This allows many machine specific settings to be adjusted from Pronterface, without having to upload new firmware.<br />
To check current settings, send an M503 command to the machine. The log window should show something like this:<br />
<br />
>>>m503<br />
<br />
SENDING:M503<br />
<br />
echo:Steps per unit:<br />
<br />
echo: M92 X91.429 Y91.429 Z4000.000 E945.000<br />
<br />
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):<br />
<br />
echo: M203 X500.000 Y500.000 Z3.400 E45.000<br />
<br />
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):<br />
<br />
echo: M201 X2500 Y2500 Z50 E2500<br />
<br />
echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration<br />
<br />
echo: M204 S2000.000 T2000.000<br />
<br />
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum xY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), K=advance_k<br />
<br />
echo: M205 S0.000 T0.000 B20000 X15.000 Z0.400 E25.000<br />
<br />
echo: M206 X0.000 Y0.000 Z-0.250<br />
<br />
echo: M208 X150.000 Y150.000 Z97.000<br />
<br />
echo:PID settings:<br />
<br />
echo: M301 P10.000 I2.200 D80.000 W70<br />
<br />
echo:Thermistor settings: M304 Hh Bb Rr Tt, H0=Bed, H1..n=nozzle, b=thermistor beta value, r=series resistor, t=thermistor resistance as 25C<br />
<br />
echo: M304 H0 B4200 R4800 T100000 M304 H1 B3960 R4700 T100000<br />
<br />
FPU Enabled no<br />
<br />
Each setting is displayed, along with a description. To change a settings, send the relevant command and parameter.<br />
For example, thermistor readings are interpreted on-the-fly, rather than with a lookup table, so the firmware needs to know the thermistor's beta value (from the datasheet), the value of the series resistor (which can be seen near the relvevant thermistor connector on the Melzi), and the thermistor's resistance at 25C. So, to set the nozzle thermistor parameters for a beta value of 3960, a series resistor of 4k7 Ohms, and a 100k Ohms resistance at 25C, send the following command:<br />
<br />
M304 H1 B3960 R4700 T100000<br />
<br />
Any settings updated from pronterface will take immediate effect, however they will not be saved to EEPROM (non-volatile memory) until you send an M500 command. Following this, the settings will persist following a power off.<br />
<br />
=Step 2: Axes=<br />
<br />
==Motor movement==<br />
<br />
DO NOT CONTINUE WITHOUT CHECKING CURRENT LIMITS!<br />
<br />
If limits are not set, the driver boards will most likely be destroyed.<br />
<br />
====Melzi adjustment====<br />
<br />
If you have Melzi controller electronics you should already have set its motor currents as described [[RepRapPro_Mendel_wiring#Setting_the_Motor_Currents|here for Mendel]] and [[RepRapPro_Huxley_wiring#Setting_the_Motor_Currents|here for Huxley]].<br />
<br />
Now that is done, move the central power selector jumper to short the two pins nearest the screw connectors. This will power the logic from the main power supply, not from the USB. Also make sure the reset jumper (at the end of the board by the temperature sensor inputs) is not in place; just hang it on one pin for safe keeping.<br />
<br />
====Sanguinololu adjustment====<br />
<br />
The adjustment of the Pololu stepper drivers that go on the Sanguinololu board is described [http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1182 here on the Pololu site]. See the section called ''Current Limiting''. But ignore the bit on that page about the reference voltage being measured at a via - the easiest place to measure it is on the rotating metal part of the trimpot itself.<br />
<br />
Adjust the trimpots to 0.4v by slowing turning clockwise while checking the voltage reading with a multimeter.<br />
<br />
====Then for both Melzi and Sanguinololu====<br />
<br />
Plug in your power supply. Watch for smoke in case something has gone horribly wrong! Also, make sure that the motors and - more importantly - the four motor driver chips - aren't getting hot. With the current limit correctly set, they should be slightly warm to the touch. Take care with the chips - they have internal temperature shutdowns that kick in around 80<sup>o</sup>C, a temperature that will burn your finger unless you just touch lightly and briefly.<br />
<br />
Plug in the USB and run the Pronterface program. Click "Connect" and wait for your RepRap to appear online. <br />
<br />
Now type:<br />
<br />
G1 X5 F500<br />
<br />
in the field below the log window and click Send. The X-motor should move to 5mm in the positive direction (X5) at 500mm/min (F500).<br />
<br />
Now type:<br />
<br />
G1 X0 F500<br />
<br />
and send. The X-motor should move back to its starting location (X0). If you find that your machine will not move in the negative direction, your endstops are probably not wired correctly. Refer to the [[RepRapPro Huxley wiring|Huxley wiring page]] or the [[RepRapPro Mendel wiring|Mendel wiring page]] to check your wiring.<br />
<br />
Repeat the above test for the other three axes. For each axis test, replace the X in the above command with the relevant axis letter (Y,Z,E), but for Z make the feedrate 200 mm/minute:<br />
<br />
G1 Z5 F200<br />
<br />
and for E type: <br />
<br />
M302 <br />
<br />
before sending:<br />
<br />
G1 E5 F500 <br />
<br />
'''Warning:''' do not do this whilst you have filament in the extruder. The M302 command allows cold extrusion, enabling the extruder motor to move irrespective of the hot end temperature.<br />
<br />
You may find that some axes judder, or whine but don't move. This means that their current is set a little too low.<br />
<br />
'''Turn off the power''', then rotate the appropriate potentiometer '''just a little''' to increase the current. Put the power back on and repeat the tests above.<br />
<br />
==Motors going backwards==<br />
<br />
RepRap works with right-handed Cartesian coordinates relative to the bed not the frame. That is to say that looking down on the bed from the front of the machine X runs from left to right, and Y runs from front to back (like a graph). Z runs up towards the top of the machine.<br />
<br />
Remember that it is the movement of the printing head that counts: when Y increases, the bed will move towards you.<br />
<br />
If you find that an axis is backwards, it is simple to reverse its motor: just power down and then reverse the order of its wires into the controller, so, for example, [black, green, blue, red] goes to [red, blue, green, black]. '''Don't forget to turn the power off before disconnecting and connecting wires.'''<br />
<br />
==Endstops==<br />
<br />
The endstops are only checked during homing. To test them, send a homing command for the X, Y and Z axes in turn, for example<br />
<br />
G28 X0<br />
<br />
As soon as you press Send and the axis begins to move, activate the relevant limit switch to halt movement of the axis. If activating the switch does not halt your axis, check your wiring ([[RepRapPro Huxley wiring|Huxley here]] or [[RepRapPro Mendel wiring|Mendel here]]).<br />
<br />
==Homing==<br />
<br />
You are almost ready to home your machine. Before doing so, ensure the Z endstop is high enough on the Z smooth rod to trigger the switch without the head ploughing into your heatbed.<br />
<br />
Press the HOME ALL button and your machine will find its reference position at X0 Y0 Z0.<br />
<br />
(If the machine stops before reaching an endstop it may be because the endstop is being [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?214,133203 falsely triggered] by interference from the stepper motor wires.)<br />
<br />
=Step 3: Alignment=<br />
<br />
==Level the X axis==<br />
<br />
Use digital callipers to measure the height of the X rods above the Y rods (move the carriages out of the way if needs be). Turn the Z motors until the X axis is level.<br />
<br />
==Level the bed==<br />
<br />
If you have a Mendel, level the bed with the glass clipped in place with the four foldback clips.<br />
<br />
If you have a Huxley, level the aluminium plate.<br />
<br />
One of the major differences between the standard pronterface and the eMAKER version is the way the machine is manually controlled. You have five buttons which enable you to position the head above the four corners of the bed and over the centre. The Z axis can be moved in increments of 0.1mm, 1mm and 10mm. The E axis can be moved by the amount specified in the distance spin control. The speed of manual moves can be specified in the spin controls above the manual move buttons.<br />
<br />
To level the bed, move the head up such that you have at least the height of your measured object between the head and the bed. Then position the head in the centre and bring it down gradually until it is almost touching the object. Moving the head to each corner, adjust the three M3x30mm cap head screws by which the heatbed is mounted in order to level the bed.<br />
<br />
Start leveling with the nuts either side of the Y-axis bearing mounts a little lose, and gradually tighten them as you near your goal. You will find that you can still adjust things with the nuts slightly tight. <br />
<br />
When you have finished the nuts on the M3 screws need to be completely tight against the bearing mounts so the bed won't move in operation.<br />
<br />
An alternative leveling process can be found here: http://www.britishideas.com/2013/03/03/leveling-a-reprap-bed-with-three-screws<br />
<br />
====Mendel Levelling Cheat====<br />
<br />
Unavoidably sometimes the Mendel glass is not quite flat; it is saddle-shaped with two diagonal corners one or two tenths of a millimeter low, and the two other diagonal corners high. Of course, it is geometrically/algebraically impossible to correct for this by adjusting three screws to define a first-degree (''i.e.'' a linear) plane - a saddle is a second- (or higher-) degree surface.<br />
<br />
But it is easy to fold a little aluminium foil to act as a shim under the glass in one corner to make the glass planar. Then you can use the three screws to get things spot on.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-bed-level-shim.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
If you find yourself tempted to use the foil trick in more than one corner - don't. Just use it in one corner then take the time to use the screws as above to correct for every other out-of-level error.<br />
<br />
==Set your Z height==<br />
<br />
With the head at Z0, the tip of the nozzle should be within a paper thickness away from the surface of the bed. To achieve this, follow the sequence:<br />
<br />
*HOME ALL<br />
<br />
*Send the following command: G1 Zz F200, where z=the height of your measured object.<br />
<br />
*CENTRE<br />
<br />
*Check that the head is within 0.3mm of your object.<br />
<br />
*For Huxley, adjust the height of the Z axis endstop, or for Mendel rotate the adjustment screw, and repeat until your height is set.<br />
<br />
=Step 4: Heaters=<br />
<br />
Tick the monitor check box to report the temperatures of your heatbed and nozzle. Ensure that the readings are similar to the ambient temperature of the room.<br />
<br />
==Heatbed==<br />
<br />
Command the heatbed to 45C (warm), tick the monitor checkbox and verify that the heatbed temperature reading rises and stabilises around 45C, and that the heatbed is actually warm. <br />
<br />
==Hot end==<br />
<br />
N.B. Some RepRapPro Huxley kits shipped with a Melzi controller between August 2012 and the first week of October 2012 have an error in the firmware. Please see this forum topic for a solution http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?214,123839,159857#msg-159857<br />
<br />
Command the nozzle to 100C and watch the temperature rise, overshoot and eventually settle around 100C. Keep an eye on the nozzle during this test. If you see lots of smoke come out of the hot end, turn off the heater.<br />
Repeat the test with a target temperature of 200C. The nozzle should reach the target temperature in about 1 minute or less and settle within a couple of degrees of 200C.<br />
<br />
The nozzle heater resistor has a lot more power than is necessary, so the the control parameters are set to limit the available power. For the nozzle to reach a target temperature quickly, with minimal overshoot and fast settling time, the integral windup must be tuned for the target temperature. By default, this is set to 80 by the firmware, but the start_PLA.gcode and start_ABS.gcode files should set the appropriate value for that material. This is achieved by the following line:<br />
<br />
M301 Ww, where w = 0-255. A higher value means more power available to the nozzle heater.<br />
<br />
So, if your nozzle does not reach the target temperature, gradually increase W until the desired performance is reached. W=120 is not uncommon for PLA, and W=180 for ABS.<br />
<br />
Once you have tuned this value to your print material, enter it into the relevant start.gcode file. These files are in the directory:<br />
<br />
'''skeinforge/skeinforge_application/alterations/'''<br />
<br />
beneath wherever you have installed '''pronterface'''.<br />
<br />
=Step 5: Extruder=<br />
<br />
Once you have verified the nozzle behaves as expected, you can carry out a test extrusion by hand. Remove the brass bowden start piece from the extruder block and feed some PLA into the tube until it reaches the nozzle (beware of the filament snagging on the short piece of PTFE tube inside the barrel). Command the nozzle to 205C, and once it has reached and settled there, push the filament through and watch it extrude. The extrusion should be maintained with a steady but not excessive force.<br />
<br />
Pull out the filament and reassemble the bowden tube for a test of the extruder drive mechanism. This time, click on MOTORS OFF or send an M84 command, and rotate the gears whilst manually feeding some PLA filament in through the extruder drive mechanism. Repeat the extrusion test, this time by manually rotating the large gear slowly.<br />
<br />
Finally, try extruding material by commanding the E axis. 200mm/min is a good speed for an 0.5mm nozzle; 80 mm/min is good for an 0.3mm nozzle.</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=David_Project&diff=85130David Project2013-03-07T12:16:29Z<p>Ipinson: /* Context */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Status=<br />
Pre napkin-sketch, pre-proposal.<br />
<br />
=Working Notes=<br />
<br />
These are working notes and partial nonsense. Please read, think, and edit, this is a wiki.<br />
<br />
=Idea: Scan in every art museum and archaelogical artifact. Everywhere, starting with the most accessibile, interesting, and mediagentic artifacts. E.g. The statue of David.=<br />
<br />
Should be straightforward, and then we have a nonprofit commons keep the files in trust (and GPL), on a website, for the [[Library/6x10000s Problem | next 1000 years or so]]. And have a dynamic community of users, like youtube.<br />
<br />
I'd rather not trust Microsoft or Yahoo to be the gatekeepers to our 3D culture.<br />
<br />
=Non-GPL example=<br />
Scan of David with non-free data. Boingboing was all over this.<br />
<br />
=Raw Notes=<br />
Plaster casts are also a fundamental part of teaching artists in the traditional atelier model.<br />
<br />
First you copy lithographs, say from the<br />
Charles Bargue book/drawing course (not cheap, but cheaper than an art class)<br />
<br />
Then you copy from plaster casts, e.g.:<br />
http://www.ebisart.com/pg27.html<br />
http://www.conceptart.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3267<br />
http://gurneyjourney.blogspot.com/2008/09/plaster-casts.html<br />
<br />
Then you draw from the model:<br />
(omitted)<br />
<br />
Then you paint/sculpt:<br />
(omitted, although lucchesi and lanteri are good on sculpture)<br />
<br />
(Although it is fun to mix up the steps. But the teacher knows if she or he teaches this way, the student learns to where to put the lines before dealing with the plaster cast or model.)<br />
<br />
This is a fun place to start:<br />
http://www.conceptart.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=f1fc40207933d4d8eda1fc6ad6d631bf&f=7<br />
<br />
unless you have an atelier nearby:<br />
http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/atelier_list.asp<br />
Atelier are much cheaper than university art departments, but the students that come out make better art, I think.<br />
<br />
=Action Items=<br />
Build up background, <br />
<br />
=Context=<br />
<br />
The casts were destroyed by barbarians. (Technically, hippies led by modernists. The modernists wanted to impose their own stamp on the course curriculum and created a moral crisis [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] in order to do so. The hippies were angry about an un unjust war and thought 'the Man' was oppressing them by forcing them to draw.<br />
<br />
Possibly unrelated from my [http://www.metafilter.com/86145/Bucket-list-made-easy original source text]:<br />
(Maybe 10 years from now all the art schools that want will have as many casts as they can 3D print. I think I know what I'm doing on my next trips to art museums.)<br />
See also [[David_Project]]<br />
<br />
=Methodology=<br />
<br />
=Identify Problem=<br />
=Describe available non-RepRap, non-GPL solutions which are not on the wiki, explain why they are unsuitable.=<br />
=Analyze domain, identify community resources if they exist and experts.=<br />
=Make Simple Model Using RepRap=<br />
*This is a key step. If you walk into a prosthetic designer's workshop or a roboticist designer's workshop, you better have a physical simple non-working example, printed out with a RepRap. This will engage the designer's somatic sense, their professional instincts will kick in, and he or she will tell you why this won't work. <br />
*Lay out large sheets of paper. <br />
*Ask them to make a drawing explaining their criticism.<br />
*Scan sheets of paper. <br />
*Make new model.<br />
*Repeat. Go back to<br />
*This is a little sneaky, but will work. We will call it the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Columbo_(TV_series) Columbo] method of getting started on a project.<br />
=Try to identify domain expert with proven ability to get things dones, solicit advice.=<br />
=Optional: Create Working Group of advisors. =<br />
(Difficulty: No [[Talking-Shops]])<br />
=Describe Solution=<br />
=Identify Domain Expert with proven ability to get things done: "Bob'=<br />
=Secure Funding to donate RepRap: RepRap Research Foundation funds, PayPal, DARPA or Non-Profits etc.=<br />
=Bob uses RepRap to design solution, demonstrates, puts on RepRap wiki under GPL.=<br />
=Use RepRaps to make solution, deploy 1000 examples.=<br />
=Agitprop=<br />
After deploying working examples, alert media, preferably using [http://reprap.blogspot.com RepRap Blog]] and [http://boingboing.net BoingBoing] (Cory et.al. are nice people, and people read their blog. Plus, since it's a blog, they need content, so it's all good.)<br />
<br />
<br />
{{tag|scanning}}</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Essay_on_putting_printers_in_perspective&diff=85129Essay on putting printers in perspective2013-03-07T12:16:20Z<p>Ipinson: /* the future of printers */</p>
<hr />
<div>== the future of printers ==<br />
This is from [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,92359,92425 a post in the forum], moved to the wiki to make it easier to find.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some ideas and thinking about truly practical printers (especially putting printers into the big picture).<br />
<br />
<br />
The reprap project, how it might fit into the larger world, and the future of printers.<br />
<br />
You often hear and read people saying a printer or say a fab lab can make "almost anything" and "at the cost of materials".<br />
<br />
And there are some real issues with those [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] statements: when you start asking yourself what, of the things around you you can<br />
make, it quickly becomes obvious that that's a bit of an exaggeration. And the materials themselves are the product of human labor, just like products so why do they get special status?<br />
<br />
I think this all gets much more interesting when you try to put it all in perspective:<br />
<br />
== precision machine shops ==<br />
<br />
Bob talks about precision machine shops as a sort of self reproducing printer. If we expand the definition of printer to any piece or collection of equipment - such as a fab lab with the associated operators - that can produce usable real world physical goods then things get a lot more interesting pretty fast.<br />
<br />
== Complete Existing Printer ==<br />
<br />
Humanity already has a self reproducing printer that can make literally anything in civilization, which consists of all manufacturing equipment on the planet plus all the human operators. Let's call it the Complete Existing Printer for now. Economics is pretty complicated, but it might be fair to say that this is the only manifestation that we already fully know how to do which can make everything in civilization *at the current prices we see on the market*. Although there is no doubt that a better printer is possible, which can make a wider variety of stuff more cheaply. Particularly because we have things like planned obsolescence and other features of the equipment, organization and end products which are inserted by counterproductive people on purpose and would be easy to do away with, providing large gains.<br />
<br />
The variety and sophistication of the end products that the CEP can produce includes all materials, everything form Boeing 727s to spoons and semiconductor components, food etc. In a recent ted talk Tim Harford points out there are supposedly 10 billion distinct, different products available on the market for sale in New York City, for instance, so presumably there are many more elsewhere.<br />
<br />
But what is the size of the printer? And how large and expensive is the share of it which is used by a single person in the developed world? I mean it can only be so expensive when you get right down to it because the total of society's infrastructure is owned by people (shares in corporations often), and the average person is not that wealthy, and the material goods production infractructure is a small fraction of that.<br />
<br />
== Small Almost Complete Reproducing Printer ==<br />
<br />
Then, if you look at the smallest (in terms of capital cost) fraction of the system which - in isolation from the rest of the world - could produce say the 95 percentile or say top 5000 most economically important products at a price that is no greater than 20% of the market price for instance, and is still able to make itself, I bet that would be far smaller in terms of the amount of equipment needed because you do away with the million different types of merlot and so on, let's call it the Smallest Practical Almost Complete Reproducing Printer (SPACRP). Let's suppose we stick only with the type of technology, and costs measured as the current market price of the stuff, that is already being used. (Just a side note though that it would probably be really hard to predict what monetary prices of the produced equipment would be, so maybe it would be better to measure cost in terms of personel-hours and equipment time or something)<br />
<br />
First of all there were many redundant components in the Complete Existing Printer. There are a great number of precision machine shops in the world, but the SPACP only needs one. Secondly, there are many production methods like injection molding that only exist to reduce the cost - for example pretty much anything you can make by injection molding you can machine directly, so some of those production methods would not be needed.<br />
<br />
Thirdly, removing the 5 percentile least important products would probably greatly reduce the variety of stuff it needs to make, simplifying it. Would be extremely interesting to know what this printer would consist of.<br />
<br />
== ecology of equipment ==<br />
<br />
The components of either the CEP or the SPACP could be arranged herarchically in terms of what you would use to make and maintain what - a CNC mill might be used to make a telescope but not vice versa. In many cases though the relationships end up coming full circle, you can make something with a mill which is part of the equipment you would normally use to make or maintain some part of the mill. Like a machine to make ball bearings, or a screwdriver to help assemble and maintain the mill.<br />
<br />
Now imagine you take this further with a chart that showed all the relationships and dependencies between the different peices of production equipment - the ecology of equipment basically - remember it includes "land" as a sort of peice of equipment needed to produce food, chemical engineering plants needed to produce the raw materials like steel or plastic, etc. So it's not a tree, it's a very complicated chart although you might arrange the elements on the chart so the peices with the most stuff depending on them are at the bottom, like prey at the bottom of the food chain. And because it would end up including all the important stuff like housing and food and computers this SPACP could probably be the material basis of a pretty good economy.<br />
<br />
Once you knew what it was there are probably a ton of places to step in and optimize it for what you want, especially if you are permitted to increase the net cost of producing some products by eliminating more of the cost-reducing-only production methods, or by tinkering with the design of the produced products and production equipment (which are themselves also products because it can make itself) to make them easier to produce with a smaller set of equipment and relatively few people and/or people who have less training.<br />
<br />
In many cases you have a chemical plant or whatever and you might want to break it down into pumps, tubes, etc. (but with a border around those parts still) and represent it on the chart like that, which would make it more visible what parts of, say a ball bearing production machine, requires a lathe to produce. It might make the chart have less distinct elements in it, too, if you did that for all equipment, so you can see the number of particular types of parts involved which might be nice. It might be interesting to break it down into the individual moving parts of all the equipment, or in terms of the regions of the equipment that consist of homogeneous materials - so a painted peice of steel would be broken down into the paint layer and the steel - or various other things.<br />
<br />
It might be kind of cool to visualize it as if it were displayed on google earth as an actual implementation of it, with the aluminum mine in one place, the steel mill in another, the machine shop somewhere else. Then click go, and it starts producing things, transporting aluminum to the mill to be converted from billet into sheet, then to the machine shop and so on. Each time material is moved you could draw a trace between the origin and destination, which had a few numbers displayed next to it that describe the person hours, whatever, that have been put into the transport process and the object being moved, or the value added after the last step or something. Maybe a number floating next to the destinations could indicate their cost similarly.<br />
<br />
== nucleus of an almost complete reproducing printer ==<br />
<br />
Also in many cases the production equipment will be jigs or assembly lines needed to assemble an airplane or whatever which are specific to particular products but do not produce other production equipment. You could try excluding those so you end up with a sort of nucleus which is not itself capable of being an economy, but which could produce one given enough time and resources and good plans to follow (which is where open source would really help).<br />
<br />
Also, when I say end products, almost all parts of the printer are also probably end products that the printer can make even if you did not deliberately include the "can reproduce self" criteria, as they will tend to be highly economically important, and almost all end products are also production equipment in way - the operators could wear the clothing they produce for instance. There may be some end products that are luxuries like wine or something that are only used very slightly if at all in the production process I guess.<br />
<br />
== other possible ways of shrinking or simplifying or improving the CEP ==<br />
''(a generalization of [[FutureToolIdeas]])''<br />
<br />
You could further whittle down like this the amount of equipment and training needed to make a new model of printer you could call the Optimized Bang For Capital Expenditure Buck Printer. You could also try to reduce or eliminate dependency on remote mines or people that may not be there in the future, or whatever you want to.<br />
<br />
Or even further whittle it down until you get the Printer That Costs Less Than $70k And Also Gives The Best Bang For Those Dollars Printer. The best bang in your view anyway. Or you could try to make the printer that had the least elements in the chart that could produce all the same products in isolation from the rest of the world, while allowing for price increases. There are lots of interesting things you could do with it.<br />
<br />
At this point we could put fab labs, and the reprap and other new types of equipment or methods, in perspective easily. We can look at the SPACP or the PTCLT7AAGTBBFTDP or whatever your desired printer is, and see what peices of equipment the new kid on the block can replace most or all of the functionality of, and what, if you subbed in the new equipment for the old, the effect on the cost(s) of the products produced will be.<br />
<br />
Often, when you are talking about say a RepRap, you want to know what vitamins it requires, and what sort of objects it can produce, what sort of effect it might have on the world. This approach of looking at a giant chart - an ecology of production equipment represented on paper - makes it easier to see the answer to those questions and put the capabilities of the RepRap model in perspective with the rest of the world, and the current production methods and equipment our economies already tend to use.<br />
<br />
And also what it can make that the SPACP cannot, but let's face it, what humanity really needs is not so much different stuff or new types of stuff, but the capacity to make the stuff we can already make much cheaper, and secondly to actually use that capacity effectively for the right things, rather than what happens when it is in the hands of the bankster type people.<br />
<br />
Then you could consider the importance of different types of theoretical new types of printer based on how they could change your main printer, like the CEP. The capabilities could be thought of in terms different resolutions and with different accuracy (and it's really accuracy that we ultimately want, not precision) and materials, and printing speed. There is the printer that can print in only one material to 2 micron accuracy or so with several micron voxels, like a direct metal laser sintering machine, and we already have those but they cost too much right now. There is the printer that can print something with a small range of materials in any desired voxel. There is the printer which can put whatever material you would like in any voxel (volume pixel). Then there is the molecular assembler, which is like a super high resolution of the latter because it can make something with atoms placed wherever you want. And you could go even further to subatomic particles I guess.<br />
<br />
There would be many variations in between and probably a lot of practical printers, certainly the early ones, will be somewhere in between. Suppose a 2 micron voxel 1 micron accurate 3 material printer could also control some of the metallurgical properties of the metal it was depositing for example, like temper some areas of a high carbon steel part. That is having limited control at an atomic level but with similar or likely lower resolution. Or it could control the properties which the boundary between different material voxels had - a strong bond or a very weak bond, which essentially the ability to exert limited control at a low level.<br />
<br />
In practice, at first, there will likely be many different limits on the printing capabilities besides voxel size and material types - you may not be able to get as high a precision for where exactly the boundary between 2 different materials on the workpiece is as the precision for where the boundary between a single material and the air (or surrounding vacuum or powder bed) is. It may be possible to define the boundaries of your object to within say 3 microns, but the radius of curvature may be more limited - due to the inertia of the galvanometer mirrors for example. Or the rate at which the intensity of the laser can be modulated may produce limitations of it's own for another example.<br />
<br />
Or maybe you could control the orientation of the molecules within the voxels, so you could produce a material like Dyneema from Ultra high molecular weight polyethylene, Dyneema is a material in which the UHMWPE molecules are mostly aligned lengthwise along a particular axis, making if far stronger along that axis. Or the orientation of fibers in a composite material maybe, but most composite materials have fibers bigger than 1 micron, so you could also print a composite material like glass filled nylon directly. Except printing say a glass directly adjacent to a plastic (after the plastic) might be problematic for the heat-sintering sort of approach because the melt pool temperature of the glass is too high for the plastic to stand without burning.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Community]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Open_Air&diff=85128Open Air2013-03-07T12:16:17Z<p>Ipinson: /* Working Notes. */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Open Air<br />
|description = a Gada Prize competing RepRap design based on a fixed bed, gantry style motion system, multiple extruder/milling heads<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Rocket scientist<br />
|reprap = sui generis<br />
|categories = <br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br/><br />
{{notice2|Creating a new development page|<br />
Create your new page by logging in, editing the URL of any wiki page, and then clicking "edit". By clicking edit on this page you can see how the examples presented here are written and use them in your new page as needed, and deleting unnecessary parts.}}<br />
<br />
This page represents an example [[:Category:Development|development page]] and showcases many features that can be used in creating new development pages.<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
=Working Notes. =<br />
The Open Air design starts with the principal of making a reprap that can build parts significantly bigger than the machine itself. To do this, I am designing a machine that will allow extending an existing piece by building more onto it. Adding new layers to an existing, already finished piece has many implications. The exiting piece must be supported during the add on construction, but it must be mostly outside the main machine to leave the most room possible for the extension. To do this, arms with adjustable clamps will be added that swing horizontally [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] from the sides and extend out to grip securely the existing part. It also means that the bed must be stationary, otherwise the old part extending out would be flopping around with every X and Y movement. It also means that at least one side must be open to allow parts to stick out. I have chosen to have two sides of a cube, plus the corner or edge between them removed, thus the team name "OpenAir".<br />
==Stationary bed.==<br />
To be able to extend parts outside the framework, the bed must be stationary. This implies that all three axes have to be built into the extruder. The stationary bed will also help modifying the bed to be heated. With the bed not moving, there will be less induced airflow over the exposed heated parts, thus draining less electrical power to keep them heated. It also means that delicate objects being made are not shaken back and forth during layering, so that thinner sections and more unsupported overhangs can be used. Another benefit is that if welding, casting, or other hot metal work requires a controlled atmosphere, since the bed does not slide out it is easier to enclose the whole structure to fill with CO2, Nitrogen, or Argon.<br />
==Gantry Style Extruder Movement==<br />
To use the maximum possible working area inside framework, the Open Air will use a gantry style movement system. With the extruder head moving in both X and Y it will be able to reach every corner of the stationary bed. This allows for making the biggest possible within an operating volume. Any system the moves the bed instead of the extruder in X and Y has to have a large footprint on the desktop than the size of the bed. With a gantry style X, Y, and Z axes motion system, the biggest pieces can be only the thickness of frame and gantry less than the size of the total machine footprint. To accommodate the open sides and missing corner, I will use a full, square platform for the Z axis and run it up and down with three threaded rods linked together, possibly with a chain drive. X will then move a beam from one side to the other inside the platform, and Y will move the extruder across the beam.<br />
===Z axis===<br />
To make the 3D motion platform strong enough to handle light milling even with two sides and one corner pillar missing, I plan to use a truss-box beam square. This should make the corner floating in air very strong and stable, and allow milling to take place<br />
<br />
=Forum thread?=<br />
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?171,37720</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=WikiNode&diff=85126WikiNode2013-03-07T12:15:42Z<p>Ipinson: /* WikiNodes */</p>
<hr />
<div>Welcome to '''Reprap.org''', a wiki for the RepRap community.<br />
<br />
== Points of Interest ==<br />
While you're here, be sure to check out:<br />
* [[Main Page]]<br />
* [[Special:Recentchanges|Recentchanges]]<br />
* [[RepRapWiki:Community portal]]<br />
* [[Mendel]]<br />
* [[Gada Prize]]<br />
* [[RepRapWiki:About]]<br />
* [[:Category:Development]]<br />
* [[Scaling]]<br />
* [[RepRapWiki:Help]]<br />
* [[RepRapWiki:Translations]]: [[RepRap/zh|汉语- RepRap in Chinese]]; [[RepRap/fr|RepRap en français - RepRap in French]]; [[RepRap/de|RepRap auf Deutsch - RepRap in German]]; [[RepRap/es|RepRap en español - RepRap in Spanish]]; [[RepRap/it|RepRap in italiano - RepRap in Italian]]; [[RepRap/ru|RepRap по-русски - RepRap in Russian]]; [[RepRap/pt|RepRap en Portuguesa|RepRap en Portuguesa - RepRap in Portuguese]]; etc.<br />
* ''please edit this section with this wiki's special places''<br />
<br />
== WikiNodes of our neighbors ==<br />
<br />
* [http://wiki.candyfab.org/ The CandyFab Wiki]<br />
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/ Makerbot wiki] using compatible electronics in small "Cupcake" 3d-printers sold as [http://store.makerbot.com/ kits]<br />
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/start Makerbot wiki forum]<br />
* [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki Bits From Bytes wiki] -- supported by the people who sell the [[RapMan]]<br />
* [http://makeyourbot.org/ "Make Your Bot!" wiki] -- all of the design files and documentation for the under $100 Mantis 3-axis CNC milling machine. See also [[Mantis 9.1]] and [[Mantis Electron]].<br />
* [http://edutechwiki.unige.ch/ EduTech Wiki] occasionally discusses RepRap and the things you can make from it. Hosted at TECFA, an educational technology research and teaching unit at University of Geneva. <br />
* [http://pminmo.com/PMinMOwiki/index.php5 PMinMOwiki] discusses low-cost CNC -- perhaps some of them could be easily converted to a [[RepStraps]]<br />
* [http://fabathome.org/wiki/ Fab@Home wiki]: the other open-source, low-cost, personal solid freeform fabrication (SFF) system<br />
* [http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/ Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) Project documentation wiki] -- subtractive CNC milling. nice G code simulator. super-useful if you build a [[EMCRepStrap]] or want an open-source [[CNC Mill]].<br />
* [http://sourceforge.net/apps/mediawiki/pcb2gcode pcb2gcode wiki]: open-source software useful for [[Automated Circuitry Making]], especially [[PCB Milling]]. [http://sourceforge.net/apps/mediawiki/pcb2gcode/index.php?title=File:Milling.jpg]<br />
* [http://openlathe.wikidot.com/ the Open Lathe Project wiki]<br />
* [http://wiki.inkscape.org/wiki/index.php/WikiNode Inkscape wiki]: Inkscape is a free, open source, 2D vector drawing application. Is there anything better for making and viewing standard vector graphics (SVG) files for lasercut parts, such as the [[LaserCut Mendel]]?<br />
* [http://code.google.com/p/heekscad/ HeeksCAD wiki]: HeeksCAD is a free, open source, 3D CAD application written by Dan Heeks. Neil Underwood seems to like using it with RepRap.<br />
* [http://wiki.blender.org/ Blender's Wiki]<br />
* [http://brlcad.org/wiki/ BRL-CAD Wiki]: a cross-platform Open Source combinatorial constructive solid geometry (CSG) solid modeling system<br />
* [http://plastics.inwiki.org/ Plastics Wiki]: lots of general theory on many kinds of plastic materials and ways to shape them.<br />
* [http://kicad.sourceforge.net/wiki/index.php/WikiNode KiCAD wiki] -- apparently KiCAD was used to design some RepRap electronics PCBs<br />
* [http://www.geda-project.org/ gEDA]: An powerful electronics design package. Some RepRap electronics use it.<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Embedded_Systems Wikibooks: Embedded Systems]<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Robotics#Robotics.C2.B4_Free_Wikis Wikibooks Robotics]<br />
* [http://opencircuits.com/WikiNode Open Circuits]<br />
* [http://openfarmtech.org/ Open Source Ecology wiki] ''needs WikiNode''<br />
* [http://www.pythononachip.org/ Python-on-a-Chip] (can this run on the RepRap microcontrollers?) ''needs WikiNode''<br />
* [http://reality.sculptors.com/cgi-bin/wiki the Reality Sculptors Wiki] ''needs WikiNode''<br />
* [http://open-bldc.org/ Open-BLDC wiki] is developing open-source electronics that give a better power/weight ratio than our [[StepperMotor]] and so might be useful in the [[RepCopter]]<br />
* [http://openservo.com/ OpenServo wiki] is developing open-source electronics similar to our [[MagServo]] that might possibly give a better power/cost ratio than our current [[StepperMotor]] based designs.<br />
* [http://www.buildlog.net/wiki/doku.php Buildlog.net Wiki] from [http://www.buildlog.net/ BuildLog.Net] where people document building a variety of DIY CNC machines including RepRaps.<br />
* ''please edit this section as neighbors are known''<br />
<br />
== WikiNodes ==<br />
The [http://web.archive.org/web/20070720194530/wikinodes.wiki.taoriver.net/moin.cgi/FrontPage Wiki Nodes Project] aims <br />
to create a fabric among wikis which allows users to traverse the universe of all wikis via topically related links. <br />
This wiki is also [http://wikiindex.com/RepRap_wiki listed in the WikiIndex], a related [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] project that further groups wikis <br />
by language, wiki-engine, edit mode and topical tags.<br />
<br />
(remove this: A little about us, we are wiki collaboration enthusiasts who work on many <br />
wiki projects and coordinate through [http://wikiindex.org/WikiProject:Wiki-Noding WikiIndex.org], please join us if you would like. <br />
Obviously, since this is wiki, please revert this edit if not wanted! :-) Best, --[[User:DavidCary|DavidCary]] 01:50, 6 April 2010 (UTC)<br />
<br />
[[Category:Community| ]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Degrees_of_openness&diff=85125Degrees of openness2013-03-07T12:15:31Z<p>Ipinson: /* Replicability */</p>
<hr />
<div>Openness is considered to be many things, it generally has positive connotations, but there is no agreed upon definition. Regardless of the exact definition you choose, openness can be influenced by a series of mechanisms such as norms (principle, standards and guidelines). The principles and standards can be legal or non-legal and may be implemented in concrete rules. Things like cultural norms and licenses (a legal tool) can affect behavior and in turn affect the level of openness. <br />
<br />
Openness can be differentiated into several criteria that fall into two basic categories, the ''product'' and the ''process'' by which it is developed. In the case of this open design project, the RepRap 3D printer is the subject and it is developed by a community through a distributed process. The development process to a large extent determines the openness of the creative work (subject).<br />
<br />
== Openness of the product ==<br />
=== Helpfulness===<br />
Do they check in their changes upstream at RepRap or do they try to create downstream documentation repositories?<br />
The RepRap wiki is not meant to advertise competing projects and should have a slight bias towards documenting on RepRap.<br />
In the same way that Debian does not host advertisements for RedHat.<br />
<br />
=== Openness of the license ===<br />
This can be applicable to source code, (CAD) or other design files and schematics and relevant documentation. Needless to say there is more to openness than just attaching a GPL license to your work.<br />
* See also: [[Open source hardware]]<br />
<br />
=== Up-to-date-ness ===<br />
Up-to-date-ness of the code, design files and relevant documentation made publicly available.<br />
<br />
=== Replicability ===<br />
Defined as: The ease with which a solution can be replicated by others. <br />
<br />
Replicability is a result and indicator of openness, but it also enables contributions. To illustrate this, a low replicability restricts the collaboration to a smaller group which [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] potentially decreases the openness of the process; there is a lower incentive to openly communicate (e.g. online) if all developers work under the same physical roof.<br />
<br />
* Can the work be replicated based on what is publicly available?<br />
* To what degree is it codified and/or documented? Are CAD files available or just pictures?<br />
* Replicability is also dependent on the choice of modules, are they exotic or ubiquitous. Are they sold separately or only through full kits.<br />
<br />
=== Layers of openness ===<br />
There is a stack of layers in technology which could each be open or closed. Is it an open design based on mostly closed parts vs. open design with many open parts (are control electronics commercial off-the-shelf or open)?<br />
<br />
=== Open standards ===<br />
* Does it comply with open standards and to what degree?<br />
* Example: BitsFromBytes' RapMan uses G-Code, how compatible is the implementation with other 3D printers? Open standards based systems should allow you to use OSS toolpath generation software to control it. Adherence to open standards can increase compatibility and decrease duplication of effort. Open standards should be agreed on by the majority of the relevant stakeholders, arrived at through a publicly accessible process and should be publicly documented.<br />
<br />
== Openness of the development process ==<br />
=== Transparency ===<br />
* A project can be fully open source but decisions made internally without others being involved, e.g. complete closed governance (e.g. Google Chrome is controlled by Google unlike Chromium which is more under community control). <br />
* Does the vendor blog about their developments? Is it allowing and possibly encouraging user feedback and contributions?<br />
<br />
=== Centrality of control vs. distributed contributions ===<br />
* Are the majority of contributions centralized? [[User:ErikDeBruijn|Personally, I]] have the feeling that Fab@Home is developed more centrally (mostly at Cornell) than RepRap (quite a share of the development done beyond core team), but I'm probably too biased to really judge this.<br />
* This could be for various reasons:<br />
** Barriers to contributions can exist because of practical circumstances, such as documentation being mainly published as a single PDF file instead of a publicly accessible and writable wiki.<br />
** Because of a different segment that the vendor addresses. For example, professional engineers and artists (e.g. Stratasys' & EOS' customers) might be less willing to contribute, they want to use the machine as it is and don't feel the need (or FLOSS' cultural imperative of sharing) to modify and collaborate in doing so.<br />
<br />
== Other metrics and concepts that are associated with openness ==<br />
=== Modular architecture ===<br />
A modular architecture also improves the ease of adaptation for different purposes and modification to work better, in other words it affects the 'hackability' of the product. This makes a ''different'' product rather than better or worse because benefits of either depend on what you want to do with it. The modular architecture is not directly related to openness, but it is easier and people are more likely to contribute if they can work independently/concurrently. On the other hand, e.g. BitsFromBytes have a single monolithic PCB (and no FLOSS CAD files, but that aside) and this has benefits (no need to wire up different PCBs). Modularity and stable interfaces can make it easier to integrate the work of others and get the real 'distributed collaboration' going that is typical of healthy open source projects.<br />
<br />
=== Patents ===<br />
A work can be patented but by this process become fully disclosed. In a way it is open yet it cannot freely be used until the patent expires. For the purpose of collaboration this may can create limitations.<br />
<br />
== Further reading ==<br />
* the [[Combinatorics Problem]] page goes into much more detail describing the "stack of layers" of a "modular architecture".<br />
<br />
[[Category:Community]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRapPro_Huxley&diff=85124RepRapPro Huxley2013-03-07T12:15:26Z<p>Ipinson: /* General notes */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|RepRapPro_Huxley}}<br />
{{RepRapPro_Huxley_Contents}}<br />
<br />
=Introduction=<br />
<br />
[[Image:reprappro-huxley.jpg|thumb|500px|right|RepRapPro Huxley fitted with [[Melzi|Melzi electronics]]]]<br />
<br />
These pages are the complete instructions for building, commissioning and using the [http://reprappro.com/ RepRapPro Ltd] version of RepRap Huxley.<br />
<br />
Like all RepRap machines, [http://reprappro.com/Huxley RepRapPro Huxley] is fully open-source. It is licenced under the GPL. All the design files and software are available from the [https://github.com/reprappro RepRapPro Ltd Github] repository. And it is [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16625 here in the Thingiverse] and [http://www.rascomras.com/doc/127/reprappro-huxley-completa.html in RAScomRAS]<br />
<br />
If you want to print the plastic parts for a RepRapPro Huxley, [[How_to_Print_RepRapPro_Huxley|see this wiki page]].<br />
<br />
=General notes=<br />
<br />
Give yourself plenty of space and ensure your work area is clean. Dust and dirt are a 3D printer's worst enemy.<br />
All printed parts have been printed on various [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] RepRap machines from suppliers within the RepRap community. Despite the fact that these machines are highly tuned RepRap 3D printers, some holes and features may need a little fettling to get the best performance from the RepRapPro Huxley. This is especially true for the Igus bushings used for the Z axis. There is a video how-to on fettling 3D printed parts [http://vimeo.com/14492980 here on Vimeo]. Don't fettle the 3mm holes on the [http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/thumb/5/5a/Reprappro-huxley-x-carriage.jpg/150px-Reprappro-huxley-x-carriage.jpg huxley-x-carriage] though (we changed the assembly screws without changing the drawing)!<br />
<br />
Before you start the build, please ensure you have all the components as listed on the packing list included in the kit. If anything is missing, please contact us via email: [[File:reprappro-em.png|150px]]<br />
<br />
We understand that people may want to change aspects of the machine's design, and in fact we encourage this as it is one of the benefits of open source development. Before changing anything, please be aware that the RepRapPro Huxley has been designed to maximise the build volume relative to the the machine's footprint, and as such many of its components fit closely to others. So consider your changes carefully before you try to implement them. And when you find improvements, please tell us so that we can include them in future kits, and so that existing owners can upgrade their own machines.<br />
<br />
BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO ASSEMBLE ANY PART OF THE RepRapPro HUXLEY 3D PRINTER, PLEASE READ THESE BUILD INSTRUCTIONS FULLY AND ENSURE YOU UNDERSTAND THEM. Although all parts are covered by warranty, this will be invalidated by your not following these build instructions.<br />
<br />
The RepRapPro Huxley is a robust RepRap machine once assembled; however it does require a certain amount of care during assembly. If in doubt, force is usually not the answer! There are many ways to get support and advice, see the Get Support section below.<br />
<br />
Table of Contents<br />
<br />
# [[RepRapPro Huxley frame assembly|Frame assembly]]<br />
# [[RepRapPro Huxley y axis assembly|Y axis assembly]] <br />
# [[RepRapPro Huxley x axis assembly|X axis assembly]] <br />
# [[RepRapPro Huxley z axis assembly|Z axis assembly]] <br />
# [[RepRapPro Huxley heatbed assembly|Heated bed assembly]]<br />
# [[RepRapPro Huxley extruder drive assembly|Extruder drive assembly]]<br />
# [[RepRapPro Huxley hot end assembly|Hot end assembly]]<br />
# [[RepRapPro Huxley wiring|Wiring]]<br />
# [[RepRapPro Huxley commissioning|Commissioning]]<br />
# [[RepRapPro_Huxley_printing|Printing]]<br />
# [[RepRapPro Huxley maintenance|Maintenance]]<br />
# [[RepRapPro Huxley troubleshooting|Troubleshooting]]<br />
# [[RepRapPro_Huxley_improvements|Improvements]]<br />
<br />
=Get support=<br />
<br />
If you find you need help or advice with assembling, commissioning or using your RepRapPro Huxley 3d printer, you can use the following channels:<br />
<br />
* [http://www.emakershop.com/forum?vasthtmlaction=vforum&g=1.0 Our Forum]. This is shared with the eMaker Huxley forum, as the machines are so similar.<br />
<br />
* [http://irc.netsplit.de/channels/?net=freenode&chat=emaker RepRapPro/eMaker channel on freenode irc]<br />
<br />
* Email [[File:reprappro-em.png|150px]]<br />
<br />
=Archived documents for older versions=<br />
<br />
If you have an older RepRapPro Huxley and want a past copy of this documentation see this link:<br />
<br />
[[RepRapPro Archived Documentation]]<br />
<br />
=Tool List=<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-mechanical.jpg|500px|right]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Tools required for the mechanical build of the RepRapPro Huxley 3D printer:<br />
<br />
*Drill bits<br />
<br />
*Precision screwdriver set<br />
<br />
*Allen keys, 1.5mm and 2.5mm<br />
<br />
*10mm spanner (M6 nut)<br />
<br />
*15cm adjustable spanner<br />
<br />
*File<br />
<br />
*Half round needle file<br />
<br />
*Craft knife<br />
<br />
*Fine tweezers<br />
<br />
* 300mm rule<br />
<br />
*Vernier or digital callipers<br />
<br />
*Square<br />
<br />
*Fine nosed pliers<br />
<br />
*Pliers<br />
<br />
*Bench vice<br />
<br />
*For the Hot End Assembly you will also need some PTFE plumber's tape<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
==Electrical==<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-electrical.jpg|500px|right]]<br />
<br />
Tools required for the electrical build of the RepRapPro Huxley 3D printer:<br />
<br />
*Digital Multimeter<br />
<br />
*A fine-tipped soldering iron<br />
<br />
*Precision screwdrivers<br />
<br />
*Solder (flux is also useful)<br />
<br />
*Hair dryer (or other heat source for heating heatshrink wire sleeving; the barrel of a soldering iron works OK)<br />
<br />
*Wire strippers/cutters<br />
<br />
*Ratchet crimp tool [http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipment/Crimping-tool-for-PCB-connectors-30535 Such as this one]<br />
<br />
*Molex crimp tool (such as the 63811-1000, you may also want the extraction tool 11-03-0044, Molexkits.com)<br />
<br />
*Scissors<br />
<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=Next step=<br />
<br />
[[RepRapPro Huxley frame assembly|Frame assembly]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Build_Instructions]]<br />
[[Category:RepRapPro]]<br />
[[Category:Huxley]]<br />
[[Category:Huxley_Development]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRapPro_Huxley_y_axis_assembly&diff=85120RepRapPro Huxley y axis assembly2013-03-07T11:13:45Z<p>Ipinson: /* Step 1: Sled assembly */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|RepRapPro_Huxley_y_axis_assembly}}<br />
{{RepRapPro_Huxley_Contents}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=Goal=<br />
<br />
By the end of this stage, your machine will look like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-axis-finished.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
=Tools=<br />
<br />
You will need the following tools:<br />
<br />
*Phillips screwdriver<br />
<br />
*Adjustable spanner<br />
<br />
*1.5mm hex key (Allen) for M3 socket set screw (grub)<br />
<br />
=Step 1: Sled assembly=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|'''RP parts''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|rowspan="13"|[[File:reprappro-huxley-section-1-components.jpg|300px]]<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-bearing-holder-fixed.png|150px]] <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-bearing-holder-float.png|150px]] <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-belt-clamp.jpg]]<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-belt-tensioner.jpg|150px]]<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|'''Hardware''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|Lasercut frog <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M6 smooth rods 270 mm<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|LM6UU Linear bearings <br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 12 screw <br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 25 screw <br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nyloc nuts <br />
|5<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nuts <br />
|4<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Assemble the parts of the Y sled as shown:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-section-1-assembled.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Push the bearings in from the side. Don't try to clip them in from the top. They should be an interference fit and should stay where they are put.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-bearings-from-the-side.jpg|300px]] [[File:reprappro-huxley-bearings-from-the-side-b.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
When correctly fitted, the linear bearing should protrude by the same amount from each end of the bearing holders.<br />
<br />
<br />
The screws should be inserted from the top of the frog (the side without the markings). Use the 12mm M3 screws and nuts for the bearing holders and the 25mm M3 [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] screws and nylock nuts for the Y Belt Clamps. This image is showing the bottom of the frog (the side '''with''' the markings).<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-section-1-assembled-b.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Fit an M3 nyloc nut inside the hexagonal recess of the belt tensioner, then loosely attach this to the frog assembly using four M3 nyloc nuts. The belt tensioner has a boss at one end. This should be fitted nearest the camera as shown in the image below.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-section-1-assembled-c.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Adjust the gap between the 270mm Y rods at both ends so they are parallel and their inner edges are 103mm apart. Don't tighten their clamps yet. <br />
<br />
Slide the 270mm Y rods partly out of the machine, put the sled onto them, and refit their free ends into the frame: <br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-section-1-sliding.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Ensure the linear bearings slide freely along the smooth rods. If the bearings are a little tight, insert the smooth rod into a power drill, then spin the rod for a few seconds whilst holding a scouring pad over it. Clean the rod with a cloth, then try the bearing fit again.<br />
<br />
Slide the Y sled back and forth. It should run completely freely. If it doesn't, that means that the rods are not quite parallel - move their ends a little bit using the nuts either side.<br />
<br />
Gradually tighten the ends of the rods, checking for free running right from end to end all the while as you do so.<br />
<br />
=Step 2: Y motor and idler brackets=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|'''RP parts''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|rowspan="8"|[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-section-2-components.jpg|300px]]<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-idler-cad-1.png|150px]] <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-idler-cad-2.png|150px]]<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-motor-cad-1.png|150px]] <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-motor-cad-2.png|150px]]<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|'''Hardware''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|623 bearing <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3 x 16mm screw <br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|M3 washer <br />
|5<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nut <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|NEMA 14 stepper motor <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|M3x10mm socket set screw (grub) <br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|14 Tooth moulded pulley <br />
|1<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Later versions of Huxley have printed pulleys like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-y-new-pulley.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
These simply push onto the motor shaft (see below).<br />
<br />
The next stage is to fit the Y axis idler and motor assemblies. Each end is made up of two printed parts and some hardware. Each end is in two parts to enable printing these components without the need for support material.<br />
<br />
==Motor end==<br />
<br />
If you have a moulded pulley, screw the set screw into the toothed-belt pulley. Take care not to cross the threads - the plastic is not hard. Screw it in far enough to project into the hole down the middle, then back it off so it is no longer projecting. Blow any displaced pieces of plastic from the central hole. Put the pulley on the motor shaft with its hub outermost, as shown. Use the toothed belt to get it roughly the right distance along the shaft. Align the set screw with the flat on the shaft, and tighten it. Do not over tighten it - the pulley has an internal embedded nut, and over tightening will cause this to fracture the pulley.<br />
<br />
If you have a printed pulley push it onto the shaft. It should be a tight fit, and you may have to tap it into place. Use a soft hammer, or a wood block. If you place a tube against the pulley that will fit over the motor shaft, you can tap the end of the tube to place the pulley. Support the motor shaft, not the motor body, from the other end as you tap. You can secure it with a drop of superglue if you like (make sure the shaft is completely free of grease). Take care that no glue gets near the shaft's entry to the motor. <br />
<br />
When you fit the 14-tooth pulley to the Y axis stepper motor, ensure that the teeth face in towards the motor (the Y axis belt will not fit with the pulley the other way around). Leave about a millimetre at the bottom of the shaft so that the pulley can turn freely. <br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-pulley.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Screw the motor to the Y motor bracket using the three M3x16mm screws with washers under their heads (if the screws are a little short leave out the washers).<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-motor.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
The Y motor goes at the back of the machine, with the motor to the left when looking from the front of the machine and the wires pointing in towards the 626 bearing slot.<br />
<br />
Fit the the Y motor bracket either side of the 626 bearing, and between the serrated washers on the top cross bar.<br />
<br />
Move the Y sled to be at the same end, and make sure that the motor is positioned so that the bearings line up with the centre of the two holes in the sled that will hold the toothed-belt clamp.<br />
<br />
The Y axis motor end will now look like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-motor-fitted.jpg|300px]] [[File:reprappro-huxley-y-motor-fitted-b.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Note the orientation of the stepper motor, with the wires pointing in towards the machine and the motor on the left of the bracket when looking at the machine from this end.<br />
<br />
==Idler end==<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-idler.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The Y axis idler end is also constructed from two printed parts. Screw them together with the bearing inside as shown. If the 16mm screw is a little short for the idler part, leave the washer off.<br />
<br />
Move the Y sled to the front of the machine (i.e. the opposite end to the Y motor you just fitted) and use the Y belt holes to get the idler bracket in roughly the right place.<br />
<br />
Measure the gap from one of nuts holding the motor bracket to the nut along from it that holds one of the smooth Y bar clamps.<br />
<br />
Adjust the idler bracket so that the gap between its corresponding nut and its Y-bar-clamp nut is the same. Tighten the nuts to hold the Y idler bracket.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-idler-fitted.jpg|300px]] [[File:reprappro-huxley-y-idler-fitted-b.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
=Step 3: Y axis belt=<br />
<br />
For this step you just need one 600mm T2.5 PU toothed belt. Your T2.5 belt may have been supplied as a single piece used for both the Y axis and X axis assemblies, so when you cut off the excess belt you'll want to retain as much as possible of the remainder.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-y-belt-fitted_2.jpg|300px]] [[File:reprappro-huxley-y-belt-fitted_3.jpg|300px]][[File:reprappro-huxley-y-belt-fitted.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Route the belt through the Y axis motor end, around the 14-tooth pulley, under the bearing, along to the idler end with one twist so that the flat edge then goes under the 626 bearing, around the 623 bearing and back to the belt clamp. Feed the ends through and overlap the two ends of the belt by pulling it lightly and overlapping by about 5 or 6 teeth. Secure in the belt clamp by tightening the screws. <br />
<br />
Line the belt up by eye. The top should be in line with the bottom and the belt should be square where it sits under the clamps.<br />
<br />
Hand-turn the Y motor by holding the hub of the 14-tooth pulley between your fingers. You will be able to feel the clicks as the motor's rotor magnets run past the ends of its stator coils. Make sure everything on the Y axis stays in line and runs freely right from one end to the other and back.<br />
<br />
You should have some M3 grub screws in the kit which are left over from when we used the older style of pulley. One of these can now be used in the belt tensioner.<br />
<br />
=Next step=<br />
<br />
[[RepRapPro Huxley x axis assembly|X axis assembly]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Build_Instructions]]<br />
[[Category:RepRapPro]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Notas_de_ensamblaje_de_Mendel&diff=85119Notas de ensamblaje de Mendel2013-03-07T11:13:00Z<p>Ipinson: /* Guiado */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Template:Mendel Documentation Header ES|Mechanical Construction}}<br />
<br />
== Tiempo y espacio ==<br />
<br />
Después de preparar los materiales, el montaje debería durar un fin de semana.<br />
Necesitarás al menos un espacio de 2 metros cuadrados, algo de buena música y abundante té.<br />
<br />
== Hoja de especificaciones para el montaje ==<br />
<br />
Las [[especificaciones de montaje de Mendel]] les permite a los ensambladores experimentados sobrevivir solos con la hoja de calculo. Sin embargo, si es tu primera vez, las siguientes páginas te guiarán en el montaje desde el principio al final, haciendo referencias a la hoja de calculo donde sea necesario. <br />
<br />
== Distancias de guiado y de medida ==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Jigging.jpg|300px|right|border|Usando una barra separadora para calibrar el eje y]] <br />
<br />
Tu máquina necesitará un calibrado cuidadoso durante el montaje. Se requieren dos técnicas diferentes: guiado y medida. Las distancias de guiado serán etiquetadas en los diagramas con una “'''J'''”, y las de medida con una “'''M'''”. Necesitarás acudir a las [[especificaciones de montaje de Mendel]] para conocer el valor de esas distancias.<br />
<br />
=== Guiado ===<br />
<br />
Usa barras separadoras para calibrar las distancias comunes. Una buena solución para la guía del eje-y es pegar con cinta adhesiva una barra más larga sobre la barra separadora (ver imagen) para conseguir una alineación perpendicular. La barra de arriba solo debe sobresalir unos ~10 mm en cada [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] extremo. Esta solución no es necesaria para las otras dos guías. Otro buen método es usar varillas roscadas con tuercas a la distancia correcta. Si giras las tuercas en direcciones opuestas las bloquearás.<br />
<br />
=== Medida ===<br />
<br />
Lo mejor es usar una regla sin extremos si tienes una, pero con una regla común o una cinta métrica será suficiente.<br />
<br />
== Notas importantes del montaje ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* Usa siempre tuercas planas en las trampas receptoras de turcas de las piezas RP. Nunca uses las autoblocantes ya que la fuerza de rotación podría desgastar las trampas.<br />
* Puedes usar tuercas normales en lugar de las autoblocantes, solo necesitas aplicar una pequeña cantidad de [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loctite adhesivo] a las últimas roscas en donde estará la tuerca en su posición final, el LocTite 243 trabaja bien. Mira la pestaña de notas de las [[especificaciones de montaje de Mendel]]. El Super glue funcina tambi'en como alternativa a LocTite, pero solo necesita una gota pequeñita para evitar que las tuercas de la máquina se aflojen.<br />
* Aparte del caso de arriba, usa las autoblocantes donde sea posible ya que así se reduce la posibilidad de que se aflojen los cierres debido a la vibración.<br />
* No escatimes en arandelas por la misma razón.<br />
* Aprieta completamente todas las tuercas que ensamblas a menos que se diga otra cosa.<br />
* Encapsula siempre un rodamiento con una arandela estándar a cada lado para asegurar que se deslice suavemente (ver imagen).<br />
'''''Precaución: Lee siempre las instrucciones de todos los adhesivos, ya que son venenosos!'''''<br />
<br />
[[Image:bearing-assembly.png|border|400px]]<br />
<br />
----<br />
Vuelve a la página original, [[Construcción mecánica de Mendel]].<br />
<br />
== vídeos de montaje ==<br />
<br />
Hay algunos vídeos de [http://dev.forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,32525,36593#msg-36593 montaje] posteado en el foro de RepRap.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Mendel/es]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRapPro_Mendel_frame_assembly&diff=85118RepRapPro Mendel frame assembly2013-03-07T11:12:41Z<p>Ipinson: /* Step 1: Frame triangles */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RepRapPro Mendel Contents}}<br />
<br />
=Goal=<br />
<br />
By the end of this stage, your machine should look like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-mendel-frame-finished.jpg|500px|RepRapPro Mendel assembled frame]]<br />
<br />
=Tools=<br />
<br />
You will need the following tools<br />
<br />
*M8 (13mm) spanner<br />
*Adjustable spanner<br />
*300mm Rule<br />
*Lasercut MDF Measuring template (supplied with kit)<br />
*(optional) Spirit level, cotton and Blu-tack<br />
<br />
=Step 1: Frame triangles=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|columnspan="2"|[[File:Reprappro-mendel-triangle-parts.jpg|300px]]<br />
|- <br />
|'''Item'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|370mm M8 rods<br />
|6<br />
|-<br />
|Printed frame vertex with foot<br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|Printed frame vertex<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|Printed U clips<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M8 nuts<br />
|28<br />
|-<br />
|M8 lock washers<br />
|28<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Note that there are three types of printed U clips in your kit:<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-frame-U-clips.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
The ones on the left are the frame clips, the ones in the middle are the Z-drive flexible coupling clips, and the ones on the right are the printed-circuit-board clips. For this step you want the ones on the left.<br />
<br />
Split the components into two [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] equal sets, then loosely screw them together into each frame triangle. Make sure you slide a belt clamp along the bottom M8 threaded bars between the frame vertices with feet, with a serrated washer and nut either side. The other nuts should also all have serrated washers under them.<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-triangles.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Make the gap between the frame vertices measured face to face next to where the nuts and washers tighten about 290 mm.<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-frame-template.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Your kit has a template to make it easy to get these measurements right.<br />
<br />
Don't tighten anything at this stage.<br />
<br />
=Step 2: Cross bars=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|columnspan="2"|[[File:Reprappro-mendel-x-bars-parts.jpg|300px]]<br />
|- <br />
|'''Item''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|330mm M8 rods<br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|470mm M8 rods<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|Printed U clips<br />
|4<br />
|-<br />
|M8 mudguard washers<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|8mm bearings<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M8 lock washers<br />
|14 (12)<br />
|-<br />
|M8 washers<br />
|10 (28)<br />
|-<br />
|M8 nuts<br />
|28 (46)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
The figures in brackets are the numbers if you want to add clamp nuts across the top bars (see below).<br />
<br />
Assemble the bars as shown in this picture:<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-x-bars.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
From top to bottom and left to right the sequences are:<br />
<br />
# Nut, nut.<br />
# Nut, nut, lock washer, lock washer, nut, nut.<br />
# Nut, nut, lock washer, U, lock washer, nut, nut, mudguard washer, washer, bearing, washer, mudguard washer, nut, nut, lock washer, U, lock washer, nut, nut.<br />
# Nut, nut, lock washer, U, lock washer, nut, nut, lock washer, 5 x washer, bearing, washer, lock washer, nut, nut, lock washer, U, lock washer, nut, nut.<br />
# Nut, 5x(nut, washer, washer, nut), nut<br />
# Nut, 5x(nut, washer, washer, nut), nut<br />
<br />
Take care not to confuse lock washers and ordinary washers. If you don't want the clamp nuts leave out the [5x(nut, washer, washer, nut)]s on<br />
the bottom two bars.<br />
<br />
What, you are asking, are the clamp nuts for? We have plans to add extra devices that will mount between the top two bars. The clamp nuts are there to retain those yet-to-be-designed devices. In all probability they will not be needed - we will almost certainly design the devices with U clamps that will attach directly without the nuts - but we put the nuts on the prototype just in case we might need them. If you want our recommendation: leave them off, and definitely leave them off if you are building the multi-colour/multi-material Mendel.<br />
<br />
But if you do leave them off put just one of the nuts on plus a washer and lock washer to its left on each of the two bars (this will be used to retain an extruder drive bracket on some versions of the machine, and won't get in the way if you are building other versions). In this case the two long bars go:<br />
<br />
5. Nut, washer, lock washer, nut, nut<br />
<br />
6. Nut, washer, lock washer, nut, nut<br />
<br />
=Step 3: Put them all together=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|columnspan="2"|[[File:Reprappro-mendel-x-bar-ends-parts.jpg|300px]]<br />
|-<br />
|'''Item'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|M8 nuts<br />
|12<br />
|-<br />
|M8 lock washers<br />
|24<br />
|-<br />
|Printed XLR panel-plug holder<br />
|1<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Firstly screw the cross bars into one of the triangles as shown:<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-frame-one-side.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
This is the moment of what embryologists would call gastrulation: the point at which your RepRap acquires a front, back, top, bottom, left and right - as shown. The x, y, and z coordinate directions of the finished machine are also shown. If you like, use sticky tape to attach small labels to the rods while you are building so you can remember which side and which direction is which.<br />
<br />
If you put the small number of nuts on the top bars, the ends with the extra washers are to the left.<br />
<br />
On the bottom, and using the numbers of the rods from Step 2:<br />
<br />
* Back top: Rod 4, with the 5 washers together to the left.<br />
* Back bottom: Rod 2.<br />
* Front top: Rod 3.<br />
* Front bottom (yes - we know this is funny...): Rod 1.<br />
<br />
And at the top attach the two long Rods: 5 and 6.<br />
<br />
Use two locking washers and a nut on each rod.<br />
<br />
The XLR bracket attaches back left. The indentations on it go towards the inside of the machine - they accommodate the washers on the frame.<br />
<br />
Next screw the second triangle to the other end of the cross bars:<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-frame-second-step.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Now go round the frame tightening everything up using two spanners. Tighten the triangles first, then the six bars in the ''x'' direction.<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-frame-template.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Use the template to get the measurements right.<br />
<br />
Make the gap between the faces of the vertices on the triangles 290mm, as mentioned above. Make the gap in the ''x'' direction between the faces of the vertices 273mm.<br />
<br />
Get the two top rods even, with an equal amount projecting each side, then move the back one 5mm to the right and the front one 5mm to the left.<br />
<br />
Try to get the measurements accurate. But it is more important to get the lengths equal than to get them precise.<br />
<br />
You will find that you can make very fine adjustments when things are almost tight by slightly slackening a nut on one side of a join then tightening the nut on the other side.<br />
<br />
=Step 4: Z-motor mounts, diagonal, and power connector=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|columnspan="2"|[[File:Reprappro-mendel-frame-top.jpg|300px]]<br />
|-<br />
|'''Item'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|470mm M8 rods<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|Printed Z motor holders<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|Printed U clips<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M8 nuts<br />
|12 (14)<br />
|-<br />
|M8 lock washers<br />
|10<br />
|-<br />
|M8 washers<br />
|6<br />
|-<br />
|XLR panel plug<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|12mm M3 caps<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M3 washers<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nuts<br />
|2<br />
|}<br />
<br />
The two extra nuts are for the optional lock on the Z bar U clips - see below.<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-frame-loose-assembly.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Put the two U clips already on the frame roughly in the middle of their bars, then push one of the 470mm rods through. You may have to twist it, using its thread to move it - it can be quite a snug fit. Use nuts and lock washers to put two more U clips on its ends for the Z smooth rods, as shown. Leave all these lose:<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-z-bar-bottom-mount.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
If you want put two extra nuts just inside the ones on the U clips for the Z smooth rods - these will allow you to lock the inside position of the U clips so you can slacken and tighten them later to assemble the machine without losing the vertical adjustment on the Z smooth rods.<br />
<br />
Next thread the base diagonal rod through two of the four feet. Put nuts and lock washers on it both inside and outside each foot, but leave them lose.<br />
<br />
Put four smooth washers on the top bars, then put the Z motor mounts on as shown. Secure them with two nuts each, with one smooth washer and one lock washer. The smooth washer goes on the clamp that will hold the Z rods. Tighten the other nuts against their lock washers, but leave the Z-rod-clamp nuts lose:<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-z-motor-mount-detail.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Fit the XLR plug to the printed XLR panel-plug holder using the M3 screws, nuts and washers. The washers go under the nuts. Fit the plug so that the triangle formed by its three pins points upwards.<br />
<br />
=Step 5: Smooth rods=<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center;"<br />
|columnspan="2"|[[File:Reprappro-mendel-y-and-z-bar-parts.jpg|300px]]<br />
|-<br />
|'''Item'''<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|-<br />
|400mm smooth rods (Y)<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|350mm smooth rods (Z)<br />
|2<br />
|}<br />
<br />
If the ends of the rods are sharp from cutting, use a file to smooth off the ends to give a small conical chamfer (0.5 .. 1 mm). Without it, there is a risk of unseating the balls inside linear bearings while inserting the rods.<br />
<br />
Adjust the U clips for the Y rods at the front and back of the frame so that the gaps between their outer nuts and the nuts on the frame vertices are about 20mm. Slide the Y rods through. Don't tighten them:<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-y-bars-fitted.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Next place the frame on a flat surface. Wooden furniture, by and large, is not flat. But thick kitchen worktops are very flat.<br />
<br />
Chances are that the frame will rock slightly about one or the other diagonal.<br />
<br />
Tighten the diagonal bar in such a way as to stop the rock. If the frame rocks about the bar's diagonal, the gap between its nuts needs to be bigger. If the frame rocks about the opposite diagonal, the gap between the diagonal nuts needs to be smaller.<br />
<br />
Adjust the U clamps on the left-hand Y rod so that their nuts are 22mm from the nuts on the left frame triangle, and then adjust the right-hand Y rod U clamps so there is 175mm between the rods. Leave the clamps lose.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Aligning the Z Rods==<br />
<br />
You can now slide the two Z smooth rods into place. '''Do not over-tighten the clamping nuts on the Z motor mounts.''' The rods need to be held firm, that is all.<br />
<br />
Use a set-square to get the angle of the Z smooth rods correct.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-huxley-2011-07-28-08.57.23-300x225.jpg]]<br />
<br />
You can now tighten the M8 nuts along the bottom cross bar.<br />
<br />
==Alternative alignment method==<br />
<br />
Some people swear by this method, others hate it...<br />
<br />
For this you will need the spirit level, two pieces of cotton, and a small blob of Blu-tack.<br />
<br />
Build the frame as above, as far as "Aligning the Z Rods".<br />
<br />
Place the frame on a '''flat''' surface (as just mentioned, 40mm-thick Formica-covered kitchen worktops are remarkably flat). <br />
<br />
Put the spirit level across the Y smooth bars, and place folded paper shims under the left or right feet until the frame is level left-right. You will discover that a spirit level is an exquisitely sensitive instrument, and that it can easily detect a couple thicknesses of paper.<br />
<br />
Rotate the spirit level through a right angle so it rests between the front and back cross bars, and get the frame level front-back too.<br />
<br />
Check the frame is level in both directions.<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-spirit-plumb.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Now thread two lengths of cotton (red arrow) down through the top bracket and the U clamp on the bottom where the Z axis smooth rods will be. Attach it to the Z-axis-smooth-rod holes at the top with Blu-tack such that it is half-way round the inside of the clamp arc.<br />
<br />
Put a small blob of Blu-tack on the bottom of each piece of cotton to act as a plumb weight.<br />
<br />
Now, in the Y direction adjust the positions of the threaded rod at the bottom and the Z-axis-smooth-rod U clamps so that the cotton falls freely in the middle of the U-clamp holes.<br />
<br />
Tighten the nuts on the main frame holding the threaded rod, making sure that the cotton stays in the middle of the holes where it was.<br />
<br />
Now tighten the inner nuts to move the U clamps outwards so that the cotton just kisses the edge of the U holes in exactly the same relative position as it is falling through the clamps at the top of the frame.<br />
<br />
Slide the Z-axis rods in, tighten the clamps from the outside, and check with a square as in the section above. If you've done everything carefully there should be little or no discrepancy, but it is more important to have a right angle than to have the Z-rods plumb.<br />
<br />
=Frame finished=<br />
<br />
You will now have an assembled RepRapPro Mendel frame (though the smooth Y rods and the bearings will still be lose):<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-frame-finished.jpg|300px|RepRapPro Huxley assembled frame]]<br />
<br />
=Next stage=<br />
<br />
[[RepRapPro Mendel y axis assembly|assemble the Y axis]].<br />
<br />
[[Category:Build_Instructions]]<br />
[[Category:RepRapPro]]<br />
[[Category:Mendel]]<br />
[[Category:Mendel_Development]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Microcontroller_firmware_installation&diff=85117Microcontroller firmware installation2013-03-07T11:12:28Z<p>Ipinson: /* Compiling */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Template:Mendel Documentation Header}}<br />
<br />
{|<br />
[[Image:motherboard-programming.jpg|500px|right]]<br />
|RepRap has a Motherboard that is the overall controller of the machine. Each extruder has a subsidiary controller. The motherboard and extruder controllers have to be programmed. This page tells you how to do that.<br />
<br />
{{Alternative Toolchain Notice|firmware|install}}<br />
<br />
Both the motherboard and the extruder controllers need to have a bootloader installed before you can upload programs to them. This only needs to be done once, and, if you bought ready-made boards, the bootloader will already have been installed in them. But if you made the boards yourself you will have to do that. [[Burning_the_Sanguino_Bootloader|Bootloader-installing instructions are here]].<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Before you start==<br />
<br />
These instructions were tested on Ubuntu 32-bit, are known to work on Ubuntu 64-bit, all variants of Mac OS X (including PPC) and Windows 32-bit, but ''not'' Windows 64-bit. If you do manage to get this to work with Windows 7 64-bit, please let us know how you did it, by adding instructions to this Wiki.<br />
<br />
===Setting up Arduino Software for Sanguino===<br />
<br />
Before you can download into your Sanguino motherboard, you need to have the Arduino environment set up to be able to recognize the different Atmel 644p processor.<br />
<br />
Download and install [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino software], then download the Sanguino extensions from Zach's [http://code.google.com/p/sanguino/downloads/list Sanguino site].<br />
<br />
Warning: make sure that the IDE version of Arduino that you use matches the Sanguino version.<br />
<br />
== Newer versions of arduino (at least 0018 and later) ==<br />
<br />
These versions have better support for hardware like the Sanguino, so you only need to add one folder instead of doing a lot of editing.<br />
<br />
Copy the Sanguino folder that's in the downloaded zip file into your arduino-00XX/Hardware folder so that your folder structure looks like this:<br />
<br />
arduino-00XX/hardware/Sanguino<br />
<br />
Make sure you select Sanguino from the boards menu!<br />
<br />
== Older versions of arduino (0017 and earlier) ==<br />
<br />
In the downloaded core files you will need to copy the folders to their respective locations.<br />
<br />
* copy sanguino-software-1.x/cores/sanguino to arduino/hardware/cores/sanguino<br />
* copy sanguino-software-1.x/bootloaders/atmega644p to arduino/hardware/bootloaders/atmega644p<br />
* copy all the folders in sanguino-software-1.x/libraries/ to arduino/hardware/libraries/ overwriting the existing libraries.<br />
<br />
Next you need to edit the boards.txt file to add the Sanguino to the available boards.<br />
It can be found in arduino/hardware/boards.txt <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Restart the Arduino environment and you can now download your firmware to the Sanguino.<br />
<br />
Full instructions are also available [http://sanguino.cc/softwareforwindows here.]<br />
<br />
==Programming the Motherboard==<br />
===Compiling===<br />
<br />
The C++ program to be loaded into the Motherboard is in the directory ''mendel/firmware/FiveD_GCode/FiveD_GCode_Interpreter'' of the download. The latest version is [http://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/viewvc/reprap/trunk/software/firmware/FiveD_GCode/FiveD_GCode_Interpreter/ here in the RepRap Subversion repository], but take care with that - it may be an unstable development version. The stable version is located inside the [http://sourceforge.net/projects/reprap/ reprap-mendel-yyyymmdd.zip] that you downloaded when you installed the RepRap Host software [[Installing_RepRap_on_your_computer]] ).<br />
<br />
In your download directory there is a distribution configuration file called ''configuration.h.dist''. Copy that file to a new file called ''configuration.h''. The reason for this copying is that, when you download a new version of RepRap, you may not want to over-write your personal [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] configuration file.<br />
<br />
Run the [http://arduino.cc Arduino Development Environment] and load up the sketchbook ''mendel/firmware/FiveD_GCode/FiveD_GCode_Interpreter/FiveD_GCode_Interpreter.pde''. Your new ''configuration.h'' file should appear as one of the tabs.<br />
<br />
Click on that tab and read through the file. It is extensively commented and gives instructions on what to do to configure the firmware for your particular RepRap setup. When you have edited it, select ''File->Save''.<br />
<br />
In the Arduino Development Environment select ''Tools->Board->Sanguino'' then select ''Sketch->Verify/Compile''.<br />
<br />
The program should compile without errors.<br />
<br />
===Uploading===<br />
<br />
Plug the [[Mendel USB and power connector|USB<->serial cable you made up on this page]] into the six-pin connector on the left edge of the Motherboard as shown. Make sure you get it the right way round. The RTS connection (which you should have coloured green) goes to the top end of the Motherboard connector labeled "GRN". The ground connection (coloured black) goes at the bottom, labeled "BLK".<br />
<br />
Check that you have a jumper fitted on the 2-pin connector by C8 on the Motherboard just to the right of the 6-pin connector you're using. It is this jumper that allows the board to be programmed.<br />
<br />
Plug a USB cable into the USB-B socket, but don't connect the other end to your computer yet.<br />
<br />
Check the list of connections at ''Tools->Serial Port'' and note them. Then plug in the USB cable and check the list again - a new entry should have appeared (on Linux it will be something like ''/dev/ttyUSB0'', and on Windows it will be something like ''COM5''). Select that new entry if it hasn't automatically been selected by the Arduino software - it is the USB interface that you just plugged in.<br />
<br />
Incidentally - the Power LED on the Motherboard should now be alight. The Motherboard is USB powered.<br />
<br />
Select ''Upload to I/O Board'' (the little square box with the right -> arrow). <br />
<br />
On the Sanguino-derived gen-3 motherboard, you need to press the reset button in order to upload the firmware to it. This can be tricky, because not all computers are equal and may compile the firmware in different spans of time. You want to press reset as soon as you see the "Binary sketch size: X bytes (of a X byte maximum)" message.<br />
<br />
On at least some versions of the RepRap Gen3 motherboard, jumpering the auto reset jumper allows the Arduino IDE to automatically reset the board when uploading, which is very convenient and avoids all the manual timing issues.<br />
<br />
After a few seconds the debug LED on the Motherboard should flicker - this is the program being loaded into the board.<br />
<br />
After a few more seconds the Arduino Development Environment should say ''Done uploading'' and the debug LED should settle down to a regular pulse at about 2 Hz. That is the RepRap program running on the Motherboard.<br />
<br />
If the upload doesn't work, unplug the USB cable, wait a couple of seconds, and plug it back in. Then (with your non-mouse hand) hold down the Motherboard's RESET button. Hover the mouse over the ''Upload to I/O Board'' box, release the RESET, then almost immediately click the mouse.<br />
<br />
Or click ''Upload to I/O Board'' then press and hold the reset button on the motherboard until you see white text at the buttom of the Arduino IDE, then immediately release the reset button, and wait for the ''Done uploading''... <br />
<br />
To see how to test the programmed Motherboard, follow [[Testing_RepRap_Electronics#Testing_the_Motherboard |this link]].<br />
<br />
==Programming an Extruder Controller==<br />
<br />
[[Image:extruder-programming.jpg|500px|right]]<br />
<br />
The procedure for this is very similar to that for programming the Motherboard.<br />
<br />
===Compiling===<br />
<br />
The C++ program to be loaded into Extruder Controllers is in the directory ''mendel/firmware/FiveD_GCode/Extruder'' of the download. The latest version is [http://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/viewvc/reprap/trunk/mendel/firmware/FiveD_GCode/Extruder/ here in the RepRap Subversion repository], but take care with that - it may be an unstable development version. The stable version is located inside the [http://sourceforge.net/projects/reprap/ reprap-mendel-yyyymmdd.zip] that you downloaded when you installed the RepRap Host software. [[Installing_RepRap_on_your_computer]]<br />
<br />
In your download directory there is a distribution configuration file called ''configuration.h.dist''. Copy that file to a new file called ''configuration.h''. The reason for this copying is that, when you download a new version of RepRap, you may not want to over-write your personal configuration file.<br />
<br />
Run the [http://arduino.cc Arduino Development Environment] and load up the sketchbook ''mendel/firmware/FiveD_GCode/Extruder/Extruder.pde''. Your new ''configuration.h'' file should appear as one of the tabs.<br />
<br />
Click on that tab and read through the file. It is quite short. The comments give instructions on what to do to configure the firmware for your particular extruder setup. For details on calculating E_STEPS_per_MM, see the page [[Commissioning]]. When you have edited it, select ''File->Save''.<br />
<br />
If you are using a thermistor as an extruder temperature sensor you should also look at the file ''temperature.h''. Select the table that corresponds to your thermistor. If you are using a thermistor for which there is not a standard table that is not a problem. There's a Python program to generate tables for any thermistor. The program is in your RepRap files at ''mendel/firmware/createTemperatureLookup.py''. See [http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/Thermistor this page] for details.<br />
<br />
In the Arduino Development Environment select ''Tools->Board->Arduino Diecimila or Duemilanove w/ ATmega 168'' then select ''Sketch->Verify/Compile''.<br />
<br />
The program should compile without errors.<br />
<br />
===Uploading===<br />
<br />
Plug the [[Mendel USB and power connector|USB<->serial cable you made up on this page]] into the six-pin connector on the left edge of the Extruder Controller as shown. Make sure you get it the right way round. The RTS connection (which you should have coloured green) goes to the bottom end of the Extruder Controller connector labeled "GRN/RTS". The ground connection (coloured black) goes at the top, labeled "BLK/GND".<br />
<br />
Plug a USB cable into the USB-B socket, but don't connect the other end to your computer yet.<br />
<br />
Check the list of connections at ''Tools->Serial Port'' and note them. Then plug in the USB cable and check the list again - a new entry should have appeared (on Linux it will be something like ''/dev/ttyUSB0'', and on Windows it will be something like ''COM5''). Select that new entry if it hasn't automatically been selected by the Arduino software - it is the USB interface that you just plugged in.<br />
<br />
''You don't need a programming jumper on the extruder controller (2.2). You don't need to do the "press Reset after 5 seconds" trick to get the IDE to successfully upload. (Both of which you DO need for the 1.2 Motherboard)''<br />
<br />
Incidentally - the Power LED on the Extruder Controller should now be alight. The Extruder Controller is USB-powered for programming, and self-powered when it is running from its 12 volt supply. You may find that some of the other LEDs light as well - this is fine.<br />
<br />
Select ''Upload to I/O Board'' (the little square box with the right -> arrow). After a few seconds the debug LED on the Extruder Controller should flicker - this is the program being loaded into the board.<br />
<br />
After a few more seconds the Arduino Development Environment should say ''Done uploading'' and the debug LED should go out.<br />
<br />
If the upload doesn't work, unplug the USB cable, wait a couple of seconds, and plug it back in. Then (with your non-mouse hand) hold down the Extruder Controller's RESET button. Hover the mouse over the ''Upload to I/O Board'' box, release the RESET, then almost immediately click the mouse.<br />
<br />
To see how to test a programmed extruder controller, follow [[Testing_RepRap_Electronics#Testing_an_Extruder_Controller |this link]].<br />
<br />
After successfully uploading new firmware, we recommend immediately copying a [[snapshot]] of that exact firmware (and all the source code you used to build it) onto a second computer.<br />
<br />
==See also==<br />
<br />
See also the [http://www.reprap.org/bin/view/Main/Generation3Firmware Generation 3 Firmware] page.<br />
<br />
[[Category:How to make Mendel]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Instalaci%C3%B3n_del_firmware_del_microcontrolador&diff=85116Instalación del firmware del microcontrolador2013-03-07T11:12:00Z<p>Ipinson: /* Cargar */</p>
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<div>{{Template:Mendel Documentation Header ES}}<br />
<br />
{|<br />
[[Image:motherboard-programming.jpg|500px|right]]<br />
|RepRap tiene una placa base que es el controlador global de la máquina. Cada extrusor tiene un controlador secundario. La placa base y los controladores de extrusión tienen que ser programados. Esta página te dice como hacerlo.<br />
<br />
{{Alternative Toolchain Notice ES|firmware|instalar}}<br />
<br />
Tanto la placa base como el controlador de extrusión necesitan tener un bootloader instalado antes de que les puedas cargar los programas. Solo hace falta hacer esto una vez, y, si compraste placas preparadas, el bootloader ya estará instalado en ellas. Pero si hiciste las placas tu mismo, tienes que cargarlo. [[Burning_the_Sanguino_Bootloader|las instrucciones para instalar el Bootloader están aquí(en inglés)]].<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Antes de comenzar==<br />
===Instalar el software de Arduino para Sanguino===<br />
<br />
Antes de que puedas descargar en tu placa base Sanguino, necesitas tener el entorno Arduino instalado para ser capaz de reconocer el procesador Atmel 644p.<br />
<br />
Descarga e instala el [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software software de Arduino], luego descarga la extensión para Sanguino desde la [http://code.google.com/p/sanguino/downloads/list web de Sanguino] de Zach.<br />
<br />
Las nuevas versiones de arduino (desde la 0018 y posteriores) tienen un mejor soporte para hardware como el Sanguino, así que solo necesitas añadir una carpeta en lugar de editar un montón de cosas.<br />
<br />
Copia la carpeta de Sanguino que está en el archivo zip en tu carpeta arduino-00XX/Hardware de tal forma que tu estructura de carpetas quede como esto:<br />
<br />
arduino-00XX/Hardware/Sanguino<br />
<br />
¡Asegúrate de que seleccionas Sanguino en el menú de placas!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Las instrucciones que siguen a continuación están desfasadas y solo son aplicables para versiones viejas de Arduino y Sanguino.'''<br />
<br />
Necesitarás copiar las carpetas de los archivos del núcleo que has descargados a sus respectivas localizaciones.<br />
<br />
* copia sanguino-software-1.x/cores/sanguino a arduino/hardware/cores/sanguino<br />
* copia sanguino-software-1.x/bootloaders/atmega644p a arduino/hardware/bootloaders/atmega644p<br />
* copia todas las carpetas de sanguino-software-1.x/libraries/ a arduino/hardware/libraries/ <br />
sobrescribiendo las librerías existentes.<br />
<br />
A continuación necesitas editar el achivo boards.txt para añadir el Sanguino para la placa disponible.<br />
Se encuentra en arduino/hardware/boards.txt <br />
<br />
Reinicia el entorno Arduino y ahora puedes descargar tu firmware al Sanguino.<br />
<br />
Estas instrucciones están también disponible desde [http://sanguino.cc/softwareforwindows aquí(en inglés)].<br />
<br />
==Programando la placa base==<br />
===Compilar===<br />
<br />
El programa en C++ que debe ser cargado en la placa base esta en el directorio ''mendel/firmware/FiveD_GCode/FiveD_GCode_Interpreter'' de la descarga. La última versión está [http://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/viewvc/reprap/trunk/mendel/firmware/FiveD_GCode/FiveD_GCode_Interpreter/ aquí en el repositorio Subversion de RepRap], pero cuidado con esto - puede ser una versión de desarrollo inestable. La versión estable está localizada en [http://sourceforge.net/projects/reprap/ reprap-mendel-yyyymmdd.zip] que descargaste cuando instalaste el software anfitrión Reprap. [[Instalando RepRap en tu computador]]<br />
<br />
En tu directorio de descarga hay una archivo de configuración de la distribución llamado ''configuration.h.dist''. Cópialo a un nuevo archivo llamado ''configuration.h''. La razón para esta copia es que, cuando descargas una nueva versión de RepRap, puede que no quieras sobrescribir tu archivo de configuración personal.<br />
<br />
Carga el [http://arduino.cc Entorno de desarrollo Arduino] y carga el sketchbook ''mendel/firmware/FiveD_GCode/FiveD_GCode_Interpreter/FiveD_GCode_Interpreter.pde''. Tu nuevo archivo ''configuration.h'' debería aparecer como una de las pestañas.<br />
<br />
Haz click en esa pestaña y repasa el archivo. Está comentado'''(en inglés)''' en toda su extensión y da instrucciones de lo que hacer para configurar el firmware para tu instalación RepRap particular. Cuando lo hayas editado, selecciona ''File->Save''.<br />
<br />
En el entorno de desarrollo Arduino selecciona ''Tools->Board->Sanguino'' luego selecciona ''Sketch->Verify/Compile''.<br />
<br />
El programa debería compilar sin errores.<br />
<br />
===Cargar===<br />
<br />
Enchufa el [[Mendel USB and power connector|cable USB<->serial que fabricaste en esta página(en inglés)]] en el conector de seis pines en el extremo izquierdo de la placa base como se muestra. Asegúrate de que consigues conectarlo bien. La conexión RTS (que debería tener color verde) va al extremo superior del conector etiquetado "GRN" en la placa base. El conector de tierra (de color negro) va al fondo, etiquetada "BLK".<br />
<br />
Comprueba que tienes un jumper ajustado al conector de 2-pin por C8 en la placa base justo a la derecha del conector de 6 pines que estas usando. Este es el jumper que permite a la placa que sea programada.<br />
<br />
Enchufa un cable USB en la toma USB-B, pero no conectes el otro extremo a tu computador aun.<br />
<br />
Comprueba la lista de conexiones en ''Tools->Serial Port'' y anótalas. Luego conecta el cable USB y comprueba la lista de nuevo - debe aparecer una nueva entrada (en Linux será algo como ''/dev/ttyUSB0'', y en Windows será como ''COM5''). Selecciona esa nueva entrada si no ha sido [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] seleccionada automáticamente por el software de Arduino - es la interfaz USB que acabas de conectar.<br />
<br />
A propósito - ahora el LED de Encendido de la placa base debería estar encendido. La placa base es alimentada por USB.<br />
<br />
Selecciona ''Upload to I/O Board'' (el pequeño cuadro con una flecha hacia la derecha). Después de unos pocos segundos el LED de debug en la placa base debería parpadear - esto significa que el programa se está cargando en la placa.<br />
<br />
Después de unos pocos segundos más el entorno de desarrollo Arduino debería decir ''Done uploading'' y el LED de debug debería reducirse a un pulso regular de unos 2 Hz. Esto significa que el programa RepRap está ejecutándose en la placa base.<br />
<br />
Si la carga no funcionó, desconecta el cable USB, espera un par de segundos, y conéctalo de nuevo. Luego (con la mano que no usas el ratón) mantén apretado el botón de RESET de la placa base. Pon el ratón sobre el botón ''Upload to I/O Board'', suelta el RESET, e inmediatamente haz click con el ratón.<br />
<br />
O haz click en ''Upload to I/O Board'' y luego mantén apretado el botón de reset hasta que veas el texto blanco en el botón del IDE de Arduino, entonces inmediatamente suelta el botón de reset, y espera para el ''Done uploading''... <br />
<br />
Para ver como verificar la placa base ya programada, sigue [[Testing_RepRap_Electronics#Testing_the_Motherboard |este enlace(en inglés)]].<br />
<br />
==Programando un controlador de extrusión==<br />
<br />
[[Image:extruder-programming.jpg|500px|right]]<br />
<br />
El procedimiento para este es muy similar al de programar la placa base.<br />
<br />
===Compilar===<br />
<br />
El programa en C++ que debe ser cargado en los controladores de extrusión está en el directorio ''mendel/firmware/FiveD_GCode/Extruder'' de la descarga. La última versión esta [http://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/viewvc/reprap/trunk/mendel/firmware/FiveD_GCode/Extruder/ aquí en el repositorio Subversion de RepRap], pero cuidado con esto - puede ser una versión de desarrollo inestable. La versión estable está localizada en [http://sourceforge.net/projects/reprap/ reprap-mendel-yyyymmdd.zip] que descargaste cuando instalaste el software anfitrión Reprap. [[Instalando RepRap en tu computador]]<br />
<br />
En tu directorio de descarga hay una archivo de configuración de la distribución llamado configuration.h.dist. Cópialo a un nuevo archivo llamado configuration.h. La razón para esta copia es que, cuando descargas una nueva versión de RepRap, puede que no quieras sobrescribir tu archivo de configuración personal.<br />
<br />
Carga el [http://arduino.cc Entorno de desarrollo Arduino] y carga el sketchbook ''mendel/firmware/FiveD_GCode/Extruder/Extruder.pde''. Tu nuevo archivo configuration.h debería aparecer como una de las pestañas.<br />
<br />
Haz click en esa pestaña y repasa el archivo. Es bastante pequeño. Los comentarios(en inglés) dan instrucciones de lo que hacer para configurar el firmware para tu instalación RepRap particular. Cuando lo hayas editado, selecciona ''File->Save''.<br />
<br />
Si estas usando un termistor como sensor de temperatura del extrusor deberías también mirar el archivo ''temperature.h''. Selecciona la tabla que corresponda a tu tersmistor. Si estas usando un termistor para el cual no hay una tabla estándar eso no es un problema. Hay un programa Python para generar tablas para cualquier termistor. El programa está en tus archivos RepRap en ''mendel/firmware/createTemperatureLookup.py''. [[Thermistor|Mira esta página para más detalle(en inglés)]].<br />
<br />
En el entorno de desarrollo Arduino selecciona ''Tools->Board->Arduino Diecimila or Duemilanove w/ ATmega 168'' luego selecciona ''Sketch->Verify/Compile''.<br />
<br />
El programa debería compilar sin errores.<br />
<br />
===Cargar===<br />
<br />
Enchufa el [[Mendel USB and power connector|cable USB<->serial que fabricaste en esta página(en inglés)]] en el conector de seis pines en el extremo izquierdo del controlador de extrusión como se muestra. Asegúrate de que consigues conectarlo bien. La conexión RTS (que debería tener color verde) va al extremo inferior del conector etiquetado "GRN/RTS" en el controlador de extrusión. El conector de tierra (de color negro) va en lo alto, etiquetado "BLK/GND".<br />
<br />
Enchufa un cable USB en la toma USB-B, pero no conectes el otro extremo a tu computador aun.<br />
<br />
Comprueba la lista de conexiones en ''Tools->Serial Port'' y anótalas. Luego conecta el cable USB y comprueba la lista de nuevo - debe aparecer una nueva entrada (en Linux será algo como ''/dev/ttyUSB0'', y en Windows será como ''COM5''). Selecciona esa nueva entrada si no ha sido seleccionada automáticamente por el software de Arduino - es la interfaz USB que acabas de conectar.<br />
<br />
A propósito - ahora el LED de Encendido del controlador debería estar encendido. El controlador de extrusión está alimentado por USB para programarlo, y se auto alimenta del suministro de 12 voltios cuando está en funcionamiento. Algunos de los otros LEDs se iluminarán también - esto está bien.<br />
<br />
Selecciona ''Upload to I/O Board'' (el pequeño cuadro con una flecha hacia la derecha). Después de unos pocos segundos el LED de debug en el controlador de extrusión debería parpadear - esto significa que el programa se está cargando en la placa.<br />
<br />
Después de unos pocos segundos más el entorno de desarrollo Arduino debería decir ''Done uploading'' y el LED de debug debería apagarse.<br />
<br />
Si la carga no funcionó, desconecta el cable USB, espera un par de segundos, y conéctalo de nuevo. Luego (con la mano que no usas el ratón) mantén apretado el botón de RESET del controlador de extrusión. Pon el ratón sobre el botón ''Upload to I/O Board'', suelta el RESET, e inmediatamente haz click con el ratón.<br />
<br />
Para ver como verificar el controlador de extrusión ya programado, sigue [[Testing_RepRap_Electronics#Testing_an_Extruder_Controller |este enlace(en inglés)]].<br />
<br />
==Véase también==<br />
<br />
La página [http://www.reprap.org/bin/view/Main/Generation3Firmware Firmware de 3ª generación(en inglés)].<br />
<br />
[[Category:How to make Mendel/es]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Extrusion_Code&diff=85115Extrusion Code2013-03-07T11:11:47Z<p>Ipinson: /* THIS IS CURRENTLY ONLY DRAFT OF AN IDEA */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Introduction =<br />
<br />
== THIS IS CURRENTLY ONLY DRAFT OF AN IDEA ==<br />
<br />
With worry I have watched the dichotomy and complexity growth in the reprap community on two fronts.<br />
<br />
First there is complexity in the skeiners/slicers, that have to take into account lot of machine-specific parameters,<br />
generating the code that is usable only once.<br />
<br />
Then there is complexity in the firmware, that have to calculate in real-time the constrained dynamic movement <br />
properties, applying look-ahead, acceleration/deceleration profiles and even extrusion advance calculations.<br />
<br />
So this all has made me think that the G-code, as it is currently, is not best suited to describe the <br />
intermediate output between [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] the slicer and the firmware.<br />
<br />
So here is rough outline of alternative intermediate output from slicer, something that would move more machine-specific information<br />
down in the tool chain, while keeping more semantically relevant information to aid extrusion. I believe that this would<br />
simplify both the slicer functionality and provide explicitly more information for firmware movement calculations, and possibly even<br />
reduce the need for heavy computations in the firmware. As a downside, it will create more additional processing steps.<br />
<br />
= Commands =<br />
<br />
== Overall structure ==<br />
<br />
The basic idea behind this command set was to maximize meaningful information, that is easy for a slicer to generate, and that will make it<br />
relatively simple to split up and translate into real machine movements. They do contain some optional redundant information, that might aid and simplify other components in the toolchain.<br />
<br />
All commands are packetized, falling into following "command" categories. Most of the flags are optional and specific to the command category or command itself, <br />
their identifiers are meant to be mnemonic in nature. Parameters denoted with upper case ASCII letters are essential semantical information, lowercase letters <br />
are for redundant information that can be stripped or (re)generated as needed by intermediate steps.<br />
<br />
At simplest level, the packet would consist of single line, it would start with command category identifier, and end with newline. <br />
Comments, in formatting similar to those in G-code could be used (semicolon to mark comment until end of line, parentheses for in-line comment).<br />
<br />
There could be some binary format that closely shares the extensibility and style of the textual format, so<br />
that the translation would be straightforward and simple.<br />
<br />
In case of need of packet transmission over serial line, there could be some line number/checksum algorithms available, but this is only important<br />
when post-processing steps are done in the firmware. Slicer should not generate line numbers or line checksum, but they would be added by the host program,<br />
responsible for transmission and retransmission of failed packets.<br />
<br />
The first byte/character in the packet will describe the command category.<br />
<br />
Number (optional for some categories) after the category character describes specific command type.<br />
<br />
== P: print commands: ==<br />
These will generally cause the printer to proceed through pre-defined, configurable routines,<br />
that the slicer does not necessarily have to worry about in detail - homing, heating up/down, wiping etc.<br />
Basically, they will be just a trigger certain macros.<br />
<br />
* P0 - declares start of print job (run predefined start command routine)<br />
** Parameters: N### - string, describing name of the job. in case of text packet format, the name can't contain space characters<br />
* P1 - declares end of print job (run predefined end command routine)<br />
<br />
=== Example: ===<br />
P0 Nvertex.stl ; start of print<br />
<br />
== L: layer definition ==<br />
These are generally just descriptors that allow movement commands to refer to the appropriate<br />
Z-height and extrusion parameters with just a single number, without having to specify all of them<br />
during each move. They should be provided any time after Z movement, before sending G commands<br />
<br />
Command codes: <br />
* L0 - raft layer<br />
* L1 - base layer<br />
* L2 - regular layer<br />
* L3 - partial layer/sublayer (e.g. for more fine-grained outlines)<br />
<br />
Parameters:<br />
* L## - layer absolute index<br />
* R## - layer relative index (raft-0, raft-1, ...)<br />
* Z### - z height<br />
* d### - layer thickness<br />
<br />
=== Example: ===<br />
L1 L0 Z0.38 d0.38 ; base layer L0, absolute height Z=0.38, thickness 0.38<br />
L2 L1 Z0.76 d0.38 ; regular layer L1, absolute height Z=0.76, thickness 0.38<br />
<br />
== G: movement commands ==<br />
These are bulk of the data.<br />
* movement type: <br />
** G0 - travel<br />
** G1 - stand-alone extruded filament<br />
** G2 - support structure (raft, support)<br />
** G3 - perimeter<br />
** G4 - loop<br />
** G5 - infill, inner shell layer infill<br />
** G6 - infill, outer shell layer infill<br />
** G7 - infill, diaphragm<br />
** G8 - pattern infill<br />
* X/Y: coordinates to move to<br />
** X### Y###<br />
* L/Z: layer reference (absolute index of the layer) or new Z coordinate<br />
** L### or Z###<br />
* B: overhang/bridge flags:<br />
** B0 - shrinking perimeter - perimeter for layer smaller than previous one (underhang)<br />
** B1 - lines up and fully supported underneath (vertical wall perimeter)<br />
** B2 - partially unsupported underneath (overhang) <br />
** B3 - partially supported underneath in multiple points (e.g. line infill, laying on multiple cross-points)<br />
** B4 - fully unsupported underneath (bridge)<br />
* A: "top" layer flags<br />
** A1 - will not provide support to above layers<br />
* C: perimeter curvature value<br />
** C### (units: degrees? sine of the degree? some other formula? based on the difference to the previous extruded segment direction)<br />
** - positive value: along positive outside curvature (e.g. outer shell on circular object)<br />
** - negative value: along negative outside curvature (e.g. inner hole)<br />
* M: deposition material ID (in case of multiple material extrusion)<br />
** M### (default=same as previous movement)<br />
* E: deposition rate volume / movement unit<br />
** E### (non-negative value, zero means travel without intended extrusion, default=same as previous movement)<br />
* d: distance (optional helper information, to reduce need <br />
** d### length of movement<br />
<br />
== C: configuration commands ==<br />
These are meant to set configuration parameters. Slicer does not output them, but they should <br />
probably be preloaded from configuration storage for the processor<br />
<br />
= Code processing in the toolchain =<br />
<br />
It is the responsibility of the slicer to generate this code. It should split the object into layers, generate movements, calculate <br />
volumetric extrusion, generate infill patterns, order, optimize and categorize the movement/extrusion command, to generate raft, skirt and support structures.<br />
<br />
This can be done in relatively machine non-specific manner, only knowing the nozzle diameter and basic properties of material(s).<br />
<br />
It is the responsibility of some kind of post-processor to generate segments of movement, look back and forward<br />
over several movements, calculate appropriate feed/extrusion rates and possibly temperatures, also perform <br />
offset calculations or switches between nozzles and materials. This is already based on parameters, specific to the machine and material(s).<br />
<br />
This processing could be implemented as separate step, in the host or in the firmware.<br />
The output of this processing stage is not specified here, but it could be in the form <br />
of G-code or the variant/extension of the same data format.<br />
This is roughly equivalent of the output of current slicers. <br />
(maybe we can modify the specification of this data format to incorporate everything needed for that)<br />
<br />
Second step of pre-processing involves temporal calculations, acceleration/deceleration, extrusion <br />
priming and retraction, including any advance calculation for extrusion axis (e.g. by splitting up movements).<br />
<br />
This functionality can be implemented in firmware or in the host as pre-processing step (in case<br />
mathematical calculations involved are too slow in the firmware)<br />
<br />
These split up movements should be combined in the firmware that supports at least look-ahead<br />
capabilities that allow movements along the same direction to continue with the current rate,<br />
without intermediate deceleration.<br />
<br />
= Example =<br />
P0 #1*36 ; start of print, including line number and checksum<br />
L1 L0 Z0.35 d0.35 #2*2E ; define base layer<br />
G0 L0 X50.0 Y50.0 #3*51 ; move into position<br />
G3 L0 X60.0 Y50.0 M1 E0.26 C1 d10.0 #4*0E ; outline, positive curvature, extrusion 0.26 mm^3/mm<br />
G3 L0 X60.0 Y60.0 M1 E0.26 C1 d10.0 #5*1E ; outline<br />
G3 L0 X50.0 Y60.0 M1 E0.26 C1 d10.0 #6*2F ; outline<br />
G3 L0 X50.0 Y50.5 M1 E0.26 C1 d9.5 #7*97 ; outline<br />
G4 L0 X50.5 Y50.5 M1 E0.25 d0.5 #8*00 ; additional shell<br />
G4 L0 X59.5 Y50.5 M1 E0.25 d9.0 #9*00 ; additional shell<br />
G4 L0 X59.5 Y59.5 M1 E0.25 d9.0 #10*00<br />
G4 L0 X50.5 Y59.5 M1 E0.25 d9.0 #11*00<br />
G4 L0 X50.5 Y51.0 M1 E0.25 d8.5 #12*00<br />
G6 ... ; fully filled infill for base layer<br />
...<br />
L2 L1 Z0.75 d0.4<br />
G0 L1 X50 Y50<br />
G3 L1 B1 C1 X60 Y50 M1 E0.11 d10 ; note B1: the line is additionally explicitly specified as not being an under/overhang<br />
G3 L1 B1 C1 X60 Y60 d10 ; note the omission of repeated M and E<br />
...<br />
G4 ... ; additional shell<br />
...<br />
G5 ... ; fully filled infill for inner layer<br />
...<br />
P1 ... ; end of print<br />
<br />
[[Category:Community suggestions]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRapPro_Multimaterials&diff=85114RepRapPro Multimaterials2013-03-07T11:11:37Z<p>Ipinson: /* Introduction */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RepRapPro_Mendel_Contents}}<br />
<br />
=Introduction=<br />
<br />
This page describes the steps you need to take to build the multi-material and multi-colour version of [http://reprappro.com RepRapPro Ltd]'s version of [[RepRapPro_Mendel|RepRap Mendel]].<br />
<br />
If you need the multi-colour/multi-materials slicer software, [[RepRapPro_Slicer|follow this link]].<br />
<br />
For the most part, the construction is the same as for the single-colour machine, and you should follow the [[RepRapPro_Mendel|instructions for that]] through to the end and get your machine working with a single colour/extruder before starting the work on this page [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga]. If you are upgrading an existing Mendel to colour, still read through the single-colour instructions - at various points there are extra tasks that you need to do for the colour upgrade. <font color=#008000>These sections are highlighted in green on the relevant pages.</font><br />
<br />
When you have followed the single-colour machine instructions through to the end, then start...<br />
<br />
=Step 1 - Installing the slave electronics=<br />
<br />
...here.<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Hardware''' <br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|rowspan="15"|[[File:reprappro-multi-materials-slave-controller-parts.jpg|300px]]<br />
|-<br />
|Slave controller board<br />
|1<br />
|-<br />
|10-way pin header<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|Printed PCB clips<br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|M3 nuts<br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|M3 washers<br />
|6<br />
|-<br />
|25mm M3 screws<br />
|3<br />
|-<br />
|3mm I.D. poly tube<br />
|15mm<br />
|-<br />
|Crimp shell connectors<br />
|6<br />
|-<br />
|3-way shells<br />
|2<br />
|-<br />
|3-way ribbon cable<br />
|700mm<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprappro-mendel-bed-ribbon-marking.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Remember to disconnect both the power and the USB before making any electrical changes to your RepRap.<br />
<br />
Run the tip of a felt pen along between two of the wires in the ribbon cable so you can tell which is which from either end. (This is a generic picture; the actual ribbon you want is 3 way.)<br />
<br />
If the 10-way header pins are not already soldered into their locations in your Melzi master and slave controllers:<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-multi-materials-10-way-header.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Solder them in now. You will find this easier if the circuit boards are not mounted on the machine.<br />
<br />
The slave controller is mounted in exactly the same way as the master controller, but on the opposite side of the machine. Mount it with the screw connectors at the back, and the USB connector at the front and the bottom.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-multi-materials-slave-mounted.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Take the insulating tape off the power wires and connect them to the slave controller. Make sure to get the polarity right.<br />
<br />
The Extruder 1 should already be wired into the master controller from when you got the machine working in single-colour mode.<br />
<br />
Wire the other two extruders to the slave controller. <br />
<br />
Extruder 2's motor goes to the X motor output of the slave, and its head goes to the slave's extruder heater and extruder thermistor connectors.<br />
<br />
Extruder 3's motor goes to the Y motor output of the slave, and its head goes to the slave's bed heater and bed thermistor connectors.<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-multi-materials-master-slave-wire.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Finally, put two three-way shell connectors on either end of a 660mm length of 3-way ribbon cable to connect the master controller to the slave:<br />
<br />
# Rx on the master goes to Tx on the slave,<br />
# Tx on the master goes to Rx on the slave, and<br />
# SCL on the master goes to SCL on the slave.<br />
<br />
Run the three wires across the bars at the front of the machine where no other wires run to minimise interference.<br />
<br />
You will get the neatest result if you make the wire slightly too long, connect one end, run it and cable-tie it round the frame, then cut it to length and fit the connector at the other end.<br />
<br />
'''Important:''' In the future, if you upgrade the firmware in either the master or the slave controller ([[RepRapPro_Mendel_maintenance|details of how here]]), you must first disconnect one end of this 3-way wire. Reconnect it when you have finished reloading the firmware.<br />
<br />
=Step 2 - Check=<br />
<br />
Use your multimeter to check that the resistance between the case of the SD card holder on the slave controller and the outer metal shell of the XLR power input plug at the back of the machine is 0 ohms.<br />
<br />
Check that the resistance between the + power input screw connection on the slave controller (the wire with no stripe) and the + power input screw connection on the master controller is 0 ohms.<br />
<br />
Measure the resistance between the two screws on the power connector of the slave. This may start low and then rise. (This is the capacitors in the circuit charging up with the tiny current from the meter.) It should level out at a few hundred ohms.<br />
<br />
Measure the resistance between the two screws on the bed power connector of the slave. This should be about 3 ohms.<br />
<br />
Measure the resistance between the two screws on the hot-end heater resistor connector of the slave. This should be about 3 ohms. <br />
<br />
Check the heated bed temperature sensor connector of the slave. The resistance should be about 10 kilohms. This is not just the resistance of the sensor. Other parts of the circuit on the controller board are in parallel with it.<br />
<br />
Check the hot-end temperature sensor connector of the slave. The resistance should be about 10 kilohms. This is not just the resistance of the sensor. Other parts of the circuit on the controller board are in parallel with it.<br />
<br />
=Step 3 - Test that everything is working=<br />
<br />
If you are upgrading an existing RepRapPro Mendel then you will need to upgrade its firmware in its master controller. [[RepRapPro_Mendel_maintenance|There are instructions here]]. If you have got a new Mendel together with the colour upgrade your new master controller should have the correct firmware already. Similarly a new slave controller will have its correct firmware.<br />
<br />
Plug in the power and USB, and turn your RepRap on.<br />
<br />
Run Pronterface and connect it to your RepRap.<br />
<br />
Move the axes by a few millimeters in the + direction to make sure that they are still all working, and turn on the bed and check that it starts to warm up. Turn the bed off again.<br />
<br />
Now home the X, Y, and Z axes, then raise Z by 10mm.<br />
<br />
In Pronterface's "Send" window (bottom right) that allows you to transmit G Codes directly to your RepRap type in and send the following three commands:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 S100 R80<br />
G10 P1 X-34 Y4 Z0 S100 R80<br />
G10 P2 X-11 Y51 Z0 S100 R80<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Nothing should happen.<br />
<br />
The P numbers are the numbers of each extruder. The G10 command sets distance offsets in X, Y and Z for the numbered extruder and the working (S) and standby (R) temperatures it will use.<br />
<br />
None of these settings have any effect until the given extruder is selected.<br />
<br />
Move X and Y to (100, 100).<br />
<br />
Select the third extruder (numbering starts at 0):<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
T2<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
(The "T" stands for "tool" - a G Code standard.) You should see its temperature start to rise. When it reaches its target temperature the X and Y axes will move to place it roughly where Extruder 0 was (that was the X-11 Y51 in the G10 command).<br />
<br />
Select T1 and the same should happen.<br />
<br />
Select T0 and the same should happen.<br />
<br />
Send an M0 (switch motors and heaters off until they get another request) command.<br />
<br />
Repeat the input of the G10 codes above with higher temperatures:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 S205 R160<br />
G10 P1 X-34 Y4 Z0 S205 R160<br />
G10 P2 X-11 Y51 Z0 S205 R160<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Select "Motors Off" (top left in Pronterface).<br />
<br />
Insert three different coloured filaments into the three extruder drives and feed them forward by hand turning the big gears until they are just visible in the PTFE tubes that lead to the hot ends.<br />
<br />
Select each extruder in turn using the T commands described above, wait till it gets to temperature, and then drive the filament forward down the PTFE tube until it enters the nozzle (you can do this quite fast - say at 800 mm/min - but make sure you don't hit the hot end at that speed). Select a slower speed (200 mm/min for an 0.5mm nozzle; 80 mm/min for an 0.3mm nozzle) and drive the filament forward to extrude it and check that extrusion is working.<br />
<br />
At the end of each test of each extruder, reverse a 5mm length of filament to reduce the pressure in its hot end (it's a good idea to get into a habit of doing this whenever you test an extruder by hand).<br />
<br />
Find a pair of tweezers or a fine pair of needle-nosed pliers.<br />
<br />
Send an M0 command and watch the temperatures drop. When they get to around 120 <sup>o</sup>C any plastic still on the ends of the nozzles will be sticky enough to pull it all away in one piece with the tweezers.<br />
<br />
Carefully clean the nozzles of any plastic on their outsides.<br />
<br />
Send the carriage and bed to X=100mm, Y=100mm. Then zero Z.<br />
<br />
You should have left the second and third nozzles very slightly higher than the first on the X carriage when you put the hot ends on it. Now adjust the heights of the second and third nozzles so that they are at the same level above the glass as the first. <br />
<br />
<br />
=Step 4 - Your first multi-colour print!=<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-multi-materials-example-print-2.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Download the colour test object three-colour-testblock.rfo from our [https://github.com/reprappro/Mendel/tree/master/Mult-material/Print-mendel-mult-material Github repository here]. Don't worry if your test colour filaments are not white, red and green as in the picture above. You will still be able to print it in whatever three colours you have.<br />
<br />
Then go to the [[RepRapPro Slicer]] page to find out how to slice it to G Codes and then print it, but before you do read the next section on registration.<br />
<br />
=Step 5 - Registration=<br />
<br />
[[File:reprappro-multi-materials-registration.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Stop your print after it has finished the first layer (press the reset buttons on the master and slave controllers, then move the X carriage to one side by hand to stop the nozzle sticking to the print).<br />
<br />
The result will probably look something like the above picture. The rectangle at the front is the shield structure the software builds to keep the nozzles clean (which is why it is so dirty).<br />
<br />
But as you can see, also the heads are not quite in registration. Use digital callipers to measure the X and Y errors (dx and dy) for each colour (purple and red here) relative to the plastic from Extruder 0 in the machine (white here).<br />
<br />
When you first ran the slicer software it will have created a sub-directory in your home directory called '''.reprap''' (you will have to enable the viewing of hidden files to see it). In that directory there is another called '''Mendel-0.5mm''' (colour Mendel with 0.5mm nozzles). And in that directory there is a file called '''prologue.gcode''' that looks like this:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
M110<br />
G21<br />
G90<br />
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 S205.0 R140.0<br />
G10 P1 X-33.7 Y3.2 Z0 S205.0 R140.0<br />
G10 P2 X-12.6 Y49.4 Z0 S205.0 R140.0<br />
M83<br />
G92 E0<br />
G1 Z5 F200<br />
G28 X0<br />
G28 Y0<br />
G1 X100.0 Y100.0 F15000.0<br />
G28 Z0<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
This file is automatically added at the start of each print by the slicer program, and it sets the machine up. You can find out what all the [[G-code|G Codes mean here]], but for the moment we are only concerned with the '''G10''' lines.<br />
<br />
These lines set the working (205<sup>o</sup>C) and standby (140<sup>o</sup>C) temperatures for each extruder, and its X, Y and Z offsets from Extruder 0 (which you will see has 0 offsets in the file).<br />
<br />
If Extruder 0's offsets are 0 and Extruder 0 is the currently active extruder, the precise meaning of the X, Y (and Z) values is: '''"move this extruder by this much to place it where Extruder 0 is"'''. As you can see, in the picture the red extruder (Extruder 2) is too far in +X and too far in +Y. <br />
<br />
This means that the dx and dy values you measured have to be subtracted from the X and Y values on the '''G10 P2''' line.<br />
<br />
Open the file '''prologue.gcode''' using a text editor and make the changes.<br />
<br />
You should never have to change the Z values from 0, incidentally. If you do the heads will collide with your print. (They are just there for completeness.) You should always adjust the Z offsets by using the nuts on the screws on the X carriage.</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Air_2&diff=85113Air 22013-03-07T11:11:23Z<p>Ipinson: /* Improvements of Air 2 frame regarding Air 1 */</p>
<hr />
<div><div class="LanguageLinks"><br />
<table width="100%" style="clear: both; border-collapse: collapse; padding: 0; margin: 0; font-size: 130%;"><br />
<tr valign="top" style="background: #ffffff"><br />
<!--td style="width: 25px; padding-left: 0.5em;"></td><br />
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</td></tr></table></div><br />
<br />
<noinclude><br />
[[Category:Template]]<br />
</noinclude><br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Air 2 - Iteration 2<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Air2.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Simplified Prusa<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = Mecano<br />
|reprap = Prusa, Mendel<br />
|categories = <br />
|cadModel = [[File:Prusa Air 2.dxf]]<br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==NOTE==<br />
This page illustrates how to mount the Air 2 (by Mecano) using the parts developed (by Prusa) for the Prusa i2.<br />
Linear bearings are used for the Y Axis and T2.5 belts and aluminium pulleys for the motion transmission.<br />
<br />
= Introduction by - Mecano =<br />
<br />
Since I discovered the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page RepRap project] I was surprised by the sheer amount of knowledge that could be stored (and organised) by an on-line community of aficionados. I was most impressed to see so ground shaking an invention take root and grow through the collaboration of specialists dispersed all around the world from varied fields such as mechanics, electronics & computers facilitated by this incredible network.<br />
<br />
[http://josefprusa.cz/pages/english Josef Prusa] revolutionised the mechanical design of this device when he dramatically simplified the construction of the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel RepRap Mendel]. The result of his efforts, the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa Prusa], has become a standard in RepRap building. This achievement also made it much easier for any person to build a 3D printer (provided they are prepared to a little reading and learning along the way).<br />
<br />
The "Air" drinks from this spirit and attempts to add a new twist to the construction of a 3D printer. <br />
<br />
The design is based on three basic principles:<br />
<br />
1) Simplification of the assembly process([http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KISS_principle KISS principle]).<br />
<br />
2) Designing the parts in the cheapest way but still meet the requirements.<br />
<br />
3) Improving the aesthetics by introducing a little elegance and beauty to the finished item. <br />
<br />
<br />
Within these guidelines, the use of RP parts has been reduced for "commercial" pieces but nonetheless bearing in mind that they are readily available worldwide so any anyone can use them if they so wish.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Specifications==<br />
*Printed Parts: See below<br />
*Non-Printed Parts: See below<br />
*Printing Size: 190x180x100<br />
*Material Cost: Around 500 Eur.<br />
*Cost: Around 800 Eur <br />
*Precision: Same as Prusa.<br />
*Speed: Succeeded printings at 70 mm/sec printing and 120 mm/sec travelling.<br />
<br />
= Air Frame Replacement =<br />
<br />
<br />
A) Most of the frame rods and RP pieces have been replaced by <b>"four pieces of 6mm acrylic"</b>. These are dimensioned following the exact dimensions of the original Prusa design. So for all intents and purposes this machine works as a Prusa with all sizing, trips, electronics, firmware etc. of a Prusa.<br />
<br />
[[File:PrusaSolid.png|300px]] [[File:PrusaAirPerfil.png|300px]]<br />
<br />
B) When viewed from the side, one of the sides of the typical Mendel triangle has been removed, resulting in a more accessible work area.<br />
<br />
C) The holes for the rods have been changed (slotted) so that the rods can be removed without having to completely unscrew the nuts.<br />
<br />
[[File:DetalleVarillas.png|300px]]<br />
<br />
D) With the Y axis you can choose to use a traditional Y-axis or mount a variation on the theme: [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11657 Y-axis with integrated heated platform] as shown in [http://www.thingiverse.com/ thingiverse].<br />
<br />
The X and Z axis have not changed, they are exactly the same as that of a Mendel Prusa.<br />
<br />
[[File:IsoHidenUp.PNG|400px]]<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
= Improvements of Air 2 frame regarding Air 1 =<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Increased Print Volume</b><br />
<br />
The available volume for printing was increased through:<br />
<br />
- Lateral separation - (from 234mm to 250 mm)<br />
<br />
- Lowering of the heated print bed - down by 10mm<br />
<br />
These small (but nonetheless significant) changes resulted in a total available print cube of 190mm X 190mm X 100mm. Naturally, the actual exact [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] volume available for printing will ultimately depend on the height of your heated bed and the lowermost point of your Hot End.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b> Improved Rigidity</b><br />
<br />
- The transparent acrylic material for the frame was increased in thickness to 6mm.<br />
<br />
- A cross "bearer" was introduced to define the frame thereby increasing rigidity and removing possible inaccuracies in setting the horizontal separation between the vertical supports.<br />
<br />
- Washers(DIN9021)introduced at the fixing points between rods and the Acrylic frame.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b> Desing made considering the wiring:</b><br />
<br />
Design improved with a view to neatening up the cabling.<br />
<br />
- Control electronics is expected to go on the left hand side (board horizontally oriented to receive cabling from above) <br />
<br />
- Acrylic supports had holes introduced to allow cabling to be "loomed" through.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Images of current design:</b><br />
<br />
[[File:Prusa Air 2 Left 01.png|270px]][[File:Prusa Air 2 Front 01.png|270px]][[File:Prusa Air 2 Plan 01.png|270px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Angle brackets for assembly:</b><br />
<br />
The brackets used to fix the horizontal motor support to the new back "bearer" were purchased at the local hardware store. However these could easily be made out of ABS. The design to be printed can be found at http://www.thingiverse.com/download:46665<br />
<br />
[[File:DSC02221.JPG|210px]]<br />
<br />
= Bill Of Materials =<br />
<br />
Here are all the parts needed to build the printer.<br />
<br />
== Printed Parts ==<br />
<br />
=== Frame and Structure ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Piece<br />
! scope="col" | stl file<br />
! scope="col" | Description<br />
! scope="col" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comment<br />
<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:Top_bar_clamp.png|80px]] || [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:66512 stl] || GliderStop || 2 || Used to fix the z smooth rod to the the acrylic frame <br />
|-<br />
| [[File:Squad.png|80px]] || [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:46665 stl] || Squad || 3 || Used to fix the acrylic frame<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:PI2-bar-clamp.png|80px]] || [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/blob/master/metric-prusa/bar-clamp.stl stl] || U-clamp || 6 || Clamps used to pin smooth bars to threaded rod<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:PI2-belt-clamp.png|80px]] || [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/blob/master/metric-prusa/belt-clamp.stl stl] || Belt Clamp || 4 || Clamps to close the belt loops<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:PI2-belt-camp-nut-holder.png|80px]] || [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/blob/master/metric-prusa/belt-clamp-nut-holder.stl stl] || Belt Clamp || 2 || Belt Clamp nut Holder.<br />
|-<br />
<br />
| [[File:PI2-endstop.png|80px]] || [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/blob/master/metric-prusa/endstop-holder.stl stl] || Endstop Holder || 3 || Support for endstop <br />
|-<br />
| [[File:Xend_idler.png|80px]] || [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:59469 stl] || X End Idler || 1 || X-Axis idler - opposite end of motor support. (Jonas Kuehling): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18384 . Prusa i2 does not work because the holes for the rods are blind.<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:x_end_motor.png|80px]] || [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:59468 stl]|| X End Motor || 1 || X-Axis motor support. (Jonas Kuehling): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18384 . Prusa i2 does not work because the holes for the rods are blind.<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:Ybrac-t.png|80px]] || [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/blob/master/metric-prusa/ybrac-t.stl stl]|| Y Motor Bracket || 1 || Y-Axis motor bracket<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:PI2-coupling.png|80px]] || [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/blob/master/metric-prusa/coupling.stl stl]|| Z couplings || 2 || <br />
|-<br />
| [[File:PI2-x-carriage.png|80px]] || [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/blob/master/metric-prusa/x-carriage.stl stl]|| LM8UU X carriage. || 1 || '''See Note below''' Reinforced Alternative (Jonas Kuehling): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18657 <br />
|-<br />
<br />
| [[File:Y-bushing.png|80px]] || [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/blob/master/metric-prusa/y-bushing.stl stl]|| Y Bushing || 4 || Bushings for holding the lm8uu linear bearings - Reinforced Alternative (Jonas Kuehling): http://www.thingiverse.com/download:53948<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''Note''': Instead of using the printed support for the heated bed Mecano has developed for the Air the following part: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11657<br />
<br />
<br />
===== Extruder (by Jonas Kuehling) =====<br />
<br />
It can be found here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379<br />
<br />
== Rods and screws ==<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Threaded rods'''<br />
<br />
The threaded rods can be be steel(zinc plated) or stainless.<br />
<br />
Diameter M8 <br />
<br />
Lengths required are:<br />
4 x 285 mm<br />
2 x 210 mm<br />
1 x 430 mm<br />
<br />
If you cut them from 1 meter rods you will need two rods<br />
The best way to cut these is:<br />
<br />
Rod 1: 285 - 285 - 430 ========> Total 1000 mm<br />
<br />
Rod 2: 285 - 285 - 210 - 210 ===> Total 990 mm<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Smooth Rods'''<br />
<br />
The smooth rods should be stainless steel.<br />
<br />
Diameter M8 <br />
<br />
Ideally you should use calibrated rounds. These have very tight dimensional tolerances (7.97 - 8 mm)<br />
<br />
Lengths required are:<br />
4 x 410 mm<br />
2 x 345 mm<br />
<br />
The total legth would be about 2.35 m. The dimensions may be the same as those of Prusa but some have been slightly changed to minimize the number of different pieces.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Screws'''<br />
<br />
Again I stress that this includes the hardware necessary for the printer without including the extruder / X carriage or Y axis platform pieces.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" | Set<br />
! scope="col" | DIN<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | For:<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| 43 || M8 nuts || DIN934 || For rods<br />
|-<br />
|40|| M8 washers || DIN125 || For rods <br />
|-<br />
|1 || M8x35 screw || DIN933 || Axis belt X carriage <br />
|-<br />
| || || || <br />
|-<br />
| 8 || M3x10 screws with nut || DIN912 || To fix X-Axis guides<br />
|-<br />
| 16 || M3x10 with washer || DIN912 || To fix the 4 motors<br />
|-<br />
| 7 || M3x20 screws with nut and double washer || DIN912 || Z couplings and Endstop Holders<br />
|-<br />
| || || ||<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Screws DIN 912 are Allen type which makes installation much easier.<br />
<br />
Finally you will need to add:<br />
<br />
3 x 608ZZ bearings ( + 3 for the extruder)<br />
<br />
Belts T2.5 840 and 900 mm long and 5 mm wide and T2.5 pulleys<br />
<br />
= Building Photographs =<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Pruaair2_1.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_2.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_3.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_4.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_5.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_6.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_7.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_8.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_9.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_10.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_11.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_12.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_13.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_14.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_15.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_16.JPG<br />
File:Pruaair2_17.JPG<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= They made one =<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Clone-56-la-cosa.jpg|La Cosa by Veimox<br />
File:PrusaAir2 gandlaf.JPG|Gandalf the White by avalero<br />
File:PrusaAir2.JPG|Gandalf the White by avalero<br />
File:PrusaAir2_wendy2.JPG|Wendy by Nicuma<br />
File:PrusaAir2_wendy1.JPG|Wendy by Nicuma<br />
File:PrusaAir2_Marvin.JPG|Marvin by Maik<br />
</gallery></div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=KlickiBunti&diff=85112KlickiBunti2013-03-07T11:11:10Z<p>Ipinson: /* Which Shop? */</p>
<hr />
<div>Some people are simply too stupid and/or too lazy to go through this wiki for setting up their RepRap. I call them "KlickiBunti" users, because their knowledge usually ends apruptly after how to klick a button on a colorful screen. So please, KlickiBunti users, go away, RepRap isn't made for you. RepRap is for experts, only!<br />
<br />
No?<br />
<br />
Oh, nobody would admit to be a KlickiBunti user, of course ... so ... let's rephrase ...<br />
<br />
This page may be helpful for those who are just overwhelmed by the vast number of options RepRap offers. Dozens of different machine designs, more than ten different electronics sets, and not so much time to explore them all. After all, knowledge assembles as soon as one gets started.<br />
<br />
So, let's see how to get started failsafe, and quickly.<br />
<br />
=Which Shop?=<br />
<br />
The times when newbies were recommended to build a [[RepStrap]], because RepStraps can be built without printed parts, are gone. These days, a plentitude of shops and Entrepeneurs exists, so you can get printed parts quickly and at a good price.<br />
<br />
While bigger shops usually offer "complete kits", they often have some tendency to become independent from the RepRap project and offer solutions which work only together with their other parts. So, smaller shops aren't the worst choice, are more flexible and the closer their relationship to [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] the RepRap project is, the more independence you get.<br />
<br />
Other than that, it doesn't matter where you buy parts. Pick (a) convenient one(s) from the [[Mendel Buyers Guide | Mendel Buyer's Guide]] or the [http://forums.reprap.org/index.php?93 RepRap forum's for sale section]. Many RepRap wiki pages also contain links where to get the parts required for that particular project.<br />
<br />
Oh, and don't be surprised if you sometimes see quirks around this area. As money is involved, ... you guess it.<br />
<br />
=Mechanics=<br />
<br />
The currently easiest to build and best documented model is the [[Prusa | Prusa Mendel]]. Unless you have special interests, start with this one.<br />
<br />
The interesting part on RepRap is, any machine model is capable of building all required parts for the other models. So, even if you'd regret your choice later, you'd simply fire up your Prusa and build parts for the others. Then swap stepper motors and electronics over to the new one, and you're set.<br />
<br />
For a more complete list of available models, see [[RepRap Options]].<br />
<br />
=Electronics=<br />
<br />
First of all, all electronics here are equal enough to be interchangeable. They all run an AVR ATmega processor as CPU, they all can drive bipolar stepper motors all provide at least 1/8 microstepping and they all run the same firmwares ( = controller software).<br />
<br />
Also, all electronics sets fit to all RepRap models. Even the Prusa with it's five stepper motors requires only four stepper motor drivers.<br />
<br />
So the choice is tough and mostly depends on your personal preferences.<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
!|Board<br />
!|Speed (MHz)<br />
!|Microstepping<br />
!|Extruders<br />
!|Heated bed support<br />
!|Available for DIY<br />
|-<br />
|[[Generation 6 Electronics]]<br />
|16<br />
|1/8<br />
|1<br />
|Limited<br />
|SMD soldering<br />
|-<br />
|[[Generation 7 Electronics]]<br />
|16 and 20<br />
|1/16<br />
|1<br />
|Up to 15 amps<br />
|board & soldering<br />
|-<br />
|[[RAMPS]]<br />
|16<br />
|1/16<br />
|2<br />
|Up to 11 amps<br />
|soldering<br />
|-<br />
|[[Sanguinololu]]<br />
|16<br />
|1/16<br />
|1<br />
|Up to 11 amps<br />
|soldering<br />
|-<br />
|[[Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB]]<br />
|16<br />
|1/16<br />
|2<br />
|Up to 5 amps<br />
|pre-assembled + tested<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Generation 6 Electronics]] is more or less an industry product which claims to be plug-and-play. While plug-and-play can obviously work for one specific machine setup only - in this case the Mendel offered by the same vendor, of course - it gets you started with other machines as well.<br />
<br />
[[RAMPS]] is a good choice if you already own an Arduino. Because RAMPS delivers just the RepRap specific part in form of a stackable board.<br />
<br />
[[Sanguinololu]] is the most compact one. As industry fabricated board space is costly, it's not the most flexible one, but affordable. <br />
<br />
[[Generation 7 Electronics]] is the most replicatable one. It's ideal for do-it-yourself-ers and modders, but can also be purchased as kits.<br />
<br />
[[Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB|Ultimaker electronics]] is feature-rich, similar to RAMPS, sold readily manufactured, similar to Gen6.<br />
<br />
Price comparisons require some attention, as some kits have the parts for barely running the ATmega only, other kits also include the required heatsinks and the connectors required for assembling the cables. All of them require customizing the firmware, so there's no plug-and-play. The more you dream of a plug-and-play printer, the earlier go into the list, the more you like doing things yourself, the later go into the list.<br />
<br />
For the success of your new RepRap it doesn't matter which one to get here, as long as you get one.<br />
<br />
=Extruder=<br />
<br />
<br />
=Software=<br />
<br />
Here it gets more interesting. Like with the other parts, a plentitude of software pieces exists. The art is to find a set which works well together.<br />
<br />
==How is that supposed to work?==<br />
<br />
As always, software keeps the brain of all that stuff. We have a geometry description on one side and a machine capable of moving a tool head on the other end. What are the steps to get from here to there?<br />
<br />
# In your favourite geometry creation application, export an STL file. Luckily, almost all applications can do that.<br />
# Before doing that, make sure the orientation is right. It matters which part of the geometry is on top and which is at bottom, so turn your part until it's right. For example, you want to avoid overhangs.<br />
# That done, compile G-code. Here you have to tell the G-code compiler what your machine can do, and what not. How big your nozzle is and what speeds your machine can achieve. This process is complex behind the scenes, so prepare to try different settings, assembling experience.<br />
# Load that G-code with a G-code sender application and send it to the machine.<br />
# Watch the machine moving, building your part.<br />
<br />
... to be followed ...<br />
<br />
=Machine Calibration=<br />
<br />
[[Calibration]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:RepRap machines| ]]<br />
[[Category:Community]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=SNAPComms&diff=85111SNAPComms2013-03-07T11:10:44Z<p>Ipinson: /* Overview */</p>
<hr />
<div>= RepRap SNAP Protocol Documentation =<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
This is an implementation of the [http://www.hth.com/snap/ SNAP Protocol] in a ring network.<br />
<br />
In a RepRap, all of the electronics are comprised of fairly independent<br />
modules. In order for the modules to co-operate and communicate there<br />
is a network connecting each module and also connecting to the host PC.<br />
The SNAP protocol is a simple, general purpose network protocol to provide a simple high<br />
level interface to the network communications. The idea is that the<br />
interface is abstract enough so that if we change the underlying network<br />
architecture at some point in the future, the library can be swapped and<br />
the rest of the software in each module will remain unchanged. More<br />
specifically, it currently implements a ring topology packet based<br />
network and is used to send simple small packets between the devices on<br />
the network. There are plans in the future to possibly change this to a<br />
more efficient bus topology, but that's probably some time away.<br />
<br />
If you are looking for information about the specific commands, see the [[Modules|SNAP Command Documentation]].<br />
<br />
== Protocol Description ==<br />
<br />
This protocol is based upon the idea of a token ring network. This is not really a true token ring in that<br />
there is no token frame and the procedure for ring insertion etc.<br />
is trivial -- it is however a network with ring topology. This network can be as simple as a 2 node network with one device and one 'master' or 'host' sending commands.<br />
<br />
=== Overview ===<br />
<br />
A receive buffer accepts payload data as it arrives. Upon<br />
completion, a global flag is set that acts as a lock to prevent<br />
further receives occurring until the lock is removed. If a receive<br />
does occur, but it is for somebody else, it is passed onto the next<br />
node in the loop. If the receive is for ourself then we fail and<br />
NAK the packet so that it will be re-sent at a time we can<br />
hopefully act on it.<br />
<br />
The lock flag also indicates to the main loop that data is awaiting<br />
and the main loop is responsible for calling any processing on the<br />
data. It is not called directly by the interrupt handler to prevent re-entrancy<br />
problems. The act of [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] receiving the byte will wake the CPU and<br />
allow it to check for the present of the lock. After processing is<br />
complete it may sleep if it wishes. It will be woken after every<br />
byte is received but can just repeatedly sleep again if it likes.<br />
<br />
The main loop that is acting on the lock flag must process the<br />
command and send any necessary data. It may also wait for an ACK<br />
or NAK before finally removing the lock and allowing further<br />
receives.<br />
<br />
When sending any packet (including ACK or NAK packets), a timeout<br />
is started. If the timeout expires, the response is considered to<br />
be a NAK and the ACK/NAK is resent. The timeout should be generous<br />
enough to allow for full ring propagation with worst-case delays.<br />
If the packets comes back to the sender, it is also treated as a<br />
NAK. An error counter should limit the number of re-sends before<br />
dropping the packet and returning an error.<br />
<br />
When data is received, only the payload is available to the main<br />
loop. A copy of the source address is also saved until the lock is<br />
released. This allows replies to be sent regardless of other<br />
packets received or forwarded during processing.<br />
<br />
For the moment, data packets will not have ACK/NAK piggybacked<br />
with them and each will be sent separately. This is because<br />
ACKs are automatically and immediately sent by the packet receiving routines<br />
before a response is even computed.<br />
<br />
'''TODO:''' NAKing a packet while busy should ideally send a special NAK<br />
that indicates busy as opposed to failed CRC, etc. This would allow<br />
a small pause before re-sending, rather than resending immediately<br />
and probably causing the same problem again.<br />
<br />
When we get a packet not destined for us or with headers we don't<br />
understand, we just pass them on. In theory, a corrupt packet<br />
could therefore just be passed on by everybody, forever. To get<br />
around this we could buffer the packet and check the CRC, then only<br />
send it on if all is well. However in doing so we greatly increase<br />
the latency. To prevent the possible long-term buildup of rogue<br />
packets it is assumed that there is a node in the ring (such as a<br />
more powerful PC) that will check things more thoroughly and mop up<br />
any problem packets that are cycling the network. By only having<br />
one such node in the network, the latency effects are minimised.<br />
<br />
'''TODO:''' An enhancement that may be needed is something to deal with<br />
too much data arriving. eg. if fully occupied with incoming data<br />
and a local transmit is occasionally needed, eventually<br />
transmitting will block while waiting for the TSR to become free<br />
(it won't be able to contain all the outgoing data). This will<br />
mean received data is lost and the packet will become corrupted.<br />
However at least the next packet will also become corrupted. This<br />
situation should be detected and if anything arrives during<br />
blocking transmits, they should be cleanly dropped up until the<br />
packet ending. This improvement just decreases the number of lost<br />
packets, but is a little complex so it may or may not be worth<br />
doing. Also in most cases for a local transmit to be needed, there<br />
would also be a command received, which would be consumed leaving<br />
more buffer space. Also responses from slave devices are not<br />
expected to overwhelm the network so badly.<br />
<br />
=== Problems with SNAP: ===<br />
<br />
Error correction is optional. That means the flag itself could be<br />
corrupted and no error correction will take place. It should<br />
be mandatory and cover the header.<br />
<br />
The destination address should occur sooner so packets can be<br />
passed on in the network as soon as possible to decrease latency (only<br />
relevant in a token ring situation).<br />
<br />
The lengths are not continuous up to the sizes we want.<br />
<br />
A lot of the other stuff is superfluous.<br />
<br />
An ARP protocol like SMBus has might be nice.<br />
<br />
=== Byte Level Descriptions ===<br />
<br />
All of these are discussed in greater detail in [http://www.hth.com/filelibrary/pdffiles/snap.pdf this PDF document].<br />
<br />
==== Byte 0: Synchronization Byte (SYNC) ====<br />
<br />
This byte is simply the start of our packet. It is a special value that means its the start of a SNAP packet. The first byte received is compared to this, and if it matches the protocol knows to process the next bytes as heater bytes. The values in different formats are listed below.<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
| '''Value''' || '''Format''' <br />
|-<br />
| 0x54 || Hexadecimal <br />
|-<br />
| 84 || Decimal <br />
|-<br />
| 01010100 || Binary <br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==== Byte 1: Header Definition Byte #2 (HDB2) ====<br />
<br />
This byte is used to describe the protocol specific information of the packet being sent. Currently not much of this is implemented by our SNAP library, but you do need to send the proper value. The tables below will tell the name of each bit and what each of the bits means.:<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
| '''7* || *6''' || '''5* || *4''' || '''3* || *2''' || '''1* || *0''' <br />
|-<br />
| DAB || DAB || SAB || SAB || PFB || PFB || ACK || ACK <br />
<br />
|-<br />
| '''Bit(s)''' || '''Meaning''' <br />
|-<br />
| DAB || Length of the Destination Address Bytes, in Binary. RepRap currently only accepts destinations of 1 byte length <br />
|-<br />
| SAB || Length of the Source Address Bytes, in Binary. RepRap currently only accepts source addresses of 1 byte length <br />
|-<br />
| PFB || Length of Protocol Flag Bytes. RepRap does not accept any protocol flag bytes, so this must be set to 00 <br />
|-<br />
| ACK || ACK / NAK flags. See the protocol documentation pdf for more information. RepRap fully supports these flags <br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==== Byte 2: Header Definition Byte #2 (HDB1) ====<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
| '''7* || *6''' || '''5* || *4''' || '''3* || *2''' || '''1* || *0''' <br />
|-<br />
| CMD || EDM || EDM || EDM || NDB || NDB || NDB || NDB <br />
<br />
|-<br />
| '''Bit(s)''' || '''Meaning''' <br />
|-<br />
| CMD || Command Mode Bit. Not implemented by RepRap and should be set to 0 <br />
|-<br />
| EDM || Error detection mode. See PDF for a full description. Currently RepRap only implements 8-bit CRC. this should be set to 011 <br />
|-<br />
| NDB || Number of Data Bytes. See PDF for a full description. This is a non-linear value, but we use it that way. Currently RepRap only accepts a maximum of 8 bytes (hopefully 16 soon), and this number is the length in binary. <br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==== Byte 3: Destination Address Byte (DAB) ====<br />
<br />
This byte contains the address of the intended recipient of the packet. It is a binary number from 0-255.<br />
<br />
==== Byte 4: Source Address Byte (SAB) ====<br />
<br />
This byte contains the address of the sender of the packet. It is a binary number from 0-255.<br />
<br />
==== Byte 5-?: Data Bytes ====<br />
<br />
These bytes are the actual payload and data of the packet. The number of bytes is contained in the NDB in the HDB1 packet and must match exactly.<br />
<br />
==== Last Byte: Checksum (CRC) ====<br />
<br />
This byte contains the checksum as calculated by the mode specified in EDM.<br />
<br />
== Protocol Implementation ==<br />
<br />
=== PIC Implementation ===<br />
<br />
'''This may be out of date... someone familiar with the PIC info want to update it?'''<br />
<br />
[[Subversion|Subversion]] Location: /reprap/firmware<br />
<br />
Status: Working<br />
<br />
Work to be done:<br />
* Timeouts and re-sends are not quite there.<br />
<br />
Most of the functionality is encapsulated in serial_inc.c. Only a few lines of code are necessary to make use of the serial routines. A simple example is below (most of the code is just processor initialisation etc).<br />
<br />
==== General API ====<br />
<br />
- Main loop inspects processingLock flag. If set, it actions the data<br />
in buffer.<br />
<br />
- A reply is optionally constructed by calling sendReply. This uses<br />
the saved source address to send appropriate header bytes. Nothing<br />
much happens here because the header can't be constructed until<br />
the packet is complete (length is unknown).<br />
<br />
- Packet payload is sent by repeatedly calling sendDataByte<br />
<br />
- The sending is completed by calling endMessage, which will<br />
send the actual packet by constructing a header, length, body and<br />
CRC for the message.<br />
<br />
- awaitDelivery is called to wait for a response. A duplicate of<br />
the entire packet is kept in an additional buffer so that if a NAK<br />
arrives the same data can be re-sent without bothering the client.<br />
This method should do very little as the handling of this is<br />
interrupt driven. If called, it will block until the delivery is<br />
complete and return fail/success.<br />
<br />
- deliveryStatus returns the same information as awaitDelivery<br />
(except tristate values indicating still sending, success,<br />
failure). This does not block however.<br />
<br />
- When sending a new message rather than a reply, the sendMessage<br />
function is called with the destination address.<br />
<br />
- Call releaseLock to indicate processing is complete amd allow<br />
any necessary cleanups. If no ACK is received yet, this<br />
will block until it arrives. If endMessage is not called,<br />
the packet is dropped.<br />
<br />
In order for the routines to work the ISR must call the interrupt<br />
handler serialInterruptHandler()<br />
<br />
<br />
====Receiving a message: ====<br />
<br />
'''Example'''<br />
<nowiki><br />
if (processingLock) {<br />
printf("Received command %d", buffer[0]);<br />
releaseLock();<br />
}<br />
</nowiki><br />
<br />
Receiving is typically performed in the main idle loop. The reception itself is completely automatic and happens in the background, driven by the RS-232 interrupts. When a valid packet for the device is received it is stored in a packet buffer and the buffer is locked. When this happens, the global boolean value '''processingLock''' will be set. The packet payload is available in the global byte array '''buffer'''. The buffer contains only the user message, not any protocol or packet information.<br />
<br />
When any processing of the payload is complete, the buffer can be unlocked by calling the '''releaseLock()''' function. Another packet cannot be received until the buffer is released.<br />
<br />
====Sending messages: ====<br />
<br />
'''Example'''<br />
<nowiki><br />
sendReply();<br />
sendDataByte(0);<br />
sendDataByte(1);<br />
endMessage();<br />
</nowiki><br />
<br />
A new message is started by calling one of two functions:<br />
<br />
<nowiki><br />
sendMessage(destAddress);<br />
</nowiki><br />
or<br />
<nowiki><br />
sendReply();<br />
</nowiki><br />
<br />
sendMessage(byte) requires a single parameter which is the destination address to send the packet to. sendReply() requires no parameters and starts a new packet destined for the sender of the most recently received packet.<br />
<br />
Payload is transmitted by calling the '''sendDataByte(byte)''' function with each byte of content. The '''endMessage()''' function indicates that there is no more content and the packet will be transmitted.<br />
<br />
Transmission occurs in the background, controlled by interrupts. This means the foreground application is not held up while the packet is delivered (and possibly NAKd, re-delivered, etc).<br />
<br />
====Other requirements ====<br />
<br />
In the main interrupt service routine, it is important to call the '''serialInterruptHandler()''' function, otherwise no reception or transmission will occur.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== API details ===<br />
<br />
==== Global variables ====<br />
<br />
===== extern byte processingLock =====<br />
Contains the value 0 when no packet data is avaiting processing or 1 when complete and valid packet data is available.<br />
<br />
===== extern byte buffer[16]; =====<br />
Contains the actual user payload portion of the packet. This is only valid when processingLock is 1.<br />
<br />
==== Functions (alphabetical order) ====<br />
<br />
===== void awaitDelivery(); =====<br />
''Not yet implemented''<br />
<br />
===== byte deliveryStatus(); =====<br />
''Not yet implemented''<br />
<br />
===== void endMessage(); =====<br />
Indicates that all data queued for a message is now complete and the packet details can be finalised and transmitted.<br />
<br />
===== void releaseLock(); =====<br />
Indicates that processing of a received packet is complete and a new packet can be received.<br />
<br />
===== void sendDataByte(byte byteToSend); =====<br />
Queues a single byte into the current message. Prior to calling this function, '''sendMessage''' or '''sendReply''' must have first been called.<br />
<br />
===== void sendMessage(byte destinationAddress); =====<br />
Starts a new message to the given node<br />
<br />
===== void sendReply(); =====<br />
Starts a new message to the sender of the most recent message<br />
<br />
===== void serialInterruptHandler(); =====<br />
Whenever an interrupt occurs, this should be called so the serial routines can do any necessary work.<br />
<br />
==== Minimal application: ====<br />
<br />
<nowiki><br />
<br />
THE FOLLOWING IS NOT COMPLETE YET,<br />
DON'T TRY IT BECAUSE IT PROBABLY WON'T<br />
WORK. It will be cleaned up and finished soon.<br />
<br />
// Select device<br />
#define __16f627<br />
#include <pic/pic16f627.h><br />
#include "pic14.h"<br />
<br />
typedef unsigned int config;<br />
config at 0x2007 __CONFIG = _CP_OFF &<br />
_WDT_OFF &<br />
_BODEN_OFF &<br />
_PWRTE_ON &<br />
_INTRC_OSC_CLKOUT &<br />
_MCLRE_OFF &<br />
_LVP_OFF;<br />
<br />
// This is the address that will messages will be accepted for<br />
byte deviceAddress = 2;<br />
<br />
// Support routines for bank 1<br />
#include "serial-inc.c"<br />
<br />
static void isr() interrupt 0<br />
{<br />
serialInterruptHandler();<br />
}<br />
<br />
void processCommand()<br />
{<br />
switch(buffer[0]) {<br />
case 0: // Command 0 is a standard "get version" message that all devices implement<br />
sendReply(); // Start a reply to the current packet<br />
sendDataByte(0); // Return the version number in bigendian format as major-minor<br />
sendDataByte(1);<br />
endMessage(); // Complete and send the message<br />
break;<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
void main()<br />
{<br />
OPTION_REG = BIN(11011111); // Disable TMR0 on RA4, 1:128 WDT<br />
CMCON = 0xff; // Comparator module defaults<br />
TRISA = BIN(00110000); // Port A outputs (except 4/5)<br />
// RA4 is used for clock out (debugging)<br />
// RA5 can only be used as an input<br />
TRISB = BIN(00000110); // Port B outputs (except 1/2 for serial)<br />
PIE1 = BIN(00000000); // All peripheral interrupts initially disabled<br />
INTCON = BIN(00000000); // Interrupts disabled<br />
PIR1 = 0; // Clear peripheral interrupt flags<br />
SPBRG = 25; // 25 = 2400 baud @ 4MHz<br />
TXSTA = BIN(00000000); // 8 bit low speed<br />
RCSTA = BIN(10000000); // Enable port for 8 bit receive<br />
<br />
TXEN = 1; // Enable transmit<br />
RCIE = 1; // Enable receive interrupts<br />
CREN = 1; // Start reception<br />
PEIE = 1; // Peripheral interrupts on<br />
GIE = 1; // Now turn on interrupts<br />
<br />
PORTB = 0;<br />
PORTA = 0;<br />
<br />
T1CON = BIN(00000000); // Timer 1 in clock mode with 1:1 scale<br />
TMR1IE = 1; // Enable timer interrupt<br />
<br />
init();<br />
<br />
// Clear up any boot noise from the TSR<br />
uartTransmit(0);<br />
<br />
for(;;) {<br />
// This is the main processing loop.<br />
// You would normally put your main application<br />
// in here.<br />
<br />
// In this case, there's nothing to do so we just<br />
// loop endlessly (this is not normally a cool thing<br />
// to do, but this is the world of microcontrollers and<br />
// it's okay, except for the fact we don't do any<br />
// power saving. [We could perhaps extend this to<br />
// wake up on serial interrupt?]<br />
<br />
// If there is a message waiting, we should process it<br />
if (processingLock) { // A message is waiting<br />
processCommand(); // Process command<br />
releaseLock(); // Release buffer<br />
}<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
</nowiki><br />
<br />
===== In the examples, why are there two C files for each device?: =====<br />
<br />
This is related to an sdcc restriction on register allocation. See the sdcc documentation for further explanation.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Firmware development]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Template:RepRapPro_troubleshooting&diff=85109Template:RepRapPro troubleshooting2013-03-07T11:06:25Z<p>Ipinson: /* Solutions */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Parts warp=<br />
<br />
==Problem==<br />
<br />
If the first layer does not adhere well enough to the heatbed, there is a chance the component(s) will warp during printing.<br />
<br />
==Solutions==<br />
<br />
1. Cleanliness of build surface<br />
<br />
Set the heatbed to atemperature of 45C and wait for it to settle there. Clean the surface with nail polish remover (containing acetone, glycerine, and as few other igredients as possible, and definitely '''not''' lanolin or any other oil or grease) using a lint free cloth. Set your heatbed to your print temperature ready for printing.<br />
<br />
2. Setting Z zero<br />
<br />
Follow the instructions laid out in [[RepRapPro Huxley commissioning|Huxley commissioning]] or [[RepRapPro Mendel commissioning|Mendel commissioning]]<br />
<br />
3. Reduce bed temp<br />
<br />
The default 95C maybe too hot, try a lower setting of 50-60C.<br />
<br />
=Machine stops extruding=<br />
<br />
==Problem==<br />
<br />
This could be due to a number of reasons:<br />
<br />
* Bowden tube has popped out of the pneumatic fitting.<br />
* Extruder motor does not move much but makes a squeaking noise.<br />
* Extruder motor rotates. but the gears do not.<br />
* Extruder drive motor and gears rotate, but the filament does not feed.<br />
<br />
==Solutions==<br />
<br />
1. The most likely reason for the bowden tube popping out of its fittings is due to contamination inside the melt chamber. To ensure the melt chamber is free from contamination, follow these steps:<br />
<br />
(i) Heat nozzle to around the ABS extrusion temperature and feed (by hand) some filament into the nozzle.<br />
<br />
(ii) Set the nozzle temperature to 78C and wait for the temperature to settle there.<br />
<br />
(iii) Reverse the extruder, pulling out the filament from the melt chamber, along with any contamination.<br />
<br />
(iv) Cut the contaminated end from the filament.<br />
<br />
2. If the extruder motor does not move as expected, but makes a squeaking noise, it means it does not have enough torque to drive the extrude3r feed mechanism. Ensure Vref on [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] the stepper driver is set to 0.4v,as described in the [[RepRapPro Huxley commissioning |Huxley commissioning instructions]] or the [[RepRapPro Mendel commissioning|Mendel commissioning instructions]].<br />
<br />
3. If the gears are not rotating with the motor, tighten the M3x10mm socket set screw which anchors the small gear to the motor shaft.<br />
<br />
4. This could be due to a number of reasons. It is possible for the M6 lock nut to come a little loose after much printing, alowing for some play in the hobbed stud. This can result in the filament wandering from the hobbed section of the stud during a print. Once the filament is on the smooth part of the stud, it will no longer feed.<br />
<br />
If the filament is still over the hobb, and has stopped feeding, there is most likely a section worn away from the side of the filament. This could be due to a nozzle jam. To resolve this, follow the instructions as per solution 1 above.<br />
<br />
=Stepped layers=<br />
<br />
==Problem==<br />
<br />
Midway through printing a part the next layer appears to have slipped by a millimetre or two causing a step which should not be there.<br />
<br />
A step in the printed object results from a stepper motor skipping steps. This is a result of the motor not having enough torque to move the axis (temporarily, since the print continues at the new position). This can be caused by many things, including:<br />
<br />
* Stepper driver overheats and temporarily shuts down<br />
* Motor overheats and therefore loses power<br />
* Print head snags on something, usually a curling print due to the previous layers not having cooled enough when the next is put down. This curling eventually solidifies and creates an obstruction for the head. This failure is usually pretty final though.<br />
* Axis snags on something. This can either be the belt wandering and snagging on the printed parts, or wiring catching/getting in the way of movement.<br />
<br />
There are probably other ways a step in the print can happen, but the above are the most common ones.<br />
<br />
==Solution==<br />
<br />
Depending on the cause:<br />
<br />
1. Use secondary cooling fan to cool the electronics.<br />
<br />
2. Check that the motors are being supplied with sufficient current to meet the demand. The test pads on each stepper motor driver should read 0.4V, relative to ground.<br />
<br />
3. Check that the nozzle is not dragging through plastic as it travels.<br />
<br />
4. Check all wires, cogs and belts whilst printing and reposition/realign anything impeding the smooth movement on all axes.</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=PonokoFrameBaseAssembly&diff=85108PonokoFrameBaseAssembly2013-03-07T11:06:13Z<p>Ipinson: /* Assembling The Ponoko RepRap Frame Base */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Assembling The Ponoko RepRap Frame Base ==<br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04440.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<table><br />
<tr><td></td><td>[PonokoRepRap Main Ponoko Page]</td></tr><br />
<br />
<tr><td>[[PonokoYAxisAssembly|Prev Step]]</td><td></td><td>[[PonokoZFrameAssembly|Next Step]]</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>[[PonokoBOM#PonokoFrameBaseAssembly|BOM for this page]]</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
When assembling the framework, remember that it is what makes the RepRap move in straight lines. The straighter and squarer you make it, the better your RepRap will be. Check all rotating threaded rods and plain rods that are used as slides to make sure they are dead straight. You can sight down them as I'm doing in this photo, or you can roll them back and forth on a dead-flat surface such as a sheet of glass. If it doesn't roll smoothly [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga], it's not straight. If not straight enough, clout them into line with a block of firewood or rubber mallet - nothing that will damage the surface.<br />
<br />
The Frame Base is assembled largely from the parts you have already built: Lower Corners and Z Motor Assembly. Also included in this section are the Z Axis Drive Rods, or "Z Kebabs" which are fitted into bearings in the base, forming the mechanism that raises and lowers the RepRap's build bed.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04459.jpg|thumb]]<br />
This is the collection of parts for assembling the base. You'll need the 3 Lower Corners, the Z Motor Assembly, <part>four 8mm diameter 500mm long bright steel rod</part> and the long spacing jigs from the lasercut kit. Long-nosed pliers are handy, but generally you should not need to do the nuts up much tighter than finger-tight. Over-tightening results in breaking acrylic and frayed tempers.<br />
<br />
The tea - Earl Grey, hot, with milk - is optional.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04462.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Slide the Z Motor on first. Note how the two rods have the Motor on the inside of their "V". Then add the other corners. Two 8mm rods will go high, two will go low, as is shown in the next photo.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04464.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Use the jigs in the lasercut kit to space the M8 rods evenly before tightening the corner screws.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04463.jpg|thumb]]<br />
To access tricky screw heads on the underside of the Frame, drop the Corner over the edge of the bench.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04487.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Remove the Z Motor for access to the Corner screws. Leave it off until after the vertical posts of the Z axis are installed (we've not got to that bit yet).<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04467.jpg|thumb]]<br />
These are the artistically-interpreted components for creating the bed Mounts. These hold the corners of the bed and move up or down along the Z axis and you will want four of them. Parts per item include:<br />
<br />
* 400mm M8 studding<br />
* 2 off M8 nuts<br />
* 3 off M3 40mm machine screw<br />
* 3 off M3 nuts<br />
* 6 off M3 washers<br />
* Section of 11mm (7/16") utility compression spring<br />
* M8 washers to suit<br />
<br />
Cheap airsoft pistols from the dollar store are an excellent source of compression springs.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04468.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<repeat count="4"><br />
Put <part p="3 M3">washer</part>s on the <part>three M3 40mm screw</part>s and put them into the teardrop-shaped plate. Onto each screw put two M3 spacers cut from the 8mm acrylic sheet.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04470.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Put the round plate on top of the spacers.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04471.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Put the triangular plate on top of the round plate and hold it down with <part p="3 M3">washer</part>s and <part p="3 M3">nut</part>s.<br />
<br />
Note on more recent kits, there is a 3mm acrylic part labelled "ZN". If your springs are a little weak, add one of these on top of the stack and trap an M8 nut in the hexagonal cavity before adding washers and nuts.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04472.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Cut a section of 11mm spring to approximately the same length as the width of the Mount. Exactly how much you need depends on how good you are at curving the end of the spring over and how strong it is.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04473.jpg|thumb]]<br />
This is a relatively puny spring.<br />
<br />
<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
<br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04474.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Put an <part>M8 nut</part> onto the end of a <part>M8 400mm studding</part>, wind it down about 15mm, put the spring on it, and push it into the Mount. Cap with another <part p="M8">nut</part>.<br />
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The idea is:<br />
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* The nuts cannot rotate within the mount, and<br />
* The spring is strong enough to stop the nuts rattling on the threaded rod.<br />
* The threaded rod can still rotate freely within the nuts.<br />
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[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04477.jpg|thumb]]<br />
If you find yourself slightly short on spring, or the bit you cut turns out to not be strong enough to provide constant tension between the two nuts even after you've stretched it a bit, put a few washers in with the spring as shown.<br />
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[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04475.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Once you've put the Mount together, wind it to about 150mm off the bottom of the threaded rod. Make three of these. Make a fourth, but don't put any M8 threaded rod (aka studding or all-thread) in it yet. One of the studdings will be shorter by the height of your Z motor, but the exact length is dependent upon your choice of NEMA 23 vs NEMA 17 motors.<br />
</repeat><br />
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<repeat count="4"><br />
[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04480.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Now we attach the Pulley that takes the #10 4.5mm ball-chain. Do these parts up tight as it relies on compression fitting to stop the central cog rotating on the axle. Wind on a <part>M8 nut</part>, <part>M8 washer</part>, 3mm six-legged washer, 5mm ball-chain gear, 3mm six-legged washer, <part>M8 washer</part>, and finally a <part>M8 nut</part><br />
</repeat><br />
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[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04482.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Wind the pulley on so that about 80mm of screw thread protrudes.<br />
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Now is the time to check that your chain fits between the Pulley rims. If the fit is too tight, insert a washer or some other form of shim between the gear and one of the rims.<br />
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<BR CLEAR="ALL"><br />
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[[image:PonokoFrameBaseAssembly-dsc04483.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Sometimes refered to as "Z kebabs," here are the three completed Z Idler Assemblies:<br />
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<table><br />
<tr><td></td><td>[PonokoRepRap Main Ponoko Page]</td></tr><br />
<br />
<tr><td>[[PonokoYAxisAssembly|Prev Step]]</td><td></td><td>[[PonokoZFrameAssembly|Next Step]]</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
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-- Main.VikOlliver - 20 Nov 2008<br />
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[[Category:Ponoko]]</div>Ipinsonhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Cast_then_machine_printer_system_concept&diff=85107Cast then machine printer system concept2013-03-07T11:06:02Z<p>Ipinson: </p>
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<div>Okay, if you have a look at my edit history [[User:Greenatolsecondtry|Greenatolsecondtry]] 07:42, 20 October 2011 (UTC) you can see I have been doing a lot of library research into methods by which to produce full strength objects, especially metal objects, with all the sort of desirable properties that can be [http://www.tertinggal.com Berita Terbaru] [http://www.darrencurtisskanson.com/ Berita Terkini] [http://www.diversifiedcopier.com Berita Hari Ini] [http://www.duncanson-yachts.com Berita Terupdate] [http://www.pacificgasltd.com Kumpulan Berita] [http://www.roketseo.org Jasa SEO Murah] [http://www.roketseo.co.id Jasa SEO] [http://www.grosirbajubatik.org/ Baju Batik] [http://www.tokobungaria.com Toko Bunga] obtained with normal production processes, but with lower capital cost, running cost, material cost, low training requirements and labor input per unit productivity, and set up time for a given part. Ultimately it doesn't really matter whether the process is additive or not of course.<br />
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Unfortunately there are some real, although probably surmountable problems with making highly accurate (like IT5) parts with normal material properties, with additive processes. Tempering hardening and other control over the crystal structure of the material can be done to some degree by modifying the process characteristics, so I don't want to put that off the table.<br />
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But if the goal here is more to make the sort of equipment that can make the sort of products that are already economically important rather than invent yet another production process like electron beam manufacturing, the conventional casting followed by machining may be the route that is most reliable and requires the least product development.<br />
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So this concept marries 2 different concepts, and of course there are other ways to do it but just to make this a concept rather than just a few even more vague thoughts. It should be self replicating to whatever extent possible of course, which will help a lot to keep the price of the second generation down:<br />
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Automatic casting production machine. This machine prints casts using some process, probably similar to FDM. The material the cast is made from has to be highly temperature resistant, and recyclable, as well as non-porous, easy to remove from the cast and preferably have a similar thermal expansion coefficient to the metal being cast. Preferably the cast is fairly accurate too, and has good surface finish, like 20 microns per centimeter. It doesn't have to be very strong though, not does it have to have low residual stresses, and the process only needs to work with one type of material.<br />
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Removing the cast from around certain complex objects can only be done by essentially liquefying or gassifying it so the cast in this concept is not reusable.<br />
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Finding a combination of materials and processes that meets all these requirements will no doubt take some searching but seems altogether doable. Potential options:<br />
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*Use a volatiles only wax as the support material. Boil some wax and capture the condensate and you have the volatiles only fraction, which can be used in an FDM like printing process.<br />
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Then have a material that is temperature resistant etc. dissolved in a small amount of solvent so it is gel-like, a thick paste. Extrude this, allow the solvent to evaporate to produce a deposit of the build material. Machine using a diamond bit for higher accuracy. <br />
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The resulting printed object can have the support material removed by placing it in an oven, which can double as the pouring chamber, where the metal is poured in to the mold.<br />
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The build material can then be removed by dissolving in the solvent again. CTE can be adjusted by adding ceramic powders to it as desired.<br />
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*Another option could be to use a very high temperature FDM process or other additive process, basically, with a material like a ceramic that melts at a temperature even higher than the metal being cast. Plasma spraying followed by milling with a diamond bit could work, and then the material can be removed by dissolution.<br />
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*3d printing using a solvent with a salt dissolved in it instead of an organic binder.<br />
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*Although it reduces the accuracy of the casting, it is possible to 3d print casts with organic binder resins, as is done by some commercial companies like I think the name of one is "direct cast" which sells a 3d printing system to produce reusable casts for foundries. The resin pyrolizes releasing some gas due to the high temperature, but it is manageable and can still produce good castings.<br />
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Casting process:<br />
Casting is not entirely trivial to get good casts every time, there is substantial design involved, but the software to simulate and do such design is widespread. Voids are the main problem, and shrinkage which reduces dimensional accuracy is another one, but since we will be machining it anyway it is sure to be manageable. It would be nice to produce highly accurate castings though, as with "premium" investment casting accuracy on the order of 80 microns over 2 centimeters is being advertised, which is enough to produce many useful products while skipping the machining stage. Also, higher accuracy reduces the amount of machining needed and increases productivity thereby.<br />
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There are many standard and well known techniques to produce void free castings too, and we can use them as well as techniques taht may be to low productivity in a normal production context, like briefly exposing the molten metal to a vacuum before pouring into the mold, to reduce teh partial pressure of hydrogen and other gasses present in the metal, which will reduce gas bubbles caused by dissolution of gasses. We can also preheat or pre-cool the cast using the oven functionality as desired, do casting under argon or a vacuum, whatever.<br />
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Machining:<br />
The idea of a so called "intelligent machine tool" fits here. Basically you hand the tool a casting or piece of stock, and a cad file, it machines it while recovering from any errors, then scans the object or uses a CMM device to ensure the dimensions of the object are correct, and outputs the finished part plus a quality control file that describes the part and compares it to what you wanted.<br />
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Unfortunately the development of such a tool has not been pursued. Probably due to the mass manufacturing nature of modern production and the cost of labor being too low - it's cheaper just to pay someone peanuts to do it. It is also however mentioned by some authors that the lack of availability of such a machine, and perhaps the technical hurdles involved with developing such a machine is part of the reason for the interest in additive manufacturing methods, which are easier to automate.<br />
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So this would be a substantial project in itself, however a more ordinary less intelligent machine tool would still be okay and produce a very useful unit, especially if low cost, such as self replication which could keep the cost far lower while keeping the quality high compared to buying the parts. [http://termpaper.biz/ termpaper.biz]<br />
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The machine tool has to be capable of machining a wide range of parts, more than ust a lathe or just a mill, like the Multimachine, and preferably more. More axis can be added to increase flexibility. See the open manufacturing google group thread "A self-replicating open source machine tool that can make practically any part (that you can make in a normal cnc shop) " and the metal print head pages on the wiki for ideas. There are commercial machines that combine the functionalities of both mills and lathes on the market already, and I don't mean those crappy 3 in one hobby tools that can't do anything right, but machines like the mill-turn machines that supposedly can do both well, and without refixturing too.<br />
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So that's it, produce casting, heat treat it to anneal or harden or whatever you want, and then machine, heat treat again if you wish. This could produce very good parts although it would require substantial training and intervention to produce unique parts, a lot of the work is apparently writing the program for the machine tool, so the programs can be shared in an open source way to alleviate the training and set up time substantially for such parts.<br />
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[[Category:Principles]]</div>Ipinson