https://reprap.org/mediawiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Kymberlyaandrus&feedformat=atomRepRap - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T07:30:39ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.30.0https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=LaserCutMendel&diff=32035LaserCutMendel2011-04-19T23:03:09Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Assembly Instruction Links */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:TZLasercutMendel.jpg|border|right|400px|Image of a Huxley Frame, assembled from a TechZoneCommunications Huxley Kit]]<br />
=General=<br />
<br />
This page and its sub pages should guide you through assembling a TechZone LaserCut Mendel kit - which is technically a RepRap "RepStrap. You can purchase and make your own parts for this machiene, or you can [[http://www.techzonecom.com/detail.php?pr_id=25 purchase a kit]] from TechZone. These instructions are a work in progress, we need your help, feel free to edit this document to add comments of you your own, or contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and send us messages asking us for better clarification or details. <br />
<br />
I am starting by posting the pictures I have, and over the next few days, I will fill in the instructions and detials (24 Dec 2010)<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br style="clear: text" /><br />
Lambert (TechZone R&D/Support/Documenter)<br />
<br />
<br />
You can access the assembly instructions pages from this page, or from the [[http://www.techzonecom.com/support.php TechZone Support page.]]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Before you get started, I recommend browsing through all the different assembly sections, so that you have an Idea of what will be coming (it helps to keep you from second guessing what needs done next). You will find that a clean work area, with a good, flat work surface will save you lots of time, and help keep the frustration level down. TechZone has tried very hard to make this kit as complete as possible, if you find that there are some essential parts missing, which should be included in the kit, please contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and let us know.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Unpacking the LaserCut Mendel Kit=<br />
[[Image:LazercutKitParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Contents of the LaserCut Mendel Kit]]On the left is a picture of the parts which come in the TechZone LaserCut Mendel Kit: <br />
**<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Nut and Bolt Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutNutNBoltSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the LaserCut Mendel Nut and Bolt set]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Printed Parts Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the LaserCut replacement parts (they replace the RepRap Printed parts) used in the LaserCut Mendel Kit]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Extruder Hardware===<br />
[[Image:LasercutExtruderHardware.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the hardware for the included Wades Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
===Extruder Printed and LaserCut parts===<br />
[[Image:LasercutExtruderPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Printed Parts for the Wades Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Thick Sheet Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutThickSheetSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the TechZone LaserCut Mendel thick sheet set]] The TechZone LaserCut Mendel thick sheet set is different from the Thick Sheet set used by the standard RepRap mendel. You could use all of the parts shown in this set to build a standard RepRap Mendel, except for the frog plate, you would need a different frog plate. We have recently changed the electronics mounting board from two large boards to one large board. This single board is designed to mount on the side of the Mendel. You can mount either the TechZone Generation 3 electronics to it, or the TechZone Monotronics to it.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Belts==<br />
[[Image:LasercutBelts.jpg|border|left|250px|The three belts used in the LaserCut Mendel]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Bar Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutBars.jpg|border|left|250px|The steel bars used to build LaserCut Mendel]]These bars are no longer exactly the same as the original Printed RepRap Mendel printer, however, they are compatible with the TechZone variation of the RepRap printed parts. If you want to use these bars with an original RepRap Mendel made from printed parts, you will need three more bars and you need to replace the X axis smooth bars with a pair of bars which are a little bit longer. TechZoneCommunications sells a "differences" bar kit if you are trying to source these parts.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Motors==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Stepper Motors]]Four stepper motors are included in your kit. TechZone provides motors with an excess of torque compared to the original RepRap Mendel spec. The motors in your kit have at least 3.2kg/cm torque and are 1.8 degree stepper motors.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Monotronics Electronics set (Electronics Option)==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyElectronics.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Monotronics Electronics]]The TechZone Monotronics electronics set is one of the electronics options for building your LaserCut Mendel. A picture of it is shown on the left, you can follow the [[Monotronics|instructions found at this link to test and install them.]] If you selected and recieve these electronics in your order, follow that link for your electronics instructions.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==TechZone Gen 3 Electronics (Electronics Option)==<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Miscellaneous Items==<br />
[[Image:LasercutMisc.jpg|border|left|250px|Other parts used to build Huxley]]Included in this is:<br />
**(1) Thin sheet material<br />
**(15) small zip ties<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Assembly Instruction Links=<br />
I know it would have been more convenient for most of you if these links had been at the top of the page, but it is important that you look through your kit and make sure all your items are there, before you begin assembly. I also suggest that it may be a time saver to you to skip to the electronics, and do a bench test on them first, so that if you need to get any parts exchanged, that happens while you are assembling the rest of you kit.<br />
<br />
1) [[LaserCutFrame|Frame Assembly]]<br />
<br />
2) [[LaserCutXAxis|X Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
3) [[LaserCutYAxis|Y Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
4) [[LaserCutZAxis|Z Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
5) [[LaserCutMotors|Motors, Belts and Endstops]]<br />
<br />
6a) [[Monotronics|Monotronics Electronics]]<br />
<br />
6b) [[Official_Electronics_Installation_page|Generation 3 Electronics]]<br />
<br />
7) [[TechZone_Tip_Assembly|TechZone Tip Assembly]]<br />
<br />
The extruder is a [[Wade's Geared Extruder]], and assembly instructions for it will be close to instructions for assembling the extruder here. The TechZone kit does not include the springs that you see on the page for Wade's extruder, but otherwise assembly is nearly identical. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
The files needed to print and make your own Huxley, without buying the kit can be downloaded from here:<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Printable Parts<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley<br />
| These are printable .stl files for the Huxley, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyParts-1210.stl.zip|.stl.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Thick Sheet Set<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Thick Sheet set, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Bowden Extruder Gears<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Gears Used in the TechZone Bowden Extruder.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
==Differences in files==<br />
The TechZone files differ from the Huxley currently being developed in the following ways:<br />
**The Y axis motor mount has been modified to allow Nema17 or Nema14 motors to be mounted, it also has an altered height, in order to work with the modified Leg Vertices (see below)<br />
**The Y axis idler has an altered height to work with the modified Leg Vertices.<br />
**The Leg Vertices have been modified to be a little taller, and to have feet (that don't break off under pressure), the two top vertices are not altered, only the four lower vertices<br />
**The Z drive screw base was inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4242 Tim Schmidt's Z Axis]<br />
**The Z Axis motor mount was also inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4236 Tim Schmidt's Parts] this part is for a nema 17 motor<br />
**The X axis motor mount has been modified to accept Nema17 or Nema 14 motors<br />
**The X Axis Carriage has been changed to make it narrow enough for the belt to bypass it (rather than using larger idler bearing space on the X idler bracket and X motor mount) It also uses a bushing on the 360 side<br />
**The 360 degree side of the X Axis Carriage is now the bushing clamp for the X axis carriage.<br />
**The 180 degree side of the X Axis Carriage has been altered to allow the belt to pass by without interference.<br />
**The X Axis belt clamps have been modified to fit the new X Carriage.<br />
**The bowden extruder is a modified Wades Extruder, it allows for a larger gear, which TechZone cuts from plywood with a laser.<br />
**The bowden clamps were created from the models done by Erik as published on Thingiverse [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3775 here.]<br />
**The thick sheet set was modified to make it a little simpler, the print size was increased a tiny bit (file available above in [[Huxley#Files|Files]] section above.<br />
**The motor end X Bar Clamp was changed to make it a little sturdier (it now looks very much like the Idler end Bar Clamp).<br />
<br />
The other TechZone parts used were selected from the various publications of Huxley parts found on Thingiverse. All the parts we modified (except the Bowden clamps) were modified using Google Sketchup. An Stl importer, and exporter was added to Google Sketchup, to allow the stl files to be modified directly - eliminating another cad format. A special thanks to Derrick Huestis, who helped TechZone with the file modifications.</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=LaserCutMendel&diff=32034LaserCutMendel2011-04-19T22:56:15Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Monotronics Electronics set (Electronics Option) */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:TZLasercutMendel.jpg|border|right|400px|Image of a Huxley Frame, assembled from a TechZoneCommunications Huxley Kit]]<br />
=General=<br />
<br />
This page and its sub pages should guide you through assembling a TechZone LaserCut Mendel kit - which is technically a RepRap "RepStrap. You can purchase and make your own parts for this machiene, or you can [[http://www.techzonecom.com/detail.php?pr_id=25 purchase a kit]] from TechZone. These instructions are a work in progress, we need your help, feel free to edit this document to add comments of you your own, or contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and send us messages asking us for better clarification or details. <br />
<br />
I am starting by posting the pictures I have, and over the next few days, I will fill in the instructions and detials (24 Dec 2010)<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br style="clear: text" /><br />
Lambert (TechZone R&D/Support/Documenter)<br />
<br />
<br />
You can access the assembly instructions pages from this page, or from the [[http://www.techzonecom.com/support.php TechZone Support page.]]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Before you get started, I recommend browsing through all the different assembly sections, so that you have an Idea of what will be coming (it helps to keep you from second guessing what needs done next). You will find that a clean work area, with a good, flat work surface will save you lots of time, and help keep the frustration level down. TechZone has tried very hard to make this kit as complete as possible, if you find that there are some essential parts missing, which should be included in the kit, please contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and let us know.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Unpacking the LaserCut Mendel Kit=<br />
[[Image:LazercutKitParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Contents of the LaserCut Mendel Kit]]On the left is a picture of the parts which come in the TechZone LaserCut Mendel Kit: <br />
**<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Nut and Bolt Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutNutNBoltSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the LaserCut Mendel Nut and Bolt set]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Printed Parts Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the LaserCut replacement parts (they replace the RepRap Printed parts) used in the LaserCut Mendel Kit]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Extruder Hardware===<br />
[[Image:LasercutExtruderHardware.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the hardware for the included Wades Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
===Extruder Printed and LaserCut parts===<br />
[[Image:LasercutExtruderPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Printed Parts for the Wades Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Thick Sheet Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutThickSheetSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the TechZone LaserCut Mendel thick sheet set]] The TechZone LaserCut Mendel thick sheet set is different from the Thick Sheet set used by the standard RepRap mendel. You could use all of the parts shown in this set to build a standard RepRap Mendel, except for the frog plate, you would need a different frog plate. We have recently changed the electronics mounting board from two large boards to one large board. This single board is designed to mount on the side of the Mendel. You can mount either the TechZone Generation 3 electronics to it, or the TechZone Monotronics to it.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Belts==<br />
[[Image:LasercutBelts.jpg|border|left|250px|The three belts used in the LaserCut Mendel]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Bar Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutBars.jpg|border|left|250px|The steel bars used to build LaserCut Mendel]]These bars are no longer exactly the same as the original Printed RepRap Mendel printer, however, they are compatible with the TechZone variation of the RepRap printed parts. If you want to use these bars with an original RepRap Mendel made from printed parts, you will need three more bars and you need to replace the X axis smooth bars with a pair of bars which are a little bit longer. TechZoneCommunications sells a "differences" bar kit if you are trying to source these parts.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Motors==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Stepper Motors]]Four stepper motors are included in your kit. TechZone provides motors with an excess of torque compared to the original RepRap Mendel spec. The motors in your kit have at least 3.2kg/cm torque and are 1.8 degree stepper motors.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Monotronics Electronics set (Electronics Option)==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyElectronics.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Monotronics Electronics]]The TechZone Monotronics electronics set is one of the electronics options for building your LaserCut Mendel. A picture of it is shown on the left, you can follow the [[Monotronics|instructions found at this link to test and install them.]] If you selected and recieve these electronics in your order, follow that link for your electronics instructions.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==TechZone Gen 3 Electronics (Electronics Option)==<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Miscellaneous Items==<br />
[[Image:LasercutMisc.jpg|border|left|250px|Other parts used to build Huxley]]Included in this is:<br />
**(1) Thin sheet material<br />
**(15) small zip ties<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Assembly Instruction Links=<br />
I know it would have been more convenient for most of you if these links had been at the top of the page, but it is important that you look through your kit and make sure all your items are there, before you begin assembly.<br />
<br />
1) [[LaserCutFrame|Frame Assembly]]<br />
<br />
2) [[LaserCutXAxis|X Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
3) [[LaserCutYAxis|Y Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
4) [[LaserCutZAxis|Z Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
5) [[LaserCutMotors|Motors, Belts and Endstops]]<br />
<br />
6a) [[Monotronics|Monotronics Electronics]]<br />
<br />
6b) [[Official_Electronics_Installation_page|Generation 3 Electronics]]<br />
<br />
7) [[TechZone_Tip_Assembly|TechZone Tip Assembly]]<br />
<br />
The extruder is a modified version of [[Wade's Geared Extruder]], and assembly instructions for it will be close to instructions for assembling the extruder here. The TechZone kit does not include anything for the springs that you see on the page for Wade's extruder, but otherwise assembly is nearly identical. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
The files needed to print and make your own Huxley, without buying the kit can be downloaded from here:<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Printable Parts<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley<br />
| These are printable .stl files for the Huxley, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyParts-1210.stl.zip|.stl.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Thick Sheet Set<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Thick Sheet set, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Bowden Extruder Gears<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Gears Used in the TechZone Bowden Extruder.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
==Differences in files==<br />
The TechZone files differ from the Huxley currently being developed in the following ways:<br />
**The Y axis motor mount has been modified to allow Nema17 or Nema14 motors to be mounted, it also has an altered height, in order to work with the modified Leg Vertices (see below)<br />
**The Y axis idler has an altered height to work with the modified Leg Vertices.<br />
**The Leg Vertices have been modified to be a little taller, and to have feet (that don't break off under pressure), the two top vertices are not altered, only the four lower vertices<br />
**The Z drive screw base was inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4242 Tim Schmidt's Z Axis]<br />
**The Z Axis motor mount was also inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4236 Tim Schmidt's Parts] this part is for a nema 17 motor<br />
**The X axis motor mount has been modified to accept Nema17 or Nema 14 motors<br />
**The X Axis Carriage has been changed to make it narrow enough for the belt to bypass it (rather than using larger idler bearing space on the X idler bracket and X motor mount) It also uses a bushing on the 360 side<br />
**The 360 degree side of the X Axis Carriage is now the bushing clamp for the X axis carriage.<br />
**The 180 degree side of the X Axis Carriage has been altered to allow the belt to pass by without interference.<br />
**The X Axis belt clamps have been modified to fit the new X Carriage.<br />
**The bowden extruder is a modified Wades Extruder, it allows for a larger gear, which TechZone cuts from plywood with a laser.<br />
**The bowden clamps were created from the models done by Erik as published on Thingiverse [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3775 here.]<br />
**The thick sheet set was modified to make it a little simpler, the print size was increased a tiny bit (file available above in [[Huxley#Files|Files]] section above.<br />
**The motor end X Bar Clamp was changed to make it a little sturdier (it now looks very much like the Idler end Bar Clamp).<br />
<br />
The other TechZone parts used were selected from the various publications of Huxley parts found on Thingiverse. All the parts we modified (except the Bowden clamps) were modified using Google Sketchup. An Stl importer, and exporter was added to Google Sketchup, to allow the stl files to be modified directly - eliminating another cad format. A special thanks to Derrick Huestis, who helped TechZone with the file modifications.</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=LaserCutMendel&diff=32033LaserCutMendel2011-04-19T22:54:30Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Unpacking the Huxley Kit */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:TZLasercutMendel.jpg|border|right|400px|Image of a Huxley Frame, assembled from a TechZoneCommunications Huxley Kit]]<br />
=General=<br />
<br />
This page and its sub pages should guide you through assembling a TechZone LaserCut Mendel kit - which is technically a RepRap "RepStrap. You can purchase and make your own parts for this machiene, or you can [[http://www.techzonecom.com/detail.php?pr_id=25 purchase a kit]] from TechZone. These instructions are a work in progress, we need your help, feel free to edit this document to add comments of you your own, or contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and send us messages asking us for better clarification or details. <br />
<br />
I am starting by posting the pictures I have, and over the next few days, I will fill in the instructions and detials (24 Dec 2010)<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br style="clear: text" /><br />
Lambert (TechZone R&D/Support/Documenter)<br />
<br />
<br />
You can access the assembly instructions pages from this page, or from the [[http://www.techzonecom.com/support.php TechZone Support page.]]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Before you get started, I recommend browsing through all the different assembly sections, so that you have an Idea of what will be coming (it helps to keep you from second guessing what needs done next). You will find that a clean work area, with a good, flat work surface will save you lots of time, and help keep the frustration level down. TechZone has tried very hard to make this kit as complete as possible, if you find that there are some essential parts missing, which should be included in the kit, please contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and let us know.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Unpacking the LaserCut Mendel Kit=<br />
[[Image:LazercutKitParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Contents of the LaserCut Mendel Kit]]On the left is a picture of the parts which come in the TechZone LaserCut Mendel Kit: <br />
**<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Nut and Bolt Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutNutNBoltSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the LaserCut Mendel Nut and Bolt set]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Printed Parts Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the LaserCut replacement parts (they replace the RepRap Printed parts) used in the LaserCut Mendel Kit]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Extruder Hardware===<br />
[[Image:LasercutExtruderHardware.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the hardware for the included Wades Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
===Extruder Printed and LaserCut parts===<br />
[[Image:LasercutExtruderPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Printed Parts for the Wades Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Thick Sheet Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutThickSheetSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the TechZone LaserCut Mendel thick sheet set]] The TechZone LaserCut Mendel thick sheet set is different from the Thick Sheet set used by the standard RepRap mendel. You could use all of the parts shown in this set to build a standard RepRap Mendel, except for the frog plate, you would need a different frog plate. We have recently changed the electronics mounting board from two large boards to one large board. This single board is designed to mount on the side of the Mendel. You can mount either the TechZone Generation 3 electronics to it, or the TechZone Monotronics to it.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Belts==<br />
[[Image:LasercutBelts.jpg|border|left|250px|The three belts used in the LaserCut Mendel]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Bar Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutBars.jpg|border|left|250px|The steel bars used to build LaserCut Mendel]]These bars are no longer exactly the same as the original Printed RepRap Mendel printer, however, they are compatible with the TechZone variation of the RepRap printed parts. If you want to use these bars with an original RepRap Mendel made from printed parts, you will need three more bars and you need to replace the X axis smooth bars with a pair of bars which are a little bit longer. TechZoneCommunications sells a "differences" bar kit if you are trying to source these parts.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Motors==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Stepper Motors]]Four stepper motors are included in your kit. TechZone provides motors with an excess of torque compared to the original RepRap Mendel spec. The motors in your kit have at least 3.2kg/cm torque and are 1.8 degree stepper motors.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Monotronics Electronics set (Electronics Option)==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyElectronics.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Monotronics Electronics]]The TechZone Monotronics electronics set is one of the electronics options for building your LaserCut Mendel. A picture of it is shown on the left, you can follow the [Monotronics|instructions found at this link to test and install them.]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==TechZone Gen 3 Electronics (Electronics Option)==<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Miscellaneous Items==<br />
[[Image:LasercutMisc.jpg|border|left|250px|Other parts used to build Huxley]]Included in this is:<br />
**(1) Thin sheet material<br />
**(15) small zip ties<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Assembly Instruction Links=<br />
I know it would have been more convenient for most of you if these links had been at the top of the page, but it is important that you look through your kit and make sure all your items are there, before you begin assembly.<br />
<br />
1) [[LaserCutFrame|Frame Assembly]]<br />
<br />
2) [[LaserCutXAxis|X Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
3) [[LaserCutYAxis|Y Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
4) [[LaserCutZAxis|Z Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
5) [[LaserCutMotors|Motors, Belts and Endstops]]<br />
<br />
6a) [[Monotronics|Monotronics Electronics]]<br />
<br />
6b) [[Official_Electronics_Installation_page|Generation 3 Electronics]]<br />
<br />
7) [[TechZone_Tip_Assembly|TechZone Tip Assembly]]<br />
<br />
The extruder is a modified version of [[Wade's Geared Extruder]], and assembly instructions for it will be close to instructions for assembling the extruder here. The TechZone kit does not include anything for the springs that you see on the page for Wade's extruder, but otherwise assembly is nearly identical. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
The files needed to print and make your own Huxley, without buying the kit can be downloaded from here:<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Printable Parts<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley<br />
| These are printable .stl files for the Huxley, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyParts-1210.stl.zip|.stl.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Thick Sheet Set<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Thick Sheet set, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Bowden Extruder Gears<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Gears Used in the TechZone Bowden Extruder.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
==Differences in files==<br />
The TechZone files differ from the Huxley currently being developed in the following ways:<br />
**The Y axis motor mount has been modified to allow Nema17 or Nema14 motors to be mounted, it also has an altered height, in order to work with the modified Leg Vertices (see below)<br />
**The Y axis idler has an altered height to work with the modified Leg Vertices.<br />
**The Leg Vertices have been modified to be a little taller, and to have feet (that don't break off under pressure), the two top vertices are not altered, only the four lower vertices<br />
**The Z drive screw base was inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4242 Tim Schmidt's Z Axis]<br />
**The Z Axis motor mount was also inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4236 Tim Schmidt's Parts] this part is for a nema 17 motor<br />
**The X axis motor mount has been modified to accept Nema17 or Nema 14 motors<br />
**The X Axis Carriage has been changed to make it narrow enough for the belt to bypass it (rather than using larger idler bearing space on the X idler bracket and X motor mount) It also uses a bushing on the 360 side<br />
**The 360 degree side of the X Axis Carriage is now the bushing clamp for the X axis carriage.<br />
**The 180 degree side of the X Axis Carriage has been altered to allow the belt to pass by without interference.<br />
**The X Axis belt clamps have been modified to fit the new X Carriage.<br />
**The bowden extruder is a modified Wades Extruder, it allows for a larger gear, which TechZone cuts from plywood with a laser.<br />
**The bowden clamps were created from the models done by Erik as published on Thingiverse [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3775 here.]<br />
**The thick sheet set was modified to make it a little simpler, the print size was increased a tiny bit (file available above in [[Huxley#Files|Files]] section above.<br />
**The motor end X Bar Clamp was changed to make it a little sturdier (it now looks very much like the Idler end Bar Clamp).<br />
<br />
The other TechZone parts used were selected from the various publications of Huxley parts found on Thingiverse. All the parts we modified (except the Bowden clamps) were modified using Google Sketchup. An Stl importer, and exporter was added to Google Sketchup, to allow the stl files to be modified directly - eliminating another cad format. A special thanks to Derrick Huestis, who helped TechZone with the file modifications.</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=LaserCutMendel&diff=32032LaserCutMendel2011-04-19T22:36:19Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* General */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:TZLasercutMendel.jpg|border|right|400px|Image of a Huxley Frame, assembled from a TechZoneCommunications Huxley Kit]]<br />
=General=<br />
<br />
This page and its sub pages should guide you through assembling a TechZone LaserCut Mendel kit - which is technically a RepRap "RepStrap. You can purchase and make your own parts for this machiene, or you can [[http://www.techzonecom.com/detail.php?pr_id=25 purchase a kit]] from TechZone. These instructions are a work in progress, we need your help, feel free to edit this document to add comments of you your own, or contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and send us messages asking us for better clarification or details. <br />
<br />
I am starting by posting the pictures I have, and over the next few days, I will fill in the instructions and detials (24 Dec 2010)<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br style="clear: text" /><br />
Lambert (TechZone R&D/Support/Documenter)<br />
<br />
<br />
You can access the assembly instructions pages from this page, or from the [[http://www.techzonecom.com/support.php TechZone Support page.]]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Before you get started, I recommend browsing through all the different assembly sections, so that you have an Idea of what will be coming (it helps to keep you from second guessing what needs done next). You will find that a clean work area, with a good, flat work surface will save you lots of time, and help keep the frustration level down. TechZone has tried very hard to make this kit as complete as possible, if you find that there are some essential parts missing, which should be included in the kit, please contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and let us know.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Unpacking the Huxley Kit=<br />
[[Image:LazercutKitParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Contents of the Huxley Kit]]On the left is a picture of the parts which come in the Huxley Kit: <br />
**<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Nut and Bolt Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutNutNBoltSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley Nut and Bolt set]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Printed Parts Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the printed parts used in the Huxley]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Extruder Hardware===<br />
[[Image:LasercutExtruderHardware.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the hardware for the Bowden Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
===Extruder Printed and LaserCut parts===<br />
[[Image:LasercutExtruderPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Printed Parts for the Bowden Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Thick Sheet Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutThickSheetSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley thick sheet set]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Belts==<br />
[[Image:LasercutBelts.jpg|border|left|250px|The three belts used on the Huxley]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Bar Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutBars.jpg|border|left|250px|The steel bars used to build Huxley]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Motors==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley Motors]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Monotronics Electronics set==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyElectronics.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley Electronics]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Miscellaneous Items==<br />
[[Image:LasercutMisc.jpg|border|left|250px|Other parts used to build Huxley]]Included in this is:<br />
**(1) Thin sheet material<br />
**(15) small zip ties<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Assembly Instruction Links=<br />
I know it would have been more convenient for most of you if these links had been at the top of the page, but it is important that you look through your kit and make sure all your items are there, before you begin assembly.<br />
<br />
1) [[LaserCutFrame|Frame Assembly]]<br />
<br />
2) [[LaserCutXAxis|X Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
3) [[LaserCutYAxis|Y Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
4) [[LaserCutZAxis|Z Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
5) [[LaserCutMotors|Motors, Belts and Endstops]]<br />
<br />
6a) [[Monotronics|Monotronics Electronics]]<br />
<br />
6b) [[Official_Electronics_Installation_page|Generation 3 Electronics]]<br />
<br />
7) [[TechZone_Tip_Assembly|TechZone Tip Assembly]]<br />
<br />
The extruder is a modified version of [[Wade's Geared Extruder]], and assembly instructions for it will be close to instructions for assembling the extruder here. The TechZone kit does not include anything for the springs that you see on the page for Wade's extruder, but otherwise assembly is nearly identical. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
The files needed to print and make your own Huxley, without buying the kit can be downloaded from here:<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Printable Parts<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley<br />
| These are printable .stl files for the Huxley, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyParts-1210.stl.zip|.stl.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Thick Sheet Set<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Thick Sheet set, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Bowden Extruder Gears<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Gears Used in the TechZone Bowden Extruder.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
==Differences in files==<br />
The TechZone files differ from the Huxley currently being developed in the following ways:<br />
**The Y axis motor mount has been modified to allow Nema17 or Nema14 motors to be mounted, it also has an altered height, in order to work with the modified Leg Vertices (see below)<br />
**The Y axis idler has an altered height to work with the modified Leg Vertices.<br />
**The Leg Vertices have been modified to be a little taller, and to have feet (that don't break off under pressure), the two top vertices are not altered, only the four lower vertices<br />
**The Z drive screw base was inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4242 Tim Schmidt's Z Axis]<br />
**The Z Axis motor mount was also inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4236 Tim Schmidt's Parts] this part is for a nema 17 motor<br />
**The X axis motor mount has been modified to accept Nema17 or Nema 14 motors<br />
**The X Axis Carriage has been changed to make it narrow enough for the belt to bypass it (rather than using larger idler bearing space on the X idler bracket and X motor mount) It also uses a bushing on the 360 side<br />
**The 360 degree side of the X Axis Carriage is now the bushing clamp for the X axis carriage.<br />
**The 180 degree side of the X Axis Carriage has been altered to allow the belt to pass by without interference.<br />
**The X Axis belt clamps have been modified to fit the new X Carriage.<br />
**The bowden extruder is a modified Wades Extruder, it allows for a larger gear, which TechZone cuts from plywood with a laser.<br />
**The bowden clamps were created from the models done by Erik as published on Thingiverse [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3775 here.]<br />
**The thick sheet set was modified to make it a little simpler, the print size was increased a tiny bit (file available above in [[Huxley#Files|Files]] section above.<br />
**The motor end X Bar Clamp was changed to make it a little sturdier (it now looks very much like the Idler end Bar Clamp).<br />
<br />
The other TechZone parts used were selected from the various publications of Huxley parts found on Thingiverse. All the parts we modified (except the Bowden clamps) were modified using Google Sketchup. An Stl importer, and exporter was added to Google Sketchup, to allow the stl files to be modified directly - eliminating another cad format. A special thanks to Derrick Huestis, who helped TechZone with the file modifications.</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=LaserCutMendel&diff=32031LaserCutMendel2011-04-19T22:35:35Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* General */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:TZLasercutMendel.jpg|border|right|400px|Image of a Huxley Frame, assembled from a TechZoneCommunications Huxley Kit]]<br />
=General=<br />
<br />
This page and its sub pages should guide you through assembling a TechZone LaserCut Mendel kit - which is technically a RepRap "RepStrap. You can purchase and make your own parts for this machiene, or you can [[http://www.techzonecom.com/detail.php?pr_id=25 purchase a kit]] from TechZone. This is a work in progress, and needs some help, feel free to edit this document to add comments of you your own, or contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and send us messages asking us for better clarification or details. <br />
<br />
I am starting by posting the pictures I have, and over the next few days, I will fill in the instructions and detials (24 Dec 2010)<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br style="clear: text" /><br />
Lambert (TechZone R&D/Support/Documenter)<br />
<br />
<br />
You can access the assembly instructions pages from this page, or from the [[http://www.techzonecom.com/support.php TechZone Support page.]]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Before you get started, I recommend browsing through all the different assembly sections, so that you have an Idea of what will be coming (it helps to keep you from second guessing what needs done next). You will find that a clean work area, with a good, flat work surface will save you lots of time, and help keep the frustration level down. TechZone has tried very hard to make this kit as complete as possible, if you find that there are some essential parts missing, which should be included in the kit, please contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and let us know.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Unpacking the Huxley Kit=<br />
[[Image:LazercutKitParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Contents of the Huxley Kit]]On the left is a picture of the parts which come in the Huxley Kit: <br />
**<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Nut and Bolt Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutNutNBoltSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley Nut and Bolt set]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Printed Parts Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the printed parts used in the Huxley]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Extruder Hardware===<br />
[[Image:LasercutExtruderHardware.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the hardware for the Bowden Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
===Extruder Printed and LaserCut parts===<br />
[[Image:LasercutExtruderPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Printed Parts for the Bowden Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Thick Sheet Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutThickSheetSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley thick sheet set]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Belts==<br />
[[Image:LasercutBelts.jpg|border|left|250px|The three belts used on the Huxley]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Bar Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutBars.jpg|border|left|250px|The steel bars used to build Huxley]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Motors==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley Motors]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Monotronics Electronics set==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyElectronics.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley Electronics]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Miscellaneous Items==<br />
[[Image:LasercutMisc.jpg|border|left|250px|Other parts used to build Huxley]]Included in this is:<br />
**(1) Thin sheet material<br />
**(15) small zip ties<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Assembly Instruction Links=<br />
I know it would have been more convenient for most of you if these links had been at the top of the page, but it is important that you look through your kit and make sure all your items are there, before you begin assembly.<br />
<br />
1) [[LaserCutFrame|Frame Assembly]]<br />
<br />
2) [[LaserCutXAxis|X Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
3) [[LaserCutYAxis|Y Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
4) [[LaserCutZAxis|Z Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
5) [[LaserCutMotors|Motors, Belts and Endstops]]<br />
<br />
6a) [[Monotronics|Monotronics Electronics]]<br />
<br />
6b) [[Official_Electronics_Installation_page|Generation 3 Electronics]]<br />
<br />
7) [[TechZone_Tip_Assembly|TechZone Tip Assembly]]<br />
<br />
The extruder is a modified version of [[Wade's Geared Extruder]], and assembly instructions for it will be close to instructions for assembling the extruder here. The TechZone kit does not include anything for the springs that you see on the page for Wade's extruder, but otherwise assembly is nearly identical. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
The files needed to print and make your own Huxley, without buying the kit can be downloaded from here:<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Printable Parts<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley<br />
| These are printable .stl files for the Huxley, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyParts-1210.stl.zip|.stl.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Thick Sheet Set<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Thick Sheet set, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Bowden Extruder Gears<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Gears Used in the TechZone Bowden Extruder.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
==Differences in files==<br />
The TechZone files differ from the Huxley currently being developed in the following ways:<br />
**The Y axis motor mount has been modified to allow Nema17 or Nema14 motors to be mounted, it also has an altered height, in order to work with the modified Leg Vertices (see below)<br />
**The Y axis idler has an altered height to work with the modified Leg Vertices.<br />
**The Leg Vertices have been modified to be a little taller, and to have feet (that don't break off under pressure), the two top vertices are not altered, only the four lower vertices<br />
**The Z drive screw base was inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4242 Tim Schmidt's Z Axis]<br />
**The Z Axis motor mount was also inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4236 Tim Schmidt's Parts] this part is for a nema 17 motor<br />
**The X axis motor mount has been modified to accept Nema17 or Nema 14 motors<br />
**The X Axis Carriage has been changed to make it narrow enough for the belt to bypass it (rather than using larger idler bearing space on the X idler bracket and X motor mount) It also uses a bushing on the 360 side<br />
**The 360 degree side of the X Axis Carriage is now the bushing clamp for the X axis carriage.<br />
**The 180 degree side of the X Axis Carriage has been altered to allow the belt to pass by without interference.<br />
**The X Axis belt clamps have been modified to fit the new X Carriage.<br />
**The bowden extruder is a modified Wades Extruder, it allows for a larger gear, which TechZone cuts from plywood with a laser.<br />
**The bowden clamps were created from the models done by Erik as published on Thingiverse [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3775 here.]<br />
**The thick sheet set was modified to make it a little simpler, the print size was increased a tiny bit (file available above in [[Huxley#Files|Files]] section above.<br />
**The motor end X Bar Clamp was changed to make it a little sturdier (it now looks very much like the Idler end Bar Clamp).<br />
<br />
The other TechZone parts used were selected from the various publications of Huxley parts found on Thingiverse. All the parts we modified (except the Bowden clamps) were modified using Google Sketchup. An Stl importer, and exporter was added to Google Sketchup, to allow the stl files to be modified directly - eliminating another cad format. A special thanks to Derrick Huestis, who helped TechZone with the file modifications.</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=LaserCutMendel&diff=32030LaserCutMendel2011-04-19T22:33:15Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* General */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:TZLasercutMendel.jpg|border|right|400px|Image of a Huxley Frame, assembled from a TechZoneCommunications Huxley Kit]]<br />
=General=<br />
<br />
This page and its sub pages should guide you through assembling a TechZone LaserCut Mendel kit - which is technically a RepRap "RepStrap. You can purchase and make your own parts for this machiene, or you can purchase a kit from TechZone. This is a work in progress, and needs some help, feel free to edit this document to add comments of you your own, or contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and send us messages asking us for better clarification or details. <br />
<br />
I am starting by posting the pictures I have, and over the next few days, I will fill in the instructions and detials (24 Dec 2010)<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br style="clear: text" /><br />
Lambert (TechZone R&D/Support/Documenter)<br />
<br />
<br />
You can access the assembly instructions pages from this page, or from the [[http://www.techzonecom.com/support.php TechZone Support page.]]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Before you get started, I recommend browsing through all the different assembly sections, so that you have an Idea of what will be coming (it helps to keep you from second guessing what needs done next). You will find that a clean work area, with a good, flat work surface will save you lots of time, and help keep the frustration level down. TechZone has tried very hard to make this kit as complete as possible, if you find that there are some essential parts missing, which should be included in the kit, please contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and let us know.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Unpacking the Huxley Kit=<br />
[[Image:LazercutKitParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Contents of the Huxley Kit]]On the left is a picture of the parts which come in the Huxley Kit: <br />
**<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Nut and Bolt Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutNutNBoltSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley Nut and Bolt set]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Printed Parts Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the printed parts used in the Huxley]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Extruder Hardware===<br />
[[Image:LasercutExtruderHardware.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the hardware for the Bowden Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
===Extruder Printed and LaserCut parts===<br />
[[Image:LasercutExtruderPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Printed Parts for the Bowden Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Thick Sheet Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutThickSheetSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley thick sheet set]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Belts==<br />
[[Image:LasercutBelts.jpg|border|left|250px|The three belts used on the Huxley]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Bar Set==<br />
[[Image:LasercutBars.jpg|border|left|250px|The steel bars used to build Huxley]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Motors==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley Motors]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Monotronics Electronics set==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyElectronics.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley Electronics]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Miscellaneous Items==<br />
[[Image:LasercutMisc.jpg|border|left|250px|Other parts used to build Huxley]]Included in this is:<br />
**(1) Thin sheet material<br />
**(15) small zip ties<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Assembly Instruction Links=<br />
I know it would have been more convenient for most of you if these links had been at the top of the page, but it is important that you look through your kit and make sure all your items are there, before you begin assembly.<br />
<br />
1) [[LaserCutFrame|Frame Assembly]]<br />
<br />
2) [[LaserCutXAxis|X Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
3) [[LaserCutYAxis|Y Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
4) [[LaserCutZAxis|Z Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
5) [[LaserCutMotors|Motors, Belts and Endstops]]<br />
<br />
6a) [[Monotronics|Monotronics Electronics]]<br />
<br />
6b) [[Official_Electronics_Installation_page|Generation 3 Electronics]]<br />
<br />
7) [[TechZone_Tip_Assembly|TechZone Tip Assembly]]<br />
<br />
The extruder is a modified version of [[Wade's Geared Extruder]], and assembly instructions for it will be close to instructions for assembling the extruder here. The TechZone kit does not include anything for the springs that you see on the page for Wade's extruder, but otherwise assembly is nearly identical. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
The files needed to print and make your own Huxley, without buying the kit can be downloaded from here:<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Printable Parts<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley<br />
| These are printable .stl files for the Huxley, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyParts-1210.stl.zip|.stl.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Thick Sheet Set<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Thick Sheet set, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Bowden Extruder Gears<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Gears Used in the TechZone Bowden Extruder.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
==Differences in files==<br />
The TechZone files differ from the Huxley currently being developed in the following ways:<br />
**The Y axis motor mount has been modified to allow Nema17 or Nema14 motors to be mounted, it also has an altered height, in order to work with the modified Leg Vertices (see below)<br />
**The Y axis idler has an altered height to work with the modified Leg Vertices.<br />
**The Leg Vertices have been modified to be a little taller, and to have feet (that don't break off under pressure), the two top vertices are not altered, only the four lower vertices<br />
**The Z drive screw base was inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4242 Tim Schmidt's Z Axis]<br />
**The Z Axis motor mount was also inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4236 Tim Schmidt's Parts] this part is for a nema 17 motor<br />
**The X axis motor mount has been modified to accept Nema17 or Nema 14 motors<br />
**The X Axis Carriage has been changed to make it narrow enough for the belt to bypass it (rather than using larger idler bearing space on the X idler bracket and X motor mount) It also uses a bushing on the 360 side<br />
**The 360 degree side of the X Axis Carriage is now the bushing clamp for the X axis carriage.<br />
**The 180 degree side of the X Axis Carriage has been altered to allow the belt to pass by without interference.<br />
**The X Axis belt clamps have been modified to fit the new X Carriage.<br />
**The bowden extruder is a modified Wades Extruder, it allows for a larger gear, which TechZone cuts from plywood with a laser.<br />
**The bowden clamps were created from the models done by Erik as published on Thingiverse [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3775 here.]<br />
**The thick sheet set was modified to make it a little simpler, the print size was increased a tiny bit (file available above in [[Huxley#Files|Files]] section above.<br />
**The motor end X Bar Clamp was changed to make it a little sturdier (it now looks very much like the Idler end Bar Clamp).<br />
<br />
The other TechZone parts used were selected from the various publications of Huxley parts found on Thingiverse. All the parts we modified (except the Bowden clamps) were modified using Google Sketchup. An Stl importer, and exporter was added to Google Sketchup, to allow the stl files to be modified directly - eliminating another cad format. A special thanks to Derrick Huestis, who helped TechZone with the file modifications.</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=LaserCutMendel&diff=31190LaserCutMendel2011-04-05T23:19:02Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: Created page with 'Image of a Huxley Frame, assembled from a TechZoneCommunications Huxley Kit =General= This page and its sub pages should guide you thro…'</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:TZHuxley.jpg|border|right|400px|Image of a Huxley Frame, assembled from a TechZoneCommunications Huxley Kit]]<br />
=General=<br />
<br />
This page and its sub pages should guide you through assembling a RepRap Huxley from the TechZone kit, or from parts you have printed which are the same as the TechZone parts. It is a work in progress, and needs some help, feel free to edit this document to add comments of you your own, or contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and send us messages asking us for better clarification or details. <br />
<br />
I am starting by posting the pictures I have, and over the next few days, I will fill in the instructions and detials (24 Dec 2010)<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br style="clear: text" /><br />
Lambert (TechZone R&D/Support/Documenter)<br />
<br />
<br />
You can access the assembly instructions pages from this page, or from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page.]]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Before you get started, I recommend browsing through all the different assembly sections, so that you have an Idea of what will be coming (it helps to keep you from second guessing what needs done next). You will find that a clean work area, with a good work surface will save you lots of time, and help keep the frustration level down. TechZone has tried very hard to make this kit as complete as possible, if you find that there are some essential parts missing, which should be included in the kit, please contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and let us know.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Unpacking the Huxley Kit=<br />
[[Image:HuxleyKitParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Contents of the Huxley Kit]]On the left is a picture of the parts which come in the Huxley Kit: <br />
**<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Nut and Bolt Set==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyNutNBoltSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley Nut and Bolt set]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Printed Parts Set==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the printed parts used in the Huxley]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Extruder Hardware===<br />
[[Image:HuxleyExtruderHardware.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the hardware for the Bowden Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
===Extruder Printed and LaserCut parts===<br />
[[Image:HuxleyExtruderPrintedParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Printed Parts for the Bowden Extruder]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Thick Sheet Set==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyThickSheetSet.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley thick sheet set]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Belts==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBelts.jpg|border|left|250px|The three belts used on the Huxley]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Bar Set==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBars.jpg|border|left|250px|The steel bars used to build Huxley]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Motors==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley Motors]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Monotronics Electronics set==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyElectronics.jpg|border|left|250px|Photo of the Huxley Electronics]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Miscellaneous Items==<br />
[[Image:HuxleyMisc.jpg|border|left|250px|Other parts used to build Huxley]]Included in this is:<br />
**(1) Thin sheet material<br />
**(15) small zip ties<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Assembly Instruction Links=<br />
I know it would have been more convenient for most of you if these links had been at the top of the page, but it is important that you look through your kit and make sure all your items are there, before you begin assembly.<br />
<br />
1) [[HuxleyFrame|Frame Assembly]]<br />
<br />
2) [[HuxleyXAxis|X Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
3) [[HuxleyYAxis|Y Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
4) [[HuxleyZAxis|Z Axis Assembly]]<br />
<br />
5) [[HuxleyMotors|Motors, Belts and Endstops]]<br />
<br />
6) [[Monotronics|Electronics]]<br />
<br />
7) [[TechZone_Tip_Assembly|TechZone Tip Assembly]]<br />
<br />
The extruder is a modified version of [[Wade's Geared Extruder]], and assembly instructions for it will be close to instructions for assembling the extruder here. The TechZone kit does not include anything for the springs that you see on the page for Wade's extruder, but otherwise assembly is nearly identical. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
The files needed to print and make your own Huxley, without buying the kit can be downloaded from here:<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Printable Parts<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley<br />
| These are printable .stl files for the Huxley, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyParts-1210.stl.zip|.stl.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Thick Sheet Set<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Thick Sheet set, the way TechZone did it.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyThickSheet-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Huxley Bowden Extruder Gears<br />
| TechZone variation of the Huxley <br />
| This is the Gears Used in the TechZone Bowden Extruder.<br />
| [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.cdr.zip|.cdr.zip]], [[media:TZHuxleyBowdenGears-1210.svg.zip|.svg.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Kimberly Andrus (TechZone)]] 12:00, Dec 24, 2010 (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
==Differences in files==<br />
The TechZone files differ from the Huxley currently being developed in the following ways:<br />
**The Y axis motor mount has been modified to allow Nema17 or Nema14 motors to be mounted, it also has an altered height, in order to work with the modified Leg Vertices (see below)<br />
**The Y axis idler has an altered height to work with the modified Leg Vertices.<br />
**The Leg Vertices have been modified to be a little taller, and to have feet (that don't break off under pressure), the two top vertices are not altered, only the four lower vertices<br />
**The Z drive screw base was inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4242 Tim Schmidt's Z Axis]<br />
**The Z Axis motor mount was also inspired by [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4236 Tim Schmidt's Parts] this part is for a nema 17 motor<br />
**The X axis motor mount has been modified to accept Nema17 or Nema 14 motors<br />
**The X Axis Carriage has been changed to make it narrow enough for the belt to bypass it (rather than using larger idler bearing space on the X idler bracket and X motor mount) It also uses a bushing on the 360 side<br />
**The 360 degree side of the X Axis Carriage is now the bushing clamp for the X axis carriage.<br />
**The 180 degree side of the X Axis Carriage has been altered to allow the belt to pass by without interference.<br />
**The X Axis belt clamps have been modified to fit the new X Carriage.<br />
**The bowden extruder is a modified Wades Extruder, it allows for a larger gear, which TechZone cuts from plywood with a laser.<br />
**The bowden clamps were created from the models done by Erik as published on Thingiverse [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3775 here.]<br />
**The thick sheet set was modified to make it a little simpler, the print size was increased a tiny bit (file available above in [[Huxley#Files|Files]] section above.<br />
**The motor end X Bar Clamp was changed to make it a little sturdier (it now looks very much like the Idler end Bar Clamp).<br />
<br />
The other TechZone parts used were selected from the various publications of Huxley parts found on Thingiverse. All the parts we modified (except the Bowden clamps) were modified using Google Sketchup. An Stl importer, and exporter was added to Google Sketchup, to allow the stl files to be modified directly - eliminating another cad format. A special thanks to Derrick Huestis, who helped TechZone with the file modifications.</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=31189Monotronics2011-04-05T23:17:17Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* General */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Kymberlyaandrus<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. [[User:Kymberlyaandrus|We]] considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and its peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
These electronics can also be used on a Mendel, a [[LaserCutMendel]], the new [[Mondo]] or even on a Prusa<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too busy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
'''ANOTHER NOTE''' Several people have had problems uploading the firmware from the Arduino v22 environment, I have not yet investigated this, please use an older version of arduino to upload this firmware. I have used V17, V18, and V19 they all seem to work fine.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
==Software Recommendations==<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
TechZone ships the electronics with the newest firmware which they have at the time of shipping. Your electronics should work when you get them, but to get added features you may want or need to upload a newer firmware. Follow these instructions and you will find that you have a good success rate. You may need an older version of the Arduino environment, as noted in the firmware file section of this document.<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions here http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage in the wiki. The details for installing Sanguino support are on the Sanguino web page (http://sanguino.cc/softwareforlinux). The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
The pinout map created by TechZone has both the Arduino pin names (for programming purposes) and, where appropriate a component or useage name for the pin. We have done this in hopes that it makes it easier to reference and modify the usage of this electronics set.<br />
<br />
==Mainboard==<br />
<br />
[[File:MainBoardPinout.jpg|1000px]]<br />
<br />
==Tip Manager and Bed Manager==<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28843Monotronics2011-02-22T02:25:29Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Mainboard */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too busy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
'''ANOTHER NOTE''' Several people have had problems uploading the firmware from the Arduino v22 environment, I have not yet investigated this, please use an older version of arduino to upload this firmware. I have used V17, V18, and V19 they all seem to work fine.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
==Software Recommendations==<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
TechZone ships the electronics with the newest firmware which they have at the time of shipping. Your electronics should work when you get them, but to get added features you may want or need to upload a newer firmware. Follow these instructions and you will find that you have a good success rate. You may need an older version of the Arduino environment, as noted in the firmware file section of this document.<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions here http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage in the wiki. The details for installing Sanguino support are on the Sanguino web page (http://sanguino.cc/softwareforlinux). The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
The pinout map created by TechZone has both the Arduino pin names (for programming purposes) and, where appropriate a component or useage name for the pin. We have done this in hopes that it makes it easier to reference and modify the usage of this electronics set.<br />
<br />
==Mainboard==<br />
<br />
[[File:MainBoardPinout.jpg|1000px]]<br />
<br />
==Tip Manager and Bed Manager==<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28842Monotronics2011-02-22T02:25:09Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Mainboard */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too busy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
'''ANOTHER NOTE''' Several people have had problems uploading the firmware from the Arduino v22 environment, I have not yet investigated this, please use an older version of arduino to upload this firmware. I have used V17, V18, and V19 they all seem to work fine.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
==Software Recommendations==<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
TechZone ships the electronics with the newest firmware which they have at the time of shipping. Your electronics should work when you get them, but to get added features you may want or need to upload a newer firmware. Follow these instructions and you will find that you have a good success rate. You may need an older version of the Arduino environment, as noted in the firmware file section of this document.<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions here http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage in the wiki. The details for installing Sanguino support are on the Sanguino web page (http://sanguino.cc/softwareforlinux). The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
The pinout map created by TechZone has both the Arduino pin names (for programming purposes) and, where appropriate a component or useage name for the pin. We have done this in hopes that it makes it easier to reference and modify the usage of this electronics set.<br />
<br />
==Mainboard==<br />
<br />
[[File:MainBoardPinout.jpg]1000px]<br />
<br />
==Tip Manager and Bed Manager==<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28841Monotronics2011-02-22T02:24:51Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Mainboard */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too busy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
'''ANOTHER NOTE''' Several people have had problems uploading the firmware from the Arduino v22 environment, I have not yet investigated this, please use an older version of arduino to upload this firmware. I have used V17, V18, and V19 they all seem to work fine.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
==Software Recommendations==<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
TechZone ships the electronics with the newest firmware which they have at the time of shipping. Your electronics should work when you get them, but to get added features you may want or need to upload a newer firmware. Follow these instructions and you will find that you have a good success rate. You may need an older version of the Arduino environment, as noted in the firmware file section of this document.<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions here http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage in the wiki. The details for installing Sanguino support are on the Sanguino web page (http://sanguino.cc/softwareforlinux). The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
The pinout map created by TechZone has both the Arduino pin names (for programming purposes) and, where appropriate a component or useage name for the pin. We have done this in hopes that it makes it easier to reference and modify the usage of this electronics set.<br />
<br />
==Mainboard==<br />
<br />
[[File:MainBoardPinout.jpg]1000]<br />
<br />
==Tip Manager and Bed Manager==<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28840Monotronics2011-02-22T02:24:18Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Mainboard */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too busy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
'''ANOTHER NOTE''' Several people have had problems uploading the firmware from the Arduino v22 environment, I have not yet investigated this, please use an older version of arduino to upload this firmware. I have used V17, V18, and V19 they all seem to work fine.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
==Software Recommendations==<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
TechZone ships the electronics with the newest firmware which they have at the time of shipping. Your electronics should work when you get them, but to get added features you may want or need to upload a newer firmware. Follow these instructions and you will find that you have a good success rate. You may need an older version of the Arduino environment, as noted in the firmware file section of this document.<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions here http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage in the wiki. The details for installing Sanguino support are on the Sanguino web page (http://sanguino.cc/softwareforlinux). The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
The pinout map created by TechZone has both the Arduino pin names (for programming purposes) and, where appropriate a component or useage name for the pin. We have done this in hopes that it makes it easier to reference and modify the usage of this electronics set.<br />
<br />
==Mainboard==<br />
<br />
[[File:MainBoardPinout.jpg|1000]]<br />
<br />
==Tip Manager and Bed Manager==<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28839Monotronics2011-02-22T02:24:00Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Mainboard */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too busy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
'''ANOTHER NOTE''' Several people have had problems uploading the firmware from the Arduino v22 environment, I have not yet investigated this, please use an older version of arduino to upload this firmware. I have used V17, V18, and V19 they all seem to work fine.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
==Software Recommendations==<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
TechZone ships the electronics with the newest firmware which they have at the time of shipping. Your electronics should work when you get them, but to get added features you may want or need to upload a newer firmware. Follow these instructions and you will find that you have a good success rate. You may need an older version of the Arduino environment, as noted in the firmware file section of this document.<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions here http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage in the wiki. The details for installing Sanguino support are on the Sanguino web page (http://sanguino.cc/softwareforlinux). The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
The pinout map created by TechZone has both the Arduino pin names (for programming purposes) and, where appropriate a component or useage name for the pin. We have done this in hopes that it makes it easier to reference and modify the usage of this electronics set.<br />
<br />
==Mainboard==<br />
<br />
[[File:MainBoardPinout.jpg]|1000]<br />
<br />
==Tip Manager and Bed Manager==<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28838Monotronics2011-02-22T02:23:25Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Mainboard */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too busy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
'''ANOTHER NOTE''' Several people have had problems uploading the firmware from the Arduino v22 environment, I have not yet investigated this, please use an older version of arduino to upload this firmware. I have used V17, V18, and V19 they all seem to work fine.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
==Software Recommendations==<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
TechZone ships the electronics with the newest firmware which they have at the time of shipping. Your electronics should work when you get them, but to get added features you may want or need to upload a newer firmware. Follow these instructions and you will find that you have a good success rate. You may need an older version of the Arduino environment, as noted in the firmware file section of this document.<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions here http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage in the wiki. The details for installing Sanguino support are on the Sanguino web page (http://sanguino.cc/softwareforlinux). The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
The pinout map created by TechZone has both the Arduino pin names (for programming purposes) and, where appropriate a component or useage name for the pin. We have done this in hopes that it makes it easier to reference and modify the usage of this electronics set.<br />
<br />
==Mainboard==<br />
<br />
[[File:MainBoardPinout.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==Tip Manager and Bed Manager==<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28837Monotronics2011-02-22T02:23:05Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Mainboard */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too busy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
'''ANOTHER NOTE''' Several people have had problems uploading the firmware from the Arduino v22 environment, I have not yet investigated this, please use an older version of arduino to upload this firmware. I have used V17, V18, and V19 they all seem to work fine.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
==Software Recommendations==<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
TechZone ships the electronics with the newest firmware which they have at the time of shipping. Your electronics should work when you get them, but to get added features you may want or need to upload a newer firmware. Follow these instructions and you will find that you have a good success rate. You may need an older version of the Arduino environment, as noted in the firmware file section of this document.<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions here http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage in the wiki. The details for installing Sanguino support are on the Sanguino web page (http://sanguino.cc/softwareforlinux). The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
The pinout map created by TechZone has both the Arduino pin names (for programming purposes) and, where appropriate a component or useage name for the pin. We have done this in hopes that it makes it easier to reference and modify the usage of this electronics set.<br />
<br />
==Mainboard==<br />
<br />
[[File:MainBoardPinout.jpg|800px]]<br />
<br />
==Tip Manager and Bed Manager==<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28593Monotronics2011-02-18T20:36:41Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Pinout Maps */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too busy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
'''ANOTHER NOTE''' Several people have had problems uploading the firmware from the Arduino v22 environment, I have not yet investigated this, please use an older version of arduino to upload this firmware. I have used V17, V18, and V19 they all seem to work fine.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
==Software Recommendations==<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
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Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
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<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
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It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
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NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
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<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
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<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
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If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
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<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
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<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
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<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
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All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
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<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
TechZone ships the electronics with the newest firmware which they have at the time of shipping. Your electronics should work when you get them, but to get added features you may want or need to upload a newer firmware. Follow these instructions and you will find that you have a good success rate. You may need an older version of the Arduino environment, as noted in the firmware file section of this document.<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions HERE (link needed) in the wiki. The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
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'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
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<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
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[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
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[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
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As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
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<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
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The pinout map created by TechZone has both the Arduino pin names (for programming purposes) and, where appropriate a component or useage name for the pin. We have done this in hopes that it makes it easier to reference and modify the usage of this electronics set.<br />
<br />
==Mainboard==<br />
<br />
<br />
==Tip Manager and Bed Manager==<br />
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'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
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[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
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=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28569Monotronics2011-02-18T10:21:08Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Uploading the Firmware */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too busy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
'''ANOTHER NOTE''' Several people have had problems uploading the firmware from the Arduino v22 environment, I have not yet investigated this, please use an older version of arduino to upload this firmware. I have used V17, V18, and V19 they all seem to work fine.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
==Software Recommendations==<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
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<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
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IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
TechZone ships the electronics with the newest firmware which they have at the time of shipping. Your electronics should work when you get them, but to get added features you may want or need to upload a newer firmware. Follow these instructions and you will find that you have a good success rate. You may need an older version of the Arduino environment, as noted in the firmware file section of this document.<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions HERE (link needed) in the wiki. The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
I have created 2 pinout maps. One which shows the common names of connectors (like what is on the board). The other has the Arduino pin names on the various connections - for programming and reference purposes.<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28568Monotronics2011-02-18T10:18:30Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Firmware */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too busy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
'''ANOTHER NOTE''' Several people have had problems uploading the firmware from the Arduino v22 environment, I have not yet investigated this, please use an older version of arduino to upload this firmware. I have used V17, V18, and V19 they all seem to work fine.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
==Software Recommendations==<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions HERE (link needed) in the wiki. The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
I have created 2 pinout maps. One which shows the common names of connectors (like what is on the board). The other has the Arduino pin names on the various connections - for programming and reference purposes.<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28567Monotronics2011-02-18T09:50:29Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Installation */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too busy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
==Software Recommendations==<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions HERE (link needed) in the wiki. The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
I have created 2 pinout maps. One which shows the common names of connectors (like what is on the board). The other has the Arduino pin names on the various connections - for programming and reference purposes.<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28566Monotronics2011-02-18T09:49:14Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Firmware */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too busy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions HERE (link needed) in the wiki. The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
I have created 2 pinout maps. One which shows the common names of connectors (like what is on the board). The other has the Arduino pin names on the various connections - for programming and reference purposes.<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip&diff=28565File:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip2011-02-18T09:48:06Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip&diff=28564File:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip2011-02-18T09:43:52Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28563Monotronics2011-02-18T09:41:59Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Design Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS AUXILIARY BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too lazy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions HERE (link needed) in the wiki. The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
I have created 2 pinout maps. One which shows the common names of connectors (like what is on the board). The other has the Arduino pin names on the various connections - for programming and reference purposes.<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28562Monotronics2011-02-18T09:41:12Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Design Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
'''Mainboard'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Tip Manager and Bed Manager'''<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS Auxilary BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsAuxSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too lazy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions HERE (link needed) in the wiki. The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
I have created 2 pinout maps. One which shows the common names of connectors (like what is on the board). The other has the Arduino pin names on the various connections - for programming and reference purposes.<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28561Monotronics2011-02-18T09:39:09Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Design Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too lazy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions HERE (link needed) in the wiki. The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
I have created 2 pinout maps. One which shows the common names of connectors (like what is on the board). The other has the Arduino pin names on the various connections - for programming and reference purposes.<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:MonotronicsPCB.zip&diff=28560File:MonotronicsPCB.zip2011-02-18T09:38:24Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip&diff=28559File:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip2011-02-18T09:37:35Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28558Monotronics2011-02-18T09:37:05Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Design Files (Coming soon!!!) */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files==<br />
<br />
In addition to these source files, you may find the pinout maps (see section below) to be helpful.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| PDF files for PCB layout<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a separate Pdf for each layer of the PCB file<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCBLayers-pdf.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a the drawing as it was created in PCB Artist (A free, but proprietary PCB drawing tool)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsPCB.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| Original PCB Drawing<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| This file contains a the schematic as an svg file. We started with the PCB file, not with the schematic (Yes, I know that is backwards)<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsSCH.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too lazy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions HERE (link needed) in the wiki. The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
I have created 2 pinout maps. One which shows the common names of connectors (like what is on the board). The other has the Arduino pin names on the various connections - for programming and reference purposes.<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28556Monotronics2011-02-18T09:02:37Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Firmware */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files (Coming soon!!!)==<br />
<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| Your-File-Name<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| These are the files you need to make a set of boards<br />
| [[media:Monotronics_design_files.xml.zip|.xml.zip]]<br />
| [[User:Example User|--Example User]] 12:00, Today's Date 20xx (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Please_Upload_Files}}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Feb 18, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too lazy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions HERE (link needed) in the wiki. The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
I have created 2 pinout maps. One which shows the common names of connectors (like what is on the board). The other has the Arduino pin names on the various connections - for programming and reference purposes.<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Monotronics&diff=28555Monotronics2011-02-18T09:02:04Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Firmware */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = Monotronics.jpg<br />
|name = Example Development<br />
|description = A single-board electronics config designed by TechZone<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Example_User<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
=General= <br />
<br />
The RepRap Monolithic Electronics set (also known as the Monotronics) is a new design, based upon the Generation 3 electronics. It is using the same underlying Sanguino (Atmega 644p) processor and the same stepper controller circuit. We considered using one of the newer, more "faddish" stepper controller chips and decided against it (see design considerations below for more details and our logic process). This electronics set is designed to be a versatile, trouble free, easy to install electronics set. It should vastly simplify the wiring and make your RepRap build look much cleaner.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
----<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
==Design Files (Coming soon!!!)==<br />
<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| Your-File-Name<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| These are the files you need to make a set of boards<br />
| [[media:Monotronics_design_files.xml.zip|.xml.zip]]<br />
| [[User:Example User|--Example User]] 12:00, Today's Date 20xx (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Please_Upload_Files}}<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
We Now have a new firmware, we have added some backwards compatability to it so that the windows version of RepSnapper would show the temperature correctly.<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware Feb 18, 2011<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware <br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics released Feb 18, 2011<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmware02182011.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''': This firmware is developed from the RepRap firmware. We add to it some code for communications with the tip manager and re-publish it. We use this same firmware as a basis for our Generation 3 electronics firmware. All the ancillary code that is not specifically used is left in place so that it can be compared to the original RepRap firmware (besides the fact that I am too lazy to figure out all the pieces which are no longer used and remove them).<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
Here at TechZoneCommunications, we use [[RepSnapper]] as our host software. We do not think that RepSnapper has the most features of all the different options out there, but for our purposes, we have found it to be the most stable. The other two common host software packages are [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|RepRap Host]], and [[ReplicatorG]]. RepRap Host uses the same firmware and is the official host software of the RepRap project (at least that is how I understand it - corrections are welcome here). What we have found, is that both RepRap Host and ReplicatorG are written on the Java platform, and as such have inherited any quirks or flaws inherent to that platform (yes, there are some, even though Oracle - formerly Sun Microsystems - would have you believe otherwise). RepSnapper was writen in C and seems to be very stable for us.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you use RepSnapper to connect and test your electronics, then, after you know that everything is working, you can switch to a different host software. In this way, if you have problems in the future, you will know it is MOST likely something with the software, not with the electronics. The same firmware from above should work with RepRap Host, you will have to customize your own firmware to work with ReplicatorG (Or convince me to take the time to do it...)<br />
<br />
==Adjust the Motors==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotors.jpg|border|left|250px|The Motors connected to the mainboard on the bench]][[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]]I start by connecting the motors to the mainboard (see below for wire order), on a workbench. The purpose of this is to adjust the trimpots so the stepper motor driver provides the correct current to the stepper motor. Too little current and your stepper motor will skip steps, too much and it will heat up and warp the plastic motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I go ahead and hook up all four motors, but you could use one motor (especially if all the others are already attached to your machine) and move it from one motor controller to the next, adjusting one of them at a time. With all the motors hooked up, you can connect the 12v power. The X axis, the Y axis and the Extruder are the only motors which are always activated, and so they are the only ones you can adjust by temperature. The Z axis only activates when it is being used, so after the other three are adjusted, I would adjust the Z to about the same position on the trimpot.<br />
<br />
You don't need to connect the USB to your computer to get this first adjustment. After letting the electronics and motors sit for about 20 minutes, I check the temperature of the motors. I use an IR thermometer, but you can do it with your sense of touch (not as precise, but it should work fine). I want to get my motors to where they are running at 50 degrees celcius or less, most of mine are adjusted to be closer to 40 degrees. I have found that if they are hotter than that, then I am loosing torque due to the increased resistance of the hot windings... which creates a weaker magnetic feild. This is an example of a case where more is not better. If you are using your hand, 50 degrees feels uncomfortably hot still, but not unbearably hot, 40 degrees feels like a warmish/hot shower.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
To turn it down, adjust the trimpot counter clockwise. To turn it up, adjust it clockwise. The trimpot is extremely sensitive, so very small adjustments may make a big difference. I would adjust about 1/8th of a turn at a time to start with, then fine tune it with even smaller adjustments. Below are images of each of the motors being adjusted. Click on the image to see it larger (true of most images here in the wiki)<br />
<br />
IF you have the USB connected to your computer and host software connected to it, you should be able to tell the machine to turn your motors at this time and they should obey.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): It is possible to reverse the direction of the motors by changing the sequence of the wiring. By replacing the Blue-Red-Green-Black order with Green-Black-Blue-Red the motor will turn clockwise when they previously did counter clockwise and vice versa. This could possibly be set in software too, but I have yet to discover that option.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:BenM|BenM]] 13:52, 17 February 2011 (UTC)): A different way to adjust the motor current is to hook up all but one of the wires and then run a piece of scrap wire from the free terminal block to an Ammeter (set to A not mA) and then back to the unattached cable (using crocodile clamps). You can then monitor the approximate current to the motor as you adjust the pots. Note that it depends on whether a single coil or two coils are on so you will want to set it to a value and then step the motor in software a small distance to see if the current increases or decreases. The value for the STP-42D241 should be 0.4A/Phase for good operation.</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE About endstops and motors turning both directions''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153); padding: 1em;">(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 00:01, 27 January 2011 (UTC)): When the optostops are NOT connected, the board reads them as being in the home position. As the result, if you are trying to test the motors from the PC (using direct control commands in RepSnapper or other host program), the motors would go forward, but not backward (might just jerk a little, especially the Z motor). Do connect the optos and the motors will move both ways!</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file:HuxleyAdjustExtruder.jpg|Adjusting the Extruder Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustX.jpg|Adjusting the X Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustY.jpg|Adjusting the Y Axis Motor<br />
file:HuxleyAdjustZ.jpg|Adjusting the Z Axis Motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Further Bench Test(s)==<br />
<br />
While we have the system out on the bench, I like to check and make sure that the mainboard and the tip manager are talking as they should. This is very simple to do. I unhook the 12v from the system, since it is not needed for this test. The first thing to look at is the temperature your host software is reporting to you. With the correct firmware (from Files above) installed and your host software communicating with the board, it should report a temperature of 2511 for both the tip manager and the Heated Bed Manager. If you are not seeing 2511 then one of two things is wrong (OK, maybe three things). The software is not connecting to the mainboard, or the mainboard has the wrong firmware; the third possibility is that the board is bad...<br />
<br />
I would troubleshoot the above situation by re-flashing the mainboard. If it flashes correctly then it is 99% likely that it will report 2511 when your host software connects to it. I would then start checking the software to make sure it is working as it should... check the com port(s), check the computers OS, etc. I have seen a very high level of success running RepSnapper on 32 bit operating systems, the jury is still out on 64 bit operating systems - although it should work. <br />
<br />
Next, take a tip manager and connect it to the mainboard with the RJ45 cable (a standard ethernet cable will work if you need a replacement). When you plug it in, the tip manager should immediately start reporting the room temperature to you. If you connect the same tip manager into the heated bed manager location, you should get room temperature for the heated bed temperature. Yes, it reports a temperature even without the thermocouple connected.<br />
<br />
==Connecting the Motor(s)==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyBenchMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close-up of the motor wires]][[Image:HuxleyOneMotorWires.jpg|border|right|250px|A close-up of the motor wire sequence]]If you have read very much information about RepRap and the various electronics and motors... then you know that there are lots of motors out there that work... and many that don't. The first thing you should know is that your motor needs to be a bidirectional stepper motor, which has 6 ohms of resistance per phase or more. Although many people run motors with less resistance, it is not a good idea, and it has the possibility of drawing more current than the controller chip can handle, thereby frying the chip.<br />
<br />
A TECHNICAL NOTE ABOUT UNIDIRECTIONAL STEPPER MOTORS - If you have a unidirectional motor, you can wire it up in bidirectional mode (most of the time). I am not going to go into details here about how to do that, but the information is available on the web.. and someday I may create a wiki entry about doing this. I mention it because it may make finding a motor easier.. also because when you connect a unidirectional motor up in bidirectional mode, it combines two of the phases, so each separate phase from a unidirectional motor can be as low as 3 ohms, which will give you 6 ohms when you hook it up in bidirctional mode.<br />
<br />
There are lots of different wire colors for stepper motors, but the most common are blue, red, green, and black wires. These motors are connected with the wire sequence of Blue-Red-Green-Black. If when you connect your motor, it causes the axis or extruder to move backwards from what you tell it, the simply mirror your wire connection (ie Black-Green-Red-Blue). On the right is a picture of this most common sequence. The pictures at the bottom of this gallery show some other wire colors as they should be connected to the stepper controller.<br />
<br />
Most motors come with more wire than is needed, I recommend cuting the excess off, after the motor is mounted. Leave enough slack for the X axis motor to move up and down the Z axis and for the extruder which is not attached to the frame.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: RedGreenBlueYellow.jpg<br />
file: blackOrangeRedYellow.jpg <br />
file: YellowRedOrangeBrown.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Install the Mounting Board==<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley board mounting.JPG|200px|right]] The mounting board is not really part of the electronics set. It is, however required in some form. The mounting board we ship with the "TechZone Huxley Kit" , or with the "LaserCut Mendel with Monotronics Kit" has a peculiar shape and is designed to be mounted to the side of the machine. I mount it to the side which is closest to the motors, to reduce the wire length needed.<br />
<br />
It simply fastens to the frame using some of the small zip ties that came in your kit.<br />
<br />
NOTE: Pictures of various Mendels often show the thick sheet with the electronics mounted in front of the frame between the two threaded bar. UNLIKE that, in TechZone's design the board MUST be placed on the side of the machine, otherwise just too many things are getting in the way. Specifically, in this position the "network" cable between the main board and the tip control sub-board (fixed on the X caret) can move freely with the caret.<br />
<br />
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<br />
==Mounting The Electronics==<br />
<br />
If you have been following the Huxley build instructions (or most other RepRap instructions) you will have already mounted the opto-endstops.<br />
<br />
I like to mount the Monotronics board to the Mounting board with 3mm bolts and screws. You can use plastic stand-off feet, or wire ties, or even hot glue if you prefer. If using the 3mm bolts, be careful to make sure that the bolts cannot short out any of the components on the board.<br />
<br />
==Connect The Endstop(s)==<br />
One of the most common mistakes, is to hook all the endstops up at once, then power the electronics up and see what happens. IF you have them hooked up wrong, you just fried all three. I suggest that you hook up one and test it, then if that goes well, hook up the next one and test it... etc.. then they are all done and working. You will probably want to click on the images, to be able to see the details or read the text on them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopPins.jpg|border|left|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]][[Image:MonotronicsEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The pins are labeled in this photo]]To the left is a photo of the Monotronics (click to enlarge), with the pin outs of the opto-endstops labeled. On the Right is the endstop itself, with the pin outs labeled.<br />
<br />
If you want to be cautious and make sure you don't mix up the pin connections of your endstops, you can take a permanent marker and mark the 5v side of the endstop. This is where I will put the colored edge of the wire. (see photo below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsMarkEndstop.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsMarkedEndstop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:MonotronicsEndstopConnected.jpg|border|right|250px|An endstop connected to the Monotronics]]A three pin wire is used to connect the two together, as shown on the right, some close up details are shown below. For clearity, this wire connection is shown NOT installed in the machine, you will want to connect yours in the machine. The connector fits quite nicely on the main board, it only sort of fits on the endstop. I like to use a dab of hot glue on the endstop end so that the connector doesn't vibrate off while printing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): I found it more convenient to remove the white plastic tab, de-solder the pins from the tiny PCB on the opto, then just solder the cable directly to it. The benefits are: (a) avoid problems with the badly fitting connector; (b) 3 less connectors to crimp manually; (c) there is not much room on the Huxley to fix the optos, removing the tab + connector makes fitting them easier.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' TechZone is looking for some pre-assembled cables with the correct ends on them, if you know of a good source, please let us know.<br />
<br />
All three endstops are handled the same, the connector furthest to the left is the Z Axis, the one in the middle is the Y axis and the one on the right is the X axis.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopBoardEnd.jpg<br />
file: MonotronicsCloseUpEndstopEnd.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Uploading the Firmware=<br />
<br />
This quick tutorial assumes that you already have the Arduino/Sanguino software properly installed. If you do not yet have the software installed and configured you can find instructions HERE (link needed) in the wiki. The process below will work with other RepRap boards as well - just use the appropriate file for them. There are multiple ways to do this (variations of details), we have found that the following procedure works quite well. You may need to click on the images, to see where the mouse is on the screenshots.<br />
<br />
'''Windows 7 Users, this may help'''<br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): when connecting the Monotronics to Windows 7 (I use 64-bit Windows, presumably the 32-bit version would behave the same), the USB driver as well as the serial-on-USB get installed automatically the first time you plug in the board. '''Remember the serial port number''' Windows reports during the installation! On my machine, it happens to be "COM3:", but that could vary. What you do have to check, is that both the '''serial port''' and the '''connection speed''' are correctly set in Arduino. If you are not very familiar with the environment (I'm not), here is how to find the speed setting: open the "Serial Monitor" window (using either a toolbar button or Ctrl-Shift-M) and look there. Set the speed to 19200. </blockquote><br />
<br />
'''Regarding the Reset button''' <br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): at least in my setup (and I don't see how it can be any different on other computers connecting to the same board) I do NOT NEED to touch or hold Reset to upload the firmware from Arduino. I think much of the "things just don't work unless you press all the buttons you can think of" confusion may be caused by forgetting to set the connection speed (the default seems to be 9600 in Arduino and 19200 in the serial-to-USB driver).</blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]])Correction: the Arduino bootloader is supposed to wait for an upload "a few seconds" after a reset, then pass control to the currently loaded firmware. According to that, you have to click Reset (but not hold it), then immediately start the upload. </blockquote><br />
<blockquote style="background: white; border: 1px solid rgb(153, 153, 153);padding: 1em;"><br />
(--[[User:kymberlyaandrus|TechZone]])The reason that we hold the reset in, is that it can take a while to build the firmware before it begins to transfer the file (depending upon the computer of course), if you hold it in until the right moment, then letting go will make sure that the board is in a ready state to receive the data from the arduino environment. The Idea of holding in the reset is simply a universal way of explaining to a wide variety of users how to get the timing of the reset to work well. Feel free to try it both ways.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyOpenFile.png|border|right|250px|Open the file you downloaded]]Download the firmware from the files section above and unzip it to a location you can find in the next few steps It should create several sub directories with files in them.<br />
Open the Arduino environment, click on File - Open <br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FindFile.png|border|right|250px|Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the file]]Navigate to where you unzipped the file from above.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FiveD_Gcode.png|border|right|250px|Open FiveD_Gcode]]Open the FiveD_GCode folder<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:BoardType.png|border|right|250px|Open Extruder or Motherboard/Monolithic]]To upload the firmware to the monolithic, select the FiveD_GCodeInterpreter, if you are updating firmware on Generation 3 electronics, you would use this selection for the mainboard and the Extruder file for the extruder (you would need a different firmware, obtained for the Generation 3 electronics).<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SelectTopRight.png|border|right|250px|Open the file on the top right]]Select the file on the top right, as shown in the picture on the right<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:FirmwareType.png|border|right|250px|Select Firmware type, Sanguino for Monolithic]]We need to make sure that the Arduino environment knows which type of board we are loading to: for the Monotlithic, and the mainboard on the Gen 3 electronics select Sanguino, for the extruder controller in the Gen 3 electronics select Diecimila.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:SerialPorts.png|border|right|250px|Select the correct serial port]]Make sure the correct serial port is selected, it should be a USB port that the machine found when you plugged the board in. You may need to unplug other USB devices for it to find the correct device<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:UploadButton.png|border|right|250px|Tell it to upload and hold the reset switch]]Click on the upload button in the Arduino program. As soon as you click this, hold the reset button down on the board.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:ResetPoint.png|border|right|250px|Release the reset switch as soon as you see this]]As soon as the file size (circled text in the image to the right) is reported, let go of the reset button.<br />
<br />
<br />
As it uploads, the debug LED will flash, when it is done the Arduino program will report that it is done.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Pinout Maps=<br />
<br />
We tried to label most of the connections on the mainboard as clearly as we could. There is a block of pins on the left side of the board, near the USB connector, which are not labled. these pins are intended for creative people to be able to add features or peripherals as they would like.<br />
<br />
I have created 2 pinout maps. One which shows the common names of connectors (like what is on the board). The other has the Arduino pin names on the various connections - for programming and reference purposes.<br />
<br />
'''NOTE''' (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]]): until Lambert provides a better info, here is how to connect the tip manager sub-board:<br />
<br />
[[File:TechZone_tip_controller_pinout.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Generation_3_Electronics/Tech_Zone_Remix/Installation&diff=28384Generation 3 Electronics/Tech Zone Remix/Installation2011-02-15T04:09:40Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Connecting in the TechZone Thermocouple A/D converter */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{merge|Generation_3_Electronics/Tech_Zone_Remix/How to}}<br />
<br />
= Overview =<br />
<br />
This page will attempt to provide information on how to connect all of the RepRap Generation 3 [http://www.techzonecom.com/detail.php?pr+id=21 TechZone Remix] electroncis together, and make sure they are performing as they should.<br />
<br />
para leer esta pajina en espanol oprima aqui [[instalacion en espanol]]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
== General information ==<br />
The following instructions are provided by [http://www.techzonecom.com TechZoneCommunications] and apply to the connections of the electronics sold by them. For source code and other information about these electronics you can see this page: [[Generation_3_Electronics/Tech_Zone_Remix]]<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
= Making the Cables (I know, they are a pain...)=<br />
<br />
The majority of the problems that users first run into, as they assemble and connect their RepRap electronics, are related to the assembly of the cables. It is important to make sure your cables are properly assembled, and test them to make sure that they have good continuity.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Ten Pin Cables With Black IDC Connectors== <br />
<br />
[[Image:TenPinCable.jpg|border|left|250px|The assembled ten pin cable]]<br />
[[Image:TenPinPositionConnector.jpg|border|right|250px|Positioning the cable over the connectors.]]<br />
[[Image:TenPinCablePressCap.jpg|border|left|250px|pressing the cap onto the connector]]<br />
[[Image:TenPinFinishedEnd.jpg|border|right|250px|A photo of a finished end]]<br />
The ten pin cables are fairly straight forward. You simply lay the cable on top of the contacts (top right photo) and then place the "cap" over them. I use a board to press the cap on evenly (like in the second photo on the right), since uneven pressure may result in a broken cap and incomplete electrical connection in the cable. <br />
<br />
What you need to watch out for on these cables is to put the red edge the same direction for BOTH ends of the cable (look closely at the top left photo for details), if you get one end backwards from the other, then the cable will not work as it should.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==Two, Three, and six pin cables==<br />
<br />
[[Image:ThreePinCable.jpg|border|left|250px|The assembled three pin cable]]<br />
[[Image:ThreePinWireSpread.jpg|border|right|250px|Spread the wires to fit the connector.]]<br />
[[Image:ThreePinPositionConnector.jpg|border|left|250px|Positioning the wires behind the contacts.]]<br />
[[Image:ThreePinCablePresswire.jpg|border|right|250px|pressing the wire into the contacts]]<br />
[[Image:ThreePinTest.jpg|border|left|250px|Testing the cable]]These cables may have white, blue or green connectors, they work the same way regardless of the color. all three sizes of connectors are assembled in the same manner. Some people prefer to scavenge connectors off of old computers or other electronics, rather than assembling these cables... this is also fine.<br />
<br />
The cables need to be split and separated near the ends, so that they will fit the spacing of these connectors. <br />
<br />
You then tuck the end of the cable into the space just past the IDC contacts in the connector. You can then press the cable down into the IDC contacts using a small screw driver or other thin, rigid tool. <br />
<br />
I have had my best success using a small piece of sheet metal, with the edges curled over so that I don't cut myself while pressing the cables in. If you don't have a small enough flat blade screw driver (one that is too large will spread the contacts and they will never sever the insulation to make contact with the wire inside), you can cut a notch into your screw driver, so that it can press down on the cable on each side of the contacts.<br />
<br />
When your cables are done being assembled, you can test them with a multimeter, just touch the probes to the metal that is revealed on the side of the connectors.<br />
<br />
The pictures show a three pin cable being assembled, but all the cables are assembled in the same manner.<br />
<br />
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<br />
= Hooking up the RepRap Main board =<br />
[[Image:MainBoardWiring.jpg|border|left|250px|Shows all the wires connected stepper controller]]<br />
[[Image:MainBoardWiring2.jpg|border|right|250px|A close up of the power wires.]]<br />
These two pictures show the RepRap mainboard all wired up. the picture on the left does not have the two, two pin wires connected, so that they don't get in the way of viewing the others.<br />
<br />
The USB to TTL adapter connects to the RepRap mainboard with a six pin cable. The six pin cable connects on the left of the board, and the "keyed" pin is to the top (opposite of what the extruder board 6 pin key is set to). The board gets its power from the USB port, so that the board is powered on when this cable is connected.<br />
<br />
The X, Y, and Z axis connect to the top of the RepRap mainboard with ten pin connectors. Each cable runs to its respective stepper controller.<br />
<br />
The two pin connectors both go to the extruder controller, the one on the top is the SDA/SCL pins and carries the step and direction information for the extruder's stepper motor. the lower cable is RS485 and can connect to any of the four sets of pins on the RepRap mainboard. The keying on this connector is down in the photo. You can connect up to 4 extruders to the RepRap mainboard.<br />
<br />
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<br />
= Hooking a Stepper Controller to your RepRap =<br />
<br />
[[Image:StepperControllerWiring.jpg|border|left|250px|Shows all the wires connected stepper controller]]<br />
[[Image:StepperControllerPower.jpg|border|right|250px|A close up of the power wires.]]<br />
[[Image:StepperControllerMotorWires.jpg|border|left|250px|A close up of the motor wires]]<br />
[[Image:StepperControllerMotorWires2.jpg|border|right|250px|Another close up of the motor wires, with a different set of wire colors.]]<br />
On the top left, is a photo of the stepper controller, with all the wires hooke up to it. <br />
<br />
The ten pin connector connects to the correct location on the RepRap mainboard (X, Y, or Z) as you make that cable, make sure that ''both'' ends have the color coded portion the same direction, if you put your cable together with the red stripe at the opposite end of the connector from what I have, then your cable will appear to be reversed from mine. This is OK as long as both ends are done the same.<br />
<br />
The top photo on the right shows the power connection to the stepper controller. The yellow wire in this photo is the 12v+ and the black wire is the 12v- the terminal blocks should be labeled.<br />
<br />
The second photo down on both the left and right shows the connection of the stepper motor wires. The left photo shows the blue, red, green, and black and the right photo shows another colored set. If your motor is going the opposite direction from what you expect, then swap them by 180 degrees, for example switch blue and black with each other and switch red and green with each other.<br />
<br />
More information about stepper motor wiring can be found at [[Stepper_wiring]] This may also help you connect different types of stepper motors.<br />
<br />
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<br />
==Connecting the Opto Endstop==<br />
<br />
[[Image:OptoEndstopWiring.jpg|border|right|250px|shows the direction of the cable connection to the opto endstop.]]<br />
A few months back, the manufacturer of the Photo Interrupt detector used in the Endstops (both [http://www.techzonecom.com TechZoneCommunications] and [http://www.makerbot.com Makerbot] variants) was discontinued. It is becoming very difficult to get the sensor used in the earlier designs of EndStops. [http://www.techzonecom.com TechZoneCommunications] has begun to use a different endstop with the RepRap, which is a plug in replacement. It does not need different cabling, nor does it need to have any changes made to the software. However, it does not have an LED on it, so there is nothing to let you know it is plugged in correctly - The new Photo Interrupt was not rated to a high enough current to drive both the LED and to pull the processor pin high (I know, I tried, in spite of what the specs said).<br />
<br />
The older variation is connected as shown in the photo on the right. The three pin connector of a cable you made following steps shown above, is connected to the opto endstop, as shown in this photo, Notice the red strip on the cable (it is a little hard to see, but you can click on the image to see the original size/resolution). The red stripe is carrying the 5v the middle wire carries the signal back to the processor, and the third wire is the ground wire.<br />
<br />
'''NOTE:''' For those of you who are used to looking at the "Square pad" on the boards to match up the polarity of the cable, forget it on this part, many of them were manufactured with that pad backwards! So, here is how you get the Red side correct on both ends of the cable: On the Stepper controller, the red goes towards the power regulator (that is the black thing with the silver back which is standing up near the power connection terminals). On the endstop, it goes on the pin furthest from the LED, the led is the little white thing on the bottom left of the opto endstop. The third picture on the right is the Endstop with the cable connected you can click it to enlarge and see the red on the cable more clearly. In this configuration, the red wire is carrying the 5v<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:NewOptoEndstopWiring.jpg|border|left|250px|shows the direction of the cable connection to the opto endstop.]]<br />
The New Opto endstop is smaller yet, and has the three pins coming out of the end of the sensor. The only drawback to this sensor is that it does not have an LED (see information a few paragraphs up). The picture on the left shows the cable connected to this opto endstop.<br />
<br />
This picture shows the Opto Endstop as I mounted it on the X axis of one of my RepRaps, It is fastened to the X Axis with a small screw, and I put it on upside down (I usually put them on right side up, but I had cut the flag weird... so I improvised). With it upside down, the pin closest to us is the 5v pin (red in this case, read the above information on the old opto endstop for more details on getting the cable polarity to match.<br />
<br />
Since there is no LED on the endstop, [http://www.techzonecom.com TechZoneCommunications] has begun to include a fourth endstop in the electronics kit, so that if you burn one up you don't have to wait for us to send you a new one. Rest assured, if you are having problems with your endstop, TechZone will send you replacements as needed. Just contact them [http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]<br />
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<br />
Several people have asked about mounting the Opto Endstops to their RepRap. Creativity will probably provide a better way of doing this, but here are some photos of how I mounted some opto-endstops and the thin sheet flags to a couple of my RepRaps:<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:100 1842.JPG<br />
File:100 1843.JPG <br />
File:100 1844.JPG <br />
File:100 1845.JPG <br />
File:100 1846.JPG <br />
File:100 1847.JPG <br />
File:100 1848.JPG <br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
= Connecting the Extruder Controller =<br />
<br />
There are several wires that hook into the extruder controller. The photos and descriptions below have most of the wires not featured in the photo removed, for clarity. You will need to hook all the wires up, before it will work completely.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
== Connecting Power, Motors, and Other Loads to the Extruder Controller==<br />
The screw terminal blocks, should be labeled, and fairly self explanatory, but I know that Photos are far more effective than words (or in this case labels).<br />
<br />
[[Image:ExtruderTerminalWiring.jpg|border|left|250px|Shows all the wires connected to screw terminals]]<br />
[[Image:ExtruderPowerNHeater.jpg|border|right|250px|Shows the power wires and the wires connected to the heater on the extruder tip.]][[Image:ExtruderMotorWiring.jpg|border|left|250px|Shows the motor wires]][[Image:ExtruderMotorWiring2.jpg|border|right|250px|Another set of motor wires.]]The top picture on the left is a photo of all the wires going into the screw terminals (all other wires have been removed for clarity). On the right, the power wires are connected, as are the two wires leads for the heater on the extruder tip. The power wires are polarized and the 12v + should be connected to the second position (yellow in this photo) and the 12v- (or ground) should be connected to the first position (black in this photo). <br />
<br />
The heater leads are red and orange in this photo, but it does not matter the color, or order of these wires. They are connected to the C position on the terminal blocks.<br />
<br />
A and B positions on these terminal blocks can be programmed for other loads, such as a cooling fan, or a heated bed.<br />
<br />
The second photo on the left is of the motor wires. I have used the most common color of wires, but your may be different. If the motor direction is reversed from what you expect, then simply flip all the wires 180 degrees, by swapping blue with black, and red with green.<br />
<br />
The second photo on the right is just like the photo on the left, but with a different colored set of wires<br />
<br />
More information about stepper motor wiring can be found at [[Stepper_wiring]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
== Connecting the RepRap Mainboard to the Extruder Controller ==<br />
<br />
[[Image:MainboardToExtruder.jpg|border|left|250px|Both of the wires that connect the Mainboard to the Extruder Board]]<br />
[[Image:MainboardToExtruder-Closeup.jpg|border|right|250px|Close-up of the wires on the Extruder end.]] The RepRap mainboard is connected to the Extruder board with two separate wires. The first wire (shown as the bottom wire in the photo) is the RS485 communications wire, the main board communicates over this wire to the extruder, to give it commands, and to receive information back (like the temperature of the Hot End). The second wire is only needed if you are using a stepper motor with your extruder. It uses the I2C communications port off of the main board and the D9/D10 pins on the extruder Controller. This cable carries the step and direction information for the extruder's stepper motor.<br />
<br />
A little background: These two boards are connected together with 2 wires, in most of the modern implementations of the RepRap, but the original design only used the RS485, and expected you to use a variable speed DC motor for the extruder motor on your RepRap. When the extruder evolved to use stepper motors, someone figured out how to make all of that work (with timings, PWM and other technical stuff I am not going into on this page), but it requires the second connection to pass the working information to the extruder, this is required, because the RS485 communications protocols are not "Fast" enough to deal with the information needed for the stepper motor<br />
<br />
The photo on the right is just a close up of the same wires.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:GuyPommaresElectronics.jpg|border|left|250px|Guy Pommares didn't like the default RepRap electronics mounting board, so he made a different one. (I kinda like it!)]]The photo to the Left is a picture of a RepRap assembled by Guy Pommares. He felt like the front electronics mounting board was in the way, so he made a different one and mounted the electronics on the side. (This picture is posted here with his permission, Thanks Guy!) <br />
<br />
Also of interest in this photo, he made a belt tensioner for the X axis, you can see it near the bottom right of the photo.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
= A few different ways to connect Temperature sensors=<br />
There are several ways to detect the temperature of the hot end of the extruder, below we have shown a couple of them. Use the one which you like on your RepRap<br />
<br />
==The New TechZone Thermocouple A-D with OneWire==<br />
The newest Thermocouple adapter is provided by [http://www.techzonecom.com TechZoneCommunications] and information about hooking it up can be found [[TechZone_Tip_Assembly#Thermocouple_A-D_converter_with_OneWire| here.]] It is called the [http://www.techzonecom.com TechZoneCommunications] Thermocouple A-D with OneWire It is very simple to install and cleans up some of the cable mess between the RepRap electronics and the extruder.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==Connecting in the TechZone Thermocouple A/D converter ==<br />
This converter is obsolete, and no longer manufactured by TechZone. We leave the information about it here for reference purposes for those who have this thermocouple. It has been replaced by the thermocouple adapter referenced in the section above, follow that link for information on how to install it, and to get the firmware which supports it.<br />
<br />
This converter is a variation of the adapter found on the [[Thermocouple_Sensor_1_0]] page, but we have changed the firmware so that you do not need to remove the capacitor as shown in the instructions under that link. (Read that page for background, history, inspiration, whatever, but follow these directions if you received this style A/D converter from [http://www.techzonecom.com TechZoneCommunications])<br />
<br />
For information on the Firmware, and to download the firmware file, see [[TechZone_Thermocouple_Firmware]] page.<br />
<br />
[[Image:ThermocoupleA-DConnection-1.jpg|border|left|250px|This photo shows the 4 pin connection used in the Thermocouple A/D]] [[Image:ThermocoupleA-DConnection-2.jpg|border|right|250px|This photo shows the single wire connection.]]The four pin connector is connected to the four pins on the mainboard as shown in the photo on the left and the single wire is connected into one of the ten pins in the old quadrature connector as shown on the right.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:ThermocoupleConnection-1.jpg|border|left|250px|This is the thermocouple itself connecting to the A/D converter]] [[Image:HeaterWireConnection-2.jpg|border|right|250px|This photo shows connecting the heater wires to the Extruder Controller, these leads are connected to the resistance wire in the tip of the extruder.]]The picture on the left shows the thermocouple as it is connected to the screw terminals on the A-D Converter. The A/D converter itself is mounted somewhere on the extruder, to keep the temperature reading as accurate as possible, I try to mount it somewhere on the extruder, but not directly next to the motor (the motor gets hot). It can be mounted with a small screw, a dab of epoxy, or with some hot glue.<br />
<br />
Before turning your RepRap hot tip on, you need to make sure the thermocouple is connected with the correct polarity. To do this, load the RepRap host software and go to the extruder tab. It should be providing you with a temperature reading. If you put your finger on the tip of the extruder for a minute, you should see that temperature go up. If it goes down, then you have the polarity of the thermocouple reversed and you need to swap the wires.<br />
<br />
The Photo on the right of this text, shows the connection of the heater lead wires to the Extruder Controller. it is the second set of wires from the right side of the 8 terminal block. This picture shows them as red and orange wires. They are not polarized (you can switch them places and it won't matter). I recommend ''not'' hooking these two wires up until you are ready to heat up your extruder tip. That should happen after you test all other aspects of your extruder and know that it works. To test your heater without hooking it up, look at the LED next to the Mosfet, if it is lighting up when you "turn on" your heat, then it is 99% likely to be working as it should.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Here are some more photos to help with the details (a picture is better than any words I can create)<br />
<gallery><br />
File:ThermocouplePic1.jpg<br />
File:ThermocouplePic2.jpg<br />
File:ThermocouplePic3.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
== Using a standard thermistor==<br />
<br />
[[Image:ThermistorConnection.jpg|border|left|250px|The two pins connected to the thermistor inputs on the extruder controller]]The leads from your thermistor can be connected to the two pins, as shown in the photo. Polarity does not matter on this connection.<br />
<br />
When using a thermistor, you will probably need to make changes to your firmware to configure your RepRap to translate the resistance it reads to the correct temperature.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
= Connecting a Stepper Controller to Drive the Extruder Stepper Motor =<br />
<br />
Having hooked a stepper controller up to the extruder motor, and run it that way on my RepRap, I will never go back! It runs much more quietly, and seems to behave much better. I think that the reason for this is that the Extruder Controller is not designed to run a stepper motor, but has been "hacked" to run the stepper motor. Whereas, the Stepper controller is designed to run the stepper motor from the get-go. I found a description about how to do this somewhere (and I thought it was on the Wiki), but could not find it again to share with several of the [http://www.techzonecom.com TechZone] customers who were interested in trying this... so I have created this section.<br />
<br />
You can do this with [http://www.makerbot.com makerbot] electronics as well.<br />
<br />
[[Image:StepperExtruder1.jpg|border|left|250px|This photo shows the cable going from the SDA/SCL of the RepRap mainboard to the ten pin connector on the stepper controller, it also shows the wire used to enable the stepper controller]] [[Image:StepperExtruder2.jpg|border|right|250px|This photo which pins in the ten pin connector are used.]]The process of connecting the Stepper controller to the Extruder stepper motor is fairly easy. Instead of hooking the SCA/SCL pins from the RepRap mainboard to the D9/D10 pins on the extruder board, you hook them to the step and direction pins on the Stepper Controller, as shown on the photos on the left and right (on the left, it is the cable that comes up too close and goes out of focus). You also need to connect the enable pin to ground on the stepper controller. I do this with a jumper wire from a ground pin in the ten pin connector to the enable pin on the controller. It is the single yellow wire in the photos, The enable pin can be hooked to any ground pin, (for example the ground pin on the max opto endstop connector) <br />
<br />
Polarity on the 2 pin wire is important, but if you hook it up backwards, it just won't turn the motor as it should and you can reverse the wire (no smoke and fireworks shows for getting this one backwards).<br />
<br />
Connecting the power and the motor wires to the stepper controller is the same as it is on all of the Axis stepper controllers.<br />
<br />
You can take a stepper motor from one of your axis (like the Z axis), temporarily, and connect it in this way, to see how different your extruder performs. I think you will be pleasantly surprised. You can only print a single layer this way (since you don't have the Z connected), but you will be able to see how much better your extruder controller works!<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Here are some more photos to help with the details.<br />
<gallery><br />
File:extramod1.JPG<br />
File:extramod2.JPG<br />
File:extramod3.JPG<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Help Improve this page!=<br />
Feel free to add photos or information that you would like to share with others, or if you are looking for something and can't find it here, please contact [http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php TechZoneCommunications here] and request the information you would like.</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=HuxleyMotors&diff=28096HuxleyMotors2011-02-06T15:14:30Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Alternate Y Axis Belt configuration */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:HuxleyMotorsNEndstops.jpg|border|right|400px|Image of a Huxley with the motors, belts, and endstops installed.]]<br />
=General=<br />
<br />
This page and its peers should guide you through assembling a RepRap Huxley from the TechZone kit, or from parts you have printed which are the same as the TechZone parts. It is a work in progress, and needs some help, feel free to edit this document to add comments of you your own, or contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and send us messages asking us for better clarification or details. <br />
<br />
I am starting by posting the pictures I have, and over the next few days, I will fill in the instructions and detials (24 Dec 2010)<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br style="clear: text" /><br />
Lambert (TechZone R&D/Support/Documenter)<br />
<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Before installing the motors, I recommend that you hook them up to the electronics and adjust the trimpot on the electronics. The reason is that if the trimpot is up too high, the motor will get hot and warp your plastic parts. To protect your machine and all your hard work, take a few minutes to got to the first installation section of the electronics page to get the motors adjusted correctly.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=X Axis Motor, Belt, and Endstop=<br />
==Standard X Axis belt configuration==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyXAxisDriveParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyXAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis motor cog]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Belt on the X Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis endstop and flags]] I put this endstop under an existing bolt, so that it would be close to the carriage when the carriage was in the "home" position. Alex describes which end is the home position very nicely below (better than I would have). The flag is also quite simple, it is a small piece of metal cut and bent in such a way that it goes in between the two posts of the endstop as the carriage nears the home position.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: HuxleyXAxisFlag.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both"/><br />
<br />
<br />
Here is my (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 22:35, 30 January 2011 (UTC)) version of how the X belt and the optostop should be assembled'')<br />
<br />
Of the three axes, installing the X belt was the most straightforward. The only weird moment here was that the driving pulley had to be installed upside-down (with the gear towards the motor)!<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_X_motor_pulleys.jpg|250px]] [[File:Huxley_X_idlers.jpg|250px]] <br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Opto_X.jpg|250px|right]]<br />
Placing the opto was not so obvious. Note that depending on what you consider the front side of the machine, you install the optos differently. I assembled mine assuming that the Y motor is in front, and the X motor is on the left. Therefore, both X and Y end stop must be on the same side with there respective motors. This does not necessary have to be so, but in any case the X opto must be on the left side and the Y one in front of you. Here is how I put it on the X axis:<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Preparing the optos''': the optos in TechZone kit have 3-pin connectors with 2.0mm pitch. The kit also contained some crimp connectors with 2.54 mm pitch. Besides being a bitch to install on the wire without a special crimp tool, the connectors didn't fit very well with the optos (obviously). My solution was to remove the connectors from the optos and solder the cable directly to them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Y Axis Motor, Belt and Endstop=<br />
<br />
==Alternate Y Axis Belt configuration==<br />
Alex has done a great job of figuring out an alternate belt layout, he did not like how the teeth roll over the idler bearings, so he configured it a bit differently. I like what he has done, so I am leaving it here for other people to see. There are not enough washers in the kit to do it this way, so if you decide to do the same, you will need to get more washers.<br />
<br />
('' here is my (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 21:42, 30 January 2011 (UTC)) version of how the Y belt should be mounted.'') <br />
<br />
Note that the plastic Y-motor mount is similar to what's used in a full-size Mendel, and has a special extrusion for mounting 2 pulleys. However, with that path the belt meets the pulleys (or at least some of them) teeth-in. That might be acceptable for Mendel which uses larger bearings for the pulleys, but for Huxley with its 10mm bearings (and the same belt pitch) the teeth-in placement isn't a very good idea. Instead, I used 2 of the motor mounting screws to install the pulleys on them, very similar to how it's done on the X axis:<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Y_drive_pulleys.jpg|300 px]]<br />
<br />
To align the idlers with the driving gear, you need to install them about 6mm above the mounting plate. I had a few spare large (20mm) washers, so I used them here. If you don't have that many from the kit, use two M3 nuts (plus some small washers) instead. However it looks like the washers will withstand the belt tension better. <br />
<br />
One the opposite side, another 2 idlers presumably should be installed, but I found that only one is needed. It's mounted exactly as the ones above:<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Y_idler_pulley.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Installed this way, the belt moves easily, never meets any idlers teeth-in and doesn't touch any other part of the construction (although it does come uncomfortably close to the Z belt).<br />
<br />
Here is where I put the Y opto (in one of the holes presumably intended for the idlers). The flag is not visible on the photo. It's on the "frog" plate and has a rather trivial geometry. Once you put the opto in place, you'll see where to mount the flag.<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Opto_Y.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyYAxisParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the Y Axis Motor, Belt, and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyYAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|The Y Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyYMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Put a cog on the motor for the Y Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyYBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Y Axis belt]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyYEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The Y Axis Endstop and flag]] I like to position this endstop in a location where the frog plate can be the flag. Unfortunately that position does not have a mounging hole so I recommend that you use a bit of hot glue to put it there, in this photo I show one where I drilled a new hole to mount it (I don't recommend that, it wasn't as stable as I wanted, so I ended up glueing it too)<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Z Axis Motor, Belt and Endstop=<br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the Z Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyZAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|The Z Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Put a cog on the Z Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZBeltGuide.jpg|border|right|250px|Put in the bearing guide for the Z Axis Belt]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Z Axis Belt]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|attach the Z Axis endstop and flag]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=HuxleyMotors&diff=28095HuxleyMotors2011-02-06T15:12:57Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Alternate Y Axis Belt configuration */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:HuxleyMotorsNEndstops.jpg|border|right|400px|Image of a Huxley with the motors, belts, and endstops installed.]]<br />
=General=<br />
<br />
This page and its peers should guide you through assembling a RepRap Huxley from the TechZone kit, or from parts you have printed which are the same as the TechZone parts. It is a work in progress, and needs some help, feel free to edit this document to add comments of you your own, or contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and send us messages asking us for better clarification or details. <br />
<br />
I am starting by posting the pictures I have, and over the next few days, I will fill in the instructions and detials (24 Dec 2010)<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br style="clear: text" /><br />
Lambert (TechZone R&D/Support/Documenter)<br />
<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Before installing the motors, I recommend that you hook them up to the electronics and adjust the trimpot on the electronics. The reason is that if the trimpot is up too high, the motor will get hot and warp your plastic parts. To protect your machine and all your hard work, take a few minutes to got to the first installation section of the electronics page to get the motors adjusted correctly.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=X Axis Motor, Belt, and Endstop=<br />
==Standard X Axis belt configuration==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyXAxisDriveParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyXAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis motor cog]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Belt on the X Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis endstop and flags]] I put this endstop under an existing bolt, so that it would be close to the carriage when the carriage was in the "home" position. Alex describes which end is the home position very nicely below (better than I would have). The flag is also quite simple, it is a small piece of metal cut and bent in such a way that it goes in between the two posts of the endstop as the carriage nears the home position.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: HuxleyXAxisFlag.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both"/><br />
<br />
<br />
Here is my (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 22:35, 30 January 2011 (UTC)) version of how the X belt and the optostop should be assembled'')<br />
<br />
Of the three axes, installing the X belt was the most straightforward. The only weird moment here was that the driving pulley had to be installed upside-down (with the gear towards the motor)!<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_X_motor_pulleys.jpg|250px]] [[File:Huxley_X_idlers.jpg|250px]] <br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Opto_X.jpg|250px|right]]<br />
Placing the opto was not so obvious. Note that depending on what you consider the front side of the machine, you install the optos differently. I assembled mine assuming that the Y motor is in front, and the X motor is on the left. Therefore, both X and Y end stop must be on the same side with there respective motors. This does not necessary have to be so, but in any case the X opto must be on the left side and the Y one in front of you. Here is how I put it on the X axis:<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Preparing the optos''': the optos in TechZone kit have 3-pin connectors with 2.0mm pitch. The kit also contained some crimp connectors with 2.54 mm pitch. Besides being a bitch to install on the wire without a special crimp tool, the connectors didn't fit very well with the optos (obviously). My solution was to remove the connectors from the optos and solder the cable directly to them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Y Axis Motor, Belt and Endstop=<br />
<br />
==Alternate Y Axis Belt configuration==<br />
Alex has done a great job of figuring out an alternate belt layout, he did not like how the teeth roll over the idler bearings, so he configured it a bit differently. I like what he has done, so I am leaving it here for other people to see. There are not enough washers in the kit to do it this way, so if you decide to do the same, you will need to get more washers.<br />
<br />
('' here is my (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 21:42, 30 January 2011 (UTC)) version of how the Y belt should be mounted.'') <br />
<br />
Note that the plastic Y-motor mount is similar to what's used in a full-size Mendel, and has a special extrusion for mounting 2 pulleys. However, with that path the belt meets the pulleys (or at least some of them) teeth-in. That might be acceptable for Mendel which uses larger bearings for the pulleys, but for Huxley with its 10mm bearings (and the same belt pitch) the teeth-in placement isn't a very good idea. Instead, I used 2 of the motor mounting screws to install the pulleys on them, very similar to how it's done on the X axis:<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Y_drive_pulleys.jpg|300 px]]<br />
<br />
To align the idlers with the driving gear, you need to install them about 6mm above the mounting plate. I had a few spare large (20mm) washers, so I used them here. If you don't have that many from the kit, use two M3 nuts (plus some small washers) instead. However it looks like the washers will withstand the belt tension better. <br />
<br />
One the opposite side, another 2 idlers presumably should be installed, but I found that only one is needed. It's mounted exactly as the ones above:<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Y_idler_pulley.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Installed this way, the belt moves easily, never meets any idlers teeth-in and doesn't touch any other part of the construction (although it does come uncomfortably close to the Z belt).<br />
<br />
Here is where I put the Y opto (in one of the holes presumably intended for the idlers). The flag is not visible on the photo. It's on the "frog" plate and has a rather trivial geometry. Once you put the opto in place, you'll see where to mount the flag.<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Opto_Y.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyYAxisParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the Y Axis Motor, Belt, and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyYAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|The Y Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyYMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Put a cog on the motor for the Y Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyYBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Y Axis belt]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyYEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The Y Axis Endstop and flag]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Z Axis Motor, Belt and Endstop=<br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the Z Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyZAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|The Z Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Put a cog on the Z Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZBeltGuide.jpg|border|right|250px|Put in the bearing guide for the Z Axis Belt]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Z Axis Belt]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|attach the Z Axis endstop and flag]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:HuxleyXAxisFlag.jpg&diff=28094File:HuxleyXAxisFlag.jpg2011-02-06T15:12:07Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=HuxleyMotors&diff=28093HuxleyMotors2011-02-06T15:11:25Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Standard X Axis belt configuration */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:HuxleyMotorsNEndstops.jpg|border|right|400px|Image of a Huxley with the motors, belts, and endstops installed.]]<br />
=General=<br />
<br />
This page and its peers should guide you through assembling a RepRap Huxley from the TechZone kit, or from parts you have printed which are the same as the TechZone parts. It is a work in progress, and needs some help, feel free to edit this document to add comments of you your own, or contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and send us messages asking us for better clarification or details. <br />
<br />
I am starting by posting the pictures I have, and over the next few days, I will fill in the instructions and detials (24 Dec 2010)<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br style="clear: text" /><br />
Lambert (TechZone R&D/Support/Documenter)<br />
<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Before installing the motors, I recommend that you hook them up to the electronics and adjust the trimpot on the electronics. The reason is that if the trimpot is up too high, the motor will get hot and warp your plastic parts. To protect your machine and all your hard work, take a few minutes to got to the first installation section of the electronics page to get the motors adjusted correctly.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=X Axis Motor, Belt, and Endstop=<br />
==Standard X Axis belt configuration==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyXAxisDriveParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyXAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis motor cog]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Belt on the X Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis endstop and flags]] I put this endstop under an existing bolt, so that it would be close to the carriage when the carriage was in the "home" position. Alex describes which end is the home position very nicely below (better than I would have). The flag is also quite simple, it is a small piece of metal cut and bent in such a way that it goes in between the two posts of the endstop as the carriage nears the home position.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: HuxleyXAxisFlag.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both"/><br />
<br />
<br />
Here is my (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 22:35, 30 January 2011 (UTC)) version of how the X belt and the optostop should be assembled'')<br />
<br />
Of the three axes, installing the X belt was the most straightforward. The only weird moment here was that the driving pulley had to be installed upside-down (with the gear towards the motor)!<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_X_motor_pulleys.jpg|250px]] [[File:Huxley_X_idlers.jpg|250px]] <br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Opto_X.jpg|250px|right]]<br />
Placing the opto was not so obvious. Note that depending on what you consider the front side of the machine, you install the optos differently. I assembled mine assuming that the Y motor is in front, and the X motor is on the left. Therefore, both X and Y end stop must be on the same side with there respective motors. This does not necessary have to be so, but in any case the X opto must be on the left side and the Y one in front of you. Here is how I put it on the X axis:<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Preparing the optos''': the optos in TechZone kit have 3-pin connectors with 2.0mm pitch. The kit also contained some crimp connectors with 2.54 mm pitch. Besides being a bitch to install on the wire without a special crimp tool, the connectors didn't fit very well with the optos (obviously). My solution was to remove the connectors from the optos and solder the cable directly to them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Y Axis Motor, Belt and Endstop=<br />
<br />
==Alternate Y Axis Belt configuration==<br />
Alex has done a gread job of figuring out an alternate belt layout, he did not like how the teeth roll over the idler bearings, so he configured it a bit differently. I like what he has done, so I am leaving it here for other people to see. There are not enough washers in the kit to do it this way, so if you decide to do the same, you will need to get more washers.<br />
<br />
('' here is my (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 21:42, 30 January 2011 (UTC)) version of how the Y belt should be mounted.'') <br />
<br />
Note that the plastic Y-motor mount is similar to what's used in a full-size Mendel, and has a special extrusion for mounting 2 pulleys. However, with that path the belt meets the pulleys (or at least some of them) teeth-in. That might be acceptable for Mendel which uses larger bearings for the pulleys, but for Huxley with its 10mm bearings (and the same belt pitch) the teeth-in placement isn't a very good idea. Instead, I used 2 of the motor mounting screws to install the pulleys on them, very similar to how it's done on the X axis:<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Y_drive_pulleys.jpg|300 px]]<br />
<br />
To align the idlers with the driving gear, you need to install them about 6mm above the mounting plate. I had a few spare large (20mm) washers, so I used them here. If you don't have that many from the kit, use two M3 nuts (plus some small washers) instead. However it looks like the washers will withstand the belt tension better. <br />
<br />
One the opposite side, another 2 idlers presumably should be installed, but I found that only one is needed. It's mounted exactly as the ones above:<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Y_idler_pulley.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Installed this way, the belt moves easily, never meets any idlers teeth-in and doesn't touch any other part of the construction (although it does come uncomfortably close to the Z belt).<br />
<br />
Here is where I put the Y opto (in one of the holes presumably intended for the idlers). The flag is not visible on the photo. It's on the "frog" plate and has a rather trivial geometry. Once you put the opto in place, you'll see where to mount the flag.<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Opto_Y.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyYAxisParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the Y Axis Motor, Belt, and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyYAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|The Y Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyYMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Put a cog on the motor for the Y Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyYBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Y Axis belt]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyYEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The Y Axis Endstop and flag]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Z Axis Motor, Belt and Endstop=<br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the Z Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyZAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|The Z Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Put a cog on the Z Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZBeltGuide.jpg|border|right|250px|Put in the bearing guide for the Z Axis Belt]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Z Axis Belt]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|attach the Z Axis endstop and flag]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:HuxleyXEndstop.jpg&diff=28092File:HuxleyXEndstop.jpg2011-02-06T15:07:55Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:HuxleyYEndstop.jpg&diff=28091File:HuxleyYEndstop.jpg2011-02-06T15:06:20Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:HuxleyZAxisEndstop.jpg&diff=28090File:HuxleyZAxisEndstop.jpg2011-02-06T15:05:13Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=HuxleyMotors&diff=28089HuxleyMotors2011-02-06T15:03:34Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Y Axis Motor, Belt and Endstop */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:HuxleyMotorsNEndstops.jpg|border|right|400px|Image of a Huxley with the motors, belts, and endstops installed.]]<br />
=General=<br />
<br />
This page and its peers should guide you through assembling a RepRap Huxley from the TechZone kit, or from parts you have printed which are the same as the TechZone parts. It is a work in progress, and needs some help, feel free to edit this document to add comments of you your own, or contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and send us messages asking us for better clarification or details. <br />
<br />
I am starting by posting the pictures I have, and over the next few days, I will fill in the instructions and detials (24 Dec 2010)<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br style="clear: text" /><br />
Lambert (TechZone R&D/Support/Documenter)<br />
<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Before installing the motors, I recommend that you hook them up to the electronics and adjust the trimpot on the electronics. The reason is that if the trimpot is up too high, the motor will get hot and warp your plastic parts. To protect your machine and all your hard work, take a few minutes to got to the first installation section of the electronics page to get the motors adjusted correctly.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=X Axis Motor, Belt, and Endstop=<br />
==Standard X Axis belt configuration==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyXAxisDriveParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyXAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis motor cog]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Belt on the X Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis endstop and flags]]<br />
<br style="clear: both"/><br />
<br />
<br />
Here is my (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 22:35, 30 January 2011 (UTC)) version of how the X belt and the optostop should be assembled'')<br />
<br />
Of the three axes, installing the X belt was the most straightforward. The only weird moment here was that the driving pulley had to be installed upside-down (with the gear towards the motor)!<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_X_motor_pulleys.jpg|250px]] [[File:Huxley_X_idlers.jpg|250px]] <br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Opto_X.jpg|250px|right]]<br />
Placing the opto was not so obvious. Note that depending on what you consider the front side of the machine, you install the optos differently. I assembled mine assuming that the Y motor is in front, and the X motor is on the left. Therefore, both X and Y end stop must be on the same side with there respective motors. This does not necessary have to be so, but in any case the X opto must be on the left side and the Y one in front of you. Here is how I put it on the X axis:<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Preparing the optos''': the optos in TechZone kit have 3-pin connectors with 2.0mm pitch. The kit also contained some crimp connectors with 2.54 mm pitch. Besides being a bitch to install on the wire without a special crimp tool, the connectors didn't fit very well with the optos (obviously). My solution was to remove the connectors from the optos and solder the cable directly to them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyXAxisDriveParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyXAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis motor cog]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Belt on the X Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis endstop and flags]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Y Axis Motor, Belt and Endstop=<br />
<br />
==Alternate Y Axis Belt configuration==<br />
Alex has done a gread job of figuring out an alternate belt layout, he did not like how the teeth roll over the idler bearings, so he configured it a bit differently. I like what he has done, so I am leaving it here for other people to see. There are not enough washers in the kit to do it this way, so if you decide to do the same, you will need to get more washers.<br />
<br />
('' here is my (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 21:42, 30 January 2011 (UTC)) version of how the Y belt should be mounted.'') <br />
<br />
Note that the plastic Y-motor mount is similar to what's used in a full-size Mendel, and has a special extrusion for mounting 2 pulleys. However, with that path the belt meets the pulleys (or at least some of them) teeth-in. That might be acceptable for Mendel which uses larger bearings for the pulleys, but for Huxley with its 10mm bearings (and the same belt pitch) the teeth-in placement isn't a very good idea. Instead, I used 2 of the motor mounting screws to install the pulleys on them, very similar to how it's done on the X axis:<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Y_drive_pulleys.jpg|300 px]]<br />
<br />
To align the idlers with the driving gear, you need to install them about 6mm above the mounting plate. I had a few spare large (20mm) washers, so I used them here. If you don't have that many from the kit, use two M3 nuts (plus some small washers) instead. However it looks like the washers will withstand the belt tension better. <br />
<br />
One the opposite side, another 2 idlers presumably should be installed, but I found that only one is needed. It's mounted exactly as the ones above:<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Y_idler_pulley.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Installed this way, the belt moves easily, never meets any idlers teeth-in and doesn't touch any other part of the construction (although it does come uncomfortably close to the Z belt).<br />
<br />
Here is where I put the Y opto (in one of the holes presumably intended for the idlers). The flag is not visible on the photo. It's on the "frog" plate and has a rather trivial geometry. Once you put the opto in place, you'll see where to mount the flag.<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Opto_Y.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyYAxisParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the Y Axis Motor, Belt, and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyYAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|The Y Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyYMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Put a cog on the motor for the Y Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyYBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Y Axis belt]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyYEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The Y Axis Endstop and flag]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Z Axis Motor, Belt and Endstop=<br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the Z Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyZAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|The Z Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Put a cog on the Z Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZBeltGuide.jpg|border|right|250px|Put in the bearing guide for the Z Axis Belt]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Z Axis Belt]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|attach the Z Axis endstop and flag]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=HuxleyMotors&diff=28088HuxleyMotors2011-02-06T15:02:22Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* X Axis Motor, Belt, and Endstop */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:HuxleyMotorsNEndstops.jpg|border|right|400px|Image of a Huxley with the motors, belts, and endstops installed.]]<br />
=General=<br />
<br />
This page and its peers should guide you through assembling a RepRap Huxley from the TechZone kit, or from parts you have printed which are the same as the TechZone parts. It is a work in progress, and needs some help, feel free to edit this document to add comments of you your own, or contact us [[http://www.techzonecom.com/contact.php here]] and send us messages asking us for better clarification or details. <br />
<br />
I am starting by posting the pictures I have, and over the next few days, I will fill in the instructions and detials (24 Dec 2010)<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br style="clear: text" /><br />
Lambert (TechZone R&D/Support/Documenter)<br />
<br />
<br />
You can access this page and it's peers (for the other parts of the Huxley assembly from the [[Huxley|Main Huxley page]] or from the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley Page]]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
Before installing the motors, I recommend that you hook them up to the electronics and adjust the trimpot on the electronics. The reason is that if the trimpot is up too high, the motor will get hot and warp your plastic parts. To protect your machine and all your hard work, take a few minutes to got to the first installation section of the electronics page to get the motors adjusted correctly.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=X Axis Motor, Belt, and Endstop=<br />
==Standard X Axis belt configuration==<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyXAxisDriveParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyXAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis motor cog]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Belt on the X Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis endstop and flags]]<br />
<br style="clear: both"/><br />
<br />
<br />
Here is my (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 22:35, 30 January 2011 (UTC)) version of how the X belt and the optostop should be assembled'')<br />
<br />
Of the three axes, installing the X belt was the most straightforward. The only weird moment here was that the driving pulley had to be installed upside-down (with the gear towards the motor)!<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_X_motor_pulleys.jpg|250px]] [[File:Huxley_X_idlers.jpg|250px]] <br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Opto_X.jpg|250px|right]]<br />
Placing the opto was not so obvious. Note that depending on what you consider the front side of the machine, you install the optos differently. I assembled mine assuming that the Y motor is in front, and the X motor is on the left. Therefore, both X and Y end stop must be on the same side with there respective motors. This does not necessary have to be so, but in any case the X opto must be on the left side and the Y one in front of you. Here is how I put it on the X axis:<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Preparing the optos''': the optos in TechZone kit have 3-pin connectors with 2.0mm pitch. The kit also contained some crimp connectors with 2.54 mm pitch. Besides being a bitch to install on the wire without a special crimp tool, the connectors didn't fit very well with the optos (obviously). My solution was to remove the connectors from the optos and solder the cable directly to them.<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyXAxisDriveParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyXAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|the X Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis motor cog]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Belt on the X Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyXEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the X Axis endstop and flags]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Y Axis Motor, Belt and Endstop=<br />
<br />
(''While TechZone is getting around to supplying the "official" layout, here is my (--[[User:AlexRa|AlexRa]] 21:42, 30 January 2011 (UTC)) version of how the Y belt should be mounted.'') <br />
<br />
Note that the plastic Y-motor mount is similar to what's used in a full-size Mendel, and has a special extrusion for mounting 2 pulleys. However, with that path the belt meets the pulleys (or at least some of them) teeth-in. That might be acceptable for Mendel which uses larger bearings for the pulleys, but for Huxley with its 10mm bearings (and the same belt pitch) the teeth-in placement isn't a very good idea. Instead, I used 2 of the motor mounting screws to install the pulleys on them, very similar to how it's done on the X axis:<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Y_drive_pulleys.jpg|300 px]]<br />
<br />
To align the idlers with the driving gear, you need to install them about 6mm above the mounting plate. I had a few spare large (20mm) washers, so I used them here. If you don't have that many from the kit, use two M3 nuts (plus some small washers) instead. However it looks like the washers will withstand the belt tension better. <br />
<br />
One the opposite side, another 2 idlers presumably should be installed, but I found that only one is needed. It's mounted exactly as the ones above:<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Y_idler_pulley.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Installed this way, the belt moves easily, never meets any idlers teeth-in and doesn't touch any other part of the construction (although it does come uncomfortably close to the Z belt).<br />
<br />
Here is where I put the Y opto (in one of the holes presumably intended for the idlers). The flag is not visible on the photo. It's on the "frog" plate and has a rather trivial geometry. Once you put the opto in place, you'll see where to mount the flag.<br />
<br />
[[File:Huxley_Opto_Y.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyYAxisParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the Y Axis Motor, Belt, and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyYAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|The Y Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:HuxleyYMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Put a cog on the motor for the Y Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyYBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Y Axis belt]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyYEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|The Y Axis Endstop and flag]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Z Axis Motor, Belt and Endstop=<br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts used for the Z Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]][[Image:HuxleyZAxis.jpg|border|right|250px|The Z Axis Motor, Belt and endstop]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZMotorCog.jpg|border|right|250px|Put a cog on the Z Axis]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZBeltGuide.jpg|border|right|250px|Put in the bearing guide for the Z Axis Belt]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisBelt.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the Z Axis Belt]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:HuxleyZAxisEndstop.jpg|border|right|250px|attach the Z Axis endstop and flag]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=TechZone_Horizontal_Filament_Spool&diff=27938TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool2011-02-03T05:14:26Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* Design considerations and thoughts */</p>
<hr />
<div>=General= <br />
This simple filament spool for your RepRap is designed to be inexpensive (both to buy and to ship as a kit) and durable. It is constructed from 3mm plywood, and steel hardware including a lazy susan bearing.<br />
<br />
This spool is a great addition to the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley]] or to the RepRap Mendel, it would of course work with any 3d printer which uses coiled filament. It can be purchased at [http://www.techzonecom.com/detail.php?pr_id=35 TechZone Communications], or if you have access to a laser cutter, you can cut one from your own material.<br />
----<br />
[[Image:TZHorizontalSpool.jpg|border|right|400px|The TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool]]<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = ??.jpg<br />
|name = Filament Spool<br />
|description = A simple laser cut filament spool<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]]<br />
|reprap = Accessories<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| Your-File-Name<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| These are the files you need to make a set of boards<br />
| [[media:Monotronics_design_files.xml.zip|.xml.zip]]<br />
| [[User:Example User|--Example User]] 12:00, Today's Date 20xx (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmwar.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
=Kit Contents=<br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHorizontalSpoolKitContents.jpg|border|left|250px|The contents of the TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool kit]][[Image:TZHorizontalSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|The Filament Spool when assembled.]]There are ten LaserCut pieces in the kit as well as a set of steel hardware. The picture at the left shows the LaserCut parts, all are labeled, except for the reinforcements. If you are missing anything from your kit when you unpack it you should contact TechZoneCommunications (if that is where you purchased your kit) and let them know which parts you still need. The Photo on the right shows the assembled spool, and the picture below it shows the contents of the hardware.<br />
<br />
Click on the images to see them larger.<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolHardware.jpg|border|right|250px|The Hardware included in the kit]]<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Assembly=<br />
The tools you will want, to make the assembly of this kit simpler, are a common office stapler with staples a screwdriver, some long nose pliars, and Glue. I use polyurethane glue, like gorilla glue, but any other strong glue ment for bonding wood will work just fine. you may also want some small clamps (like spring clamps); and/or large rubber bands.<br />
<br />
As the following steps are performed, I used a common office stapler to hold things in place until the glue dried, however, you could use some spring clamps or large rubber bands to hold it together until the glue dries. <br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==The Housing (box)==<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolSupport.jpg|border|right|250px|Find which side of the support will be the top]]We are going to start by assembling the spool support. The spool support has five holes in it, one larger and four smaller holes, it is made from thre pieces, the one that matches the preceding description and the two long narrow pieces.<br />
<br />
To do this correctly, we need to idetify which side of the spool support is the top. I place the spool support into the slots of one of the sides and flip it over if needed, when it is turned the right direction it will appear to be in the center (left to right) as shown in the photo on the right. Take a moment and label the top of this support, so we don't mix it up in the next few steps. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSupportToSlots.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSupportLabeledTop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:TZHFSSpoolSupportReinforce.jpg|border|right|250px|Add reinforcements to the support]]Next, we add the reinforcements to the Spool Support. <br />
<br />
I put glue on the edge of all pieces in the lower portions of the jagged edges which are going to be fastened together (see below). It is smart to dry fit the pieces first to see where you will want this glue, and to make sure the pieces are going the right direction.<br />
<br />
The reinforcements should be flush with the top of this support, and project downwards from it.<br />
<br />
I have found that an office stapler will work fine to hold things together while the glue dries (not all the staples will penetrate, so just pull out the bad ones with pliars and try again). You could also use some large rubber bands (with blocks underneath to keep it from pulling the reinforcements sideways), or spring clamps like in the picture below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSApplyGlue.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSpoolSupportSpringClamps.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHFSSSide1.jpg|border|right|250px|Attach a side to the top of the box]]Next, I select one of the sides (it does not matter which side) and attach it to the top of the box. Again, glue it and use staples or a clamp to hold it until the glue dries.<br />
<br />
Use staples to attach each of the other four sides to the top of the box - don't forget to glue the pieces.. If you have some extra help you can glue them in place and hold them with several large rubber bands, rather than with staples. There are pictures of the assembly below to clearify/confuse this step. <br />
<br />
I also have a photo of me tapping some of the staples into place, they were still strait, but didn't go in all the way, so I encouraged them a little.<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSSide2.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSide3.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSide4.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSStaple.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSHammerTap.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:TZHFSSSupportInstall.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the spool support into the box]]Now we can put the spool support into the box. I use glue... again, but this time I put it into the slots on the two sides as well as on the lower portion of the spool support (pictures below). <br />
<br />
I then put the spool support into the box, the box sides will flex enough to allow spool support so fit (photo at right). I do this with the box upside down, that means the side of the spool support which we marked as top also goes down (see picture below)<br />
<br />
I use staples again to hold it in place, but you could stack weights on it instead, or use large rubber bands. (picture of staples below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TSHFSGlueInSlots.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSuportStaples.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSBoxAssembled.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==The Spool==<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts for the Spool]][[Image:TZHFilamentHalfSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|The Posts installed on the Spool]]The spool itself is quite simple, and consists mostly of hardware, there are only two laser cut parts. All the parts used for this section are pictured at the left.<br />
<br />
I start by putting four of the nuts onto the four threaded rods, almost like the first picture below - I like to put the nuts further onto the rods so that when I put the short end of the rod through the spool bottom, all I have left to do is add nuts to that end. <br />
<br />
There are pictures to the right, and below of the rods and nuts connected to the spool bottom. '''NOTE''' the picture showing washers on the bottom of the spool is incorrect! if you put washers there, then the nuts and rods stick down too far and it will rub as it spins on the lazy susan bearing, '''leave the washers off''' I left the photo because it shows great alignment of the end of the rod and the nuts.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you put threadlock on all eight of the nuts that fasten the threaded rod to the bottom of the filament spool.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSThreadedRod.jpg<br />
file: TZHFRodOnSpoolBottom.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHFSLazySusanSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|Attach the Lazy Suzan Bearing to the spool]]Using the parts from the first picture below, we now attach the Lazy susan bearing to the box. Tighten them with pliars (or wrench) and the screwdriver. There is a photo of this below.<br />
<br />
Then, using the large Access hole in the Spool Support, attach the bearing to the bottom of the spool; as shown on the right.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanParts.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanBox.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanBox2.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSpoolInBox.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Loading The Spool=<br />
<br />
Most of the time, the PLA I get can be loaded onto the spool by removing the top and setting it on over the rods. When I load it this way, I sometimes have to keep it from dropping down around the bottom and tangling (Not difficult, but I do have to pay attention and correct it when it happens). The following photos and description are how I put the filament on in these cases. The other way to laod it is to wind the filament on... that one is mostly self explanatory and a bit time consuming to do.<br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHFSOrientFilament.jpg|border|right|250px|make sure you put the filament so that it will feed out of the feed hole]]I start by removing the top of the filament spool (if it is installed, in the case of a first time use we haven't installed it yet - notice that I do have four nuts on the bars though) and then I hold the filament so that I can see the end and which way the end wants to come off of the spool (pictured at right). Then I simply set it down over the bars.<br />
<br />
Slide the top of the spool onto the bars and put the last four nuts on. I usually use washers with the top of the spool, but they aren't necessary.<br />
<br />
Thats it. You have built the box and loaded it with filament for use! Enjoy!<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSLoadTheFilament.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSInstalSpoolTop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=<br />
<br />
I have created this section, because as soon as I publish a design, I get suggestions from people. Almost all the suggestions I get are good suggestions, but quite often they would depart from the objective of the design, or they are something which has been considered and discarded for some reason. I expect this section may turn into a 'discussion' which would be good, but as you add things to it, please make some identifying mark so that others reading this can follow the conversation.<br />
<br />
The primary objective in this design was to make a filament spool which the RepRap Mendel could sit on top of. The secondary objective was to do it with a low cost - both of the kit and of the shipping. We stared with a prototype made from 1/4 in birch plywood, which we really liked, but when we weighed it and calculated shipping from the US to Europe or Australia, it would cost more to ship it that what we were selling it for. So, we redesigned and built it from 1/8 in plywood. This reduced the shipping costs quite alot, and with our notches to help strengthen it we feel it is stout enough as well.<br />
<br />
I have been running my printers for many months from these spools and have not had any troubles with them. I usually stack four or five spools on top of each other and feed the filament out to the printers sitting nearby. I didn't like the soundboard effect of the spool with the printer directly on it. My friend on the other hand loves it being stacked, he took some bungee cords and strapped his Mendel to the spool so that when he grabs the Mendel to transport it, the spool automatically comes with it.<br />
<br />
This Spool will work on its side, but not very well, this type of bearing is not intended to be hung on its side. I expect that after prolonged use (a year or two) the bearing would even wear funny if you use it on its side too much.</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:TZHFSInstalSpoolTop.jpg&diff=27937File:TZHFSInstalSpoolTop.jpg2011-02-03T05:06:48Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:TZHFSLoadTheFilament.jpg&diff=27936File:TZHFSLoadTheFilament.jpg2011-02-03T05:05:34Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:TZHFSOrientFilament.jpg&diff=27935File:TZHFSOrientFilament.jpg2011-02-03T05:04:06Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=TechZone_Horizontal_Filament_Spool&diff=27931TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool2011-02-03T04:07:34Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* General */</p>
<hr />
<div>=General= <br />
This simple filament spool for your RepRap is designed to be inexpensive (both to buy and to ship as a kit) and durable. It is constructed from 3mm plywood, and steel hardware including a lazy susan bearing.<br />
<br />
This spool is a great addition to the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley]] or to the RepRap Mendel, it would of course work with any 3d printer which uses coiled filament. It can be purchased at [http://www.techzonecom.com/detail.php?pr_id=35 TechZone Communications], or if you have access to a laser cutter, you can cut one from your own material.<br />
----<br />
[[Image:TZHorizontalSpool.jpg|border|right|400px|The TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool]]<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = ??.jpg<br />
|name = Filament Spool<br />
|description = A simple laser cut filament spool<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]]<br />
|reprap = Accessories<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| Your-File-Name<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| These are the files you need to make a set of boards<br />
| [[media:Monotronics_design_files.xml.zip|.xml.zip]]<br />
| [[User:Example User|--Example User]] 12:00, Today's Date 20xx (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmwar.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
=Kit Contents=<br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHorizontalSpoolKitContents.jpg|border|left|250px|The contents of the TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool kit]][[Image:TZHorizontalSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|The Filament Spool when assembled.]]There are ten LaserCut pieces in the kit as well as a set of steel hardware. The picture at the left shows the LaserCut parts, all are labeled, except for the reinforcements. If you are missing anything from your kit when you unpack it you should contact TechZoneCommunications (if that is where you purchased your kit) and let them know which parts you still need. The Photo on the right shows the assembled spool, and the picture below it shows the contents of the hardware.<br />
<br />
Click on the images to see them larger.<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolHardware.jpg|border|right|250px|The Hardware included in the kit]]<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Assembly=<br />
The tools you will want, to make the assembly of this kit simpler, are a common office stapler with staples a screwdriver, some long nose pliars, and Glue. I use polyurethane glue, like gorilla glue, but any other strong glue ment for bonding wood will work just fine. you may also want some small clamps (like spring clamps); and/or large rubber bands.<br />
<br />
As the following steps are performed, I used a common office stapler to hold things in place until the glue dried, however, you could use some spring clamps or large rubber bands to hold it together until the glue dries. <br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==The Housing (box)==<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolSupport.jpg|border|right|250px|Find which side of the support will be the top]]We are going to start by assembling the spool support. The spool support has five holes in it, one larger and four smaller holes, it is made from thre pieces, the one that matches the preceding description and the two long narrow pieces.<br />
<br />
To do this correctly, we need to idetify which side of the spool support is the top. I place the spool support into the slots of one of the sides and flip it over if needed, when it is turned the right direction it will appear to be in the center (left to right) as shown in the photo on the right. Take a moment and label the top of this support, so we don't mix it up in the next few steps. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSupportToSlots.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSupportLabeledTop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:TZHFSSpoolSupportReinforce.jpg|border|right|250px|Add reinforcements to the support]]Next, we add the reinforcements to the Spool Support. <br />
<br />
I put glue on the edge of all pieces in the lower portions of the jagged edges which are going to be fastened together (see below). It is smart to dry fit the pieces first to see where you will want this glue, and to make sure the pieces are going the right direction.<br />
<br />
The reinforcements should be flush with the top of this support, and project downwards from it.<br />
<br />
I have found that an office stapler will work fine to hold things together while the glue dries (not all the staples will penetrate, so just pull out the bad ones with pliars and try again). You could also use some large rubber bands (with blocks underneath to keep it from pulling the reinforcements sideways), or spring clamps like in the picture below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSApplyGlue.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSpoolSupportSpringClamps.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHFSSSide1.jpg|border|right|250px|Attach a side to the top of the box]]Next, I select one of the sides (it does not matter which side) and attach it to the top of the box. Again, glue it and use staples or a clamp to hold it until the glue dries.<br />
<br />
Use staples to attach each of the other four sides to the top of the box - don't forget to glue the pieces.. If you have some extra help you can glue them in place and hold them with several large rubber bands, rather than with staples. There are pictures of the assembly below to clearify/confuse this step. <br />
<br />
I also have a photo of me tapping some of the staples into place, they were still strait, but didn't go in all the way, so I encouraged them a little.<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSSide2.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSide3.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSide4.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSStaple.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSHammerTap.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:TZHFSSSupportInstall.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the spool support into the box]]Now we can put the spool support into the box. I use glue... again, but this time I put it into the slots on the two sides as well as on the lower portion of the spool support (pictures below). <br />
<br />
I then put the spool support into the box, the box sides will flex enough to allow spool support so fit (photo at right). I do this with the box upside down, that means the side of the spool support which we marked as top also goes down (see picture below)<br />
<br />
I use staples again to hold it in place, but you could stack weights on it instead, or use large rubber bands. (picture of staples below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TSHFSGlueInSlots.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSuportStaples.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSBoxAssembled.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==The Spool==<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts for the Spool]][[Image:TZHFilamentHalfSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|The Posts installed on the Spool]]The spool itself is quite simple, and consists mostly of hardware, there are only two laser cut parts. All the parts used for this section are pictured at the left.<br />
<br />
I start by putting four of the nuts onto the four threaded rods, almost like the first picture below - I like to put the nuts further onto the rods so that when I put the short end of the rod through the spool bottom, all I have left to do is add nuts to that end. <br />
<br />
There are pictures to the right, and below of the rods and nuts connected to the spool bottom. '''NOTE''' the picture showing washers on the bottom of the spool is incorrect! if you put washers there, then the nuts and rods stick down too far and it will rub as it spins on the lazy susan bearing, '''leave the washers off''' I left the photo because it shows great alignment of the end of the rod and the nuts.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you put threadlock on all eight of the nuts that fasten the threaded rod to the bottom of the filament spool.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSThreadedRod.jpg<br />
file: TZHFRodOnSpoolBottom.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHFSLazySusanSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|Attach the Lazy Suzan Bearing to the spool]]Using the parts from the first picture below, we now attach the Lazy susan bearing to the box. Tighten them with pliars (or wrench) and the screwdriver. There is a photo of this below.<br />
<br />
Then, using the large Access hole in the Spool Support, attach the bearing to the bottom of the spool; as shown on the right.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanParts.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanBox.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanBox2.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSpoolInBox.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Loading The Spool=<br />
<br />
Most of the time, the PLA I get can be loaded onto the spool by removing the top and setting it on over the rods. When I load it this way, I sometimes have to keep it from dropping down around the bottom and tangling (Not difficult, but I do have to pay attention and correct it when it happens). The following photos and description are how I put the filament on in these cases. The other way to laod it is to wind the filament on... that one is mostly self explanatory and a bit time consuming to do.<br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHFSOrientFilament.jpg|border|right|250px|make sure you put the filament so that it will feed out of the feed hole]]I start by removing the top of the filament spool (if it is installed, in the case of a first time use we haven't installed it yet - notice that I do have four nuts on the bars though) and then I hold the filament so that I can see the end and which way the end wants to come off of the spool (pictured at right). Then I simply set it down over the bars.<br />
<br />
Slide the top of the spool onto the bars and put the last four nuts on. I usually use washers with the top of the spool, but they aren't necessary.<br />
<br />
Thats it. You have built the box and loaded it with filament for use! Enjoy!<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSLoadTheFilament.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSInstalSpoolTop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=TechZone_Horizontal_Filament_Spool&diff=27930TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool2011-02-03T04:06:55Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* General */</p>
<hr />
<div>=General= <br />
This simple filament spool for your RepRap is designed to be inexpensive (both to buy and to ship as a kit) and durable. It is constructed from 3mm plywood, and steel hardware including a lazy susan bearing.<br />
<br />
This spool is a great addition to the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley]] or to the RepRap Mendel, it would of course work with any 3d printer which uses coiled filament. It can be purchased at [http://www.techzonecom.com/detail.php?pr_id=35 TechZone Communications]<br />
----<br />
[[Image:TZHorizontalSpool.jpg|border|right|400px|The TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool]]<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = ??.jpg<br />
|name = Filament Spool<br />
|description = A simple laser cut filament spool<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]]<br />
|reprap = Accessories<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| Your-File-Name<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| These are the files you need to make a set of boards<br />
| [[media:Monotronics_design_files.xml.zip|.xml.zip]]<br />
| [[User:Example User|--Example User]] 12:00, Today's Date 20xx (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmwar.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
=Kit Contents=<br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHorizontalSpoolKitContents.jpg|border|left|250px|The contents of the TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool kit]][[Image:TZHorizontalSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|The Filament Spool when assembled.]]There are ten LaserCut pieces in the kit as well as a set of steel hardware. The picture at the left shows the LaserCut parts, all are labeled, except for the reinforcements. If you are missing anything from your kit when you unpack it you should contact TechZoneCommunications (if that is where you purchased your kit) and let them know which parts you still need. The Photo on the right shows the assembled spool, and the picture below it shows the contents of the hardware.<br />
<br />
Click on the images to see them larger.<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolHardware.jpg|border|right|250px|The Hardware included in the kit]]<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Assembly=<br />
The tools you will want, to make the assembly of this kit simpler, are a common office stapler with staples a screwdriver, some long nose pliars, and Glue. I use polyurethane glue, like gorilla glue, but any other strong glue ment for bonding wood will work just fine. you may also want some small clamps (like spring clamps); and/or large rubber bands.<br />
<br />
As the following steps are performed, I used a common office stapler to hold things in place until the glue dried, however, you could use some spring clamps or large rubber bands to hold it together until the glue dries. <br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==The Housing (box)==<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolSupport.jpg|border|right|250px|Find which side of the support will be the top]]We are going to start by assembling the spool support. The spool support has five holes in it, one larger and four smaller holes, it is made from thre pieces, the one that matches the preceding description and the two long narrow pieces.<br />
<br />
To do this correctly, we need to idetify which side of the spool support is the top. I place the spool support into the slots of one of the sides and flip it over if needed, when it is turned the right direction it will appear to be in the center (left to right) as shown in the photo on the right. Take a moment and label the top of this support, so we don't mix it up in the next few steps. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSupportToSlots.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSupportLabeledTop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:TZHFSSpoolSupportReinforce.jpg|border|right|250px|Add reinforcements to the support]]Next, we add the reinforcements to the Spool Support. <br />
<br />
I put glue on the edge of all pieces in the lower portions of the jagged edges which are going to be fastened together (see below). It is smart to dry fit the pieces first to see where you will want this glue, and to make sure the pieces are going the right direction.<br />
<br />
The reinforcements should be flush with the top of this support, and project downwards from it.<br />
<br />
I have found that an office stapler will work fine to hold things together while the glue dries (not all the staples will penetrate, so just pull out the bad ones with pliars and try again). You could also use some large rubber bands (with blocks underneath to keep it from pulling the reinforcements sideways), or spring clamps like in the picture below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSApplyGlue.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSpoolSupportSpringClamps.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHFSSSide1.jpg|border|right|250px|Attach a side to the top of the box]]Next, I select one of the sides (it does not matter which side) and attach it to the top of the box. Again, glue it and use staples or a clamp to hold it until the glue dries.<br />
<br />
Use staples to attach each of the other four sides to the top of the box - don't forget to glue the pieces.. If you have some extra help you can glue them in place and hold them with several large rubber bands, rather than with staples. There are pictures of the assembly below to clearify/confuse this step. <br />
<br />
I also have a photo of me tapping some of the staples into place, they were still strait, but didn't go in all the way, so I encouraged them a little.<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSSide2.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSide3.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSide4.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSStaple.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSHammerTap.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:TZHFSSSupportInstall.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the spool support into the box]]Now we can put the spool support into the box. I use glue... again, but this time I put it into the slots on the two sides as well as on the lower portion of the spool support (pictures below). <br />
<br />
I then put the spool support into the box, the box sides will flex enough to allow spool support so fit (photo at right). I do this with the box upside down, that means the side of the spool support which we marked as top also goes down (see picture below)<br />
<br />
I use staples again to hold it in place, but you could stack weights on it instead, or use large rubber bands. (picture of staples below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TSHFSGlueInSlots.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSuportStaples.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSBoxAssembled.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==The Spool==<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts for the Spool]][[Image:TZHFilamentHalfSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|The Posts installed on the Spool]]The spool itself is quite simple, and consists mostly of hardware, there are only two laser cut parts. All the parts used for this section are pictured at the left.<br />
<br />
I start by putting four of the nuts onto the four threaded rods, almost like the first picture below - I like to put the nuts further onto the rods so that when I put the short end of the rod through the spool bottom, all I have left to do is add nuts to that end. <br />
<br />
There are pictures to the right, and below of the rods and nuts connected to the spool bottom. '''NOTE''' the picture showing washers on the bottom of the spool is incorrect! if you put washers there, then the nuts and rods stick down too far and it will rub as it spins on the lazy susan bearing, '''leave the washers off''' I left the photo because it shows great alignment of the end of the rod and the nuts.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you put threadlock on all eight of the nuts that fasten the threaded rod to the bottom of the filament spool.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSThreadedRod.jpg<br />
file: TZHFRodOnSpoolBottom.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHFSLazySusanSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|Attach the Lazy Suzan Bearing to the spool]]Using the parts from the first picture below, we now attach the Lazy susan bearing to the box. Tighten them with pliars (or wrench) and the screwdriver. There is a photo of this below.<br />
<br />
Then, using the large Access hole in the Spool Support, attach the bearing to the bottom of the spool; as shown on the right.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanParts.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanBox.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanBox2.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSpoolInBox.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Loading The Spool=<br />
<br />
Most of the time, the PLA I get can be loaded onto the spool by removing the top and setting it on over the rods. When I load it this way, I sometimes have to keep it from dropping down around the bottom and tangling (Not difficult, but I do have to pay attention and correct it when it happens). The following photos and description are how I put the filament on in these cases. The other way to laod it is to wind the filament on... that one is mostly self explanatory and a bit time consuming to do.<br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHFSOrientFilament.jpg|border|right|250px|make sure you put the filament so that it will feed out of the feed hole]]I start by removing the top of the filament spool (if it is installed, in the case of a first time use we haven't installed it yet - notice that I do have four nuts on the bars though) and then I hold the filament so that I can see the end and which way the end wants to come off of the spool (pictured at right). Then I simply set it down over the bars.<br />
<br />
Slide the top of the spool onto the bars and put the last four nuts on. I usually use washers with the top of the spool, but they aren't necessary.<br />
<br />
Thats it. You have built the box and loaded it with filament for use! Enjoy!<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSLoadTheFilament.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSInstalSpoolTop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=TechZone_Horizontal_Filament_Spool&diff=27929TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool2011-02-03T04:04:26Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* The Spool */</p>
<hr />
<div>=General= <br />
This simple filament spool is designed to be inexpensive (both to buy and to ship as a kit) and durable. It is constructed from 3mm plywood, and steel hardware including a lazy susan bearing.<br />
<br />
This spool is a great addition to the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley]] or to the RepRap Mendel, it would of course work with any 3d printer which uses coiled filament.<br />
----<br />
[[Image:TZHorizontalSpool.jpg|border|right|400px|The TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool]]<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = ??.jpg<br />
|name = Filament Spool<br />
|description = A simple laser cut filament spool<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]]<br />
|reprap = Accessories<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
=Files=<br />
<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| Your-File-Name<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| These are the files you need to make a set of boards<br />
| [[media:Monotronics_design_files.xml.zip|.xml.zip]]<br />
| [[User:Example User|--Example User]] 12:00, Today's Date 20xx (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmwar.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
=Kit Contents=<br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHorizontalSpoolKitContents.jpg|border|left|250px|The contents of the TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool kit]][[Image:TZHorizontalSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|The Filament Spool when assembled.]]There are ten LaserCut pieces in the kit as well as a set of steel hardware. The picture at the left shows the LaserCut parts, all are labeled, except for the reinforcements. If you are missing anything from your kit when you unpack it you should contact TechZoneCommunications (if that is where you purchased your kit) and let them know which parts you still need. The Photo on the right shows the assembled spool, and the picture below it shows the contents of the hardware.<br />
<br />
Click on the images to see them larger.<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolHardware.jpg|border|right|250px|The Hardware included in the kit]]<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Assembly=<br />
The tools you will want, to make the assembly of this kit simpler, are a common office stapler with staples a screwdriver, some long nose pliars, and Glue. I use polyurethane glue, like gorilla glue, but any other strong glue ment for bonding wood will work just fine. you may also want some small clamps (like spring clamps); and/or large rubber bands.<br />
<br />
As the following steps are performed, I used a common office stapler to hold things in place until the glue dried, however, you could use some spring clamps or large rubber bands to hold it together until the glue dries. <br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
==The Housing (box)==<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolSupport.jpg|border|right|250px|Find which side of the support will be the top]]We are going to start by assembling the spool support. The spool support has five holes in it, one larger and four smaller holes, it is made from thre pieces, the one that matches the preceding description and the two long narrow pieces.<br />
<br />
To do this correctly, we need to idetify which side of the spool support is the top. I place the spool support into the slots of one of the sides and flip it over if needed, when it is turned the right direction it will appear to be in the center (left to right) as shown in the photo on the right. Take a moment and label the top of this support, so we don't mix it up in the next few steps. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSupportToSlots.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSupportLabeledTop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:TZHFSSpoolSupportReinforce.jpg|border|right|250px|Add reinforcements to the support]]Next, we add the reinforcements to the Spool Support. <br />
<br />
I put glue on the edge of all pieces in the lower portions of the jagged edges which are going to be fastened together (see below). It is smart to dry fit the pieces first to see where you will want this glue, and to make sure the pieces are going the right direction.<br />
<br />
The reinforcements should be flush with the top of this support, and project downwards from it.<br />
<br />
I have found that an office stapler will work fine to hold things together while the glue dries (not all the staples will penetrate, so just pull out the bad ones with pliars and try again). You could also use some large rubber bands (with blocks underneath to keep it from pulling the reinforcements sideways), or spring clamps like in the picture below.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSApplyGlue.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSpoolSupportSpringClamps.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHFSSSide1.jpg|border|right|250px|Attach a side to the top of the box]]Next, I select one of the sides (it does not matter which side) and attach it to the top of the box. Again, glue it and use staples or a clamp to hold it until the glue dries.<br />
<br />
Use staples to attach each of the other four sides to the top of the box - don't forget to glue the pieces.. If you have some extra help you can glue them in place and hold them with several large rubber bands, rather than with staples. There are pictures of the assembly below to clearify/confuse this step. <br />
<br />
I also have a photo of me tapping some of the staples into place, they were still strait, but didn't go in all the way, so I encouraged them a little.<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSSide2.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSide3.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSide4.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSStaple.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSHammerTap.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
[[Image:TZHFSSSupportInstall.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the spool support into the box]]Now we can put the spool support into the box. I use glue... again, but this time I put it into the slots on the two sides as well as on the lower portion of the spool support (pictures below). <br />
<br />
I then put the spool support into the box, the box sides will flex enough to allow spool support so fit (photo at right). I do this with the box upside down, that means the side of the spool support which we marked as top also goes down (see picture below)<br />
<br />
I use staples again to hold it in place, but you could stack weights on it instead, or use large rubber bands. (picture of staples below)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TSHFSGlueInSlots.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSuportStaples.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSBoxAssembled.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
==The Spool==<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts for the Spool]][[Image:TZHFilamentHalfSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|The Posts installed on the Spool]]The spool itself is quite simple, and consists mostly of hardware, there are only two laser cut parts. All the parts used for this section are pictured at the left.<br />
<br />
I start by putting four of the nuts onto the four threaded rods, almost like the first picture below - I like to put the nuts further onto the rods so that when I put the short end of the rod through the spool bottom, all I have left to do is add nuts to that end. <br />
<br />
There are pictures to the right, and below of the rods and nuts connected to the spool bottom. '''NOTE''' the picture showing washers on the bottom of the spool is incorrect! if you put washers there, then the nuts and rods stick down too far and it will rub as it spins on the lazy susan bearing, '''leave the washers off''' I left the photo because it shows great alignment of the end of the rod and the nuts.<br />
<br />
I recommend that you put threadlock on all eight of the nuts that fasten the threaded rod to the bottom of the filament spool.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSThreadedRod.jpg<br />
file: TZHFRodOnSpoolBottom.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHFSLazySusanSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|Attach the Lazy Suzan Bearing to the spool]]Using the parts from the first picture below, we now attach the Lazy susan bearing to the box. Tighten them with pliars (or wrench) and the screwdriver. There is a photo of this below.<br />
<br />
Then, using the large Access hole in the Spool Support, attach the bearing to the bottom of the spool; as shown on the right.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanParts.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanBox.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanBox2.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSpoolInBox.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Loading The Spool=<br />
<br />
Most of the time, the PLA I get can be loaded onto the spool by removing the top and setting it on over the rods. When I load it this way, I sometimes have to keep it from dropping down around the bottom and tangling (Not difficult, but I do have to pay attention and correct it when it happens). The following photos and description are how I put the filament on in these cases. The other way to laod it is to wind the filament on... that one is mostly self explanatory and a bit time consuming to do.<br />
<br />
[[Image:TZHFSOrientFilament.jpg|border|right|250px|make sure you put the filament so that it will feed out of the feed hole]]I start by removing the top of the filament spool (if it is installed, in the case of a first time use we haven't installed it yet - notice that I do have four nuts on the bars though) and then I hold the filament so that I can see the end and which way the end wants to come off of the spool (pictured at right). Then I simply set it down over the bars.<br />
<br />
Slide the top of the spool onto the bars and put the last four nuts on. I usually use washers with the top of the spool, but they aren't necessary.<br />
<br />
Thats it. You have built the box and loaded it with filament for use! Enjoy!<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSLoadTheFilament.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSInstalSpoolTop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:TZHFSpoolInBox.jpg&diff=27928File:TZHFSpoolInBox.jpg2011-02-03T03:46:45Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=TechZone_Horizontal_Filament_Spool&diff=27927TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool2011-02-03T03:45:40Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: /* The Spool */</p>
<hr />
<div>=General= <br />
This simple filament spool is designed to be inexpensive (both to buy and to ship as a kit) and durable. It is constructed from 3mm plywood, and steel hardware including a lazy susan bearing.<br />
<br />
This spool is a great addition to the [[TechZoneHuxley|TechZone Huxley]] or to the RepRap Mendel, it would of course work with any 3d printer which uses coiled filament.<br />
----<br />
[[Image:TZHorizontalSpool.jpg|border|right|400px|The TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool]]<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = ??.jpg<br />
|name = Filament Spool<br />
|description = A simple laser cut filament spool<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]]<br />
|reprap = Accessories<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]][[Category:Examples]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]],[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
=Files=<br />
<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| Your-File-Name<br />
| MONOTRONICS BOARDS<br />
| These are the files you need to make a set of boards<br />
| [[media:Monotronics_design_files.xml.zip|.xml.zip]]<br />
| [[User:Example User|--Example User]] 12:00, Today's Date 20xx (UTC)<br />
|}<br />
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{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| TechZone Monotronics Firmware<br />
| MONOTRONICS Firmware<br />
| This file is the firmware for the Monotronics<br />
| [[media:MonotronicsFirmwar.zip|.zip for use with arduino]]<br />
| [[User:kymberlyaandrus|--Tech Zone Communications]] Jan 16, 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
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=Kit Contents=<br />
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[[Image:TZHorizontalSpoolKitContents.jpg|border|left|250px|The contents of the TechZone Horizontal Filament Spool kit]][[Image:TZHorizontalSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|The Filament Spool when assembled.]]There are ten LaserCut pieces in the kit as well as a set of steel hardware. The picture at the left shows the LaserCut parts, all are labeled, except for the reinforcements. If you are missing anything from your kit when you unpack it you should contact TechZoneCommunications (if that is where you purchased your kit) and let them know which parts you still need. The Photo on the right shows the assembled spool, and the picture below it shows the contents of the hardware.<br />
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Click on the images to see them larger.<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolHardware.jpg|border|right|250px|The Hardware included in the kit]]<br />
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=Assembly=<br />
The tools you will want, to make the assembly of this kit simpler, are a common office stapler with staples a screwdriver, some long nose pliars, and Glue. I use polyurethane glue, like gorilla glue, but any other strong glue ment for bonding wood will work just fine. you may also want some small clamps (like spring clamps); and/or large rubber bands.<br />
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As the following steps are performed, I used a common office stapler to hold things in place until the glue dried, however, you could use some spring clamps or large rubber bands to hold it together until the glue dries. <br />
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==The Housing (box)==<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolSupport.jpg|border|right|250px|Find which side of the support will be the top]]We are going to start by assembling the spool support. The spool support has five holes in it, one larger and four smaller holes, it is made from thre pieces, the one that matches the preceding description and the two long narrow pieces.<br />
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To do this correctly, we need to idetify which side of the spool support is the top. I place the spool support into the slots of one of the sides and flip it over if needed, when it is turned the right direction it will appear to be in the center (left to right) as shown in the photo on the right. Take a moment and label the top of this support, so we don't mix it up in the next few steps. <br />
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<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSupportToSlots.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSupportLabeledTop.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
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[[Image:TZHFSSpoolSupportReinforce.jpg|border|right|250px|Add reinforcements to the support]]Next, we add the reinforcements to the Spool Support. <br />
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I put glue on the edge of all pieces in the lower portions of the jagged edges which are going to be fastened together (see below). It is smart to dry fit the pieces first to see where you will want this glue, and to make sure the pieces are going the right direction.<br />
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The reinforcements should be flush with the top of this support, and project downwards from it.<br />
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I have found that an office stapler will work fine to hold things together while the glue dries (not all the staples will penetrate, so just pull out the bad ones with pliars and try again). You could also use some large rubber bands (with blocks underneath to keep it from pulling the reinforcements sideways), or spring clamps like in the picture below.<br />
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<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSApplyGlue.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSpoolSupportSpringClamps.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
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[[Image:TZHFSSSide1.jpg|border|right|250px|Attach a side to the top of the box]]Next, I select one of the sides (it does not matter which side) and attach it to the top of the box. Again, glue it and use staples or a clamp to hold it until the glue dries.<br />
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Use staples to attach each of the other four sides to the top of the box - don't forget to glue the pieces.. If you have some extra help you can glue them in place and hold them with several large rubber bands, rather than with staples. There are pictures of the assembly below to clearify/confuse this step. <br />
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I also have a photo of me tapping some of the staples into place, they were still strait, but didn't go in all the way, so I encouraged them a little.<br />
<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSSide2.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSide3.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSide4.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSStaple.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSHammerTap.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
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[[Image:TZHFSSSupportInstall.jpg|border|right|250px|Install the spool support into the box]]Now we can put the spool support into the box. I use glue... again, but this time I put it into the slots on the two sides as well as on the lower portion of the spool support (pictures below). <br />
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I then put the spool support into the box, the box sides will flex enough to allow spool support so fit (photo at right). I do this with the box upside down, that means the side of the spool support which we marked as top also goes down (see picture below)<br />
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I use staples again to hold it in place, but you could stack weights on it instead, or use large rubber bands. (picture of staples below)<br />
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<gallery><br />
file: TSHFSGlueInSlots.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSSuportStaples.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSBoxAssembled.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
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==The Spool==<br />
[[Image:TZHFilamentSpoolParts.jpg|border|left|250px|Parts for the Spool]][[Image:TZHFilamentHalfSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|The Posts installed on the Spool]]The spool itself is quite simple, and consists mostly of hardware, there are only two laser cut parts. All the parts used for this section are pictured at the left.<br />
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I start by putting four of the nuts onto the four threaded rods, almost like the first picture below - I like to put the nuts further onto the rods so that when I put the short end of the rod through the spool bottom, all I have left to do is add nuts to that end. <br />
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There are pictures to the right, and below of the rods and nuts connected to the spool bottom. '''NOTE''' the picture showing washers on the bottom of the spool is incorrect! if you put washers there, then the nuts and rods stick down too far and it will rub as it spins on the lazy susan bearing, '''leave the washers off''' I left the photo because it shows great alignment of the end of the rod and the nuts.<br />
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I recommend that you put threadlock on all eight of the nuts that fasten the threaded rod to the bottom of the filament spool.<br />
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<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSThreadedRod.jpg<br />
file: TZHFRodOnSpoolBottom.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
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[[Image:TZHFSLazySusanSpool.jpg|border|right|250px|Attach the Lazy Suzan Bearing to the box]]Using the parts from the first picture below, we now attach the Lazy susan bearing to the box. Tighten them with pliars (or wrench) and the screwdriver. There is a photo of this below.<br />
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Then, using the large Access hole in the Spool Support, attach the bearing to the bottom of the spool; as shown on the right.<br />
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<gallery><br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanParts.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanBox.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSLazySusanBox2.jpg<br />
file: TZHFSpoolInBox.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
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=Design considerations and thoughts=</div>Kymberlyaandrushttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:TZHFSLazySusanBox2.jpg&diff=27924File:TZHFSLazySusanBox2.jpg2011-02-03T03:00:49Z<p>Kymberlyaandrus: </p>
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<div></div>Kymberlyaandrus