https://reprap.org/mediawiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=MikeP-NZ&feedformat=atomRepRap - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T09:50:10ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.30.0https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/New_Zealand&diff=142611RUG/New Zealand2015-01-21T09:52:45Z<p>MikeP-NZ: /* This area is to share and help people in New Zealand with sourcing parts for building Repraps and Repstraps */</p>
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[[Image:20px-Exquisite-khelpcenter.png|frameless|right]][http://forums.reprap.org/feed.php?41 New Zealand Forum/Mailing List]</h2><br />
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= '''This area is to share and help people in New Zealand with sourcing parts for building Repraps and Repstraps'''= <br />
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{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: blue" | Due to the different models / construction methods / experimental design work / budgets, a number of different types of suppliers are being listed. <br />
People can add suppliers that they have used or believe have parts that may assist people; <br />
People can also add comments about current listed suppliers. <br />
<br />
The listed suppliers are not based on lowest price. Check availability and price with supplier before purchase as any information that has been given may have changed. <br />
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If adding please list- Company, Country location, Web site and Parts stocked and any other information that may be of help. - RepRot - BAK Rotorua. <br />
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{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''New Zealand Filament Suppliers:''' <br />
|}<br />
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* '''Diamond Age Solutions''' NZ [http://diamondage.co.nz] - (Vik Oliver) - Sells plastic filaments for RepRap, RapMan, Makerbot and similar 3D printers - PLA - different colours and different dia sizes and qualities, Also ABS. Sells worldwide..<br />
* '''MAKERshop''' NZ [http://www.makershop.co.nz] - Resells a selection of Diamondage Filaments. As well as 1.75mm PLA and ABS from Flashforge.<br />
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{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''New Zealand 3D Printers Suppliers:''' <br />
|}<br />
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* '''Bay CAD Services Ltd''' Napier, NZ [http://www.baycad.biz/home-test] -Rapman 3.1 3D Printer Kits , BFB-300 3D Printers.<br />
<br />
* '''Protoneer''' ,Wellington, NZ [http://shop.protoneer.co.nz] - UP Plus 3D Printer <br />
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{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''New Zealand RepRap Part Suppliers:''' <br />
|}<br />
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* '''Trade Me''' NZ [http://www.trademe.co.nz] - Use search "Reprap" also "3D printers" - Number of people making/selling Reprap parts/components and other bits..<br />
<br />
* '''Diamond Age Solutions''' NZ [http://diamondage.co.nz] - (Vik Oliver)- Supplying (made on request) M6 brass heater barrels, nozzles, PTFE insulators etc. and will do hot end kits complete with thermistor (PTFE insulator, M6 brass barrel, 4 ohm element in fire cement, 100K thermistor and nozzle to suit). Supplies model helicopter drive belts with free gears. <br />
<br />
* '''MAKERshop''' NZ [http://www.makershop.co.nz] - Most of the electronic and mechanical components are available. <br />
<br />
* '''Protoneer''' NZ [http://shop.protoneer.co.nz] - Supplier of Openbeam-Aluminium Extrusions, prototyping and automation parts.<br />
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{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''New Zealand Component Part Suppliers:''' <br />
|}<br />
<br />
* '''Jaycar''' NZ [http://www.jaycar.co.nz] - Heater driver transistors TIP122, Thermocouple ,Un-insulated nichrome wire WW4040, Electrical components, misc, screws, plug connectors, etc. (Check catalogue, if not locally in stock, local store will often order at no freight, about a week delivery time frame). <br />
<br />
* '''Element14''' NZ [http://nz.element14.com/] (formerly called Farnell) - Major NZ source of electrical components, Thermocouple Amplifier IC AD595AG, Fischer Elektronix WLK5 adhesive thermal conductive - good for glueing heatsinks and power resistors for heated bed - rated up to temp operating 150 C. <br />
<br />
* '''RS''' NZ [http://newzealand.rs-online.com] - Electrical components, timing belts. <br />
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* '''PMB''' NZ [http://www.pmb.co.nz] - Electrical components.<br />
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* '''Kiatronics''' Tauranga, NZ [http://www.kiatronics.com] - Electrical components. <br />
<br />
* '''Surplustronics''' NZ [http://www.surplustronics.co.nz] - Electrical components. (Note: Stocks Nichrome wire but is un-insulated). <br />
<br />
* '''South Island Component Centre Limited''' NZ [http://www.sicom.co.nz] - Electrical components. <br />
<br />
* '''Mindkits''' NZ [http://www.mindkits.co.nz] - Arduino Specialists, Robotics parts - kits -sensors, Polyimide tape (Kapton). <br />
<br />
* '''Robokits''' NZ [http://www.robokits.co.nz/] - Robotics parts - Pololu A4983 Stepper Motor Drivers <br />
<br />
* '''Wattsup''' NZ [http://www.wattsup.co.nz] - Kapton tape - 10m length 25mm width. Approx $19.00 + freight +gst, Model Helicopter parts. <br />
<br />
* '''Robotronic''' NZ [http://www.robotronic.co.nz/] - Online shop for electronics and robotics. <br />
<br />
* '''Nicegear''' NZ [http://nicegear.co.nz/] - Online shop for electronics and robotics. <br />
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* '''Active Components''' NZ [http://www.mouser.co.nz/] - Electrical components. <br />
<br />
* '''HiQ Components''' NZ [http://hiq.co.nz] - Misc Electrical components/hardware/Plastic bits. <br />
<br />
* '''Dick Smith''' NZ [http://www.dse.co.nz] - mics parts, Electrical components (very limited). <br />
<br />
* '''Circuit Labs''' Auckland NZ [http://www.circuitlabs.co.nz] - PCB circuit manufacture.<br />
<br />
* '''QualiEco Circuits''' Auckland NZ [http://www.qualiecocircuits.co.nz/] - PCB circuit manufacture.<br />
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* '''PMS''' Auckland NZ [http://www.pmsnewzealand.com/] - PCB circuit manufacture.<br />
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* '''Photo Etch''' NZ [http://www.photoetch.co.nz/] - PCB circuit manufacture.<br />
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* '''Dotmar Universal Plastics''' NZ [http://www.dotmar.co.nz/] - PTFE, Acrylic, Polycarbonate, other types of plastics <br />
<br />
* '''NZ Miniature Bearings''' NZ [http://www.nzminiaturebearings.com/home] - Miniature bearings.<br />
<br />
* '''Wilson Brothers''' NZ South Island [http://www.wilsonbros.co.nz/ - 608 bearings, Timing belt: t5-840-5 Prusa Mendel, t5-1380-5 for Mendels. <br />
<br />
* '''Local skate shop''' NZ - 608 bearings. <br />
<br />
* '''Total Trade Supplies''' NZ [http://www.totaltrade.co.nz] - Steel rods silver steel (both metric and imperial). 0.5 mm, 0.4mm, 0.3mm drill bits - Actetal material - various round diameter core sizes 300mm long (good for machining parts but expensive and wasteful as they come in cylinder shape) - Misc bolts etc. <br />
<br />
* '''Mico Metals''' NZ [http://www.micometals.co.nz] - Misc steel and stainless rods, (usually imperial sizes). <br />
<br />
* '''Ullrich Aluminium''' NZ [http://www.ullrich-aluminium.co.nz] - misc aluminium profiles (minimum 2.5 metre lengths).<br />
<br />
* '''Anzor''' NZ [http://www.anzor.co.nz/] - Stainless steel fasteners and threaded rods. Wide range (everything required), cut-to-size service, online product listing and enquiry form. <br />
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* '''EDL Fasteners''' NZ [http://edlfast.co.nz] - misc screws - bolts <br />
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* '''Bolt Shop''' NZ [http://www.boltshop.co.nz] - fastners, based on the North Shore in Auckland, but not as friendly website, still worth asking.<br />
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* '''Bunnings''' NZ [http://www.bunnings.co.nz] - misc bolts, nuts, screws, Blue Scotch painters tape (for printing on), tools. <br />
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* '''Craftrunner''' NZ [http://www.craftrunner.co.nz/] - 4.5mm ball-chain. <br />
<br />
* '''Fire places & WoodBurners sellers''' NZ - Source of fireproof cement.<br />
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* '''Repco''' NZ - Source of fireproof cement, also Loctite Copper Maxx Silicone. <br />
<br />
* '''Super Cheap Auto''' NZ - Source of fireproof cement.<br />
<br />
* '''Molten Media Community Trust''' NZ [http://www.molten.org.nz/] 205a Wordsworth Street, Christchurch. Electronics Recycler, sells stepper motors, wiring, and other electronics.<br />
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{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''New Zealand Software Suppliers:'''<br />
|}<br />
<br />
* '''Bay CAD Services Ltd''' Napier, NZ [http://www.baycad.biz/prices/index.htm] - Alibre 3D CAD Software Note: Personal edition doen't allow import of STL files, but will allow objects to be export as STL files - still need to use a program like Blender to modify the exported STL to enable Reprap host software to print objects. <br />
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{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''Australia Parts Suppliers (who ship to NZ):'''<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* '''Small Parts & Bearings''' Australia [http://www.smallparts.com.au] -- Pulleys, belts, bearing, gears (Note-A$50 set freight charge per order). <br />
<br />
* '''Toysdownunder''' Australia [http://toysdownunder.com/] - Nicrome wire, Bearings, Electrical components, other parts for Repraps <br />
<br />
* '''AUSXMOD''' Australia [http://ausxmods.com.au] - Stepper-motors recommended by Reprap group Australia. <br />
<br />
* '''Australian Robotics''' Australia [http://www.australianrobotics.com.au/] - Popular SM-42BYG011-25 stepper motor supplier with A$15 shipping to NZ, online ordering.<br />
<br />
* '''Ocean Controls''' Australia [http://www.oceancontrols.com.au] - Stepper motor drivers [KTA-261 1 axis bipolar, KTA-263 3 axis motor driver].<br />
<br />
* '''Homann Designs''' Australia [http://www.homanndesigns.com] - Gecko stepper motor drivers, stepper motors ].<br />
<br />
Also check out the Australian RepRap suppliers: http://reprap.org/wiki/RUG/Australia/Suppliers.<br />
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{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''World Parts Suppliers (who ship to NZ):''' <br />
|}<br />
<br />
* '''Reprap parts Lister''' World [http://parts.reprap.org/about] - Reprap parts <br />
<br />
* '''The Big Bearing Store''' USA, Memphis [https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/] - Bearings. <br />
<br />
* '''VXB bearings''' USA, California [http://www.vxb.com/] - Bearings. <br />
<br />
* '''Digikey''' USA [http://www.digikey.com/] - Electrical components. <br />
<br />
* '''Makerbot''' USA, NY [http://wiki.makerbot.com/] - Reprap Parts . <br />
<br />
* '''Makergear''' USA [http://www.makergear.com/] - Reprap Parts. <br />
<br />
* '''Reprap stores''' USA [http://www.reprapstores.com/] - Reprap Parts. <br />
<br />
* '''Ultimachine''' South Pittsburg, USA [http://ultimachine.com/] - Reprap Parts. <br />
<br />
* '''Techzonecom''' USA [http://techzonecom.com/] - Reprap Parts. <br />
<br />
* '''Bits from Bytes''' UK [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/] - Reprap Parts. <br />
<br />
* '''Mendel Parts.Com''' UK [http://www.mendel-parts.com/] - Repraps Parts. <br />
<br />
* '''Reprap Source''' Germany [http://www.reprapsource.com/] - Repraps Parts. <br />
<br />
* '''iPrint3D''' Belgium [http://www.iprint3d.org/] - Reprap Parts.<br />
<br />
* '''2printbeta''' Germany [http://www.2printbeta.de/] - Reprap Parts.<br />
<br />
* '''Emakershop''' UK [http://www.emakershop.com/] - Reprap Parts.<br />
<br />
* '''RepRapPro Ltd''' UK [http://reprappro.com/] - RepRap Full Kits, Hardware only kits, Parts.<br />
<br />
* '''Reprap Stores''' UK [http://www.reprapstores.com/] - Reprap Parts.<br />
<br />
* '''Ebay''' UK [http://http://www.ebay.com/] - Reprap Parts<br />
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{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: brown" | '''Additional customs charges may apply when importing parts into New Zealand:''' <br />
|}<br />
<br />
The current rule appears to be that New Zealand customs will not collect if the total duty to be paid is less than $60. <br />
<br />
Charges are usually: <br />
<br />
15% GST <br />
<br />
$25.30 Import Handling fee (may be charged).<br />
<br />
$12.77 MAF Clearance fee <br />
<br />
It also depends on what the shipper has declared the item value to be. GST is calculated on the total of Item Value, Shipping and Insurance, and Duty.<br />
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{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: brown" | '''Another thing to keep in mind when ordering parts:''' <br />
|}<br />
<br />
To make a Reprap or Repstrap you need parts; you also don’t want to spend a fortune getting them. Time to make and obtain parts and assembly time can be another issue. A lot depends on what you want to get out of building a Reprap type machine. <br />
<br />
There are a number of options starting with buying a complete reprap kit of parts from a number of overseas suppliers. The cost of freight due to the weight of a reprap will be an issue. <br />
<br />
The next option is to purchase as many of the heavier parts as possible locally, e.g. threaded rods, nuts, washers, bolts. Also purchase other parts that are available in NZ. Check the Reprap New Zealand forums for locally printed Reprap parts (http://dev.forums.reprap.org/list.php?41). Using parts from old computer equipment can also reduce costs. You then can purchase the other bits not available in New Zealand from overseas. You need to be careful that you don’t end up paying for a lot of freight with multiple orders or using too many suppliers. <br />
<br />
Depending on what machining equipment you have, you can make a lot of the parts and reduce costs as well. If you have the machining equipment you can also play around with changing the design.<br />
<br />
If budget is an issue you need to do some homework and estimate all costs before purchasing parts.<br />
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[[Category:Suppliers by Region]]<br />
[[Category:RUG]]<br />
[[Category:Kiwi]]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Overall_Assy1.JPG&diff=114581File:Overall Assy1.JPG2014-01-06T10:22:16Z<p>MikeP-NZ: MikeP-NZ uploaded a new version of &quot;File:Overall Assy1.JPG&quot;: Updated to reflect current design</p>
<hr />
<div>A rendered image of the Delta-Pi Reprap design.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Delta-Pi&diff=114580Delta-Pi2014-01-06T10:20:26Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Status Update</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Delta-Pi<br />
|status = Working Prototype<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Overall_Assy1.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Delta-Pi is a Rostock style Delta printer with a new carriage design.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = Rostock<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Delta|Delta]][[Category:Delta]]<br />
|cadModel = [https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi GitHub]<br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This is essentially a new design in that it does not reuse any parts from an existing design. It does however take a lot of its heritage and style from Johan's [[Rostock]] design. A huge thanks to all of those whose hard work, knowledge and innovation have brought things this far. Now I hope that I can add my own little increment to the development of the Reprap concept.<br />
Mike Paauwe<br />
<br />
==History==<br />
The first iteration of this machine featured the vertical towers separated by 90° instead of the normal 120°. The reason for this was that it gave a better shaped build area. The build area was more square than hexagonal or triangular. After building the prototype it became obvious that the concept was seriously flawed. In theory the three towers kept the centre platform fully constrained but in practice the platform was relying on the torsional stiffness of the arms whenever one set of arms was near horizontal. The result wasn't really usable over a large portion of the intended build envelope. So the 90° tower angles were dropped and the design reverted to being a more standard Rostock Delta style 3D printer.<br />
<br />
==Design Changes==<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi photo of prototype.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Photo of the prototype after completing its first ever print]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing [[living hinge | live hinge]], spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Extruder Platform.jpg|right|401px|thumb|Hot end platform with a variant of the Kiss hot end and fan cooling]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage View.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Another view of the carriage design.]]<br />
<br />
===Crossed-Roller Carriage Design===<br />
The immediately obvious change is that the design does not use 8mm rod and LM8UU bearings. The Delta-Pi uses a live-loaded crossed-roller carriage design running on the corners of a 3/4"/19mm or a 20mm square tube. The tube is a sanded finish stainless steel that should be easily available anywhere in the world. The carriage design contains 8 pieces of 623ZZ bearing and another 2 pieces are used for the idler pulley making 10 per tower and 30 total for the printer. The carriage design features a live hinge and spring beam that allows the bearing tension to be adjusted.<br />
The inside of the tubes is open so that it can be used to run wires between the top and bottom of the printer.<br />
<br />
===Arm Design===<br />
The arm design has been changed slightly from the Rostock design. The arms use a 6mm carbon fibre tube and the tube is glued inside a clevis. That's not too different but the yokes at each end of the arm assembly are intended to simplify assembly and reduce the number of fasteners required. It also give a larger range of motion than the commonly used ball joints.<br />
<br />
===Belt connection===<br />
The belt can be either S2M or GT2 belt and is 6mm wide. The belt is connected to the carriage by looping a short length back on itself. The belt teeth interlock and a small piece of rod (3mm filament) stops the loop from pulling out.<br />
The belt is tensioned by moving the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
==Design Files==<br />
The design has been created using SolidWorks and the source files have been published on GitHub.<BR /><br />
Assembly documentation, BOMs and drawings are hosted on GitHub.<BR /><br />
[https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi]<BR /><br />
The STL files for printed parts are published on Thingiverse:<BR /><br />
[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53708 www.thingiverse.com/thing:53708]<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
The prototype was originally run using the Marlin firmware and later switched to the Repetier firmware.<br />
<br />
==Current Project Status==<br />
As of 6 January 2014. After a lengthy hiatus there has been some progress. The prototype now incorporates the E3D hot end and a derivative of the Air Tripper filament drive.<br />
I attempted to incorporate the bed leveling probe and switched to Marlin firmware briefly. It worked but not as well as I hoped so I've changed back to Repetier F/W.<br />
<br />
==Known Issues==<br />
*The [[bowden]] extruder used in this setup can make prints a little stringy if retracts are slow.<br />
*Calibrating the delta geometry can be "tricky".<br />
*Any play in the linkages makes operation very noisy and detracts from the positioning accuracy. This could be a problem as the printer ages and wears.<br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
Photos of the prototype here:[http://www.flickr.com/photos/86621828@N05/sets/72157632623446146/ on flickr.com]<BR /><br />
Video of the prototype here: [https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGyolvuY29uOzHDMwNHT6_VwP4YApPiwr on YouTube]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Useful_Software_Packages&diff=109711Useful Software Packages2013-11-06T04:14:08Z<p>MikeP-NZ: /* DesignSpark Mechanical */</p>
<hr />
<div>This is the place to put details of software packages that are useful for RepRap (like CAD programs), but that are not part of the RepRap project itself. Give a paragraph or so of explanation on each package and a link to its home page. Please also say what platforms it runs on, what licence it is distributed under, and whether it is free.<br />
<br />
==2D and 3D CAD software==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
===Open-source software===<br />
<br />
====Assimp====<br />
<br />
[http://assimp.sourceforge.net Open Asset Import Library] (short name: ''Assimp'') is a portable Open Source library to import various well-known 3D model formats in a uniform manner. The most recent version also knows how to export 3d files and is therefore suitable as general-purpose 3D model converter. See the [http://assimp.sourceforge.net/main_features.html feature list]. ([http://assimp.sourceforge.net/main_viewer.html The asset viewer] application is 'Windows only' I'm afraid.)<br />
<br />
====Art of Illusion====<br />
<br />
[[AoI]] is a graphics-oriented 3D modeler that's written entirely in Java. can be used to output STL files. or add [[Skeinforge]] to output GCode.<br />
<br />
Although it is a 3D graphics design tool, it is also good for engineering design. It has a very easy and quick-to-learn user interface. AoI runs on Linux, Windows or Mac, and is freely available under the GPL.<br />
<br />
AoI, for all its shortcomings, is probably the most used 3D modeling package in the RepRap community, primarily because of its very short learning curve. V2.7 experiences problems with booleans, and 2.6 is currently recommended - particularly with the CSG Evaluator plugin.<br />
<br />
There is also a page on [[Reprap-specific plugins for AoI]].<br />
<br />
[http://www.artofillusion.org/ Art of Illusion]<br />
<br />
====Blender====<br />
<br />
Blender was originally intended for the same applications as AoI. It has a very 'efficient' user interface, which includes a number of single-key keyboard commands. This is a very powerful and fast way of working, but can intimidate would-be users. (Don't be scared, blender is fun!) It may be arguably more powerful than AoI, and has a huge user community. Blender is scriptable in Python, runs on Linux, Windows or Mac, and is freely available under the GPL.<br />
<br />
[http://www.blender.org/ Blender]<br />
<br />
Also See:<br />
* [[Using Blender for making print-sheets]]<br />
* [http://homepage.ntlworld.com/r.burke2/precision_modelling1.html Blender Precision Modelling Tutorial]<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Blender Wikibooks: Blender]<br />
<br />
====BlenderCAD====<br />
BlenderCAD is a pre-alpha attempt to build CAD functionality into Blender.<br />
*[https://projects.blender.org/projects/blendercad/ Home Page ]<br />
*[https://projects.blender.org/forum/forum.php?thread_id=199203&forum_id=174 General Forum ]<br />
*[http://sourceforge.net/projects/blendercad/ Sourceforge page]<br />
*[http://lists.blender.org/mailman/listinfo/blendercad-dev Mailing List]<br />
*IRC: If you are interested the online meeting is on irc.freenode.net, channel #cad, and port 6667. The third Saturday of every month. 12:00 - 13:00, (GMT-7)<br />
<br />
====BRL-CAD====<br />
<br />
BRL-CAD is a cross-platform open source solid modeling system that includes interactive geometry editing, high-performance ray-tracing for rendering and geometric analysis, image and signal-processing tools, a system performance analysis benchmark suite, libraries for robust geometric representation, with more than 20 years of active development. BRL-CAD runs on BSD, Irix, Linux, Mac OS X, Solaris, and Windows. BRL-CAD became an open source project in 2004, with portions licensed under the LGPL and BSD licenses.<br />
<br />
[http://brlcad.org/ BRL-CAD]<br />
<br />
====FreeCAD====<br />
<br />
[[wikipedia:FreeCAD|FreeCAD]] is intended to be a full 3D mechanical engineering CAD package. It is still under development, but already usable. [[FreeCAD]] is based on [[wikipedia:OpenCasCade|OpenCasCade]], [[wikipedia:QT|QT]] and [[wikipedia:Python|Python]], runs on Linux, MacOSX and Windows, and is freely available under the [[wikipedia:GPL|GPL]] and [[wikipedia:LGPL|LGPL]]. It is aimed directly at mechanical engineering and product design but also fits in a wider range of uses around engineering, such as architecture or other engineering specialties and is oriented more toward technical drawings than freehand sketching--for example, you move objects by editing their XYZ coordinates. <br />
<br />
However, it has a much friendlier learning curve than say, [[OpenSCAD]] for those who are unfamiliar with programming. It can also open some OpenSCAD models (OpenSCAD needs to be installed). Being Free as Freedom, it is more suitable to use than proprietary software as [[Sketchup]].<br />
There is a dedicated wiki page where the community shares various -> [[FreeCAD|FreeCAD resources]] on tutorials, tips, cheats, any workarounds and so forth.<br />
<br />
[http://www.freecadweb.org/ FreeCAD Official Website]<br />
<br />
====HeeksCAD====<br />
<br />
HeeksCAD, like [[FreeCAD]], is based on [http://www.opencascade.org/ OpenCasCade], and has similar modeling functionality, with neutral IGES, STEP and STL file format exchange. It's much less dependent on parametric editing than FreeCAD and the GUI is more integrated, not modular. Its development has slowed down, and Windows installers have not been updated since 2011. The software needs to be compiled from source for Linux systems. Distributed under BSD license. <br />
<br />
* [https://github.com/Heeks/heekscad HeeksCAD Source code]<br />
* [https://code.google.com/p/heekscad/downloads/list HeeksCAD Downloads]<br />
<br />
====Inkscape====<br />
<br />
[http://www.inkscape.org/ Inkscape] is an Open Source vector graphics editor, with capabilities similar to Illustrator, CorelDraw, or Xara X. It uses the W3C standard Scalable Vector Graphics (SVG) file format. Inkscape is released under GPL Version 2.<br />
<br />
There is a plugin for Inkscape which allows generation of gcode from a path. You may need to add nodes and then straighten all line segments before gcoding the path (then perhaps edit output files) to them work, as currently (Mar 2012) Sprinter won't interpret curves correctly, and some of the GCodes seem to make it freeze.<br />
<br />
[http://www.cnc-club.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=35&start=0 Gcodetools]<br />
<br />
====K3D====<br />
<br />
Another simple 3D modeler with no STL support.<br />
<br />
[http://www.k-3d.org K3D]<br />
<br />
====LibreCAD====<br />
<br />
LibreCAD is an application for computer aided drafting in two dimensions (2D). It is a fork of QCAD. you can create technical drawings such as plans for buildings, interiors, mechanical parts or schemas and diagrams. LibreCAD works on Windows, Mac OS X and many Linux and Unix Systems. The source code is released under the GPL.<br />
<br />
[http://librecad.org/cms/home.html LibreCAD]<br />
<br />
====[[OpenSCAD]]====<br />
<br />
[[OpenSCAD]] is a scripted modeller which produces CSG (Constructive Solid Geometry) and 2D outlines.<br />
It is free software and available for Linux/UNIX, MS Windows and Apples Mac OS X.<br />
It supports DFX, STL and OFF file formats and is designed for the engineer not the artist.<br />
Can be used from the command line to generate bespoke STL objects. e.g. > openscad -m make -s gears_helical.stl -D teethNum=15 gears_helical.scad<br />
* [http://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD main page and download]<br />
* [http://rocklinux.net/mailman/listinfo/openscad Mailing list and archives]<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual Manual]<br />
* [http://blog.thingiverse.com/2009/11/06/in-which-openscad-wins-me-over/ Endorsement]<br />
<br />
====pyGear====<br />
<br />
Built on top of pythonOCC, OpenCascade, numpy and scipy, [http://sourceforge.net/projects/pygear/ pyGear] serves as an CAE/CAD-preprocessor generator of [[wikipedia:Involute_gear|involute gears]].<br />
<br />
====PythonOCC====<br />
<br />
A python wrapper for the [http://www.opencascade.org/ OpenCascade] and Salome ([http://sf.net/projects/salomegeometry salome-geometry] and [http://sf.net/projects/salomesmesh salome-mesh]) libraries. <br />
Supports constructive solid geometry, data exchange, meshing, GUI development (wxPython, PyQt, python-xlib), parametric modeling.<br />
FEM solver integration with ([http://www.code-aster.org/V2/spip.php?rubrique2 Code Aster]) is underway.<br />
(Not a GUI based CAD program, but aims to be a scripting framework for rapid development of custom CAE solutions.)<br />
<br />
[http://www.pythonocc.org/ PythonOCC]<br />
<br />
====QCAD====<br />
<br />
QCAD is an application for computer aided drafting in two dimensions (2D). With QCAD you can create technical drawings such as plans for buildings, interiors, mechanical parts or schemas and diagrams. QCAD works on Windows, Mac OS X and many Linux and Unix Systems. The source code of the free QCAD community edition is released under the GPL.<br />
<br />
[http://www.ribbonsoft.com/qcad.html QCAD]<br />
<br />
==== Shapesmith ====<br />
<br />
"Parametric, Open-Source 3D Modeling in your browser".<br />
Benjamin Nortier has released Shapesmith under the Apache License on Github.<br />
(Erlang, JavaScript).<br />
<br />
http://shapesmith.net/<br />
<br />
==== SolveSpace ====<br />
SolveSpace is a parametric 3d CAD program.<br />
<br />
Release 2.0 is now available under the GPL and offers:<br />
* '''modeling 3d parts''' — draw with extrudes, revolves, and Boolean (union / difference) operations <br />
* '''modeling 2d parts''' — draw the part as a single section, and export DXF, PDF, SVG; use 3d assembly to verify fit <br />
* '''preparing CAM data''' — export 2d vector art for a waterjet machine or laser cutter; or generate STEP or '''STL''', for import into third-party CAM software <br />
* '''mechanism design''' — use the constraint solver to simulate planar or spatial linkages, with pin, ball, or slide joints <br />
* '''plane and solid geometry''' — replace hand-solved trigonometry and spreadsheets with a live dimensioned drawing <br />
<br />
http://solvespace.com<br />
<br />
<br />
====Wings3D====<br />
<br />
Wings3D is a free and open source 3D modeller ([[Wikipedia: subdivision modeller]]). Designs can be exported as STL and STL files can be imported. Wings3d can be extended using available plugins, and you can write your own plugins in Erlang.<br />
(The [[#KiCad]] 3D view uses Wings3D)<br />
<br />
* official site: http://www.wings3d.com/<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Wings_3D Wikibooks: Wings 3D] and [[Wikipedia: Wings 3D]]<br />
* [http://wings.sourceforge.net Sourceforge: Wings3D] and [https://github.com/dgud/wings GitHub: Wings3D]<br />
<br />
===Unknown licence===<br />
<br />
====Archimedes====<br />
<br />
Brasilian 3D package. Apparently became orphanware in 2007.<br />
<br />
[http://archimedescad.github.io/Archimedes/ Archimedes]<br />
<br />
==== Replath ====<br />
<br />
Many of the programs on this page generate files in SVG or DXF or Gerber format.<br />
[[Builders/Replath]] imports files in those formats<br />
and produces standard G-code files and standard SVG files (and a few other formats).<br />
<br />
===Closed source===<br />
====Autodesk 123D Beta====<br />
Clean, Simple<br />
<br />
http://www.123dapp.com/<br />
<br />
<br />
====Autodesk Inventor (Student Version)====<br />
Students can download the professional version of Autodesk Inventor 2010, 2011 or 2012 after registration on the Autodesk website (link below). It is a powerful tool for creating 3D CAD models. It can import and export the industrial standard CAD files like STEP or IGES and export STL files.<br />
<br />
[http://students.autodesk.com/ Autodesk]<br />
<br />
<br />
====Autodesk Inventor Fusion====<br />
3D (non-parametric) modeling application is simple to learn and use. You can download a free widows version at [http://labs.autodesk.com/utilities/fusion/ Autodesk Labs] and is good until June 1, 2011. A Mac native preview has been unveiled and is planned to be available early 2012. More information on [http://www.facebook.com/InventorFusion Facebook].<br />
This software includes solid and surface modeling along with translators and exporters for many profesional cad tools.<br />
<br />
<br />
====AutoQ3D====<br />
AutoQ3D Animation is an affordable and easy 3D CAD with animation capabilities. It is suitable for anyone interested in learning 3D CAD and Animation before using more sophisticated packages. It runs on Windows, Mac, Linux, iOS and Android.<br />
<br />
[http://autoq3d.com/ AutoQ3D]<br />
<br />
<br />
====CATIA====<br />
CATIA is a massively insanely expensive software package that is used by aerospace and automobile manufacturers. Licenses can be in the tens of thousands of dollars depending on what features you buy. It is made by Dessault Systèmes, the same company that makes SolidWorks and the free 2D Draft Sight CAD software.<br />
<br />
[http://www.3ds.com/products/catia/ CATIA]<br />
<br />
<br />
====Cheetah3D====<br />
Cheetah3D is a powerful 3D modeling, rendering and animation software for Mac OS X. It offers native support for importing and exporting STL files (ASCII and Binary).<br />
<br />
[http://www.cheetah3d.com Cheetah3D]<br />
<br />
<br />
====CoCreate====<br />
CoCreate Modeling Personal Edition is free for non-professional use. It is limited to 60 parts in one design and can only save designs in its own proprietary format, but it can export STL and VRML and import STEP and IGES. It is Windows only and needs an internet connection every three days. Apparently, very easy to use. {content abstracted from [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/06/from-illusion-to-creation.html Hydraraptor]}<br />
<br />
[http://www.ptc.com/products/cocreate/ CoCreate]<br />
<br />
<br />
====DesignSpark Mechanical====<br />
DesignSpark Mechanical is a free 3D design software. A derivative of the Spaceclaim software, it is provided free by RS components.<br />
<br />
[http://www.designspark.com/eng/page/mechanical http://www.designspark.com/eng/page/mechanical]<br />
<br />
====iTracer====<br />
iTracer is a 3D modeling and rendering application for the iPhone. There are instructions for creating models for 3D printing using it [http://www.instructables.com/id/Creating-a-Model-for-3D-Printing-on-an-iPhoneiPod/ on Instructables here]. It costs $2.<br />
<br />
[http://www.mode2.com.br/Apps/Apps.html iTracer]<br />
<br />
<br />
====Moldex3D eDesign====<br />
Moldex3D is the world leading CAE product for the plastic injection molding industry. With the best-in-class analysis technology, Moldex3D can help you carry out in-depth simulation of the widest range of injection molding processes and to optimize product designs and manufacturability. In addition, its high compatibility and adaptability have provided users with instant connection to mainstream CAD systems, generating a flexible simulation-driven design platform.<br />
<br />
[https://www.polymerportal.org/software Moldex3D eDesign]<br />
<br />
<br />
====Moment of Inspiration (MoI 3D)====<br />
3D modeling for designers and artists. NURBS-based CAD modeling tool with excelllent quality mesh export. Costs $295 for the full license, free to try for a month.<br />
[http://moi3d.com MoI 3D]<br />
<br />
<br />
====NX Unigraphix (a.k.a U-G)====<br />
This, along with Catia is the other major player in proprietary CAD software. It is crazy expensive just like Catia and used by major manufacturers.<br />
<br />
[http://www.plm.automation.siemens.com/en_us/products/nx/ Unigraphics NX]<br />
<br />
<br />
====Rhino====<br />
Rhino is an easy 3D CAD with strong modeling capabilities. It is the most used software in entire micro-verticals such as architecture and jewelry.<br />
<br />
[http://www.rhino3d.com Rhino 3D]<br />
<br />
<br />
====Sketchup====<br />
Sketchup is primarily intended for designing architectural models, but it can be used for general 3D design as well.<br />
<br />
[http://www.sketchup.com/ SketchUp]<br />
<br />
SketchUp Make 2013 now includes an Extension Warehouse, and you can install the import / export STL extension from there. The link is [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl here, or search for it in SketchUp Make]<br />
<br />
(deprecated) For details of plugins that will output STL files from Sketchup:<br />
see here<br />
* [http://www.cerebralmeltdown.com/cncstuff/stl/index.htm (cerebralmeltdown.com)]<br />
and here<br />
* [http://capolight.wordpress.com/2010/06/21/importing-exporting-and-making-manifold-objects-in-sketchup/ (capolight.wordpress.com)]<br />
and here a FREE one<br />
* [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl (guitar-list.com) STL File Export Plugin]<br />
<br />
Also See:<br />
* [[Sketchup Modeling for 3d Printing]]<br />
* Youtube videos: [http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=SketchUp SketchUp]<br />
<br />
<br />
====SolidWorks====<br />
SolidWorks is one of the most popular closed-source CAD programs. The parts on the Prusa Mendel were designed using this software. It is owned by Dessault Systems which also makes Catia. An educational version of Solidworks is available for about 200 bucks I believe.<br />
<br />
http://www.solidworks.com<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Tinkercad ====<br />
[http://tinkercad.com Tinkercad] - a simple but effective online modelling tool. Useful for quickly creating prototypes.<br />
Specifically designed for 3D printers like RepRap.<br />
<br />
==Software for dealing with STL files ==<br />
<br />
===Open-source software===<br />
<br />
====MeshLab====<br />
<br />
An open source, portable, and extensible system for the processing and editing of unstructured 3D triangular meshes. It also has an as yet unexploited object slicing routine which is extremely quick.<br />
<br />
[http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ MeshLab]<br />
<br />
====Skeinforge====<br />
<br />
Converts STL files to Gcodes. Is included with [[ReplicatorG]]. Horribly ugly user interface. It looks like someone used a shotgun loaded with buttons. Works slow, but has many options and is reliable<br />
<br />
====Slic3r====<br />
<br />
Converts STL files to Gcodes. 100 times faster than skeinforge, but still great gcode output. relatively new. see: [[Slic3r]] and http://slic3r.org/<br />
<br />
====Repsnapper====<br />
[[Repsnapper]] is a Slicer completely written in C++. With 3D preview.<br />
<br />
<br />
====Cura====<br />
<br />
[[Cura]], Slicer and GCode sender in one. Tries to be a single solution software where different parts can be used without depending on the other.<br />
<br />
====ConvertSTL====<br />
<br />
A ruby script that converts STL files between ASCII and binary encoding. https://github.com/cmpolis/convertSTL<br />
<br />
====IVCON====<br />
<br />
IVCON is a command-line C++ program for 3D graphics file conversion which reads and writes a variety of 3D graphics file formats, including STL, converting from one to the other.<br />
http://people.sc.fsu.edu/~jburkardt/cpp_src/ivcon/ivcon.html<br />
<br />
==== Creation Workshop ====<br />
<br />
[[Creation Workshop]] is slicer and DLP control software for (wet) liquid stereolithography and (dry) powder 3D printing.<br />
<br />
=== Closed-source ===<br />
<br />
====netfabb Studio====<br />
<br />
A tool for repairing and manipulations of STL files. <br />
<br />
netfabb Studio is free, but not open source. It now available for Windows, Mac and Linux. The free version of which can be found here: [http://www.netfabb.com/basic.php].<br />
<br />
netfabb Studio is software tailored for additive fabrication, rapid prototyping and 3D printing. It includes the ability of viewing, editing, repairing and analyzing stl-files or slice-based files in various formats.<br />
<br />
[http://www.netfabb.com/ netfabb Studio]<br />
<br />
====Kisslicer====<br />
<br />
STL to G-code for additive extrusion printing.<br />
<br />
Window, Mac, Linux, FreeBSD<br />
<br />
http://kisslicer.com/<br />
<br />
http://kisslicer.com/forum/index.php<br />
<br />
====MeshMixer====<br />
<br />
Autodesk MeshMixer is a program that imports, manipulates, and converts 3D meshes. One of its more useful features is the "Analysis" tool, which shows areas of a mesh that could cause problems for 3D printing. It also provides a simple repair tool that fixes some of these problems. Be careful with the "Autorepair All" feature however, since it sometimes removes large portions of a part. It also has integration with the Autodesk 3D print utility to allow printing directly from the program (assuming a compatible printer).<br />
<br />
MeshMixer is free to download and use, and it runs on Windows and OSX.<br />
<br />
http://www.autodeskresearch.com/projects/meshmixer<br />
<br />
http://www.meshmixer.com/<br />
<br />
==Software for sending G-code to the printer ==<br />
<br />
See [[CAM Toolchains#RepRap Drivers]].<br />
<br />
==CAD software for electronics==<br />
<br />
===Open-source software===<br />
<br />
====gEDA/gaf====<br />
<br />
A full GPL'd suite and toolkit of Electronic Design Automation tools. These tools are used for electrical circuit design, <br />
schematic capture, simulation, prototyping, and production. <br />
<br />
Compiles / runs on Linux and Mac Os X. Binaries available for Debian, SUSE, and Mac.<br />
<br />
[http://www.gpleda.org/index.html gEDA] [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GEDA Wikipedia]<br><br />
See also: A [[Generation_7_Electronics#Typical_Work_Loop_with_gEDA|typical work loop with gEDA]].<br />
<br />
====KiCad====<br />
: ''main article: [[KiCad]]''<br />
<br />
[[KiCad]] is an open source (GPL) software for the creation of electronic schematic diagrams and printed circuit board artwork. Users are making complex boards with it, as boards of 4 layers or more, with ARM microcontrollers running at 450MHz.<br />
<br />
KiCad runs on Linux, Windows or Mac. It is available on Linux Ubuntu repositories ("app store") meaning that it can be installed with one mouse click.<br />
(The KiCad 3D view uses [[#Wings3D]]).<br />
<br />
* official site: http://www.kicad-pcb.org/<br />
<br />
====Gerbv====<br />
<br />
An open-source (ODV) program for displaying Gerber files. Useful for checking.<br />
<br />
[http://gerbv.gpleda.org Gerbv]<br />
<br />
====Stripboard Designer 1.0====<br />
<br />
Open source (BSD) app written in freeware Visual Basic 2008 Express for Wintel machines<br />
<br />
[http://3dreplicators.com/New%20Front%20Page/Documentation/Tools/Stripboard%20designer.htm Stripboard Designer 1.0]<br />
<br />
====Stripes====<br />
<br />
Open source (GPL) version of Stripboard Designer written by Julian Skidmore in Java<br />
<br />
[http://sites.google.com/site/libby8dev/stripes Stripes]<br />
<br />
====DIY Layout Creator====<br />
<br />
DIYLC is an easy to use, yet powerful open source (GPL) multiplatform (Java) software for creating stripboard and universal board designs.<br />
<br />
[http://code.google.com/p/diy-layout-creator DIYLC]<br />
<br />
===Closed-source===<br />
<br />
====Eagle====<br />
<br />
Proprietary circuit-diagram and PCB design system with a slightly reduced-capabilities freeware version. It includes an autorouter for PCB creation. This is the package that has been used to design the majority of the RepRap electronics. It is also used to design the open-source [http://arduino.cc/ Arduino microcontroller], derivatives of which are used in RepRap. It runs on Linux, Windows or Mac.<br />
<br />
[http://www.cadsoft.de Eagle]<br />
<br />
== Further reading ==<br />
<br />
You can help:<br />
go through the<br />
[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?12,13723 "AoI Alternatives"] thread<br />
and add at least a brief mention of packages mentioned there but not yet listed on this page:<br />
avoCADo, MLCad, CollabCAD, etc.<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[ZornStrap]] mentions more CAD and FEM and CFD software tools.<br />
* [http://opencircuits.com/stripboard "OpenCircuits: stripboard"] has more specific details on designing boards with stripboard.<br />
* [http://opencircuits.com/software_tool "OpenCircuits: software tool"] has a huge list of software tools for electronics: schematic capture tools, circuit simulation tools, custom PCB layout tools, autorouters, etc.<br />
* [[UsefulLinks]]<br />
* [http://blog.thingiverse.com/2009/11/06/in-which-openscad-wins-me-over/ Endorsement]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Model manufacturing software| ]]<br />
[[Category:Model manufacturing| ]]<br />
[[Category:Software| ]]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Printrboard&diff=109299Printrboard2013-10-31T03:54:51Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Warning about GEEEtech modified version</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|status = working<br />
|name = Printrboard<br />
|image = PrintrboardRevB_Front.jpg<br />
|description = Revision D<br />
|license = CC ShareAlike 3.0<br />
|author = lwalkera (Ceriand)<br />
|reprap = Teensylu<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]][[Category:Electronics]], [[:Category:Development|Development]][[Category:Development]], [[:Category:Mendel Development|Mendel Development]][[Category:Mendel Development]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle<br />
|url = [https://github.com/lwalkera/printrboard Github source]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The Printrboard electronic set was designed by members of the [[Printrbot]] team in order to eliminate the production and functionality shortcomings of older RepRap electronics sets. Printrboard improves upon the previous production-grade electronics set ([[Gen6]]) by adding heatbed and SD card support, reverting to 1/16 microstepping Allegro stepper drivers, and improving connectivity reliability and reducing cost by elimination of the FTDI UART chip. Printrboard also has expansion headers supporting I2C, SPI, UART, and ADC pins. All extra I/O ports of the AT90USB have been broken out to headers for prototyping and expansion.<br />
<br />
Printrboard is a derivative of [[Teensylu]], an AT90USB1286 development board originally based on [[Sanguinololu]]. The Atmel AT90USB1286 MCU has on-chip USB, removing the need for the FTDI UART (USB-to-serial) IC. On-chip USB means dramatically faster firmware upload times and communication. The AT90USB connects at any baud rate regardless of firmware configuration, and operates virtually free of serial communication errors/pauses.<br />
<br />
== Features ==<br />
;* Atmel AT90USB1286 Microcontroller (or AT90USB1287 drop-in compatible for 20mhz support)<br />
:-- Native USB interface. No FTDI serial-to-USB chip!<br />
:-- 128kb Flash<br />
;* Four integrated Allegro A4982 Stepper Drivers (no Pololus needed)<br />
;* Thermistor Connectivity: 2<br />
;* 2 N-MOSFETs for Extruder and Heatbed control <br />
;* 1 N-MOSFET for low power Fan or motor<br />
;* Onboard SD card slot<br />
;* Four Endstop connectors supplied @ 5V. Includes X, Y, Z, and fourth endstop called E-Stop to be used as an emergency stop, or extruder stop (to be added in firmware).<br />
;* Supports multiple power configurations (Carried from Sanguinololu)<br />
:-- Logic & Motors supplied by ATX or laptop power supply (12-20V 120W minimum)<br />
:-- Logic supplied by USB bus (if enabled by solder jumper)<br />
:-- Logic supplied by on-board voltage regulator<br />
:-- on-board USB connectivity <br />
;* Edge connectors enabling right-angle connections<br />
;* 14 Extra pins available for expansion and development, with the following capabilities<br />
:-- UART1 (RX and TX)<br />
:-- I2C (SDA and SCL)<br />
:-- SPI (MOSI, MISO, SCK)<br />
:-- PWM pin (1)<br />
:-- Analog I/O (6)<br />
:-- JTAG (uses some of the ADC pins)<br />
;* Additional 14 pin header with remaining I/O for prototyping<br />
;* SMT Components sized at 0805, and no QFNs for easier soldering.<br />
;* 4-Layer PCB with proper ground plane and power distribution networks<br />
;* Small design - board is 100mm x 60mm (4" x 2.4")<br />
<br />
==Benefits of this Design==<br />
* Utilizes integrated Allegro 1/16 micro-stepping drivers for smooth operation.<br />
* Integrated USB controller provides 12MBps bandwidth, instead of usual 38400-115200 baud via FTDI. Result: Virtually no serial communication errors (common with [[Sanguinololu]] and [[Generation_6_Electronics]]).<br />
* Integrated micro-SD Card slot<br />
* Uses small standard Molex connectors for motors, heater, and endstops.<br />
* Lowest cost and greatest performance of all RepRap motherboards at time of release, March 2012.<br />
<br />
==Software==<br />
All preassembled Printrboards come pre-loaded with a bootloader and firmware. You may wish to use alternative (or newer) firmware, modify calibration data for use with another style of RepRap, or perhaps assemble your own board.<br />
<br />
To use a Printrboard, you will need to load appropriate USB drivers, either get it from<br />
* Windows-only: [http://pjrc.com/teensy/serial_install.exe USB Serial Device] (PRJC.com) or<br />
* Windows/Mac/Linux: packaged with [http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx Atmel's FLIP software].<br />
<br />
===Compatible Firmware===<br />
*'''Sprinter''' [[Sprinter]]: Supported, use MOTHERBOARD == 9.<br />
*'''Marlin''' [[Marlin]]: No official support yet, but works with [https://github.com/lincomatic/Marlin Lincomatic's fork]. <br />
*'''Repetier''' [[List_of_Firmware#Repetier-Firmware]]: Supported, use MOTHERBOARD == 9.<br />
*'''grbl''' [[List_of_Firmware#Grbl]]: No official support yet, but works with [http://blog.lincomatic.com/?p=564 Lincomatic's fork].<br />
<br />
''(Other firmwares are currently untested but any firmware for an arduino mega should work with proper pin setup.)<br />
<br />
===Bootloaders===<br />
There is no native Arduino bootloader for the AT90USB series microcontrollers, however, there is excellent opensource support for the MCU and Arduino integration is easily achieved. <br />
*'''LUFA's CDC Bootloader''': Allows direct uploading of firmware through Arduino/avrude via avr109 protocol. Requires no driver on Linux/Mac and free INF installer to use the built-in Windows driver, and Arduino 022 with modified Teensylu boards configuration. Avrdude within Arduino directory must also be upgraded to newest version. Limited to 64k flash space by the protocol.<br />
*'''LUFA's HID Bootloader''': No Arduino integration. No drivers required. Allows firmware to be uploaded by command prompt.<br />
*'''Atmel's DFU Bootloader''': Factory installed bootloader. No Arduino integration. Allows firmware to be uploaded by Atmel's free FLIP software (Windows only). See [[Teensylu#Sprinter]] for Mac/Linux equivalent "dfu-programmer".<br />
<br />
====Installing A Bootloader====<br />
If you wish to change to a different bootloader, you will need a [http://www.ladyada.net/make/usbtinyisp/ USBtinyISP] or equivalent ICSP or JTAG programmer. Note that USBTiny only officially supports MCU's with less <= 64K flash (the AT90USB1286 is a 128K chip!). Writing will work with a USBTiny, but read verification will always fail.<br />
<br />
# Obtain a compiled bootloader (CDC, HID, or DFU). See [http://blog.lincomatic.com/?p=548 Lincomatic's Bootloaders for AT90USB1286 article] for pre-compiled copies of each bootloader.<br />
# Remove the BOOT jumper from the Printrboard. Press the Reset button<br />
# Connect the 6 pin programming cable to the Printrboard's ICSP header. Pin 1 (red wire) is closest to the SD card slot.<br />
# Connect your programmer's USB cable.<br />
# Run the following avrdude commands, where BootloaderNAME_HERE.hex is the name of the Bootloader file you wish to install<br />
avrdude -c usbtiny -p at90usb1286 -U lfuse:w:0xDE:m -U hfuse:w:0x9B:m -U efuse:w:0xF0:m<br />
avrdude -c usbtiny -p at90usb1286 -U flash:w:BootloaderNAME_HERE.hex:i<br />
# Replace jumper on the Printrboard. Press Reset again.<br />
<br />
WARNING: Triple check the fuse values! Setting incorrect values will brick the microcontroller! Fuse values above are for the CDC and HID bootloaders. Fuses for the factory DFU bootloader should be set as<br />
avrdude -c usbtiny -p at90usb1286 -U lfuse:w:0x5E:m -U hfuse:w:0x99:m -U efuse:w:0xF3:m<br />
<br />
===Loading Firmware (Windows) ===<br />
To load new firmware to your Printrboard, first determine which bootloader your board uses. CDC or DFU are most likely.<br />
[[Image:Printrboard_Bootloader_Flashing.JPG|thumb|300px|alt=Printrboard with BOOT jumper removed|Printrboard RevB, BOOT jumper removed]]<br />
<br />
Unlike older AVR microcontrollers, the AT90USB has a special HWB_ALU pin (Hardware Button) which must be tied to ground during a reset cycle in order to place the microcontroller into bootloader mode. This is accomplished by removing a jumper on the Printrboard called "BOOT". Firmware can only be loaded while the chip has booted into its bootloader. Note that on RevD the polarity was changed for the BOOT jumper.<br />
<br />
To get into bootloader mode and upload new firmware:<br />
# Remove the BOOT jumper (for rev. d/e replace it)<br />
# Press and release the Reset button. The AT90USB's bootloader will appear as a new USB device the first time you boot into the bootloader. Allow Windows to install the USB driver and note the new COM port number.<br />
# Replace the BOOT jumper onto the board (for rev. d/e remove it) [[Image:Printrboard_Running.JPG|thumb|300px|alt=Printrboard Running, BOOT jumper in place|Printrboard RevB Running, BOOT jumper in place]]<br />
# Proceed to upload new firmware using the method relevant to your installed bootloader.<br />
## CDC BOOTLOADER (Arduino Bootloader)<br />
### In Arduino 022, open firmware<br />
### Choose [BootloaderCDC]Teensylu/Printrboard from the Arduino Tools-->Board menu, and select the COM port associated with your Printrboard's bootloader. See [http://blog.lincomatic.com/?p=502 Lincomatic's How to Program an AT90USB1286/Teensylu/Printrboard with Arduino article] for help configuring Arduino.<br />
### Click File --> Upload to Board.<br />
### Arduino will compile and upload firmware. You should see an error a few seconds after the firmware compiles. This is because the AT90USB has successfully exited the bootloader.<br />
### Press Reset. You may need to disconnect and reconnect the USB and power cables.<br />
## HID BOOTLOADER<br />
### Open a command prompt in the directory of the HID application.<br />
### Compile firmware within Arduino. You will need to copy and paste the compiled .HEX file into the HID application directory. The HEX file is saved in the temp folder, C:\users\{currentuser}\appdata\temp\build1234567890\Firmware_Name_Here.cpp.hex<br />
### Run the hid_bootloader_cli application, specifying your firmware and an mmcu of at90usb1286.<br />
### Disconnect and reconnect the USB and power cables.<br />
## DFU BOOTLOADER<br />
### Open Atmel's FLIP software.<br />
### Select the target device: AT90USB1286. Select Communication medium as USB. Click Open.<br />
### Compile firmware within Arduino. You will need to copy and paste the compiled .HEX file into the HID application directory. The HEX file is saved in the temp folder, C:\users\{currentuser}\appdata\temp\build1234567890\Firmware_Name_Here.cpp.hex<br />
### Open compiled HEX file within the FLIP software.<br />
### Make sure the Erase, Blank Check, Program, and Verify checkboxes are checked.<br />
### Click the Run button<br />
### When finished, disconnect and reconnect the USB and power cables.<br />
<br />
===Loading Firmware (Linux) ===<br />
<br />
DFU BOOTLOADER <br />
<br />
# install dfu-programmer (on ubuntu sudo apt-get install dfu-programmer)<br />
# compile your firmware as usual with the arduino IDE. (only compile not upload)<br />
# arduino will create a hex file within the tmp directory.<br />
# power and connect printrboard<br />
# set printrboard into boot mode (remove boot jumper, reps after rev.D add boot jumper)<br />
# press the reset button<br />
# lsusb (should say 'Atmel Corp. at90usb AVR DFU bootloader') if lsusb says 'VOTI' you're not in bootloader mode<br />
# sudo dfu-programmer at90usb1286 erase<br />
# sudo dfu-programmer at90usb1286 flash {path to the hex file in the /tmp} (e.g. sudo dfu-programmer at90usb1286 flash /tmp/build7750901060806024229.tmp/Repetier.cpp.hex)<br />
# exit boot mode by add/removing (depends on rev.) the boot jumper and press the reset button<br />
# lsusb should say 'VOTI'<br />
# connect with your host software and test if the changes have been applied<br />
<br />
== Setup == <br />
=== Stepper Motors ===<br />
Connect the X, Y, Z axis, and extruder motors to the matching headers at the top of the Printrboard (X-MOT, Y-MOT, Z-MOT, E-MOT). Headers are 4 wire Molex KK series, part# [http://www.molex.com/datasheets/pdf/en-us/0022013047_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.pdf 0022013047]) with 2759 series crimp terminals, part# [http://www.molex.com/datasheets/pdf/en-us/0008550101_CRIMP_TERMINALS.pdf 0008550101]. Motor pinout is:<br />
# A - Phase 1+<br />
# B - Phase 1-<br />
# C - Phase 2+<br />
# D - Phase 2-<br />
Note: The two coils in the stepper motor are usually called 1 and 2.<br />
The schematic below appears to show pins 1,2,3,4 on the board as 1B,1A,2A,2B.<br />
This seems to conflict with the "Motor pinout" description just above.<br />
<br />
=== Endstops ===<br />
Usually, one connects a mechanical microswitche to each of the 3-pin Molex headers X-STOP, Y-STOP, Z-STOP at the bottom of the board. The E-STOP header is reserved for future use, but might be treated as an emergency stop by some firmware. <br />
<br />
Connect switches as follows:<br />
# Switch NC (Normally Closed contact)<br />
# No connection (this is +5v out, and not used in this configuration)<br />
# Switch COMMON contact<br />
For typical optos, connect:<br />
# Signal Output (from the sensor, back to the Printrboard)<br />
# +5V (provides power to the sensor)<br />
# GND (Ground)<br />
<br />
=== Heaters ===<br />
Connect the heating element of your hotend (resistor or nichrome wire) to the 4-pin EXTRUDER header, positioned next to MOSFET Q1. Connect your heatbed to the HOTBED header, next to MOSFET Q2. Polarity here is unimportant. <br />
<br />
pinout is as follows:<br />
# Positive<br />
# Positive<br />
# Negative <br />
# Negative<br />
<br />
Note: The above "pinout" description seems incorrect. Pin 1 is the square pin. Pins 3 and 4 are both +12v power. Pins 1 and 2 are the control to the Hotend and are pulled to ground by the MOSFET, closing the circuit (12v Power through Hotend to Ground), turning the Hotend ON. The pairs of pins (1 and 2 together, and 3 and 4 together) are used to better conduct the high currents required of these "Hot" devices. The Hotbed operates the same way, with the same pinout, from the connector closer to the corner of the Printrboard.<br />
<br />
=== Thermistors ===<br />
Thermistor headers are 2-pin Molex headers at the right side of the board, located above the reset button.<br />
<br />
Connect the heatbed thermistor to the header directly above the reset button. The hotend thermistor connects above the heatbed header.<br />
<br />
=== Lower Power Fan ===<br />
A 2-pin Molex header labelled FAN is located on the right side of the board, above the thermistor headers. This optional header can be used to power a fan or other small motor. One pin is the +12v supply, and the other is the ON control, pulled to ground whenever the fan should be ON. Generally not used, but some firmware can control this "fan", I believe.<br />
<br />
=== Board Power ===<br />
Normally, all power is supplied through the 4-pin (2x2) ATX style header on the left edge, near the upper left corner of the Printrboard, labelled PWR. Connect this Power Input directly to any 12VDC power supply of sufficient amperage capability to run the intended devices. For example using a 120 watt hotbed would use 10 amps, all by itself, and more when it is first turned on. The two Ground terminals are closest to the edge of the board (left), and the two 12VDC+ terminals are away from the edge (at the right).<br />
<br />
The USBPWR "solder-jumper" is located about half way between the large square micro-processor chip and the two 4-pin connectors for the Hotbed and "extruder". Normally open, it is only used (connected) when it is necessary to use the USB input to supply the Printrboard's Logic with +5v power (when the 12v power input is not being used). Usually, the +5v for the board's logic is supplied by a regulator that is powered by the 12v input, and the open jumper keeps the board's 5v from feeding back into the USB connection.<br />
<br />
=== USB ===<br />
Connect a micro-USB cable to the USB jack at the bottom of the PCB. Note that a jumper should be installed on the "BOOT" pins for normal operation (see [[Printrboard#Bootloaders]]). In revision D, the behavior was inverted so that the jumper is only need when using the bootloader.<br />
<br />
== Schematic ==<br />
EAGLE files for the Printrboard are on Github: [[https://github.com/lwalkera/Printrboard]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:Printrboard_RevB_Schematic150.png|300px|alt=Printrboard RevB Schematic|Printrboard RevB Schematic]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:Printrboard_RevB_Board300.png|300px|alt=Printrboard RevB Board Layout|Printrboard RevB Board Layout]]<br />
<br />
===Revision History===<br />
*RevA [January 2012]: Internal pre-production design.<br />
*RevB [February 2012]: First release to manufacturing (RTM), built for first batch of [[Printrbot]]s. Each stepper driver IC utilizes an SMT solder jumper, MS-X, MS-Y, MS-Z, MS-E to set the microstepping ratio. These jumpers are manually soldered in production and will be eliminated in future batches.<br />
*RevC [April 2012]: Fixed manufacturability of SMT solder jumpers, MS-X, MS-Y, MS-Z, MS-E. Fixed "printrbot" logo on bottom silkscreen.<br />
*RevD [June 2012]: Made some more fixes for manufacturability and usability. Also changed the polarity of the BOOT jumper so that the jumper is required only when going into bootloader mode.<br />
*RevE [July 2012]: (Unofficial release) MOSFET's changed to 70A smt version.<br />
<br />
== Where to get it ==<br />
Warning: There is a modified version of the design in circulation that is made with a 2 layer PCB. This modified design is vastly inferior the proper 4-layer design.<br />
Geeetech is one supplier selling the 2-layer boards. There may be others.<br />
* It is sold fully assembled with the Printrbot kits, and from the [http://printrbot.com/ Printrbot store].<br />
* Also available at [http://www.ebay.com/itm/StepStick-New-version-Reprap-Prusa-Mendel-3D-Printer-control-board-Printerboard-/171033306280?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT geeetech ebay] and [http://www.reprap-usa.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=58 RepRap-USA] and [http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/printer-electronics.html MakerFarm] and [http://makemendel.com/electronics-parts/printrboard MakeMendel] and [http://www.reprap.me www.RepRap.me] and [http://stores.ebay.com/Blomker-Industries Blomker Industries] and [http://www.3dprinterczar.com/ 3D Printer Czar]<br />
* It's the standard electronic board on any [http://ordsolutions.com/ ORD Solutions] 3D printer.<br />
* You can also buy it from [http://www.3dacessorieshub.com 3D Acessories hub] at a best Price.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Useful_Software_Packages&diff=109297Useful Software Packages2013-10-31T03:43:58Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Added DesignSpark, formatting</p>
<hr />
<div>This is the place to put details of software packages that are useful for RepRap (like CAD programs), but that are not part of the RepRap project itself. Give a paragraph or so of explanation on each package and a link to its home page. Please also say what platforms it runs on, what licence it is distributed under, and whether it is free.<br />
<br />
==2D and 3D CAD software==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
===Open-source software===<br />
<br />
====Assimp====<br />
<br />
[http://assimp.sourceforge.net Open Asset Import Library] (short name: ''Assimp'') is a portable Open Source library to import various well-known 3D model formats in a uniform manner. The most recent version also knows how to export 3d files and is therefore suitable as general-purpose 3D model converter. See the [http://assimp.sourceforge.net/main_features.html feature list]. ([http://assimp.sourceforge.net/main_viewer.html The asset viewer] application is 'Windows only' I'm afraid.)<br />
<br />
====Art of Illusion====<br />
<br />
[[AoI]] is a graphics-oriented 3D modeler that's written entirely in Java. can be used to output STL files. or add [[Skeinforge]] to output GCode.<br />
<br />
Although it is a 3D graphics design tool, it is also good for engineering design. It has a very easy and quick-to-learn user interface. AoI runs on Linux, Windows or Mac, and is freely available under the GPL.<br />
<br />
AoI, for all its shortcomings, is probably the most used 3D modeling package in the RepRap community, primarily because of its very short learning curve. V2.7 experiences problems with booleans, and 2.6 is currently recommended - particularly with the CSG Evaluator plugin.<br />
<br />
There is also a page on [[Reprap-specific plugins for AoI]].<br />
<br />
[http://www.artofillusion.org/ Art of Illusion]<br />
<br />
====Blender====<br />
<br />
Blender was originally intended for the same applications as AoI. It has a very 'efficient' user interface, which includes a number of single-key keyboard commands. This is a very powerful and fast way of working, but can intimidate would-be users. (Don't be scared, blender is fun!) It may be arguably more powerful than AoI, and has a huge user community. Blender is scriptable in Python, runs on Linux, Windows or Mac, and is freely available under the GPL.<br />
<br />
[http://www.blender.org/ Blender]<br />
<br />
Also See:<br />
* [[Using Blender for making print-sheets]]<br />
* [http://homepage.ntlworld.com/r.burke2/precision_modelling1.html Blender Precision Modelling Tutorial]<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Blender Wikibooks: Blender]<br />
<br />
====BlenderCAD====<br />
BlenderCAD is a pre-alpha attempt to build CAD functionality into Blender.<br />
*[https://projects.blender.org/projects/blendercad/ Home Page ]<br />
*[https://projects.blender.org/forum/forum.php?thread_id=199203&forum_id=174 General Forum ]<br />
*[http://sourceforge.net/projects/blendercad/ Sourceforge page]<br />
*[http://lists.blender.org/mailman/listinfo/blendercad-dev Mailing List]<br />
*IRC: If you are interested the online meeting is on irc.freenode.net, channel #cad, and port 6667. The third Saturday of every month. 12:00 - 13:00, (GMT-7)<br />
<br />
====BRL-CAD====<br />
<br />
BRL-CAD is a cross-platform open source solid modeling system that includes interactive geometry editing, high-performance ray-tracing for rendering and geometric analysis, image and signal-processing tools, a system performance analysis benchmark suite, libraries for robust geometric representation, with more than 20 years of active development. BRL-CAD runs on BSD, Irix, Linux, Mac OS X, Solaris, and Windows. BRL-CAD became an open source project in 2004, with portions licensed under the LGPL and BSD licenses.<br />
<br />
[http://brlcad.org/ BRL-CAD]<br />
<br />
====FreeCAD====<br />
<br />
[[wikipedia:FreeCAD|FreeCAD]] is intended to be a full 3D mechanical engineering CAD package. It is still under development, but already usable. [[FreeCAD]] is based on [[wikipedia:OpenCasCade|OpenCasCade]], [[wikipedia:QT|QT]] and [[wikipedia:Python|Python]], runs on Linux, MacOSX and Windows, and is freely available under the [[wikipedia:GPL|GPL]] and [[wikipedia:LGPL|LGPL]]. It is aimed directly at mechanical engineering and product design but also fits in a wider range of uses around engineering, such as architecture or other engineering specialties and is oriented more toward technical drawings than freehand sketching--for example, you move objects by editing their XYZ coordinates. <br />
<br />
However, it has a much friendlier learning curve than say, [[OpenSCAD]] for those who are unfamiliar with programming. It can also open some OpenSCAD models (OpenSCAD needs to be installed). Being Free as Freedom, it is more suitable to use than proprietary software as [[Sketchup]].<br />
There is a dedicated wiki page where the community shares various -> [[FreeCAD|FreeCAD resources]] on tutorials, tips, cheats, any workarounds and so forth.<br />
<br />
[http://www.freecadweb.org/ FreeCAD Official Website]<br />
<br />
====HeeksCAD====<br />
<br />
HeeksCAD, like [[FreeCAD]], is based on [http://www.opencascade.org/ OpenCasCade], and has similar modeling functionality, with neutral IGES, STEP and STL file format exchange. It's much less dependent on parametric editing than FreeCAD and the GUI is more integrated, not modular. Its development has slowed down, and Windows installers have not been updated since 2011. The software needs to be compiled from source for Linux systems. Distributed under BSD license. <br />
<br />
* [https://github.com/Heeks/heekscad HeeksCAD Source code]<br />
* [https://code.google.com/p/heekscad/downloads/list HeeksCAD Downloads]<br />
<br />
====Inkscape====<br />
<br />
[http://www.inkscape.org/ Inkscape] is an Open Source vector graphics editor, with capabilities similar to Illustrator, CorelDraw, or Xara X. It uses the W3C standard Scalable Vector Graphics (SVG) file format. Inkscape is released under GPL Version 2.<br />
<br />
There is a plugin for Inkscape which allows generation of gcode from a path. You may need to add nodes and then straighten all line segments before gcoding the path (then perhaps edit output files) to them work, as currently (Mar 2012) Sprinter won't interpret curves correctly, and some of the GCodes seem to make it freeze.<br />
<br />
[http://www.cnc-club.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=35&start=0 Gcodetools]<br />
<br />
====K3D====<br />
<br />
Another simple 3D modeler with no STL support.<br />
<br />
[http://www.k-3d.org K3D]<br />
<br />
====LibreCAD====<br />
<br />
LibreCAD is an application for computer aided drafting in two dimensions (2D). It is a fork of QCAD. you can create technical drawings such as plans for buildings, interiors, mechanical parts or schemas and diagrams. LibreCAD works on Windows, Mac OS X and many Linux and Unix Systems. The source code is released under the GPL.<br />
<br />
[http://librecad.org/cms/home.html LibreCAD]<br />
<br />
====[[OpenSCAD]]====<br />
<br />
[[OpenSCAD]] is a scripted modeller which produces CSG (Constructive Solid Geometry) and 2D outlines.<br />
It is free software and available for Linux/UNIX, MS Windows and Apples Mac OS X.<br />
It supports DFX, STL and OFF file formats and is designed for the engineer not the artist.<br />
Can be used from the command line to generate bespoke STL objects. e.g. > openscad -m make -s gears_helical.stl -D teethNum=15 gears_helical.scad<br />
* [http://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD main page and download]<br />
* [http://rocklinux.net/mailman/listinfo/openscad Mailing list and archives]<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual Manual]<br />
* [http://blog.thingiverse.com/2009/11/06/in-which-openscad-wins-me-over/ Endorsement]<br />
<br />
====pyGear====<br />
<br />
Built on top of pythonOCC, OpenCascade, numpy and scipy, [http://sourceforge.net/projects/pygear/ pyGear] serves as an CAE/CAD-preprocessor generator of [[wikipedia:Involute_gear|involute gears]].<br />
<br />
====PythonOCC====<br />
<br />
A python wrapper for the [http://www.opencascade.org/ OpenCascade] and Salome ([http://sf.net/projects/salomegeometry salome-geometry] and [http://sf.net/projects/salomesmesh salome-mesh]) libraries. <br />
Supports constructive solid geometry, data exchange, meshing, GUI development (wxPython, PyQt, python-xlib), parametric modeling.<br />
FEM solver integration with ([http://www.code-aster.org/V2/spip.php?rubrique2 Code Aster]) is underway.<br />
(Not a GUI based CAD program, but aims to be a scripting framework for rapid development of custom CAE solutions.)<br />
<br />
[http://www.pythonocc.org/ PythonOCC]<br />
<br />
====QCAD====<br />
<br />
QCAD is an application for computer aided drafting in two dimensions (2D). With QCAD you can create technical drawings such as plans for buildings, interiors, mechanical parts or schemas and diagrams. QCAD works on Windows, Mac OS X and many Linux and Unix Systems. The source code of the free QCAD community edition is released under the GPL.<br />
<br />
[http://www.ribbonsoft.com/qcad.html QCAD]<br />
<br />
==== Shapesmith ====<br />
<br />
"Parametric, Open-Source 3D Modeling in your browser".<br />
Benjamin Nortier has released Shapesmith under the Apache License on Github.<br />
(Erlang, JavaScript).<br />
<br />
http://shapesmith.net/<br />
<br />
==== SolveSpace ====<br />
SolveSpace is a parametric 3d CAD program.<br />
<br />
Release 2.0 is now available under the GPL and offers:<br />
* '''modeling 3d parts''' — draw with extrudes, revolves, and Boolean (union / difference) operations <br />
* '''modeling 2d parts''' — draw the part as a single section, and export DXF, PDF, SVG; use 3d assembly to verify fit <br />
* '''preparing CAM data''' — export 2d vector art for a waterjet machine or laser cutter; or generate STEP or '''STL''', for import into third-party CAM software <br />
* '''mechanism design''' — use the constraint solver to simulate planar or spatial linkages, with pin, ball, or slide joints <br />
* '''plane and solid geometry''' — replace hand-solved trigonometry and spreadsheets with a live dimensioned drawing <br />
<br />
http://solvespace.com<br />
<br />
<br />
====Wings3D====<br />
<br />
Wings3D is a free and open source 3D modeller ([[Wikipedia: subdivision modeller]]). Designs can be exported as STL and STL files can be imported. Wings3d can be extended using available plugins, and you can write your own plugins in Erlang.<br />
(The [[#KiCad]] 3D view uses Wings3D)<br />
<br />
* official site: http://www.wings3d.com/<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Wings_3D Wikibooks: Wings 3D] and [[Wikipedia: Wings 3D]]<br />
* [http://wings.sourceforge.net Sourceforge: Wings3D] and [https://github.com/dgud/wings GitHub: Wings3D]<br />
<br />
===Unknown licence===<br />
<br />
====Archimedes====<br />
<br />
Brasilian 3D package. Apparently became orphanware in 2007.<br />
<br />
[http://archimedescad.github.io/Archimedes/ Archimedes]<br />
<br />
==== Replath ====<br />
<br />
Many of the programs on this page generate files in SVG or DXF or Gerber format.<br />
[[Builders/Replath]] imports files in those formats<br />
and produces standard G-code files and standard SVG files (and a few other formats).<br />
<br />
===Closed source===<br />
====Autodesk 123D Beta====<br />
Clean, Simple<br />
<br />
http://www.123dapp.com/<br />
<br />
<br />
====Autodesk Inventor (Student Version)====<br />
Students can download the professional version of Autodesk Inventor 2010, 2011 or 2012 after registration on the Autodesk website (link below). It is a powerful tool for creating 3D CAD models. It can import and export the industrial standard CAD files like STEP or IGES and export STL files.<br />
<br />
[http://students.autodesk.com/ Autodesk]<br />
<br />
<br />
====Autodesk Inventor Fusion====<br />
3D (non-parametric) modeling application is simple to learn and use. You can download a free widows version at [http://labs.autodesk.com/utilities/fusion/ Autodesk Labs] and is good until June 1, 2011. A Mac native preview has been unveiled and is planned to be available early 2012. More information on [http://www.facebook.com/InventorFusion Facebook].<br />
This software includes solid and surface modeling along with translators and exporters for many profesional cad tools.<br />
<br />
<br />
====AutoQ3D====<br />
AutoQ3D Animation is an affordable and easy 3D CAD with animation capabilities. It is suitable for anyone interested in learning 3D CAD and Animation before using more sophisticated packages. It runs on Windows, Mac, Linux, iOS and Android.<br />
<br />
[http://autoq3d.com/ AutoQ3D]<br />
<br />
<br />
====CATIA====<br />
CATIA is a massively insanely expensive software package that is used by aerospace and automobile manufacturers. Licenses can be in the tens of thousands of dollars depending on what features you buy. It is made by Dessault Systèmes, the same company that makes SolidWorks and the free 2D Draft Sight CAD software.<br />
<br />
[http://www.3ds.com/products/catia/ CATIA]<br />
<br />
<br />
====Cheetah3D====<br />
Cheetah3D is a powerful 3D modeling, rendering and animation software for Mac OS X. It offers native support for importing and exporting STL files (ASCII and Binary).<br />
<br />
[http://www.cheetah3d.com Cheetah3D]<br />
<br />
<br />
====CoCreate====<br />
CoCreate Modeling Personal Edition is free for non-professional use. It is limited to 60 parts in one design and can only save designs in its own proprietary format, but it can export STL and VRML and import STEP and IGES. It is Windows only and needs an internet connection every three days. Apparently, very easy to use. {content abstracted from [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/06/from-illusion-to-creation.html Hydraraptor]}<br />
<br />
[http://www.ptc.com/products/cocreate/ CoCreate]<br />
<br />
<br />
====DesignSpark Mechanical====<br />
DesignSpark Mechanical is a free 3D design software. A derivative of the Spaceclaim software (unconfirmed)<br />
<br />
[http://www.designspark.com/eng/page/mechanical http://www.designspark.com/eng/page/mechanical]<br />
<br />
<br />
====iTracer====<br />
iTracer is a 3D modeling and rendering application for the iPhone. There are instructions for creating models for 3D printing using it [http://www.instructables.com/id/Creating-a-Model-for-3D-Printing-on-an-iPhoneiPod/ on Instructables here]. It costs $2.<br />
<br />
[http://www.mode2.com.br/Apps/Apps.html iTracer]<br />
<br />
<br />
====Moldex3D eDesign====<br />
Moldex3D is the world leading CAE product for the plastic injection molding industry. With the best-in-class analysis technology, Moldex3D can help you carry out in-depth simulation of the widest range of injection molding processes and to optimize product designs and manufacturability. In addition, its high compatibility and adaptability have provided users with instant connection to mainstream CAD systems, generating a flexible simulation-driven design platform.<br />
<br />
[https://www.polymerportal.org/software Moldex3D eDesign]<br />
<br />
<br />
====Moment of Inspiration (MoI 3D)====<br />
3D modeling for designers and artists. NURBS-based CAD modeling tool with excelllent quality mesh export. Costs $295 for the full license, free to try for a month.<br />
[http://moi3d.com MoI 3D]<br />
<br />
<br />
====NX Unigraphix (a.k.a U-G)====<br />
This, along with Catia is the other major player in proprietary CAD software. It is crazy expensive just like Catia and used by major manufacturers.<br />
<br />
[http://www.plm.automation.siemens.com/en_us/products/nx/ Unigraphics NX]<br />
<br />
<br />
====Rhino====<br />
Rhino is an easy 3D CAD with strong modeling capabilities. It is the most used software in entire micro-verticals such as architecture and jewelry.<br />
<br />
[http://www.rhino3d.com Rhino 3D]<br />
<br />
<br />
====Sketchup====<br />
Sketchup is primarily intended for designing architectural models, but it can be used for general 3D design as well.<br />
<br />
[http://www.sketchup.com/ SketchUp]<br />
<br />
SketchUp Make 2013 now includes an Extension Warehouse, and you can install the import / export STL extension from there. The link is [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl here, or search for it in SketchUp Make]<br />
<br />
(deprecated) For details of plugins that will output STL files from Sketchup:<br />
see here<br />
* [http://www.cerebralmeltdown.com/cncstuff/stl/index.htm (cerebralmeltdown.com)]<br />
and here<br />
* [http://capolight.wordpress.com/2010/06/21/importing-exporting-and-making-manifold-objects-in-sketchup/ (capolight.wordpress.com)]<br />
and here a FREE one<br />
* [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl (guitar-list.com) STL File Export Plugin]<br />
<br />
Also See:<br />
* [[Sketchup Modeling for 3d Printing]]<br />
* Youtube videos: [http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=SketchUp SketchUp]<br />
<br />
<br />
====SolidWorks====<br />
SolidWorks is one of the most popular closed-source CAD programs. The parts on the Prusa Mendel were designed using this software. It is owned by Dessault Systems which also makes Catia. An educational version of Solidworks is available for about 200 bucks I believe.<br />
<br />
http://www.solidworks.com<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Tinkercad ====<br />
[http://tinkercad.com Tinkercad] - a simple but effective online modelling tool. Useful for quickly creating prototypes.<br />
Specifically designed for 3D printers like RepRap.<br />
<br />
==Software for dealing with STL files ==<br />
<br />
===Open-source software===<br />
<br />
====MeshLab====<br />
<br />
An open source, portable, and extensible system for the processing and editing of unstructured 3D triangular meshes. It also has an as yet unexploited object slicing routine which is extremely quick.<br />
<br />
[http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ MeshLab]<br />
<br />
====Skeinforge====<br />
<br />
Converts STL files to Gcodes. Is included with [[ReplicatorG]]. Horribly ugly user interface. It looks like someone used a shotgun loaded with buttons. Works slow, but has many options and is reliable<br />
<br />
====Slic3r====<br />
<br />
Converts STL files to Gcodes. 100 times faster than skeinforge, but still great gcode output. relatively new. see: [[Slic3r]] and http://slic3r.org/<br />
<br />
====Repsnapper====<br />
[[Repsnapper]] is a Slicer completely written in C++. With 3D preview.<br />
<br />
<br />
====Cura====<br />
<br />
[[Cura]], Slicer and GCode sender in one. Tries to be a single solution software where different parts can be used without depending on the other.<br />
<br />
====ConvertSTL====<br />
<br />
A ruby script that converts STL files between ASCII and binary encoding. https://github.com/cmpolis/convertSTL<br />
<br />
====IVCON====<br />
<br />
IVCON is a command-line C++ program for 3D graphics file conversion which reads and writes a variety of 3D graphics file formats, including STL, converting from one to the other.<br />
http://people.sc.fsu.edu/~jburkardt/cpp_src/ivcon/ivcon.html<br />
<br />
==== Creation Workshop ====<br />
<br />
[[Creation Workshop]] is slicer and DLP control software for (wet) liquid stereolithography and (dry) powder 3D printing.<br />
<br />
=== Closed-source ===<br />
<br />
====netfabb Studio====<br />
<br />
A tool for repairing and manipulations of STL files. <br />
<br />
netfabb Studio is free, but not open source. It now available for Windows, Mac and Linux. The free version of which can be found here: [http://www.netfabb.com/basic.php].<br />
<br />
netfabb Studio is software tailored for additive fabrication, rapid prototyping and 3D printing. It includes the ability of viewing, editing, repairing and analyzing stl-files or slice-based files in various formats.<br />
<br />
[http://www.netfabb.com/ netfabb Studio]<br />
<br />
====Kisslicer====<br />
<br />
STL to G-code for additive extrusion printing.<br />
<br />
Window, Mac, Linux, FreeBSD<br />
<br />
http://kisslicer.com/<br />
<br />
http://kisslicer.com/forum/index.php<br />
<br />
====MeshMixer====<br />
<br />
Autodesk MeshMixer is a program that imports, manipulates, and converts 3D meshes. One of its more useful features is the "Analysis" tool, which shows areas of a mesh that could cause problems for 3D printing. It also provides a simple repair tool that fixes some of these problems. Be careful with the "Autorepair All" feature however, since it sometimes removes large portions of a part. It also has integration with the Autodesk 3D print utility to allow printing directly from the program (assuming a compatible printer).<br />
<br />
MeshMixer is free to download and use, and it runs on Windows and OSX.<br />
<br />
http://www.autodeskresearch.com/projects/meshmixer<br />
<br />
http://www.meshmixer.com/<br />
<br />
==Software for sending G-code to the printer ==<br />
<br />
See [[CAM Toolchains#RepRap Drivers]].<br />
<br />
==CAD software for electronics==<br />
<br />
===Open-source software===<br />
<br />
====gEDA/gaf====<br />
<br />
A full GPL'd suite and toolkit of Electronic Design Automation tools. These tools are used for electrical circuit design, <br />
schematic capture, simulation, prototyping, and production. <br />
<br />
Compiles / runs on Linux and Mac Os X. Binaries available for Debian, SUSE, and Mac.<br />
<br />
[http://www.gpleda.org/index.html gEDA] [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GEDA Wikipedia]<br><br />
See also: A [[Generation_7_Electronics#Typical_Work_Loop_with_gEDA|typical work loop with gEDA]].<br />
<br />
====KiCad====<br />
: ''main article: [[KiCad]]''<br />
<br />
[[KiCad]] is an open source (GPL) software for the creation of electronic schematic diagrams and printed circuit board artwork. Users are making complex boards with it, as boards of 4 layers or more, with ARM microcontrollers running at 450MHz.<br />
<br />
KiCad runs on Linux, Windows or Mac. It is available on Linux Ubuntu repositories ("app store") meaning that it can be installed with one mouse click.<br />
(The KiCad 3D view uses [[#Wings3D]]).<br />
<br />
* official site: http://www.kicad-pcb.org/<br />
<br />
====Gerbv====<br />
<br />
An open-source (ODV) program for displaying Gerber files. Useful for checking.<br />
<br />
[http://gerbv.gpleda.org Gerbv]<br />
<br />
====Stripboard Designer 1.0====<br />
<br />
Open source (BSD) app written in freeware Visual Basic 2008 Express for Wintel machines<br />
<br />
[http://3dreplicators.com/New%20Front%20Page/Documentation/Tools/Stripboard%20designer.htm Stripboard Designer 1.0]<br />
<br />
====Stripes====<br />
<br />
Open source (GPL) version of Stripboard Designer written by Julian Skidmore in Java<br />
<br />
[http://sites.google.com/site/libby8dev/stripes Stripes]<br />
<br />
====DIY Layout Creator====<br />
<br />
DIYLC is an easy to use, yet powerful open source (GPL) multiplatform (Java) software for creating stripboard and universal board designs.<br />
<br />
[http://code.google.com/p/diy-layout-creator DIYLC]<br />
<br />
===Closed-source===<br />
<br />
====Eagle====<br />
<br />
Proprietary circuit-diagram and PCB design system with a slightly reduced-capabilities freeware version. It includes an autorouter for PCB creation. This is the package that has been used to design the majority of the RepRap electronics. It is also used to design the open-source [http://arduino.cc/ Arduino microcontroller], derivatives of which are used in RepRap. It runs on Linux, Windows or Mac.<br />
<br />
[http://www.cadsoft.de Eagle]<br />
<br />
== Further reading ==<br />
<br />
You can help:<br />
go through the<br />
[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?12,13723 "AoI Alternatives"] thread<br />
and add at least a brief mention of packages mentioned there but not yet listed on this page:<br />
avoCADo, MLCad, CollabCAD, etc.<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[ZornStrap]] mentions more CAD and FEM and CFD software tools.<br />
* [http://opencircuits.com/stripboard "OpenCircuits: stripboard"] has more specific details on designing boards with stripboard.<br />
* [http://opencircuits.com/software_tool "OpenCircuits: software tool"] has a huge list of software tools for electronics: schematic capture tools, circuit simulation tools, custom PCB layout tools, autorouters, etc.<br />
* [[UsefulLinks]]<br />
* [http://blog.thingiverse.com/2009/11/06/in-which-openscad-wins-me-over/ Endorsement]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Model manufacturing software| ]]<br />
[[Category:Model manufacturing| ]]<br />
[[Category:Software| ]]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=G3D_driver&diff=99057G3D driver2013-07-20T13:51:35Z<p>MikeP-NZ: /* VREF Calculation Formula */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = A4988 G3D Stepper Drivers<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = G3d_1.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = New generation stepper motor driver<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = GADGETS3D<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
This is the new innovative stepper motor driver for your 3D printer or any task involved stepper motors! It is a new generation as replacement for Pololu/StepStick.<br />
<br />
Professional design ensure stable operation of this driver - it contain 2oz copper PCB for better heat dissipation and 0.1ohm sense resistors which let it working up to 2A (heatsink and additional air cooling is needed for operating over 1A).<br />
<br />
Using standard A4988 drivers you face the problem of vibration / shaking stepper motors and frame when stepper motors are moving (most noticeable on Z stage). These drivers solves this problem by using an additional 30k trimpot to correctly select the off-time settings. <br />
-------------<br />
Is it complicated to use? <br />
<br />
No, you only need to turn second trimpot (OSC) fully counterclokwise and that's all - you can enjoy smoother and quieter stepper motors operation and no more lost motor steps because of non-optimal off-time settings.<br />
-------------<br />
For what we need second trimpot ?<br />
<br />
This is just 30k trimpot which turned fully counterclokwise pulling ROSC pin into ground and turning it clockwise let you to choose reference.<br />
-------------<br />
Quotet from A4988 datasheet:<br />
<br />
"By pulling the ROSC pin to ground (second trimpot turned fully counter clockwise in our driver), mixed decay is set to <br />
be active 100% of the time, for both rising and falling currents, and <br />
prevents missed steps. If this is not an issue, it <br />
is recommended that automatically-selected mixed decay be used, <br />
because it will produce reduced ripple currents. Refer to the Fixed <br />
Off-Time section for details."<br />
<br />
You can check A4988 datasheet for more informations.<br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
4pcs or 5pcs G3D Drivers fully soldered and assembled and ready to use:<br />
<br />
4pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=71 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
5pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=72 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/> <br />
[http://myreprap.com/parts_accessories/electronics/stepper_drivers/ Robots3D (Russia)]<br/> <br />
[http://www.makershop.co.nz/electronics/G3D-Driver Makershop.co.nz (New Zealand)]<br/><br />
<br />
You can also build it by yourself design files you can find at bottom of page.<br />
<br />
=VREF Calculation Formula=<br />
<br />
VREF = I_TripMax * 8 * 0.1<br/><br />
I_TripMax = Peak current through one winding of your motor (A)(other winding will be off)<br/><br />
Note that the current rating shown on your stepper motor is usually for current in both windings.<br/><br />
The peak current through both windings simultaneously will be 70.71% of I_TripMax.<br/><br />
To avoid excessive heating of the stepper motor, particularly if it is bolted to a PLA component, you should set I_tripMax to no more than your steppers Rated current.<br/><br />
This will result in approximately half the temperature rise and 70% of the rated torque.<br />
<br />
Example: 0.4A * 8 * 0.1 = 0.32V<br />
<br />
VREF can be measured with a voltmeter between the metal top of the trimpot and GND.<br />
<br />
=Pictures=<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_11.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_22.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_33.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=Design Files=<br />
<br />
<b>Note:</B> The schematic linked below shows Sense resistors as 0.2 ohm.<br><br />
The I trip calculation above and the products being shipped use 0.1 ohm sense resistors.<br><br />
This is a change from the common Pololu design, which uses 0.05 ohm for sense resistors.<br><br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_Driver_schematic.jpg|Schematic]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_driver_rev0.rar|Gerber files]]<br />
<br />
=Licences=<br />
<br />
[[File:88x31.png]]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=G3D_driver&diff=99054G3D driver2013-07-20T13:29:46Z<p>MikeP-NZ: /* Where to get it? */ Added makershop.co.nz</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = A4988 G3D Stepper Drivers<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = G3d_1.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = New generation stepper motor driver<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = GADGETS3D<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
This is the new innovative stepper motor driver for your 3D printer or any task involved stepper motors! It is a new generation as replacement for Pololu/StepStick.<br />
<br />
Professional design ensure stable operation of this driver - it contain 2oz copper PCB for better heat dissipation and 0.1ohm sense resistors which let it working up to 2A (heatsink and additional air cooling is needed for operating over 1A).<br />
<br />
Using standard A4988 drivers you face the problem of vibration / shaking stepper motors and frame when stepper motors are moving (most noticeable on Z stage). These drivers solves this problem by using an additional 30k trimpot to correctly select the off-time settings. <br />
-------------<br />
Is it complicated to use? <br />
<br />
No, you only need to turn second trimpot (OSC) fully counterclokwise and that's all - you can enjoy smoother and quieter stepper motors operation and no more lost motor steps because of non-optimal off-time settings.<br />
-------------<br />
For what we need second trimpot ?<br />
<br />
This is just 30k trimpot which turned fully counterclokwise pulling ROSC pin into ground and turning it clockwise let you to choose reference.<br />
-------------<br />
Quotet from A4988 datasheet:<br />
<br />
"By pulling the ROSC pin to ground (second trimpot turned fully counter clockwise in our driver), mixed decay is set to <br />
be active 100% of the time, for both rising and falling currents, and <br />
prevents missed steps. If this is not an issue, it <br />
is recommended that automatically-selected mixed decay be used, <br />
because it will produce reduced ripple currents. Refer to the Fixed <br />
Off-Time section for details."<br />
<br />
You can check A4988 datasheet for more informations.<br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
4pcs or 5pcs G3D Drivers fully soldered and assembled and ready to use:<br />
<br />
4pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=71 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
5pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=72 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/> <br />
[http://myreprap.com/parts_accessories/electronics/stepper_drivers/ Robots3D (Russia)]<br/> <br />
[http://www.makershop.co.nz/electronics/G3D-Driver Makershop.co.nz (New Zealand)]<br/><br />
<br />
You can also build it by yourself design files you can find at bottom of page.<br />
<br />
=VREF Calculation Formula=<br />
<br />
REF = I_TripMax * 8 * 0.1<br />
I_TripMax - Trip current of your motor (A)<br />
<br />
Example: 0.4A * 8 * 0.1 = 0.32V<br />
<br />
=Pictures=<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_11.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_22.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_33.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=Design Files=<br />
<br />
<b>Note:</B> The schematic linked below shows Sense resistors as 0.2 ohm.<br><br />
The I trip calculation above and the products being shipped use 0.1 ohm sense resistors.<br><br />
This is a change from the common Pololu design, which uses 0.05 ohm for sense resistors.<br><br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_Driver_schematic.jpg|Schematic]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_driver_rev0.rar|Gerber files]]<br />
<br />
=Licences=<br />
<br />
[[File:88x31.png]]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=G3D_driver&diff=99053G3D driver2013-07-20T13:19:23Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Add warning about Sense resistor error in schamtic</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = A4988 G3D Stepper Drivers<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = G3d_1.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = New generation stepper motor driver<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = GADGETS3D<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
This is the new innovative stepper motor driver for your 3D printer or any task involved stepper motors! It is a new generation as replacement for Pololu/StepStick.<br />
<br />
Professional design ensure stable operation of this driver - it contain 2oz copper PCB for better heat dissipation and 0.1ohm sense resistors which let it working up to 2A (heatsink and additional air cooling is needed for operating over 1A).<br />
<br />
Using standard A4988 drivers you face the problem of vibration / shaking stepper motors and frame when stepper motors are moving (most noticeable on Z stage). These drivers solves this problem by using an additional 30k trimpot to correctly select the off-time settings. <br />
-------------<br />
Is it complicated to use? <br />
<br />
No, you only need to turn second trimpot (OSC) fully counterclokwise and that's all - you can enjoy smoother and quieter stepper motors operation and no more lost motor steps because of non-optimal off-time settings.<br />
-------------<br />
For what we need second trimpot ?<br />
<br />
This is just 30k trimpot which turned fully counterclokwise pulling ROSC pin into ground and turning it clockwise let you to choose reference.<br />
-------------<br />
Quotet from A4988 datasheet:<br />
<br />
"By pulling the ROSC pin to ground (second trimpot turned fully counter clockwise in our driver), mixed decay is set to <br />
be active 100% of the time, for both rising and falling currents, and <br />
prevents missed steps. If this is not an issue, it <br />
is recommended that automatically-selected mixed decay be used, <br />
because it will produce reduced ripple currents. Refer to the Fixed <br />
Off-Time section for details."<br />
<br />
You can check A4988 datasheet for more informations.<br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
4pcs or 5pcs G3D Drivers fully soldered and assembled and ready to use:<br />
<br />
4pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=71 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
5pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=72 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/> <br />
[http://myreprap.com/parts_accessories/electronics/stepper_drivers/ Robots3D (Russia)]<br/> <br />
<br />
You can also build it by yourself design files you can find at bottom of page.<br />
<br />
=VREF Calculation Formula=<br />
<br />
REF = I_TripMax * 8 * 0.1<br />
I_TripMax - Trip current of your motor (A)<br />
<br />
Example: 0.4A * 8 * 0.1 = 0.32V<br />
<br />
=Pictures=<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_11.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_22.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_33.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=Design Files=<br />
<br />
<b>Note:</B> The schematic linked below shows Sense resistors as 0.2 ohm.<br><br />
The I trip calculation above and the products being shipped use 0.1 ohm sense resistors.<br><br />
This is a change from the common Pololu design, which uses 0.05 ohm for sense resistors.<br><br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_Driver_schematic.jpg|Schematic]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_driver_rev0.rar|Gerber files]]<br />
<br />
=Licences=<br />
<br />
[[File:88x31.png]]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Delta-Pi&diff=87043Delta-Pi2013-03-27T11:06:45Z<p>MikeP-NZ: /* Design Changes */ changed image size to force regen of thumbnail.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Delta-Pi<br />
|status = Concept<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Overall_Assy1.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Delta-Pi is a Rostock style Delta printer with a new carriage design.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = Rostock<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Delta|Delta]][[Category:Delta]]<br />
|cadModel = [https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi GitHub]<br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This is essentially a new design in that it does not reuse any parts from an existing design. It does however take a lot of its heritage and style from Johan's Rostock design. A huge thanks to all of those whose hard work, knowledge and innovation have brought things this far. Now I hope that I can add my own little increment to the development of the Reprap concept.<br />
Mike Paauwe<br />
<br />
==History==<br />
The first iteration of this machine featured the vertical towers separated by 90° instead of the normal 120°. The reason for this was that it gave a better shaped build area. The build area was more square than hexagonal or triangular. After building the prototype it became obvious that the concept was seriously flawed. In theory the three towers kept the centre platform fully constrained but in practice the platform was relying on the torsional stiffness of the arms whenever one set of arms was near horizontal. The result wasn't really usable over a large portion of the intended build envelope. So the 90° tower angles were dropped and the design reverted to being a more standard Rostock Delta style 3D printer.<br />
<br />
==Design Changes==<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi photo of prototype.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Photo of the prototype after completing its first ever print]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Extruder Platform.jpg|right|401px|thumb|Hot end platform with a variant of the Kiss hot end and fan cooling]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage View.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Another view of the carriage design.]]<br />
<br />
===Crossed-Roller Carriage Design===<br />
The immediately obvious change is that the design does not use 8mm rod and LM8UU bearings. The Delta-Pi uses a live-loaded crossed-roller carriage design running on the corners of a 3/4"/19mm or a 20mm square tube. The tube is a sanded finish stainless steel that should be easily available anywhere in the world. The carriage design contains 8 pieces of 623ZZ bearing and another 2 pieces are used for the idler pulley making 10 per tower and 30 total for the printer. The carriage design features a live hinge and spring beam that allows the bearing tension to be adjusted.<br />
The inside of the tubes is open so that it can be used to run wires between the top and bottom of the printer.<br />
<br />
===Arm Design===<br />
The arm design has been changed slightly from the Rostock design. The arms use a 6mm carbon fibre tube and the tube is glued inside a clevis. That's not too different but the yokes at each end of the arm assembly are intended to simplify assembly and reduce the number of fasteners required. It also give a larger range of motion than the commonly used ball joints.<br />
<br />
===Belt connection===<br />
The belt can be either S2M or GT2 belt and is 6mm wide. The belt is connected to the carriage by looping a short length back on itself. The belt teeth interlock and a small piece of rod (3mm filament) stops the loop from pulling out.<br />
The belt is tensioned by moving the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
==Design Files==<br />
The design has been created using SolidWorks and the source files have been published on GitHub.<BR /><br />
Assembly documentation, BOMs and drawings are hosted on GitHub.<BR /><br />
[https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi]<BR /><br />
The STL files for printed parts are published on Thingiverse:<BR /><br />
[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53708 www.thingiverse.com/thing:53708]<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
The prototype was originally run using the Marlin firmware and later switched to the Repetier firmware.<br />
<br />
==Current Project Status==<br />
As of 27 March. The prototype is assembled and printing. The BOM and source files were published to Github today.<BR /><br />
Some new photos posted to Flickr today.<br />
<br />
==Known Issues==<br />
*The bowden extruder setup being used is slow to retract which means prints are a little stringy.<br />
*Calibration is "tricky" this is an issue with all Delta designs. People are working on simplifying the process.<br />
*The final design will probably add 2 or 3 side panels. This will stiffen the frame and reduce the risk of breaking the top and bottom bar clamps if someone is rough with it.<br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
Photos of the prototype here:[http://www.flickr.com/photos/86621828@N05/sets/72157632623446146/ on flickr.com]<BR /><br />
Video of the prototype here: [https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGyolvuY29uOzHDMwNHT6_VwP4YApPiwr on YouTube]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Delta-Pi&diff=87042Delta-Pi2013-03-27T11:01:57Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Updated with new photos and status.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Delta-Pi<br />
|status = Concept<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Overall_Assy1.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Delta-Pi is a Rostock style Delta printer with a new carriage design.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = Rostock<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Delta|Delta]][[Category:Delta]]<br />
|cadModel = [https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi GitHub]<br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This is essentially a new design in that it does not reuse any parts from an existing design. It does however take a lot of its heritage and style from Johan's Rostock design. A huge thanks to all of those whose hard work, knowledge and innovation have brought things this far. Now I hope that I can add my own little increment to the development of the Reprap concept.<br />
Mike Paauwe<br />
<br />
==History==<br />
The first iteration of this machine featured the vertical towers separated by 90° instead of the normal 120°. The reason for this was that it gave a better shaped build area. The build area was more square than hexagonal or triangular. After building the prototype it became obvious that the concept was seriously flawed. In theory the three towers kept the centre platform fully constrained but in practice the platform was relying on the torsional stiffness of the arms whenever one set of arms was near horizontal. The result wasn't really usable over a large portion of the intended build envelope. So the 90° tower angles were dropped and the design reverted to being a more standard Rostock Delta style 3D printer.<br />
<br />
==Design Changes==<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi photo of prototype.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Photo of the prototype after completing its first ever print]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Extruder Platform.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Hot end platform with a variant of the Kiss hot end and fan cooling]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage View.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Another view of the carriage design.]]<br />
<br />
===Crossed-Roller Carriage Design===<br />
The immediately obvious change is that the design does not use 8mm rod and LM8UU bearings. The Delta-Pi uses a live-loaded crossed-roller carriage design running on the corners of a 3/4"/19mm or a 20mm square tube. The tube is a sanded finish stainless steel that should be easily available anywhere in the world. The carriage design contains 8 pieces of 623ZZ bearing and another 2 pieces are used for the idler pulley making 10 per tower and 30 total for the printer. The carriage design features a live hinge and spring beam that allows the bearing tension to be adjusted.<br />
The inside of the tubes is open so that it can be used to run wires between the top and bottom of the printer.<br />
<br />
===Arm Design===<br />
The arm design has been changed slightly from the Rostock design. The arms use a 6mm carbon fibre tube and the tube is glued inside a clevis. That's not too different but the yokes at each end of the arm assembly are intended to simplify assembly and reduce the number of fasteners required. It also give a larger range of motion than the commonly used ball joints.<br />
<br />
===Belt connection===<br />
The belt can be either S2M or GT2 belt and is 6mm wide. The belt is connected to the carriage by looping a short length back on itself. The belt teeth interlock and a small piece of rod (3mm filament) stops the loop from pulling out.<br />
The belt is tensioned by moving the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
==Design Files==<br />
The design has been created using SolidWorks and the source files have been published on GitHub.<BR /><br />
Assembly documentation, BOMs and drawings are hosted on GitHub.<BR /><br />
[https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi]<BR /><br />
The STL files for printed parts are published on Thingiverse:<BR /><br />
[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53708 www.thingiverse.com/thing:53708]<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
The prototype was originally run using the Marlin firmware and later switched to the Repetier firmware.<br />
<br />
==Current Project Status==<br />
As of 27 March. The prototype is assembled and printing. The BOM and source files were published to Github today.<BR /><br />
Some new photos posted to Flickr today.<br />
<br />
==Known Issues==<br />
*The bowden extruder setup being used is slow to retract which means prints are a little stringy.<br />
*Calibration is "tricky" this is an issue with all Delta designs. People are working on simplifying the process.<br />
*The final design will probably add 2 or 3 side panels. This will stiffen the frame and reduce the risk of breaking the top and bottom bar clamps if someone is rough with it.<br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
Photos of the prototype here:[http://www.flickr.com/photos/86621828@N05/sets/72157632623446146/ on flickr.com]<BR /><br />
Video of the prototype here: [https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGyolvuY29uOzHDMwNHT6_VwP4YApPiwr on YouTube]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Delta-Pi_photo_of_prototype.JPG&diff=87041File:Delta-Pi photo of prototype.JPG2013-03-27T10:59:03Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Photo of the completed prototype.</p>
<hr />
<div>Photo of the completed prototype.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Delta-Pi_Carriage_View.JPG&diff=87040File:Delta-Pi Carriage View.JPG2013-03-27T10:53:11Z<p>MikeP-NZ: A view of the carriage showing the 623ZZ bearings, live hinge design and spring beam for tension adjustment.</p>
<hr />
<div>A view of the carriage showing the 623ZZ bearings, live hinge design and spring beam for tension adjustment.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Delta-Pi_Extruder_Platform.jpg&diff=87039File:Delta-Pi Extruder Platform.jpg2013-03-27T10:42:34Z<p>MikeP-NZ: uploaded a new version of "File:Delta-Pi Extruder Platform.jpg":&#32;Shows newest design</p>
<hr />
<div>Photo of the extruder platform</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Overall_Assy1.JPG&diff=87033File:Overall Assy1.JPG2013-03-27T09:56:44Z<p>MikeP-NZ: uploaded a new version of "File:Overall Assy1.JPG":&#32;Reverted to version as of 10:14, 15 March 2013</p>
<hr />
<div>A rendered image of the Delta-Pi Reprap design.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Overall_Assy1.JPG&diff=85895File:Overall Assy1.JPG2013-03-15T21:04:48Z<p>MikeP-NZ: uploaded a new version of "File:Overall Assy1.JPG":&#32;Reverted to version as of 10:23, 27 January 2013</p>
<hr />
<div>A rendered image of the Delta-Pi Reprap design.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Delta-Pi&diff=85894Delta-Pi2013-03-15T21:03:20Z<p>MikeP-NZ: status update</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Delta-Pi<br />
|status = Concept<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Overall_Assy1.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Delta-Pi is a Rostock style Delta printer with a new carriage design.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = Rostock<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Delta|Delta]][[Category:Delta]]<br />
|cadModel = [https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi GitHub]<br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This is essentially a new design in that it does not reuse any parts from an existing design. It does however take a lot of its heritage and style from Johan's Rostock design. A huge thanks to all of those whose hard work, knowledge and innovation have brought things this far. Now I hope that I can add my own little increment to the development of the Reprap concept.<br />
Mike Paauwe<br />
<br />
==History==<br />
The first iteration of this machine featured the vertical towers separated by 90° instead of the normal 120°. The reason for this was that it gave a better shaped build area. The build area was more square than hexagonal or triangular. After building the prototype it became obvious that the concept was seriously flawed. In theory the three towers kept the centre platform fully constrained but in practice the platform was relying on the torsional stiffness of the arms whenever one set of arms was near horizontal. The result wasn't really usable over a large portion of the intended build envelope. So the 90° tower angles were dropped and the design reverted to being a more standard Rostock Delta style 3D printer.<br />
<br />
==Design Changes==<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Extruder Platform.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
<br />
===Crossed-Roller Carriage Design===<br />
The immediately obvious change is that the design does not use 8mm rod and LM8UU bearings. The Delta-Pi uses a live-loaded crossed-roller carriage design running on the corners of a 19mm square tube. The tube is a sanded finish stainless steel that should be easily available anywhere in the world. The carriage design contains 8 623ZZ bearings and another 2 are used for the idler pulley making 10 per tower and 30 total for the printer. The carriage design features a live hinge and spring beam that allows the bearing tension to be adjusted.<br />
The inside of the tubes is open so that it can be used to run wires to the top of the printer.<br />
<br />
===Arm Design===<br />
The arm design has been changed slightly from the Rostock design. The arms use a 6mm carbon fibre tube and the tube is glued inside a clevis. That's not too different but the yokes at each end of the arm assembly are intended to simplify assembly and reduce the number of fasteners required.<br />
<br />
===Belt connection===<br />
The belt can be either S2M or GT2 belt and is 6mm wide. The belt is connected to the carriage by looping a short length back on itself. The belt teeth interlock and a small piece of rod (3mm filament) stops the loop from pulling out.<br />
The belt is tensioned by moving the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
==Design Source==<br />
The design has been created using SolidWorks and the source files will be published on GitHub in due course.<BR /><br />
Assembly documentation, BOMs and drawings will be posted to GitHub too.<BR /><br />
[https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi]<BR /><br />
The STL files are published on Thingiverse:<BR /><br />
[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53708 www.thingiverse.com/thing:53708]<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
The prototype was originally run using the Marlin firmware and later switched to the Repetier firmware.<br />
<br />
==Current Project Status==<br />
As of 15 March. The prototype is assembled and printing.<br />
Some new photos posted to Flickr today<br />
<br />
Photos of the prototype here:[http://www.flickr.com/photos/86621828@N05/sets/72157632623446146/ on flickr.com]<BR /><br />
Video of the prototype here: [https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGyolvuY29uOzHDMwNHT6_VwP4YApPiwr on YouTube]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Overall_Assy1.JPG&diff=85885File:Overall Assy1.JPG2013-03-15T10:14:55Z<p>MikeP-NZ: uploaded a new version of "File:Overall Assy1.JPG":&#32;Revised to reflect current design</p>
<hr />
<div>A rendered image of the Delta-Pi Reprap design.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Delta-Pi&diff=83450Delta-Pi2013-02-24T20:54:59Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Link to STL files published on Thingiverse</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Delta-Pi<br />
|status = Concept<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Overall_Assy1.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Delta-Pi is a Rostock style Delta printer with a new carriage design.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = Rostock<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Delta|Delta]][[Category:Delta]]<br />
|cadModel = [https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi GitHub]<br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This is essentially a new design in that it does not reuse any parts from an existing design. It does however take a lot of its heritage and style from Johan's Rostock design. A huge thanks to all of those whose hard work, knowledge and innovation have brought things this far. Now I hope that I can add my own little increment to the development of the Reprap concept.<br />
Mike Paauwe<br />
<br />
==History==<br />
The first iteration of this machine featured the vertical towers separated by 90° instead of the normal 120°. The reason for this was that it gave a better shaped build area. The build area was more square than hexagonal or triangular. After building the prototype it became obvious that the concept was seriously flawed. In theory the three towers kept the centre platform fully constrained but in practice the platform was relying on the torsional stiffness of the arms whenever one set of arms was near horizontal. The result wasn't really usable over a large portion of the intended build envelope. So the 90° tower angles were dropped and the design reverted to being a more standard Rostock Delta style 3D printer.<br />
<br />
==Design Changes==<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Extruder Platform.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
<br />
===Crossed-Roller Carriage Design===<br />
The immediately obvious change is that the design does not use 8mm rod and LM8UU bearings. The Delta-Pi uses a live-loaded crossed-roller carriage design running on the corners of a 19mm square tube. The tube is a sanded finish stainless steel that should be easily available anywhere in the world. The carriage design contains 8 623ZZ bearings and another 2 are used for the idler pulley making 10 per tower and 30 total for the printer. The carriage design features a live hinge and spring beam that allows the bearing tension to be adjusted.<br />
The inside of the tubes is open so that it can be used to run wires to the top of the printer.<br />
<br />
===Arm Design===<br />
The arm design has been changed slightly from the Rostock design. The arms use a 6mm carbon fibre tube and the tube is glued inside a clevis. That's not too different but the yokes at each end of the arm assembly are intended to simplify assembly and reduce the number of fasteners required.<br />
<br />
===Belt connection===<br />
The belt can be either S2M or GT2 belt and is 6mm wide. The belt is connected to the carriage by looping a short length back on itself. The belt teeth interlock and a small piece of rod (3mm filament) stops the loop from pulling out.<br />
The belt is tensioned by moving the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
==Design Source==<br />
The design has been created using SolidWorks and the source files will be published on GitHub in due course.<BR /><br />
Assembly documentation, BOMs and drawings will be posted to GitHub too.<BR /><br />
[https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi]<BR /><br />
The STL files are published on Thingiverse:<BR /><br />
[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53708 www.thingiverse.com/thing:53708]<br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
The prototype was originally run using the Marlin firmware and later switched to the Repetier firmware.<br />
<br />
==Current Project Status==<br />
As of 25 February. The prototype is assembled and moving. All that's missing is the Bowden extruder feed end.<br />
Some new video posted today<br />
<br />
Photos of the prototype here:[http://www.flickr.com/photos/86621828@N05/sets/72157632623446146/ on flickr.com]<BR /><br />
Video of the prototype here: [https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGyolvuY29uOzHDMwNHT6_VwP4YApPiwr on YouTube]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Delta-Pi&diff=83403Delta-Pi2013-02-24T11:35:41Z<p>MikeP-NZ: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Delta-Pi<br />
|status = Concept<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Overall_Assy1.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Delta-Pi is a Rostock style Delta printer with a new carriage design.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = Rostock<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Delta|Delta]][[Category:Delta]]<br />
|cadModel = [https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi GitHub]<br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This is essentially a new design in that it does not reuse any parts from an existing design. It does however take a lot of its heritage and style from Johan's Rostock design. A huge thanks to all of those whose hard work, knowledge and innovation have brought things this far. Now I hope that I can add my own little increment to the development of the Reprap concept.<br />
Mike Paauwe<br />
<br />
==History==<br />
The first iteration of this machine featured the vertical towers separated by 90° instead of the normal 120°. The reason for this was that it gave a better shaped build area. The build area was more square than hexagonal or triangular. After building the prototype it became obvious that the concept was seriously flawed. In theory the three towers kept the center platform fully constrained but in practice the platform was relying on the torsional stiffness of the arms whenever one set of arms was near horizontal. The result wasn't really usable over a lrge portion of the intended build envelope. So the 90° tower angles were dropped and the design reverted to being a more standard Rostock Delta style 3D printer.<br />
<br />
==Design Changes==<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Extruder Platform.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
<br />
===Crossed-Roller Carriage Design===<br />
The immediately obvious change is that the design does not use 8mm rod and LM8UU bearings. The Delta-Pi uses a live-loaded crossed-roller carriage design running on the corners of a 19mm square tube. The tube is a sanded finish stainless steel that should be easily available anywhere in the world. The carriage design contains 8 623ZZ bearings and another 2 are used for the idler pulley making 10 per tower and 30 total for the printer. The carriage design features a live hinge and spring beam that allows the bearing tension to be adjusted.<br />
The inside of the tubes is open so that it can be used to run wires to the top of the printer.<br />
<br />
===Arm Design===<br />
The arm design has been changed slightly from the Rostock design. The arms use a 6mm carbon fibre tube and the tube is glued inside a clevis. That's not too different but the yokes at each end of the arm assembly are intended to simplify assembly and reduce the number of fasteners required.<br />
<br />
===Belt connection===<br />
The belt can be either S2M or GT2 belt and is 6mm wide. The belt is connected to the carriage by looping a short length back on itself. The belt teeth interlock and a small piece of rod (3mm filament) stops the loop from pulling out.<br />
The belt is tensioned by moving the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
==Design Source==<br />
The design has been done using Solidworks and the source files will be published on GitHub in due course.<BR /><br />
Assembly documentation, BOMs and drawings will be posted to GitHub too.<BR /><br />
[https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi]<BR /><br />
The STL files will be published to Thingiverse as soon as the prototype is successfully built.<BR /><br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
The protoype was originally run using the Marlin firmware and later switched to the Repetier firmware.<br />
<br />
==Current Project Status==<br />
As of 25 February. The prototype is assembled and moving. All that's missing is the Bowden extruder feed end.<br />
Some new video posted today<br />
<br />
Photos of the prototype here:[http://www.flickr.com/photos/86621828@N05/sets/72157632623446146/ on flickr.com]<BR /><br />
Video of the prototype here: [https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGyolvuY29uOzHDMwNHT6_VwP4YApPiwr on YouTube]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Delta-Pi&diff=83402Delta-Pi2013-02-24T11:35:12Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Rewrite to abandon 90° towers.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Delta-Pi<br />
|status = Concept<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Overall_Assy1.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Delta-Pi is a Rostock style Delta printer with a new carriage design and a tower layout that maximises printable area.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = Rostock<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Delta|Delta]][[Category:Delta]]<br />
|cadModel = [https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi GitHub]<br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This is essentially a new design in that it does not reuse any parts from an existing design. It does however take a lot of its heritage and style from Johan's Rostock design. A huge thanks to all of those whose hard work, knowledge and innovation have brought things this far. Now I hope that I can add my own little increment to the development of the Reprap concept.<br />
Mike Paauwe<br />
<br />
==History==<br />
The first iteration of this machine featured the vertical towers separated by 90° instead of the normal 120°. The reason for this was that it gave a better shaped build area. The build area was more square than hexagonal or triangular. After building the prototype it became obvious that the concept was seriously flawed. In theory the three towers kept the center platform fully constrained but in practice the platform was relying on the torsional stiffness of the arms whenever one set of arms was near horizontal. The result wasn't really usable over a lrge portion of the intended build envelope. So the 90° tower angles were dropped and the design reverted to being a more standard Rostock Delta style 3D printer.<br />
<br />
==Design Changes==<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Extruder Platform.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
<br />
===Crossed-Roller Carriage Design===<br />
The immediately obvious change is that the design does not use 8mm rod and LM8UU bearings. The Delta-Pi uses a live-loaded crossed-roller carriage design running on the corners of a 19mm square tube. The tube is a sanded finish stainless steel that should be easily available anywhere in the world. The carriage design contains 8 623ZZ bearings and another 2 are used for the idler pulley making 10 per tower and 30 total for the printer. The carriage design features a live hinge and spring beam that allows the bearing tension to be adjusted.<br />
The inside of the tubes is open so that it can be used to run wires to the top of the printer.<br />
<br />
===Arm Design===<br />
The arm design has been changed slightly from the Rostock design. The arms use a 6mm carbon fibre tube and the tube is glued inside a clevis. That's not too different but the yokes at each end of the arm assembly are intended to simplify assembly and reduce the number of fasteners required.<br />
<br />
===Belt connection===<br />
The belt can be either S2M or GT2 belt and is 6mm wide. The belt is connected to the carriage by looping a short length back on itself. The belt teeth interlock and a small piece of rod (3mm filament) stops the loop from pulling out.<br />
The belt is tensioned by moving the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
==Design Source==<br />
The design has been done using Solidworks and the source files will be published on GitHub in due course.<BR /><br />
Assembly documentation, BOMs and drawings will be posted to GitHub too.<BR /><br />
[https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi]<BR /><br />
The STL files will be published to Thingiverse as soon as the prototype is successfully built.<BR /><br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
The protoype was originally run using the Marlin firmware and later switched to the Repetier firmware.<br />
<br />
==Current Project Status==<br />
As of 25 February. The prototype is assembled and moving. All that's missing is the Bowden extruder feed end.<br />
Some new video posted today<br />
<br />
Photos of the prototype here:[http://www.flickr.com/photos/86621828@N05/sets/72157632623446146/ on flickr.com]<BR /><br />
Video of the prototype here: [https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGyolvuY29uOzHDMwNHT6_VwP4YApPiwr on YouTube]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Delta-Pi&diff=83207Delta-Pi2013-02-23T06:32:41Z<p>MikeP-NZ: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Delta-Pi<br />
|status = Concept<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Overall_Assy1.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Delta-Pi is a Rostock style Delta printer with a new carriage design and a tower layout that maximises printable area.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = Rostock<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Delta|Delta]][[Category:Delta]]<br />
|cadModel = [https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi GitHub]<br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This is essentially a new design although it takes a lot of its heritage and style from Johan's Rostock design.<br />
<br />
The most obvious change I have made are:<br />
# to move the towers from 120° separation to 90° separation.<br />
# to change from 8mm smooth rod and LM8UU to bearings running on a square stainless steel tube.<br />
<br />
==Design Changes==<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Extruder Platform.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
<br />
===Moving the towers===<br />
The towers have been moved from the 120° separation used in Rostock. The Delta-Pi has the towers positioned 90° apart. This has its benefits and its drawbacks.<br />
<br />
One benefit is that the build area becomes more square in shape instead of hexagonal or triangular. The result is that with the same arm length as the Rostock this design gives you a build area covering a full 205mm square and a 250mm diameter circle. The standard Rostock could not reach the corners of a 200mm square.<br />
<br />
Aesthetically the Delta-Pi is cleaner with a completely open front. No front tower to get in the way of your viewing pleasure.<br />
<br />
The downside shifting the towers is that the effective resolution is sacrificed slightly. Given the same steps per mm on the 3 towers the the Delta-Pi has about 50% larger steps in the x-y plane than the Rostock design. To compensate for that the design uses GT2 or S2M 20 tooth pulleys and 0.9° stepper motors.<br />
<br />
===Crossed-Roller Carriage Design===<br />
The other immediately obvious change is that the design does not use 8mm rod and LM8UU bearings. The Delta-Pi uses a live-loaded crossed-roller carriage design running on the corners of a 19mm square tube. The tube is a sanded finish stainless steel that should be easily available anywhere in the world. The carriage design contains 8 623ZZ bearings and another 2 are used for the idler pulley making 10 per tower and 30 total for the printer. The carriage design features a live hinge and spring beam that allows the bearing tension to be adjusted.<br />
<br />
==Design Source==<br />
The design has been done using Solidworks and the source files will be published on GitHub in due course.<BR /><br />
Assembly documentation, BOMs and drawings will be posted to GitHub too.<BR /><br />
[https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi]<BR /><br />
The STL files will be published to Thingiverse as soon as the prototype is successfully built.<BR /><br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
Because of the way the Rostock firmware is written the changes are only required in the config.h section of the code.<br />
<br />
==Current Project Status==<br />
As of 3 February 2013.<BR /><br />
A prototype has been built and is moving under firmware control. There are some issues with the extruder platform twisting near the front of the build envelope.<br />
The next step is to fit a pen holder and see whether it can draw something.<br />
<br />
Photos of the prototype here:[http://www.flickr.com/photos/86621828@N05/sets/72157632623446146/ on flickr.com]<BR /><br />
Video of the prototype here: [https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGyolvuY29uOzHDMwNHT6_VwP4YApPiwr on YouTube]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Talk:RepRap_history&diff=82939Talk:RepRap history2013-02-21T21:35:10Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Created page with 'Could someone replace references to spring, summer etc with quarters or months. It's confusing because some of the events described are in Northern hemisphere and some in the so…'</p>
<hr />
<div>Could someone replace references to spring, summer etc with quarters or months. It's confusing because some of the events described are in Northern hemisphere and some in the southern hemisphere and the seasons are different for each.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Delta-Pi&diff=80842Delta-Pi2013-02-03T03:14:03Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Update to show prototype build and video links</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Delta-Pi<br />
|status = Concept<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Overall_Assy1.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Delta-Pi is a Rostock style Delta printer with a new carriage design and a tower layout that maximises printable area.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = Rostock<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Delta|Delta]][[Category:Delta]]<br />
|cadModel = [https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi GitHub]<br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This is essentially a new design although it takes a lot of its heritage and style from Johan's Rostock design.<br />
<br />
The most obvious change I have made are:<br />
# to move the towers from 120° separation to 90° separation.<br />
# to change from 8mm smooth rod and LM8UU to bearings running on a square stainless steel tube.<br />
<br />
==Design Changes==<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Extruder Platform.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
<br />
===Moving the towers===<br />
The towers have been moved from the 120° separation used in Rostock. The Delta-Pi has the towers positioned 90° apart. This has its benefits and its drawbacks.<br />
<br />
One benefit is that the build area becomes more square in shape instead of hexagonal or triangular. The result is that with the same arm length as the Rostock this design gives you a build area covering a full 205mm square and a 250mm diameter circle. The standard Rostock could not reach the corners of a 200mm square.<br />
<br />
Aesthetically the Delta-Pi is cleaner with a completely open front. No front tower to get in the way of your viewing pleasure.<br />
<br />
The downside shifting the towers is that the effective resolution is sacrificed slightly. Given the same steps per mm on the 3 towers the the Delta-Pi has about 50% larger steps in the x-y plane than the Rostock design. To compensate for that the design uses GT2 or S2M 20 tooth pulleys and 0.9° stepper motors.<br />
<br />
===Crossed-Roller Carriage Design===<br />
The other immediately obvious change is that the design does not use 8mm rod and LM8UU bearings. The Delta-Pi uses a live-loaded crossed-roller carriage design running on the corners of a 19mm square tube. The tube is a sanded finish stainless steel that should be easily available anywhere in the world. The carriage design contains 8 623ZZ bearings and another 2 are used for the idler pulley making 10 per tower and 30 total for the printer. The carriage design features a live hinge and spring beam that allows the bearing tension to be adjusted.<br />
<br />
==Design Source==<br />
The design has been done using Solidworks and the source files will be published on GitHub in due course.<BR /><br />
Assembly documentation, BOMs and drawings will be posted to GitHub too.<BR /><br />
[https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi]<BR /><br />
The STL files will be published to Thingiverse as soon as the prototype is successfully built.<BR /><br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
Because of the way the Rostock firmware is written the changes are only required in the config.h section of the code.<br />
<br />
==Current Project Status==<br />
As of 3 February 2013.<BR /><br />
A prototype has been built and is moving under firmware control. There are some issues with the extruder platform twisting near the front of the build envelope.<br />
The next step is to fit a pen holder and see whether it can draw something.<br />
<br />
Photos of the prototype here:[http://www.flickr.com/photos/86621828@N05/sets/72157632623446146/ on flickr.com]<BR /><br />
Video of the prototype here: [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL8R4OSETS9w4YhqKZxSJ_sn5H3QVfR8ZY on YouTube]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Delta-Pi_Carriage.jpg&diff=80841File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg2013-02-03T03:10:52Z<p>MikeP-NZ: uploaded a new version of "File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg":&#32;Photo of carriage from first machine build</p>
<hr />
<div>Close -up of a prototype carriage. showing the 623ZZ bearings</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Delta-Pi_Extruder_Platform.jpg&diff=80840File:Delta-Pi Extruder Platform.jpg2013-02-03T03:07:44Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Photo of the extruder platform</p>
<hr />
<div>Photo of the extruder platform</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=KISS_Hot_End&diff=80009KISS Hot End2013-01-29T03:57:45Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Added some known issues</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = KISS Hot End<br />
|status = Experimental<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = A simple hot end that can be made without access to machine tools<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = J_Head_Nozzle<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Hot End|Hot End]][[Category:Hot End]]<br />
|cadModel = <br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
For those unfamiliar with the acronym KISS it stands for "Keep It Simple, Stupid". This version is an attempt to design a hot end that performs well and is still quick and easy to fabricate.<br />
<br />
Key aspects of the hot end are:<br />
*Minimal part count<br />
*Can be fabricated without the need for a lathe or milling machine.<br />
*If you do use a lathe then you don't need to use advanced techniques like 4-jaw chucks and turning external threads.<br />
*Eliminate joints that can leak plastic (still has one joint that can leak if not tightened)<br />
*Easy to clean out blockages.<br />
*Easy to dis-assemble to swap for a different sized orifice.<br />
<br />
The current design still has some issues. Please see known issues for details.<br />
<br />
The design uses an off the shelf brass M8x30mm hex head bolt to form the extruder barrel and nozzle.<br />
This brass bolt is threaded through a simple aluminium block that carries a heater cartridge and a thermistor.<br />
A PEEK insulator prevents too much heat from being transferred to the extruder body.<br />
[[File:KISS Hot End Parts.JPG|thumb|right|400px|All the parts of a KISS hot end except the PFA tube- The PEEK insulator and Brass nozzle designs have changed slightly since this photo.]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end bottom view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Bottom View]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Top View]]<br />
==Fabricated Components==<br />
===Brass Bolt===<br />
The M8x30 brass bolt is modified by drilling down the center towards the head at 3.2mm or 2mm depending on the filament size you intend to use.<BR /><br />
Drill to within about 0.5mm of the bolt head. This can be done in a drill press. You could probably even do it with a hand held drill if you were careful.<BR /><br />
Next drill the hole out to the same size as the OD of the Teflon/PFA tube and to a depth of 5mm. This should be about 5.2mm for 5mm OD PFA tubing.<BR /> <br />
Remove the first 2mm of thread from the end of the bolt. A bench grinder, angle grinder or file can be used for this.<br />
The head of the bolt is then shaped to a cone shape, leaving a flat of about 1mm diameter. This can be done by gripping the bolt in a drill and spinning it while removing material with an angle grinder, bench grinder or a belt sander. You could also use a lathe if you have access to one. Finish it off with a bit of wet and dry sand paper to give it a nice appearance.<BR /><br />
The last step is to drill the orifice. Drill a 0.35mm to 0.5mm hole as you prefer in the center of the flat area on the tip of the bolt. This can be done in a drill press with care. Carbide PCB drills are easier to use than HSS jobber drills. They have a 1/8" diameter body. The jobber drills are usually too small for a standard drill chuck to grip. Use the highest speed your drill press is capable of and take lots of small pecks at the hole until it breaks through.<br />
===Aluminium Block===<br />
The aluminium block is easier to make. You need a block about 20 x 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2". There are a few ways to get this. Buy 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 1/2" solid bar and cut a short length from that. 20 mm or 3/4" square bar could also be used. Or you could get some 12 mm plate and cut out a 20 mm square.<BR /><br />
Clean it up and square it with a file then mark out the three holes as per the drawing. Positioning is not critical.<BR /><br />
Tap an M8 thread into the largest hole. Take care to get the thread started square to the hole. It is best to use a taper tap for this.<BR /><br />
If you have a 6mm reamer available then drill the 6 mm hole under size and use the reamer to finish it, otherwise just drill it 5.5 mm and then drill again to 6mm.<br />
===PEEK Insulator===<br />
The last part is the plastic insulator. Drill and tap as per the drawing. For the M8 thread you should start the thread using a taper tap to ensure it is square and then use a plug tap to finish the thread to the required depth.<BR /><br />
Use a hacksaw and a file to cut the groove mount slots near the top.<br />
==Other Components==<br />
===Heater Cartridge===<br />
The heater cartridge used for the prototype is 6mm diameter and 20mm long and provides 25W at 12V. You can also buy 6 x 23 mm 40 W cartridges through e-bay. You will need to make some changes to dimensions if you use the longer heater cartridge. It is important that the brass nozzle bottoms out in the tapped hole of the PEEK insulator and that the PFA tube is the right length for the cavity.<BR /><br />
If you want to use a wire wound resistor for the heater you can. Just adjust the 6mm hole size to suit your resistor.<BR /><br />
When mounting the heater cartridge the prototype did not require any heat sink paste or glue. With a close fitting hole and a heater cartridge there is plenty of heat transfer. If you are using a wire wound resistor then some fire cement or exhaust gasket cement would be a good idea. Also worth considering is Loctite 5920 CopperMaxx. This is a hi-temp silicone sealant that withstands 316°C and contains copper particles.<br />
===Teflon PTFE or PFA tubing===<br />
The short length of Teflon PTFE or PFA tubing is important it has a low coefficient of friction and ensures the filament can't swell up and jamb if it softens before it enters the barrel.<BR /><br />
The prototype used PFA tubing. PFA has much the same properties as PTFE but it is transparent and is easier to extrude into tubing. Both are types of Teflon.<br />
===Insulation===<br />
The heater block will benefit from being insulated, particularly if you have cooling fans directed at it. The prototype was wrapped with 2 layers of red silicone foam rubber sheet about 1 mm thick, held in place with a strip of Kapton tape.<BR /><br />
The glass fibre sheet that has been used on other designs of hot end would also be good. With a 25W heater the hot end maintained 200°C with about 60% on time. The heat up time was only a few minutes. If a fan was blowing on the bare hot end then the heat up time was too long.<br />
==Assembly==<br />
#Screw the brass bolt into the aluminium block<br />
#Do it up nice and tight<br />
#Insert the PFA tube into the PEEK insulator<br />
#Insert the heater cartridge into the aluminium block<br />
#Screw the insulator onto the end of the brass bolt<br />
#insert the thermistor bead into the aluminium block<br />
#Wrap a strip of Kapton tape around the PEEK insulator and the wires to hold the thermistor and heater in place.<br />
==Drawings==<br />
Drawings of all components:[[File:KISS Hot End.PDF]]<br />
==Variations==<br />
===Bowden Hot End===<br />
If you want a bowden type hot end then make a tapped hole at the top end of the PEEK insulator. M5, 1/8"BSPT or NPT thread depending on your choice of pneumatic fitting.<BR /><br />
For 3mm filament the bowden tube should be 3mm ID/5mm OD. IMI Norgren manufacture fittings for 5mm tube that work. They require a 1/8 BSPT thread. Norgren P/N101250518.<BR /><br />
For 1.75mm filament the bowden tube should be 2mm ID/4mm OD. Norgren P/N 101250418 is 4mm to 1/8BSPT push fit.<br />
==Known Issues==<br />
If you use this with a PLA extruder body then you need a cooling fan blowing across the PEEK insulator. Without it the heat transferred through the PEEK will get the extruder body hot enough to get a bit soft. A small amount of airflow is required to prevent this. The prototype had a small 40 mm video card fan running at 30% and ran without issues.<br />
<br />
Machining grooves into the PEEK insulator would help prevent this. The grooves do this by reducing the conduction path and by increasing the surface area.<br />
These grooves could be made using a hacksaw with care but a lathe would make this task easier.<br />
<br />
When reassembling the hot end it pays to heat it up and tighten it again. <br />
Some leakage will occur between the PEEK insulator and the brass nozzle. A few wraps of PTFE thread tape might reduce this.<br />
<br />
==Sources of Supply==<br />
===Heater Cartridges===<br />
[http://www.makershop.co.nz/heater-6x20-25W www.makershop.co.nz]<BR /><br />
[http://stores.ebay.com/reprapdiscount reprapdiscount]<br />
===Teflon/PFA Tube===<br />
[http://www.makershop.co.nz/PFA_4-2MM www.makershop.co.nz]<BR /><br />
[http://www.mcmaster.com/#pfa-tubing www.mcmaster.com]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Delta-Pi&diff=79645Delta-Pi2013-01-27T11:31:48Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Added Flickr link</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development:Stub}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Delta-Pi<br />
|status = Concept<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Overall_Assy1.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Delta-Pi is a Rostock style Delta printer with a new carriage design and a tower layout that maximises printable area.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = Rostock<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Delta|Delta]][[Category:Delta]]<br />
|cadModel = [https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi GitHub]<br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This is essentially a new design although it takes a lot of its heritage and style from Johan's Rostock design.<br />
<br />
The most obvious change I have made are:<br />
# to move the towers from 120° separation to 90° separation.<br />
# to change from 8mm smooth rod and LM8UU to bearings running on a square stainless steel tube.<br />
<br />
==Design Changes==<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
===Moving the towers===<br />
The towers have been moved from the 120° separation used in Rostock. The Delta-Pi has the towers positioned 90° apart. This has its benefits and its drawbacks.<br />
<br />
One benefit is that the build area becomes more square in shape instead of hexagonal or triangular. The result is that with the same arm length as the Rostock this design gives you a build area covering a full 205mm square and a 250mm diameter circle. The standard Rostock could not reach the corners of a 200mm square.<br />
<br />
Aesthetically the Delta-Pi is cleaner with a completely open front. No front tower to get in the way of your viewing pleasure.<br />
<br />
The downside shifting the towers is that the effective resolution is sacrificed slightly. Given the same steps per mm on the 3 towers the the Delta-Pi has about 50% larger steps in the x-y plane than the Rostock design. To compensate for that the design uses GT2 or S2M 20 tooth pulleys and 0.9° stepper motors.<br />
<br />
===Crossed-Roller Carriage Design===<br />
The other immediately obvious change is that the design does not use 8mm rod and LM8UU bearings. The Delta-Pi uses a live-loaded crossed-roller carriage design running on the corners of a 19mm square tube. The tube is a sanded finish stainless steel that should be easily available anywhere in the world. The carriage design contains 8 623ZZ bearings and another 2 are used for the idler pulley making 10 per tower and 30 total for the printer. The carriage design features a live hinge and spring beam that allows the bearing tension to be adjusted.<br />
<br />
==Current Project Status==<br />
As of 27 Jan 2013.<br />
<br />
A prototype single tower has been built and tested and worked well. This resulted in a few design changes that have been done.<br />
<br />
The design of all parts for the first full build is completed and the parts are printing. So this seemed like a good time to tell the world.<br />
<br />
Photos of the prototype here:<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/86621828@N05/sets/72157632623446146/ on flickr.com]<br />
==Design Source==<br />
The design has been done using Solidworks and the source files will be published on GitHub in due course.<BR /><br />
Assembly documentation, BOMs and drawings will be posted to GitHub too.<BR /><br />
[https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi]<BR /><br />
The STL files will be published to Thingiverse as soon as the prototype is successfully built.<BR /><br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
Because the towers are arranged differently the Rostock firmwares will require modification to work on Delta-Pi. The changes are minor though and this will be my first priority once the prototype is built.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Delta-Pi&diff=79644Delta-Pi2013-01-27T11:13:24Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Added Pictures</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development:Stub}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Delta-Pi<br />
|status = Concept<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Overall_Assy1.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Delta-Pi is a Rostock style Delta printer with a new carriage design and a tower layout that maximises printable area.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = Rostock<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Delta|Delta]][[Category:Delta]]<br />
|cadModel = [https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi GitHub]<br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This is essentially a new design although it takes a lot of its heritage and style from Johan's Rostock design.<br />
<br />
The most obvious change I have made are:<br />
# to move the towers from 120° separation to 90° separation.<br />
# to change from 8mm smooth rod and LM8UU to bearings running on a square stainless steel tube.<br />
<br />
==Design Changes==<br />
[[File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg|right|400px|thumb|Close-up of prototype carriage showing live hinge, spring beam and a couple of the 623ZZ bearings visible]]<br />
===Moving the towers===<br />
The towers have been moved from the 120° separation used in Rostock. The Delta-Pi has the towers positioned 90° apart. This has its benefits and its drawbacks.<br />
<br />
One benefit is that the build area becomes more square in shape instead of hexagonal or triangular. The result is that with the same arm length as the Rostock this design gives you a build area covering a full 205mm square and a 250mm diameter circle. The standard Rostock could not reach the corners of a 200mm square.<br />
<br />
Aesthetically the Delta-Pi is cleaner with a completely open front. No front tower to get in the way of your viewing pleasure.<br />
<br />
The downside shifting the towers is that the effective resolution is sacrificed slightly. Given the same steps per mm on the 3 towers the the Delta-Pi has about 50% larger steps in the x-y plane than the Rostock design. To compensate for that the design uses GT2 or S2M 20 tooth pulleys and 0.9° stepper motors.<br />
<br />
===Crossed-Roller Carriage Design===<br />
The other immediately obvious change is that the design does not use 8mm rod and LM8UU bearings. The Delta-Pi uses a live-loaded crossed-roller carriage design running on the corners of a 19mm square tube. The tube is a sanded finish stainless steel that should be easily available anywhere in the world. The carriage design contains 8 623ZZ bearings and another 2 are used for the idler pulley making 10 per tower and 30 total for the printer. The carriage design features a live hinge and spring beam that allows the bearing tension to be adjusted.<br />
<br />
==Current Project Status==<br />
As of 27 Jan 2013.<br />
<br />
A prototype single tower has been built and tested and worked well. This resulted in a few design changes that have been done.<br />
<br />
The design of all parts for the first full build is completed and the parts are printing. So this seemed like a good time to tell the world.<br />
<br />
==Design Source==<br />
The design has been done using Solidworks and the source files will be published on GitHub in due course.<BR /><br />
Assembly documentation, BOMs and drawings will be posted to GitHub too.<BR /><br />
[https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi]<BR /><br />
The STL files will be published to Thingiverse as soon as the prototype is successfully built.<BR /><br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
Because the towers are arranged differently the Rostock firmwares will require modification to work on Delta-Pi. The changes are minor though and this will be my first priority once the prototype is built.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Delta-Pi&diff=79643Delta-Pi2013-01-27T11:09:01Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Initial Page Creation</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development:Stub}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = Delta-Pi<br />
|status = Concept<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Overall_Assy1.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Delta-Pi is a Rostock style Delta printer with a new carriage design and a tower layout that maximises printable area.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = Rostock<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Delta|Delta]][[Category:Delta]]<br />
|cadModel = [https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi GitHub]<br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This is essentially a new design although it takes a lot of its heritage and style from Johan's Rostock design.<br />
<br />
The most obvious change I have made are:<br />
# to move the towers from 120° separation to 90° separation.<br />
# to change from 8mm smooth rod and LM8UU to bearings running on a square stainless steel tube.<br />
<br />
==Design Changes==<br />
===Moving the towers===<br />
The towers have been moved from the 120° separation used in Rostock. The Delta-Pi has the towers positioned 90° apart. This has its benefits and its drawbacks.<br />
<br />
One benefit is that the build area becomes more square in shape instead of hexagonal or triangular. The result is that with the same arm length as the Rostock this design gives you a build area covering a full 205mm square and a 250mm diameter circle. The standard Rostock could not reach the corners of a 200mm square.<br />
<br />
Aesthetically the Delta-Pi is cleaner with a completely open front. No front tower to get in the way of your viewing pleasure.<br />
<br />
The downside shifting the towers is that the effective resolution is sacrificed slightly. Given the same steps per mm on the 3 towers the the Delta-Pi has about 50% larger steps in the x-y plane than the Rostock design. To compensate for that the design uses GT2 or S2M 20 tooth pulleys and 0.9° stepper motors.<br />
<br />
===Crossed-Roller Carriage Design===<br />
The other immediately obvious change is that the design does not use 8mm rod and LM8UU bearings. The Delta-Pi uses a live-loaded crossed-roller carriage design running on the corners of a 19mm square tube. The tube is a sanded finish stainless steel that should be easily available anywhere in the world. The carriage design contains 8 623ZZ bearings and another 2 are used for the idler pulley making 10 per tower and 30 total for the printer. The carriage design features a live hinge and spring beam that allows the bearing tension to be adjusted.<br />
<br />
==Current Project Status==<br />
As of 27 Jan 2013.<br />
<br />
A prototype single tower has been built and tested and worked well. This resulted in a few design changes that have been done.<br />
<br />
The design of all parts for the first full build is completed and the parts are printing. So this seemed like a good time to tell the world.<br />
<br />
==Design Source==<br />
The design has been done using Solidworks and the source files will be published on GitHub in due course.<BR /><br />
Assembly documentation, BOMs and drawings will be posted to GitHub too.<BR /><br />
[https://github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi github.com/Makershop/DeltaPi]<BR /><br />
The STL files will be published to Thingiverse as soon as the prototype is successfully built.<BR /><br />
<br />
==Firmware==<br />
Because the towers are arranged differently the Rostock firmwares will require modification to work on Delta-Pi. The changes are minor though and this will be my first priority once the prototype is built.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Delta-Pi_Carriage.jpg&diff=79641File:Delta-Pi Carriage.jpg2013-01-27T10:28:47Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Close -up of a prototype carriage. showing the 623ZZ bearings</p>
<hr />
<div>Close -up of a prototype carriage. showing the 623ZZ bearings</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Overall_Assy1.JPG&diff=79640File:Overall Assy1.JPG2013-01-27T10:23:07Z<p>MikeP-NZ: A rendered image of the Delta-Pi Reprap design.</p>
<hr />
<div>A rendered image of the Delta-Pi Reprap design.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=KISS_Hot_End&diff=78439KISS Hot End2013-01-17T21:08:29Z<p>MikeP-NZ: correct misquote of KISS</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development:Stub}}<br />
{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = KISS Hot End<br />
|status = Experimental<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = A simple hot end that can be made without access to machine tools<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = J_Head_Nozzle<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Hot End|Hot End]][[Category:Hot End]]<br />
|cadModel = <br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
For those unfamiliar with the acronym KISS it stands for "Keep It Simple, Stupid". This version is an attempt to design a hot end that performs well and is still quick and easy to fabricate.<br />
<br />
Key aspects of the hot end are:<br />
*Minimal part count<br />
*Can be fabricated without the need for a lathe or milling machine.<br />
*If you do use a lathe then you don't need to use advanced techniques like 4-jaw chucks and turning external threads.<br />
*Eliminate joints that can leak plastic<br />
*Easy to clean out blockages.<br />
*Easy to dis-assemble to swap for a different sized orifice.<br />
<br />
The design uses an off the shelf brass M8x30mm hex head bolt to form the extruder barrel and nozzle.<br />
This brass bolt is threaded through a simple aluminium block that carries a heater cartridge and a thermistor.<br />
A PEEK insulator prevents too much heat from being transferred to the extruder body.<br />
[[File:KISS Hot End Parts.JPG|thumb|right|400px|All the parts of a KISS hot end except the PFA tube- The PEEK insulator and Brass nozzle designs have changed slightly since this photo.]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end bottom view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Bottom View]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Top View]]<br />
==Fabricated Components==<br />
===Brass Bolt===<br />
The M8x30 brass bolt is modified by drilling down the center towards the head at 3.2mm or 2mm depending on the filament size you intend to use.<BR /><br />
Drill to within about 0.5mm of the bolt head. This can be done in a drill press. You could probably even do it with a hand held drill if you were careful.<BR /><br />
Next drill the hole out to the same size as the OD of the Teflon/PFA tube and to a depth of 5mm. This should be about 5.2mm for 5mm OD PFA tubing.<BR /> <br />
Remove the first 2mm of thread from the end of the bolt. A bench grinder, angle grinder or file can be used for this.<br />
The head of the bolt is then shaped to a cone shape, leaving a flat of about 1mm diameter. This can be done by gripping the bolt in a drill and spinning it while removing material with an angle grinder, bench grinder or a belt sander. You could also use a lathe if you have access to one. Finish it off with a bit of wet and dry sand paper to give it a nice appearance.<BR /><br />
The last step is to drill the orifice. Drill a 0.35mm to 0.5mm hole as you prefer in the center of the flat area on the tip of the bolt. This can be done in a drill press with care. Carbide PCB drills are easier to use than HSS jobber drills. They have a 1/8" diameter body. The jobber drills are usually too small for a standard drill chuck to grip. Use the highest speed your drill press is capable of and take lots of small pecks at the hole until it breaks through.<br />
===Aluminium Block===<br />
The aluminium block is easier to make. You need a block about 20 x 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2". There are a few ways to get this. Buy 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 1/2" solid bar and cut a short length from that. 20 mm or 3/4" square bar could also be used. Or you could get some 12 mm plate and cut out a 20 mm square.<BR /><br />
Clean it up and square it with a file then mark out the three holes as per the drawing. Positioning is not critical.<BR /><br />
Tap an M8 thread into the largest hole. Take care to get the thread started square to the hole. It is best to use a taper tap for this.<BR /><br />
If you have a 6mm reamer available then drill the 6 mm hole under size and use the reamer to finish it, otherwise just drill it 5.5 mm and then drill again to 6mm.<br />
===PEEK Insulator===<br />
The last part is the plastic insulator. Drill and tap as per the drawing. For the M8 thread you should start the thread using a taper tap to ensure it is square and then use a plug tap to finish the thread to the required depth.<BR /><br />
Use a hacksaw and a file to cut the groove mount slots near the top.<br />
==Other Components==<br />
===Heater Cartridge===<br />
The heater cartridge used for the prototype is 6mm diameter and 20mm long and provides 25W at 12V. You can also buy 6 x 23 mm 40 W cartridges through e-bay. You will need to make some changes to dimensions if you use the longer heater cartridge. It is important that the brass nozzle bottoms out in the tapped hole of the PEEK insulator and that the PFA tube is the right length for the cavity.<BR /><br />
If you want to use a wire wound resistor for the heater you can. Just adjust the 6mm hole size to suit your resistor.<BR /><br />
When mounting the heater cartridge the prototype did not require any heat sink paste or glue. With a close fitting hole and a heater cartridge there is plenty of heat transfer. If you are using a wire wound resistor then some fire cement or exhaust gasket cement would be a good idea. Also worth considering is Loctite 5920 CopperMaxx. This is a hi-temp silicone sealant that withstands 316°C and contains copper particles.<br />
===Teflon or PFA tubing===<br />
The short length of Teflon or PFA tubing is important it has a low coefficient of friction and ensures the filament can't swell up and jamb if it softens before it enters the barrel.<BR /><br />
The prototype used PFA tubing. PFA has much the same properties as Teflon but is transparent and not quite as soft.<br />
===Insulation===<br />
The heater block will benefit from being insulated, particularly if you have cooling fans directed at it. The prototype was wrapped with 2 layers of red silicone foam rubber sheet, held in place with a strip of Kapton tape.<BR /><br />
The glass fibre sheet that has been used on other designs of hot end would also be good. With a 25W heater the hot end maintained 200°C with about 60% on time. The heat up time was only a few minutes. If a fan was blowing on the hot end then the heat up time was too long.<br />
==Assembly==<br />
#Screw the brass bolt into the aluminium block<br />
#Do it up nice and tight<br />
#Insert the PFA tube into the PEEK insulator<br />
#Insert the heater cartridge into the aluminium block<br />
#Screw the insulator onto the end of the brass bolt<br />
#insert the thermistor bead into the aluminium block<br />
#Wrap a strip of Kapton tape around the PEEK insulator and the wires to hold the thermistor and heater in place.<br />
==Drawings==<br />
Drawings of all components:[[File:KISS Hot End.PDF]]<br />
==Variations==<br />
===Bowden Hot End===<br />
If you want a bowden type hot end then make a tapped hole at the top end of the PEEK insulator. M5, 1/8"BSPT or NPT thread depending on your choice of pneumatic fitting.<BR /><br />
For 3mm filament the bowden tube should be 3mm ID/5mm OD. IMI Norgren manufacture fittings for 5mm tube that work. They require a 1/8 BSPT thread. Norgren P/N101250518.<BR /><br />
For 1.75mm filament the bowden tube should be 2mm ID/4mm OD. Norgren P/N 101250418 is 4mm to 1/8BSPT push fit.<br />
==Known Issues==<br />
If you use this with a PLA extruder body then you need a cooling fan blowing across the PEEK insulator. Without it the heat transferred through the PEEK will eventually get the extruder body hot enough to get a bit soft. A small amount of airflow is required to prevent this. The prototype had a small 40mm video card fan running at 30% and ran without issues.<br />
==Sources of Supply==<br />
===Heater Cartridges===<br />
[http://www.makershop.co.nz/heater-6x20-25W www.makershop.co.nz]<BR /><br />
[http://stores.ebay.com/reprapdiscount reprapdiscount]<br />
===Teflon/PFA Tube===<br />
[http://www.makershop.co.nz/PFA_4-2MM www.makershop.co.nz]<BR /><br />
[http://www.mcmaster.com/#pfa-tubing www.mcmaster.com]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=User:MikeP-NZ&diff=78364User:MikeP-NZ2013-01-17T12:30:55Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Created page with 'Category:Kiwi MikeP-NZ Owner of the website [http://www.makershop.co.nz www.makershop.co.nz] Lives in West Auckland'</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Kiwi]]<br />
MikeP-NZ<br />
<br />
Owner of the website [http://www.makershop.co.nz www.makershop.co.nz]<br />
<br />
Lives in West Auckland</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/New_Zealand&diff=78360RUG/New Zealand2013-01-17T12:21:06Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Moved Makershop to Reprap parts category.</p>
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<div><div id="mainPage.news" style="border: solid 1px #aaaaaa; padding: 0px;"><br />
<h2 id="mainPage.news.title" style="background:#eeeeee; font-size: 105%; line-height: 120%; font-weight: bold; padding: 0px; margin:0px;padding: 0.4em;"><br />
[[Image:20px-Exquisite-khelpcenter.png|frameless|right]][http://forums.reprap.org/feed.php?41 New Zealand Forum/Mailing List]</h2><br />
<div id="mainPage.news.text" style="padding:0px 10px 10px;"><br />
{{#widget:Feed<br />
|feedurl=http://forums.reprap.org/feed.php?41,replies=1,type=rss<br />
|chan=n<br />
|num=5<br />
|desc=0<br />
|date=y<br />
|targ=n<br />
}}<br />
</div><br />
</div><br />
<br />
= '''This area is to share and help people in New Zealand with sourcing parts for building Repraps and Repstraps'''= <br />
<br />
{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: blue" | Due to the different models / construction methods / experimental design work / budgets, a number of different types of suppliers are being listed. <br />
People can add suppliers that they have used or believe have parts that may assist people; <br />
People can also add comments about current listed suppliers. <br />
<br />
The listed suppliers are not based on lowest price. Check availability and price with supplier before purchase as any information that has been given may have changed. <br />
<br />
If adding please list- Company, Country location, Web site and Parts stocked and any other information that may be of help. - BAK Rotorua. <br />
|}<br />
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''New Zealand Filament Suppliers:''' <br />
|}<br />
<br />
* '''Diamond Age Solutions''' NZ [http://diamondage.co.nz/pla] - (Vik Oliver) - Sells plastic filaments for RepRap, RapMan, Makerbot and similar 3D printers - PLA - different colours and different dia sizes and qualities, Also ABS. Sells worldwide..<br />
<br />
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''New Zealand 3D Printers Suppliers:''' <br />
|}<br />
<br />
* '''Bay CAD Services Ltd''' Napier, NZ [http://www.baycad.biz/home-test] -Rapman 3.1 3D Printer Kits , BFB-300 3D Printers.<br />
<br />
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''New Zealand RepRap Part Suppliers:''' <br />
|}<br />
<br />
* '''Acronum Industries''' NZ [http://acronum.com/] - (Liam Beale) - Sells electronic components and RepRap plastics. Sells worldwide, ask for shipping prices.<br />
<br />
* '''Trade Me''' NZ [http://www.trademe.co.nz] - Use search "Reprap" - Number of people making/selling RepRap plastics parts and other bits..<br />
<br />
* '''Diamond Age Solutions''' NZ [http://diamondage.co.nz] - (Vik Oliver)- Supplying (made on request) M6 brass heater barrels, nozzles, PTFE insulators etc. and will do hot end kits complete with thermistor (PTFE insulator, M6 brass barrel, 4 ohm element in fire cement, 100K thermistor and nozzle to suit). Supplies model helicopter drive belts with free gears. <br />
<br />
* '''MAKERshop.co.nz''' NZ [http://www.makershop.co.nz] - Most of the electronic and mechanical components are available. <br />
<br />
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''New Zealand Component Part Suppliers:''' <br />
|}<br />
<br />
* '''Jaycar''' NZ [http://www.jaycar.co.nz] - Heater driver transistors TIP122, Thermocouple ,Un-insulated nichrome wire WW4040, Electrical components, misc, screws, plug connectors, etc. (Check catalogue, if not locally in stock, local store will often order at no freight, about a week delivery time frame). <br />
<br />
* '''Element14''' NZ [http://nz.element14.com/] (formerly called Farnell) - Major NZ source of electrical components, Thermocouple Amplifier IC AD595AG, Fischer Elektronix WLK5 adhesive thermal conductive - good for glueing heatsinks and power resistors for heated bed - rated up to temp operating 150 C. <br />
<br />
* '''RS''' NZ [http://newzealand.rs-online.com] - Electrical components, timing belts. <br />
<br />
* '''PMB''' NZ [http://www.pmb.co.nz] - Electrical components. <br />
<br />
* '''Surplustronics''' NZ [http://www.surplustronics.co.nz] - Electrical components. (Note: Stocks Nichrome wire but is un-insulated). <br />
<br />
* '''South Island Component Centre Limited''' NZ [http://www.sicom.co.nz] - Electrical components. <br />
<br />
* '''Mindkits''' NZ [http://www.mindkits.co.nz] - Arduino Specialists, Robotics parts - kits -sensors, Polyimide tape (Kapton). <br />
<br />
* '''Robokits''' NZ [http://www.robokits.co.nz/] - Robotics parts - Pololu A4983 Stepper Motor Drivers <br />
<br />
* '''Wattsup''' NZ [http://www.wattsup.co.nz] - Kapton tape - 10m length 25mm width. Approx $19.00 + freight +gst, Model Helicopter parts. <br />
<br />
* '''Robotronic''' NZ [http://www.robotronic.co.nz/] - Online shop for electronics and robotics. <br />
<br />
* '''Nicegear''' NZ [http://nicegear.co.nz/] - Online shop for electronics and robotics. <br />
<br />
* '''Active Components''' NZ [http://www.mouser.co.nz/] - Electrical components. <br />
<br />
* '''Dick Smith''' NZ [http://www.dse.co.nz] - mics parts, Electrical components (very limited). <br />
<br />
* '''Advanced circuits''' NZ [http://www.advancedcircuits.co.nz] - PCB circuit manufacture. <br />
<br />
* '''Dotmar Universal Plastics''' NZ [http://www.dotmar.co.nz/] - PTFE, Acrylic, Polycarbonate, other types of plastics <br />
<br />
* '''NZ Miniature Bearings''' NZ [http://www.nzminiaturebearings.com/home] - Miniature bearings.<br />
<br />
* '''Wilson Brothers''' NZ South Island [http://www.wilsonbros.co.nz/ - 608 bearings, Timing belt: t5-840-5 Prusa Mendel, t5-1380-5 for Mendels. <br />
<br />
* '''Local skate shop''' NZ - 608 bearings. <br />
<br />
* '''Total Trade Supplies''' NZ [http://www.totaltrade.co.nz] - Steel rods silver steel (both metric and imperial). 0.5 mm, 0.4mm, 0.3mm drill bits - Actetal material - various round diameter core sizes 300mm long (good for machining parts but expensive and wasteful as they come in cylinder shape) - Misc bolts etc. <br />
<br />
* '''Mico Metals''' NZ [http://www.micometals.co.nz] - Misc steel and stainless rods, (usually imperial sizes). <br />
<br />
* '''Ullrich Aluminium''' NZ [http://www.ullrich-aluminium.co.nz] - misc aluminium profiles (minimum 2.5 metre lengths).<br />
<br />
* '''Anzor''' NZ [http://www.anzor.co.nz/] - Stainless steel fasteners and threaded rods. Wide range (everything required), cut-to-size service, online product listing and enquiry form. <br />
<br />
* '''EDL Fasteners''' NZ [http://edlfast.co.nz] - misc screws - bolts <br />
<br />
* '''Bolt Shop''' [http://www.boltshop.co.nz] - fastners, based on the North Shore in Auckland, but not as friendly website, still worth asking.<br />
<br />
* '''Bunnings''' NZ [http://www.bunnings.co.nz] - misc bolts, nuts, screws, Blue Scotch painters tape (for printing on), tools. <br />
<br />
* '''Craftrunner''' NZ [http://www.craftrunner.co.nz/] - 4.5mm ball-chain <br />
<br />
* '''Fire places & WoodBurners sellers''' - Source of fireproof cement<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />
{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''New Zealand Software Suppliers:'''<br />
|}<br />
<br />
* '''Bay CAD Services Ltd''' Napier, NZ [http://www.baycad.biz/prices/index.htm] - Alibre 3D CAD Software Note: Personal edition doen't allow import of STL files, but will allow objects to be export as STL files - still need to use a program like Blender to modify the exported STL to enable Reprap host software to print objects. <br />
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<br />
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<br />
{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''Australia Parts Suppliers (who ship to NZ):'''<br />
|}<br />
<br />
* '''3D printing systems''' Australia [http://3dprintingsystems.com/] -- 3D Printer, 3D Scanner, consumable, accessories. <br />
<br />
* '''Small Parts & Bearings''' Australia [http://www.smallparts.com.au] -- Pulleys, belts, bearing, gears (Note-A$50 set freight charge per order). <br />
<br />
* '''Toysdownunder''' Australia [http://toysdownunder.com/] - Nicrome wire, Bearings, Electrical components, other parts for Repraps <br />
<br />
* '''AUSXMOD''' Australia [http://ausxmods.com.au] - Stepper-motors recommended by Reprap group Australia. <br />
<br />
* '''Australian Robotics''' Australia [http://www.australianrobotics.com.au/] - Popular SM-42BYG011-25 stepper motor supplier with A$15 shipping to NZ, online ordering.<br />
<br />
* '''Ocean Controls''' Australia [http://www.oceancontrols.com.au] - Stepper motor drivers [KTA-261 1 axis bipolar, KTA-263 3 axis motor driver].<br />
<br />
* '''Homann Designs''' Australia [http://www.homanndesigns.com] - Gecko stepper motor drivers, stepper motors ].<br />
<br />
Also check out the Australian RepRap suppliers: http://reprap.org/wiki/RUG/Australia/Suppliers.<br />
<br />
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<br />
{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: Brown" | '''World Parts Suppliers (who ship to NZ):''' <br />
|}<br />
<br />
* '''Reprap parts Lister''' World [http://parts.reprap.org/about] - Reprap parts <br />
<br />
* '''The Big Bearing Store''' USA, Memphis [https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/] - Bearings. <br />
<br />
* '''VXB bearings''' USA, California [http://www.vxb.com/] - Bearings. <br />
<br />
* '''Digikey''' USA [http://www.digikey.com/] - Electrical components. <br />
<br />
* '''Makerbot''' USA, NY [http://wiki.makerbot.com/] - PTFE barrel, - Nicrome wire- Thermocouple PCB . <br />
<br />
* '''Makergear''' USA [http://www.makergear.com/] - Parts for Repraps. <br />
<br />
* '''Botmill''' Florida USA [http://www.botmill.com/] - Parts for Repraps. <br />
<br />
* '''Reprap stores''' USA [http://www.reprapstores.com/] - Repraps Parts. <br />
<br />
* '''Ultimachine''' South Pittsburg, USA [http://ultimachine.com/] - Repraps Parts. <br />
<br />
* '''Techzonecom''' USA [http://techzonecom.com/] - Repraps Parts. <br />
<br />
* '''Bits from Bytes''' UK [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/] - Repraps Parts. <br />
<br />
* '''Mendel Parts.Com''' UK [http://www.mendel-parts.com/] - Repraps Parts. <br />
<br />
* '''Reprap Source''' Germany [http://www.reprapsource.com/] - Repraps Parts. <br />
<br />
* '''iPrint3D''' Belgium [http://www.iprint3d.org/] - Repraps Parts.<br />
<br />
* '''2printbeta''' Germany [http://www.2printbeta.de/] - Repraps Parts.<br />
<br />
* '''Emakershop''' UK [http://www.emakershop.com/] - Repraps Parts.<br />
<br />
* '''Reprap Ltd''' UK [http://reprapltd.com/] - Repraps Parts.<br />
<br />
* '''Reprap Stores''' UK [http://www.reprapstores.com/] - Repraps Parts.<br />
<br />
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: brown" | '''Additional customs charges may apply when importing parts into New Zealand:''' <br />
|}<br />
<br />
The current rule appears to be that New Zealand customs will not collect if the total duty to be paid is less than $60. <br />
<br />
Charges are usually: <br />
<br />
15% GST <br />
<br />
$25.30 Import Handling fee (may be charged).<br />
<br />
$12.77 MAF Clearance fee <br />
<br />
It also depends on what the shipper has declared the item value to be. GST is calculated on the total of Item Value, Shipping and Insurance, and Duty.<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
{|<br />
| style="background: white; color: brown" | '''Another thing to keep in mind when ordering parts:''' <br />
|}<br />
<br />
To make a Reprap or Repstrap you need parts; you also don’t want to spend a fortune getting them. Time to make and obtain parts and assembly time can be another issue. A lot depends on what you want to get out of building a Reprap type machine. <br />
<br />
There are a number of options starting with buying a complete reprap kit of parts from a number of overseas suppliers. The cost of freight due to the weight of a reprap will be an issue. <br />
<br />
The next option is to purchase as many of the heavier parts as possible locally, e.g. threaded rods, nuts, washers, bolts. Also purchase other parts that are available in NZ. Check the Reprap New Zealand forums for locally printed Reprap parts (http://dev.forums.reprap.org/list.php?41). Using parts from old computer equipment can also reduce costs. You then can purchase the other bits not available in New Zealand from overseas. You need to be careful that you don’t end up paying for a lot of freight with multiple orders or using too many suppliers. <br />
<br />
Depending on what machining equipment you have, you can make a lot of the parts and reduce costs as well. If you have the machining equipment you can also play around with changing the design.<br />
<br />
If budget is an issue you need to do some homework and estimate all costs before purchasing parts.<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
[[Category:Suppliers by Region]]<br />
[[Category:RUG]]<br />
[[Category:Kiwi]]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=KISS_Hot_End&diff=78356KISS Hot End2013-01-17T11:49:36Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Added Back Dev stub and dev templates</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development:Stub}}<br />
{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = KISS Hot End<br />
|status = Experimental<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = A simple hot end that can be made without access to machine tools<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = J_Head_Nozzle<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Hot End|Hot End]][[Category:Hot End]]<br />
|cadModel = <br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
For those unfamiliar with the acronym KISS it stands for "Keep It Simple Sir" (or words to that effect). This version is an attempt to design a hot end that performs well and is still quick and easy to fabricate.<br />
<br />
Key aspects of the hot end are:<br />
*Minimal part count<br />
*Can be fabricated without the need for a lathe or milling machine.<br />
*If you do use a lathe then you don't need to use advanced techniques like 4-jaw chucks and turning external threads.<br />
*Eliminate joints that can leak plastic<br />
*Easy to clean out blockages.<br />
*Easy to dis-assemble to swap for a different sized orifice.<br />
<br />
The design uses an off the shelf brass M8x30mm hex head bolt to form the extruder barrel and nozzle.<br />
This brass bolt is threaded through a simple aluminium block that carries a heater cartridge and a thermistor.<br />
A PEEK insulator prevents too much heat from being transferred to the extruder body.<br />
[[File:KISS Hot End Parts.JPG|thumb|right|400px|All the parts of a KISS hot end except the PFA tube- The PEEK insulator and Brass nozzle designs have changed slightly since this photo.]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end bottom view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Bottom View]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Top View]]<br />
==Fabricated Components==<br />
===Brass Bolt===<br />
The M8x30 brass bolt is modified by drilling down the center towards the head at 3.2mm or 2mm depending on the filament size you intend to use.<BR /><br />
Drill to within about 0.5mm of the bolt head. This can be done in a drill press. You could probably even do it with a hand held drill if you were careful.<BR /><br />
Next drill the hole out to the same size as the OD of the Teflon/PFA tube and to a depth of 5mm. This should be about 5.2mm for 5mm OD PFA tubing.<BR /> <br />
Remove the first 2mm of thread from the end of the bolt. A bench grinder, angle grinder or file can be used for this.<br />
The head of the bolt is then shaped to a cone shape, leaving a flat of about 1mm diameter. This can be done by gripping the bolt in a drill and spinning it while removing material with an angle grinder, bench grinder or a belt sander. You could also use a lathe if you have access to one. Finish it off with a bit of wet and dry sand paper to give it a nice appearance.<BR /><br />
The last step is to drill the orifice. Drill a 0.35mm to 0.5mm hole as you prefer in the center of the flat area on the tip of the bolt. This can be done in a drill press with care. Carbide PCB drills are easier to use than HSS jobber drills. They have a 1/8" diameter body. The jobber drills are usually too small for a standard drill chuck to grip. Use the highest speed your drill press is capable of and take lots of small pecks at the hole until it breaks through.<br />
===Aluminium Block===<br />
The aluminium block is easier to make. You need a block about 20 x 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2". There are a few ways to get this. Buy 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 1/2" solid bar and cut a short length from that. 20 mm or 3/4" square bar could also be used. Or you could get some 12 mm plate and cut out a 20 mm square.<BR /><br />
Clean it up and square it with a file then mark out the three holes as per the drawing. Positioning is not critical.<BR /><br />
Tap an M8 thread into the largest hole. Take care to get the thread started square to the hole. It is best to use a taper tap for this.<BR /><br />
If you have a 6mm reamer available then drill the 6 mm hole under size and use the reamer to finish it, otherwise just drill it 5.5 mm and then drill again to 6mm.<br />
===PEEK Insulator===<br />
The last part is the plastic insulator. Drill and tap as per the drawing. For the M8 thread you should start the thread using a taper tap to ensure it is square and then use a plug tap to finish the thread to the required depth.<BR /><br />
Use a hacksaw and a file to cut the groove mount slots near the top.<br />
==Other Components==<br />
===Heater Cartridge===<br />
The heater cartridge used for the prototype is 6mm diameter and 20mm long and provides 25W at 12V. You can also buy 6 x 23 mm 40 W cartridges through e-bay. You will need to make some changes to dimensions if you use the longer heater cartridge. It is important that the brass nozzle bottoms out in the tapped hole of the PEEK insulator and that the PFA tube is the right length for the cavity.<BR /><br />
If you want to use a wire wound resistor for the heater you can. Just adjust the 6mm hole size to suit your resistor.<BR /><br />
When mounting the heater cartridge the prototype did not require any heat sink paste or glue. With a close fitting hole and a heater cartridge there is plenty of heat transfer. If you are using a wire wound resistor then some fire cement or exhaust gasket cement would be a good idea. Also worth considering is Loctite 5920 CopperMaxx. This is a hi-temp silicone sealant that withstands 316°C and contains copper particles.<br />
===Teflon or PFA tubing===<br />
The short length of Teflon or PFA tubing is important it has a low coefficient of friction and ensures the filament can't swell up and jamb if it softens before it enters the barrel.<BR /><br />
The prototype used PFA tubing. PFA has much the same properties as Teflon but is transparent and not quite as soft.<br />
===Insulation===<br />
The heater block will benefit from being insulated, particularly if you have cooling fans directed at it. The prototype was wrapped with 2 layers of red silicone foam rubber sheet, held in place with a strip of Kapton tape.<BR /><br />
The glass fibre sheet that has been used on other designs of hot end would also be good. With a 25W heater the hot end maintained 200°C with about 60% on time. The heat up time was only a few minutes. If a fan was blowing on the hot end then the heat up time was too long.<br />
==Assembly==<br />
#Screw the brass bolt into the aluminium block<br />
#Do it up nice and tight<br />
#Insert the PFA tube into the PEEK insulator<br />
#Insert the heater cartridge into the aluminium block<br />
#Screw the insulator onto the end of the brass bolt<br />
#insert the thermistor bead into the aluminium block<br />
#Wrap a strip of Kapton tape around the PEEK insulator and the wires to hold the thermistor and heater in place.<br />
==Drawings==<br />
Drawings of all components:[[File:KISS Hot End.PDF]]<br />
==Variations==<br />
===Bowden Hot End===<br />
If you want a bowden type hot end then make a tapped hole at the top end of the PEEK insulator. M5, 1/8"BSPT or NPT thread depending on your choice of pneumatic fitting.<BR /><br />
For 3mm filament the bowden tube should be 3mm ID/5mm OD. IMI Norgren manufacture fittings for 5mm tube that work. They require a 1/8 BSPT thread. Norgren P/N101250518.<BR /><br />
For 1.75mm filament the bowden tube should be 2mm ID/4mm OD. Norgren P/N 101250418 is 4mm to 1/8BSPT push fit.<br />
==Known Issues==<br />
If you use this with a PLA extruder body then you need a cooling fan blowing across the PEEK insulator. Without it the heat transferred through the PEEK will eventually get the extruder body hot enough to get a bit soft. A small amount of airflow is required to prevent this. The prototype had a small 40mm video card fan running at 30% and ran without issues.<br />
==Sources of Supply==<br />
===Heater Cartridges===<br />
[http://www.makershop.co.nz/heater-6x20-25W www.makershop.co.nz]<BR /><br />
[http://stores.ebay.com/reprapdiscount reprapdiscount]<br />
===Teflon/PFA Tube===<br />
[http://www.makershop.co.nz/PFA_4-2MM www.makershop.co.nz]<BR /><br />
[http://www.mcmaster.com/#pfa-tubing www.mcmaster.com]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=KISS_Hot_End&diff=78353KISS Hot End2013-01-17T11:45:44Z<p>MikeP-NZ: fixed hyperlinks</p>
<hr />
<div>For those unfamiliar with the acronym KISS it stands for "Keep It Simple Sir" (or words to that effect). This version is an attempt to design a hot end that performs well and is still quick and easy to fabricate.<br />
<br />
Key aspects of the hot end are:<br />
*Minimal part count<br />
*Can be fabricated without the need for a lathe or milling machine.<br />
*If you do use a lathe then you don't need to use advanced techniques like 4-jaw chucks and turning external threads.<br />
*Eliminate joints that can leak plastic<br />
*Easy to clean out blockages.<br />
*Easy to dis-assemble to swap for a different sized orifice.<br />
<br />
The design uses an off the shelf brass M8x30mm hex head bolt to form the extruder barrel and nozzle.<br />
This brass bolt is threaded through a simple aluminium block that carries a heater cartridge and a thermistor.<br />
A PEEK insulator prevents too much heat from being transferred to the extruder body.<br />
[[File:KISS Hot End Parts.JPG|thumb|right|400px|All the parts of a KISS hot end except the PFA tube- The PEEK insulator and Brass nozzle designs have changed slightly since this photo.]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end bottom view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Bottom View]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Top View]]<br />
==Fabricated Components==<br />
===Brass Bolt===<br />
The M8x30 brass bolt is modified by drilling down the center towards the head at 3.2mm or 2mm depending on the filament size you intend to use.<BR /><br />
Drill to within about 0.5mm of the bolt head. This can be done in a drill press. You could probably even do it with a hand held drill if you were careful.<BR /><br />
Next drill the hole out to the same size as the OD of the Teflon/PFA tube and to a depth of 5mm. This should be about 5.2mm for 5mm OD PFA tubing.<BR /> <br />
Remove the first 2mm of thread from the end of the bolt. A bench grinder, angle grinder or file can be used for this.<br />
The head of the bolt is then shaped to a cone shape, leaving a flat of about 1mm diameter. This can be done by gripping the bolt in a drill and spinning it while removing material with an angle grinder, bench grinder or a belt sander. You could also use a lathe if you have access to one. Finish it off with a bit of wet and dry sand paper to give it a nice appearance.<BR /><br />
The last step is to drill the orifice. Drill a 0.35mm to 0.5mm hole as you prefer in the center of the flat area on the tip of the bolt. This can be done in a drill press with care. Carbide PCB drills are easier to use than HSS jobber drills. They have a 1/8" diameter body. The jobber drills are usually too small for a standard drill chuck to grip. Use the highest speed your drill press is capable of and take lots of small pecks at the hole until it breaks through.<br />
===Aluminium Block===<br />
The aluminium block is easier to make. You need a block about 20 x 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2". There are a few ways to get this. Buy 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 1/2" solid bar and cut a short length from that. 20 mm or 3/4" square bar could also be used. Or you could get some 12 mm plate and cut out a 20 mm square.<BR /><br />
Clean it up and square it with a file then mark out the three holes as per the drawing. Positioning is not critical.<BR /><br />
Tap an M8 thread into the largest hole. Take care to get the thread started square to the hole. It is best to use a taper tap for this.<BR /><br />
If you have a 6mm reamer available then drill the 6 mm hole under size and use the reamer to finish it, otherwise just drill it 5.5 mm and then drill again to 6mm.<br />
===PEEK Insulator===<br />
The last part is the plastic insulator. Drill and tap as per the drawing. For the M8 thread you should start the thread using a taper tap to ensure it is square and then use a plug tap to finish the thread to the required depth.<BR /><br />
Use a hacksaw and a file to cut the groove mount slots near the top.<br />
==Other Components==<br />
===Heater Cartridge===<br />
The heater cartridge used for the prototype is 6mm diameter and 20mm long and provides 25W at 12V. You can also buy 6 x 23 mm 40 W cartridges through e-bay. You will need to make some changes to dimensions if you use the longer heater cartridge. It is important that the brass nozzle bottoms out in the tapped hole of the PEEK insulator and that the PFA tube is the right length for the cavity.<BR /><br />
If you want to use a wire wound resistor for the heater you can. Just adjust the 6mm hole size to suit your resistor.<BR /><br />
When mounting the heater cartridge the prototype did not require any heat sink paste or glue. With a close fitting hole and a heater cartridge there is plenty of heat transfer. If you are using a wire wound resistor then some fire cement or exhaust gasket cement would be a good idea. Also worth considering is Loctite 5920 CopperMaxx. This is a hi-temp silicone sealant that withstands 316°C and contains copper particles.<br />
===Teflon or PFA tubing===<br />
The short length of Teflon or PFA tubing is important it has a low coefficient of friction and ensures the filament can't swell up and jamb if it softens before it enters the barrel.<BR /><br />
The prototype used PFA tubing. PFA has much the same properties as Teflon but is transparent and not quite as soft.<br />
===Insulation===<br />
The heater block will benefit from being insulated, particularly if you have cooling fans directed at it. The prototype was wrapped with 2 layers of red silicone foam rubber sheet, held in place with a strip of Kapton tape.<BR /><br />
The glass fibre sheet that has been used on other designs of hot end would also be good. With a 25W heater the hot end maintained 200°C with about 60% on time. The heat up time was only a few minutes. If a fan was blowing on the hot end then the heat up time was too long.<br />
==Assembly==<br />
#Screw the brass bolt into the aluminium block<br />
#Do it up nice and tight<br />
#Insert the PFA tube into the PEEK insulator<br />
#Insert the heater cartridge into the aluminium block<br />
#Screw the insulator onto the end of the brass bolt<br />
#insert the thermistor bead into the aluminium block<br />
#Wrap a strip of Kapton tape around the PEEK insulator and the wires to hold the thermistor and heater in place.<br />
==Drawings==<br />
Drawings of all components:[[File:KISS Hot End.PDF]]<br />
==Variations==<br />
===Bowden Hot End===<br />
If you want a bowden type hot end then make a tapped hole at the top end of the PEEK insulator. M5, 1/8"BSPT or NPT thread depending on your choice of pneumatic fitting.<BR /><br />
For 3mm filament the bowden tube should be 3mm ID/5mm OD. IMI Norgren manufacture fittings for 5mm tube that work. They require a 1/8 BSPT thread. Norgren P/N101250518.<BR /><br />
For 1.75mm filament the bowden tube should be 2mm ID/4mm OD. Norgren P/N 101250418 is 4mm to 1/8BSPT push fit.<br />
==Known Issues==<br />
If you use this with a PLA extruder body then you need a cooling fan blowing across the PEEK insulator. Without it the heat transferred through the PEEK will eventually get the extruder body hot enough to get a bit soft. A small amount of airflow is required to prevent this. The prototype had a small 40mm video card fan running at 30% and ran without issues.<br />
==Sources of Supply==<br />
===Heater Cartridges===<br />
[http://www.makershop.co.nz/heater-6x20-25W www.makershop.co.nz]<BR /><br />
[http://stores.ebay.com/reprapdiscount reprapdiscount]<br />
===Teflon/PFA Tube===<br />
[http://www.makershop.co.nz/PFA_4-2MM www.makershop.co.nz]<BR /><br />
[http://www.mcmaster.com/#pfa-tubing www.mcmaster.com]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=KISS_Hot_End&diff=78352KISS Hot End2013-01-17T11:43:00Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Updated to match revA-02 design, added suppliers section</p>
<hr />
<div>For those unfamiliar with the acronym KISS it stands for "Keep It Simple Sir" (or words to that effect). This version is an attempt to design a hot end that performs well and is still quick and easy to fabricate.<br />
<br />
Key aspects of the hot end are:<br />
*Minimal part count<br />
*Can be fabricated without the need for a lathe or milling machine.<br />
*If you do use a lathe then you don't need to use advanced techniques like 4-jaw chucks and turning external threads.<br />
*Eliminate joints that can leak plastic<br />
*Easy to clean out blockages.<br />
*Easy to dis-assemble to swap for a different sized orifice.<br />
<br />
The design uses an off the shelf brass M8x30mm hex head bolt to form the extruder barrel and nozzle.<br />
This brass bolt is threaded through a simple aluminium block that carries a heater cartridge and a thermistor.<br />
A PEEK insulator prevents too much heat from being transferred to the extruder body.<br />
[[File:KISS Hot End Parts.JPG|thumb|right|400px|All the parts of a KISS hot end except the PFA tube- The PEEK insulator and Brass nozzle designs have changed slightly since this photo.]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end bottom view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Bottom View]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Top View]]<br />
==Fabricated Components==<br />
===Brass Bolt===<br />
The M8x30 brass bolt is modified by drilling down the center towards the head at 3.2mm or 2mm depending on the filament size you intend to use.<BR /><br />
Drill to within about 0.5mm of the bolt head. This can be done in a drill press. You could probably even do it with a hand held drill if you were careful.<BR /><br />
Next drill the hole out to the same size as the OD of the Teflon/PFA tube and to a depth of 5mm. This should be about 5.2mm for 5mm OD PFA tubing.<BR /> <br />
Remove the first 2mm of thread from the end of the bolt. A bench grinder, angle grinder or file can be used for this.<br />
The head of the bolt is then shaped to a cone shape, leaving a flat of about 1mm diameter. This can be done by gripping the bolt in a drill and spinning it while removing material with an angle grinder, bench grinder or a belt sander. You could also use a lathe if you have access to one. Finish it off with a bit of wet and dry sand paper to give it a nice appearance.<BR /><br />
The last step is to drill the orifice. Drill a 0.35mm to 0.5mm hole as you prefer in the center of the flat area on the tip of the bolt. This can be done in a drill press with care. Carbide PCB drills are easier to use than HSS jobber drills. They have a 1/8" diameter body. The jobber drills are usually too small for a standard drill chuck to grip. Use the highest speed your drill press is capable of and take lots of small pecks at the hole until it breaks through.<br />
===Aluminium Block===<br />
The aluminium block is easier to make. You need a block about 20 x 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2". There are a few ways to get this. Buy 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 1/2" solid bar and cut a short length from that. 20 mm or 3/4" square bar could also be used. Or you could get some 12 mm plate and cut out a 20 mm square.<BR /><br />
Clean it up and square it with a file then mark out the three holes as per the drawing. Positioning is not critical.<BR /><br />
Tap an M8 thread into the largest hole. Take care to get the thread started square to the hole. It is best to use a taper tap for this.<BR /><br />
If you have a 6mm reamer available then drill the 6 mm hole under size and use the reamer to finish it, otherwise just drill it 5.5 mm and then drill again to 6mm.<br />
===PEEK Insulator===<br />
The last part is the plastic insulator. Drill and tap as per the drawing. For the M8 thread you should start the thread using a taper tap to ensure it is square and then use a plug tap to finish the thread to the required depth.<BR /><br />
Use a hacksaw and a file to cut the groove mount slots near the top.<br />
==Other Components==<br />
===Heater Cartridge===<br />
The heater cartridge used for the prototype is 6mm diameter and 20mm long and provides 25W at 12V. You can also buy 6 x 23 mm 40 W cartridges through e-bay. You will need to make some changes to dimensions if you use the longer heater cartridge. It is important that the brass nozzle bottoms out in the tapped hole of the PEEK insulator and that the PFA tube is the right length for the cavity.<BR /><br />
If you want to use a wire wound resistor for the heater you can. Just adjust the 6mm hole size to suit your resistor.<BR /><br />
When mounting the heater cartridge the prototype did not require any heat sink paste or glue. With a close fitting hole and a heater cartridge there is plenty of heat transfer. If you are using a wire wound resistor then some fire cement or exhaust gasket cement would be a good idea. Also worth considering is Loctite 5920 CopperMaxx. This is a hi-temp silicone sealant that withstands 316°C and contains copper particles.<br />
===Teflon or PFA tubing===<br />
The short length of Teflon or PFA tubing is important it has a low coefficient of friction and ensures the filament can't swell up and jamb if it softens before it enters the barrel.<BR /><br />
The prototype used PFA tubing. PFA has much the same properties as Teflon but is transparent and not quite as soft.<br />
===Insulation===<br />
The heater block will benefit from being insulated, particularly if you have cooling fans directed at it. The prototype was wrapped with 2 layers of red silicone foam rubber sheet, held in place with a strip of Kapton tape.<BR /><br />
The glass fibre sheet that has been used on other designs of hot end would also be good. With a 25W heater the hot end maintained 200°C with about 60% on time. The heat up time was only a few minutes. If a fan was blowing on the hot end then the heat up time was too long.<br />
==Assembly==<br />
#Screw the brass bolt into the aluminium block<br />
#Do it up nice and tight<br />
#Insert the PFA tube into the PEEK insulator<br />
#Insert the heater cartridge into the aluminium block<br />
#Screw the insulator onto the end of the brass bolt<br />
#insert the thermistor bead into the aluminium block<br />
#Wrap a strip of Kapton tape around the PEEK insulator and the wires to hold the thermistor and heater in place.<br />
==Drawings==<br />
Drawings of all components:[[File:KISS Hot End.PDF]]<br />
==Variations==<br />
===Bowden Hot End===<br />
If you want a bowden type hot end then make a tapped hole at the top end of the PEEK insulator. M5, 1/8"BSPT or NPT thread depending on your choice of pneumatic fitting.<BR /><br />
For 3mm filament the bowden tube should be 3mm ID/5mm OD. IMI Norgren manufacture fittings for 5mm tube that work. They require a 1/8 BSPT thread. Norgren P/N101250518.<BR /><br />
For 1.75mm filament the bowden tube should be 2mm ID/4mm OD. Norgren P/N 101250418 is 4mm to 1/8BSPT push fit.<br />
==Known Issues==<br />
If you use this with a PLA extruder body then you need a cooling fan blowing across the PEEK insulator. Without it the heat transferred through the PEEK will eventually get the extruder body hot enough to get a bit soft. A small amount of airflow is required to prevent this. The prototype had a small 40mm video card fan running at 30% and ran without issues.<br />
==Sources of Supply==<br />
===Heater Cartridges===<br />
[http://www.makershop.co.nz/heater-6x20-25W]<br />
[http://stores.ebay.com/reprapdiscount]<br />
===Teflon/PFA Tube===<br />
[http://www.makershop.co.nz/PFA_4-2MM]<br />
[http://www.mcmaster.com/#pfa-tubing]</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:KISS_Hot_End.PDF&diff=78348File:KISS Hot End.PDF2013-01-17T10:16:36Z<p>MikeP-NZ: uploaded a new version of "File:KISS Hot End.PDF":&#32;Changes to design now rev A-02</p>
<hr />
<div>Drawings for KISS Hot End</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=KISS_Hot_End&diff=78347KISS Hot End2013-01-17T08:43:29Z<p>MikeP-NZ: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those unfamiliar with the acronym KISS it stands for "Keep It Simple Sir" (or words to that effect). This hot end is an attempt to design a hot end that performs well and is still quick and easy to fabricate.<br />
<br />
Key aspects of the hot end are:<br />
*Minimal part count<br />
*Can be fabricated without the need for a lathe or milling machine.<br />
*If you do use a lathe then you don't need to use advanced techniques like 4-jaw chucks and turning external threads.<br />
*Eliminate joints that can leak plastic<br />
*Easy to clean out blockages.<br />
*Easy to dis-assemble to swap for a different sized orifice.<br />
<br />
The basic concept uses an off the shelf brass M8x30mm hex head bolt to form the extruder barrel and nozzle.<br />
This brass bolt is threaded through a simple aluminium block that carries a heater cartridge and a thermistor.<br />
A PEEK insulator prevents too much heat from being transferred to the extruder body.<br />
[[File:KISS Hot End Parts.JPG|thumb|right|400px|All the parts of a KISS hot end except the PFA tube]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end bottom view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Bottom View]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Top View]]<br />
==Fabricated Components==<br />
===Brass Bolt===<br />
The M8x30 brass bolt is modified by drilling down the center towards the head at 3.2mm or 2mm depending on the filament size you intend to use.<BR /><br />
Drill to within about 0.5mm of the bolt head. This can be done in a drill press. You could probably even do it with a hand held drill if you were careful.<BR /><br />
The head of the bolt is then shaped to a cone shape, leaving a flat of about 1mm diameter. This can be done by gripping the bolt in a drill and spinning it while removing material with an angle grinder, bench grinder or a belt sander. You could also use a lathe if you have access to one. Finish it off with a bit of wet and dry sand paper to give it a nice appearance.<BR /><br />
The last step is to drill the orifice. Drill a 0.35mm to 0.5mm hole as you prefer in the center of the flat area on the tip of the bolt. This can be done in a drill press with care. Carbide PCB drills are easier to use than HSS jobber drills. They have a 1/8" diameter body. The jobber drills are usually too small for a standard drill chuck to grip. Use the highest speed your drill press is capable of and take lots of small pecks at the hole until it breaks through.<br />
===Aluminium Block===<br />
The aluminium block is easier to make. You need a block about 20 x 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2". The easiest way to get this is to buy 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 1/2" solid bar and cut a short length from that. 20 mm or 3/4" square bar could also be used.<BR /><br />
Clean it up and square it with a file then mark out the three holes as per the drawing. Positioning is not critical.<BR /><br />
Tap an M8 thread into the largest hole. Take care to get the thread started square to the hole. It is best to use a taper tap for this.<BR /><br />
If you have a 6mm reamer available then drill the 6mm hole under size and use the reamer to finish it.<br />
===PEEK Insulator===<br />
The last part is the plastic insulator. Drill and tap as per the drawing. For the M8 thread you should start the thread using a taper tap to ensure it is square and then use a plug tap to finish the thread to the required depth.<BR /><br />
Use a hacksaw and a file to cut the triangular shape on the bottom end and to cut the groove mount near the top.<br />
==Other Components==<br />
===Heater Cartridge===<br />
The heater cartridge used for the prototype is 6mm diameter and 20mm long and produces 25W at 12V. You can also buy 6 x 23 mm 40 W cartridges through e-bay. You should increase the size of the aluminium block to 22 mm if you use the longer heater cartridge.<BR /><br />
If you want to use a wire wound resistor for the heater you can. Just adjust the 6mm hole size to suit your resistor.<BR /><br />
When mounting the heater cartridge the prototype did not require any heat sink paste or glue. With a close fitting hole and a heater cartridge there is plenty of heat transfer. If you are using a wire wound resistor then some fire cement or exhaust gasket cement would be a good idea. Also worth considering is Loctite 5920 CopperMaxx. This is a hi-temp silicone sealant that withstands 316°C and contains copper particles.<br />
===Teflon or PFA tubing===<br />
The short length of Teflon or PFA tubing is important it has a low coefficient of friction and ensures the filament can't swell up and jamb if it softens before it enters the barrel.<BR /><br />
The prototype used PFA tubing. PFA has much the same properties as Teflon but is transparent and not quite as soft.<br />
===Insulation===<br />
The heater block will benefit from being insulated, particularly if you have cooling fans directed at it. The prototype was wrapped with 2 layers of red silicone foam rubber sheet, held in place with a strip of Kapton tape.<BR /><br />
The glass fibre sheet that has been used on other designs of hot end would also be good. With a 25W heater the hot end maintained 200°C with about 60% on time. The heat up time was only a few minutes. If a fan was blowing on the hot end then the heat up time was too long.<br />
==Assembly==<br />
#Screw the brass bolt into the aluminium block<br />
#Do it up nice and tight<br />
#Insert the PFA tube into the PEEK insulator<br />
#Insert the heater cartridge into the aluminium block<br />
#Screw the insulator onto the end of the brass bolt<br />
#insert the thermistor bead into the aluminium block<br />
#Wrap a strip of Kapton tape around the PEEK insulator and the wires to hold the thermistor and heater in place.<br />
==Drawings==<br />
Drawings of all components:[[File:KISS Hot End.PDF]]<br />
==Variations==<br />
===Bowden Hot End===<br />
If you want a bowden type hot end then make a tapped hole at the top end of the PEEK insulator. M5, 1/8"BSPT or NPT thread depending on your choice of pneumatic fitting.<BR /><br />
For 3mm filament the bowden tube should be 3mm ID/5mm OD. IMI Norgren manufacture fittings for 5mm tube that work. They require a 1/8 BSPT thread. Norgren P/N101250518.<BR /><br />
For 1.75mm filament the bowden tube should be 2mm ID/4mm OD. Norgren P/N 101250418 is 4mm to 1/8BSPT push fit.<br />
==Known Issues==<br />
If you use this with a PLA extruder body then you need a cooling fan blowing across the PEEK insulator. Without it the heat transferred through the PEEK will eventually get the extruder body hot enough to get a bit soft. A small amount of airflow is required to prevent this. The prototype had a small 40mm video card fan running at 30% and ran without issues.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=KISS_Hot_End&diff=78343KISS Hot End2013-01-17T05:27:41Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Added known issues</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development:Stub}}<br />
{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = KISS Hot End<br />
|status = Experimental<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = A simple hot end that can be made without access to machine tools<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = J_Head_Nozzle<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Hot End|Hot End]][[Category:Hot End]]<br />
|cadModel = <br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
For those unfamiliar with the acronym KISS it stands for "Keep It Simple Sir" (or words to that effect). This hot end is an attempt to design a hot end that performs well and is still quick and easy to fabricate.<br />
<br />
Key aspects of the hot end are:<br />
*Minimal part count<br />
*Can be fabricated without the need for a lathe or milling machine.<br />
*If you do use a lathe then you don't need to use advanced techniques like 4-jaw chucks and turning external threads.<br />
*Eliminate joints that can leak plastic<br />
*Easy to clean out blockages.<br />
*Easy to dis-assemble to swap for a different sized orifice.<br />
<br />
The basic concept uses an off the shelf brass M8x30mm hex head bolt to form the extruder barrel and nozzle.<br />
This brass bolt is threaded through a simple aluminium block that carries a heater cartridge and a thermistor.<br />
A PEEK insulator prevents too much heat from being transferred to the extruder body.<br />
[[File:KISS Hot End Parts.JPG|thumb|right|400px|All the parts of a KISS hot end except the PFA tube]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end bottom view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Bottom View]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Top View]]<br />
==Fabricated Components==<br />
===Brass Bolt===<br />
The M8x30 brass bolt is modified by drilling down the center towards the head at 3.2mm or 2mm depending on the filament size you intend to use.<BR /><br />
Drill to within about 0.5mm of the bolt head. This can be done in a drill press. You could probably even do it with a hand held drill if you were careful.<BR /><br />
The head of the bolt is then shaped to a cone shape, leaving a flat of about 1mm diameter. This can be done by gripping the bolt in a drill and spinning it while removing material with an angle grinder, bench grinder or a belt sander. You could also use a lathe if you have access to one. Finish it off with a bit of wet and dry sand paper to give it a nice appearance.<BR /><br />
The last step is to drill the orifice. Drill a 0.35mm to 0.5mm hole as you prefer in the center of the flat area on the tip of the bolt. This can be done in a drill press with care. Carbide PCB drills are easier to use than HSS jobber drills. They have a 1/8" diameter body. The jobber drills are usually too small for a standard drill chuck to grip. Use the highest speed your drill press is capable of and take lots of small pecks at the hole until it breaks through.<br />
===Aluminium Block===<br />
The aluminium block is easier to make. You need a block about 20 x 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2". The easiest way to get this is to buy 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 1/2" solid bar and cut a short length from that. 20 mm or 3/4" square bar could also be used.<BR /><br />
Clean it up and square it with a file then mark out the three holes as per the drawing. Positioning is not critical.<BR /><br />
Tap an M8 thread into the largest hole. Take care to get the thread started square to the hole. It is best to use a taper tap for this.<BR /><br />
If you have a 6mm reamer available then drill the 6mm hole under size and use the reamer to finish it.<br />
===PEEK Insulator===<br />
The last part is the plastic insulator. Drill and tap as per the drawing. For the M8 thread you should start the thread using a taper tap to ensure it is square and then use a plug tap to finish the thread to the required depth.<BR /><br />
Use a hacksaw and a file to cut the triangular shape on the bottom end and to cut the groove mount near the top.<br />
==Other Components==<br />
===Heater Cartridge===<br />
The heater cartridge used for the prototype is 6mm diameter and 20mm long and produces 25W at 12V. You can also buy 6 x 23 mm 40 W cartridges through e-bay. You should increase the size of the aluminium block to 22 mm if you use the longer heater cartridge.<BR /><br />
If you want to use a wire wound resistor for the heater you can. Just adjust the 6mm hole size to suit your resistor.<BR /><br />
When mounting the heater cartridge the prototype did not require any heat sink paste or glue. With a close fitting hole and a heater cartridge there is plenty of heat transfer. If you are using a wire wound resistor then some fire cement or exhaust gasket cement would be a good idea. Also worth considering is Loctite 5920 CopperMaxx. This is a hi-temp silicone sealant that withstands 316°C and contains copper particles.<br />
===Teflon or PFA tubing===<br />
The short length of Teflon or PFA tubing is important it has a low coefficient of friction and ensures the filament can't swell up and jamb if it softens before it enters the barrel.<BR /><br />
The prototype used PFA tubing. PFA has much the same properties as Teflon but is transparent and not quite as soft.<br />
===Insulation===<br />
The heater block will benefit from being insulated, particularly if you have cooling fans directed at it. The prototype was wrapped with 2 layers of red silicone foam rubber sheet, held in place with a strip of Kapton tape.<BR /><br />
The glass fibre sheet that has been used on other designs of hot end would also be good. With a 25W heater the hot end maintained 200°C with about 60% on time. The heat up time was only a few minutes. If a fan was blowing on the hot end then the heat up time was too long.<br />
==Assembly==<br />
#Screw the brass bolt into the aluminium block<br />
#Do it up nice and tight<br />
#Insert the PFA tube into the PEEK insulator<br />
#Insert the heater cartridge into the aluminium block<br />
#Screw the insulator onto the end of the brass bolt<br />
#insert the thermistor bead into the aluminium block<br />
#Wrap a strip of Kapton tape around the PEEK insulator and the wires to hold the thermistor and heater in place.<br />
==Drawings==<br />
Drawings of all components:[[File:KISS Hot End.PDF]]<br />
==Variations==<br />
===Bowden Hot End===<br />
If you want a bowden type hot end then make a tapped hole at the top end of the PEEK insulator. M5, 1/8"BSPT or NPT thread depending on your choice of pneumatic fitting.<BR /><br />
For 3mm filament the bowden tube should be 3mm ID/5mm OD. IMI Norgren manufacture fittings for 5mm tube that work. They require a 1/8 BSPT thread. Norgren P/N101250518.<BR /><br />
For 1.75mm filament the bowden tube should be 2mm ID/4mm OD. Norgren P/N 101250418 is 4mm to 1/8BSPT push fit.<br />
==Known Issues==<br />
If you use this with a PLA extruder body then you need a cooling fan blowing across the PEEK insulator. Without it the heat transferred through the PEEK will eventually get the extruder body hot enough to get a bit soft. A small amount of airflow is required to prevent this. The prototype had a small 40mm video card fan running at 30% and ran without issues.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=KISS_Hot_End&diff=78342KISS Hot End2013-01-17T05:20:28Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Edit Development template</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development:Stub}}<br />
{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = KISS Hot End<br />
|status = Experimental<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = A simple hot end that can be made without access to machine tools<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = MikeP-NZ<br />
|reprap = J_Head_Nozzle<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Hot End|Hot End]][[Category:Hot End]]<br />
|cadModel = <br />
|url =<br />
}}<br />
For those unfamiliar with the acronym KISS it stands for "Keep It Simple Sir" (or words to that effect). This hot end is an attempt to design a hot end that performs well and is still quick and easy to fabricate.<br />
<br />
Key aspects of the hot end are:<br />
*Minimal part count<br />
*Can be fabricated without the need for a lathe or milling machine.<br />
*If you do use a lathe then you don't need to use advanced techniques like 4-jaw chucks and turning external threads.<br />
*Eliminate joints that can leak plastic<br />
*Easy to clean out blockages.<br />
*Easy to dis-assemble to swap for a different sized orifice.<br />
<br />
The basic concept uses an off the shelf brass M8x30mm hex head bolt to form the extruder barrel and nozzle.<br />
This brass bolt is threaded through a simple aluminium block that carries a heater cartridge and a thermistor.<br />
A PEEK insulator prevents too much heat from being transferred to the extruder body.<br />
[[File:KISS Hot End Parts.JPG|thumb|right|400px|All the parts of a KISS hot end except the PFA tube]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end bottom view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Bottom View]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Top View]]<br />
==Fabricated Components==<br />
===Brass Bolt===<br />
The M8x30 brass bolt is modified by drilling down the center towards the head at 3.2mm or 2mm depending on the filament size you intend to use.<BR /><br />
Drill to within about 0.5mm of the bolt head. This can be done in a drill press. You could probably even do it with a hand held drill if you were careful.<BR /><br />
The head of the bolt is then shaped to a cone shape, leaving a flat of about 1mm diameter. This can be done by gripping the bolt in a drill and spinning it while removing material with an angle grinder, bench grinder or a belt sander. You could also use a lathe if you have access to one. Finish it off with a bit of wet and dry sand paper to give it a nice appearance.<BR /><br />
The last step is to drill the orifice. Drill a 0.35mm to 0.5mm hole as you prefer in the center of the flat area on the tip of the bolt. This can be done in a drill press with care. Carbide PCB drills are easier to use than HSS jobber drills. They have a 1/8" diameter body. The jobber drills are usually too small for a standard drill chuck to grip. Use the highest speed your drill press is capable of and take lots of small pecks at the hole until it breaks through.<br />
===Aluminium Block===<br />
The aluminium block is easier to make. You need a block about 20 x 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2". The easiest way to get this is to buy 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 1/2" solid bar and cut a short length from that. 20 mm or 3/4" square bar could also be used.<BR /><br />
Clean it up and square it with a file then mark out the three holes as per the drawing. Positioning is not critical.<BR /><br />
Tap an M8 thread into the largest hole. Take care to get the thread started square to the hole. It is best to use a taper tap for this.<BR /><br />
If you have a 6mm reamer available then drill the 6mm hole under size and use the reamer to finish it.<br />
===PEEK Insulator===<br />
The last part is the plastic insulator. Drill and tap as per the drawing. For the M8 thread you should start the thread using a taper tap to ensure it is square and then use a plug tap to finish the thread to the required depth.<BR /><br />
Use a hacksaw and a file to cut the triangular shape on the bottom end and to cut the groove mount near the top.<br />
==Other Components==<br />
===Heater Cartridge===<br />
The heater cartridge used for the prototype is 6mm diameter and 20mm long and produces 25W at 12V. You can also buy 6 x 23 mm 40 W cartridges through e-bay. You should increase the size of the aluminium block to 22 mm if you use the longer heater cartridge.<BR /><br />
If you want to use a wire wound resistor for the heater you can. Just adjust the 6mm hole size to suit your resistor.<BR /><br />
When mounting the heater cartridge the prototype did not require any heat sink paste or glue. With a close fitting hole and a heater cartridge there is plenty of heat transfer. If you are using a wire wound resistor then some fire cement or exhaust gasket cement would be a good idea. Also worth considering is Loctite 5920 CopperMaxx. This is a hi-temp silicone sealant that withstands 316°C and contains copper particles.<br />
===Teflon or PFA tubing===<br />
The short length of Teflon or PFA tubing is important it has a low coefficient of friction and ensures the filament can't swell up and jamb if it softens before it enters the barrel.<BR /><br />
The prototype used PFA tubing. PFA has much the same properties as Teflon but is transparent and not quite as soft.<br />
===Insulation===<br />
The heater block will benefit from being insulated, particularly if you have cooling fans directed at it. The prototype was wrapped with 2 layers of red silicone foam rubber sheet, held in place with a strip of Kapton tape.<BR /><br />
The glass fibre sheet that has been used on other designs of hot end would also be good. With a 25W heater the hot end maintained 200°C with about 60% on time. The heat up time was only a few minutes. If a fan was blowing on the hot end then the heat up time was too long.<br />
==Assembly==<br />
#Screw the brass bolt into the aluminium block<br />
#Do it up nice and tight<br />
#Insert the PFA tube into the PEEK insulator<br />
#Insert the heater cartridge into the aluminium block<br />
#Screw the insulator onto the end of the brass bolt<br />
#insert the thermistor bead into the aluminium block<br />
#Wrap a strip of Kapton tape around the PEEK insulator and the wires to hold the thermistor and heater in place.<br />
==Drawings==<br />
Drawings of all components:[[File:KISS Hot End.PDF]]<br />
==Variations==<br />
===Bowden Hot End===<br />
If you want a bowden type hot end then make a tapped hole at the top end of the PEEK insulator. M5, 1/8"BSPT or NPT thread depending on your choice of pneumatic fitting.<BR /><br />
For 3mm filament the bowden tube should be 3mm ID/5mm OD. IMI Norgren manufacture fittings for 5mm tube that work. They require a 1/8 BSPT thread. Norgren P/N101250518.<BR /><br />
For 1.75mm filament the bowden tube should be 2mm ID/4mm OD. Norgren P/N 101250418 is 4mm to 1/8BSPT push fit.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=KISS_Hot_End&diff=78341KISS Hot End2013-01-17T04:54:20Z<p>MikeP-NZ: added development stub</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development:Stub}}<br />
{{Development}}<br />
For those unfamiliar with the acronym KISS it stands for "Keep It Simple Sir" (or words to that effect). This hot end is an attempt to design a hot end that performs well and is still quick and easy to fabricate.<br />
<br />
Key aspects of the hot end are:<br />
*Minimal part count<br />
*Can be fabricated without the need for a lathe or milling machine.<br />
*If you do use a lathe then you don't need to use advanced techniques like 4-jaw chucks and turning external threads.<br />
*Eliminate joints that can leak plastic<br />
*Easy to clean out blockages.<br />
*Easy to dis-assemble to swap for a different sized orifice.<br />
<br />
The basic concept uses an off the shelf brass M8x30mm hex head bolt to form the extruder barrel and nozzle.<br />
This brass bolt is threaded through a simple aluminium block that carries a heater cartridge and a thermistor.<br />
A PEEK insulator prevents too much heat from being transferred to the extruder body.<br />
[[File:KISS Hot End Parts.JPG|thumb|right|400px|All the parts of a KISS hot end except the PFA tube]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end bottom view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Bottom View]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Top View]]<br />
==Fabricated Components==<br />
===Brass Bolt===<br />
The M8x30 brass bolt is modified by drilling down the center towards the head at 3.2mm or 2mm depending on the filament size you intend to use.<BR /><br />
Drill to within about 0.5mm of the bolt head. This can be done in a drill press. You could probably even do it with a hand held drill if you were careful.<BR /><br />
The head of the bolt is then shaped to a cone shape, leaving a flat of about 1mm diameter. This can be done by gripping the bolt in a drill and spinning it while removing material with an angle grinder, bench grinder or a belt sander. You could also use a lathe if you have access to one. Finish it off with a bit of wet and dry sand paper to give it a nice appearance.<BR /><br />
The last step is to drill the orifice. Drill a 0.35mm to 0.5mm hole as you prefer in the center of the flat area on the tip of the bolt. This can be done in a drill press with care. Carbide PCB drills are easier to use than HSS jobber drills. They have a 1/8" diameter body. The jobber drills are usually too small for a standard drill chuck to grip. Use the highest speed your drill press is capable of and take lots of small pecks at the hole until it breaks through.<br />
===Aluminium Block===<br />
The aluminium block is easier to make. You need a block about 20 x 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2". The easiest way to get this is to buy 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 1/2" solid bar and cut a short length from that. 20 mm or 3/4" square bar could also be used.<BR /><br />
Clean it up and square it with a file then mark out the three holes as per the drawing. Positioning is not critical.<BR /><br />
Tap an M8 thread into the largest hole. Take care to get the thread started square to the hole. It is best to use a taper tap for this.<BR /><br />
If you have a 6mm reamer available then drill the 6mm hole under size and use the reamer to finish it.<br />
===PEEK Insulator===<br />
The last part is the plastic insulator. Drill and tap as per the drawing. For the M8 thread you should start the thread using a taper tap to ensure it is square and then use a plug tap to finish the thread to the required depth.<BR /><br />
Use a hacksaw and a file to cut the triangular shape on the bottom end and to cut the groove mount near the top.<br />
==Other Components==<br />
===Heater Cartridge===<br />
The heater cartridge used for the prototype is 6mm diameter and 20mm long and produces 25W at 12V. You can also buy 6 x 23 mm 40 W cartridges through e-bay. You should increase the size of the aluminium block to 22 mm if you use the longer heater cartridge.<BR /><br />
If you want to use a wire wound resistor for the heater you can. Just adjust the 6mm hole size to suit your resistor.<BR /><br />
When mounting the heater cartridge the prototype did not require any heat sink paste or glue. With a close fitting hole and a heater cartridge there is plenty of heat transfer. If you are using a wire wound resistor then some fire cement or exhaust gasket cement would be a good idea. Also worth considering is Loctite 5920 CopperMaxx. This is a hi-temp silicone sealant that withstands 316°C and contains copper particles.<br />
===Teflon or PFA tubing===<br />
The short length of Teflon or PFA tubing is important it has a low coefficient of friction and ensures the filament can't swell up and jamb if it softens before it enters the barrel.<BR /><br />
The prototype used PFA tubing. PFA has much the same properties as Teflon but is transparent and not quite as soft.<br />
===Insulation===<br />
The heater block will benefit from being insulated, particularly if you have cooling fans directed at it. The prototype was wrapped with 2 layers of red silicone foam rubber sheet, held in place with a strip of Kapton tape.<BR /><br />
The glass fibre sheet that has been used on other designs of hot end would also be good. With a 25W heater the hot end maintained 200°C with about 60% on time. The heat up time was only a few minutes. If a fan was blowing on the hot end then the heat up time was too long.<br />
==Assembly==<br />
#Screw the brass bolt into the aluminium block<br />
#Do it up nice and tight<br />
#Insert the PFA tube into the PEEK insulator<br />
#Insert the heater cartridge into the aluminium block<br />
#Screw the insulator onto the end of the brass bolt<br />
#insert the thermistor bead into the aluminium block<br />
#Wrap a strip of Kapton tape around the PEEK insulator and the wires to hold the thermistor and heater in place.<br />
==Drawings==<br />
Drawings of all components:[[File:KISS Hot End.PDF]]<br />
==Variations==<br />
===Bowden Hot End===<br />
If you want a bowden type hot end then make a tapped hole at the top end of the PEEK insulator. M5, 1/8"BSPT or NPT thread depending on your choice of pneumatic fitting.<BR /><br />
For 3mm filament the bowden tube should be 3mm ID/5mm OD. IMI Norgren manufacture fittings for 5mm tube that work. They require a 1/8 BSPT thread. Norgren P/N101250518.<BR /><br />
For 1.75mm filament the bowden tube should be 2mm ID/4mm OD. Norgren P/N 101250418 is 4mm to 1/8BSPT push fit.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=KISS_Hot_End&diff=78335KISS Hot End2013-01-17T04:19:08Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Added Pictures</p>
<hr />
<div>For those unfamiliar with the acronym KISS it stands for "Keep It Simple Sir" (or words to that effect). This hot end is an attempt to design a hot end that performs well and is still quick and easy to fabricate.<br />
<br />
Key aspects of the hot end are:<br />
*Minimal part count<br />
*Can be fabricated without the need for a lathe or milling machine.<br />
*If you do use a lathe then you don't need to use advanced techniques like 4-jaw chucks and turning external threads.<br />
*Eliminate joints that can leak plastic<br />
*Easy to clean out blockages.<br />
*Easy to dis-assemble to swap for a different sized orifice.<br />
<br />
The basic concept uses an off the shelf brass M8x30mm hex head bolt to form the extruder barrel and nozzle.<br />
This brass bolt is threaded through a simple aluminium block that carries a heater cartridge and a thermistor.<br />
A PEEK insulator prevents too much heat from being transferred to the extruder body.<br />
[[File:KISS Hot End Parts.JPG|thumb|right|400px|All the parts of a KISS hot end except the PFA tube]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end bottom view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Bottom View]]<br />
[[File:KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG|right|400px|thumb|Assembled Top View]]<br />
==Fabricated Components==<br />
===Brass Bolt===<br />
The M8x30 brass bolt is modified by drilling down the center towards the head at 3.2mm or 2mm depending on the filament size you intend to use.<BR /><br />
Drill to within about 0.5mm of the bolt head. This can be done in a drill press. You could probably even do it with a hand held drill if you were careful.<BR /><br />
The head of the bolt is then shaped to a cone shape, leaving a flat of about 1mm diameter. This can be done by gripping the bolt in a drill and spinning it while removing material with an angle grinder, bench grinder or a belt sander. You could also use a lathe if you have access to one. Finish it off with a bit of wet and dry sand paper to give it a nice appearance.<BR /><br />
The last step is to drill the orifice. Drill a 0.35mm to 0.5mm hole as you prefer in the center of the flat area on the tip of the bolt. This can be done in a drill press with care. Carbide PCB drills are easier to use than HSS jobber drills. They have a 1/8" diameter body. The jobber drills are usually too small for a standard drill chuck to grip. Use the highest speed your drill press is capable of and take lots of small pecks at the hole until it breaks through.<br />
===Aluminium Block===<br />
The aluminium block is easier to make. You need a block about 20 x 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2". The easiest way to get this is to buy 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 1/2" solid bar and cut a short length from that. 20 mm or 3/4" square bar could also be used.<BR /><br />
Clean it up and square it with a file then mark out the three holes as per the drawing. Positioning is not critical.<BR /><br />
Tap an M8 thread into the largest hole. Take care to get the thread started square to the hole. It is best to use a taper tap for this.<BR /><br />
If you have a 6mm reamer available then drill the 6mm hole under size and use the reamer to finish it.<br />
===PEEK Insulator===<br />
The last part is the plastic insulator. Drill and tap as per the drawing. For the M8 thread you should start the thread using a taper tap to ensure it is square and then use a plug tap to finish the thread to the required depth.<BR /><br />
Use a hacksaw and a file to cut the triangular shape on the bottom end and to cut the groove mount near the top.<br />
==Other Components==<br />
===Heater Cartridge===<br />
The heater cartridge used for the prototype is 6mm diameter and 20mm long and produces 25W at 12V. You can also buy 6 x 23 mm 40 W cartridges through e-bay. You should increase the size of the aluminium block to 22 mm if you use the longer heater cartridge.<BR /><br />
If you want to use a wire wound resistor for the heater you can. Just adjust the 6mm hole size to suit your resistor.<BR /><br />
When mounting the heater cartridge the prototype did not require any heat sink paste or glue. With a close fitting hole and a heater cartridge there is plenty of heat transfer. If you are using a wire wound resistor then some fire cement or exhaust gasket cement would be a good idea. Also worth considering is Loctite 5920 CopperMaxx. This is a hi-temp silicone sealant that withstands 316°C and contains copper particles.<br />
===Teflon or PFA tubing===<br />
The short length of Teflon or PFA tubing is important it has a low coefficient of friction and ensures the filament can't swell up and jamb if it softens before it enters the barrel.<BR /><br />
The prototype used PFA tubing. PFA has much the same properties as Teflon but is transparent and not quite as soft.<br />
===Insulation===<br />
The heater block will benefit from being insulated, particularly if you have cooling fans directed at it. The prototype was wrapped with 2 layers of red silicone foam rubber sheet, held in place with a strip of Kapton tape.<BR /><br />
The glass fibre sheet that has been used on other designs of hot end would also be good. With a 25W heater the hot end maintained 200°C with about 60% on time. The heat up time was only a few minutes. If a fan was blowing on the hot end then the heat up time was too long.<br />
==Assembly==<br />
#Screw the brass bolt into the aluminium block<br />
#Do it up nice and tight<br />
#Insert the PFA tube into the PEEK insulator<br />
#Insert the heater cartridge into the aluminium block<br />
#Screw the insulator onto the end of the brass bolt<br />
#insert the thermistor bead into the aluminium block<br />
#Wrap a strip of Kapton tape around the PEEK insulator and the wires to hold the thermistor and heater in place.<br />
==Drawings==<br />
Drawings of all components:[[File:KISS Hot End.PDF]]<br />
==Variations==<br />
===Bowden Hot End===<br />
If you want a bowden type hot end then make a tapped hole at the top end of the PEEK insulator. M5, 1/8"BSPT or NPT thread depending on your choice of pneumatic fitting.<BR /><br />
For 3mm filament the bowden tube should be 3mm ID/5mm OD. IMI Norgren manufacture fittings for 5mm tube that work. They require a 1/8 BSPT thread. Norgren P/N101250518.<BR /><br />
For 1.75mm filament the bowden tube should be 2mm ID/4mm OD. Norgren P/N 101250418 is 4mm to 1/8BSPT push fit.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:KISS_hot_end_assembled_top_view.JPG&diff=78334File:KISS hot end assembled top view.JPG2013-01-17T04:16:36Z<p>MikeP-NZ: KISS hot end assembled without insulation</p>
<hr />
<div>KISS hot end assembled without insulation</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:KISS_hot_end_bottom_view.JPG&diff=78333File:KISS hot end bottom view.JPG2013-01-17T04:11:16Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Assembled KISS hot end bottom view</p>
<hr />
<div>Assembled KISS hot end bottom view</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:KISS_Hot_End_Parts.JPG&diff=78332File:KISS Hot End Parts.JPG2013-01-17T04:01:18Z<p>MikeP-NZ: These are all the parts that make up a KISS hot end except for the PFA tube and the Kapton tape.</p>
<hr />
<div>These are all the parts that make up a KISS hot end except for the PFA tube and the Kapton tape.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=KISS_Hot_End&diff=78326KISS Hot End2013-01-17T03:45:49Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Layout changes</p>
<hr />
<div>For those unfamiliar with the acronym KISS it stands for "Keep It Simple Sir" (or words to that effect). This hot end is an attempt to design a hot end that performs well and is still quick and easy to fabricate.<br />
<br />
Key aspects of the hot end are:<br />
*Minimal part count<br />
*Can be fabricated without the need for a lathe or milling machine.<br />
*If you do use a lathe then you don't need to use advanced techniques like 4-jaw chucks and turning external threads.<br />
*Eliminate joints that can leak plastic<br />
*Easy to clean out blockages.<br />
*Easy to dis-assemble to swap for a different sized orifice.<br />
<br />
The basic concept uses an off the shelf brass M8x30mm hex head bolt to form the extruder barrel and nozzle.<br />
This brass bolt is threaded through a simple aluminium block that carries a heater cartridge and a thermistor.<br />
A PEEK insulator prevents too much heat from being transferred to the extruder body.<br />
<br />
==Fabrication==<br />
===Brass Bolt===<br />
The M8x30 brass bolt is modified by drilling down the center towards the head at 3.2mm or 2mm depending on the filament size you intend to use.<BR /><br />
Drill to within about 0.5mm of the bolt head. This can be done in a drill press. You could probably even do it with a hand held drill if you were careful.<BR /><br />
The head of the bolt is then shaped to a cone shape, leaving a flat of about 1mm diameter. This can be done by gripping the bolt in a drill and spinning it while removing material with an angle grinder, bench grinder or a belt sander. You could also use a lathe if you have access to one. Finish it off with a bit of wet and dry sand paper to give it a nice appearance.<BR /><br />
The last step is to drill the orifice. Drill a 0.35mm to 0.5mm hole as you prefer in the center of the flat area on the tip of the bolt. This can be done in a drill press with care. Carbide PCB drills are easier to use than HSS jobber drills. They have a 1/8" diameter body. The jobber drills are usually too small for a standard drill chuck to grip. Use the highest speed your drill press is capable of and take lots of small pecks at the hole until it breaks through.<br />
===Aluminium Block===<br />
The aluminium block is easier to make. You need a block about 20 x 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2". The easiest way to get this is to buy 20 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 1/2" solid bar and cut a short length from that. 20 mm or 3/4" square bar could also be used.<BR /><br />
Clean it up and square it with a file then mark out the three holes as per the drawing. Positioning is not critical.<BR /><br />
Tap an M8 thread into the largest hole. Take care to get the thread started square to the hole. It is best to use a taper tap for this.<BR /><br />
If you have a 6mm reamer available then drill the 6mm hole under size and use the reamer to finish it.<br />
===PEEK Insulator===<br />
The last part is the plastic insulator. Drill and tap as per the drawing. For the M8 thread you should start the thread using a taper tap to ensure it is square and then use a plug tap to finish the thread to the required depth.<BR /><br />
Use a hacksaw and a file to cut the triangular shape on the bottom end and to cut the groove mount near the top.<br />
==Other Components==<br />
===Heater Cartridge===<br />
The heater cartridge used for the prototype is 6mm diameter and 20mm long and produces 25W at 12V. You can also buy 6 x 23 mm 40 W cartridges through e-bay. You should increase the size of the aluminium block to 22 mm if you use the longer heater cartridge.<BR /><br />
If you want to use a wire wound resistor for the heater you can. Just adjust the 6mm hole size to suit your resistor.<BR /><br />
When mounting the heater cartridge the prototype did not require any heat sink paste or glue. With a close fitting hole and a heater cartridge there is plenty of heat transfer. If you are using a wire wound resistor then some fire cement or exhaust gasket cement would be a good idea. Also worth considering is Loctite 5920 CopperMaxx. This is a hi-temp silicone sealant that withstands 316°C and contains copper particles.<br />
===Teflon or PFA tubing===<br />
The short length of Teflon or PFA tubing is important it has a low coefficient of friction and ensures the filament can't swell up and jamb if it softens before it enters the barrel.<BR /><br />
The prototype used PFA tubing. PFA has much the same properties as Teflon but is transparent and not quite as soft.<br />
===Insulation===<br />
The heater block will benefit from being insulated, particularly if you have cooling fans directed at it. The prototype was wrapped with 2 layers of red silicone foam rubber sheet, held in place with a strip of Kapton tape.<BR /><br />
The glass fibre sheet that has been used on other designs of hot end would also be good. With a 25W heater the hot end maintained 200°C with about 60% on time. The heat up time was only a few minutes. If a fan was blowing on the hot end then the heat up time was too long.<br />
==Assembly==<br />
#Screw the brass bolt into the aluminium block<br />
#Do it up nice and tight<br />
#Insert the PFA tube into the PEEK insulator<br />
#Insert the heater cartridge into the aluminium block<br />
#Screw the insulator onto the end of the brass bolt<br />
#insert the thermistor bead into the aluminium block<br />
#Wrap a strip of Kapton tape around the PEEK insulator and the wires to hold the thermistor and heater in place.<br />
==Drawings==<br />
Drawings of all components:[[File:KISS Hot End.PDF]]<br />
==Variations==<br />
===Bowden Hot End===<br />
If you want a bowden type hot end then make a tapped hole at the top end of the PEEK insulator. M5, 1/8"BSPT or NPT thread depending on your choice of pneumatic fitting.<BR /><br />
For 3mm filament the bowden tube should be 3mm ID/5mm OD. IMI Norgren manufacture fittings for 5mm tube that work. They require a 1/8 BSPT thread. Norgren P/N101250518.<BR /><br />
For 1.75mm filament the bowden tube should be 2mm ID/4mm OD. Norgren P/N 101250418 is 4mm to 1/8BSPT push fit.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=KISS_Hot_End&diff=78322KISS Hot End2013-01-17T02:49:30Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Initial entry</p>
<hr />
<div>This page is a placeholder for a new hot end design currently under development.<br />
<br />
Key aspects of the hot end are:<br />
<br />
*Minimal parts count<br />
*Can be fabricated without need for a lathe or milling machine.<br />
*If you do use a lathe then you don't need to use advanced techniques like 4-jaw chucks and turning external threads.<br />
*eliminate joints that can leak plastic<br />
*Easy to clean out blockages.<br />
*Easy to dis assemble to swap to a different size orifice.<br />
<br />
<br />
The basic concept uses an off the shelf brass M8x30mm hex head bolt to form the extruder barrel and nozzle.<br />
This brass bolt is threaded through a simple aluminium block that carries a heater cartridge and a thermistor.<br />
A plastic insulator prevents too much heat from being transferred to the extruder body.<br />
<br />
=Fabrication=<br />
==Brass Bolt==<br />
The M8x30 brass bolt is modified by drilling down the center towards the head at 3.2mm or 2mm depending on the filament size you intend to use.<br />
Drill to within about 0.5mm of the bolt head. This can be done in a drill press. You could probably even do it with a hand held drill if you were careful.<br />
The head of the bolt is then shaped to a cone shape, leaving a flat of about 1mm diameter. This can be done by gripping the bolt in a drill and spinning it while removing material with an angle grinder, bench grinder or a belt sander. You could also use a lathe if you have access to one. Finish it off with a bit of wet and dry sand paper to give it a nice appearance.<br />
Last step is to drill the orifice. Drill 0.35mm to 0.5mm hole as you prefer in the center of the flat area on the tip of the bolt. This can be done in a drill press with care. Carbide PCB drills are easier to use than HSS jobber drills. They have a 1/8" diameter body. The jobber drills are usually too small for a standard drill chuck to grip. Use the highest speed your drill press is capable of and take lots of small pecks at the hole until it breaks through.<br />
==Aluminium Block==<br />
The aluminium block is easier to make. You need a block about 20 x 12 x 12 mm or 3/4" x 1/2" x 1/2". The easiest way to get this is to buy 3/4" x 1/2" solid bar and cut a short length from that. 3/4" square bare could also be used.<br />
Clean it up and square it with a file. then mark out the three holes as per the drawing. Positioning is not critical.<br />
Tap an M8 thread into the largest hole. Take care to get the thread started square to the hole. It is best to use a taper tap for this.<br />
If you have a 6mm reamer available then drill the 6mm hole under size and use the reamer to finish it.<br />
==PEEK Insulator==<br />
The last part is the plastic insulator. Drill and tap as per the drawing. For the M8 thread you should start the thread using a taper tap to ensure it is square and then use a plug tap to finish the thread to the required depth.<br />
Use a hacksaw and a file to cut the triangular shape on the bottom end and to cut the groove mount near the top.<br />
=Other Components=<br />
==Heater Cartridge==<br />
The heater cartridge used for the prototype is 6mm diameter and 20mm long and produces 25W at 12V. You can also buy 6x23mm 40W cartridges through e-bay.<br />
If you want to use a wire wound resistor for the heater you can. Just adjust the 6mm hole size to suit your resistor.<br />
When mounting the heater cartridge the prototype did not require any heat sink paste or glue. With a close fitting hole and a heater cartridge there is plenty of heat transfer.<br />
If you are using a wire wound resistor then some fire cement or exhaust gasket cement would be a good idea. Also worth considering is Loctite 5920 CopperMaxx. This is a hi-temp silicone sealant that withstands 316°C and contains copper particles.<br />
==Teflon or PFA tubing==<br />
The short length of Teflon or PFA tubing is important it has a low coefficient of friction and ensures the filament can't swell up and jamb if it softens before it enters the barrel.<br />
The prototype used PFA tubing. PFA has much the same properties as Teflon but is transparent and not quite as soft.<br />
==Insulation==<br />
The heater block will benefit from being insulated, particularly if you have cooling fans directed at it. The prototype was wrapped with 2 layers of red silicone foam rubber sheet, held in place with a strip of Kapton tape.<br />
The glass fibre sheet that has been used on other designs of hot end would also be good. With a 25W heater the hot end maintained 200°C with about 60% on time. The heat up time was only a few minutes. If a fan was blowing on the hot end then the heat up time was too long.<br />
<br />
=Assembly=<br />
Screw the brass bolt into the aluminium block<br />
Do it up nice and tight<br />
Insert the PFA tube into the PEEK insulator<br />
Insert the heater cartridge into the aluminium block<br />
Screw the insulator onto the end of the brass bolt<br />
insert the thermistor bead into the aluminium block<br />
Wrap a strip of Kapton tape around the PEEK insulator and the wires to hold the thermistor and heater in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Drawings=<br />
Drawings of all components:[[File:KISS Hot End.PDF]]<br />
<br />
=Variations=<br />
==Bowden Hot End==<br />
If you want a bowden type hot end then make a tapped hole at the top end of the PEEK insulator. M5, 1/8"BSPT or NPT thread depending on your choice of pneumatic fitting.<br />
For 3mm filament the bowden tube should be 3mm ID/5mm OD. IMI Norgren manufacture fittings for 5mm tube that work. They require a 1/8 BSPT thread. Norgren P/N101250518<br />
For 1.75mm filament the bowden tube should be 2mm ID/4mm OD. Norgren P/N 101250418 is 4mm to 1/8BSPT push fit.</div>MikeP-NZhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:KISS_Hot_End.PDF&diff=78321File:KISS Hot End.PDF2013-01-17T02:05:41Z<p>MikeP-NZ: Drawings for KISS Hot End</p>
<hr />
<div>Drawings for KISS Hot End</div>MikeP-NZ