https://reprap.org/mediawiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Peter6960&feedformat=atomRepRap - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T17:01:21ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.30.0https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97145Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T19:30:48Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's (www.openhardware.co.za) use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013) */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====peter6960's (www.openhardware.co.za) use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013)====<br />
I have always loved the Gen 7 - bulletproof, simple, reliable. Easy to make, Easy to fix. Why you would want to use any other advanced controller baffels me<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px| thumb | March 2012 - My first Gen 7 1.4.1 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px| thumb | August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 1.4.1 on both]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px | thumb | August 2012 - Gen 7 1.4.1 ]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter696012.jpg|200px| thumb | Reliably running a bowden setup for a while on a Gen 7 1.4.1 on PB no 3]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter696013.jpg|200px| thumb | Another Gen 7 1.4.1 I helped a buddy in Mpumalanga assemble ]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter696014.jpg|200px| thumb | Got Repetier Firmware with I2C LCD running after a long battle ]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px| thumb | Built a 1.5 for my EcksbotZA in Dec 2012]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px| thumb | Etched one of Xoan's reworked Gen 7 1.5S boards ]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px| thumb | Loved it so much I made up one panel to use for my botfarm - March 2013]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px| thumb | Neatly mounted on one of my EcksbotZAs - May 2013]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px| thumb | Rack of Ecksbots all running Gen 7 1.5s]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px| thumb | another Ecksbot with Gen 7 1.5 at the office]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
All-in-all I think I've personally had about 12 Gen 7's over the years, with probably another 20 made for friends, collegues and at the local hackerspace<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97143Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T19:20:07Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's (www.openhardware.co.za) use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013) */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====peter6960's (www.openhardware.co.za) use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013)====<br />
I have always loved the Gen 7 - bulletproof, simple, reliable. Easy to make, Easy to fix. Why you would want to use any other advanced controller baffels me<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px| thumb | March 2012 - My first Gen 7 1.4.1 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px| thumb | August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 1.4.1 on both]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px | thumb | August 2012 - Gen 7 1.4.1 ]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter696012.jpg|200px| thumb | Reliably running a bowden setup for a while on a Gen 7 1.4.1 on PB no 3]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter696013.jpg|200px| thumb | Another Gen 7 1.4.1 I helped a buddy in Mpumalanga assemble ]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter696014.jpg|200px| thumb | Got Repetier Firmware with I2C LCD running after a long battle ]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px| thumb | Built a 1.5 for my EcksbotZA in Dec 2012]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px| thumb | Etched one of Xoan's reworked Gen 7 1.5S boards ]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px| thumb | Loved it so much I made up one panel to use for my botfarm - March 2013]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px| thumb | Neatly mounted on one of my EcksbotZAs - May 2013]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px| thumb | Rack of Ecksbots all running Gen 7 1.5s]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px| thumb | another Ecksbot with Gen 7 1.5 at the office]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Gen7_peter696014.jpg&diff=97142File:Gen7 peter696014.jpg2013-07-01T19:19:29Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Gen7_peter696013.jpg&diff=97141File:Gen7 peter696013.jpg2013-07-01T19:18:16Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Gen7_peter696012.jpg&diff=97140File:Gen7 peter696012.jpg2013-07-01T19:17:40Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97139Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T19:17:05Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's (www.openhardware.co.za) use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013) */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====peter6960's (www.openhardware.co.za) use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013)====<br />
I have always loved the Gen 7 - bulletproof, simple, reliable. Easy to make, Easy to fix. Why you would want to use any other advanced controller baffels me<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px| thumb | March 2012 - My first Gen 7 1.4.1 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px| thumb | August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 1.4.1 on both]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px | thumb | August 2012 - Gen 7 1.4.1 ]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter696012.jpg|200px| thumb | Reliably running a bowden setup for a while on a Gen 7 1.4.1 on PB no 3]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter696013.jpg|200px| thumb | Another Gen 7 1.4.1 I helped a buddy in Mpumalanga assemble ]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter696014.jpg|200px| thumb | Got Repetier Fimmware with I2C LCD running after a long battle ]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px| thumb | Built a 1.5 for my EcksbotZA in Dec 2012]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px| thumb | Etched one of Xoan's reworked Gen 7 1.5S boards ]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px| thumb | Loved it so much I made up one panel to use for my botfarm - March 2013]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px| thumb | Neatly mounted on one of my EcksbotZAs - May 2013]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px| thumb | Rack of Ecksbots all running Gen 7 1.5s]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px| thumb | another Ecksbot with Gen 7 1.5 at the office]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97138Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T19:16:36Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's (www.openhardware.co.za) use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013) */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====peter6960's (www.openhardware.co.za) use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013)====<br />
I have always loved the Gen 7 - bulletproof, simple, reliable. Easy to make, Easy to fix. Why you would want to use any other advanced controller baffels me<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px| thumb | March 2012 - My first Gen 7 1.4.1 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px| thumb | August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 1.4.1 on both]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px | thumb | August 2012 - Gen 7 1.4.1 ]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter696012.jpg|200px| thumb | Reliablry running a bowden setup for a while on a Gen 7 1.4.1 on PB no 3]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter696013.jpg|200px| thumb | Another Gen 7 1.4.1 I helped a buddy in Mpumalanga assemble ]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter696014.jpg|200px| thumb | Got Repetier Fimmware with I2C LCD running after a long battle ]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px| thumb | Built a 1.5 for my EcksbotZA in Dec 2012]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px| thumb | Etched one of Xoan's reworked Gen 7 1.5S boards ]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px| thumb | Loved it so much I made up one panel to use for my botfarm - March 2013]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px| thumb | Neatly mounted on one of my EcksbotZAs - May 2013]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px| thumb | Rack of Ecksbots all running Gen 7 1.5s]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px| thumb | another Ecksbot with Gen 7 1.5 at the office]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRap_Morgan&diff=97135RepRap Morgan2013-07-01T16:55:44Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Reprap Morgan<br />
|status = Working<br />
<!--General--><br />
|image = DSC0382-682x1024.jpg<br />
|description = Future Default RepRap and GADA prize applicant<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = qharley<br />
|reprap = Everything / Nothing<br />
|categories = SCARA / 5 lever armed robot<br />
|cadModel = OpenSCAD / LibreCAD<br />
|url = http://reprap.harleystudio.co.za<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br/><br />
=RepRap Morgan=<br />
Reprap Morgan is intended to be the next default RepRap, while conforming to the specification of the Gada Prize.<br />
In the opinion of the author the main problem prohibiting faster replication of RepRap system are:<br />
# Cost of a stable structure, capable of a long service life at a high print quality<br />
# Relatively hard to construct: Precise measurements are required<br />
<br />
In addition to the GADA goals, the following goals will be added:<br />
# Total hardware material cost (excluding build platform) of <$100<br />
# Print, Snap and Tighten assembly process for the main system components<br />
# Vitamins should be kept to absolute minimum, and should be easily available, at very low cost - worldwide.<br />
# Vitamins should additionally be used keeping in mind their original design specification, in order to maximize vitamin lifetime.<br />
<br />
=Buy one=<br />
Interested Parties in South Africa now order a DIY kit with free build Workshops in Durban and Centurion<br />
http://secure-www.openhardware.co.za/cart/index.php?id_product=31&controller=product<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
=Details=<br />
The months of October 2012 to March 2013 has been (so far) a period of renewed rapid development of the RepRap Morgan concept.<br />
There are some initial details on my blog:<br />
http://reprap.harleystudio.co.za<br />
<br />
The complete unit mechanical design was done in OpenSCAD.<br />
Software / Firmware is based loosely off the Printrun / Marlin combination.<br />
Firmware is under development, but can be downloaded here: https://github.com/qharley/Marlin<br />
<br />
Electronics used is RAMPS 1.4 for the prototype.<br />
<br />
RepRap Morgan is based on the SCARA concept, and is unique because of it's motor placement, and concentric drive shafts. Planning and design started July 2011, and the project morphed through a couple of concepts and prototypes to get to this point:<br />
<br />
The Scara concept as it is today started in December 2011, when I let go of an initial prototype because of the high vitamin count of that project.<br />
<br />
The initial version of Morgan has been completed, and the STL and other source files are available, see below.<br />
<br />
[http://reprap.harleystudio.co.za/?page_id=384 Initial assembly instructions]<br />
<br />
=Files and Parts=<br />
Quentin Harley officially released the RepRap Morgan plans on May 14th, 2013. The STL files are located here https://github.com/qharley/Morgan/tree/master/stl<br />
<br />
DXF files can be used as basic templates to manufacture the platforms by hand. No laser-cutting required on a budget. The two prototypes were built using reused wood, hand-cut at no cost to the author.<br />
<br />
A B.O.M. was created on kitbom.com: http://kitbom.com/WillAdams/reprap-morgan --- the specific parts need to be filled, esp. w/ purchase links, and all parts need to be verified as to accuracy of transcription and choice.<br />
<br />
Queries about the afore-mentioned B.O.M.:<br />
* 80mm is rather long for an M4 --- is there no other option?<br />
60mm would also be acceptable (qharley)<br />
* what torque rating should the 200 step stepper motor have?<br />
0.5Nm is fine (qharley)<br />
* PTFE tubing 6mm 600mm --- is the 6mm inside or outside diameter?<br />
6mm OD (around 4mm ID)<br />
* dimensions for the ``Universal Plate''?<br />
added to Morgan git<br />
* dimensions for the Aluminum plate?<br />
200x200mm<br />
* specifics of the heat pad --- I picked 9 x 9 in. 200W --- OK?<br />
PCB Heatbed Mk2a or similar (200x200mm)<br />
* what gauge should the wire be? I picked 18ga<br />
* Must the piping be brass? That's really going to blow the budget<br />
Brass plumbing is readily available, easy to work with and strong with a thin wall.<br />
Should not cost more than $4 to $6 for all of the brass piping.<br />
* What are the Cap_2 and TighteningCone_2?<br />
Included in the Git repository. Used for clamping Bowden tube<br />
<br />
=Downloads=<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/qharley/Morgan/blob/master/source/BOM.ods Bill of Materials as a .ods] See also [http://reprap.harleystudio.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Reprap-Morgan-BOM-1.pdf Reprap-Morgan-BOM-1.pdf]<br />
<br />
=Photos and Drawings=<br />
<br />
[http://reprap.harleystudio.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/DSC0382-682x1024.jpg Recent shot of the Morgan Frame]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97128Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:45:34Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013) */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====peter6960's (www.openhardware.co.za) use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013)====<br />
I have always loved the Gen 7 - bulletproof, simple, reliable. Easy to make, Easy to fix. Why you would want to use any other advanced controller baffels me<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px| thumb | March 2012 - My first Gen 7 1.4.1 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px| thumb | August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 1.4.1 on both]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px | thumb | August 2012 - Gen 7 1.4.1 caption ]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px| thumb | Built a 1.5 for my EcksbotZA in Dec 2012]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px| thumb | Etched one of Xoan's reworked Gen 7 1.5S boards ]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px| thumb | Loved it so much I made up one panel to use for my botfarm - March 2013]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px| thumb | Neatly mounted on one of my EcksbotZAs - May 2013]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px| thumb | Rack of Ecksbots all running Gen 7 1.5s]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px| thumb | another Ecksbot with Gen 7 1.5 at the office]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97127Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:42:50Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013) */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013)====<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px| thumb | March 2012 - My first Gen 7 1.4.1 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px| thumb | August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 1.4.1 on both]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px | thumb | August 2012 - Gen 7 1.4.1 caption ]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px| thumb | Built a 1.5 for my EcksbotZA in Dec 2012]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px| thumb | Etched one of Xoan's reworked Gen 7 1.5S boards ]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px| thumb | Loved it so much I made up one panel to use for my botfarm - March 2013]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px| thumb | Neatly mounted on one of my EcksbotZAs - May 2013]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px| thumb | Rack of Ecksbots all running Gen 7 1.5s]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px| thumb | another Ecksbot with Gen 7 1.5 at the office]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97126Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:42:09Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013) */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013)====<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px| thumb | March 2012 - My first Gen 7 1.4.1 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px| thumb | August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 1.4.1 on both]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px | thumb | August 2012 - Gen 7 1.4.1 caption ]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px| thumb | Built a 1.5 for my EcksbotZA in Dec 2012]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px| thumb | Etched one of Xoan's reworked Gen 7 1.5S board ]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px| thumb | Loved it so much I made up one panel to use for my botfarm - March 2013]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px| thumb | Neatly mounted on one of my EcksbotZAs - May 2013]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px| thumb | Rack of Ecksbots all running Gen 7 1.5s]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px| thumb | another Ecksbot with Gen 7 1.5 at the office]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97125Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:38:33Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013) */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013)====<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px| thumb | March 2012 - My first Gen 7 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px| thumb | August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 on both]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px | thumb | caption ]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97124Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:38:05Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013) */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013)====<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px| thumb | March 2012 - My first Gen 7 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px| thumb | August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 on both]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px | thumb | caption ]]<br />
<br />
<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97123Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:37:19Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013) */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013)====<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px| thumb | March 2012 - My first Gen 7 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px| thumb | August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 on both]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px thumb | caption ]]<br />
<br />
<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px| thumb | caption]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97122Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:36:03Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards (March 2012 - May 2013)====<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|frameless|200px| thumb | March 2012 - My first Gen 7 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px| thumb | August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 on both]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px thumb | caption ]]<br />
<br />
<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px thumb | caption]]<br />
<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px thumb | caption]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px thumb | caption]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97121Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:32:31Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year====<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|frameless|200px|March 2012 - My first Gen 7 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px|August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 on both]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97120Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:29:49Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year====<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px|March 2012 - My first Gen 7 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px|August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 on both]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97119Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:29:27Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year====<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|thumb|March 2012 - My first Gen 7 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|thumb|August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 on both]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97118Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:28:53Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year====<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px||March 2012 - My first Gen 7 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px||August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 on both]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97117Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:27:04Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year====<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px|March 2012 - My first Gen 7 on a DIY Printrbot]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px|August 2012 - built my second Printrbot - Still using Gen 7 on both]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Gen7_peter6960105.jpg&diff=97115File:Gen7 peter6960105.jpg2013-07-01T12:25:18Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97114Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:23:37Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year====<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97113Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:22:50Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year====<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960105.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Gen7_peter6960104.jpg&diff=97112File:Gen7 peter6960104.jpg2013-07-01T12:21:08Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97110Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:19:57Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year====<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960104.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Gen7_peter6960103.jpg&diff=97109File:Gen7 peter6960103.jpg2013-07-01T12:19:33Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97108Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:18:34Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year====<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960103.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Gen7_peter6960002.jpg&diff=97107File:Gen7 peter6960002.jpg2013-07-01T12:17:58Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Gen7_peter6960001.jpg&diff=97105File:Gen7 peter6960001.jpg2013-07-01T12:17:24Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97104Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T12:17:05Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year====<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960001.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960002.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Gen7_peter69601.jpg&diff=97103File:Gen7 peter69601.jpg2013-07-01T12:16:24Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Gen7_peter69600.jpg&diff=97101File:Gen7 peter69600.jpg2013-07-01T12:10:34Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97100Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T11:54:03Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year====<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Gen7_peter69603.jpg&diff=97099File:Gen7 peter69603.jpg2013-07-01T11:53:16Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97098Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T11:51:31Z<p>Peter6960: /* peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year====<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69600.jpg|300px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69601.jpg|300px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|300px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter69603.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Gen7_peter6960.jpg&diff=97097File:Gen7 peter6960.jpg2013-07-01T11:51:03Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Stories&diff=97096Gen7 Stories2013-07-01T11:45:57Z<p>Peter6960: /* Build Reports */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Generation7Electronics}}<br />
<br />
=Build Reports=<br />
<br />
====peter6960's use of Gen7 Boards over the last year====<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|300px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|300px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|300px]]<br />
[[File:gen7_peter6960.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
====Mateusz Pozar Drilling his Board====<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">26525475</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Markus "Traumflug" Hitter showing Gen7 replication====<br />
<br />
One of the main development goals of Generation 7 Electronics is to make RepRap electronics replicatable, just like mechanics. This doesn't include printing resistors or integrated circuits, yet, but I think a first step is done already.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">28673339</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot to Mateusz for editing this video.<br />
<br />
=Hall of Fame=<br />
<br />
If you got your Generation 7 Electronics board working, you can be proud of that. Hit the edit link and insert your picture here.<br />
<br />
====Holger====<br />
<br />
June 2013<br />
<br />
This is Holger J.'s Prusa i2 driven by a Gen7 v1.5. Nice work, Holger!<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Prusa i2 Holger.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====sonex128====<br />
<br />
January 2013<br />
<br />
Brian made a Gen7 on white PCB, see also in the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,183242#msg-183242 RepRap forum]:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 sonex128.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====mymixed====<br />
<br />
December 2012<br />
<br />
mymixed made a Gen7 on prototyping board:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 1.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 mymixes 2.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Collins====<br />
<br />
April 2012<br />
<br />
I have soldered a Gen7 v1.3 board. It's working with the Teacup firmware. The PCB and components were supplied by Traumflug.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-small.jpg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7-opto-endstop.jpg | 220px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====Printrbot====<br />
<br />
February 2012<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=W23qKhT6PJc#t=64s This video], also shown on the [http://printrbot.com printrbot.com] page, clearly shows a Printrbot driven by a Gen7 v1.2. Nice!<br />
<br />
====Simon Day====<br />
<br />
January 2012<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020122.JPG | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:P1020125.JPG | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Mountings used - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16264<br />
<br />
====Julian Gebhardt====<br />
<br />
August 2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7 Julian Gebhardt 02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====David Ullrich====<br />
<br />
08/12/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_David_Ullrich.jpg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
====James Moon====<br />
<br />
07/31/2011<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_01.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_02.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|-<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_04.jpeg | 150px]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7_james_moon_03.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
It was my first attempt on milling a PCB on my [http://solsylva.com/cnc/10x9x4.shtml Solsylva 10x9] using Eagle and pcb-gcode. Not the prettiest, but it's been working great.<br />
<br />
====BryanandAimee====<br />
<br />
Etched a couple V1.1 boards a while ago. I have one on my [[prusa]] and one for my test_tube_mendel when I get it that far. The prusa is jogging around but no prints yet as I haven't got the extruder going. Now I have a few more in process for the [[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]. They are V1.3 boards. <br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | [[File:VXC_GEN7.jpg | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.1 electronics]]<br />
| align="center" | [[File:Gen7x4.JPG | 300px | thumb | BryanandAimee's Gen7 V1.3 electronics]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Donejhead.jpg&diff=96989File:Donejhead.jpg2013-06-30T17:39:34Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Tapetherm.jpg&diff=96988File:Tapetherm.jpg2013-06-30T17:39:09Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Insertresistor.jpg&diff=96987File:Insertresistor.jpg2013-06-30T17:38:42Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Kaptonleg2.jpg&diff=96986File:Kaptonleg2.jpg2013-06-30T17:38:19Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Checkjhead.jpg&diff=96985File:Checkjhead.jpg2013-06-30T17:37:48Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=J_Head_Nozzle&diff=96984J Head Nozzle2013-06-30T17:37:22Z<p>Peter6960: /* Photo Series with detailed assembly instructions for current version of JHead */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = J-Head Nozzle<br />
|image = Jhn_mk5.jpg<br />
|status = working<br />
|description = J-Head Nozzle and Thermal Barrier Based on a combination of ideas from the Makerbot Mk 5 hot end, The Inline Heater Variation, some ideas from Brian Briggs, and some ideas from me.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = Reifsnyderb<br />
|reprap = Extruder Nozzle Variations<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Hot End|Hot End]][[Category:Hot End]], [[:Category:Extruders|Extruders]][[Category:Extruders]]<br />
|version = 1.0<br />
|url = [http://jheadnozzle.blogspot.com Blog]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==Introduction==<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzles.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
This nozzle is a combination of ideas from other nozzle designs combined with a goal to reduce the number of custom machined parts to a bare minimum. By reducing the number of machined parts, it is hoped that the cost of this hot-end can be kept down while improving the reliability.<br />
<br />
The use of a machined piece of round PTFE, as a liner, was requested in one of two designs by Brian Briggs. <br />
<br />
The idea of using the [[PTFE]] tubing as a liner, from the [[:Category:Cold End|Cold End]] to the tip, was borrowed from the Makerbot Mk V extruder design.<br />
<br />
The PTFE tubing also acts to "bridge" the joint between the [[PEEK]] insulator and the [[brass]] nozzle/heater. By not having the [[filament]] in contact with this joint it is hoped that any possibility of leakage will be completely eliminated.<br />
<br />
The use of a combination heater and nozzle was borrowed from [[User:ParCan|ParCan's]] [[Extruder_Nozzle_Variations#Inline_Heater_-_Variation| Inline Heater Nozzle Variation]]. However, instead of the heater resistor being mounted parallel to the path of the filament it is mounted perpendicular to the path of the filament. This was done to both reduce the length of the nozzle and to make it a little easier to run the leads from the heater resistor. Combining the heater and nozzle also helped to meet the goal to keep the number of custom machined parts to a minimum.<br />
<br />
'''Advantages'''<br />
* Internally, the filament path is identical to that of an already proven design.<br />
* The design is simple as the number of custom machined parts is kept to a minimum.<br />
* If necessary, the PTFE liner can be replaced by using an off-the-shelf piece of PTFE tubing.<br />
* The PTFE is not stressed nor used to provide support. This reduces a point of failure that is part of other designs.<br />
* A resistor is used as a heater. There is no need to wrap nichrome wire or to bake a heater core.<br />
* Heat transmission is improved as there is no thermal junction where a separate heater screws onto the nozzle.<br />
* With most versions weighing in at under 25 grams and the lightest version weighing in at under 13 grams, this design is very light.<br />
<br />
'''Disadvantages'''<br />
* Considerable machining is required.<br />
<br />
==Suppliers==<br />
<br />
* [http://www.hotends.com HotEnds.com]<br />
* [http://www.charlies3dtechnologies.eu Charlie's 3D Technologies]<br />
* [http://www.makerfarm.com MakerFarm.com]<br />
* [http://www.creativemachines.co.uk Creative Machines]<br />
* [http://www.emakershop.com eMakerShop]<br />
* [http://www.reprap-usa.com RepRap-USA]<br />
* [http://www.reprapsource.com reprapsource]<br />
* [http://www.plastic2print.com/en/j-head-hotends.html Plastic2Print Europe]<br />
* [http://www.reprap-france.com/ eMotion Tech reprap-france.com]<br />
* [http://www.ultibots.com/hot-ends Ultibots Hot Ends]<br />
<br />
==Parts List==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Mk I===<br />
<br />
Summary: First J-Head hot-end.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk1.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v1.x)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 1.x<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v1)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 1.x<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Support Washer <br />
|Optional 1/2" Fender Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91090A114<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk II===<br />
<br />
Summary: Added a hollow set-screw to retain the PTFE liner.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk2.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v1.x)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 1.x<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v2)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 2<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Support Washer <br />
|Optional 1/2" Fender Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91090A114<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk III===<br />
<br />
Summary: Added a heat sink in order to print PLA. To reduce weight, an aluminum nozzle is used.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk3.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v2)<br />
|Machined Aluminum Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 2<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v3)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 3<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heat Sink<br />
|Machined Aluminum Heat Sink<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Support Washer <br />
|Optional 1/2" Fender Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91090A114<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk III-B===<br />
<br />
Summary: Added a heat sink in order to print PLA.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk3_b_pic.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v1.x)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 1.x<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v3)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 3<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heat Sink (v1)<br />
|Machined Aluminum Heat Sink, Version 1<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Support Washer <br />
|Optional 1/2" Fender Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91090A114<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk IV===<br />
<br />
Summary: Removed the heat sink and added a series of vents to provide cooling. To reduce weight, an aluminum nozzle is used.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk4.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v2)<br />
|Machined Aluminum Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 2<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v4)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 4<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Support Washer <br />
|Optional 1/2" Fender Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91090A114<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk IV-B===<br />
<br />
Summary: Removed the heat sink and added a series of vents to provide cooling.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk4_b.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v1.x)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 1.x<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v4)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 4<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Support Washer <br />
|Optional 1/2" Fender Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91090A114<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk V===<br />
<br />
Summary: Reduced the size and increased the length of the melt zone. To reduce weight, an aluminum nozzle is used.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk5.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v5)<br />
|Machined Aluminum Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 5<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v5)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 5<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Flat Washer <br />
|1/4" OD Flat Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 98032A436<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk V-B===<br />
<br />
Summary: Reduced the size and increased the length of the melt zone.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk5b.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v4)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 4<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v5)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 5<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Flat Washer <br />
|1/4" OD Flat Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 98032A436<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk V-BV===<br />
<br />
Summary: As the old thermistor was discontinued, the Semitec thermistor was substituted.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk5bv.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v4.1)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 4<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v5)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 5<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v2)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 2<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 5<br />
|Semitec<br />
|104GT-2 <br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Flat Washer <br />
|1/4" OD Flat Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 98032A436<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk VI-B===<br />
<br />
Summary: Uses a heater cartridge and two thermistors. If the firmware (Marlin) is properly configured, and the thermistors are not reporting the same temperature, the firmware will turn off the heater cartridge.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk6b.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v4.2)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 4.2<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v5)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 5<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v2)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 2<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Ceramic Heater Cartridge<br />
|12V, 30W, 15mm long, 6mm diameter <br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|2<br />
|Thermistor 5<br />
|Semitec<br />
|104GT-2 <br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Set Screw<br />
|4-40 Set Screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] part num. coming soon<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|4-40 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] part num. coming soon<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Flat Washer <br />
|1/4" OD Flat Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 98032A436<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk VII-B===<br />
<br />
Summary: New nozzle holder design.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk6b.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v4.2)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 4.2<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v6)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 6<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v2)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 2<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Ceramic Heater Cartridge<br />
|12V, 30W, 15mm long, 6mm diameter <br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|2<br />
|Thermistor 5<br />
|Semitec<br />
|104GT-2 <br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Set Screw<br />
|4-40 Set Screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] part num. coming soon<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|4-40 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] part num. coming soon<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Flat Washer <br />
|1/4" OD Flat Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 98032A436<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Sundries===<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|'''Notes'''<br />
|-<br />
|PTFE Insulation For EPCOS or Semitec Thermistor, 0.012" ID<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5335K9<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|PTFE Insulation For Heater Resistor, 0.047" ID<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5335K15<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|20 AWG High Temperature Wire<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 8209K11<br />
|<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Note: *A good drill-chart for anyone with plans to make one can be found here http://whatisacnc.com/index.php?cID=241<br />
<br />
==Parts Descriptions==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Machined Parts===<br />
<br />
<br />
====J-Head Nozzle====<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_machining.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=====Version 1=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_ver1.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_md_brass_heater_nozzle.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
Material: Brass Bar Stock, 5/8" Square Or 5/8" x 1/2" Rectangular, 1.125" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 11.1 grams<br />
<br />
Note: These instructions differ from the machining example displayed in the above picture and are only one example of how the nozzle can be machined. The machining process can vary depending upon available machinery and tooling. The minimum machining requirements are a metal lathe with a 4-jaw independent chuck.<br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of brass bar stock 1.125" long plus enough to adequately hold the stock in the lathe.<br />
# On the brass bar stock, find the center of the axis of the nozzle. This can be done by various means ranging from using a milling machine to using marking fluid, a height gauge, and a surface plate.<br />
# Mount the brass bar stock in a 4-jaw chuck on a lathe. Adjust the chuck so that the nozzle axis is on center.<br />
# Turn the threaded end of the nozzle down to 0.375 +0.000 -0.004.<br />
# Thread the nozzle to 3/8-24 up to the shoulder of the heater section.<br />
# Drill out the center of the nozzle using a 6.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Turn off the last 3 threads, at the end of the nozzle, and cleanup the threads.<br />
# Cut a 30 degree taper on the very end of the threaded end of the brass nozzle. This is to completely eliminate the internal gap between the brass nozzle and the PEEK thermal barrier. This gap would exist due to the internal taper created by the cutting edge of the drill bit.<br />
# Remove the work piece and mount it by the threaded end so that the threaded end is centered in the lathe.<br />
# Cut-off any excess material.<br />
# Machine the nozzle tip to the desired profile.<br />
# Drill the nozzle orifice.<br />
# Mill or turn off the excess material in the heater section. This can be accomplished by mounting the nozzle in the 4-jaw chuck sideways so that the excess material is presented for machining. If available, a milling machine can also be used. (If a 5/8" x 1/2" piece of bar stock is used, this step will be skipped.)<br />
# Using a letter size A drill bit, drill out the hole for the heater resistor.<br />
# Drill out the hole for the thermistor.<br />
<br />
=====Version 1.1=====<br />
<br />
Material: Brass Bar Stock, 5/8" Square Or 5/8" x 1/2" Rectangular, 1.125" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 14.4 grams w/optional improvements<br />
<br />
With the exception of the following changes, the dimensions are identical to Version 1 of the J-Head Nozzle. These changes were implemented in early December of 2011.<br />
<br />
# Melt Chamber: Drill out the internal cavity to a depth of 0.560 with the 6.5mm drill bit. Finish drilling the internal cavity with a 3.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Nozzle Orifice Spout Diameter: Reduce the diameter of the nozzle orifice spout from 0.080 to 0.050. This will reduce the size of the tip that can catch on the print.<br />
# Start of Nozzle Orifice Taper: Start the taper at 0.050 from the heater block section. This will add room for optional insulation.<br />
<br />
=====Version 2=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_ver2.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
Material: Aluminum Bar Stock, 5/8" Square Or 5/8" x 1/2" Rectangular, 1.125" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 3.8 grams<br />
<br />
Note: The primary reason for using aluminum is to save weight. The alloy should be 2024, 7075, or a similar harder, high quality, alloy. Softer alloys, such as 6061, are not recommended.<br />
<br />
The blueprint and instructions are identical to Version 1 of the J-Head Nozzle.<br />
<br />
=====Version 3=====<br />
<br />
Material: Aluminum (2024 or 7075) Bar Stock, 1/2" Square, 1.000" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: Unknown<br />
<br />
(Instructions are incomplete at this time.)<br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of aluminum bar stock 1.000" long plus enough to adequately hold the stock in the lathe.<br />
# On the aluminum bar stock, find the center of the axis of the nozzle. This can be done by various means ranging from using a milling machine to using marking fluid, a height gauge, and a surface plate.<br />
# Mount the brass bar stock in a 4-jaw chuck on a lathe. Adjust the chuck so that the nozzle axis is on center.<br />
# Turn the threaded end of the nozzle down to 0.375 +0.000 -0.004. The threaded end will be 0.500" long.<br />
# Thread the nozzle to 3/8-24 up to the shoulder of the heater section.<br />
# Drill out the center of the nozzle, to a depth of 0.500", using a 6.5mm drill bit. The depth will be measured from the side of the hole.<br />
# Drill out the melt chamber using a 3.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Turn off the last 3 threads, at the end of the nozzle, and cleanup the threads.<br />
# Cut a 30 degree taper on the very end of the threaded end of the brass nozzle. This is to completely eliminate the internal gap between the brass nozzle and the PEEK thermal barrier. This gap would exist due to the internal taper created by the cutting edge of the drill bit.<br />
# Remove the work piece and mount it by the threaded end so that the threaded end is centered in the lathe.<br />
# Cut-off any excess material.<br />
# Machine the nozzle tip to the desired profile.<br />
# Drill the nozzle orifice.<br />
# Using a number 8 drill bit, drill out the hole for the heater resistor.<br />
# Drill out the hole for the thermistor.<br />
<br />
=====Version 4=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_ver4.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
OpenSCAD drawing: [http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/3/3f/Jhn_nozzle_v4.scad Jhn_nozzle_v4.scad]<br />
<br />
Material: Brass Bar Stock, 1/2" Square, 1.000" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 11.3 grams<br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of brass bar stock 1 inch long plus enough to adequately hold the stock in the lathe.<br />
# On the brass bar stock, find the center of the axis of the nozzle. (The axis is centered at 0.250 +-0.001, from one edge, and 0.157 -0.000 +0.003 from an adjacent edge.) This can be done by various means ranging from using a milling machine to using marking fluid, a height gauge, and a surface plate.<br />
# Mount the brass bar stock in a 4-jaw chuck on a lathe. Adjust the chuck so that the nozzle axis is on center.<br />
# Turn the threaded end of the nozzle down to 0.3125 +0.000 -0.004. This section is 0.500 +-0.005 long.<br />
# For the first 0.150 +-0.010, of the threaded section, down to an OD of 0.255 (6.5mm) +0.000 -0.002.<br />
# Thread the nozzle to 5/16-24 up to the shoulder of the heater section.<br />
# Drill out the center of the nozzle with a 3.5mm drill bit. This will create a heat chamber that is the entire length of the brass nozzle.<br />
# Remove the work piece and mount it by the threaded end so that the threaded end is centered in the lathe.<br />
# Cut-off any excess material.<br />
# Machine the nozzle tip to the desired profile leaving the heater block section 0.325 thick.<br />
# Drill the nozzle orifice.<br />
# Using a size A drill bit, drill the heater resistor hole through the heater block section.<br />
# Drill the thermistor hole.<br />
<br />
Note: A size C Drill bit can be used if the heater resistor does not fit through the heater resistor hold. Care needs to be taken to ensure that the drill bit does not break through into the melt chamber. The remaining brass, between this hole and the edge opposite of the melt chamber, should be 0.020 +-0.002 thick.<br />
<br />
<br />
=====Version 4.1=====<br />
<br />
Instructions are identical to version 4. However, the thermistor hole is drilled for out for Thermistor 5.<br />
<br />
=====Version 4.2=====<br />
<br />
Coming soon.<br />
<br />
=====Version 5=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_ver5.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Material: Aluminum Bar Stock, 1/2" Square, 1.000" Long <br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 3.7 grams <br />
<br />
Note: The primary reason for using aluminum is to save weight. The alloy should be 2024, 7075, or a similar harder, high quality, alloy. Softer alloys, such as 6061, are not recommended. <br />
<br />
The blueprint and instructions are identical to Version 4 of the J-Head Nozzle.<br />
<br />
=====Version 6=====<br />
<br />
Material: Brass Bar Stock, 1/2" Square, 1.000" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: ~11.3 grams (will need verified)<br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of brass bar stock 1 inch long plus enough to adequately hold the stock in the lathe.<br />
# On the brass bar stock, find the center of the axis of the nozzle. (The axis is centered at 0.250 +-0.001, from one edge, and 0.157 -0.000 +0.003 from an adjacent edge.) This can be done by various means ranging from using a milling machine to using marking fluid, a height gauge, and a surface plate.<br />
# Mount the brass bar stock in a 4-jaw chuck on a lathe. Adjust the chuck so that the nozzle axis is on center.<br />
# Turn the threaded end of the nozzle down to 0.3125 +0.000 -0.004. This section is 0.500 +-0.005 long.<br />
# For the first 0.150 +-0.010, of the threaded section, down to an OD of 0.255 (6.5mm) +0.000 -0.002.<br />
# Thread the nozzle to 5/16-24 up to the shoulder of the heater section.<br />
# Drill out the center of the nozzle with a 3.5mm drill bit. This will create a heat chamber that is the entire length of the brass nozzle.<br />
# Remove the work piece and mount it by the threaded end so that the threaded end is centered in the lathe.<br />
# Cut-off any excess material.<br />
# Machine the nozzle tip to the desired profile leaving the heater block section 0.325 thick.<br />
# Drill the nozzle orifice.<br />
# Using a size C drill bit, drill the heater resistor hole through the heater block section. The remaining brass, between this hole and the edge opposite of the melt chamber, should be 0.020 +-0.002 thick.<br />
# Drill the thermistor hole. (Change this....)<br />
<br />
====Nozzle Holder====<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
<br />
# PEEK nozzle holders have a maximum working temperature of roughly 248 degrees Celsius. Due to many variables, it is highly recommended that this temperature is not to be approached. Above this temperature, PEEK will melt and the hot-end will fail. <br />
# PEEK normally is made in either tan or black and either color can be used. Black is normally used as it looks better, however, at times suppliers may be out of one color and the other color can be substituted.<br />
<br />
=====Version 1=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_thermal_barrier.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
Note: Picture shown displays the 36.5mm nozzle holder without optional mounting groove.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v1.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/8" Round, 36.5mm Long Or 50mm Long<br />
<br />
Note: The length can be increased, if necessary. (i.e. Increase the length to 50mm for the Sells Mendel and/or if the heat-sink is going to be installed.) All dimensions on the hot-end side, of the thermal barrier, would remain the same.<br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of 5/8" round PEEK to length.<br />
# Drill out the PEEK using a 6.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Using a letter size Q drill bit, enlarge one end to a depth of 0.450 +-0.005.<br />
# Internally thread the end to 3/8-24 using a bottom tap.<br />
# (Optional) Turn a 0.500 -0.000 +0.005 shoulder for a distance of approximately 0.050. (This will keep the support washer centered and insulated from the brass nozzle.)<br />
# (Optional) 4.76mm from the cold-end, turn a groove that is 4.64mm wide with an OD of 12mm.<br />
<br />
=====Version 2=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v2_pic.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
Note: Picture shown displays the 50mm nozzle holder with the optional mounting groove. Not shown is the opposite end, which is threaded for the hollow-lock socket set screw.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v2.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/8" Round, 36.5mm Long Or 50mm Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 9.6 grams (50mm, with mounting groove)<br />
<br />
Note: The length can be increased, if necessary. (i.e. Increase the length to 50mm for the Sells Mendel and/or if the heat-sink is going to be installed.) All dimensions on the hot-end side, of the thermal barrier, would remain the same.<br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of 5/8" round PEEK to length.<br />
# Drill out the PEEK using a 6.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Using a letter size Q drill bit, enlarge one end to a depth of 0.450 +-0.005.<br />
# Internally thread the end to 3/8-24 using a bottom tap.<br />
# (Optional) Turn a 0.500 -0.000 +0.005 shoulder for a distance of approximately 0.050. (This will keep the support washer centered and insulated from the brass nozzle.)<br />
# Using a letter size I drill bit, drill out the cold end for a distance of 0.200.<br />
# Internally thread the cold end to 5/16-24. (A special bottom tap has to be ground in order to finish threading this hole. This tap will not have any incomplete threads.)<br />
# (Optional) 4.76mm from the cold-end, turn a groove that is 4.64mm wide with an OD of 12mm.<br />
<br />
=====Version 3=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v3_pic.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v3.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/8" Round, 50mm Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 8.6 grams (50mm, with mounting groove) <br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of 5/8" round PEEK to length.<br />
# Drill out the PEEK using a 6.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Using a letter size Q drill bit, enlarge one end to a depth of 0.450 +-0.005.<br />
# Internally thread the end to 3/8-24 using a bottom tap.<br />
# (Optional) Turn a 0.500 -0.000 +0.005 shoulder for a distance of approximately 0.050. (This will keep the support washer centered and insulated from the brass nozzle.)<br />
# Using a letter size I drill bit, drill out the cold end for a distance of 0.200.<br />
# Internally thread the cold end to 5/16-24. (A special bottom tap has to be ground in order to finish threading this hole. This tap will not have any incomplete threads.)<br />
# (Optional) 4.76mm from the cold-end, turn a groove that is 4.64mm wide with an OD of 12mm.<br />
# Using a 3/8" drill bit, drill heat-sink hole 0.787 -0.000 +0.040 from the hot-end.<br />
<br />
=====Version 4=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v4_pic.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v4.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/8" Round, 36.5mm or 50mm Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 7.5 grams (50mm, w/mounting groove)<br />
<br />
# Start with a completed version 2 nozzle holder.<br />
# Optional: At the hot end of the nozzle holder, mill two flats opposite of each-other for using a 1/2" (13mm) open end wrench. Each flat will be 0.250 (6.5mm) wide and 0.250 (6.5mm) from the axis of the nozzle holder.<br />
# Mount the nozzle holder in an indexer on a milling machine.<br />
# Equip the milling machine with a 2mm or 3/32 end mill. (The dimensions of the end mill do not have to be very precise. If desired, a ball end-mill can be used in order to mill out grooves with the bottom rounded.)<br />
# Start the first groove so that it's edge is 0.600" from the hot-end of the nozzle holder.<br />
# Mill 3 grooves (36.5mm version) or 5 grooves (50mm version) as follows. The grooves will be interrupted for the supports. <br />
## Each groove is 0.150" deep.<br />
## The centers, of each groove, are 0.125" apart.<br />
## Each groove has an angular cut of 90 degrees and is milled between the following angles: 0-90, 120-210, 240-330<br />
## Each groove support is drilled out at the following angles with the center, of it's support, at 90 degrees to the end mill: 15, 135, 255<br />
## To drill out each groove support, the end-mill is positioned so that it's edge, towards the center of the nozzle holder, is 0.150" from the outer edge of the nozzle holder.<br />
<br />
=====Version 5=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v5_pic.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v5.jpg|150px]]<br />
Early SAE Blueprint<br />
<br />
NOTE: This blueprint shows three supports. Four supports are now used as per the new blueprint, below.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v5_metric.jpg|150px]]<br />
Current Metric Blueprint<br />
<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/8" Round, 40mm Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 5.5 grams <br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of 5/8" round PEEK to length<br />
# Drill out the center of the PEEK using a 6.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Using a letter size J drill bit, enlarge one end to a depth of 0.450 +-0.010.<br />
# Drill out 0.125 +-0.005, from this end, to an ID of 0.320 +-0.005.<br />
# Internally thread the end to 5/16-24 using a bottom tap. Ensure that the threads are cut no deeper than 0.450.<br />
# Taper the hot-end such that there is a 30 degree taper that starts at 5mm from the axis of the nozzle and tapers outwards to the OD. Optionally, a shoulder could be cut in place of a taper. The purpose of this taper is to reduce the amount of contact the PEEK has with the brass.<br />
# Using a letter size J drill bit, drill out the cold end for a distance of 0.300.<br />
# Internally thread the cold end to 5/16-24. <br />
# Optional: 4.76mm from the cold end, turn a groove that is 4.64mm wide with a root of 12mm.<br />
# Optional: At the hot end of the nozzle holder, mill two flats opposite of each-other for using a 1/2" (13mm) open end wrench. Each flat will be 0.250 (6.5mm) wide and 0.250 (6.5mm) from the axis of the nozzle holder.<br />
# Mount the nozzle holder in an indexer on a milling machine.<br />
# Equip the milling machine with a 2mm or 3/32 end mill. (The dimensions of the end mill do not have to be very precise.)<br />
# Start the first groove so that it's edge is 0.500" from the hot-end of the nozzle holder.<br />
# Mill 5 grooves as follows. The grooves will be interrupted for the four supports. <br />
## Each groove is 0.150" deep.<br />
## The centers, of each groove, are 0.125" apart.<br />
## Each groove has an angular cut of 60 degrees and is milled between the following angles: 0-60, 90-150, 180-240, 270-330<br />
## Each groove support is drilled out at the following angles with the center, of it's support, at 90 degrees to the end mill: 75, 165, 255, 345<br />
## To drill out each groove support, the end-mill is positioned so that it's edge, towards the center of the nozzle holder, is 0.150" from the outer edge of the nozzle holder.<br />
<br />
<br />
Improvements:<br />
<br />
Over time, slight improvements were added to this nozzle holder. The most reliable version has modifications to the groove closest to the brass nozzle. In this groove, the supports are not drilled out and the groove is milled to 0.130" deep. These changes add extra strength to this area.<br />
<br />
=====Version 6=====<br />
<br />
Coming soon.<br />
<br />
=====Experimental, Fluted=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_x_sl.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_fluted.gif|150px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/8" Round, 50mm Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 5.5 grams<br />
<br />
Note: This nozzle holder is turned down and fluted in order to reduce the weight.<br />
<br />
# Start with a completed version 2 nozzle holder.<br />
# From the hot-end, turn the first 0.600 down to 0.550.<br />
# Turn the section to be fluted down to 12mm.<br />
# Mount the nozzle holder in an indexer on a milling machine.<br />
# Using a 2mm ball end-mill, cut 12 flutes along the length of the center section. Each flute will be cut about 0.070 deep and will be cut at 30 degree intervals.<br />
<br />
====Heat Sink====<br />
<br />
=====Version 1=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_heat_sink.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_heat_sink.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_heat_sink_installed.jpg|50px]] [[File:Jhn_heat_sink_internal_view.jpg|50px]]<br />
<br />
Material: Aluminum, 3/8" Round, 1.160" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 3.6 grams <br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of 3/8" round aluminum to length.<br />
# Using a 1mm (0.040) cutoff tool, make 3 grooves in each end. The grooves will be 0.050 deep and 1mm apart.<br />
# Using a 6.5mm drill bit, cross-drill the heat-sink to create the PTFE liner passage. This hole is to be centered in both directions.<br />
# (Optional) Drill out each end for 0.350 with a number 25 drill bit. These holes are to lighten the heat sink.<br />
<br />
Modifying the Nozzle Holder:<br />
<br />
Note: Due to there being slightly less than 12mm clearance with a 36.5mm nozzle holder, between the cold-end of the nozzle holder and the heat sink, using a 50mm nozzle holder is advisable. (Different thermal barrier lengths are shown in the above pictures.)<br />
<br />
# If it is desirable to orient the heat sink in a certain direction relative to the brass nozzle, install the brass nozzle.<br />
# Using a 3/8" drill bit, cross-drill the nozzle holder so that the center of the hole is 0.787 -0.000 +0.040 from the hot end.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
====PTFE Liner====<br />
<br />
=====Version 1=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_ptfe_liner.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PTFE tubing, 0.250" OD, 0.125" ID (metric: 6.35 mm OD, 3.175mm ID)<br />
<br />
# Using a razor knife, cut the tubing to desired length. The length is dependent upon the length of the nozzle holder used. <br />
# Cut an approximately 30 degree (or greater) taper on what will be the hot-end of the PTFE liner.<br />
# Optional: An internal taper can be made, on the cold end, by chucking the liner in a lathe and using a center drill. This taper improves the initial feeding of the filament into the hot-end.<br />
<br />
Note: The prototype nozzle has worked without this taper. However, the taper would not have to be too precise as PTFE is quite flexible. If a lathe is not available, it may be possible to cut a workable taper with a pencil sharpener.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=====Version 2=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_ptfe_liner2.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PTFE tubing, 0.250" OD, 0.125" ID (metric: 6.35 mm OD, 3.175mm ID)<br />
<br />
# Using a razor knife, cut the tubing to slightly over 1 inch long.<br />
# In a lathe, face off what will become the cold end.<br />
# Cut an internal taper, on the cold end, by chucking the liner in a lathe and using a center drill. This taper improves the initial feeding of the filament into the hot-end.<br />
# Turn the liner around in the chuck. Cut and face-off the liner so that it's total length is 0.915".<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
====1.75mm Conversion====<br />
<br />
=====Mk II To Mk IV Series Hot-Ends=====<br />
<br />
Two machined parts are required in order to convert a Mk I to Mk IV J-Head hot-end to use 1.75mm filament. They are the PEEK hollow set screw and the 1.75mm PTFE liner. In addition, if the nozzle has a melt chamber, it must be drilled out to 2mm as opposed to 3.5mm.<br />
<br />
A quicker way, to perform the conversion, is to omit the PEEK hollow set screw and use a normal 5/16-24 hollow set screw. Drill the cold end of the 1.75mm PTFE liner out to 4mm for a depth of about 0.250". Then, install the PTFE liner and hollow set-screw. Take a piece of 4mm OD, 2mm ID PTFE tubing and install it in the cold end so that the tubing has bottomed-out in the liner. Then, cut the tubing to length with a razor knife.<br />
<br />
======PEEK hollow set screw======<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/16" round, 0.200" long<br />
<br />
# If 5/16" PEEK is not available, turn down a small piece of 3/8" PEEK on a lathe.<br />
# Externally thread the PEEK to 5/16-24.<br />
# With a center drill, start a hole on the end. The taper, of the center drill, should be large enough to act as a guide when starting the filament.<br />
# From the end of the PEEK rod, drill a hole about 0.250 deep with a 2mm drill bit.<br />
# Cut off the hollow set screw so that it is about 0.200" long.<br />
# Cut a slot, in the tapered end of the set screw, for a flat screwdriver. Note: A holder will probably have to be machined in order to prevent damage to the set screw when holding it in a vise.<br />
# Deburr the set screw and clean up the threads.<br />
<br />
======1.75mm PTFE Liner======<br />
<br />
Material: PTFE, 1/4" round, 2.5" long<br />
<br />
# Using a lathe, put a 30 degree taper on one end.<br />
# Drill this end out as far as possible with a 2mm drill bit. (The hole should be started with a center drill.)<br />
# Remove the liner, from the lathe, and test fit into the hot-end. (At this point, the hot-end is the brass nozzle with the PEEK nozzle holder installed.) Make a mark, with a razor knife, where the liner exits the hot-end.<br />
# Remove the liner from the hot-end. Cut the liner about 4.5mm closer to the hot end of the liner from the mark you just made.<br />
# Put the liner in the lathe with the cold end of it sticking out. <br />
# Face off the end.<br />
# Center drill with a center drill large enough to create an inside taper when completed. This taper will help to start the filament into the liner.<br />
# Using a 2mm drill bit, drill out this end of the liner only until the hole connects with the 2mm hole drilled from the opposite end. The inside of the liner must be as smooth as possible from the hot end of the liner to where the two holes meet. <br />
# If omitting the PEEK set-screw, drill out the cold end to a depth of 0.250" with a 4mm drill bit.<br />
<br />
=====Mk V and Later Hot Ends=====<br />
<br />
Note: To do a proper conversion, the brass nozzle should have been machined with the melt chamber drilled out to 2mm as opposed to 3.5mm.<br />
<br />
Material: PTFE, 1/4" round, 1.0" long<br />
<br />
# Using a lathe, face off both ends and reduce the total length to 0.920" +- 0.010".<br />
# Drill out the center with a 2mm drill bit.<br />
# Drill out one end, with a 4mm drill bit, to 0.100".<br />
<br />
During installation, after the hollow set-screw has been installed, use a piece of 4mm OD/ 2mm ID PTFE tubing and install it in the cold end of the hot-end. This will act as a filament guide through the hollow set-screw.<br />
<br />
===Off-The-Shelf Parts===<br />
<br />
<br />
====Heater Resistor====<br />
<br />
=====5.6 ohm (Large Standard)=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_heater_resistor_5_6.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Description: Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
<br />
Part Number: UB5C-5.6-ND <br />
<br />
Weight: 1.6 grams<br />
<br />
Note: If this resistor is unavailable, the 6.8 ohm (Large Alternate) resistor can be used.<br />
<br />
=====6.8 ohm (Large Alternate)=====<br />
<br />
Description: Axial, 6.8 ohm, 5%, 3W<br />
<br />
Part Number: W21-6R8JI<br />
<br />
Note: The outside diameter tolerance, of this resistor, is very loose. Because of this, the resistor will usually fit loosely in the hole. In order to install this resistor, fire cement or muffler putty is almost mandatory.<br />
<br />
=====6.8 ohm (Small)=====<br />
<br />
Description: Axial, 6.8 ohm, 5%, 3W<br />
<br />
Part Number: RWMA-6.8CT-ND<br />
<br />
Weight: 1.1 grams<br />
<br />
<br />
====Support Washer====<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_support_washer.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
The support washer is optional. It can be drilled out with 3mm holes and M3 threaded rod can be used in order to provide additional support for the hot-end. If the support washer is not used, the nozzle holder can be secured in the extruder by using other means.<br />
<br />
Note: Support, for the support washer, was discontinued with the Mk V series hot-ends.<br />
<br />
====Thermistors====<br />
<br />
=====Thermistor 1=====<br />
Note: Original 100k Thermistor<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_thermistor.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Part Number: B57560G104F (Replacement Part B57550G1104 ?)<br />
<br />
Manufacturer: EPCOS<br />
<br />
Description: NTC thermistor sealed in glass body<br />
<br />
Tolerance: 1%<br />
<br />
Data Sheet: [http://www.epcos.com/inf/50/db/ntc_09/Glass_enc_Sensors__B57560__G560__G1560.pdf NTC Thermistors For Temperature Measurement]<br />
<br />
Diameter of Glass Bead: 2.3mm +-0.2mm<br />
<br />
Length of Glass Bead: 4.1mm +-0.5mm<br />
<br />
Lead Length: 67mm +-0.5mm<br />
<br />
Lead Diameter: 0.3mm<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Recommended Beta: 4066<br />
<br />
If using Sprinter firmware, select temperature table #1.<br />
<br />
<br />
<nowiki><br />
#define NUMTEMPS 61<br />
<br />
short temptable[][2] = {<br />
<br />
{ 23 , 300 },<br />
<br />
{ 25 , 295 },<br />
<br />
{ 27 , 290 },<br />
<br />
{ 28 , 285 },<br />
<br />
{ 31 , 280 },<br />
<br />
{ 33 , 275 },<br />
<br />
{ 35 , 270 },<br />
<br />
{ 38 , 265 },<br />
<br />
{ 41 , 260 },<br />
<br />
{ 44 , 255 },<br />
<br />
{ 48 , 250 },<br />
<br />
{ 52 , 245 },<br />
<br />
{ 56 , 240 },<br />
<br />
{ 61 , 235 },<br />
<br />
{ 66 , 230 },<br />
<br />
{ 71 , 225 },<br />
<br />
{ 78 , 220 },<br />
<br />
{ 84 , 215 },<br />
<br />
{ 92 , 210 },<br />
<br />
{ 100 , 205 },<br />
<br />
{ 109 , 200 },<br />
<br />
{ 120 , 195 },<br />
<br />
{ 131 , 190 },<br />
<br />
{ 143 , 185 },<br />
<br />
{ 156 , 180 },<br />
<br />
{ 171 , 175 },<br />
<br />
{ 187 , 170 },<br />
<br />
{ 205 , 165 },<br />
<br />
{ 224 , 160 },<br />
<br />
{ 245 , 155 },<br />
<br />
{ 268 , 150 },<br />
<br />
{ 293 , 145 },<br />
<br />
{ 320 , 140 },<br />
<br />
{ 348 , 135 },<br />
<br />
{ 379 , 130 },<br />
<br />
{ 411 , 125 },<br />
<br />
{ 445 , 120 },<br />
<br />
{ 480 , 115 },<br />
<br />
{ 516 , 110 },<br />
<br />
{ 553 , 105 },<br />
<br />
{ 591 , 100 },<br />
<br />
{ 628 , 95 },<br />
<br />
{ 665 , 90 },<br />
<br />
{ 702 , 85 },<br />
<br />
{ 737 , 80 },<br />
<br />
{ 770 , 75 },<br />
<br />
{ 801 , 70 },<br />
<br />
{ 830 , 65 },<br />
<br />
{ 857 , 60 },<br />
<br />
{ 881 , 55 },<br />
<br />
{ 903 , 50 },<br />
<br />
{ 922 , 45 },<br />
<br />
{ 939 , 40 },<br />
<br />
{ 954 , 35 },<br />
<br />
{ 966 , 30 },<br />
<br />
{ 977 , 25 },<br />
<br />
{ 985 , 20 },<br />
<br />
{ 993 , 15 },<br />
<br />
{ 999 , 10 },<br />
<br />
{ 1004 , 5 },<br />
<br />
{ 1008 , 0 }<br />
<br />
};<br />
</nowiki><br />
<br />
=====Thermistor 5=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_thermistor2.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Part Number: 104GT-2<br />
<br />
Manufacturer: Semitec<br />
<br />
Description: NTC 100k ohm 3% <br />
<br />
Tolerance: 3%<br />
<br />
Data Sheet: [http://www.semitec-usa.com/downloads/gtthermistor.pdf High Heat-Resistance and High Sensitive Thermistor] <br />
<br />
Diameter of Glass Bead: 1.35mm +-0.15mm<br />
<br />
Length of Glass Bead: 3mm +-1mm<br />
<br />
Lead Length: 45mm +-1mm<br />
<br />
Lead Diameter: 0.15mm to 0.18mm<br />
<br />
If using Sprinter firmware, select temperature table #5.<br />
<br />
<br />
====Ceramic Heater Cartridge====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_heater_cartridge.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Assembly==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Photo Series with detailed assembly instructions for current version of JHead===<br />
<br />
wiki.openhardware.co.za/index.php/Assembly_and_Wiring_of_a_J-Head_Hotend<br />
<br />
[[File:Checkjhead.jpg|150px]]<br />
[[File:Kaptonleg2.jpg|150px]]<br />
[[File:Insertresistor.jpg|150px]]<br />
[[File:Tapetherm.jpg|150px]]<br />
[[File:Donejhead.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Full instructions posted on the OpenHardware.co.za Wiki: http://wiki.openhardware.co.za/index.php/Assembly_and_Wiring_of_a_J-Head_Hotend<br />
<br />
===Mk I===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_assembly.jpg|400px]] [[File:Jhn_assembled_w_washer.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
# Secure the brass nozzle in a vise by the heater section.<br />
# Optionally, install the support washer. If the support washer is to be used, drill the appropriate holes for the support rods prior to installation. (Note: The above pictures do not have holes drilled as it is possible that the hole locations could vary.)<br />
# Screw the nozzle holder down into the nozzle. If necessary, use a pair of pliers to tighten the nozzle. The nozzle holder can be protected from the pliers by first wrapping it with a rag or paper towel.<br />
# Using a dental pick, straightened out paper clip, small screw driver, etc., ensure that the nozzle holder is screwed down all the way by feeling for an internal gap between the brass and the nozzle holder. If a gap can be felt, screw the nozzle holder even tighter. If there is a gap, the PTFE liner can "flow" into the gap and eventually cause the print head to fail.<br />
# Slide the PTFE liner down into the thermal barrier. The liner must be inserted by the tapered end and it is important that the tapered end is in contact with the inside of the tip of the nozzle.<br />
# Cut the top end of the PTFE liner with a razor knife. It should project out of the nozzle holder slightly to ensure that the extruder keeps the PTFE liner from backing out.<br />
<br />
===Mk II===<br />
<br />
<br />
# Secure the brass nozzle in a vise by the heater section.<br />
# Optional: Install the support washer. If the support washer is to be used, drill the appropriate holes for the support rods prior to installation. (Note: The above pictures do not have holes drilled as it is possible that the hole locations could vary.)<br />
# Screw the nozzle holder down onto the nozzle. If no flats are milled, use a pair of pliers to tighten the nozzle. The nozzle holder can be protected from the pliers by first wrapping it with a rag or paper towel. If there are flats milled, a 13mm (1/2") open-end wrench can be used to tighten the nozzle.<br />
# Using a dental pick, straightened out paper clip, small screw driver, etc., ensure that the nozzle holder is screwed down all the way by feeling for an internal gap between the brass and the nozzle holder. If a gap can be felt, screw the nozzle holder even tighter. If there is a gap, the PTFE liner can "flow" into the gap and eventually cause the print head to fail.<br />
# Slide the PTFE liner down into the nozzle holder. The liner must be inserted by the tapered end and it is important that the tapered end is in contact with the inside of the tip of the nozzle.<br />
## If the optional melt chamber has been added, to the nozzle, the PTFE will not make contact with the tip. Instead, it will make contact with the top edge of the melt chamber.<br />
## If the PTFE liner doesn't seem to be seating properly, it may be because the PTFE liner is getting hung up on the inside edge of the brass nozzle. Follow the following directions:<br />
### Unscrew the brass nozzle from the PEEK nozzle holder.<br />
### Install the PTFE liner so that about 1/2 of it is sticking out the hot end of the PEEK nozzle holder.<br />
### Screw the PEEK nozzle holder onto the brass nozzle. The PTFE liner will be pushed back as you push and screw the assembly together.<br />
### You may need to follow this sub-set of directions after you have marked and cut the PTFE liner to the correct length. <br />
# With a razor knife, mark the PTFE liner where it is flush with the top of the nozzle holder.<br />
# Remove the PTFE liner.<br />
# From the mark, use a razor knife to cut the PTFE liner about 5/32" towards the tapered end.<br />
# Optional: Chuck the liner in a lathe and face-off the cold end of the liner. Then, using a center drill, make a slight internal taper in the end of the liner. <br />
# Slide the PTFE liner back down into the thermal barrier.<br />
# Screw in the hollow-lock socket set screw. It will need to be lightly tightened. Over-tightening may result in the PTFE liner becoming distorted.<br />
<br />
===Mk III===<br />
<br />
<br />
# Install the heat-sink. The heat-sink will probably need to be pressed in place. Care must be taken to ensure that the heat-sink liner passage is properly aligned with the nozzle holder liner passage. After the heat-sink is installed, ensure that the liner passage is clear of any debris.<br />
# Secure the aluminum nozzle in a vise by the heater section.<br />
# Optionally, install the support washer. If the support washer is to be used, drill the appropriate holes for the support rods prior to installation. (Note: The above pictures do not have holes drilled as it is possible that the hole locations could vary.)<br />
# Screw the nozzle holder down onto the nozzle. If necessary, use a pair of pliers to tighten the nozzle. The nozzle holder can be protected from the pliers by first wrapping it with a rag or paper towel.<br />
# Using a dental pick, straightened out paper clip, small screw driver, etc., ensure that the nozzle holder is screwed down all the way by feeling for an internal gap between the brass and the nozzle holder. If a gap can be felt, screw the nozzle holder even tighter. If there is a gap, the PTFE liner can "flow" into the gap and eventually cause the print head to fail.<br />
# Slide the PTFE liner down into the nozzle holder. The liner must be inserted by the tapered end and it is important that the tapered end is in contact with the inside of the tip of the nozzle.<br />
# With a razor knife, mark the PTFE liner where it is flush with the top of the nozzle holder.<br />
# Remove the PTFE liner.<br />
# From the mark, use a razor knife to cut the PTFE liner about 5/32" towards the tapered end. <br />
# Slide the PTFE liner back down into the thermal barrier.<br />
# Screw in the hollow-lock socket set screw. It will need to be lightly tightened. Over-tightening may result in the PTFE liner becoming distorted.<br />
<br />
===Mk IV===<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The assembly instructions are identical to those of the Mk II.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
===Mk V===<br />
<br />
<br />
# Secure the brass nozzle in a vise by the heater section.<br />
# Wrap a couple of turns of PTFE tape (plumbing tape) around the brass threads.<br />
# Screw the nozzle holder down onto the nozzle. If no flats are milled, use a pair of pliers to tighten the nozzle. The nozzle holder can be protected from the pliers by first wrapping it with a rag or paper towel. If there are flats milled, a 13mm (1/2") open-end wrench can be used to tighten the nozzle.<br />
# Remove the brass nozzle from the vise.<br />
# Slide the PTFE liner down into the nozzle holder. The PTFE liner needs to be inserted such that the flat end is making contact with the brass and the internally tapered end is towards the top.<br />
# Install the washer.<br />
# Screw in the hollow-lock socket set screw. Ensure that the washer stays centered while tightening this set screw. Use a piece of filament to ensure that the set screw is not too tight as the liner can become compressed and obstruct the passage. If this happens, slightly loosen the set screw.<br />
<br />
===Heater Resistor===<br />
<br />
The heater resistor can be installed one of 3 ways:<br />
<br />
# Put a little bit of muffler repair putty on the resistor and slide it into the hole. It can be cured by letting it set a couple hours before bringing the hot-end up to temperature.<br />
# Slide the heater resistor in the hole. If it fits tightly, this will work. If there is any gap, between the resistor and brass, it may result in failure of the heater resistor.<br />
# Wrap a thin strip of aluminum foil around the heater resistor and adjust it by gradually cutting it shorter until the resistor and file slide it into. Care must be taken to ensure that the proper amount of aluminum foil is used in order to take up any gap between the heater resistor and the brass.<br />
<br />
===Thermistor===<br />
<br />
Note: The thermistor table, for Thermistor 1, is [http://reprap.org/wiki/J_Head_Nozzle#Thermistor here].<br />
<br />
# Insulate the leads to the thermistor. This is usually accomplished one of two ways.<br />
## Use Kapton tape as insulation by separating the leads and sandwiching the leads in-between two strips of Kapton tape.<br />
## Use PTFE insulation and slide it over each lead.<br />
# Place the thermistor in its hole and secure it with Kapton tape.<br />
<br />
==Installation==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Using the Mounting Holes in the Wade Extruder===<br />
[[Wade's_Geared_Extruder | Wade Extruder]]<br />
<br />
# Insert the nozzle holder in the 5/8 inch (16mm) hot-end socket.<br />
# Using a sharp instrument or other object, mark the 4 hole locations on the nozzle holder.<br />
# Remove the nozzle holder.<br />
# Using a round file, file the mounting grooves in the nozzle holder in order to create 2 grooves for the mounting screws or bolts to pass through.<br />
# Install the hot end.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Using The Support Washer===<br />
<br />
Note: The support washer cannot be used for hot-ends starting with the Mk V.<br />
<br />
# Prior to installing the optional support washer, mark and drill the appropriate mounting holes on the support washer.<br />
# Install the optional support washer in between the J-Head Nozzle and the nozzle holder.<br />
# Use the support rods, screws, and/or washers to hold the hot-end in place.<br />
<br />
===Using Wire With The Support Washer=== <br />
[http://suddendevelopment.com/?p=123 Example]<br />
<br />
# Cut 4 evenly-spaced slots in the support washer.<br />
# Run the wire into the channels.<br />
# Tighten the wire vertically and diagonally. Then wrap wire around the middle tightly, tightening all of the vertical and diagonal runs.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Using A Mounting Groove===<br />
<br />
<br />
Use a nozzle holder that is machined with the optional mounting groove and a cold-end that is designed for using a mounting groove or an adapter plate [[Mounting_plate | adapter plate]] for a mounting groove. In this configuration, a mounting groove is normally required.<br />
<br />
===Wildseyed Simple Hot End Mounting System===<br />
Note: Ensure that the cold-end either has a 5/8" mounting hole or can be drilled out to 5/8".<br />
<br />
Follow the mounting instructions for the [[Wildseyed_Simple_Hot_End#Step_Eight_-_The_Mounting| Wildseyed Simple Hot End]].<br />
<br />
<br />
==Notes==<br />
<br />
<br />
===General===<br />
<br />
# In the Mk1 version, the cold-end of the PTFE liner will need to be retained in order to prevent it from backing out of the hot-end. With some extruders, such as the [[Wade's_Geared_Extruder| Wade Extruder]], the PTFE liner will easily be retained by the socket that retains the hot-end. If the liner is not properly retained, there is a high probability of the nozzle developing a leak.<br />
# While printing ABS, if the nozzle clogs due to crystalized filament the temperature is most likely too high.<br />
# Either black or tan PEEK can be used for the nozzle holders. Black PEEK is usually used as it looks nicer. However, sometimes suppliers are out of black PEEK and tan PEEK has to be substituted.<br />
# When using a hot-end, with a vented PEEK nozzle holder (i.e. Mk IV-B), it is critical that the milled vents are not obstructed in any way. These vents are used to cool the hot-end by both removing as much PEEK as possible, to prevent the liner from being insulated, and to allow air to blow through and cool the hot-end. If these vents are obstructed (i.e. taped over), it is quite possible that PLA will jam in the hot-end.<br />
<br />
===Nozzle Orifice===<br />
<br />
====Drill bit sizes and conversions====<br />
<br />
As drill bits usually drill holes slightly larger than their rated size, the following drill bits are used to drill out the orifice of J-Head nozzles:<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Rated Size'''<br />
|'''SAE Drill Bit Used'''<br />
|'''Actual Metric Size'''<br />
|-<br />
|0.25mm<br />
|0.0098<br />
|0.2489<br />
|-<br />
|0.30mm<br />
|0.0118<br />
|0.2997 <br />
|-<br />
|0.35mm<br />
|0.0135<br />
|0.343<br />
|-<br />
|0.40mm<br />
|0.0157<br />
|0.399<br />
|-<br />
|0.50mm<br />
|0.0189<br />
|0.480<br />
|-<br />
|0.60mm<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|0.70mm<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|0.75mm<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|0.80mm<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|0.90mm<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|1.00mm<br />
|N/A<br />
|1.00 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
# More sizes will be added as they become available.<br />
# Smaller drill bits are used in order to keep the orifice size within the rated size and to increase the lifespan of the nozzle by ensuring that the orifice size will "wear to size" in the event that the orifice is slightly enlarged for any reason. (i.e. by cleaning with a piece of thin wire).<br />
<br />
====Nozzle orifice length====<br />
# Mk IV hot-ends (up to the middle of May 2012), and earlier models, had a nozzle orifice length of approximately 1.25mm.<br />
# Mk IV hot-ends (after the middle of May 2012) and Mk V hot-ends have a nozzle orifice length of approximately 0.50mm. <br />
<br />
Note: Due to the nature of 5c collets, the nozzle orifice length can vary as much as 0.25mm.<br />
<br />
===Troubleshooting===<br />
# PEEK appears to have a maximum temperature of 248 degrees C. If the nozzle pushes out of the PEEK nozzle holder, this temperature was most likely exceeded.<br />
# If the nozzle is leaking, between the PEEK nozzle holder and the brass nozzle, check to see if the hollow set-screw is snug. This set-screw is located at the cold end and retains the liner. Wrapping PTFE tape, around the brass threads, will help to eliminate leaks as well.<br />
# It is possible for the PTFE liner to impede the filament path if the hollow set-screw is too tight. This is because of the taper at the hot end of the PTFE liner.<br />
# Ensure that the thermistor value is set to "1".<br />
# In the event that the extruder is not feeding correctly, loosen up the pinch wheel and ensure that the filament can be fed by hand. Also, if possible, independently verify the temperature of the hot-end.<br />
# If a cooling fan is blowing directly on a non-insulated nozzle, it is possible to have an uneven temperature on either side of the brass nozzle/heater. Under the right conditions, this can cause a condition where the temperature is correct, on one side, and too high, on the other. To resolve this problem, either insulate the brass or direct the airflow away from the brass.<br />
<br />
===Testing===<br />
<br />
====Prototype====<br />
<br />
# While this nozzle is experimental, initial tests have proven to be very positive. At the time this note was added, the prototype had printed for well over 20 hours.<br />
# Further testing indicates that it is critical that the internal gap, between the brass and the PEEK, is completely eliminated. If there is a gap, the PTFE will tend to "flow" into the gap and create a place for the filament to form a plug.<br />
# Since this nozzle, internally, is similar to the Makerbot Mk V, testing indicates that it is probably a good idea to taper the PTFE at the hot-end of the nozzle.<br />
# Testing of units with the internal gap, at the joint of the PEEK and the brass, have resulted in early failure. Replacing the PTFE liner would allow the nozzle to continue printing.<br />
# Even with the internal gap, after two weeks the the initial prototype nozzle is still working.<br />
# After almost a month, the initial prototype nozzle is still working. Due to the gap problem, it needs to have the PTFE liner replaced around once a week.<br />
<br />
====Mk I====<br />
<br />
# Initial testing of a nozzle, with the internal gap problem resolved, is very positive.<br />
# A nozzle has been successfully tested extruding PLA.<br />
# Some reservations have been expressed regarding the mounting of the nozzle. (Maybe the fender washer should be the recommended method or another method should be devised?)<br />
# Extruding PLA can result in an early failure of the PTFE liner. This failure has been prevented by both increasing the feed rate of the filament and using a cooling fan. This is to keep the filament from getting to hot too high up in the liner. A heat-sink may be required in order to provide a more adequate solution.<br />
# Due to this nozzle successfully printing both ABS and PLA, this entry has been updated to "working".<br />
<br />
====Mk I with Heat Sink====<br />
<br />
# Nozzles, with the experimental heat-sink, have been printing successfully. At this time, none have been reported to have printed PLA.<br />
# The experimental heat-sink has shown to help considerably when printing with PLA. The configuration, that worked best, had the heat-sink with a fan providing active cooling. The air, from the fan, was directed to blow over the heat-sink and not the nozzle itself.<br />
# When printing 3mm PLA, the heat-sink has proven to be very consistent and reliable.<br />
<br />
====Mk III-B====<br />
<br />
# PLA has been printed with a 0.70mm nozzle. However, there isn't enough heat provided by the heater resistor so the print speed has to be kept down. As a result, there is not advantage using a 0.70mm nozzle over a 0.50mm nozzle when printing with PLA.<br />
<br />
====Mk IV Original Prototype====<br />
# The version 3 nozzle, with a 6.8 ohm resistor, was used for testing.<br />
# PLA has been printed with an airflow directed through the milled vents.<br />
<br />
====Mk V-B====<br />
# PLA has been printed successfully.<br />
# ABS has been printed successfully.<br />
# Some leakage has been reported when printing PLA. However, as long as the hollow set-screw is very tight, it isn't a problem. As "insurance", it is recommended to seal the brass threads with PTFE tape.<br />
<br />
====Experimental Light-Weight Hot End====<br />
<br />
# An experimental hot-end was built with a fluted nozzle holder and an aluminum nozzle (v2). A 1.75mm liner was installed and it was sent out for testing.<br />
# With a fan, to provide cooling, this nozzle has successfully printed 1.75mm PLA.<br />
# The light-weight aluminum nozzle should be insulated in order to maintain the proper temperature.<br />
# This nozzle leaked. This was most likely due to the lack of a retainer for the 1.75mm liner.<br />
<br />
====Thermally Fused Hot-End====<br />
<br />
# An experimental brass nozzle was machined that would accommodate a thermal fuse.<br />
# If a heater resistor were to be wired in series with the thermal fuse, the theory is that the thermal fuse would break the circuit to prevent the PEEK from melting. This would be ideal in the event of a thermistor failure.<br />
# A static test was successful, however, thermal fuses are not yet readily available in the required temperature range.<br />
<br />
===Possible Future Modifications===<br />
<br />
====Implemented Or Working====<br />
<br />
# If the extruder will not retain the PTFE liner, it may be possible to install a 5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw (McMaster-Carr part number 91318A550 or 91301A150) in the cold-end of the nozzle holder. (This has been implemented in the MK II.)<br />
# Using 5/8 x 1/2 inch rectangular brass bar stock, instead of 5/8 inch square bar stock, will eliminate 1 machining operation, slightly reduce the cost of the raw materials, and may reduce the machining time for other operations as there will be less material to remove.<br />
# Either the total length should be increased or two versions should be made available. The longer version would have a 50mm thermal barrier and the liner (for the MK I) should have an initial length of 3 1/2 inches.<br />
# A groove-mount design could be created. However, a hollow-lock socket set screw (above) or a custom hollow set screw would have to be used to retain the liner. (The nozzle holder blueprint has been updated to include this option.)<br />
# Add a starting taper to the cold end of the PTFE liner. (This has been implemented in the MK II.)<br />
# A heat-sink option could be added to the nozzle holder.<br />
# It may be possible to convert this extruder to 1.75mm by replacing the PTFE tubing with a piece of 1/4" PTFE that has been drilled out to 1.75mm. (This has been proven to work.)<br />
# Use an aluminum nozzle made out of a high-strength aluminum alloy, such as 2024 or 7075. This should lighten the nozzle as well as improve the thermal conductivity of the nozzle. (Depending upon the alloy, the thermal conductivity, can be more than twice that of brass and an aluminum nozzle should be around 1/3rd the weight of a brass nozzle.)<br />
# Turn the center of the nozzle holder down to 12mm and add fluting in order to provide cooling and weight reduction.<br />
# Change to the 6.8 ohm heater resistor. The 6.8 ohm heater resistor has a smaller OD and, as a result, the heater block size could be reduced. (A prototype has been machined. Since it fits in a 13mm x 13mm piece of bar-stock, it is worth pursuing. The prototype weighs 3.1 grams.)<br />
# Cut grooves in the nozzle holder to help keep the nozzle holder cold at the cold-end. (Grooves, with supports have been milled in a test nozzle holder.)<br />
# Shorten the brass nozzle and reduce the number of threads. This will result in there being less brass to heat up and the heat-sink could be moved closer to the hot-end. (The threaded end, of the MK V, has been reduced to 0.500" from 0.560".)<br />
<br />
====Testing Phase====<br />
<br />
====Under Consideration====<br />
<br />
# Use an axial thermistor installed in a through-hole. (Due to the limited amount of brass, in the J-Head Mk V-B, an axial thermistor cannot be installed properly and efficiently without a re-design of the nozzle.)<br />
# Add a thermal fuse to prevent the PEEK from melting in the event of a thermistor (or other) failure. (See testing notes, above.)<br />
<br />
====Rejected====<br />
<br />
Note: Rejected ideas may be re-visited in the future.<br />
<br />
# Add the capability to mount a thermocouple.<br />
# Improve the thermistor mounting by adding a clamp or retaining system.<br />
# Add shallow grooves, in the PEEK over the end with the 3/8-24 threads. This will add more surface area to the PEEK and may help with the cooling of the nozzle holder.<br />
<br />
<br />
====Miscellaneous====<br />
<br />
# A [[Mini_J_Head_Nozzle | Mini J-Head nozzle ]] design has been started. This design is a heavily modified version of the J-Head Nozzle. <br />
# This design could be scaled down to create a mini version using a 4mm OD and 2mm ID PTFE sleeve. (See the [[Mini_J_Head_Nozzle | Mini J-Head nozzle ]].)<br />
<br />
===Weights===<br />
<br />
Note: All weights include the heater and heat sensor unless otherwise noted. Weights may vary slightly from what is listed.<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Hot-End'''<br />
|'''Weight'''<br />
|'''Notes'''<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk II<br />
|27.1 grams<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk II<br />
|17 grams<br />
|Using nozzle v2.<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk III<br />
|21.9 grams<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk III-B<br />
|30.0 grams<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk IV<br />
|16.8 grams<br />
|With nozzle v2, optional improvements, and v4 50mm nozzle holder<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk IV-B<br />
|25.6 grams<br />
|With nozzle v1 and v4 50mm nozzle holder.<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk IV-B<br />
|26.5 grams<br />
|With nozzle v1, it's optional improvements, and v4 50mm nozzle holder.<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk V<br />
|12.8 grams<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk V-B<br />
|20.5 grams<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|J-Head, Experimental Fluted<br />
|14.7 grams<br />
|With nozzle v2 and fluted nozzle holder. <br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|Geared Extruder Nozzle<br />
|29.7 grams<br />
|Original design with aluminum heater block and without hardware. <br />
|-<br />
|ParCan v2<br />
|27.5 grams<br />
| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Working Examples==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Pictures===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_prototype_test_a.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
First prototype in action.<br />
(Photo provided by Brian Briggs.)<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_pla_test.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
A test print using PLA. A high filament speed was used and there was little tuning of Skeinforge as the goal was to see if the nozzle would print with PLA. (Photo provided by Anthony Aragues.)<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_w_heat_sink_printing_pla_gear_s.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
A five hour print, of a gear, in PLA. A J-Head nozzle (Mk I), with an aluminum heat sink, was used. Please note the cooling fan configuration. (Photo provided by Anthony Aragues.)<br />
<br />
[[File:J-Head-Mk-IV-B.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
J-Head Mk IV-B thermsistor wiring<br />
(Photo provided by MotoBarsteward.)<br />
<br />
[[File:J-Head-Mk-IV-B-wiring.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
J-Head Mk IV-B resistor wiring<br />
(Photo provided by MotoBarsteward.)<br />
<br />
<br />
Note: Updated pictures - [[User:Remondo|Remondo]] 00:28, 8 June 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
===Videos===<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWRLJOm1do8 Printing A Gear]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=J_Head_Nozzle&diff=96983J Head Nozzle2013-06-30T17:36:34Z<p>Peter6960: /* Assembly */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = J-Head Nozzle<br />
|image = Jhn_mk5.jpg<br />
|status = working<br />
|description = J-Head Nozzle and Thermal Barrier Based on a combination of ideas from the Makerbot Mk 5 hot end, The Inline Heater Variation, some ideas from Brian Briggs, and some ideas from me.<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = Reifsnyderb<br />
|reprap = Extruder Nozzle Variations<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Hot End|Hot End]][[Category:Hot End]], [[:Category:Extruders|Extruders]][[Category:Extruders]]<br />
|version = 1.0<br />
|url = [http://jheadnozzle.blogspot.com Blog]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==Introduction==<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzles.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
This nozzle is a combination of ideas from other nozzle designs combined with a goal to reduce the number of custom machined parts to a bare minimum. By reducing the number of machined parts, it is hoped that the cost of this hot-end can be kept down while improving the reliability.<br />
<br />
The use of a machined piece of round PTFE, as a liner, was requested in one of two designs by Brian Briggs. <br />
<br />
The idea of using the [[PTFE]] tubing as a liner, from the [[:Category:Cold End|Cold End]] to the tip, was borrowed from the Makerbot Mk V extruder design.<br />
<br />
The PTFE tubing also acts to "bridge" the joint between the [[PEEK]] insulator and the [[brass]] nozzle/heater. By not having the [[filament]] in contact with this joint it is hoped that any possibility of leakage will be completely eliminated.<br />
<br />
The use of a combination heater and nozzle was borrowed from [[User:ParCan|ParCan's]] [[Extruder_Nozzle_Variations#Inline_Heater_-_Variation| Inline Heater Nozzle Variation]]. However, instead of the heater resistor being mounted parallel to the path of the filament it is mounted perpendicular to the path of the filament. This was done to both reduce the length of the nozzle and to make it a little easier to run the leads from the heater resistor. Combining the heater and nozzle also helped to meet the goal to keep the number of custom machined parts to a minimum.<br />
<br />
'''Advantages'''<br />
* Internally, the filament path is identical to that of an already proven design.<br />
* The design is simple as the number of custom machined parts is kept to a minimum.<br />
* If necessary, the PTFE liner can be replaced by using an off-the-shelf piece of PTFE tubing.<br />
* The PTFE is not stressed nor used to provide support. This reduces a point of failure that is part of other designs.<br />
* A resistor is used as a heater. There is no need to wrap nichrome wire or to bake a heater core.<br />
* Heat transmission is improved as there is no thermal junction where a separate heater screws onto the nozzle.<br />
* With most versions weighing in at under 25 grams and the lightest version weighing in at under 13 grams, this design is very light.<br />
<br />
'''Disadvantages'''<br />
* Considerable machining is required.<br />
<br />
==Suppliers==<br />
<br />
* [http://www.hotends.com HotEnds.com]<br />
* [http://www.charlies3dtechnologies.eu Charlie's 3D Technologies]<br />
* [http://www.makerfarm.com MakerFarm.com]<br />
* [http://www.creativemachines.co.uk Creative Machines]<br />
* [http://www.emakershop.com eMakerShop]<br />
* [http://www.reprap-usa.com RepRap-USA]<br />
* [http://www.reprapsource.com reprapsource]<br />
* [http://www.plastic2print.com/en/j-head-hotends.html Plastic2Print Europe]<br />
* [http://www.reprap-france.com/ eMotion Tech reprap-france.com]<br />
* [http://www.ultibots.com/hot-ends Ultibots Hot Ends]<br />
<br />
==Parts List==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Mk I===<br />
<br />
Summary: First J-Head hot-end.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk1.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v1.x)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 1.x<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v1)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 1.x<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Support Washer <br />
|Optional 1/2" Fender Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91090A114<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk II===<br />
<br />
Summary: Added a hollow set-screw to retain the PTFE liner.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk2.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v1.x)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 1.x<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v2)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 2<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Support Washer <br />
|Optional 1/2" Fender Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91090A114<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk III===<br />
<br />
Summary: Added a heat sink in order to print PLA. To reduce weight, an aluminum nozzle is used.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk3.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v2)<br />
|Machined Aluminum Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 2<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v3)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 3<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heat Sink<br />
|Machined Aluminum Heat Sink<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Support Washer <br />
|Optional 1/2" Fender Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91090A114<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk III-B===<br />
<br />
Summary: Added a heat sink in order to print PLA.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk3_b_pic.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v1.x)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 1.x<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v3)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 3<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heat Sink (v1)<br />
|Machined Aluminum Heat Sink, Version 1<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Support Washer <br />
|Optional 1/2" Fender Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91090A114<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk IV===<br />
<br />
Summary: Removed the heat sink and added a series of vents to provide cooling. To reduce weight, an aluminum nozzle is used.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk4.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v2)<br />
|Machined Aluminum Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 2<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v4)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 4<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Support Washer <br />
|Optional 1/2" Fender Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91090A114<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk IV-B===<br />
<br />
Summary: Removed the heat sink and added a series of vents to provide cooling.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk4_b.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v1.x)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 1.x<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v4)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 4<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Support Washer <br />
|Optional 1/2" Fender Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91090A114<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk V===<br />
<br />
Summary: Reduced the size and increased the length of the melt zone. To reduce weight, an aluminum nozzle is used.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk5.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v5)<br />
|Machined Aluminum Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 5<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v5)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 5<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Flat Washer <br />
|1/4" OD Flat Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 98032A436<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk V-B===<br />
<br />
Summary: Reduced the size and increased the length of the melt zone.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk5b.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v4)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 4<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v5)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 5<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v1)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 1<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 1<br />
|EPCOS 100K<br />
|B57560G104F<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Flat Washer <br />
|1/4" OD Flat Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 98032A436<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk V-BV===<br />
<br />
Summary: As the old thermistor was discontinued, the Semitec thermistor was substituted.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk5bv.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v4.1)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 4<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v5)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 5<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v2)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 2<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Heater Resistor<br />
|Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
|UB5C-5.6-ND<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Thermistor 5<br />
|Semitec<br />
|104GT-2 <br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Flat Washer <br />
|1/4" OD Flat Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 98032A436<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk VI-B===<br />
<br />
Summary: Uses a heater cartridge and two thermistors. If the firmware (Marlin) is properly configured, and the thermistors are not reporting the same temperature, the firmware will turn off the heater cartridge.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk6b.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v4.2)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 4.2<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v5)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 5<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v2)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 2<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Ceramic Heater Cartridge<br />
|12V, 30W, 15mm long, 6mm diameter <br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|2<br />
|Thermistor 5<br />
|Semitec<br />
|104GT-2 <br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Set Screw<br />
|4-40 Set Screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] part num. coming soon<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|4-40 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] part num. coming soon<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Flat Washer <br />
|1/4" OD Flat Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 98032A436<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mk VII-B===<br />
<br />
Summary: New nozzle holder design.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_mk6b.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Quantity'''<br />
|'''Part'''<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|J-Head Nozzle (v4.2)<br />
|Machined Brass Nozzle/Heater Combination, Version 4.2<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Nozzle Holder (v6)<br />
|Machined PEEK Nozzle Holder, Version 6<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|PTFE liner (v2)<br />
|1/8" ID, 1/4" OD PTFE tubing, Version 2<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5033K31<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Ceramic Heater Cartridge<br />
|12V, 30W, 15mm long, 6mm diameter <br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|2<br />
|Thermistor 5<br />
|Semitec<br />
|104GT-2 <br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Set Screw<br />
|4-40 Set Screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] part num. coming soon<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|4-40 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] part num. coming soon<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Hollow-lock socket set screw <br />
|5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 91301A150<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|Flat Washer <br />
|1/4" OD Flat Washer<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 98032A436<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Sundries===<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Description'''<br />
|'''Part Number'''<br />
|'''Notes'''<br />
|-<br />
|PTFE Insulation For EPCOS or Semitec Thermistor, 0.012" ID<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5335K9<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|PTFE Insulation For Heater Resistor, 0.047" ID<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 5335K15<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|20 AWG High Temperature Wire<br />
|[http://www.mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr] 8209K11<br />
|<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Note: *A good drill-chart for anyone with plans to make one can be found here http://whatisacnc.com/index.php?cID=241<br />
<br />
==Parts Descriptions==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Machined Parts===<br />
<br />
<br />
====J-Head Nozzle====<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_machining.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=====Version 1=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_ver1.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_md_brass_heater_nozzle.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
Material: Brass Bar Stock, 5/8" Square Or 5/8" x 1/2" Rectangular, 1.125" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 11.1 grams<br />
<br />
Note: These instructions differ from the machining example displayed in the above picture and are only one example of how the nozzle can be machined. The machining process can vary depending upon available machinery and tooling. The minimum machining requirements are a metal lathe with a 4-jaw independent chuck.<br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of brass bar stock 1.125" long plus enough to adequately hold the stock in the lathe.<br />
# On the brass bar stock, find the center of the axis of the nozzle. This can be done by various means ranging from using a milling machine to using marking fluid, a height gauge, and a surface plate.<br />
# Mount the brass bar stock in a 4-jaw chuck on a lathe. Adjust the chuck so that the nozzle axis is on center.<br />
# Turn the threaded end of the nozzle down to 0.375 +0.000 -0.004.<br />
# Thread the nozzle to 3/8-24 up to the shoulder of the heater section.<br />
# Drill out the center of the nozzle using a 6.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Turn off the last 3 threads, at the end of the nozzle, and cleanup the threads.<br />
# Cut a 30 degree taper on the very end of the threaded end of the brass nozzle. This is to completely eliminate the internal gap between the brass nozzle and the PEEK thermal barrier. This gap would exist due to the internal taper created by the cutting edge of the drill bit.<br />
# Remove the work piece and mount it by the threaded end so that the threaded end is centered in the lathe.<br />
# Cut-off any excess material.<br />
# Machine the nozzle tip to the desired profile.<br />
# Drill the nozzle orifice.<br />
# Mill or turn off the excess material in the heater section. This can be accomplished by mounting the nozzle in the 4-jaw chuck sideways so that the excess material is presented for machining. If available, a milling machine can also be used. (If a 5/8" x 1/2" piece of bar stock is used, this step will be skipped.)<br />
# Using a letter size A drill bit, drill out the hole for the heater resistor.<br />
# Drill out the hole for the thermistor.<br />
<br />
=====Version 1.1=====<br />
<br />
Material: Brass Bar Stock, 5/8" Square Or 5/8" x 1/2" Rectangular, 1.125" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 14.4 grams w/optional improvements<br />
<br />
With the exception of the following changes, the dimensions are identical to Version 1 of the J-Head Nozzle. These changes were implemented in early December of 2011.<br />
<br />
# Melt Chamber: Drill out the internal cavity to a depth of 0.560 with the 6.5mm drill bit. Finish drilling the internal cavity with a 3.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Nozzle Orifice Spout Diameter: Reduce the diameter of the nozzle orifice spout from 0.080 to 0.050. This will reduce the size of the tip that can catch on the print.<br />
# Start of Nozzle Orifice Taper: Start the taper at 0.050 from the heater block section. This will add room for optional insulation.<br />
<br />
=====Version 2=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_ver2.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
Material: Aluminum Bar Stock, 5/8" Square Or 5/8" x 1/2" Rectangular, 1.125" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 3.8 grams<br />
<br />
Note: The primary reason for using aluminum is to save weight. The alloy should be 2024, 7075, or a similar harder, high quality, alloy. Softer alloys, such as 6061, are not recommended.<br />
<br />
The blueprint and instructions are identical to Version 1 of the J-Head Nozzle.<br />
<br />
=====Version 3=====<br />
<br />
Material: Aluminum (2024 or 7075) Bar Stock, 1/2" Square, 1.000" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: Unknown<br />
<br />
(Instructions are incomplete at this time.)<br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of aluminum bar stock 1.000" long plus enough to adequately hold the stock in the lathe.<br />
# On the aluminum bar stock, find the center of the axis of the nozzle. This can be done by various means ranging from using a milling machine to using marking fluid, a height gauge, and a surface plate.<br />
# Mount the brass bar stock in a 4-jaw chuck on a lathe. Adjust the chuck so that the nozzle axis is on center.<br />
# Turn the threaded end of the nozzle down to 0.375 +0.000 -0.004. The threaded end will be 0.500" long.<br />
# Thread the nozzle to 3/8-24 up to the shoulder of the heater section.<br />
# Drill out the center of the nozzle, to a depth of 0.500", using a 6.5mm drill bit. The depth will be measured from the side of the hole.<br />
# Drill out the melt chamber using a 3.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Turn off the last 3 threads, at the end of the nozzle, and cleanup the threads.<br />
# Cut a 30 degree taper on the very end of the threaded end of the brass nozzle. This is to completely eliminate the internal gap between the brass nozzle and the PEEK thermal barrier. This gap would exist due to the internal taper created by the cutting edge of the drill bit.<br />
# Remove the work piece and mount it by the threaded end so that the threaded end is centered in the lathe.<br />
# Cut-off any excess material.<br />
# Machine the nozzle tip to the desired profile.<br />
# Drill the nozzle orifice.<br />
# Using a number 8 drill bit, drill out the hole for the heater resistor.<br />
# Drill out the hole for the thermistor.<br />
<br />
=====Version 4=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_ver4.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
OpenSCAD drawing: [http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/3/3f/Jhn_nozzle_v4.scad Jhn_nozzle_v4.scad]<br />
<br />
Material: Brass Bar Stock, 1/2" Square, 1.000" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 11.3 grams<br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of brass bar stock 1 inch long plus enough to adequately hold the stock in the lathe.<br />
# On the brass bar stock, find the center of the axis of the nozzle. (The axis is centered at 0.250 +-0.001, from one edge, and 0.157 -0.000 +0.003 from an adjacent edge.) This can be done by various means ranging from using a milling machine to using marking fluid, a height gauge, and a surface plate.<br />
# Mount the brass bar stock in a 4-jaw chuck on a lathe. Adjust the chuck so that the nozzle axis is on center.<br />
# Turn the threaded end of the nozzle down to 0.3125 +0.000 -0.004. This section is 0.500 +-0.005 long.<br />
# For the first 0.150 +-0.010, of the threaded section, down to an OD of 0.255 (6.5mm) +0.000 -0.002.<br />
# Thread the nozzle to 5/16-24 up to the shoulder of the heater section.<br />
# Drill out the center of the nozzle with a 3.5mm drill bit. This will create a heat chamber that is the entire length of the brass nozzle.<br />
# Remove the work piece and mount it by the threaded end so that the threaded end is centered in the lathe.<br />
# Cut-off any excess material.<br />
# Machine the nozzle tip to the desired profile leaving the heater block section 0.325 thick.<br />
# Drill the nozzle orifice.<br />
# Using a size A drill bit, drill the heater resistor hole through the heater block section.<br />
# Drill the thermistor hole.<br />
<br />
Note: A size C Drill bit can be used if the heater resistor does not fit through the heater resistor hold. Care needs to be taken to ensure that the drill bit does not break through into the melt chamber. The remaining brass, between this hole and the edge opposite of the melt chamber, should be 0.020 +-0.002 thick.<br />
<br />
<br />
=====Version 4.1=====<br />
<br />
Instructions are identical to version 4. However, the thermistor hole is drilled for out for Thermistor 5.<br />
<br />
=====Version 4.2=====<br />
<br />
Coming soon.<br />
<br />
=====Version 5=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_ver5.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Material: Aluminum Bar Stock, 1/2" Square, 1.000" Long <br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 3.7 grams <br />
<br />
Note: The primary reason for using aluminum is to save weight. The alloy should be 2024, 7075, or a similar harder, high quality, alloy. Softer alloys, such as 6061, are not recommended. <br />
<br />
The blueprint and instructions are identical to Version 4 of the J-Head Nozzle.<br />
<br />
=====Version 6=====<br />
<br />
Material: Brass Bar Stock, 1/2" Square, 1.000" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: ~11.3 grams (will need verified)<br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of brass bar stock 1 inch long plus enough to adequately hold the stock in the lathe.<br />
# On the brass bar stock, find the center of the axis of the nozzle. (The axis is centered at 0.250 +-0.001, from one edge, and 0.157 -0.000 +0.003 from an adjacent edge.) This can be done by various means ranging from using a milling machine to using marking fluid, a height gauge, and a surface plate.<br />
# Mount the brass bar stock in a 4-jaw chuck on a lathe. Adjust the chuck so that the nozzle axis is on center.<br />
# Turn the threaded end of the nozzle down to 0.3125 +0.000 -0.004. This section is 0.500 +-0.005 long.<br />
# For the first 0.150 +-0.010, of the threaded section, down to an OD of 0.255 (6.5mm) +0.000 -0.002.<br />
# Thread the nozzle to 5/16-24 up to the shoulder of the heater section.<br />
# Drill out the center of the nozzle with a 3.5mm drill bit. This will create a heat chamber that is the entire length of the brass nozzle.<br />
# Remove the work piece and mount it by the threaded end so that the threaded end is centered in the lathe.<br />
# Cut-off any excess material.<br />
# Machine the nozzle tip to the desired profile leaving the heater block section 0.325 thick.<br />
# Drill the nozzle orifice.<br />
# Using a size C drill bit, drill the heater resistor hole through the heater block section. The remaining brass, between this hole and the edge opposite of the melt chamber, should be 0.020 +-0.002 thick.<br />
# Drill the thermistor hole. (Change this....)<br />
<br />
====Nozzle Holder====<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
<br />
# PEEK nozzle holders have a maximum working temperature of roughly 248 degrees Celsius. Due to many variables, it is highly recommended that this temperature is not to be approached. Above this temperature, PEEK will melt and the hot-end will fail. <br />
# PEEK normally is made in either tan or black and either color can be used. Black is normally used as it looks better, however, at times suppliers may be out of one color and the other color can be substituted.<br />
<br />
=====Version 1=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_thermal_barrier.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
Note: Picture shown displays the 36.5mm nozzle holder without optional mounting groove.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v1.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/8" Round, 36.5mm Long Or 50mm Long<br />
<br />
Note: The length can be increased, if necessary. (i.e. Increase the length to 50mm for the Sells Mendel and/or if the heat-sink is going to be installed.) All dimensions on the hot-end side, of the thermal barrier, would remain the same.<br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of 5/8" round PEEK to length.<br />
# Drill out the PEEK using a 6.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Using a letter size Q drill bit, enlarge one end to a depth of 0.450 +-0.005.<br />
# Internally thread the end to 3/8-24 using a bottom tap.<br />
# (Optional) Turn a 0.500 -0.000 +0.005 shoulder for a distance of approximately 0.050. (This will keep the support washer centered and insulated from the brass nozzle.)<br />
# (Optional) 4.76mm from the cold-end, turn a groove that is 4.64mm wide with an OD of 12mm.<br />
<br />
=====Version 2=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v2_pic.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
Note: Picture shown displays the 50mm nozzle holder with the optional mounting groove. Not shown is the opposite end, which is threaded for the hollow-lock socket set screw.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v2.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/8" Round, 36.5mm Long Or 50mm Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 9.6 grams (50mm, with mounting groove)<br />
<br />
Note: The length can be increased, if necessary. (i.e. Increase the length to 50mm for the Sells Mendel and/or if the heat-sink is going to be installed.) All dimensions on the hot-end side, of the thermal barrier, would remain the same.<br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of 5/8" round PEEK to length.<br />
# Drill out the PEEK using a 6.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Using a letter size Q drill bit, enlarge one end to a depth of 0.450 +-0.005.<br />
# Internally thread the end to 3/8-24 using a bottom tap.<br />
# (Optional) Turn a 0.500 -0.000 +0.005 shoulder for a distance of approximately 0.050. (This will keep the support washer centered and insulated from the brass nozzle.)<br />
# Using a letter size I drill bit, drill out the cold end for a distance of 0.200.<br />
# Internally thread the cold end to 5/16-24. (A special bottom tap has to be ground in order to finish threading this hole. This tap will not have any incomplete threads.)<br />
# (Optional) 4.76mm from the cold-end, turn a groove that is 4.64mm wide with an OD of 12mm.<br />
<br />
=====Version 3=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v3_pic.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v3.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/8" Round, 50mm Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 8.6 grams (50mm, with mounting groove) <br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of 5/8" round PEEK to length.<br />
# Drill out the PEEK using a 6.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Using a letter size Q drill bit, enlarge one end to a depth of 0.450 +-0.005.<br />
# Internally thread the end to 3/8-24 using a bottom tap.<br />
# (Optional) Turn a 0.500 -0.000 +0.005 shoulder for a distance of approximately 0.050. (This will keep the support washer centered and insulated from the brass nozzle.)<br />
# Using a letter size I drill bit, drill out the cold end for a distance of 0.200.<br />
# Internally thread the cold end to 5/16-24. (A special bottom tap has to be ground in order to finish threading this hole. This tap will not have any incomplete threads.)<br />
# (Optional) 4.76mm from the cold-end, turn a groove that is 4.64mm wide with an OD of 12mm.<br />
# Using a 3/8" drill bit, drill heat-sink hole 0.787 -0.000 +0.040 from the hot-end.<br />
<br />
=====Version 4=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v4_pic.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v4.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/8" Round, 36.5mm or 50mm Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 7.5 grams (50mm, w/mounting groove)<br />
<br />
# Start with a completed version 2 nozzle holder.<br />
# Optional: At the hot end of the nozzle holder, mill two flats opposite of each-other for using a 1/2" (13mm) open end wrench. Each flat will be 0.250 (6.5mm) wide and 0.250 (6.5mm) from the axis of the nozzle holder.<br />
# Mount the nozzle holder in an indexer on a milling machine.<br />
# Equip the milling machine with a 2mm or 3/32 end mill. (The dimensions of the end mill do not have to be very precise. If desired, a ball end-mill can be used in order to mill out grooves with the bottom rounded.)<br />
# Start the first groove so that it's edge is 0.600" from the hot-end of the nozzle holder.<br />
# Mill 3 grooves (36.5mm version) or 5 grooves (50mm version) as follows. The grooves will be interrupted for the supports. <br />
## Each groove is 0.150" deep.<br />
## The centers, of each groove, are 0.125" apart.<br />
## Each groove has an angular cut of 90 degrees and is milled between the following angles: 0-90, 120-210, 240-330<br />
## Each groove support is drilled out at the following angles with the center, of it's support, at 90 degrees to the end mill: 15, 135, 255<br />
## To drill out each groove support, the end-mill is positioned so that it's edge, towards the center of the nozzle holder, is 0.150" from the outer edge of the nozzle holder.<br />
<br />
=====Version 5=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v5_pic.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v5.jpg|150px]]<br />
Early SAE Blueprint<br />
<br />
NOTE: This blueprint shows three supports. Four supports are now used as per the new blueprint, below.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v5_metric.jpg|150px]]<br />
Current Metric Blueprint<br />
<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/8" Round, 40mm Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 5.5 grams <br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of 5/8" round PEEK to length<br />
# Drill out the center of the PEEK using a 6.5mm drill bit.<br />
# Using a letter size J drill bit, enlarge one end to a depth of 0.450 +-0.010.<br />
# Drill out 0.125 +-0.005, from this end, to an ID of 0.320 +-0.005.<br />
# Internally thread the end to 5/16-24 using a bottom tap. Ensure that the threads are cut no deeper than 0.450.<br />
# Taper the hot-end such that there is a 30 degree taper that starts at 5mm from the axis of the nozzle and tapers outwards to the OD. Optionally, a shoulder could be cut in place of a taper. The purpose of this taper is to reduce the amount of contact the PEEK has with the brass.<br />
# Using a letter size J drill bit, drill out the cold end for a distance of 0.300.<br />
# Internally thread the cold end to 5/16-24. <br />
# Optional: 4.76mm from the cold end, turn a groove that is 4.64mm wide with a root of 12mm.<br />
# Optional: At the hot end of the nozzle holder, mill two flats opposite of each-other for using a 1/2" (13mm) open end wrench. Each flat will be 0.250 (6.5mm) wide and 0.250 (6.5mm) from the axis of the nozzle holder.<br />
# Mount the nozzle holder in an indexer on a milling machine.<br />
# Equip the milling machine with a 2mm or 3/32 end mill. (The dimensions of the end mill do not have to be very precise.)<br />
# Start the first groove so that it's edge is 0.500" from the hot-end of the nozzle holder.<br />
# Mill 5 grooves as follows. The grooves will be interrupted for the four supports. <br />
## Each groove is 0.150" deep.<br />
## The centers, of each groove, are 0.125" apart.<br />
## Each groove has an angular cut of 60 degrees and is milled between the following angles: 0-60, 90-150, 180-240, 270-330<br />
## Each groove support is drilled out at the following angles with the center, of it's support, at 90 degrees to the end mill: 75, 165, 255, 345<br />
## To drill out each groove support, the end-mill is positioned so that it's edge, towards the center of the nozzle holder, is 0.150" from the outer edge of the nozzle holder.<br />
<br />
<br />
Improvements:<br />
<br />
Over time, slight improvements were added to this nozzle holder. The most reliable version has modifications to the groove closest to the brass nozzle. In this groove, the supports are not drilled out and the groove is milled to 0.130" deep. These changes add extra strength to this area.<br />
<br />
=====Version 6=====<br />
<br />
Coming soon.<br />
<br />
=====Experimental, Fluted=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_x_sl.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_fluted.gif|150px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/8" Round, 50mm Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 5.5 grams<br />
<br />
Note: This nozzle holder is turned down and fluted in order to reduce the weight.<br />
<br />
# Start with a completed version 2 nozzle holder.<br />
# From the hot-end, turn the first 0.600 down to 0.550.<br />
# Turn the section to be fluted down to 12mm.<br />
# Mount the nozzle holder in an indexer on a milling machine.<br />
# Using a 2mm ball end-mill, cut 12 flutes along the length of the center section. Each flute will be cut about 0.070 deep and will be cut at 30 degree intervals.<br />
<br />
====Heat Sink====<br />
<br />
=====Version 1=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_heat_sink.JPG|200px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_heat_sink.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_heat_sink_installed.jpg|50px]] [[File:Jhn_heat_sink_internal_view.jpg|50px]]<br />
<br />
Material: Aluminum, 3/8" Round, 1.160" Long<br />
<br />
Finished Weight: 3.6 grams <br />
<br />
# Cut a piece of 3/8" round aluminum to length.<br />
# Using a 1mm (0.040) cutoff tool, make 3 grooves in each end. The grooves will be 0.050 deep and 1mm apart.<br />
# Using a 6.5mm drill bit, cross-drill the heat-sink to create the PTFE liner passage. This hole is to be centered in both directions.<br />
# (Optional) Drill out each end for 0.350 with a number 25 drill bit. These holes are to lighten the heat sink.<br />
<br />
Modifying the Nozzle Holder:<br />
<br />
Note: Due to there being slightly less than 12mm clearance with a 36.5mm nozzle holder, between the cold-end of the nozzle holder and the heat sink, using a 50mm nozzle holder is advisable. (Different thermal barrier lengths are shown in the above pictures.)<br />
<br />
# If it is desirable to orient the heat sink in a certain direction relative to the brass nozzle, install the brass nozzle.<br />
# Using a 3/8" drill bit, cross-drill the nozzle holder so that the center of the hole is 0.787 -0.000 +0.040 from the hot end.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
====PTFE Liner====<br />
<br />
=====Version 1=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_ptfe_liner.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PTFE tubing, 0.250" OD, 0.125" ID (metric: 6.35 mm OD, 3.175mm ID)<br />
<br />
# Using a razor knife, cut the tubing to desired length. The length is dependent upon the length of the nozzle holder used. <br />
# Cut an approximately 30 degree (or greater) taper on what will be the hot-end of the PTFE liner.<br />
# Optional: An internal taper can be made, on the cold end, by chucking the liner in a lathe and using a center drill. This taper improves the initial feeding of the filament into the hot-end.<br />
<br />
Note: The prototype nozzle has worked without this taper. However, the taper would not have to be too precise as PTFE is quite flexible. If a lathe is not available, it may be possible to cut a workable taper with a pencil sharpener.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=====Version 2=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_ptfe_liner2.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
Material: PTFE tubing, 0.250" OD, 0.125" ID (metric: 6.35 mm OD, 3.175mm ID)<br />
<br />
# Using a razor knife, cut the tubing to slightly over 1 inch long.<br />
# In a lathe, face off what will become the cold end.<br />
# Cut an internal taper, on the cold end, by chucking the liner in a lathe and using a center drill. This taper improves the initial feeding of the filament into the hot-end.<br />
# Turn the liner around in the chuck. Cut and face-off the liner so that it's total length is 0.915".<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
====1.75mm Conversion====<br />
<br />
=====Mk II To Mk IV Series Hot-Ends=====<br />
<br />
Two machined parts are required in order to convert a Mk I to Mk IV J-Head hot-end to use 1.75mm filament. They are the PEEK hollow set screw and the 1.75mm PTFE liner. In addition, if the nozzle has a melt chamber, it must be drilled out to 2mm as opposed to 3.5mm.<br />
<br />
A quicker way, to perform the conversion, is to omit the PEEK hollow set screw and use a normal 5/16-24 hollow set screw. Drill the cold end of the 1.75mm PTFE liner out to 4mm for a depth of about 0.250". Then, install the PTFE liner and hollow set-screw. Take a piece of 4mm OD, 2mm ID PTFE tubing and install it in the cold end so that the tubing has bottomed-out in the liner. Then, cut the tubing to length with a razor knife.<br />
<br />
======PEEK hollow set screw======<br />
<br />
Material: PEEK, 5/16" round, 0.200" long<br />
<br />
# If 5/16" PEEK is not available, turn down a small piece of 3/8" PEEK on a lathe.<br />
# Externally thread the PEEK to 5/16-24.<br />
# With a center drill, start a hole on the end. The taper, of the center drill, should be large enough to act as a guide when starting the filament.<br />
# From the end of the PEEK rod, drill a hole about 0.250 deep with a 2mm drill bit.<br />
# Cut off the hollow set screw so that it is about 0.200" long.<br />
# Cut a slot, in the tapered end of the set screw, for a flat screwdriver. Note: A holder will probably have to be machined in order to prevent damage to the set screw when holding it in a vise.<br />
# Deburr the set screw and clean up the threads.<br />
<br />
======1.75mm PTFE Liner======<br />
<br />
Material: PTFE, 1/4" round, 2.5" long<br />
<br />
# Using a lathe, put a 30 degree taper on one end.<br />
# Drill this end out as far as possible with a 2mm drill bit. (The hole should be started with a center drill.)<br />
# Remove the liner, from the lathe, and test fit into the hot-end. (At this point, the hot-end is the brass nozzle with the PEEK nozzle holder installed.) Make a mark, with a razor knife, where the liner exits the hot-end.<br />
# Remove the liner from the hot-end. Cut the liner about 4.5mm closer to the hot end of the liner from the mark you just made.<br />
# Put the liner in the lathe with the cold end of it sticking out. <br />
# Face off the end.<br />
# Center drill with a center drill large enough to create an inside taper when completed. This taper will help to start the filament into the liner.<br />
# Using a 2mm drill bit, drill out this end of the liner only until the hole connects with the 2mm hole drilled from the opposite end. The inside of the liner must be as smooth as possible from the hot end of the liner to where the two holes meet. <br />
# If omitting the PEEK set-screw, drill out the cold end to a depth of 0.250" with a 4mm drill bit.<br />
<br />
=====Mk V and Later Hot Ends=====<br />
<br />
Note: To do a proper conversion, the brass nozzle should have been machined with the melt chamber drilled out to 2mm as opposed to 3.5mm.<br />
<br />
Material: PTFE, 1/4" round, 1.0" long<br />
<br />
# Using a lathe, face off both ends and reduce the total length to 0.920" +- 0.010".<br />
# Drill out the center with a 2mm drill bit.<br />
# Drill out one end, with a 4mm drill bit, to 0.100".<br />
<br />
During installation, after the hollow set-screw has been installed, use a piece of 4mm OD/ 2mm ID PTFE tubing and install it in the cold end of the hot-end. This will act as a filament guide through the hollow set-screw.<br />
<br />
===Off-The-Shelf Parts===<br />
<br />
<br />
====Heater Resistor====<br />
<br />
=====5.6 ohm (Large Standard)=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_heater_resistor_5_6.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Description: Axial, 5.6 ohm, 1%, 5W <br />
<br />
Part Number: UB5C-5.6-ND <br />
<br />
Weight: 1.6 grams<br />
<br />
Note: If this resistor is unavailable, the 6.8 ohm (Large Alternate) resistor can be used.<br />
<br />
=====6.8 ohm (Large Alternate)=====<br />
<br />
Description: Axial, 6.8 ohm, 5%, 3W<br />
<br />
Part Number: W21-6R8JI<br />
<br />
Note: The outside diameter tolerance, of this resistor, is very loose. Because of this, the resistor will usually fit loosely in the hole. In order to install this resistor, fire cement or muffler putty is almost mandatory.<br />
<br />
=====6.8 ohm (Small)=====<br />
<br />
Description: Axial, 6.8 ohm, 5%, 3W<br />
<br />
Part Number: RWMA-6.8CT-ND<br />
<br />
Weight: 1.1 grams<br />
<br />
<br />
====Support Washer====<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_support_washer.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
The support washer is optional. It can be drilled out with 3mm holes and M3 threaded rod can be used in order to provide additional support for the hot-end. If the support washer is not used, the nozzle holder can be secured in the extruder by using other means.<br />
<br />
Note: Support, for the support washer, was discontinued with the Mk V series hot-ends.<br />
<br />
====Thermistors====<br />
<br />
=====Thermistor 1=====<br />
Note: Original 100k Thermistor<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_thermistor.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Part Number: B57560G104F (Replacement Part B57550G1104 ?)<br />
<br />
Manufacturer: EPCOS<br />
<br />
Description: NTC thermistor sealed in glass body<br />
<br />
Tolerance: 1%<br />
<br />
Data Sheet: [http://www.epcos.com/inf/50/db/ntc_09/Glass_enc_Sensors__B57560__G560__G1560.pdf NTC Thermistors For Temperature Measurement]<br />
<br />
Diameter of Glass Bead: 2.3mm +-0.2mm<br />
<br />
Length of Glass Bead: 4.1mm +-0.5mm<br />
<br />
Lead Length: 67mm +-0.5mm<br />
<br />
Lead Diameter: 0.3mm<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Recommended Beta: 4066<br />
<br />
If using Sprinter firmware, select temperature table #1.<br />
<br />
<br />
<nowiki><br />
#define NUMTEMPS 61<br />
<br />
short temptable[][2] = {<br />
<br />
{ 23 , 300 },<br />
<br />
{ 25 , 295 },<br />
<br />
{ 27 , 290 },<br />
<br />
{ 28 , 285 },<br />
<br />
{ 31 , 280 },<br />
<br />
{ 33 , 275 },<br />
<br />
{ 35 , 270 },<br />
<br />
{ 38 , 265 },<br />
<br />
{ 41 , 260 },<br />
<br />
{ 44 , 255 },<br />
<br />
{ 48 , 250 },<br />
<br />
{ 52 , 245 },<br />
<br />
{ 56 , 240 },<br />
<br />
{ 61 , 235 },<br />
<br />
{ 66 , 230 },<br />
<br />
{ 71 , 225 },<br />
<br />
{ 78 , 220 },<br />
<br />
{ 84 , 215 },<br />
<br />
{ 92 , 210 },<br />
<br />
{ 100 , 205 },<br />
<br />
{ 109 , 200 },<br />
<br />
{ 120 , 195 },<br />
<br />
{ 131 , 190 },<br />
<br />
{ 143 , 185 },<br />
<br />
{ 156 , 180 },<br />
<br />
{ 171 , 175 },<br />
<br />
{ 187 , 170 },<br />
<br />
{ 205 , 165 },<br />
<br />
{ 224 , 160 },<br />
<br />
{ 245 , 155 },<br />
<br />
{ 268 , 150 },<br />
<br />
{ 293 , 145 },<br />
<br />
{ 320 , 140 },<br />
<br />
{ 348 , 135 },<br />
<br />
{ 379 , 130 },<br />
<br />
{ 411 , 125 },<br />
<br />
{ 445 , 120 },<br />
<br />
{ 480 , 115 },<br />
<br />
{ 516 , 110 },<br />
<br />
{ 553 , 105 },<br />
<br />
{ 591 , 100 },<br />
<br />
{ 628 , 95 },<br />
<br />
{ 665 , 90 },<br />
<br />
{ 702 , 85 },<br />
<br />
{ 737 , 80 },<br />
<br />
{ 770 , 75 },<br />
<br />
{ 801 , 70 },<br />
<br />
{ 830 , 65 },<br />
<br />
{ 857 , 60 },<br />
<br />
{ 881 , 55 },<br />
<br />
{ 903 , 50 },<br />
<br />
{ 922 , 45 },<br />
<br />
{ 939 , 40 },<br />
<br />
{ 954 , 35 },<br />
<br />
{ 966 , 30 },<br />
<br />
{ 977 , 25 },<br />
<br />
{ 985 , 20 },<br />
<br />
{ 993 , 15 },<br />
<br />
{ 999 , 10 },<br />
<br />
{ 1004 , 5 },<br />
<br />
{ 1008 , 0 }<br />
<br />
};<br />
</nowiki><br />
<br />
=====Thermistor 5=====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_thermistor2.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Part Number: 104GT-2<br />
<br />
Manufacturer: Semitec<br />
<br />
Description: NTC 100k ohm 3% <br />
<br />
Tolerance: 3%<br />
<br />
Data Sheet: [http://www.semitec-usa.com/downloads/gtthermistor.pdf High Heat-Resistance and High Sensitive Thermistor] <br />
<br />
Diameter of Glass Bead: 1.35mm +-0.15mm<br />
<br />
Length of Glass Bead: 3mm +-1mm<br />
<br />
Lead Length: 45mm +-1mm<br />
<br />
Lead Diameter: 0.15mm to 0.18mm<br />
<br />
If using Sprinter firmware, select temperature table #5.<br />
<br />
<br />
====Ceramic Heater Cartridge====<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_heater_cartridge.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Assembly==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Photo Series with detailed assembly instructions for current version of JHead===<br />
wiki.openhardware.co.za/index.php/Assembly_and_Wiring_of_a_J-Head_Hotend<br />
[[File:Checkjhead.jpg|150px]]<br />
[[File:Kaptonleg2.jpg|150px]]<br />
[[File:Insertresistor.jpg|150px]]<br />
[[File:Tapetherm.jpg|150px]]<br />
[[File:Donejhead.jpg|150px]]<br />
Full instructions posted on the OpenHardware.co.za Wiki: http://wiki.openhardware.co.za/index.php/Assembly_and_Wiring_of_a_J-Head_Hotend<br />
===Mk I===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_assembly.jpg|400px]] [[File:Jhn_assembled_w_washer.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
# Secure the brass nozzle in a vise by the heater section.<br />
# Optionally, install the support washer. If the support washer is to be used, drill the appropriate holes for the support rods prior to installation. (Note: The above pictures do not have holes drilled as it is possible that the hole locations could vary.)<br />
# Screw the nozzle holder down into the nozzle. If necessary, use a pair of pliers to tighten the nozzle. The nozzle holder can be protected from the pliers by first wrapping it with a rag or paper towel.<br />
# Using a dental pick, straightened out paper clip, small screw driver, etc., ensure that the nozzle holder is screwed down all the way by feeling for an internal gap between the brass and the nozzle holder. If a gap can be felt, screw the nozzle holder even tighter. If there is a gap, the PTFE liner can "flow" into the gap and eventually cause the print head to fail.<br />
# Slide the PTFE liner down into the thermal barrier. The liner must be inserted by the tapered end and it is important that the tapered end is in contact with the inside of the tip of the nozzle.<br />
# Cut the top end of the PTFE liner with a razor knife. It should project out of the nozzle holder slightly to ensure that the extruder keeps the PTFE liner from backing out.<br />
<br />
===Mk II===<br />
<br />
<br />
# Secure the brass nozzle in a vise by the heater section.<br />
# Optional: Install the support washer. If the support washer is to be used, drill the appropriate holes for the support rods prior to installation. (Note: The above pictures do not have holes drilled as it is possible that the hole locations could vary.)<br />
# Screw the nozzle holder down onto the nozzle. If no flats are milled, use a pair of pliers to tighten the nozzle. The nozzle holder can be protected from the pliers by first wrapping it with a rag or paper towel. If there are flats milled, a 13mm (1/2") open-end wrench can be used to tighten the nozzle.<br />
# Using a dental pick, straightened out paper clip, small screw driver, etc., ensure that the nozzle holder is screwed down all the way by feeling for an internal gap between the brass and the nozzle holder. If a gap can be felt, screw the nozzle holder even tighter. If there is a gap, the PTFE liner can "flow" into the gap and eventually cause the print head to fail.<br />
# Slide the PTFE liner down into the nozzle holder. The liner must be inserted by the tapered end and it is important that the tapered end is in contact with the inside of the tip of the nozzle.<br />
## If the optional melt chamber has been added, to the nozzle, the PTFE will not make contact with the tip. Instead, it will make contact with the top edge of the melt chamber.<br />
## If the PTFE liner doesn't seem to be seating properly, it may be because the PTFE liner is getting hung up on the inside edge of the brass nozzle. Follow the following directions:<br />
### Unscrew the brass nozzle from the PEEK nozzle holder.<br />
### Install the PTFE liner so that about 1/2 of it is sticking out the hot end of the PEEK nozzle holder.<br />
### Screw the PEEK nozzle holder onto the brass nozzle. The PTFE liner will be pushed back as you push and screw the assembly together.<br />
### You may need to follow this sub-set of directions after you have marked and cut the PTFE liner to the correct length. <br />
# With a razor knife, mark the PTFE liner where it is flush with the top of the nozzle holder.<br />
# Remove the PTFE liner.<br />
# From the mark, use a razor knife to cut the PTFE liner about 5/32" towards the tapered end.<br />
# Optional: Chuck the liner in a lathe and face-off the cold end of the liner. Then, using a center drill, make a slight internal taper in the end of the liner. <br />
# Slide the PTFE liner back down into the thermal barrier.<br />
# Screw in the hollow-lock socket set screw. It will need to be lightly tightened. Over-tightening may result in the PTFE liner becoming distorted.<br />
<br />
===Mk III===<br />
<br />
<br />
# Install the heat-sink. The heat-sink will probably need to be pressed in place. Care must be taken to ensure that the heat-sink liner passage is properly aligned with the nozzle holder liner passage. After the heat-sink is installed, ensure that the liner passage is clear of any debris.<br />
# Secure the aluminum nozzle in a vise by the heater section.<br />
# Optionally, install the support washer. If the support washer is to be used, drill the appropriate holes for the support rods prior to installation. (Note: The above pictures do not have holes drilled as it is possible that the hole locations could vary.)<br />
# Screw the nozzle holder down onto the nozzle. If necessary, use a pair of pliers to tighten the nozzle. The nozzle holder can be protected from the pliers by first wrapping it with a rag or paper towel.<br />
# Using a dental pick, straightened out paper clip, small screw driver, etc., ensure that the nozzle holder is screwed down all the way by feeling for an internal gap between the brass and the nozzle holder. If a gap can be felt, screw the nozzle holder even tighter. If there is a gap, the PTFE liner can "flow" into the gap and eventually cause the print head to fail.<br />
# Slide the PTFE liner down into the nozzle holder. The liner must be inserted by the tapered end and it is important that the tapered end is in contact with the inside of the tip of the nozzle.<br />
# With a razor knife, mark the PTFE liner where it is flush with the top of the nozzle holder.<br />
# Remove the PTFE liner.<br />
# From the mark, use a razor knife to cut the PTFE liner about 5/32" towards the tapered end. <br />
# Slide the PTFE liner back down into the thermal barrier.<br />
# Screw in the hollow-lock socket set screw. It will need to be lightly tightened. Over-tightening may result in the PTFE liner becoming distorted.<br />
<br />
===Mk IV===<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The assembly instructions are identical to those of the Mk II.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
===Mk V===<br />
<br />
<br />
# Secure the brass nozzle in a vise by the heater section.<br />
# Wrap a couple of turns of PTFE tape (plumbing tape) around the brass threads.<br />
# Screw the nozzle holder down onto the nozzle. If no flats are milled, use a pair of pliers to tighten the nozzle. The nozzle holder can be protected from the pliers by first wrapping it with a rag or paper towel. If there are flats milled, a 13mm (1/2") open-end wrench can be used to tighten the nozzle.<br />
# Remove the brass nozzle from the vise.<br />
# Slide the PTFE liner down into the nozzle holder. The PTFE liner needs to be inserted such that the flat end is making contact with the brass and the internally tapered end is towards the top.<br />
# Install the washer.<br />
# Screw in the hollow-lock socket set screw. Ensure that the washer stays centered while tightening this set screw. Use a piece of filament to ensure that the set screw is not too tight as the liner can become compressed and obstruct the passage. If this happens, slightly loosen the set screw.<br />
<br />
===Heater Resistor===<br />
<br />
The heater resistor can be installed one of 3 ways:<br />
<br />
# Put a little bit of muffler repair putty on the resistor and slide it into the hole. It can be cured by letting it set a couple hours before bringing the hot-end up to temperature.<br />
# Slide the heater resistor in the hole. If it fits tightly, this will work. If there is any gap, between the resistor and brass, it may result in failure of the heater resistor.<br />
# Wrap a thin strip of aluminum foil around the heater resistor and adjust it by gradually cutting it shorter until the resistor and file slide it into. Care must be taken to ensure that the proper amount of aluminum foil is used in order to take up any gap between the heater resistor and the brass.<br />
<br />
===Thermistor===<br />
<br />
Note: The thermistor table, for Thermistor 1, is [http://reprap.org/wiki/J_Head_Nozzle#Thermistor here].<br />
<br />
# Insulate the leads to the thermistor. This is usually accomplished one of two ways.<br />
## Use Kapton tape as insulation by separating the leads and sandwiching the leads in-between two strips of Kapton tape.<br />
## Use PTFE insulation and slide it over each lead.<br />
# Place the thermistor in its hole and secure it with Kapton tape.<br />
<br />
==Installation==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Using the Mounting Holes in the Wade Extruder===<br />
[[Wade's_Geared_Extruder | Wade Extruder]]<br />
<br />
# Insert the nozzle holder in the 5/8 inch (16mm) hot-end socket.<br />
# Using a sharp instrument or other object, mark the 4 hole locations on the nozzle holder.<br />
# Remove the nozzle holder.<br />
# Using a round file, file the mounting grooves in the nozzle holder in order to create 2 grooves for the mounting screws or bolts to pass through.<br />
# Install the hot end.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Using The Support Washer===<br />
<br />
Note: The support washer cannot be used for hot-ends starting with the Mk V.<br />
<br />
# Prior to installing the optional support washer, mark and drill the appropriate mounting holes on the support washer.<br />
# Install the optional support washer in between the J-Head Nozzle and the nozzle holder.<br />
# Use the support rods, screws, and/or washers to hold the hot-end in place.<br />
<br />
===Using Wire With The Support Washer=== <br />
[http://suddendevelopment.com/?p=123 Example]<br />
<br />
# Cut 4 evenly-spaced slots in the support washer.<br />
# Run the wire into the channels.<br />
# Tighten the wire vertically and diagonally. Then wrap wire around the middle tightly, tightening all of the vertical and diagonal runs.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Using A Mounting Groove===<br />
<br />
<br />
Use a nozzle holder that is machined with the optional mounting groove and a cold-end that is designed for using a mounting groove or an adapter plate [[Mounting_plate | adapter plate]] for a mounting groove. In this configuration, a mounting groove is normally required.<br />
<br />
===Wildseyed Simple Hot End Mounting System===<br />
Note: Ensure that the cold-end either has a 5/8" mounting hole or can be drilled out to 5/8".<br />
<br />
Follow the mounting instructions for the [[Wildseyed_Simple_Hot_End#Step_Eight_-_The_Mounting| Wildseyed Simple Hot End]].<br />
<br />
<br />
==Notes==<br />
<br />
<br />
===General===<br />
<br />
# In the Mk1 version, the cold-end of the PTFE liner will need to be retained in order to prevent it from backing out of the hot-end. With some extruders, such as the [[Wade's_Geared_Extruder| Wade Extruder]], the PTFE liner will easily be retained by the socket that retains the hot-end. If the liner is not properly retained, there is a high probability of the nozzle developing a leak.<br />
# While printing ABS, if the nozzle clogs due to crystalized filament the temperature is most likely too high.<br />
# Either black or tan PEEK can be used for the nozzle holders. Black PEEK is usually used as it looks nicer. However, sometimes suppliers are out of black PEEK and tan PEEK has to be substituted.<br />
# When using a hot-end, with a vented PEEK nozzle holder (i.e. Mk IV-B), it is critical that the milled vents are not obstructed in any way. These vents are used to cool the hot-end by both removing as much PEEK as possible, to prevent the liner from being insulated, and to allow air to blow through and cool the hot-end. If these vents are obstructed (i.e. taped over), it is quite possible that PLA will jam in the hot-end.<br />
<br />
===Nozzle Orifice===<br />
<br />
====Drill bit sizes and conversions====<br />
<br />
As drill bits usually drill holes slightly larger than their rated size, the following drill bits are used to drill out the orifice of J-Head nozzles:<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Rated Size'''<br />
|'''SAE Drill Bit Used'''<br />
|'''Actual Metric Size'''<br />
|-<br />
|0.25mm<br />
|0.0098<br />
|0.2489<br />
|-<br />
|0.30mm<br />
|0.0118<br />
|0.2997 <br />
|-<br />
|0.35mm<br />
|0.0135<br />
|0.343<br />
|-<br />
|0.40mm<br />
|0.0157<br />
|0.399<br />
|-<br />
|0.50mm<br />
|0.0189<br />
|0.480<br />
|-<br />
|0.60mm<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|0.70mm<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|0.75mm<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|0.80mm<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|0.90mm<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|1.00mm<br />
|N/A<br />
|1.00 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
# More sizes will be added as they become available.<br />
# Smaller drill bits are used in order to keep the orifice size within the rated size and to increase the lifespan of the nozzle by ensuring that the orifice size will "wear to size" in the event that the orifice is slightly enlarged for any reason. (i.e. by cleaning with a piece of thin wire).<br />
<br />
====Nozzle orifice length====<br />
# Mk IV hot-ends (up to the middle of May 2012), and earlier models, had a nozzle orifice length of approximately 1.25mm.<br />
# Mk IV hot-ends (after the middle of May 2012) and Mk V hot-ends have a nozzle orifice length of approximately 0.50mm. <br />
<br />
Note: Due to the nature of 5c collets, the nozzle orifice length can vary as much as 0.25mm.<br />
<br />
===Troubleshooting===<br />
# PEEK appears to have a maximum temperature of 248 degrees C. If the nozzle pushes out of the PEEK nozzle holder, this temperature was most likely exceeded.<br />
# If the nozzle is leaking, between the PEEK nozzle holder and the brass nozzle, check to see if the hollow set-screw is snug. This set-screw is located at the cold end and retains the liner. Wrapping PTFE tape, around the brass threads, will help to eliminate leaks as well.<br />
# It is possible for the PTFE liner to impede the filament path if the hollow set-screw is too tight. This is because of the taper at the hot end of the PTFE liner.<br />
# Ensure that the thermistor value is set to "1".<br />
# In the event that the extruder is not feeding correctly, loosen up the pinch wheel and ensure that the filament can be fed by hand. Also, if possible, independently verify the temperature of the hot-end.<br />
# If a cooling fan is blowing directly on a non-insulated nozzle, it is possible to have an uneven temperature on either side of the brass nozzle/heater. Under the right conditions, this can cause a condition where the temperature is correct, on one side, and too high, on the other. To resolve this problem, either insulate the brass or direct the airflow away from the brass.<br />
<br />
===Testing===<br />
<br />
====Prototype====<br />
<br />
# While this nozzle is experimental, initial tests have proven to be very positive. At the time this note was added, the prototype had printed for well over 20 hours.<br />
# Further testing indicates that it is critical that the internal gap, between the brass and the PEEK, is completely eliminated. If there is a gap, the PTFE will tend to "flow" into the gap and create a place for the filament to form a plug.<br />
# Since this nozzle, internally, is similar to the Makerbot Mk V, testing indicates that it is probably a good idea to taper the PTFE at the hot-end of the nozzle.<br />
# Testing of units with the internal gap, at the joint of the PEEK and the brass, have resulted in early failure. Replacing the PTFE liner would allow the nozzle to continue printing.<br />
# Even with the internal gap, after two weeks the the initial prototype nozzle is still working.<br />
# After almost a month, the initial prototype nozzle is still working. Due to the gap problem, it needs to have the PTFE liner replaced around once a week.<br />
<br />
====Mk I====<br />
<br />
# Initial testing of a nozzle, with the internal gap problem resolved, is very positive.<br />
# A nozzle has been successfully tested extruding PLA.<br />
# Some reservations have been expressed regarding the mounting of the nozzle. (Maybe the fender washer should be the recommended method or another method should be devised?)<br />
# Extruding PLA can result in an early failure of the PTFE liner. This failure has been prevented by both increasing the feed rate of the filament and using a cooling fan. This is to keep the filament from getting to hot too high up in the liner. A heat-sink may be required in order to provide a more adequate solution.<br />
# Due to this nozzle successfully printing both ABS and PLA, this entry has been updated to "working".<br />
<br />
====Mk I with Heat Sink====<br />
<br />
# Nozzles, with the experimental heat-sink, have been printing successfully. At this time, none have been reported to have printed PLA.<br />
# The experimental heat-sink has shown to help considerably when printing with PLA. The configuration, that worked best, had the heat-sink with a fan providing active cooling. The air, from the fan, was directed to blow over the heat-sink and not the nozzle itself.<br />
# When printing 3mm PLA, the heat-sink has proven to be very consistent and reliable.<br />
<br />
====Mk III-B====<br />
<br />
# PLA has been printed with a 0.70mm nozzle. However, there isn't enough heat provided by the heater resistor so the print speed has to be kept down. As a result, there is not advantage using a 0.70mm nozzle over a 0.50mm nozzle when printing with PLA.<br />
<br />
====Mk IV Original Prototype====<br />
# The version 3 nozzle, with a 6.8 ohm resistor, was used for testing.<br />
# PLA has been printed with an airflow directed through the milled vents.<br />
<br />
====Mk V-B====<br />
# PLA has been printed successfully.<br />
# ABS has been printed successfully.<br />
# Some leakage has been reported when printing PLA. However, as long as the hollow set-screw is very tight, it isn't a problem. As "insurance", it is recommended to seal the brass threads with PTFE tape.<br />
<br />
====Experimental Light-Weight Hot End====<br />
<br />
# An experimental hot-end was built with a fluted nozzle holder and an aluminum nozzle (v2). A 1.75mm liner was installed and it was sent out for testing.<br />
# With a fan, to provide cooling, this nozzle has successfully printed 1.75mm PLA.<br />
# The light-weight aluminum nozzle should be insulated in order to maintain the proper temperature.<br />
# This nozzle leaked. This was most likely due to the lack of a retainer for the 1.75mm liner.<br />
<br />
====Thermally Fused Hot-End====<br />
<br />
# An experimental brass nozzle was machined that would accommodate a thermal fuse.<br />
# If a heater resistor were to be wired in series with the thermal fuse, the theory is that the thermal fuse would break the circuit to prevent the PEEK from melting. This would be ideal in the event of a thermistor failure.<br />
# A static test was successful, however, thermal fuses are not yet readily available in the required temperature range.<br />
<br />
===Possible Future Modifications===<br />
<br />
====Implemented Or Working====<br />
<br />
# If the extruder will not retain the PTFE liner, it may be possible to install a 5/16-24 hollow-lock socket set screw (McMaster-Carr part number 91318A550 or 91301A150) in the cold-end of the nozzle holder. (This has been implemented in the MK II.)<br />
# Using 5/8 x 1/2 inch rectangular brass bar stock, instead of 5/8 inch square bar stock, will eliminate 1 machining operation, slightly reduce the cost of the raw materials, and may reduce the machining time for other operations as there will be less material to remove.<br />
# Either the total length should be increased or two versions should be made available. The longer version would have a 50mm thermal barrier and the liner (for the MK I) should have an initial length of 3 1/2 inches.<br />
# A groove-mount design could be created. However, a hollow-lock socket set screw (above) or a custom hollow set screw would have to be used to retain the liner. (The nozzle holder blueprint has been updated to include this option.)<br />
# Add a starting taper to the cold end of the PTFE liner. (This has been implemented in the MK II.)<br />
# A heat-sink option could be added to the nozzle holder.<br />
# It may be possible to convert this extruder to 1.75mm by replacing the PTFE tubing with a piece of 1/4" PTFE that has been drilled out to 1.75mm. (This has been proven to work.)<br />
# Use an aluminum nozzle made out of a high-strength aluminum alloy, such as 2024 or 7075. This should lighten the nozzle as well as improve the thermal conductivity of the nozzle. (Depending upon the alloy, the thermal conductivity, can be more than twice that of brass and an aluminum nozzle should be around 1/3rd the weight of a brass nozzle.)<br />
# Turn the center of the nozzle holder down to 12mm and add fluting in order to provide cooling and weight reduction.<br />
# Change to the 6.8 ohm heater resistor. The 6.8 ohm heater resistor has a smaller OD and, as a result, the heater block size could be reduced. (A prototype has been machined. Since it fits in a 13mm x 13mm piece of bar-stock, it is worth pursuing. The prototype weighs 3.1 grams.)<br />
# Cut grooves in the nozzle holder to help keep the nozzle holder cold at the cold-end. (Grooves, with supports have been milled in a test nozzle holder.)<br />
# Shorten the brass nozzle and reduce the number of threads. This will result in there being less brass to heat up and the heat-sink could be moved closer to the hot-end. (The threaded end, of the MK V, has been reduced to 0.500" from 0.560".)<br />
<br />
====Testing Phase====<br />
<br />
====Under Consideration====<br />
<br />
# Use an axial thermistor installed in a through-hole. (Due to the limited amount of brass, in the J-Head Mk V-B, an axial thermistor cannot be installed properly and efficiently without a re-design of the nozzle.)<br />
# Add a thermal fuse to prevent the PEEK from melting in the event of a thermistor (or other) failure. (See testing notes, above.)<br />
<br />
====Rejected====<br />
<br />
Note: Rejected ideas may be re-visited in the future.<br />
<br />
# Add the capability to mount a thermocouple.<br />
# Improve the thermistor mounting by adding a clamp or retaining system.<br />
# Add shallow grooves, in the PEEK over the end with the 3/8-24 threads. This will add more surface area to the PEEK and may help with the cooling of the nozzle holder.<br />
<br />
<br />
====Miscellaneous====<br />
<br />
# A [[Mini_J_Head_Nozzle | Mini J-Head nozzle ]] design has been started. This design is a heavily modified version of the J-Head Nozzle. <br />
# This design could be scaled down to create a mini version using a 4mm OD and 2mm ID PTFE sleeve. (See the [[Mini_J_Head_Nozzle | Mini J-Head nozzle ]].)<br />
<br />
===Weights===<br />
<br />
Note: All weights include the heater and heat sensor unless otherwise noted. Weights may vary slightly from what is listed.<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|'''Hot-End'''<br />
|'''Weight'''<br />
|'''Notes'''<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk II<br />
|27.1 grams<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk II<br />
|17 grams<br />
|Using nozzle v2.<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk III<br />
|21.9 grams<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk III-B<br />
|30.0 grams<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk IV<br />
|16.8 grams<br />
|With nozzle v2, optional improvements, and v4 50mm nozzle holder<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk IV-B<br />
|25.6 grams<br />
|With nozzle v1 and v4 50mm nozzle holder.<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk IV-B<br />
|26.5 grams<br />
|With nozzle v1, it's optional improvements, and v4 50mm nozzle holder.<br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk V<br />
|12.8 grams<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|J-Head Mk V-B<br />
|20.5 grams<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|J-Head, Experimental Fluted<br />
|14.7 grams<br />
|With nozzle v2 and fluted nozzle holder. <br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
|Geared Extruder Nozzle<br />
|29.7 grams<br />
|Original design with aluminum heater block and without hardware. <br />
|-<br />
|ParCan v2<br />
|27.5 grams<br />
| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Working Examples==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Pictures===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_prototype_test_a.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
First prototype in action.<br />
(Photo provided by Brian Briggs.)<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_pla_test.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
A test print using PLA. A high filament speed was used and there was little tuning of Skeinforge as the goal was to see if the nozzle would print with PLA. (Photo provided by Anthony Aragues.)<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_w_heat_sink_printing_pla_gear_s.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
A five hour print, of a gear, in PLA. A J-Head nozzle (Mk I), with an aluminum heat sink, was used. Please note the cooling fan configuration. (Photo provided by Anthony Aragues.)<br />
<br />
[[File:J-Head-Mk-IV-B.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
J-Head Mk IV-B thermsistor wiring<br />
(Photo provided by MotoBarsteward.)<br />
<br />
[[File:J-Head-Mk-IV-B-wiring.jpg|150px]]<br />
<br />
J-Head Mk IV-B resistor wiring<br />
(Photo provided by MotoBarsteward.)<br />
<br />
<br />
Note: Updated pictures - [[User:Remondo|Remondo]] 00:28, 8 June 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
===Videos===<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWRLJOm1do8 Printing A Gear]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Board-AVR_1.5&diff=96981Gen7 Board-AVR 1.52013-06-30T17:27:35Z<p>Peter6960: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Gen7 Board-AVR 1.5}}<br />
{{Gen7Board}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Generation 7 Electronics Board<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = Gen7 Board-AVR 1.5.jpeg<br />
|description = Generation 7 Electronics<br />
|license = [http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/ Creative Commons BY-NC-SA 3.0]<br />
|author = Traumflug<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Mendel_Development|Mendel Development]]<br />
[[Category:Mendel_Development]]<br />
|cadModel = [http://github.com/Traumflug/Generation_7_Electronics GitHub]<br />
|url = (none)<br />
}}This is the central part of Generation 7 Electronics. A single board with all the features required to run a printer and also including a header to plug in [[Generation 7 Electronics#Extension Boards | extension boards]] for future expansion.<br />
<br />
==How to get it==<br />
<br />
[[File: Gen7 Board 1.5 Layout.png | thumb | right | Preview of the layout.]]<br />
[[Image:Gen7Board 1.4 isolation milled PCB.jpeg | thumb | right | Isolation milled v1.4 PCB.]]<br />
[[Image:Gen7Board 1.4 etched photo-resist PCB.jpg|thumb|right|Etched v1.4 PCB.]]<br />
<br />
All these shops support Gen7 development:<br />
<br />
* [http://reprap-diy.com RepRap DIY] &nbsp; ([[User:Traumflug | Traumflug]]'s outlet )<br />
* [http://paoparts.com Paoparts]<br />
* [http://reprap-france.com eMotion Tech]<br />
<br />
They have PCBs, components and connector kits available. And thank you to these for supporting Generation 7 Electronics development.<br />
<br />
====PCBs====<br />
<br />
As Gen7 is designed to be manufactured on a RepRap, you can make PCBs yourself, of course. How to do this on a RepRap or a general milling machine is described [[Generation_7_Electronics#PCB_Manufacturing | on the Gen7 main page]]. Gerbers, PDFs and such are in [https://github.com/Traumflug/Generation_7_Electronics/tree/Gen7Board-AVR-1.5/release%20documents Gen7's Github repository].<br />
<br />
Yet another way is to purchase from one of the many houses specialized in manufacturing prototype PCBs. Gen7 is single sided, so this won't cost a fortune. If you want to sell excess copies, ask [mailto:mah@jump-ing.de Traumflug] for a commercial license.<br />
<br />
====Components====<br />
<br />
If you want to assemble the collection yourself, see the [[#Parts Lists | Parts Lists]] section.<br />
{{clear}}<br />
<br />
== Parts Lists ==<br />
<br />
To assemble or verify these lists, open the layout with gEDA/PCB and export a "BOM". This will give you a list of all required components.<br />
<br />
Special considerations:<br />
<br />
* The Pololu Stepper Drivers come with their male headers, so there's no need to purchase them separately.<br />
* Resistors with 0.25 W are on the safe side, even if the footprint name reads "0.125".<br />
* The Pololus can be operated with up to 35 V, so you may want like-rated electrolytic capacitors.<br />
* Pololus require heatsinks, so make sure you get them with the Pololus or get separate ones.<br />
<br />
==== Electronic Components ====<br />
<br />
This list is ordered to match the order of assembly.<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
! Name<br />
! Count<br />
! Designations<br />
! colspan="6" | Vendors<br />
! Remarks<br />
|-<br />
! MCP2200 I/SO<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| U2<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=109740 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1781148 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6988993 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MCP2200-I%2FSO-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Microchip-Technology/MCP2200-I-SO/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuAC40tqm9mYQbCGIRa7XkE Mouser]<br />
| This is the USB-TTL adapter<br />
|-<br />
! 0.6&nbsp;mm Wire<br />
| align="right" | 50 cm<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/71745/Kupferlackdraht-1x0-6-40m-versilbert.html Völkner]<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=C2004B-100-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/3051-1-BK005/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tGpfXzFfqoKXP%252b4I3z6GjHU%3d Mouser]<br />
| for the wire bridges on single sided PCBs<br />
|-<br />
! Resistor 10&nbsp;Ohms<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| R11, R12<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=1335 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/p/products/0131019/ RS]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Resistor 560&nbsp;Ohms<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| R14, R22<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=1446 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/30424/Kohleschichtwiderstand-0-25W-5-560r-Bf-0207.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9339590 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=7077644 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF14JT560RCT-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4LCT52R561J/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIBiU%2fdU%2f2aMBAT%2f85DdqM3U%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Resistor 1&nbsp;kOhms<br />
| align="right" | 8<br />
| R1, R2, R4, R6, R8, R10, R16, R18<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=1315 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/30427/Kohleschichtwiderstand-0-25W-5-1k-Bf-0207.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9339051 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=7077666 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF14JT1K00CT-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4LCT52R102J/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBID0wPG5x1SmoxjraoEVRm%252bI%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Resistor 4.7&nbsp;kOhms<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| RT1, RT2<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=1425 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/30435/Kohleschichtwiderstand-0-25W-5-4k7-Bf-0207.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9339540 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=7077726 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF14JT4K70CT-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4LCT52R472J/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIBiU%2fdU%2f2aMBnhLxd2hwVB4%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Resistor 10&nbsp;kOhms<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| R3, R30<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=1338 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/30439/Kohleschichtwiderstand-0-25W-5-10k-Bf-0207.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1692465 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=7077745 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF14JT10K0CT-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4LCT52R103J/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBID0wPG5x1Smo7s1vIxRENeo%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Diode 1N4004<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| D1, D2<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=1726 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/25904/Diode-1n4004-400v-1a.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9565027 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1N4004DICT-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/1N4004-E3-54/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtEwUVCuofpuFOn%252bHIvCcyB6OioqsTJAaU%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Coil 10&nbsp;uH<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| L1<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=18193 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1800109 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=M8134TB-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fastron/SMCC-N-100J-01/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsg%252by3WlYCkU8BLlVcluYKE51pm1lHTf0E%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Crystal 12&nbsp;MHz<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| U7<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| Same housing as the one below, the number on the part reads the frequency.<br />
|-<br />
! Crystal 16&nbsp;MHz or 20&nbsp;MHz<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| U6<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=32853 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/24861/Quarz-20.000MHz-Hc49-4h30-50-40-18pf-Atf.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1611779 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=887-1023-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=65dIHZNch5tdetNmTbdTNw%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Reset Switch<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| RESET<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=27892 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/55632/Tastschalter-Fsm2jh.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1555981 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/p/tastschalter/7581922/ RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=450-1650-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/PTS645SL50-LFS/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsgGjVA3toVBBpDTNTTW0j3qvz2MTOiS3o%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Ceramic Capacitor 0.1&nbsp;uF<br />
| align="right" | 13<br />
| C8, C9, C10, C11, C12, C13, C14, C16, C17, C18, C19, C20, C21<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=9265 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/35059/Kondensator-0-1-F-Kdpu-2-54mm.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9411887 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2509674900 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1160TR-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/K104Z15Y5VF5TL2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuAYrNc52CMZAyje9dnS1DFG7IHkjrvn4g%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! LED 3&nbsp;mm Green<br />
| align="right" | 5<br />
| RxLED, TxLED, LED2, LED5, +5V<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=6829 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/28131/LED-3mm-Gruen-40mcd-60-Kingbright.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1461635 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P607-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kingbright/WP34GD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs4quMj8r4lmtFxTR1CCxt9q9dPZNJDO1k%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! LED 3&nbsp;mm Yellow<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| Standby<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=6830 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/28146/LED-3mm-Gelb-250mcd-60-Kingbright.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/spc-technology/mv5374c/led-t-1-gelb/dp/1611364 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=67-1116-ND Digi-key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lite-On/LTL-4251N/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs4quMj8r4lmmTVlWg2gQ9fX98eg7qY2L0%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Ceramic Capacitor 22&nbsp;pF<br />
| align="right" | 4<br />
| C3, C4, C5, C15<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=9281 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/35206/Keramischer-Kondensator-22-Pf.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9411674 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2509259100 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1034TR-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/K220J15C0GF53L2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsh%252b1woXyUXjzGlsfIYJIFq7reT2VSJP%252bY%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Electrolytic Capacitor 10&nbsp;uF<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| CT1, CT2<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=23716 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/54434/Elko-radial-Cd110pt-85-10F-35V.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1236669 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=493-1849-ND Digi-key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UVR1V100MDD1TA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22afkwEr%252bqyzvYXm7KEO4quM%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Electrolytic Capacitor 100&nbsp;uF<br />
| align="right" | 4<br />
| C1, C2, C6, C7<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=15103 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/34639/Elko-radial-Cd110pt-85-100F-35V.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9451285 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P10294-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UVR1V101MED1TA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22XqtLh5sbTzGqwdaoWUIjWs%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Jumper Header 2&nbsp;Pin Pairs<br />
| align="right" | 4 pair<br />
| J2/J3, J5/J6, J8/J9, J11/J12<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=19488 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2518216 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=S2012E-36-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FCI/68021-410HLF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM1%252bmbmmVUI0dAJcPi2AFfzEI%3d Mouser]<br />
| cut them into appropriate pieces<br />
|-<br />
! Jumper Header 2&nbsp;Pin<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| J13, J14<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=19504 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/144921/Stiftleiste-1x36-polig-vergoldet-Rm-2-54.html Völkner]<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2518301 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=S2012E-36-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FCI/68021-410HLF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM1%252bmbmmVUI0dAJcPi2AFfzEI%3d Mouser]<br />
| cut them into appropriate pieces<br />
|-<br />
! Jumper for the two above<br />
| align="right" | 9<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=9019 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6705017 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=S9001-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=RC2ne4458II9DHSpi4%252b6Xw%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! ICSP Header<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| CONN6<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=19488 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2518216 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=S2012E-36-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FCI/78548-406HLF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM14Vjyw4ze%252bjtWY7pANs9kFQ%3d Mouser]<br />
| alternatively, assemble this out of the remainings of the Jumper 2&nbsp;Pin Headers<br />
|-<br />
! Pololu Header<br />
| align="right" | 8 or 4<br />
| U2, U3, U4, U5<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=119917 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/144917/Buchsenleiste-1x20-vergoldet-Rm-2-54.html Völkner]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=S7006-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Solutions-Division/929850-01-08-RB/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM1xk5n4HpAW44t%2fn3TzUZR%252bY%3d Mouser]<br />
| cut them to appropriate length if needed, you want 8x 8&nbsp;pins<br />
|-<br />
! Socket for the ATmega<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| U1<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=8224 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/29838/IC-Fassung-40-polig.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=4285669 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=3M5471-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FCI/DILB40P-223TLF/?qs=dNsYR%2fH0PyPZ7Cx3x%252bXI2w%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! ATmega 1284P-PU<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/index.html?ARTICLE=112738 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7193932/ RS]<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Atmel/ATMEGA1284P-PU/?qs=K8BHR703ZXhm9eu3oaOLPZcUMbiBTz4d Mouser]<br />
| See [[#Microcontroller Choice]] for details.<br />
|-<br />
! Alternative: ATmega 644-20PU (or 644P-20PU)<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=68173 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1288340 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=ATMEGA644-20PU-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Atmel/ATmega644-20PU/?qs=8jWQYweyg6OtmZV4EMC1iQ%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! MOSFET IRLB 8743<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| Q1, Q2<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7259325/ RS]<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/International-Rectifier/IRLB8743PBF/?qs=9%252bKlkBgLFf0SI%252bgMkWN%2fsMIlhC1ATvGCun7mMhjGa5Q%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==== Microcontroller Choice ====<br />
<br />
Gen7 Board can be populated with several versions of the ''ATmega***4'' microcontroller. All types of this family have same pinout and features, the only difference between them is size of memory. There are variants with additional characters in the name, like ''A'', ''P'' or ''PA''. These have no differences significant for usage on a Gen7. For Details, see Atmel application notes like [http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc8279.pdf AVR536] (differences between ATmega644 and ATmega644A), [http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc8038.pdf AVR508] (ATmega644 to ATmega644P) and [http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc8190.pdf AVR527] (ATmega644P to ATmega644PA).<br />
<br />
This table shows all possible MCUs and firmwares you can use with Gen7 board. If firmware is marked as ''maybe'' it means, that firmware should work but it was not tested, yet. <br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"<br />
! colspan="4" | MCU<br />
! colspan="4" | Firmware<br />
|-<br />
! Type<br />
! Flash<br />
! EEPROM<br />
! RAM<br />
! [[Teacup]]<br />
! [[Repetier-Firmware | Repetier]]<br />
! [[Sprinter]]<br />
! [[Marlin]]<br />
|-<br />
! ATmega1284/A/P/PA<br />
| 128K<br />
| 4K<br />
| 16K<br />
| bgcolor="green" | Yes<br />
| bgcolor="green" | Yes<br />
| bgcolor="green" | Yes<br />
| bgcolor="green" | Yes<br />
|-<br />
! ATmega644/A/P/PA<br />
| 64K<br />
| 2K<br />
| 4K<br />
| bgcolor="green" | Yes<br />
| ?<br />
| bgcolor="yellow" | Maybe<br />
| ?<br />
|-<br />
! ATmega324/A/P/PA<br />
| 32K<br />
| 1K<br />
| 2K<br />
| bgcolor="green" | Yes<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
|-<br />
! ATmega164/A/P/PA<br />
| 16K<br />
| 512<br />
| 1K<br />
| bgcolor="yellow" | Maybe<br />
| bgcolor="red" | No<br />
| bgcolor="red" | No<br />
| bgcolor="red" | No<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==== Connectors ====<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
! Name<br />
! Count<br />
! Designations<br />
! colspan="6" | Vendors<br />
! Remarks<br />
|-<br />
! Molex KK100 2&nbsp;Pin Header<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| TEMP_EXT, TEMP_BED<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14907 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795583 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=22-23-2021 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-23-2021/?qs=ILqg114nvd4YKlRlbo3yMg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Cable Connector for the above<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14857 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795284 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=22-01-2027 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-2027/?qs=mrPiglD9aYJKMlTxBWhA%2fg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Crimp Contact for the above<br />
| align="right" | 4<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14861 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6702266 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=WM2303-ND DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0134/?qs=jcz9%252beLWjlgPU98U6bZhqg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Molex KK100 3&nbsp;Pin Header<br />
| align="right" | 3<br />
| X_MIN, Y_MIN, Z_MIN<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14462 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795587 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=22-23-203 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-23-2031/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM13kGx0WjOXXXRwi0qcovNz4%3d Mouser]<br />
| Reichelt are tested to be fully compatible with Molex<br />
|-<br />
! Cable Connector for the above<br />
| align="right" | 3<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14858 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795375 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=22-01-3037 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-3037/?qs=cRUT3GdJqnw5IA1z0J2xqA%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Crimp Contact for the above<br />
| align="right" | 9<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14861 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6702266 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=WM2303-ND DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0134/?qs=jcz9%252beLWjlgPU98U6bZhqg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
| same as for TEMP_EXT, TEMP_BED above<br />
|-<br />
! Molex KK100 4&nbsp;Pin Header<br />
| align="right" | 4<br />
| X_MOT, Y_MOT, Z_MOT, E_MOT<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=696 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/p/header-leiterplattenbuchsen/6795596/ RS]<br />
| [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0022232041/WM4202-ND/26671 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=26-48-1025virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-26-48-1025 Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Cable Connector for the above<br />
| align="right" | 4<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=694 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/p/einzeldraht-gehaeuse/6795388/ RS]<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-3047/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujVoN8fcIRqZuaRgtnpZIWW4sxgbwFiYNg%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Crimp Contact for the above<br />
| align="right" | 16<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14861 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6702266 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=WM2303-ND DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0134/?qs=jcz9%252beLWjlgPU98U6bZhqg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! USB-B Connector<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| CONN1<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=22186 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Heater Header Molex 26-48-1045 (2&nbsp;Pin)<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| HEATER_EXT, HEATER_BED<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795622 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=26-48-1025 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/26-48-1025/?qs=Vtbn2VVmZzHbNAFdpV%2fLOg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Cable Connector for the above<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795149 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=09-50-8021 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/09-50-8021/?qs=LQQHZ4xw2XA5Y%252bRjNNGkVA%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Crimp Contact for the above<br />
| align="right" | 4<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6794717 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=WM2303-ND DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0134/?qs=jcz9%252beLWjlgPU98U6bZhqg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Alternative to Heater Header: 2&nbsp;Pin Screw Terminal<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| HEATER_EXT, HEATER_BED<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=36605 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A98333-ND DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Altech/34102/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtg8Gw61H%252bsrzK7mIK4jYsp Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Disk Power Header<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| CONN2, CONN3<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14854 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6704250 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=15-24-4449 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/15-24-4449/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1e%252bSDuCWdWLwq%252bkbXkggAeUHohxwXY68%3d Mouser]<br />
| also see [[DIY 4 pin molex connector]]<br />
|-<br />
! ATX24 Power Connector<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| CONN1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6705697 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=39-29-9242 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39-29-9242/?qs=DQ3LI50eFWbF7ydl4zmhvg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
| Molex Mini-Fit 44206-0007. Also known as VAL-U-LOK (20 or 24 Pins).<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==== Miscellaneous ====<br />
<br />
As of v1.5, Generation 7 Electronics has an USB-TTL adapter on board. To connect your Gen7 with a PC, you need just a generic USB device cable.<br />
<br />
Last not least, you need stepper drivers. Four each of one of the following types:<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
! Famous "Pololus" || [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Open Source Alternative || [[StepStick]]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! DRV8825 based || [http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2132 Pololu item #2132]<br />
| These require a bridge between the left side of R4/R6/R8/R10 and the respective Reset pin. This is doable with a solder blob.<br />
|-<br />
! DRV8825 based || [http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2133 Pololu item #2133]<br />
| Should work without modification, but no feedback, yet.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Assembly Instructions==<br />
<br />
Everything lying around, in bags or single parts? Fine. Let's heat up the soldering iron.<br />
<br />
====General Notes on Assembly====<br />
<br />
* To find out which components to put where, have the layout on your PC screen available.<br />
<br />
* PCBs fabricated with Voronoi paths need more heat, so raise your soldering iron's temperature by about 20 deg Celsius.<br />
<br />
* To ease soldering jumper headers and similar components, put a small drop of cyanacrylate glue onto the component side before inserting them. As the PCB is single-sided, this won't hurt the solder point.<br />
<br />
* When soldering parts with many pins, like the ATmega socket, it's good practice to start with the four corner pins, recheck the fit, then soldering every other pin first, before completing the remaining ones. This keeps heat and strain to a minimum.<br />
<br />
* Start with the flattest parts, usually wire bridges or resistors. This way, components won't fall out when you lay the PCB on it's front for soldering. Then continue with parts of raising height, connectors are usually among the last ones.<br />
<br />
* The parts lists are sorted with that in mind, simply start at the top and assemble towards the bottom.<br />
<br />
====Assembly in Detail====<br />
<br />
'''Caution''': Don't solder MOSFETs or insert the ATmega until after the [[#Power_Supply_Checks | Power Supply Checks]].<br />
<br />
Click on the pictures to view them larger.<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.5 Layout.png | This is the layout, seen from top. If you're unsure, always refer to this picture of the layout. The designators match those in the parts list.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.5 Layout Back.png | This is the layout, seen from the bottom. Note the MCP2200 on this side.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.5 Assembly 01.jpeg | This picture shows how to place the MCP2200. The dot indicating pin 1 is in the lower right corner. For soldering tips, see [[Gen7 ExtensionBoard USB B 1.0#Assembly in Pictures | instructions for the EB-USB-B]].<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 01.jpeg | For best solder quality, tin all remaining solder points before inserting components. The picture shows the Gen7 v1.4 board.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* Start with the 9 wire bridges. The layout shows them as matte green tracks. The tracks inside the reset switch are not wire bridges, this connection is established by the switch its self.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" width="90%" style="text-align:center; margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|+ Resistor Color Codes<br />
| 10&nbsp;&Omega; || 560&nbsp;&Omega; || 1&nbsp;k&Omega; || 4.7&nbsp;k&Omega; || 10&nbsp;k&Omega;<br />
|-<br />
| brown-black-black || green-blue-brown || brown-black-red || yellow-violet-red || brown-black-orange<br />
|}<br />
<br />
* D1 and D2 are diodes, so you have to take care of polarity. Diodes have a white ring on the housing, which must end up closer to the boards boundary.<br />
<br />
* L1 looks like a thick resistor, but is actually a coil.<br />
<br />
* As LEDs are diodes, too, direction matters. The longer of their legs is plus (+), which should go into the hole marked + in the layout.<br />
<br />
* Electrolytic capacitors have a polarity as well. The white stripe on the housing indicates minus (-), the longer leg again indicates plus (+).<br />
<br />
* It's a good idea to insert a Pololu while soldering the Pololu headers to assure a nice fit.<br />
<br />
* Don't forget to take care of the polarity of the disk power connectors. The chamfered edges show which way to insert them.<br />
<br />
* The snap ramp of the ATX24 points towards the center of the board.<br />
<br />
After some time, you should have something like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7 v1.5 Preassembled.jpeg | 500px | center]]<br />
<br />
As you can see, this builder has choosen to use Molex KK156 headers for both, extruder and heated bed heaters. Others may choose a screw terminal for the heated bed, or for both.<br />
<br />
Neither the MOSFETs nor the ATmega are inserted yet. We'll come back to that later.<br />
<br />
Also, there are two rows of holes above and below the ATmega which are left empty. These are for the extension board header. Soldering this header makes only sense if you want to connect an extension board, so do this as part of the extension board assembly.<br />
<br />
=Setup=<br />
<br />
These steps show how to get from a soldered mainboard to a working one.<br />
<br />
==Possible Power Sources==<br />
<br />
Generation 7 Electronics has two options to satisfy you machine's power needs.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7_v1.4_Power_Options.jpeg | 500px | center]]<br />
<br />
====Option 1====<br />
<br />
This is the recommended one. Take your PC power supply, plug in the ATX24, as well as both Disk Power connectors and be done. This will supply the electronics with everything needed, no modification of the supply required.<br />
<br />
One point to take care of is, PC PSUs have two or three strings with several Disk Power connectors on each string. Each of the strings can supply about 10 Ampéres only, so make sure you plug in only one connector of each string into Gen7's headers if you use a heated bed or some other high-current device.<br />
<br />
In this scenario, the ATmega can run and talk to the host with the PSU turned "off" (in Standby mode). So, don't be surprised if you start working with your Mendel and the PSU is still quiet. Each G-code command requiring more juice will turn the PSU on, and some time after the last command off again.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': the ATX24 header is backwards compatible to the older ATX20 connector, so if you have a PSU with an ATX20 connector, plug in that. There's only one position where it fits (without pushing very hard) and there is no drawback in using an older supply:<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7_ATX20_in_ATX24.jpeg | 300px | center]]<br />
<br />
====Option 2====<br />
<br />
This is for people with a non-PC power supply. Make connectors feeding 5&nbsp;V to the upper Disk Power header, as well as 12&nbsp;V into both of them. The ATX24 is left empty.<br />
<br />
No standby feature here, ATmega, Pololus, motors and heaters are supplied all the time.<br />
<br />
==Power Source Selection==<br />
<br />
After choosing an option for the power supply, you have to tell the board where to get 5&nbsp;V from.<br />
<br />
[[File: Gen7_v1.4_Power_Selection.jpeg | 500px | center]]<br />
<br />
In the lower right corner of the board you see two jumper headers.<br />
<br />
* ATX20/ATX24: recommended for option 1.<br />
* Disk Power: recommended for option 2.<br />
<br />
You may jumper '''one, and only one''' of them.<br />
<br />
==Power Supply Checks==<br />
<br />
With the 5&nbsp;V selection jumper and all power connectors inserted, you can take a few measurements to make sure your brand new ATmega won't blow up when inserted.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7_v1.4_Power_Checks.jpeg | 500px | center]]<br />
<br />
* Red: power supply inserted according to any option. In case of an Option 1, PSU not yet activated.<br />
* Blue: as above, with PSU activated or power supply according to Option 2.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': in the picture, no 5&nbsp;V selection jumper is inserted, but you need the right one here.<br />
<br />
Checks:<br />
<br />
# No smoke? Great.<br />
# The yellow LED in the lower right corner is lighted? Even better.<br />
# If you've chosen Option 1, short the wire bridge with the top right pin of the ATmega socket like the dashed green line in the picture. This should activate the power supply.<br />
# At the same time, the green LED in the lower right corner should go on as well.<br />
# If you have a voltage meter, measure the voltages shown in the picture. Dots mean wire bridges, arrows mean pins.<br />
# Also, check each of the pins of the ATmega socket, none of them should have more than 0.5&nbsp;volts, except those marked to have 5&nbsp;V. On the ATmega socket, this is pin 9, 10, 21, 30, 39 and 40 (counter-clockwise, starting at the lower left).<br />
# Check the pins in the lower row of the Pololus. Neither of the unmarked ones should exceed 0.5&nbsp;volts as well.<br />
<br />
With everything within the limits, you can pretty safely assume to not blow up the expensive parts when inserting them.<br />
<br />
==Insert Semiconductors==<br />
<br />
Now, with some safety tests done, it's a good time to insert semiconductors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7_v1.4.1_Semiconductors.jpeg | 400px | center]]<br />
Note: the picture shows the Gen7_v1.4.1 board, the Gen7 AVR 1.5 board has the same MOSFET's IRLB 8743<br />
<br />
* Disconnect the power supply entirely.<br />
* Both MOSFETs are marked with IRLB 8743<br />
* Solder both MOSFETs with the flat side towards the center of the board into their place. Use sufficient solder, as high currents are flowing here.<br />
* Insert the ATmega into it's socket. Like every integrated circuit with such a housing, there's a groove on one of the ends of the black box. This groove shows towards the MOSFET side of the board, the non-grooved end is close to the ATX24 header. Done right, you can read the text on the housing from the ATX24 header side correctly.<br />
<br />
== Wiring to your Reprap Printer ==<br />
<br />
Philip from OpenHardware.co.za drew a nice diagram indicating one wiring solution: More information here: http://wiki.openhardware.co.za/index.php/Wire_a_RepRap_3D_Printer_to_a_Gen7_Electronics_Board<br />
<br />
== Programming the MCP2200 ==<br />
<br />
While the MCP2200 will work without any configuration, the Rx/Tx pins that control the LEDs are disabled by default. There's a [http://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/devices.aspx?dDocName=en546923#documentation MCP2200 Configuration Utility] which allows advanced configuration, including enabling the blinking of the Rx/Tx indicators (see also [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,63487,175161#msg-175161 these two forum postings]). This tool also allows changing the general purpose I/O (GPIO) pins of the chip. An available library can be used to write custom windows applications using this. Not very helpful in the Linux world, the tool doesn't run using [http://winehq.org/ Wine].<br />
<br />
Additionally, while configuring the MCP2200 ensure the "Enable CTS/RTS Pins" option remains '''unchecked'''. This option enables control of these pins internally by the chip and disables control by the OS. Enabling it will cause the arduino software to be unable to reset the chip properly while programming and may cause unexpected resets if the receive buffer manages to fill up.<br />
<br />
An attempt to hack the chip using open source tools is [http://jap.hu/electronic/usbio.html usbio]. If you want to dive in even further, the MCP2200 is a custom-programmed PIC18F14k50 and can be reprogrammed. :-)<br />
<br />
=== Troubleshooting the MCP2200 ===<br />
<br />
Starting at this [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,210044,210228#msg-210228 post in the forum] it's described how the MCP2200 doesn't work on some Windows 64-bit versions. So far no known solution.<br />
<br />
[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?181,212310,213326#msg-213326 Additional info from Rezer], he runs this chip successfully with Win7 64-bit:<br />
: ''Oh, and I checked the mcp2200 driver version on my windows 7 64 bit machine...it was 1.2 (5.1.2600.3), and I uninstalled it and plugged the board back in. It automagically pulled 1.3 (5.1.2600.7) from windows update and still works fine *shrug*. I have UAC turned off on my machine, unsure if that would make a difference.''<br />
<br />
== Bootloader ==<br />
<br />
If you bought your ATmega with one of the Gen7 kits, the bootloader should have already been uploaded and you can skip this section. Any other bootloader, like the one used for the [[Generation 3 Electronics | Sanguino]], [[RAMPS]], [[Sanguinololu]] or whatever is also fine.<br />
<br />
If you bought an factory fresh ATmega, e.g. from a general electronics supplier, the ATmega will be without bootloader. How to change that is described in the [[Gen7 Arduino IDE Support#Bootloader Upload | Bootloader Upload]] section of the [[Gen7 Arduino IDE Support]] package. You'll find the required binaries there, too.<br />
<br />
If you're in doubt, just continue with the setup. A missing bootloader will result in a timeout error when attempting to upload a firmware.<br />
<br />
== Firmware ==<br />
<br />
In principle, you can run any of the ATmega compatible RepRap Firmwares on this board. Adjust the I/O pin layout, adjust compile time options for no secondary board/no RS485 and proceed. Just like [[Generation2Electronics | Gen2]], [[RAMPS]], [[Sanguinololu]] or similar electronics.<br />
<br />
There's also no Gen7-specific choice for the slicer or the G-code sending application. Use what you prefer or what owners of other electronics use.<br />
<br />
=== Pinout ===<br />
<br />
The pinout of ATMega644/ATMega1284 hasn't changed since [[Gen7 Board 1.4.1#Pinout|version 1.4]], so if you have your firmware configured for this version, no changes are needed. For example, if you are using [[Teacup]] firmware, you can use ''config.gen7-v1.4.h'' configuration file.<br />
<br />
The following should help to configure other firmwares:<br />
<br />
+--------\/--------+ <br />
INT8 (D 0) PB0 1|> Xmin Temp_Bed {|40 PA0 (AI 0 / D31)<br />
INT1 (D 1) PB1 2|> Ymin Temp_Ext {|39 PA1 (AI 1 / D30)<br />
INT2 (D 2) PB2 3|> Zmin Xstep >|38 PA2 (AI 2 / D29)<br />
PWM (D 3) PB3 4|< Heat_Bed Xdir >|37 PA3 (AI 3 / D28)<br />
PWM (D 4) PB4 5|< Heat_Ext Ystep >|36 PA4 (AI 4 / D27)<br />
MOSI (D 5) PB5 6| Ydir >|35 PA5 (AI 5 / D26)<br />
MIS0 (D 6) PB6 7| MotEn >|34 PA6 (AI 6 / D25)<br />
SCK (D 7) PB7 8| |33 PA7 (AI 7 / D24)<br />
RST 9| |32 AREF <br />
VCC 10| |31 GND <br />
GND 11| |30 AVCC <br />
XTAL2 12| Zstep >|29 PC7 (D 23) <br />
XTAL1 13| Zdir >|28 PC6 (D 22) <br />
RX0 (D 8) PD0 14| |27 PC5 (D 21) TDI <br />
TX0 (D 9) PD1 15| |26 PC4 (D 20) TDO <br />
RX1 (D 10) PD2 16| Estep >|25 PC3 (D 19) TMS <br />
TX1 (D 11) PD3 17| Edir >|24 PC2 (D 18) TCK <br />
PWM (D 12) PD4 18| |23 PC1 (D 17) SDA <br />
PWM (D 13) PD5 19| |22 PC0 (D 16) SCL <br />
PWM (D 14) PD6 20| PwrEn >|21 PD7 (D 15) PWM <br />
+------------------+ <br />
<br />
== Modifications ==<br />
<br />
Here are modification which fix things which either customize something or are a peek into the next version of Gen7.<br />
<br />
==== Compatibility with early DRV8825 based Pololus ====<br />
<br />
These [http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2132 early DRV8825-based "Pololus"] lack a pullup on the Sleep pin. This can be fixed with an additional track like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:Track for early DRV8825 Pololus.png | center]]<br />
<br />
This light blue line is an additional track which can be done with a simple solder blob on the real board. It pulls Reset & Sleep always up, a feature missing on these stepper drivers. This modification is required for each of the four stepper drivers and has no drawbacks when using A4983 or A4988 based Pololus. It'll go into the next Gen7 release.<br />
<br />
That said, Pololu has replaced these early ones already with a version which fixes exactly that: http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2133<br />
<br />
----<br />
----<br />
<br />
Page creation in progress. For now, see [[Gen7_ExtensionBoard_USB_B_1.0]] for the new USB adapter and [[Gen7 Board 1.4.1]] for the remaining.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gen7_Board_1.4.1&diff=96980Gen7 Board 1.4.12013-06-30T17:24:45Z<p>Peter6960: /* Connecting Devices */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Deprecated|Gen7 Board-AVR 1.5}}<br />
<br />
{{Languages}}<br />
{{Gen7Board}}<br />
This supersedes [[Gen7 Board 1.3.1]] and [[Gen7 Board 1.4]]. On how to upgrade from v1.3.1 to v1.4, see [[Gen7 Board 1.3.1#Upgrading from v1.3.1 to v1.4 | Upgrading from v1.3.1 to v1.4]]. On how to upgrade from v1.4 to v1.4.1, see [[Gen7 Board 1.4 | Gen7 Board v1.4]].<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Generation 7 Electronics Board<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = Gen7 Board 1.4.1.jpeg<br />
|description = Generation 7 Electronics<br />
|license = [http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/ Creative Commons BY-NC-SA 3.0]<br />
|author = Traumflug<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Mendel_Development|Mendel Development]]<br />
[[Category:Mendel_Development]]<br />
|cadModel = [http://github.com/Traumflug/Generation_7_Electronics GitHub]<br />
|url = (none)<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=How to get it=<br />
<br />
[[File: Gen7 Board 1.4.1 Layout.png | thumb | right | Preview of the layout.]]<br />
[[Image:Gen7Board 1.4 isolation milled PCB.jpeg | thumb | right | Isolation milled PCB.]]<br />
[[Image:Gen7Board 1.4 etched photo-resist PCB.jpg|thumb|right|Etched PCB.]]<br />
<br />
All these shops support Gen7 development:<br />
<br />
* [http://reprap-diy.com RepRap DIY] &nbsp; ([[User:Traumflug | Traumflug]]'s outlet )<br />
* [http://paoparts.com Paoparts]<br />
* [http://reprap-france.com eMotion Tech]<br />
<br />
They have PCBs, components and connector kits available. And thank you to these for supporting Generation 7 Electronics development.<br />
<br />
====PCBs====<br />
<br />
As Gen7 is designed to be manufactured on a RepRap, you can make PCBs yourself, of course. How to do this on a RepRap or a general milling machine is described [[Generation_7_Electronics#PCB_Manufacturing | on the Gen7 main page]]. You'll find links to release documents, Gerbers, PDFs and such on the [[Generation 7 Electronics#Board | main Gen7 page]], too.<br />
<br />
Yet another way is to purchase from one of the many houses specialized in manufacturing prototype PCBs. Gen7 is single sided, so this won't cost a fortune. If you want to sell excess copies, ask [mailto:mah@jump-ing.de Traumflug] for a commercial license.<br />
<br />
====Components====<br />
<br />
If you want to assemble the collection yourself, see the [[#Parts Lists | Parts Lists]] section.<br />
<br />
=Parts Lists=<br />
<br />
To assemble or verify these lists, open the layout with gEDA/PCB and export a "BOM". This will give you a list of all required components.<br />
<br />
Special considerations:<br />
<br />
* The Pololu Stepper Drivers want two single rows of 8 pin female connectors soldered into the board, so get these.<br />
* The Pololu Stepper Drivers come with their male headers, so there's no need to purchase them separately.<br />
* Don't forget enough (8-9) jumpers for the jumper headers.<br />
* Resistors with 0.25 W are on the safe side, even if the footprint name reads "0.125".<br />
* The Pololus can be operated with up to 35 V, so you may want like-rated electrolytic capacitors.<br />
* You may want to add the cable side of the connectors, their crimp pins and some wire.<br />
<br />
==Electronic Components==<br />
<br />
This list is ordered to match the order of assembly.<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
! Name<br />
! Count<br />
! Designations<br />
! colspan="6" | Vendors<br />
! Remarks<br />
|-<br />
! 0.6&nbsp;mm Wire<br />
| align="right" | 50 cm<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/71745/Kupferlackdraht-1x0-6-40m-versilbert.html Völkner]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=C2004B-100-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/3051-1-BK005/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tGpfXzFfqoKXP%252b4I3z6GjHU%3d Mouser]<br />
| for the wire bridges on single sided PCBs<br />
|-<br />
! Resistor 10&nbsp;Ohms<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| R11, R12<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=1335 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/p/products/0131019/ RS]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Resistor 560&nbsp;Ohms<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| R14, R22<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=1446 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/30424/Kohleschichtwiderstand-0-25W-5-560r-Bf-0207.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9339590 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=7077644 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF14JT560RCT-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4LCT52R561J/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIBiU%2fdU%2f2aMBAT%2f85DdqM3U%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Resistor 1&nbsp;kOhms<br />
| align="right" | 6<br />
| R2, R6, R8, R10, R16, R18<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=1315 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/30427/Kohleschichtwiderstand-0-25W-5-1k-Bf-0207.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9339051 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=7077666 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF14JT1K00CT-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4LCT52R102J/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBID0wPG5x1SmoxjraoEVRm%252bI%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Resistor 4.7&nbsp;kOhms<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| RT1, RT2 <br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=1425 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/30435/Kohleschichtwiderstand-0-25W-5-4k7-Bf-0207.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9339540 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=7077726 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF14JT4K70CT-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4LCT52R472J/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIBiU%2fdU%2f2aMBnhLxd2hwVB4%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Resistor 10&nbsp;kOhms<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| R30<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=1338 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/30439/Kohleschichtwiderstand-0-25W-5-10k-Bf-0207.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1692465 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=7077745 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF14JT10K0CT-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4LCT52R103J/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBID0wPG5x1Smo7s1vIxRENeo%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Diode 1N4004<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| D1, D2<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=1726 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/25904/Diode-1n4004-400v-1a.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9565027 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1N4004DICT-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/1N4004-E3-54/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtEwUVCuofpuFOn%252bHIvCcyB6OioqsTJAaU%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Coil 100&nbsp;uH<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| L1 <br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=18192 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/33534/Hf-Induktivitaet-100-h-Smcc-101j-02.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1800111 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=M8146TB-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fastron/SMCC-N-101K-00/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMueR%252blcXtRMwTF%2fyJ2D16pKTneVmYTFiCg%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Crystal 16&nbsp;MHz or 20&nbsp;MHz<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| U6 <br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=32853 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/24861/Quarz-20.000MHz-Hc49-4h30-50-40-18pf-Atf.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1611779 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=887-1023-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=65dIHZNch5tdetNmTbdTNw%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Reset Switch<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| RESET <br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=27892 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/55632/Tastschalter-Fsm2jh.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1555981 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/p/tastschalter/7581922/ RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=450-1650-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/PTS645SL50-LFS/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsgGjVA3toVBBpDTNTTW0j3qvz2MTOiS3o%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Ceramic Capacitor 0.1&nbsp;uF<br />
| align="right" | 12<br />
| C5, C8, C9, C10, C11, C12, C13, C14, C16, C17, C18, C19 <br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=9265 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/35059/Kondensator-0-1-F-Kdpu-2-54mm.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9411887 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2509674900 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1160TR-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/K104Z15Y5VF5TL2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuAYrNc52CMZAyje9dnS1DFG7IHkjrvn4g%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! LED 3&nbsp;mm Green<br />
| align="right" | 3<br />
| LED2, LED5, +5V<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=6829 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/28131/LED-3mm-Gruen-40mcd-60-Kingbright.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1461635 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P607-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kingbright/WP34GD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs4quMj8r4lmtFxTR1CCxt9q9dPZNJDO1k%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! LED 3&nbsp;mm Yellow<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| Standby<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=6830 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/28146/LED-3mm-Gelb-250mcd-60-Kingbright.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/spc-technology/mv5374c/led-t-1-gelb/dp/1611364 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=67-1116-ND Digi-key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lite-On/LTL-4251N/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs4quMj8r4lmmTVlWg2gQ9fX98eg7qY2L0%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Ceramic Capacitor 22&nbsp;pF<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| C3, C4 <br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=9281 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/35206/Keramischer-Kondensator-22-Pf.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9411674 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2509259100 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1034TR-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/K220J15C0GF53L2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsh%252b1woXyUXjzGlsfIYJIFq7reT2VSJP%252bY%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Electrolytic Capacitor 10&nbsp;uF<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| CT1, CT2<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=23716 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/54434/Elko-radial-Cd110pt-85-10F-35V.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1236669 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=493-1849-ND Digi-key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UVR1V100MDD1TA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22afkwEr%252bqyzvYXm7KEO4quM%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Electrolytic Capacitor 100&nbsp;uF<br />
| align="right" | 4<br />
| C1, C2, C6, C7<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=15103 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/34639/Elko-radial-Cd110pt-85-100F-35V.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=9451285 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P10294-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UVR1V101MED1TA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22XqtLh5sbTzGqwdaoWUIjWs%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Jumper Header 2&nbsp;Pin Pairs<br />
| align="right" | 4 pair<br />
| J2/J3, J5/J6, J8/J9, J11/J12<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=19488 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2518216 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=S2012E-36-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FCI/68021-410HLF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM1%252bmbmmVUI0dAJcPi2AFfzEI%3d Mouser]<br />
| cut them into appropriate pieces<br />
|-<br />
! Jumper Header 2&nbsp;Pin<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| J13, J14<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=19504 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/144921/Stiftleiste-1x36-polig-vergoldet-Rm-2-54.html Völkner]<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2518301 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=S2012E-36-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FCI/68021-410HLF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM1%252bmbmmVUI0dAJcPi2AFfzEI%3d Mouser]<br />
| cut them into appropriate pieces<br />
|-<br />
! Jumper for the two above<br />
| align="right" | 9<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=9019 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6705017 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=S9001-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=RC2ne4458II9DHSpi4%252b6Xw%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! ICSP Header<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| CONN6<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=19488 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2518216 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=S2012E-36-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FCI/78548-406HLF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM14Vjyw4ze%252bjtWY7pANs9kFQ%3d Mouser]<br />
| alternatively, assemble this out of the remainings of the Jumper 2&nbsp;Pin Headers<br />
|-<br />
! Pololu Header<br />
| align="right" | 8 or 4<br />
| U2, U3, U4, U5 <br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=119917 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/144917/Buchsenleiste-1x20-vergoldet-Rm-2-54.html Völkner]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=S7006-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Solutions-Division/929850-01-08-RB/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM1xk5n4HpAW44t%2fn3TzUZR%252bY%3d Mouser]<br />
| cut them to appropriate length if needed, you want 8x 8&nbsp;pins<br />
|-<br />
! Socket for the ATmega<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| U1<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=8224 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/29838/IC-Fassung-40-polig.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=4285669 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=3M5471-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FCI/DILB40P-223TLF/?qs=dNsYR%2fH0PyPZ7Cx3x%252bXI2w%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! ATmega 1284P-PU<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/index.html?ARTICLE=112738 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7193932/ RS]<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Atmel/ATMEGA1284P-PU/?qs=K8BHR703ZXhm9eu3oaOLPZcUMbiBTz4d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Alternative: ATmega 644-20PU (or 644P-20PU)<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=68173 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1288340 Farnell]<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=ATMEGA644-20PU-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Atmel/ATmega644-20PU/?qs=8jWQYweyg6OtmZV4EMC1iQ%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! MOSFET IRFZ 44N<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| Q1<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=8820 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/26195/Transistor-Hexfet-Irfz44n-To-220-Ir.html Völkner]<br />
| [http://de.farnell.com/international-rectifier/irfz44npbf/mosfet-n-55v-41a-to-220/dp/8650225 Farnell]<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5409777 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=IRFZ44NPBF-ND Digi-Key]<br />
| [http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/HUF75329P3/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvECErq9cesgMp%2fMKzoj09DV86yXDHPzSQ%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! MOSFET IRLB 8743<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| Q2<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7259325/ RS]<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/International-Rectifier/IRLB8743PBF/?qs=9%252bKlkBgLFf0SI%252bgMkWN%2fsMIlhC1ATvGCun7mMhjGa5Q%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Connectors==<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
! Name<br />
! Count<br />
! Designations<br />
! colspan="6" | Vendors<br />
! Remarks<br />
|-<br />
! Molex KK100 2&nbsp;Pin Header<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| TEMP_EXT, TEMP_BED<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14907 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795583 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=22-23-2021 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-23-2021/?qs=ILqg114nvd4YKlRlbo3yMg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Cable Connector for the above<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14857 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795284 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=22-01-2027 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-2027/?qs=mrPiglD9aYJKMlTxBWhA%2fg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Crimp Contact for the above<br />
| align="right" | 4<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14861 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6702266 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=WM2303-ND DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0134/?qs=jcz9%252beLWjlgPU98U6bZhqg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Molex KK100 3&nbsp;Pin Header<br />
| align="right" | 3<br />
| X_MIN, Y_MIN, Z_MIN<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14462 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795587 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=22-23-203 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-23-2031/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM13kGx0WjOXXXRwi0qcovNz4%3d Mouser]<br />
| Reichelt are tested to be fully compatible with Molex<br />
|-<br />
! Cable Connector for the above<br />
| align="right" | 3<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14858 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795375 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=22-01-3037 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-3037/?qs=cRUT3GdJqnw5IA1z0J2xqA%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Crimp Contact for the above<br />
| align="right" | 9<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14861 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6702266 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=WM2303-ND DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0134/?qs=jcz9%252beLWjlgPU98U6bZhqg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
| same as for TEMP_EXT, TEMP_BED above<br />
|-<br />
! Molex KK100 4&nbsp;Pin Header<br />
| align="right" | 4<br />
| X_MOT, Y_MOT, Z_MOT, E_MOT<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=696 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/p/header-leiterplattenbuchsen/6795596/ RS]<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=26-48-1025virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-26-48-1025 Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Cable Connector for the above<br />
| align="right" | 4<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=694 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/p/einzeldraht-gehaeuse/6795388/ RS]<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-3047/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujVoN8fcIRqZuaRgtnpZIWW4sxgbwFiYNg%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Crimp Contact for the above<br />
| align="right" | 16<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14861 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6702266 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=WM2303-ND DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0134/?qs=jcz9%252beLWjlgPU98U6bZhqg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Molex KK100 6&nbsp;Pin Header<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| SERIAL<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795593 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=22-23-2061 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-23-2061/?qs=ILqg114nvd6YkpLBwrcQsQ%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
| alternatively, use the same as for Jumper 2&nbsp;Pin<br />
|-<br />
! Optional: Cable Header for the above<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795391 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=22-01-3067 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-3067/?qs=cRUT3GdJqnx%252bQBgba2oxqQ%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
| only needed if you intend to solder your own USB-to-TTL cable<br />
|-<br />
! Optional: Crimp Contact for the above<br />
| align="right" | 6<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6702266 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=WM2303-ND DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0134/?qs=jcz9%252beLWjlgPU98U6bZhqg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
| only needed if you intend to solder your own USB-to-TTL cable<br />
|-<br />
! Heater Header Molex 26-48-1045 (2&nbsp;Pin)<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| HEATER_EXT, HEATER_BED<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795622 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=26-48-1025 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/26-48-1025/?qs=Vtbn2VVmZzHbNAFdpV%2fLOg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Cable Connector for the above<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6795149 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=09-50-8021 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/09-50-8021/?qs=LQQHZ4xw2XA5Y%252bRjNNGkVA%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Crimp Contact for the above<br />
| align="right" | 4<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6794717 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=WM2303-ND DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0134/?qs=jcz9%252beLWjlgPU98U6bZhqg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Alternative to Heater Header: 2&nbsp;Pin Screw Terminal<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| HEATER_EXT, HEATER_BED<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=36605 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A98333-ND DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Altech/34102/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtg8Gw61H%252bsrzK7mIK4jYsp Mouser]<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Disk Power Header<br />
| align="right" | 2<br />
| CONN2, CONN3<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=14854 Reichelt]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6704250 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=15-24-4449 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/15-24-4449/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1e%252bSDuCWdWLwq%252bkbXkggAeUHohxwXY68%3d Mouser]<br />
| also see [[DIY 4 pin molex connector]]<br />
|-<br />
! ATX24 Power Connector<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
| CONN1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6705697 RS]<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=39-29-9242 DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39-29-9242/?qs=DQ3LI50eFWbF7ydl4zmhvg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
| Molex Mini-Fit 44206-0007. Also known as VAL-U-LOK (20 or 24 Pins).<br />
|-<br />
! Heatsink for the Pololus<br />
| align="right" | 4<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=113625 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/47981/Akasa-Grafikkarten-Ram-Speicherkuehler.html Völkner]<br />
|<br />
| [http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5040744 RS]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
! Heatsink Glue<br />
| align="right" | 1<br />
|<br />
| [http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=112269 Reichelt]<br />
| [http://www.voelkner.de/products/122335/Waermeleit-Klebefolie-Kl90-20x20.html Völkner]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| For the Pololu's heatsinks, cut in appropriate pieces. Loctite(-like) screw locking glue works well, too.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Miscellaneous==<br />
<br />
Generation 7 Electronics uses a TTL header for serial communications to the host. Even on PCs with a serial port you need an appropriate USB to TTL cable:<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
! USB to TTL Cable<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=768-1029-ND DigiKey]<br />
| [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=OMDV80DKjRorBEBwmlJ4Pg%3d%3d Mouser]<br />
| [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19&products_id=70 Adafruit Industries]<br />
| [http://www.makershed.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TTL232R MAKE Store]<br />
| [http://store.makerbot.com/cables-and-wires/usb-to-ttl-cable.html MakerBot Industries]<br />
| [http://www.watterott.com/de/TTL-232R-USB-Serial-Converter Watterott]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
An alternative to the USB to TTL cable is the same electronics in form of a small breakout board:<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
! USB to TTL Breakout Board<br />
| [http://www.watterott.com/de/FTDI-Basic-Breakout-5V Watterott]<br />
| [http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9716 Sparkfun]<br />
|-<br />
! Cable for the above<br />
| [http://www.watterott.com/de/Kabel-USB-A-mini-USB-B-5-pol-18m Watterott]<br />
|<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Another alternative is the [http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-TTL-Converter-Module-buildin-in-CP2102-/200393339984?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ea85fb450 E'go USB-TTL adapter], see [[#Using_an_E.27go_USB-TTL_adapter | instructions and limitations]] below.<br />
<br />
Last not least, you need four stepper drivers, of course:<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
! [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s<br />
| [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s<br />
|-<br />
! Open Source Alternative<br />
| [[StepStick]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Assembly Instructions=<br />
<br />
* To find out which components to put where, have the layout on your PC screen available.<br />
* PCBs fabricated with Voronoi paths need more heat, so raise your soldering iron's temperature by about 20 deg Celsius.<br />
* Start with the flattest parts, usually wire bridges or resistors. This way, components won't fall out when you lay the PCB on it's front for soldering. Then continue with parts of raising height, connectors are usually among the last ones.<br />
* The parts lists are sorted with that in mind, simply start at the top and assemble towards the bottom.<br />
* To ease soldering jumper headers and similar components, put a small drop of cyanacrylate glue onto the component side before inserting them. As the PCB is single-sided, this won't hurt the solder point.<br />
* The coil 100&nbsp;uH looks just like a resistor. It's a bit thicker and comes with rings brown-black-brown.<br />
* As 8 pin headers for the Pololus are expensive, many kits come with lower cost 10 pin headers. Cut 2 pins off of each.<br />
* While soldering a pair of these headers, insert a Pololu to ensure good alignment.<br />
<br />
'''Caution''': Don't solder MOSFETs or insert the ATmega until after the [[#Power_Supply_Checks | Power Supply Checks]].<br />
<br />
====Assembly in Pictures====<br />
<br />
Click on the pictures to view them larger.<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4.1 Layout.png | If you're unsure, always refer to this picture of the layout. The designators match those in the parts list.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 01.jpeg | For best solder quality, tin all solder points before inserting components.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 02.jpeg | Start with the 7 wire bridges. They're the matte green tracks in the layout graphics. The matte green track inside the reset switch footprint isn't a wire bridge.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 03.jpeg | R11 and R12 have 10&nbsp;&Omega;, so they're color-coded '''brown-black-black'''.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 04.jpeg | R14 and R22 have 560&nbsp;&Omega;, color code '''green-blue-brown'''.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 05.jpeg | R2, R6, R8, R10, R16 and R18 have 1&nbsp;k&Omega;, color code '''brown-black-red'''.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 06.jpeg | For the thermistors, there are two resistors RT1 and RT2 with 4.7&nbsp;k&Omega;, or '''yellow-violet-red'''.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 07.jpeg | Last of the resistors is R30 with 10&nbsp;k&Omega;, coded '''brown-black-orange'''.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 08.jpeg | D1 and D2 are diodes, so you have to take care of polarity for the first time. Diodes have a white ring on the housing, which must end up closer to the boards boundary.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 09.jpeg | L1 looks like a thick resistor, but is actually a coil. Inserting direction doesn't matter here.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 10.jpeg | U6 is the crystal of ATmega's clock. Insert it in either direction, but try to heat each solder point no longer than 3 seconds.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 11.jpeg | The reset switch fits in two directions, both of which are fine.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 12.jpeg | Now it's a good time to insert all the 12 noise canceling capacitors. Again, direction doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 13.jpeg | LED2, LED5 and the +5V LED are green. As LEDs are diodes, direction matters. The longer of their legs is +, which happens to go into the upper hole for LED2 and LED5, and the left hole for +5V LED. You can also compare with the + sign in the [[:File:Gen7_Board_1.4.1_Layout.png | layout]].<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 14.jpeg | Same for the Standby LED, the longer leg goes into the upper hole.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 15.jpeg | C3 and C4 make the clock crystal swing, insertion direction doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 16.jpeg | CT1 and CT2 are electrolytic capacitors, which have a polarity. Their housing has a white stripe, which is minus (-) and goes into the lower hole.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 17.jpeg | C1, C2, C6 and C7 are electrolytic as well, the minus stripe goes always to the outside of the board. Again, compare to the [[:File:Gen7_Board_1.4.1_Layout.png | layout]].<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 18.jpeg | Now insert the headers for the Pololu's jumpers. Neither of the pins are electrically connected, so each direction is equal. As a mounting aid, you can glue them into the board with a tiny amount of cyanacrylate glue, applied to the plastics part only.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 19.jpeg | In the lower right corner, there are two jumper headers in single pairs, right behind that big capacitor.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 20.jpeg | The only jumper header with three pairs is for connecting the programmer. This is the ICSP header.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 21.jpeg | Changing the appearance of the board quite a bit, insert all 8 female headers for the Pololus. Probably you have to cut them in length, e.g. with a pair of scissors. It's also a good idea to actually insert a Pololu while soldering, to assure a nice fit.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 22.jpeg | Last part from the components set is ATmega's socket. It snaps into place by it's self. The socket has a groove on one of it's short edges, which goes to the left. It's also good tactics to solder the pins at the corners first, then every other pin, finishing with the remaining pins. This ensures good fit and moderate heat distribution.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 23.jpeg | First of the connectors are the smaller 2-pin ones for the thermistors. The snap is on the side closer to the ATmega socket.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 24.jpeg | Three headers for the endstops. Get the snap latches right, to be compatible with other boards.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 25.jpeg | Headers for the motors have four pins. Make sure to use sufficient solder, as these have to carry noticeable current.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 26.jpeg | Last of the KK100 headers is the 6-pin one for the serial connector.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 27.jpeg | The board is supplied with juice through disk power connectors. Again, don't save on solder.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 28.jpeg | Third power supply connector is the ATX24. Insert it with the snap ramp towards the center of the board.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 29.jpeg | Last connectors are both heater headers. After that, you're temporarily done with soldering.<br />
<br />
File: Gen7 Board 1.4 Assembly 30.jpeg | Wanna go in pretty soldering contest with me?<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
As you can see, neither the MOSFETs nor the ATmega are inserted yet. We'll come back to that later.<br />
<br />
Also, there are two rows of holes above and below the ATmega which are left empty. These are for the extension board header. Soldering this header makes only sense if you want to connect an extension board, so do this as part of the extension board assembly.<br />
<br />
=Setup=<br />
<br />
These steps show how to get from a soldered mainboard to a working one.<br />
<br />
==Possible Power Sources==<br />
<br />
Generation 7 Electronics has two options to satisfy you machine's power needs.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7_v1.4_Power_Options.jpeg | 500px | center]]<br />
<br />
====Option 1====<br />
<br />
This is the recommended one. Take your PC power supply, plug in the ATX24, as well as both Disk Power connectors and be done. This will supply the electronics with everything needed, no modification of the supply required.<br />
<br />
One point to take care of is, PC PSUs have two or three strings with several Disk Power connectors on each string. Each of the strings can supply about 10 Ampéres only, so make sure you plug in only one connector of each string into Gen7's headers if you use a heated bed or some other high-current device.<br />
<br />
In this scenario, the ATmega can run and talk to the host with the PSU turned "off" (in Standby mode). So, don't be surprised if you start working with your Mendel and the PSU is still quiet. Each G-code command requiring more juice will turn the PSU on, and some time after the last command off again.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': the ATX24 header is backwards compatible to the older ATX20 connector, so if you have a PSU with an ATX20 connector, plug in that. There's only one position where it fits (without pushing very hard) and there is no drawback in using an older supply:<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7_ATX20_in_ATX24.jpeg | 300px | center]]<br />
<br />
====Option 2====<br />
<br />
This is for people with a non-PC power supply. Make connectors feeding 5&nbsp;V to the upper Disk Power header, as well as 12&nbsp;V into both of them. The ATX24 is left empty.<br />
<br />
No standby feature here, ATmega, Pololus, motors and heaters are supplied all the time.<br />
<br />
==Power Source Selection==<br />
<br />
After choosing an option for the power supply, you have to tell the board where to get 5&nbsp;V from.<br />
<br />
[[File: Gen7_v1.4_Power_Selection.jpeg | 500px | center]]<br />
<br />
In the lower right corner of the board you see two jumper headers.<br />
<br />
* ATX20/ATX24: recommended for option 1.<br />
* Disk Power: recommended for option 2.<br />
<br />
You may jumper '''one, and only one''' of them.<br />
<br />
==Power Supply Checks==<br />
<br />
With the 5&nbsp;V selection jumper and all power connectors inserted, you can take a few measurements to make sure your brand new ATmega won't blow up when inserted.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7_v1.4_Power_Checks.jpeg | 500px | center]]<br />
<br />
* Red: power supply inserted according to any option. In case of an Option 1, PSU not yet activated.<br />
* Blue: as above, with PSU activated or power supply according to Option 2.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': in the picture, no 5&nbsp;V selection jumper is inserted, but you need the right one here.<br />
<br />
Checks:<br />
<br />
# No smoke? Great.<br />
# The yellow LED in the lower right corner is lighted? Even better.<br />
# If you've chosen Option 1, short the wire bridge with the top right pin of the ATmega socket like the dashed green line in the picture. This should activate the power supply.<br />
# At the same time, the green LED in the lower right corner should go on as well.<br />
# If you have a voltage meter, measure the voltages shown in the picture. Dots mean wire bridges, arrows mean pins.<br />
# Also, check each of the pins of the ATmega socket, none of them should have more than 0.5&nbsp;volts, except those marked to have 5&nbsp;V. On the ATmega socket, this is pin 9, 10, 21, 30, 39 and 40 (counter-clockwise, starting at the lower left).<br />
# Check the pins in the lower row of the Pololus. Neither of the unmarked ones should exceed 0.5&nbsp;volts as well.<br />
<br />
With everything within the limits, you can pretty safely assume to not blow up the expensive parts when inserting them.<br />
<br />
==Insert Semiconductors==<br />
<br />
Now, with some safety tests done, it's a good time to insert semiconductors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7_v1.4.1_Semiconductors.jpeg | 400px | center]]<br />
<br />
* Disconnect the power supply entirely.<br />
* Both MOSFETs have the same housing, still they're different types. Make sure the one marked IRFZ&nbsp;44N is closer to the Pololu headers, the one marked IRLB&nbsp;8743 goes closer to the board's border.<br />
* Solder both MOSFETs with the flat side towards the center of the board into their place. Use sufficient solder, as high currents are flowing here.<br />
* Insert the ATmega into it's socket. Like every integrated circuit with such a housing, there's a groove on one of the ends of the black box. This groove shows towards the MOSFET side of the board, the non-grooved end is close to the ATX24 header. Done right, you can read the text on the housing from the ATX24 header side correctly.<br />
<br />
==Prepare your Arduino IDE==<br />
<br />
* Download and unpack or install the [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino IDE]. You need v1.0.3 or later. If you insist on v0023 or earlier for some reason, see [[Gen7_Board_1.3.1#Prepare_your_Arduino_IDE | Gen7 v1.3.1 instructions]], but the avrdude coming with these earlier versions can't write to an ATmega1284P.<br />
* Also install [[Gen7 Arduino IDE Support]].<br />
* Fire up your Arduino IDE.<br />
* Under Menu -> Tools -> Board, select your variant of Gen7 board from the six new entries. They differ in processor type and clock speed.<br />
* Under Menu -> Tools -> Serial Port, select the correct serial/com port.<br />
<br />
==Bootloader==<br />
<br />
If you bought your ATmega with one of the Gen7 kits, the bootloader should have already been uploaded. Any other bootloader, like the one used for the [[Generation 3 Electronics | Sanguino]], [[RAMPS]], [[Sanguinololu]] or whatever is also fine.<br />
<br />
If you bought an factory fresh ATmega, e.g. from a general electronics supplier, the ATmega will be without bootloader. Bootloader binaries come with the [[Gen7 Arduino IDE Support]] package, so upload instructions can also be found [[Gen7 Arduino IDE Support#Bootloader Upload | there]].<br />
<br />
If you're in doubt, just continue with the setup. A missing bootloader will result in a timeout error when attempting to upload a firmware.<br />
<br />
==Serial Connection==<br />
<br />
It's recommended to either use a USB to TTL cable or USB to TTL breakout board. Custom solutions and different converters are possible, see [[#Customisations & Others]].<br />
<br />
Here's how you connect them, GND is always the pin to the left:<br />
<br />
{| border="0" align="center" width="90%"<br />
| [[File:Gen7_Serial_Connection_With_USB2TTL_Breakout_Board.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
| [[File:Gen7_Serial_Connection_With_USB2TTL_Cable.jpeg | 300px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Simply plug the connector in, connect USB to your PC and a new serial port should show up in your PC's operating system.<br />
<br />
==Your First Firmware Upload==<br />
<br />
After all this assembling, and with this complex firmware thing ahead, whouldn't it be a good idea to upload some test firmware to test wether basic things work? Of course!<br />
<br />
You can find such a [https://github.com/Traumflug/Generation_7_Electronics/tree/master/arduino%20support/SetupTest test firmware in Gen7's Github repository].<br />
<br />
'''Note''': ATmegas coming with kits from Traumflug or paoparts.com have this test already uploaded, so you can see your ATmega is working, even before connecting the serial line. It doesn't hurt to upload SetupTest a second time, though, just to get used to the firmware upload process.<br />
<br />
Here we go:<br />
<br />
# Download that file SetupText.ino. If it opens in the browser window, do a "Save as...".<br />
# Prepare your Gen7 by inserting power plugs, the serial converter, the USB plug of that converter and so on.<br />
# Start your Arduino IDE.<br />
# With the IDE, open SetupTest.ino. You'll be asked if you want to create a folder of the same name, click "Yes".<br />
# Make sure the right serial port and the right type of board is still selected in the Test menu.<br />
# Hit the "Upload" button (the second from the right).<br />
<br />
After a second or two, you should see something like<br />
<br />
Binary sketch size: 2142 bytes (of a 63488 byte maximum)<br />
<br />
in the black text field, and after another second of blinking on the serial connector, it should say "Done uploading." right above that text field.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7_v1.3_SetupTest.png | 368px | center]]<br />
<br />
Now you can safely assume uploading a firmware works. The test firmware has a few more features:<br />
<br />
# If you open the IDE's serial monitor and listen at 9600 baud, you can read what the ATmega is doing. If you can read clear text, the serial line is working.<br />
# Three or four seconds after the upload, the power supply should spring to life, blink the LED of HEATER1 a few times and turn the PSU off again. To see the LED blinking, 12V for the heaters has to be connected.<br />
# The same happens after each hit of the Reset button on the board, independently from the IDE or the serial connection.<br />
<br />
====Troubleshooting Firmware Upload====<br />
<br />
Some USB-TTL adapters (the recommended ones do) don't trigger the auto-reset. Typical symptoms are messages like:<br />
<br />
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout<br />
<br />
This doesn't stop you from having fun, it's more an inconvenience. You have to reset manually for each upload:<br />
<br />
* Click the "Verify" button in Arduino IDE's toolbar to get an idea how long it takes until the "Binary sketch size"-message appears.<br />
* The trick is now to press and release the reset button on the board just before this message appears. After a reset, the bootloader waits 3 seconds for an incoming firmware upload and the Arduino IDE attempts the upload just after showing this message. You get the idea.<br />
* On failed attempts, Arduino IDE usually can't stop the avrdude process. On Linux or Mac&nbsp;OS&nbsp;X, type a <code>killall avrdude</code> in a terminal to help out. On Windows, use the task manager to kill the avrdude process.<br />
<br />
Other troubleshooting:<br />
<br />
* Sometimes, the driver of the USB-TTL adapter simply messes up. If nothing works as expected, it's a good idea to unplug the adapter from the PC and insert it again after a few seconds. Unplugging the USB side from the PC is different from unplugging the serial side from the Gen7.<br />
* USB hubs between the adapter and the PC can mess up, too. Same procedure to fix it.<br />
<br />
==Microstepping==<br />
<br />
Last not least, you probably want to set up microstepping to something other than the default. The default is halfstepping. Smaller microsteps make the motors run smoother, but also raise the computing load for the ATmega. The smallest steps possible are 1/16 microstepping.<br />
<br />
Feel free to select different settings for each of the motors, e.g. 1/8 microstepping for threaded rod axes (Z) and 1/16 microstepping for belt driven axes (X, Y).<br />
<br />
Selecting microstepping is done with the jumpers in front of each of the Pololus, they refer to MS2 and MS3. Allegro documents also know about MS1, which is hard wired to High in Gen7. Plugging a jumper sets High, while leaving the header free sets Low. Here's a detail picture of a Gen7, with MS2 set to High, MS3 set to Low:<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7_Microstepping_Jumpers.jpeg | 300px | center]]<br />
<br />
The following table shows what you get with each combination:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br />
! MS2 !! MS3<br />
! Microstep Resolution<br />
|-<br />
| Open || Open || Half step<br />
|-<br />
| Open || Plugged || ''Not allowed!''<br />
|-<br />
| Plugged || Open || Eighth step<br />
|-<br />
| Plugged || Plugged || Sixteenth step<br />
|}<br />
<br />
You can change microstepping at any time, even while a motor is running. This will obviously change the resolution so only useful while setting up to see how the drivers and motors work together.<br />
<br />
=Firmware=<br />
<br />
In principle, you can run any of the ATmega compatible RepRap Firmwares on this board. Adjust the I/O pin layout, adjust compile time options for no secondary board/no RS485 and proceed. Just like [[Generation2Electronics | Gen2]], [[RAMPS]], [[Sanguinololu]] or similar electronics.<br />
<br />
There's also no Gen7-specific choice for the slicer or the G-code sending application. Use what you prefer or what owners of other electronics use.<br />
<br />
==Teacup Firmware==<br />
<br />
Teacup's [[Teacup_Firmware#Simple_Installation | Simple Installation]] instructions show nicely how to do this. Some tweaks are required for Gen7:<br />
<br />
* Have your Arduino IDE prepared for Gen7, as [[#Preprare_your_Arduino_IDE | explained above]].<br />
* Download the Gen7 tree [https://github.com/Traumflug/Teacup_Firmware/tree/Gen7 Here] instead of the standard download.<br />
* Use the config.gen7-v1.4.h and ThermistorTable.double.h you find there. - eg, duplicate config.gen7-v1.4.h file then rename to config.h<br />
<br />
With config.h left untouched, at least something should move. This is fine for first tests, but not sufficient to have everything right for your machine. Edit your config.h further to match your machine and your setup. Config.h has a lot of comments inside the file, helping on the details. For example, STEPS_PER_MM_X should be set according to your choice of microstepping.<br />
<br />
Reprap software is in constant flux, so try to use recent software both for host software and slicing, or you may run into compatibility problems. For example, the original reprap host software may not report the temperature correctly (if at all). Using [[Pronterface]] for host software solved this problem for one user. Using [[Slic3r]] rather than [[Skeinforge]] solved another problem where the Teacup firmware would be stuck forever 'waiting for target temp'.<br />
<br />
==Repetier Firmware==<br />
Tested on 644 @ 20Mhz. See [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?147,97131,110521#msg-110521 this post] for sample config and pins files. Should be integrated into the default firmware soon.<br />
<br />
Here is the [https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware github download] page, and documentation is on the [https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware/wiki github wiki]<br />
<br />
The pin layout has changed between v1.3.1 and v1.4, so you have to adjust this. For hints, see section [[#Other Configurations | Other Configurations]].<br />
<br />
==FiveD Firmware==<br />
<br />
[[Gen7_Board_1.3.1#FiveD_Firmware | Earlier versions]] of Gen7 had a working configuration for FiveD. As the pin layout has changed since then, you have to adjust this. For hints, see section [[#Other Configurations | Other Configurations]].<br />
<br />
==Sprinter, Marlin==<br />
<br />
It took really long until Sprinter and Marlin started to be compatible with non-16-MHz electronics. As of this writing, Marlin as well as Sprinter Experimental should generally work.<br />
<br />
The pin layout has changed between v1.3.1 and v1.4, so you may have to adjust this on Sprinter. For hints, see section [[#Other Configurations | Other Configurations]].<br />
<br />
==Other Configurations==<br />
<br />
The following should help to configure other firmwares.<br />
<br />
====Pinout====<br />
<br />
+--------\/--------+ <br />
INT8 (D 0) PB0 1|> Xmin Temp_Bed {|40 PA0 (AI 0 / D31)<br />
INT1 (D 1) PB1 2|> Ymin Temp_Ext {|39 PA1 (AI 1 / D30)<br />
INT2 (D 2) PB2 3|> Zmin Xstep >|38 PA2 (AI 2 / D29)<br />
PWM (D 3) PB3 4|< Heat_Bed Xdir >|37 PA3 (AI 3 / D28)<br />
PWM (D 4) PB4 5|< Heat_Ext Ystep >|36 PA4 (AI 4 / D27)<br />
MOSI (D 5) PB5 6| Ydir >|35 PA5 (AI 5 / D26)<br />
MIS0 (D 6) PB6 7| MotEn >|34 PA6 (AI 6 / D25)<br />
SCK (D 7) PB7 8| |33 PA7 (AI 7 / D24)<br />
RST 9| |32 AREF <br />
VCC 10| |31 GND <br />
GND 11| |30 AVCC <br />
XTAL2 12| Zstep >|29 PC7 (D 23) <br />
XTAL1 13| Zdir >|28 PC6 (D 22) <br />
RX0 (D 8) PD0 14| |27 PC5 (D 21) TDI <br />
TX0 (D 9) PD1 15| |26 PC4 (D 20) TDO <br />
RX1 (D 10) PD2 16| Estep >|25 PC3 (D 19) TMS <br />
TX1 (D 11) PD3 17| Edir >|24 PC2 (D 18) TCK <br />
PWM (D 12) PD4 18| |23 PC1 (D 17) SDA <br />
PWM (D 13) PD5 19| |22 PC0 (D 16) SCL <br />
PWM (D 14) PD6 20| PwrEn >|21 PD7 (D 15) PWM <br />
+------------------+ <br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! Function !! ATmega Name !! Teacup !! FiveD !! Direction in firmware<br />
|-<br />
| X Step || PA2 || DIO29 || 29 || Digital Output<br />
|-<br />
| X Direction || PA3 || DIO28 || 28 || Digital Output<br />
|-<br />
| X Min || PB0 || DIO0 || 0 || Digital Input<br />
|-<br />
| Y Step || PA4 || DIO27 || 27 || Digital Output<br />
|-<br />
| Y Direction || PA5 || DIO26 || 26 || Digital Output<br />
|-<br />
| Y Min || PB1 || DIO1 || 1 || Digital Input<br />
|-<br />
| Z Step || PC7 || DIO23 || 23 || Digital Output<br />
|-<br />
| Z Direction || PC6 || DIO22 || 22 || Digital Output<br />
|-<br />
| Z Min || PB2 || DIO2 || 2 || Digital Input<br />
|-<br />
| Extruder Step || PC3 || DIO19 || 19 || Digital Output<br />
|-<br />
| Extruder Direction || PC2 || DIO18 || 18 || Digital Output<br />
|-<br />
| Power Enable || PD7 || DIO15 || 15 || Open Drain Output, active low<br />
|-<br />
| Motors Enable || PA6 || DIO25 || 25 || Digital Output<br />
|-<br />
| Heater 1 || PB4 || DIO4 || 4 || Digital Output<br />
|-<br />
| Heater 2 || PB3 || DIO3 || 3 || Digital Output<br />
|-<br />
| Temp 1 || PA0 || AIO0 || 0 || Analog Input<br />
|-<br />
| Temp 2 || PA1 || AIO1 || 1 || Analog Input<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Changes from v1.3:<br />
<br />
* Max endstops are gone.<br />
* Min endstops are now PB0 / PB1 / PB2.<br />
* Order of steppers is inverted (X Y Z E instead of E Z Y X).<br />
* All pins on the analog port one to the left (pin number - 1).<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/triffid/Teacup_Firmware/commit/9c126e3387c2272937b913f6367c2a4d19eaedef This commit] to Teacup Firmware should also help for upgrading other firmwares.<br />
<br />
=Connecting Devices=<br />
<br />
At this point, you should have the firmware uploading process in place. To simplify the descriptions here, usage of the Teacup firmware is assumed.<br />
<br />
You could also have a look at http://wiki.openhardware.co.za/index.php/Wire_a_RepRap_3D_Printer_to_a_Gen7_Electronics_Board for some graphical information<br />
<br />
==Opto Endstops==<br />
<br />
Start with this, as it's simple and some firmwares depend on a working endstop to move the stepper motors. Gen7 accepts all endstops delivering a 5&nbsp;V signal, not only Gen7 Endstops, as long as you get the wiring right.<br />
<br />
# Make a 3-wire cable, long enough to reach from the Gen7 board to the X endstop place and solder a connector onto one end.<br />
# Plug this into the Gen7 at the X endstop connector. This is the 3-pin connector closest to the MOSFETs.<br />
# Connect to your Teacup and send a M200. This will turn on your power supply and tell the current status of the endstops.<br />
# While the power supply is running, use a voltage meter to find the 5&nbsp;V wire. Measure against GND, the center wire.<br />
# The third wire is the signal.<br />
# Make the other connector according to the requirements of your endstop.<br />
# Plug both connectors in and test the endstop by sending M200 repeatedly while interrupting the light barrier with a piece of cardboard or not.<br />
# If M200 reports "1" while there is no cardboard in the barrier, you have to invert the endstop signal. In Teacup, this is done by toggling the comment in the line containing X_INVERT_MIN in config.h. After each change, you have to re-upload the firmware.<br />
# You're done for the X endstop, repeat for Y and Z.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7_v1.4_Endstop_Connection.jpeg | 400px | center]]<br />
<br />
The picture shows a Gen7 Endstop connected to a Gen7 Board. Holding the endstop this way, the left pin is the signal, the center pin is GND and the right pin is 5&nbsp;V on both connectors. The screw driver is there for fixing the picture arrangement, only.<br />
<br />
====Troubleshooting Opto Endstops====<br />
<br />
If your firmware doesn't report what you expect, you can measure the signal with a voltage meter. If the power supply is turned on, the signal pin on the connector as well as the corresponding ATmega pin should change between 0&nbsp;V and 5&nbsp;V if you put something into the light barrier or not. If this is the case, your firmware is at fault, typically due to a misconfigured pin mapping in config.h/configure.h/configuration.h.<br />
<br />
==Stepper Motors==<br />
<br />
====Stepper Wiring====<br />
<br />
First of all, the colours of your motor's wires are unreliable. Manufacturers sometimes change them without notice.<br />
<br />
For finding out which pairs of wires are connected to each of the two coils in your motor, there's a nice description in the [[Stepper_wiring#.22pair.22_wires_on_4_wire_motors | Stepper Wiring page]]. For the more rare cases, like 6- or 8-wire motors, look up and down on that page.<br />
<br />
Your motor connector has four pins. The left two of these pins shall be connected to the wires of one coil, the other two to the wires of the other coil. It doesn't matter which of the two wires of one coil goes to which pin; at worst your motor will run the wrong direction. It also doesn't matter which coil is on which pair of pins.<br />
<br />
It's a good idea to solder the crimp pins to the wires. A reliable contact is crucial.<br />
<br />
That done, motors should start moving when you send movement commands to the firmware.<br />
<br />
====Double Steppers====<br />
<br />
Many RepRap printer designs use two stepper motors to drive one axis. For example the Z&nbsp;axis on the Prusa Mendel. In this case, both motors are connected to the same stepper driver.<br />
<br />
In principle, two motors can be connected in a parallel or in a serial fashion. Both works. As we need more torque than high RPM speeds on this axis, a serial connection is the better choice. It goes like this:<br />
<br />
stepper driver pin 1 ---<br />
--- motor 1 coil 1 in --- motor 1 coil 1 out ---<br />
--- motor 2 coil 1 in --- motor 2 coil 1 out ---<br />
--- stepper driver pin 2<br />
<br />
Repeat the same for the other coils and pin&nbsp;3/4 of the stepper driver.<br />
<br />
When moving such a setup for the first time, try with small moves, first. There's a chance the motors rotate the opposite direction. In this case, swap the wires of one coil on one of the motors.<br />
<br />
====Adjusting the Pololus/StepSticks====<br />
<br />
With the motor currents required to move a RepRap printer, Pololus/StepSticks usually require a heatsink on the chip, sometimes additionally a fan directed to them. Gladly, they have a pretty reliable thermal protection built in, so overloading them doesn't cause permanent harm.<br />
<br />
The [[Sanguinololu#Pololu_drivers_current_limit_configuration | Sanguinololu wiki page]] has a nice writeup on how to adjust stepper drivers by measuring voltages.<br />
<br />
Here's another way:<br />
<br />
# Work on only one axis at a time.<br />
# Make sure the axis can be moved by hand easily with motors powered off. No kind of current helps if your axis blocks mechanically.<br />
# Turn the trimpot full counter-clockwise.<br />
# Turn the trimpot clockwise 1/8 turn.<br />
# Send commands to your firmware to make this motor move. Slow speeds (G1 F50) first, then faster.<br />
# If the motor just beeps, but shows no movement, or if you get missing steps, turn the trimpot clockwise another 1/8 turn. Things should get better.<br />
# When you've reached a position where everything moves without step losses, you can turn another 1/8 clockwise as safety margin.<br />
# That's it, repeat for each of the other axes.<br />
<br />
====Troubleshooting Stepper Motors====<br />
<br />
'''Note''': before disconnecting a motor or a stepper driver, '''always''' power off at least the 12&nbsp;V power supply. On a Gen7 powered via the ATX20/24 connector and running Teacup firmware, this is done by pressing the reset button.<br />
<br />
* If something doesn't work on one axis, but works fine on another, change motors or stepper drivers with a working axis and try again. This helps finding defective parts. All axes are electronically the same, so you can swap stuff to your heart's content.<br />
* If a motor moves in one direction only, either the endstop part of your firmware's configuration doesn't match hardware or the DIR pin doesn't get a signal. The DIR pin is the rightmost in the lower row of the stepper driver header and can be measured with a voltage meter. It should change between 0&nbsp;V and 5&nbsp;V when changing direction.<br />
* If a stepper moves the wrong direction, you can change the direction by swapping both pins of one motor coil in the connector. For example, ABCD becomes ABDC. Another way is to invert the direction in your firmware configuration, of course. Both methods work equally well.<br />
* If your motor just hums or beeps, there are several possible reasons:<br />
** Mechanical overload. To avoid that for sure, remove the belt from the motor's pulley.<br />
** Commanded speed too high. Try with a lower feedrate, like F50 (or 0.5 mm/s in Pronterface).<br />
** Your motor is miswired. Check [[#Stepper Wiring]] again.<br />
* If there is no sign of movement at all, not even humming or beeping, check wether the ENABLE pin goes low when attempting a movement. 0&nbsp;V = steppers enabled, 5&nbsp;V = steppers disabled. It's the leftmost pin in the lower row of the stepper driver header.<br />
* If a motor starts to move, but has repeated dropouts or starts stuttering, the stepper driver chip apparently overheats and runs into it's thermal protection. Add a heatsink, attach a fan or reduce motor current, depending on your situation.<br />
* If your stepper drivers and/or motors warm up while there is no movement ongoing: that's normal. Stepper motors suck the most energy while powered up, but at stillstand.<br />
<br />
==Extruder, Heated Bed==<br />
<br />
An extruder and a heated bed are pretty much the same from the electronics point of view. Both have a temperature sensor as well as a heating element, which are -- in the electronics view -- independent from each other. So please read on in the following two sections.<br />
<br />
==Thermistor==<br />
<br />
This one is simple, too. The thermistor has only two wires and it doesn't matter which way you connect them. As of Gen7 v1.4 the thermistor runs on standby power, so you can see the current temperature at any time.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': Make sure there is no electrical connection between thermistor and heater wires. Heaters typically run at 12&nbsp;V, and remain at that potential even when turned off, which would blow the ATmega input pin. Usually, neither wire of the thermistor nor one of the heater wires are connected to the metal housing of an extruder, so you have double safety.<br />
<br />
It doesn't matter which thermistor connector you use for what, as long as it matches your firmware configuration. The circuitry for both thermistors is the same, just the label in the PCB layout and the ATmega pin is different. So, if your extruder temperature is reported as bed temperature, you can solve this by either swapping the pin mapping in your firmware configuration, or by swapping the connectors physically.<br />
<br />
To test the thermistor, connect it. Then send M105 repeatedly while warming up the thing with your fingers. Likely it isn't exactly accurate at room temperature, but it should react to the warming.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7_v1.4_Thermistor_Connection.jpeg | 400px | center]]<br />
<br />
'''Note''': In the picture it might look like both wires of the thermistor touch each other. Be assured, they don't. :-)<br />
<br />
The white thermistor wire insulation shown in the picture is PTFE tape plumbers use for sealing threaded hose connections. It's very thin. Insulate each wire seperately, then both together. If you can find shrink tube thin enough to fit between those two wires or you've bought a hotend which already came with an insulated thermistor, that's fine as well.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': Gen7 can do quite accurate temperature measurements, if you make your own temperature table. On how to do this and on why this might be not neccessary, see the long comment in [https://github.com/triffid/Teacup_Firmware/blob/master/ThermistorTable.double.h Teacup's ThermistorTable.double.h].<br />
<br />
====Troubleshooting the Thermistor====<br />
<br />
* If the temperature readout is zero, you likely have configured the wrong pin in your firmware or a broken thermistor wiring.<br />
* Unplug the thermistor and measure it's resistance at the connector. At room temperature (25&nbsp;°C), it should have about it's nominal value (10&nbsp;k&Omega; / 100&nbsp;k&Omega; / 200&nbsp;k&Omega;).<br />
* A short in the thermistor wiring results in a very high temperature readout, like 800&nbsp;°C.<br />
<br />
==Heaters==<br />
<br />
This one is simple, too. The heater is a resistor without polarity, so connect both wires to the two connector pins. To get it working, you also have to have the corresponding MOSFET soldered in.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': If you start heating for the first time, make sure the corresponding temperature readout raises, too. In case you map your heater to the wrong thermistor, the firmware won't notice the temperature raise and won't stop heating when the desired temperature is reached, eventually leading to destruction. To stop a run-away heater, press the reset button.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': Especially heated beds run with a lot of current, so make sure your connectors are clean. Dirt here means a poor electrical connection, heating up, eventually melting the connector. Even in dry rooms, contacts can oxidize. Battery terminal grease was used successfully to prevent and even revert oxidisation.<br />
<br />
Testing the heater:<br />
<br />
* Send M104 S50 to command the extruder heater to reach 50&nbsp;°C.<br />
* Watch the corresponding MOSFET's LED lighting up. It's brightness gives a hint to the current PWM value used.<br />
* Send M105 repeatedly to watch the temperature raising.<br />
* As the temperature reaches about 50&nbsp;°C, the LED should go darker and the temperature raise should stop.<br />
* Send M104 S0 to stop the heater. The LED should go dim or off, the extruder should cool down.<br />
* Do the same for the heated bed, if you have one. Heated bed temperature is set with M140.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7_v1.4_Heater_Connection.jpeg | 400px | center]]<br />
<br />
====Troubleshooting a Heater====<br />
<br />
* Does your temperature readout work, i.e. does it initially read something like room temperature instead of some unreasonable value? Most firmwares have a protection built in to heat only if they have reasonable confidence temperature measurement is working.<br />
* Can you measure 12&nbsp;V on the lower connector pin when the power supply is turned on? If not, the lower Molex 4-pin connector delivers no juice on the 12&nbsp;V rail.<br />
* Does the LED light up, at least dimly? If not, the MOSFET is either blown, gets no signal from the ATmega or there is no 12&nbsp;V supply.<br />
* An entirely disconnected signal pin, i.e. due to a firmware misconfiguration, usually results in a dimly lighted LED, too. MOSFETs are sensitive enough to turn on partly by picking up random electromagnetic noise.<br />
* The signal can be measured with a voltage meter on the 10&nbsp;&Omega; resistor right next to the MOSFET. The higher the PWM value, the closer the (average) signal should be to 5&nbsp;V.<br />
<br />
=Customisations & Others=<br />
<br />
<br />
This part describes possible modifcations for advanced users only.<br />
<br />
==Non-12-V-Voltages==<br />
<br />
While it's very practical to use 12&nbsp;volts as they come out of the power supply, Gen7 is prepared for other voltages, too. Even better, you can supply different voltages for motors and heaters.<br />
<br />
Possible usages:<br />
<br />
* 12&nbsp;V for the heaters, 24&nbsp; for the motors. This will still allow to use standard Reprap heating elements for the extruder and heated bed, while the motors can now run faster. Motor supply voltage is only limited by the Pololus and can go up to 35&nbsp;volts.<br />
* 12&nbsp;V for the motors, 5&nbsp;V for the heaters. This whould wear your power supply more evenly.<br />
* 12&nbsp;V for the motors, 3.3&nbsp;V for something like EDM or inductive heated nozzles. Remember, the IRFZ44N can switch pretty fast, and the ATmega has frequency/PWM generators on board.<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
On where to supply what, see the [[#Possible_Power_Sources | picture above]]. Simply rewire the disk power connectors to your needs and make sure all power sources contact at least one GND pin, to give them a common ground.<br />
<br />
The 5&nbsp;volts on the upper disk power connector is not needed if you use the ATX20/24 connector, but don't supply there a different voltage, or a voltage from a different power supply, either.<br />
<br />
==Hooking up a Fan==<br />
<br />
Using a [[SevenSwitch]], you can connect a fan/blower, too. Either by connecting it to two of the extension board pins (one for signal, one for GND), or by fetching these two pins from the ICSP header. [[User:Paoparts | Paoparts]] did the latter and documented it here (french with pictures and code snippets): [http://paoparts.com/blog/2012/05/20/ventilateur-pour-lextrudeur-commande-par-la-gen7/ Ventilateur pour l’extrudeur, commandé par la GEN7 avec Teacup].<br />
<br />
On how to define fans and other devices in Teacup firmware, see [[Teacup_Firmware#Heater_.26_Fan_Setup | there]].<br />
<br />
==Serial Connection==<br />
<br />
If you want a custom solution, you can create one, of course. Just connecting an RS-232 port to the serial connector won't work, however, even if you ignored the different voltage levels. ATmega's serial signal is inverted (Logical 0 = 5V, Logical 1 = 0V). Here's the serial connector's pinout:<br />
<br />
[[File: Gen7_Serial_Pinout.png | center | 250px]]<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<br />
{| border="1" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br />
! 1<br />
! 2<br />
! 3<br />
! 4<br />
! 5<br />
! 6<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
| CTS (set to GND)<br />
| (+5 Volts)<br />
| RxD<br />
| TxD<br />
| Reset<br />
|}<br />
<br />
RxD is ATmega's pin&nbsp;14 (data to the chip); TxD is ATmega's pin&nbsp;15 (data from the chip).<br />
<br />
Pin&nbsp;3 has 5&nbsp;V on most USB-TTL adapters, but is unconnected on the board. Feeding in 5&nbsp;V here would conflict with the (slightly different) 5&nbsp;V from the ATX power supply.<br />
<br />
Pin&nbsp;6 is usually connected to the serial line's DTR. This triggers a reset each time you start a connection to the ATmega and is very convenient when uploading firmware - no pressing of the reset button needed, then. Arduinos have this hardwired. If you keep pin&nbsp;6 free, press the reset button each time your IDE (avrdude) attempts an upload.<br />
<br />
==Using an E'go USB-TTL adapter==<br />
<br />
This converter is cheap, uses the [http://www.silabs.com/products/interface/usbtouart/Pages/default.aspx Silicon Labs CP2102 chip] install drivers from the link, and basically works:<br />
<br />
[[File:E'go USB-TTL Converter on Gen7.jpeg | 400px | center]]<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<br />
{| border="1" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br />
| '''Gen7'''<br />
| GND (Pin 1)<br />
| +5 Volts (Pin 3)<br />
| RxD (Pin 4)<br />
| TxD (Pin 5)<br />
|-<br />
| '''USB-TTL adapter'''<br />
| GND (Pin 5)<br />
| +5 Volts (Pin 6)<br />
| TxD (Pin 3)<br />
| RxD (Pin 4)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Important here is to ''not'' connect both Reset pins.<br />
<br />
What you can't get is auto-reset. So you have to press the reset button when uploading a firmware, shortly ''before'' the 'Binary sketch size is...' message appears.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': for advanced hackers it's possible to add auto reset functionality to any adapter using this chipset by connecting the DTR "pin" of the chip itself directly to the RST pin on the adapter.<br />
<br />
==== Suppliers of this adapter ====<br />
<br />
* [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=USB+TTL+CP2102 eBay].<br />
<br />
== Fortified Heater Traces ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Gen7Board 1.4 soldered traces.jpg|right|x400px]]<br />
<br />
There is [http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_363615&feature=iv&src_vid=cScVqD6eIaU&v=L9q5vwCESEQ evidence] that adding solder to a PCB trace can lower its resistance by as much as half and increase its electrical and thermal conductance. Both are beneficial in the areas on the board where the highest current flows. Since there is no solder mask in the isolation milled version of this board, it is relatively easy to add additional solder to the 12 volt and ground traces that serve the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Hot_End extruder nozzle] and optional [http://reprap.org/wiki/HBP heated build platform] (HBP).<br />
<br />
There are disadvantages to adding large amounts of solder.<br />
<br />
First, this cannot be done easily without a powerful soldering station with 50 watts or more. A disposable 15 watt soldering pencil would take an extremely long time to melt this much solder, if it could at all. The wide voronoi traces radiate the heat outwards rapidly making a powerful heat source more than a luxury.<br />
<br />
Second, lingering heat on components is a bad practice, especially at the high temperatures required by RoHS lead-free solders. The bulk of the solder addition process should be done in the absence of the LEDs, resistors, diodes, MOSFETs and plastic header connectors. Once the solder is added up to--yet not over--the holes drilled for those components, they can be carefully added. Here again, a low powered heat source may have all of its energy dissipated before it can bring the junction up to temperature. (note the MOSFETs have not yet been added to the board pictured here) <br />
<br />
The advantages are a cooler board, a cooler MOSFET and heater pins, and faster nozzle and HBP warm-ups. Yes, solder isn’t free, but if it can increase the reliability and performance of the heater section of your board then it’s probably better on the traces then on a spool in the workbench drawer.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Generation 7 electronics]]</div>Peter6960