Aluminatus TrinityOne Software Electronics

Aluminatus TrinityOne Documentation

Overview | Buy Aluminatus TrinityOne | Assembly | Software/Electronics | Components | Printing | Versions

Software

Download The Software

• Slicing Software
  • Download Slic3r. This is the software you'll use to convert your 3D model into G-Code. G-Code is what the Aluminatus uses to actually print your model.
  • Alternatively, download KISSlicer. Note, this is less widely used by the 3D Printing community

• Printer Control/Gcode Reviewing Software
  • Download Pronterface. This software allows you to print something over USB and manually drive around your bot.
  • Download Repetier Host. This alternative software also allows you to print something over USB and manually driver around your bot. But it also features a fantastic G-Code view to allow you to verify the G-Code before printing.

• Firmware Updating Software
  • Download Arduino. This allows you the open the firmware (Marlin), make changes, and upload new firmware to your bot's electronics.
  • Download Marlin. This is the actual firmware files for your electronics. It has been preconfigured and is ready to go.
    • Place the Marlin folder in the Arduino directory for it to be recognized.
    • To flash the firmware to your electronics, refer to this guide.

Helpful Firmware Tweaks

• Increase the PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE in the config.h file of Marlin to 20.
  • The default for the value is 10. With a 24 V system, 10 degrees for the hotend is about 1 second when initially heating up so it would overshoot a lot.
• Make sure your PID is tuned.
  • Values I like: Send M301 P12.5 I0.18 D12.0 to update your hotend PID settings. Send M304 P125.0 I0.3 D300.0 to update your Bed PID settings. Now send M500 to save the PID settings to EEPROM.

Electronics

RAMPS

Necessary Additional Steps

• If you are experiencing missed steps, ensure the Pololu stepper drivers are set to the appropriate current.
  • Current recommendation is a Vref of 0.460 V, setting output current to 1.15 amps

• Provide for cooling of RAMPS / Pololu stepper drivers if LCD panel is installed, blocking fan flow
  • Re-locate 40 mm fan to one side, blowing across all driver chips.
  • Upgrade fan if desired (a 60 mm fan will fit).
  • Current best practice recommends not installing heat sinks on these chips.

• Verify correct extrusion direction
  • Some printers shipped with a mirrored extruder mount piece (printed). This causes the extruder to run "backwards" since the motor is mounted on the other side.
  • The simplest fix is to remove, flip, and reinstall the 4-wire connector on the RAMPS board (E0?).
  • This may also be corrected in the firmware.
  • Note that if a new, correct extruder mount is printed, the direction will need to be re-reversed.

Helpful Additional Steps

• Address X-endstop electrical noise issue
  • Re-route X-endstop wiring such that it does not run next to any stepper motor wiring
  • Alternatively, add a 10-100nF ceramic capacitor on the RAMPS side of the wiring (this may be jammed into the connector, which would not require soldering)
  • Alternatively, add a 4700-ohm resistor to the x-endstop wiring (which side?). Some owners have made cable extensions with a resistor, eliminating the need to cut stock wiring.
  • Alternatively, re-wire X-endstop and/or stepper motor wires using shielded, twisted cable.
  • Alternatively, unplug the X-endstop switch at the RAMPS board and ensure that no homing process is inserted into the G-code when printing.
  • Note most of these may be combined.

• Verify functionality of the SD card slot
  • Some SD card readers on the LCD panel have cold solder joints. Re-solder as needed.
  • There is a small switch (leaf spring style) on the side of the reader that may have been damaged. Check for misaligned parts, adjust with a pin or other small tool.