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Eventorbot! Open source 3D printer.

The Mission and challenge behind Eventorbot, was to build a rigid, low cost 3d printer. Using less parts, easy to assemble, and is capable to self replicate most of its parts. It is 100% open source project, and all plans are available for anyone interested. Since 80% of the Eventorbots parts are printable. Once you build your first machine, you can make it even more affordable for friends, family, or the community. With the single solid steel frame, it eliminates 40% of parts and cost that other 3d printers uses for a housing and structure. Making it easier and more affordable for anyone to own a 3d Printer ("Lets just start printing our own stuff").

The unit is supposed to resemble a robotic arm with hydraulic tubes. It was designed for prints to be less affected by vibrations. With the 1 solid frame, any vibrations of any axis will cause the other axis to move with it. For example: If the X axis causes a slight vibration/1mm movement to the right, the Z and Y axis will also move that 1mm to the right. This will result in a better print as everything will remain squared.

For more images and updates like our Facebook page


  • Printed Parts: 37
  • Non-Printed Parts: 2.5" square steel frame (16 gauge/1.5mm/.0598" thick, cost: less then $20.00)
  • Printing Size: 152 x 152 x 152 (mm)
  • Material Cost: $300-$500 (DIY)
  • Costs: $799 (assembled)
  • Precision: .1mm-.5mm nozzle



Direct download v1.0 Plans: File:Blue print.skp

Eventorbot reprap 1.jpg

Video clips

360 Degree Rotating View of an Eventorbot

One of Eventorbots first ever test prints

Assembly Tutorials

1st tutorial, Metal frame

Assembly of Eventorbot. X axis tutorial part 1

Assembly of Eventorbot. X axis tutorial part 2

Assembly of Eventorbot. Z axis tutorial part 3

Assembly of Eventorbot. Z axis tutorial part 4

Assembly of Eventorbot. Extruder tutorial part 5

Assembly of Eventorbot. Y axis tutorial part 6

Assembly of Eventorbot. Y axis tutorial part 7

Assembly of Eventorbot. Y axis tutorial part 8

Frame Construction

Unlike other 3D printers the Eventorbots frame needs welding. All of the metal components can be produced from 4' long, 2 1/2" metal square tube

Engineering Drawings

The plans for the one piece metal frame

Frame v1,2 Large.jpg

Access Hole

After you have finished the frame and have welded the corners together, you will also have to cut a 2.5" x 2.5" square on top of the frame. This will allow for the insertion of components into the frame. The optional corner caps will cover this hole if used.

Last frame cut display medium.jpg

Parts list

Required quantities are shown in brackets at the beginning of each line


  • (1) 4' long, 2 1/2" metal square tube Diagram
  • (1) Geared stepper motor for extruder. (model: PG35L-048)
  • (12) 8mm linear bearings, model: LM8UU. Pic
  • (4) 8mm ball bearing, model: 608Z. Pic
  • (1) 9 1/2" long 5/16 threaded rod (for Z axis). Note: Most likely you will have some leftover after your 9 1/2" cut, use that piece to cut a 13mm long piece for this
  • (6) 10.5" long 8mm rod. Pic
  • (1) Coupler 5mm to 8mm. Pic
  • (1) Set of printed plastic parts (stl files listed on thingiverse.com)
  • (optional) 1 set of printed decorative end caps (stl files listed on thingiverse.com)
  • (1) Set of screws. List
  • (1) Sanguinololu 1.3a mother board with ramps. Ramps to be compatible to steppers. Pic
  • (1) MK7 drive gear (gear to drive the filament)Pic
  • (1) 4 foot of XL timing belt. PDF
  • (4) Push button momentary end stop switches. Pic
  • (1) Bed. Aluminum or pexi-glass 8.5" x 11", ~1/8" thick Diagram
  • (4) Springs for bed
  • (8) Rubber feet (bore holes need to be able to allow 10-32 screws) Pic
  • (1) Roll of 1/4" black poly tubing. Cut to: (1)14" for hothead wires, (1)20" for filament feeder, (1)12" for bed to mother board tray connection Pic
  • (6) Air pneumatic tube 6mm push in connector fittings. (Total Size 21mm x 12mm/ 0.82" x 0.47"(L*W) Thread Diameter 9mm/ 0.354) Pic
  • (1) 5.5 mm x 2.1mm DC power jack socket female panel mount connector Pic
  • (1) Laptop charger 12 volt DC at least 5 amp (13 amp is using hotbed) Pic

Printable plastic parts

Optional Decorative caps

Locations for screws

File: "Hardware.skp" shows the locations of all the screws. Please use the free google sketchup software, to zoom and view in 3D. http://www.thingiverse.com/download:86011


Dual Extrusion

Thanks to one of the Kickstarter backers: Kyle Kronyak. A PCB has been created to allow for dual extrusion called SLUM (Sanguinololu Upgrade Module).

Either Kyle or I will have it available to purchase assembled:


Since the lauch of the project a forum has been set up, for help and more information:


Eventorbots siblings

Richard Taylor

Very nice alterations.

  • Add printed geared extruder to take a NEMA17 stepper.
  • Add fan to bottom end cap.
  • Make a hot end mount with aluminium L section and printed parts (for J-Head).
  • Use $2 plastic shelf mounts from IKEA for feet! (Great idea!)

View images

Download blue print