GUS Simpson assembly
Introduction | Bill of materials | Assembly | Electronics and calibration
Contents
Base
Parts Needed: Basalt Bed Top Plate Bottom Plate Heated Bed 3 Shoulders 3 Plastic Washers 3 M8x100 Screws 3 M8 Nuts (or M8 Nylock Nuts) 6 M8 Washers 12 608 Bearings
Instructions:
- Place 4(four) 608 bearings into each of the Shoulders. These bearings should slide right in if your parts have printed accurately. If they don't slide in easily, these can be carefully tapped in with a rubber mallet. If they still not fitting you should not force the bearings into place. Try heating up the parts in the oven on the lowest temperature and attempt to insert the bearings.
- Slide one Plastic washer onto each of the the M8x100 bolts and insert the bolt/washer sub assemblies into the holes in the corners of the bed.
- Place the heated bed (not illustrated) on the top plate, making sure that it fits flat in place without any bumps. Guide the wires for the heated bed through the hole in the top plate(not pictured).
- Now carefully slide the top plate up the bolts that are threaded through the basalt bed, aligning the bolts by hand to fit the holes. You should be able to get the basalt bed, heated bed and top plate to stack with no gaps. If you ended up with gaps check to make sure that the heated bed is in place correctly and that it is flat against the top plate.
- Slide an M8 washer onto each of the bolts.
- Slide shoulders onto the bolts.
- Slide an M8 washer onto each of the bolts.
- Slide the Bottom Plate onto the bolts and attach a M8 Nut (or Nylock Nut) ontoto each bolt. The Shoulders should move freely, so don't tighten the base assembly too much.
Hub
- Insert 608 and 6702 bearings in each hub part (Hub bottom, hub center, hub top).
- Screw hub screw into the hub bottom.
- Slide hub center, hub washer, hub top on the crew in this order.
- Screw lock nut on the screw, ring on it should face down.
- Screw bowden nut on the top.
- Push the hotend into the hub bottom and fix it with M3 bolts and nuts.
Arms
Before you start assembling arms you should carefully check all the corners of the gears and edges of the holes near the string to be smothe with no sharp pieces of plastic. It is recommended to sand all the inner corners.
- Insert 608 bearings on the arms.
- Start by assembling motor arm:
- Insert 2 M8 nuts into the slots inside the arm.
- Screw M8x60 bolts inside and make shire there is no gap between smoothe part of the bolt and nut.
- Fix these bolts with M8 nylock nuts from the other side. Do not tighten too much, you can break the plastic.
- Screw the spring to the back with M3x16 bolt, it should thread well into the plastic.
- Install the tuning peg, make shure it can be turned.
- Screw NEMA 17 motor on the arm, do not install pulley just yet.
- Assemble the slave arm by inserting M8 nuts screwing two M8x60 bolts just like you did with motor arm.
- Insert two M3 nuts in each pulley.
- Just barely slide the pulleys on the tip of the motor's shafts
- Tie a string to the spring and string the arms using this illustration
- Cut the string and tie it to the tuner, do not tighten it just yet.
- Push the pulley on the shaft untill holes on the motor arm match the holes on pulley and thread 2 M3 screws into the pulleys in order to fix them solid.
- Tighten the tuner so the hand will stay together.
Finishing
- Insert M8x55 bolts in places on the hub and motor arms.
- Slide a M8 washer on each bolt.
- Join the parts so the motor arms are on top.
- Slide a washer on each bolt again and fix them with M8 nylock nuts.
- Screw essentric stops and limit switches on the arms using M3 and M2 bolts.
- Unscrew the bowden nut from hub, insert a bowden tube through the hole on the nut.
- Screw two M4 nuts on the ends of bowden tube and drill the tume with 2mm drill from the ends.
- Place a nut into the slot on the hub screw and fix it with bowden nut.
- Slide the second nut in the extruder.
Filament Drive
This is yet to be done.
