This page is intended to collect Ormerod owner's customisations and improvements, to make them easy to find.
Below is a suggested layout, splitting improvements into sections, and how to format this.
- 1 X-axis
- 2 Y axis
- 2.1 belt clamping and tension adjusters
- 2.2 Improvements to Y carriage and heated bed assembly
- 3 Z axis
- 4 Extruder
- 5 Hot end
- 6 Electronics
- 7 Duet / Electronics
- 8 ABS printing
Some owners have had problems with the hot end 'drooping', and find that the supplied nozzle mount doesn't locate the hot end adequately. You may be able to rectify this by adjusting the x-carriage idler bearing in its slot. If the nozzle-mount is melting, because the mounting screws are getting hot, check your cooling system is working correctly; the screws should not get that hot.
Simon's longer nozzle-mount
johneato's angled version
Davek0974 aluminium version
Long thread on this subject: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,329269
Superglue the joint on the acrylic parts
belt clamping and tension adjusters
iamburny's Y-axis belt clamp
Spacers to fit under iamburney's Y-axis belt clamp, to adjust belt tension
Simple Y- axis belt clamp using bolts
Improvements to Y carriage and heated bed assembly
The original bed is supported on a 3mm piece of MDF, which can warp, and twist the bed, as well as being non-adjustable. Below are some solutions.
From Ian, RepRapPro tech support
I print on a standard bed, but have long screws in the 2 points at the back (along the Y extrusion) and one at the front, between the bed terminals, so it's mounted on 3 points. The screws are 20mm cap screws, that go down through the aluminium heat spreader, then bed PCB, then have an M3 washer and M3 nyloc nut, holding the aluminium and PCB. An M3 nyloc nut is threaded on lower down, and acts as a height adjuster. The bed sits on these nylocs on the MDF. Then it goes through the MDF, and a plain M3 nut on the back, to lock the bed in place. The outer two corners just have a M3x8mm cap screw though the heat spreader and PCB, with an M3 nyloc on the back, which doesn't touch the MDF below. I have the cardboard taped to the back of the PCB, as per the instructions. This means the outer two corners are not affected by the MDF, and I have manual adjustment over the bed plane.
I advise people who contact me with bed problems to do this, because mostly it's the two unsupported corners of the MDF that cause the problems if the MDF warps. There is scope for the back corners along the Y axis extrusion to droop a bit too, but nowhere near as much as the front corners. You can even cut the front two corners off the MDF if you want, leaving the MDF as a 'T' shape. The aluminium and glass keep the bed flat, and is plenty strong enough to support printing without deflection. The three-point mounting means there is nothing to twist the print surface.
Instructions have been updated with the above, also showing how to fit the picture frame style 'Swiss' clips. See: https://reprappro.com/documentation/ormerod/heated-bed-assembly/#Alternative_build_8211_for_8216Swiss8217_clips_andor_adjustable_bed and https://reprappro.com/documentation/ormerod/heated-bed-wiring/#Fit_the_heated_bed
Ormerod168's bed hack (no extra parts)
Converts to 3-point mounting, using the aluminium heatspreader as the base: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,308648
zombiepantslol's heated bed replacement
Because I wanted to eliminate all risks of sagging, I decided to design my own low-cost bed assembly (image). This construction requires four LM12UU bearings instead of three, so you'll likely have to get an extra one before you can start assembling. In addition, the heat spreader must be modified by drilling an extra hole for the bed thermistor.
In order to build this replacement construction, you will need at least 0.5m of 11.5mm x 11.5mm x 1.5mm alu pipe, four standard cable ties and some M3 screws (M3x20, M3x25, M3x30), washers and nuts. First, cut down the alu profile into four parts, the first two parts being 99mm long and the other ones 150mm. As the next step, you will have to drill holes into these pieces. Follow this drawing to do so - the measurements show all distances in mm, but it's probably easier to round these values.
Once this is done, print all parts from my repository - but make sure you print the rear mounts with support material, otherwise you'll have a hard time fitting these parts into the alu parts. When done, fit all parts as seen in the image above, and put that assembly on the bottom of the alu heat spreader (make sure you put it on the correct side, otherwise the bed connectors won't fit any more!). Center the whole construction on the heat spreader and drill holes through the alu parts, but make sure everything stays in place. After doing so, you can use M3 screws to lock this construction to the heat spreader. Next, put that extra LM12UU bearing on the front Y rod and put your new bed assembly on top of the linear bearings - in case the front parts don't fit right away, loosen these screws again and adjust the front mounts before tightening them once more. When you're done, use cable ties to tie the printed parts to the bearings - just make sure the printed parts grab into the bearings' notches first.
It's a good idea to use M3x25 screws and a few nyloc nuts to mount the heated bed PCB on top of the alu heat spreader, so you can fine-tune the bed level in order to get rid of bed compensation completely. This should also reduce wear on the Z rod tremendously.
carbon bed reinforcement to the existing mdf bed
Update Ormerod 1 y-axis to Ormerod 2 version
jstck's extended version
iamburny's Herringbone Z gears
= zombiepantslol's version for use with M4x12 cylinder head screws
Mr.Burns's Extruder drive block
PTFE tube goes further into body, tab to support retaining tongue.
MasonStonehenge/VortyZA's Spring-loaded extruder
Adjustable spring pressure, same force of grip with varying filament diameter yet will not crush the filament as bearing will bottom out on the stepper, easy to service and clean.
iamburny's Herringbone extruder gears
Fan deflector to eliminate backwash
There are various designs. Here is one http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,287558,291659#msg-291659. Here https://github.com/dc42/OrmerodSensorBoard/blob/master/OtherPrintedPartsForOrmerod/FanDeflector.stl is a remix of that design, which attaches to the hot end using screws, and is thinner so that it clears the Duet enclosure if that enclosure is pushed all the way to the end of the y-extrusion.
Alternative Hot end cooling ducts
Updating to RRP 4-wire modulated proximity probe
See http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,411040 for instructions to update from the Ormerod 1 3-wire probe to a RepRapPro 4-wire modulated proximity probe, as supplied with the Ormerod 2, and available separately.
4-wire proximity probe
See http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,290720,297728#msg-297728 for how to hack the original 3-wire IR sensor to add modulation.
DC42's hot end board incorporating differential IR proximity probe, lighting, and hot end fan control
This is a small electronic board mounted on the hot end. Its primary purpose is to replace the proximity sensor. The new sensor uses two modulated beams of infrared light and compares their intensities using an on-board microcontroller. It does not need white targets and works with almost any build surface. It also replaces the floating 6-pin hot end connector by Molex connectors on the board. Other functions include illumination of the area under the print head, thermostatic control of the hot end fan, an LED to indicate when the hot end is powered, and an LED to indicate when the sensor trigger height has been reached.
See http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,388208 for a recent thread about the board, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/ormerod-hot-end-board-v2/ for photos and assembly instructions, and https://github.com/dc42/OrmerodSensorBoard for the design files.
Pointy's ribbon cable shroud
Duet / Electronics
Try DC42's branch for many improvements and cutting edge stuff. Should be regarded as experimental, and is not supported/tested by RepRapPro. Use at own risk. However, many of DC42's changes have and are being added to the 'official' firmware.
iamburny's web interface
Check for compatibility with the firmware you are using.
Instead of the ATX power supply, you can use a 12V 300W LED power supply, readily available on eBay for about GBP20. These power supplies allow you to increase the voltage a little, which is great for ABS printing because it heats the bed faster. This end cover https://github.com/dc42/OrmerodSensorBoard/blob/master/OtherPrintedPartsForOrmerod/PSU.stl covers the wiring and accommodates a push-fit fused mains inlet, indicator neon, and 20A outlet connector - all of which are available from Maplin's as well as the usual component distributors.
appjaws1's deeper duet enclosure
Pointy's ribbon cable shroud
Ludo91`s easy ABS printing method
Still experimental due to very high hot end temperatures involved and need for testing with different filaments, it is aimed at printing quality ABS parts with zero modification to printer or PSU nor covering except for a new extruder support and a piece of paper on the fan. Slic3r setup file, modified extruder support and ongoing development of the method can be found here http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,382946,382946#msg-382946 .