This page is intended to collect Ormerod owner's customisations and improvements, to make it easy to find.
Below is a suggested layout, splitting improvements into sections, and how to format this.
- 1 X-axis
- 2 Y axis
- 3 Z axis
Some owners have had problems with the hot end 'drooping', and find that the supplied nozzle mount doesn't locate the hot end adequately. You may be able to rectify this by adjusting the x-carriage idler bearing in its slot. If the nozzle-mount is melting, because the mounting screws are getting hot, check your cooling system is working correctly; the screws should not get that hot.
Simon's longer nozzle-mount
johneato's angled version
belt clamping and tension adjusters
iamburny's Y-axis belt clamp
Spacers to fit under iamburney's Y-axis belt clamp, to adjust belt tension
Alternative designs to replace MDF
I print on a standard bed, but have long screws in the 2 points at the back (along the Y extrusion) and one at the front, between the bed terminals, so it's mounted on 3 points. The screws are 25mm cap screws, that go down through the aluminium heat spreader, then bed PCB, then have an M3 washer and M3 nyloc nut. A nyloc nut is threaded on lower down, and acts as a height adjuster. Then it goes through the MDF, and a plain M3 nut on the back, to lock the it in place. The outer corners just have a short cap screw though the heat spreader and PCB, with an M3 nyloc on the back, which doesn't touch the MDF below. I have the cardboard taped to the back of the PCB, as per the instructions. This means the outer two corners don't support the bed, and I have adjustment over the bed plane. I advise people who contact me with bed problems to do this, because mostly it's the two unsupported corners of the MDF that cause the problems if the MDF warps. There is scope for the back two corners to droop a bit, but nowhere near as much as the front corners. You can even cut the front two corners off the MDF if you want, leaving the MDF as a 'T' shape.