PrintrbotMetalSimpleDaughterboardtoControllerCable

From RepRap
Revision as of 10:58, 9 October 2019 by Jamesdanielv (talk | contribs)
Jump to: navigation, search

This page is for those that have printrbot boards g2 and need help wiring to other electronics from ramps to printrbot f6 boards.

-- read special notes section -- if not using f5 or f6 boards.

*** this is a draft page until this comment removed, it is possible during draft phase to wire incorrectly and blow board. check everything, proceed with caution. for example the limit switch order of reprap boards vs printrbot will have pins shorting to either vcc or gnd. i think printrbot did this to remove a layer in board and save costs.  my goal with this cable project is to reduce the chance of wiring error and reduce technical time of replacing hardware to around 1hr per machine, or less***

contents.....

[why]

[who invented the machine used]

[goal is to make a cable to interface machine]

[why this page]

[what is my solution?]

[different end connectors and names of parts needed, including printable ones]

[how to start process of designing replacement cable]

[special notes]

-- updates-- shows files and updates

--parts downloads-- this is area that has printable connectors.


instructions to put together - this is printable instructions


[this is a draft page until this is removed] this is here until spelling and objective views makes it sense.

[why]

the company is now no longer in service, and i am unable to find any support anywhere else that truly supports them. 

with 26 pins and several sub connectors it requires a lot of time to repair and replace printrbot boards with standard reprap, so boards that have been updated with better support, and allow less print errors can be used.

I want to reduce the level of technical knowledge to replace boards. with labeled connectors that fit only 1 way, it reduces the time and decreases chances of error for wiring. each decision in wiring by default has a 20% chance of error, but every time it is verified it reduces error by a factor, the time it takes to recheck a schematic, and to verify pins with a voltmeter is a lot longer than simply just looking at the pin, and its label and its directional attachment (some pins will only go in one way, some pins it does not matter direction.


[who invented the machine used]

i want to personally thank Brook Drumm for his contribution to reprap, and for his work in 3d printing. it is a hard business with extremely dynamic changes.

[goal is to make a cable to interface machine]

i plan on making a cable that interfaces the beautifully constructed mechanics of the printrbot metal pro and the designed extruder board to the more standard f5 and f6 electronics or even any ramps or other electronics with ease and less frustration.


[why this page]

I am helping out at a maker space to make myself useful. this maker space is relying on several printrbot simple metal pro's that are in need of maintenance. these boards use advanced controllers, that in theory are better than 8 bit Reprap are no longer supported and many modern features that people use and or understand are not implemented, and knowledge of these g2 boards seems to be fading. for reasons of available knowledge experience, and the ability to switch boards out for future proofing. these printers are built to last mechanically, even though in my opinion electrically there is some work.


[what is my solution?]

a cable connector to the daughter board of printerbot metal simple pro, that one side plugs into the extruder daughter board and the electronics it houses, and the other end having labeled pins, and correct connectors to hook up to standard reprap electronics. the connectors ideally will be labelled and pinned with the correct type of connectors to reduce errors during hookup. the idea is to make board replacement faster, and allow an affordable and timely transition over to reprap electronics.


[how to start process of designing replacement cable]

may 29.2019 i found conflicting information on the web and no support info from printrbot.com as of the time of this writing the web sight has no documentation. i used a volt meter available to me by the maker space to check pin connections when device was disconnected and off. i will need to do a digital drawing of pin out but for now i have this image that i hope is helpful to people that have the printrbot simple metal pro

may 29,2019 8:30pm found a web page with some design specs for metal pro here https://www.brookdrumm.com/

this information below is my draft drawing. not 100% tested yet.


If cable is damaged and needs to be replaced:

here is the 24 pin connector. a 26 pin 3d printed header plug as shown here will need to go over 24 pin plastic, or 24 pin plastic will need to be removed

DaughterboardConnectors.JPG



FEMALE CONNECTOR END FROM CABLE ON DAUGHTER BOARD Drawing2revised.png



PrintrbotSimpleMEtalPRoByJamesVilleneuveIdeaforcable.png


here is an image of current prototype. it plugs into the 26 pin cable that goes to daughterboard on extruder. the individual free pins will be replaced with labeled pins and connectors to the ones that are typically available for general reprap electronics. having the proper end connectors should reduce error rate and make it easy to change out board, but leave the daughter board in. allowing only the main board to be replaced.

PrintrbotCableDrawingexample.png


i will attempt to make pins ends 3d printable and provide files for them, and make casings that could be 3d printed.

it is too much work to solder connections, so us bare pressure pin connectors,

if using ones with plastic outer sleeves they need to be removed. push down on the pins,

and glue them into place. in image it is a mold made for pvc glue. i would assume later

versions to just use resin. i will also post the mold here used when it works completely.


[different end connectors and names of parts needed, including printable ones]

This cable connector also requires molex connectors of different types and styles to avoid error when plugging parts in. some of these wires, will have a dummy lead, because of a shared common gnd.

here is a list of connector types needed, and part names for them

1 male idc DC 26-pin, 26 Conductors 2.54mm connector

2 50 ohm reistors for y homing sensor. this is a safety feature and can prevent damage on incorrect wiring direction. look at ramps schematic and f5 f6 schematic example included below.

4 pin connector for stepper e axis (kk molex 0.100" (2.54mm) Pitch Free Hanging Connector, Receptacle Housings)

4 pin connector for stepper y axis (kk molex 0.100" (2.54mm) Pitch Free Hanging Connector, Receptacle Housings)

2 pint fan connector ->

2 pin led connector ->

2 pin thermistor connector ->

2 pin fan connector

3 pin probe connector (may go down to 2, because of common gnd)

3 pin y axis home switch (needs resistors on both leads of 50 ohms built into wire) (needs 3pin kk molex 0.100" (2.54mm) Pitch Free Hanging Connector, Receptacle Housings)

2 pin heater connector

2 pins blower fan pins

  • all pins should have labeling.

parts vendors links digikey https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/kk-series/25872

other connector housings https://www.pololu.com/

[special notes] if not using an f5 or f6 board the end stop wiring could be different, so i will include a 50 ohm resistor in my final design to prevent damage while troubleshooting.

this is why i will leave a connector on end stops that has 2 wires, but not a 3 pin connector. if 50 ohm resistor is not included and it is wired up, a board could short out otherwise. 50ohm resistor is added for safety.

here are pinouts of each homing pins


printrbot f5 and f6 boards


Printrbotschematicshoming.png

ramps shield boards

Rampsshieldhomingpins.png


[for probe]

this needs to be wired properly to avoid tool head crash, and to avoid probe damage. from my understanding so far the wiring is this:

[blue] to signal z axis pin

[black] to gnd pin

[red] to pos 5v pin


--updates ----

here are some prototype ends for cable attachment, the idea is to insert male to female connectors. male ends on the 26 pin ide connector side, and female pins to connectors on the other end. the new ide, cable and the pin assembly helpd with issues relating to cable damage and upgrading board to another reprap version with standard connectors.

Also female connector and male connector pins will be locked in place as design includes clamping mechanisms. the base of the larger 3d print is for the ide cable to go in. it only fits in one direction.

PrototypePrintable 26pin Directional.jpg


PrototypePrintable pins someDirectional.jpg

here is current kit design: (more than likely you would acquire parts and print them on your own or have a friend do for you.

Printrbotupgradekitwithprintableparts.png

Printrbotupgradekitwithprintablepartsside.jpg

IMG 7954.JPG

the 26 pin ide connector that is printable, the final version has 26 letters on in A-Z representing the pin number. a corresponding label will be on each sub pin assembly to reduce errors of hook up, also the sub connectors from 2-4 pin also have some that are directional. all will also be labeled with what they are going too. for example heater will have HEAT, thermistor will have THERM, and fan will have FAN1, FAN2 the directional connectors will be wired to accurately hook up to reprap. also the limit switch connectors will have resistors of 100ohm on both connectors because printrbot boards, and reprap have a different pin out to limit switches.


parts downloads

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3831150