Prusa i3 Rework Bill of materials/pt
English • العربية • български • català • čeština • Deutsch • Ελληνικά • español • فارسی • français • hrvatski • magyar • italiano • română • 日本語 • 한국어 • lietuvių • Nederlands • norsk • polski • português • русский • Türkçe • українська • 中文(中国大陆) • 中文(台灣) • עברית • azərbaycanca • |
Template:Prusa i3 Rework Sommaire PT
Contents
Base de dados com a Lista dos Materiais
Partes Impressas
Extrusor
Varões roscados e lisos
- 2x Varão liso Ø8x320 mm
- 2x Varão liso Ø8x350 mm
- 2x Varão liso Ø8x370 mm
- 2x Varão roscado M5x300 mm
- 4x Varão roscado M10x210 mm
- 2x Varão roscado M10x380 mm
Partes Mecânicas
Heated bed - Mesa Aquecida
Electrónica
Parafusos, roscas, anilhas
If using the SainSmart endstops then you will need 2 M3 flat head screws per endstop that uses the bottom 2 holes to attach it (example the X-Idler) as the SainSmart endstops has a bad design flaw that gives absolutely zero clearance for the two lower screws as the wiring harness is too close to the pcb and over laps some of the 2 bottom open holes (wiring harness points downward at a 90 degree angle). With these you can bend up the wiring harness, ever so slightly and be extremely cautious and gentle, to get the flat head M3 screw heads to go under the harness. Once they are under the harness proceed to attach with the nuts but remember the heads MUST come into the holes from the side with the wiring harness due to the mentioned lack of any clearance.
If you are having a hard time finding the M3x60mm screws you can use 1/8 inch toggle bolts http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-8-in-x-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Toggle-Bolt-with-Mushroom-Head-Phillips-Drive-Screw-4-Pieces-00444/202187084 and remove the screw in piece from the toggle side (easily comes out) and it fits perfectly on the extruder. Use springs and a washer and you are set though I did use a Dremel to remove the threads for 1/2 of the bolt.
Estrutura de Alumínio
- 1x Single frame, estrutura vertical
- 1x Heated bed, base da mesa de impressão