All public logs
Combined display of all available logs of RepRap. You can narrow down the view by selecting a log type, the username (case-sensitive), or the affected page (also case-sensitive).
(newest | oldest) View (newer 20 | older 20) (20 | 50 | 100 | 250 | 500)- 18:01, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Parameterized pipe-support.png (RepRap Morgan pie-support redesigned to allow different pipe-diameters.)
- 17:24, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Etched and ready.JPG ('''Toner Transfer Method/Building my own Heatbed''' Now the board is etched in iron(III)chloride and the toner was removed with acetone. Resistance measured: 2.1 Ohm)
- 08:49, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:My etch laboratory.JPG (Two cases that fit in each other are the best way to keep the garage clean. because using iron(III)chloride can get quite dirty sometimes. There's an old 150W glas-heater for aquariums and a cheap air-pump for the bubbles. I'm working on a new airstone-)
- 08:33, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Lacquer pens.JPG ('''Toner Transfer Method/Building my own Heatbed''' This pens work fine to repair breaches in the layout.)
- 07:45, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded a new version of File:All breaches fixed.JPG
- 07:43, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:All breaches fixed.JPG ('''Toner Transfer Method/Building my own Heatbed''' All breaches are fixed with a fine lacquer pen (0.8mm) and the contacts between the both parts of the layout are connected with the same pen. Errors while painting on the layout can be fixed by scratchi)
- 07:39, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Very fine details.JPG ('''Toner Transfer Method/Building my own Heatbed''' Using the very fine sandpaper (1200) and avoiding to iron the paper directly (only with paper towels a buffer) allows very fine details and very sharp lines.)
- 07:37, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Paper removed completely.JPG ('''Toner Transfer Method/Building my own Heatbed''' Now here all the paper has been removed with latex gloves on. The print looks very good, regarding that a layout with this quantity and density of traces is very difficult to do with the toner transfer )
- 07:33, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Paper removed a good one.JPG ('''Toner Transfer Method/Building my own Heatbed''' This time there are only a few breaches in the print, that later can be fixed easily.)
- 07:31, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Removing paper with latex gloves.JPG ('''Toner Transfer Method/Building my own Heatbed''' Latex gloves are perfect to remove the paper. You need less pressure and therefore the print stays inviolate.)
- 07:25, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Not enough ironing.JPG (This happens, when you didn't iron enough and/or not hot enough. This sample is to bad to be fixed with paint.)
- 07:19, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Remove the paper.JPG (The paper can be removed with water. But this try was no success, because there are to much faults, even on the small part uncovered yet.)
- 07:16, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Ironing part2.JPG (Always use paper towels between the layout and the iron to avoid smearing of fine details of the print and to get the most sharpest lines possible. Pressure is good and needed anywhere over the layout. The iron should be as hot as possible. That gives th)
- 07:12, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Ironing the layout.JPG (The layout is printed on a catalog page. The paper should be very smooth with no visible or tactile structure and it should be waxed. The iron (on highest temperature possible; for linnen) melts the toner, that then gets in close contact to the copper. )
- 07:03, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Sand the copper.JPG (The surface needs to be slightly rough for the toner to grip on the copper. But the surface has to be very smooth likewise. So I use a very fine sandpaper (1200 parts per millimeter; 1000 will do as well). After sanding the surface still shines, but has s)
- 06:48, 30 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Clean the board.JPG (For the toner transfer method, anything should be free of grease. I therefore use to clean the copper with Isopronaol. You should buy the alcohol as a liquid in a canister, while the spray cans with Isopropanol are very expensive. 5 Liter (app. 1,32 galon)
- 16:02, 29 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Layout Heatbed RK1 parts c d.svg (Descendant of the MK2a-Heatbed (Part 2). Optimized for printing with a A4-Laser printer for use with the toner transfer method. Both parts ironed next together on copper, only few bridges have to be closed with etch resistant lacquer.)
- 16:02, 29 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Layout Heatbed RK1 parts a b.svg (Descendant of the MK2a-Heatbed (Part 1). Optimized for printing with a A4-Laser printer for use with the toner transfer method. Both parts ironed next together on copper, only few bridges have to be closed with etch resistant lacquer.)
- 16:48, 25 June 2013 RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) uploaded File:Layout Heatbed MK2a.svg (I've drawn the MK2a heatbed as an SVG-file (Inkscape), so anyone can create their own heatbed with the toner transfer method, without the need to use a PCB-layout-software. Most regular Laserprinters don't support a printing range of 214mm x 214mm. You c)
- 16:04, 25 June 2013 User account RobertKuhlmann (talk | contribs) was created
