The incomplete RepRap Prusa Mendel beginner's guide

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The incomplete REPRAP beginner's guide is an attempt to gather in one document all the information about REPAP MENDEL PRUSA, that is available in the internet.

The reason of doing it, is that it is sometimes more practical to have some basic information gathered in one place, than trying to get fast and accurate answers, for issues that a newbie cannot even understand and express.

Mostly this work is a ‘copy&paste’ of sites' critical info, links with usefull material, and some of my experience.

Although it is focused on the Mendel Prusa model, I hope it may be useful for builders of other models. 

Under no circumstances this document can be considered as complete.

By COS_ (Konstantinos Tziampazis). You can download this document (but rather old)here:https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B6agwEC__Vy7MDFiMjEwNDktMzM3NS00N2ZmLTg3NDUtM2JlZTc4OGE1Y2U3&hl=el

CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION

What is 3D printing?

…“3D printing is a form of additive manufacturing technology where a three dimensional object is created by laying down successive layers of material. 3D printers are generally faster, more affordable and easier to use than other additive manufacturing technologies. 3D printers offer product developers the ability to print parts and assemblies made of several materials with different mechanical and physical properties in a single build process. Advanced 3D printing technologies yield models that can serve as product prototypes.” (https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/3D_printing)

…“A large number of competing technologies are available to do 3D printing. Their main differences are found in the way layers are built to create parts. Some methods use melting or softening material to produce the layers, e.g. selective laser sintering (SLS) and fused deposition modeling (FDM), while others lay liquid materials that are cured with different technologies. In the case of lamination systems, thin layers are cut to shape and joined together.” (https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/3D_printing)

Reprap Mendel prusa is an FDM 3d printer. Here are some videos on how FDM works. You can find many more on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFcWFB0FlLo&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVp92Nx7XMw&feature=related

…“Industrial 3D printers are made by companies such as Objet Geometries, Stratasys, 3DSystems and Z-corp. The average price of such a printer is €10,000 or more.” (https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/3D_printing)

I found these videos of commercial 3d printers:

Object260 connex http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbRlDBScDz4

Zcorp 3D Printer 650 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QP73uTJApw

Stratasys http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itRcInOwbyM

What is reprap? … “RepRap is a free desktop 3D printer capable of printing plastic objects. Since many parts of RepRap are made from plastic and RepRap can print those parts, RepRap is a self-replicating machine - one that anyone can build given time and materials. It also means that - if you've got a RepRap - you can print lots of useful stuff, and you can print another RepRap for a friend... …RepRap is about making self-replicating machines, and making them freely available for the benefit of everyone……RepRap was the first of the low-cost 3D printers, and the RepRap Project started the open-source 3D printer revolution. It is described in the video on the right.” (http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page)

… “RepRap is short for Replicating Rapid-prototyper. It is the practical self-copying 3D printer introduced in the video on the left - a self-replicating machine. This 3D printer builds the parts up in layers of plastic. This technology already exists, but the cheapest commercial machine would cost you about €30,000. And it isn't even designed so that it can make itself. So what the RepRap team are doing is to develop and to give away the designs for a much cheaper machine with the novel capability of being able to self-copy (material costs are about €350). That way it's accessible to small communities in the developing world as well as individuals in the developed world. Following the principles of the Free Software Movement we are distributing the RepRap machine at no cost to everyone under an open source license (the GNU General Public Licence). So, if you have a RepRap machine, you can use it to make another and give that one to a friend... …The RepRap project became widely known after a large press coverage in March 2005, though the idea goes back to a paper on the web written by Adrian Bowyer on 2 February 2004.” (http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/RepRapWiki:About) 

Adrian Bowyer explains his 3D printer RepRap: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Px-g1NMvLug

There are various reprap models such as: 

NOTE: you must have in mind that choosing a mendel-like model, may be hard to find specific parts when these will/may brake.


Ok, I want one

Well done! Before you make up your mind you need to make some research on the subject. After all you are a newbie …..( since you are reading this).

Before reading further, you must understand that reprap is an open source project that is under development, and requires some technical skills (from soldering to crafting). If you are excited with 3D printing only and NOT with building, I suggest you buy a pre-assembled, commercially sold machine and don’t bother reading the rest of the document concerning building and fine-tuning.

Remember …“it's generally suggested not to buy a full kit because you will have a hard time finding someone to repair the machine once it does break. All 3d printers eventually break. If you INSIST on buying an assembled machine, try:...."(http://ietherpad.com/UaMN2zn4sn)


For assembled-ready machines please read chapter 2.

It is a good idea to read this document BEFORE you even start searching in the internet. This can save you time from unnecessary or misleading information. After reading, you may be more focused on what you want and how you are going to find it.

1st stop is the website of reprap.org. Here, you will find almost anything, although some info may be obsolete, other may be up-to-date.

http://reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page

I suggest you read A LOT. You can use the glossary to familiarise yourself with new terms (http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/Glossary), select one of the ‘how to build’ pages (http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Options) just to get the taste of what awaits you…. Also there is a search engine within the website that you will find very useful, since the tons of info cannot be easily found through page browsing. For example type in the search field: object, extruder etc. I found it quite useful as a dictionary for unknown technical words (i.e. heated bed)

The machine I am going to focus is this : http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/File:Assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg

All the necessary information about building can be found here: http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel_Assembly


2nd stop is irc://irc.freenode.net/#RepRap (for chatzilla) or http://webchat.freenode.net/?channels=reprap a simple browser-based chat interface.

Those with IRC clients, simply select the freenode server, then the #reprap channel.

In irc you will get help right away, by very experienced users. Just introduce yourself and ask your question. In irc, information is up-to-date, although sometimes you may find difficult to explain exactly what is the issue that you are experiencing. This can happen because of language barrier and lack of technical experience. But don’t worry, almost everybody is willing to help.

3rd stop is the reprap forum at http://forums.reprap.org/ Here, your question may have been already answered. Check this thoroughly.


CHAPTER 2

ACQUIRING

You have 3 options:

  1. build one (buy all the parts from different dealers)
  2. buy one complete Mendel (or Mendel-like) kit
  3. buy a fully assembled Mendel

Category 3 usually applies to models of category 2 but the models are sold already assembled. However, I wouldn’t recommend it since they are delicate and heavy for shipping:

“………..

  • Mendel-like Axis and Glider from botmill http://botmill.com/
  • Mendel http://thefutureis3d.com/
  • Skb-Kiparis ltd - Fully assembled 3D printer Gen X with new verticax X axis and new generation of electronics!
  • ac123dc -stampanti reprap 3d in kit ,-- RepRap Prusa assembled and tested Italy based
  • Greg Frost Mendel - Heated Bed, Machined Pulleys, Lm8uu Linear Bearings, removable glass bed, hinged accessible wades, all metal hotend.
  • 3dStuffmaker cheap Kits and fully assembled/tested units and plastics. Shipping world-wide. Launch Sep/Oct 2011
  • Mendbot Shop fully built calibrated reprap 3d printer, Metric Prusa, SAE Prusa, Mendel, Wade Extruder, almost complete kits, fully built plastruders.”

(http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Buyers_Guide)

Category 2 is the playfield for the average amateur who does not know much about electronics, crafting, soldering, engineering, programming, or does not have easy access to all the parts needed to build a machine. It is for those who have fun building plastic kit models, or for those who have some experience with tools such as screwdrivers, multimeters, dremel, solders, etc. It is for the majority (like me) who want to build a printer fast and easy.

The recipe is easy: the kit comes in a big and heavy box, you spend some time building it (lot of fun for model kit builders), you spend some time calibrating it, you spend the rest of your time printing and sharing our knowledge in #reprap.

“………Full Kits

  • BotMill - Full 3D printer kits with many free extras. Variety of colors, blue, rep, yellow, green, white, black +more!
  • Skb-Kiparis ltd - Full kit of 3D printer Gen X with new verticax X axis and new generation of electronics!
  • Kent's Strapper - risorsa italiana di stampanti reprap 3d in kit ,in versioni gia assemblate e pronte alla stampa,e kit separati di elettronica, plastica,meccanica ed estrusori
  • eMAKER Huxley - Full kits available to pre-order on indiegogo campaign. Only a few days left and limited stocks.
  • MakerGear - has been providing providing kits and accessories to the Reprap community since 2009. We offer high quality Prusa Mendel kits with all stainless steel fasteners, stainless threaded rod, precision ground stainless smooth rod, precision self-aligning bearings, heated bed PCB, high-quality printed ABS parts, RAMPS electronics, the field-tested and botter-approved MakerGear hot-end and more. 1000s of botters use gear from MakerGear!
  • Mendel-parts.com - True reprapped printed full kits incl GEN6 electronics.
  • ac123dc - RepRap Prusa assembled and tested Italy based
  • 3dStuffmaker cheap Kits and fully assembled/tested units and plastics. Shipping world-wide. Launch Sep/Oct 2011 …..”

(http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Buyers_Guide)

Category 1 is for the more experienced builders (ex-builders of category 2). Machines build that way cost considerably lower, about 50% less than category 2, but there is always the risk of finding parts with lower quality (like smooth rods that must be straight and very smooth). Nevertheless you have the overall quality control over each part, so you make your choices.

A reprap consists of several different types of parts:

  1. RP parts (repraped parts, that are used to mound the rods that make the frame, mound motors and x-y carriages). These are printed from another reprap
  2. Mechanical parts. Are the smooth rods (to slide the carriages) and threaded rods (to make the frame), nuts, washers, belts, bearings, springs etc.
  3. Electronics parts. The controllers of the motors. All these are connected to a main “controller” that reads the gcode from the computer and translates to motor moves. Today, the most popular electronics are Arduino with pololu shield (or RAMPS, http://reprap.org/wiki/Ramps ), Arduino with Sanguilolou shield (http://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu )
  4. Electrical parts. Like cables, power supply, stepper motors, endstops, etc
  5. Hot-end parts. This is the most tricky part to find/make. More info at http://reprap.org/wiki/DIY_Direct_hot_end
  6. The printer firmware. Sprinter by Kliment is the suggested FW for Ramps machines. It uploads to Adruino via the arduino control software
  7. The software. This includes A) the HOST software that connects the PC with the printer (repsnapper, or preferably Kliment’s pronterface), and B) the application to convert the solid model into a series of gcode instructions that your printer understands (replicatorG, or preferably skeinforge/SFACT-by Action68) 
Spacexula, is trying to make a Step-by-Step cost-related guide

Here is a list of suppliers from the wiki page(prusa buyer's guide):

“……………….RepRapped Parts Kits Community • Kent's Strapper - risorsa italiana di stampanti reprap 3d in kit ,in versioni gia assemblate e pronte alla stampa,e kit separati di elettronica, plastica,meccanica ed estrusori • Support the community by buying printed parts from one of your fellow RepRap developers: Nice People Who Upload Files And Are Quite Keen On Selling You A Set Of Printed Parts. • You can also ask on IRC, or try the RepRap User Groups. • (Plastic Mendel Parts for Sale) RepRap Forum. Webshops • Lots of people sell RepRap parts on Ebay. • 2PrintBeta - Reprapped and casted parts for Mendel, Prusa and Huxley available. • Eckertech.com Printed parts and hobbed bolts. • eMAKERshop - Reprapped parts by reprappers for reprappers. • ac123dc -stampanti reprap 3d in kit ,-- RepRap Prusa assembled and tested Italy based • LulzBot - Prusa Mendel plastic, rods, RAMPS & Sanguinololu electronics, and more. • MakerGear has been providing providing kits and accessories to the Reprap community since 2009. We provide high quality Prusa Mendel and Mosaic kits. We also offer extruders, extruder parts, printed parts, laser cut parts, plastic filament and many other parts and accessories. 1000s of botters are using gear from MakerGear. • Mendel-Parts.com - Reprapped plastics, all kinds of color options. • MixShop International Shipping - Complete Prusa/Original Mendel Hardware Kit, RAMPS Electronics, Motors and more. • Mendbot Shop fully built calibrated reprap 3d printer, Metric Prusa, SAE Prusa, Mendel, Wade Extruder, almost complete kits, fully built plastruders. • Printed-Parts.com Blog about 3d printers and shop with Printed Parts of Mendel Prusa and more soon. • Red Wizard 3D. UK online shop specialising in Prusa Mendel hardware. • RepRap Ltd. This is Adrian Bowyer's family business selling reprapped parts for RepRaps. • RepRap-USA supplies ready-to-use Hotends, Heatbeds, and Gen6 electronics. We offer the trickiest RepRap parts at great prices to customers worldwide. • Thingfarm.org Prusa and Mendel Hardware Kits (UK and Europe) • Thingfarm North America Prusa and Mendel Hardware Kits (USA and Canada) • XYZ Printers Hardware kits, RP parts and electronics for your 3D printer • 3dStuffmaker cheap Kits and fully assembled/tested units and plastics. Shipping world-wide. Launch Sep/Oct 2011 • RepRapBCN - High quality parts in SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) for RepRap. We sell for all Europe, very good prices for Spain. • resco-research A new shop-on-line based in Italy. Hardware, consumables and more very soon. Electrical and mechanical kits and parts • REPRAPBCN - High quality parts in SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) and PLA for RepRap. We sell for all Europe, very good prices for Spain. • Kent's Strapper - Risorsa italiana di stampanti reprap 3d in kit ,in versioni gia assemblate e pronte alla stampa,e kit separati di elettronica, plastica,meccanica ed estrusori • R2C2 electronics -- complete solution, quality and fast electronics, a really new generation of electronics for RepRap 3D printers and others like RapMan. Professional made but also development/hack friendly :-) • 2PrintBeta seller of bearing, fastener, bars, belts, motors and more .. Germany • Paoparts mechanics kits, stepper motor, belts, bearing, fastener, electronics .. in France • RepRap Marketplace and Job Shop • German RepRap Foundation (GRRF) - seller of fully assembled kits for RepRap Generation 3 electronics, plastruder parts, stepper motors, plastics (ABS), mechanics kits and RepStrap kits. • Brupje - see items for sale - PLA, ABS, RAMPS, electronics • iPrint3D - seller of RepRap Generation 3 electronics • KD85.com - Suppliers of RepRap parts and materials in Europe. • MakerGear - Plastruders, Parts, Filament, Surfaces, Platforms, Printed Parts and More • Mendel-Parts.com - Gen6 Electronics, Full Hardware kits, bearings, belts, aluminum and plastic Thick/Thin sheets, Kapton tape&film, extruder parts, stepper motors, SLS printed parts, reprapped plastics on pre-order. • REPRAP CENTRAL -Pre-assembled RepRap Mendels, RepRap Mendel Kits, Makerbot Thing-O-Matics and Cupcakes - ABS and PLA filament also available in various colours. • MakerBot Industries - Generation 3 Electronics Mostly Assembled, plastruder kit, MakerBot Thing-O-Matic Kit, and CupCake CNC kit. • RepRap-Fab - seller of PRUSA and MENDEL reprapped plastics , and Extruder parts.(Germany) • RepRap Kit - seller of plastic filament, bearings, etc. (UK) • RepRap Source - seller of plastic filament, older generation PCBs, and mechanical parts. • RepRap Stores - Multiple vendors and RepRappers selling kits, parts and materials • RepRap Parts Lister - generates shopping lists for a couple different stores. Currently limited to the Gen 3 electronics. • Pololu - Provider of a alternative stepper driver, for more information visit Pololu_Electronics • UltiMachine - seller of electronics, mechanical parts, and printing materials. • Circatek.co.uk - Electronics Design Consultants. Supplies Reprap v1.2 Motherboards Worldwide. • Thingfarm.org - PRUSA and MENDEL Hardware Kits (UK and Europe) • Thingfarm North America PRUSA and MENDEL Hardware Kits (USA and Canada) • eMAKERshop - vitamins sold by reprappers for reprappers. • ThreadShop - Prusa Mendel SAE Hardware kit • Technobots - Over 5,500 electronic and mechanical components including bearings, stepper motors and Pololu controllers. Shipping from the UK to worldwide • XYZ Printers Hardware kits, RP parts and electronics for your 3D printer • Baltic Bolt Fasteners in Estonia. Generally single visit can get you all required nuts/bolts/washers/springs. • LulzBot - Prusa Mendel plastic, rods, RAMPS & Sanguinololu electronics, and more. • MixShop International Shipping (from Canada) - Prusa/Original Mendel Hardware Kits, RAMPS Electronics, Motors and more! Non-kit Parts Suppliers Stepper Motors • StepperMotor#Suppliers - Includes details on how to determine if a motor is suitable. • mouwy.com • 2PrintBeta - Germany Electrical • digikey US - (online) • digikey Canada - Canada (online) • Mouser - online • element-14 - (online) - Worldwide supplier of electronics, and Design Engineer Community. • HobbyTronics - UK, Worldwide (online) - for Pololu and Arduino products, possibly other components. Accept PayPal. Mechanical • McMaster-Carr - ships to US addresses only (online) - one stop supplier for all the non-RR mechanical parts of Mendel. o 1m Length of M8x1.25 Threaded Rod: Part# 98861A080 o 1m Length of 8mm Smooth 304 Stainless Steel Rod: Part# 1272T17 • Fastenal - Canada and US (stores/online) - supplies all non-RR mechanical parts except for the drive belts. o 1m Length of M8x1.25 Threaded Rod: Part# 47572 o 3' Length of Grade A2 8mm Steel Precision Drill Rod: Part# 0988746 • SDP/SI - Canada (online) - supplies non-RR mechanical parts including drive belts (unknown if they supply all non-RR parts or not). • MSC Industrial - US, Canada, Mexico (online) - good for nuts, bolts, threaded rod and washers, not much else • Small Parts - US, Canada, Mexico (online) - good for materials like PEEK and PTFE in small quantities • Bolt Depot US, maybe others - Metric bolts, nuts and washers. • VXB Bearings International Shipping - Bearings and Linear motion Bars(exact sizes needed for mendel) • Marleva France, Europe (online) - Bolts, nuts, washers, threaded rod, • Belting Online UK, maybe others - made to measure drive belts - width and length can be specified. • BearingBoys Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic, Germany, Denmark, Spain, Finland, France, UK, Guernsey, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Jersey, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Ireland, Sweden - Bearings, FTPE, Timing belts. • Online Metals North America. - PEEK/PTFE and many types of metals cut to order. • MixShop International Shipping (from Canada) - Prusa/Original Mendel Hardware Kits, RAMPS Electronics, Motors and more!.........” (http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Buyers_Guide) 

Since most of us cannot make our own hotend, here are some of the most well known suppliers:

* Arcol 
* Budaschnozzle
* J-Head
* MakerGear
* ParCan

Check out this video comparison of the ParCan Hot end and the Reifsnyderb J-Head hot end by Rotorit.

If you wonder how the hotend can fail, check this video

SUMMARISING

To make a reprap print an object you need to:

  1. build the hardware
  2. build the electronics (RAMPS, Sanguinololu, Gen 6, etc)
  3. wire the motors,fans,endstops,thermistors,hotend to electronics
  4. upload firmware to electronics
  5. load Host to PC and connect printer
  6. use a slicer program on PC(skeinforge/sfact , replicatorG) to slice an stl file (the object you want to print)and generate gcode
  7. load to your Host the generated gcode from the slicing program
  8. execute the 'print' command on Host


CHAPTER 3

BUILDING

Assuming that you have all the needed parts, it is time to start building….

Manuals

The REPRAP book. This is your first stop. A very comprehensive guide on building your own reprap.

Prusa Mendel wiki guide.

Here is the step-by-step build manual for prusa Mendel

garyhodgson.com, Visual Instructions

Optionally, if you are making the WADE’s extruder, you will need this manual

Sells Mendel build manual from reprapwiki

Below is a series of instructions for Makergear Prusas. They are prusas with some parts modified for better. Makergear is also known for its good quality of hotends

After you have finished building, you need to calibrate the printer. Here is Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide

Video Guides

Here are the videos of spacexula on a step-by-step building of a Prusa

Makergear Prusa (under the series “still extruding”).

The Sells Mendel

Improve your soldering skills (youtube) 1 2 3

How to crimp without crimp gun (youtube) 1

How to crimp with crimp gun (youtube) 1

Here is a series of video tutorials on assembling a makergear hotend.Some steps are common for any hotend.

Here is a series of video tutorials on assembling a mendel-parts hotend V9.

If you choose to use sprinter for firmware, you need to see the tutorial for sprinter by spacexula

When it is time to calibrate, you have to see spacexula's x,y & z calibration tutorial

Electronics

Here is a step-by-step guide of RAMPS v1.2 Build continued here

Some info from reprapwiki on Gen6

Ramps

Sanguinololu

Note: When you ask kthx or someone for the cable color order for motors connection on electronics, you usually get 4 colors in particular order. It is presumed that you hold the electronics board at the right orientation, that is the orientation that allows you to read the letters or words that are printed on the board - not read the letters upsidedown!

Arduino

Arduino drivers, control application, and install instructions (you need those to connect arduino with your computer and upload the firmware) Download page

Installation: Step-by-step instructions for setting up the Arduino software and connecting it to an Arduino Uno, Mega2560, Duemilanove, Mega, or Diecimila.

Software

You need:

  1. the HOST software (Pronterface, Repsnapper, RepRap)
  2. the application to convert an object file into Gcode (Reprap, Repsnapper, Skeinforge/SFACT, ReplicatorG)
  3. additional software (to create 3d objects for printing and then adjusting them on printing plate.Note: for printing one object only is automatically set to center of print surface)

Here, is a Comparison of RepRap Toolchains (a toolchain consists of all the software elements needed to create printed 3d models from CAD models to firmware)

Pronterface

Repsnapper application, the host+slicer, manual and code for all available OSes

RepRap host software latest release , the original host+slicer by Adrian Bowyer's team. For installation instructions see:

and for user instructions see:

Skeinforge gcode application and manual. Windows self-extracting here.Enrique's blog contains all the announcement and troubleshooting info about new versions of SF.

ReplicatorG Host+gcode application and manual

Slic3r another gcode application by Sound, and read me

SFACT is already merged into Pronterface, you can also download SFACT. Since it is always in developement, you may need to test the experimental versionthat needs python to run. Also, there is a SFACT FAQ.

Art of illusion download , the software that helps you to design your objects

OpenScad download, which is more focused on the design of non-artistic objects.Read the manual carefully, also check http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/06/30/openscad-intermediates-fixing-design-problems/ , http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/02/02/openscad-intermediates-combining-forms/ , http://www.iheartrobotics.com/search/label/OpenSCAD . A Tutorial roundup is available from makerbot.

Blender can be used to arrange many objects in one print batch, like the platter found in pronterface. Also you can use it to rotate objects on the plate to meet your needs. Get it here. A quick guide can be found here.

Here is a page on Useful_Software_Packages with more description details and more links.

Firmware

Sprinter firmware, download it, unzip it, load it to arduino connection software, and then upload it. Remember to specify what arduino you have, from the ‘tools’ menu.Please consult spacexula's video guide meantioned earlier. 

Note: before uploading sprinter to arduino, you must make some changes in order to make it work properly..
*changes in cofiguration.h
-set you motherboard
-set your microsteps (consult josef prusa calculator, Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide)
-verify endstop flag (true or false depends on NC or NO connection, more for this chapter 4&5)
*changes in pins.h
-verify your motherboard (or motherboard version for RAMPS)

Teacup firmware, "...claimed to be faster than Sprinter, more elaborate configuration options Teacup is a decent alternative for Sprinter. However, because of its easier configuration we advise you to get started with Sprinter." (https://reprapbook.appspot.com/#d0e982)

Marlin firmware is a mashup between Sprinter, grbl and many original parts.It is available here for all hardware types (read the ream.me file).

Another firware is by Scribblej, the Sjfw, instruction can be found here

Here, is a List of all Firmwares available, with more decriptions.

Miscellaneous

  • If you choose to power your printer using an ATX power supply, like those that use the PCs, you will need to go to "How to jumpstart atx psu". The wiki page explains more about psus.
  • Flickr account. You need one in order to show your prints and printing problems
  • Create a folder in your hard disk named REPRAP or whatever you like, in order to keep there everything related to reprap; from software to tutorial videos and docs for future reference. Subfolders named software, objects, videotutorials, manuals, irclogs, etc keep everything organised.
  • The Essential Calibration Set is what you need after building. It is advisable to regularly print some after major or minor changes to hardware or software. Also advisable when you have printing problems. Get it here
  • Thingiverse, is the repository for 3d objects ready to print. You need it to download test pieces for your machine calibration. Also your main source for objects to print.
  • IRC

Log in to irc #reprap and start logging (simple browser interface) (firefox chatzilla plugin) IRC Server: irc.freenode.net.You may not know, but your query may already have been answered in there just minutes before you ask. Always check the log thoroughly. IRC #Reprap’s bot, kthx: http://bot.kthx.nl/bot/factoid

  • Pastebin.com, you need this to paste your problematic gcode instead inserting to irc reprap channel
  • Josef Prusa's blog, and his ideas on the heatbed.
  • Material Safety Data Sheet for PLA [1]or [2] and ABS [3] or [4]
  • You may want to scan objects for printing... check this site. You can make a 3d scanner on your own!

CHAPTER 4

TIPS

After getting enough info on what you are about to do, it is time to actual start building.... I will try to decribe the steps i followed to build and finally do my first print.

Building tips

  • I recommend you should first read the Reprap book to familiarise yourself. Then, read the visual guide while watching the video guides of spacexula. In this way you will understand fully the visual guide.I found some supplemental build details here and here.

Note:Don't be afraid of mistakes!Excluding exeptiontal cases, REPRAP is VERY FORGIVING if you make any mistake.Bolts and screws make any joint temporary, so a mistaken placed part can easily be fixed.The same applies to soldering:always have the desolder with you..

exeptional cases in my point of view can be considered:

  1. Heatcore overheating due to faulty/disconnected thermistor
  2. Liquid or loose bolt&nut drop on electronics (you need to find some cover after finishing everything)>The sane applies for loose cables near electronics
  3. Connecting/disconnecting motors or any other cable from electronics without turning it off first
  4. RP part break due to overtightening (like rod clamps), but this can be replaced with another.
  5. Motor overhating due to poor cooling or if there is an obstacle on one of the carriages path, forcing it to stop while the motor is trying to move it
Of course, if such a mistake happen, the broken/burned part can always easily be replaced.

So the bottom line is that even you make the worst mistake, it will cost you some extra money & time..

  • Machine orientation

decide what is your front side for the machine.Original design assumes that Front is the side that y motor is mount.Before building further, understant the positions of the y,x motors and the corresponding positions of x,y endstops.

  • The jig

Make sure you have a jig."Use spacer bars to calibrate common distances. A good arrangement for the y-axis jig is to tape a longer bar over the top of the spacer bar (see pic) to achieve a perpendicular alignment. The top bar only has to be longer by ~10 mm at each end. This arrangement is not necessary for the other two frame jigs. Another good method is to use threaded rod with nuts at the right distance. If you twist the nuts in opposite directions you will lock them."(http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_assembly_notes). Note:when tightening your frame you want that the jig can be inserted easily into the measured gap.This means that you must not apply force to insert or extract it.

  • Measure, tighten, measure again
  • Inserting the x-y carriages

When inserting the x-y carriages you need to pay attention to the following:

  1. first assemble but not tighten.
  2. make sure the carriage move freely.Try to give it a push, it should move little more before it stops.You must not apply much force to move it.If you do, then you need to realign your smooth rods and bushings.
  3. move y carriage to the far end (away from you). Tighten the 2 bar clamps of that side.
  4. repeat step 2.The carriage must behave the same.
  5. move y carriage to your side. Tighten the 2 bar clamps of that side.
  6. repeat step 2.The carriage must behave the same.
  7. Repeat all the procedure again for x carriage.


  • Tightening the x,y motor belts

When tightening the x,y motor belts, you need to make sure that it is optimum tight.This means that the belt is virbating like a tightened string when hit lightly. Note: DO NOT OVERTIGHT.In order to assure this, just observe how the y motor's shaft is moving off center when applying force on the the belt that is attached on the pulley.Very important is that the pulley is vertical to the belt and not off-center due to tension.You can understand this by moving the y carriage manual;if you notice that the belt is trying to move out of the pulley's teeth or it is travelling along the idler's width, then you must either:

  1. realign the idlers (one or both of them)
  2. realign belt clamps
  3. realign motor
  4. release or apply tension to the belt

The same goes for the x carriage. I call optimum belt tighness when you rotate a little the pulley by hand and you see that the carriage moves as well.If there is a chance that you turn the pulley but the carriage does not follow right away -watch cerfully if there is a small raise of the belt at the teeth of the pulley while doing this- then you have to tighten the belt.Also when you press the belt vertically with your finger, you need to feel some resistance from it.

  • Cable wiring

Before make any wiring, decide where your electronics will be, how the motor and endstop cables will run along vertices, how heatbed cables will allow the y carriage move freely, without obstracting its move.You need to know your relectric/electronic arrangement in order to calculate the right cable length.

  • Y carriage holes

Before assembling the y carriage on rods, you need to make the holes that the screws of the print bed will mount.Also you need to make corresponding holes on the prind bed.Moreover you need to make holes for the heatbed (if you choose to use one).Lastly, you need to take measures in order to make the glass or aluminum print surface (if you choose ot have one)

  • Enstops

They usually have 3 pins under the names:NO,NC,C.Sprinter firware assumes that you have connected the NC and C cables to "S" and "-" accordingly. If you havent done so, then either you change the firware (inside the FW code, you will find what to change in what since there is detailed explanation), or change the wiring of the endstop side.(NC or NO go to "S" C go to "-")

  • Preliminary Tests

After assemblying the x and y carriages, before mounting the e-motor with heatcore, it is wise to make some motor tests.You will need to have all motors wired to electronics (preferable mount als the thermistors), upload the firware to electronics, do all the firmware adjustments mentioned in previous chapter, load the host, connect the printer to host and finally give some "move" instructions, "home" instructions, "extrude" instructions. 

IMPORTANT:Before turning the machine on, have the x,y,z axis centered. 
This means that your carriages are in the middle of their paths, not at the ends.
Also be ready to turn the OFF switch if something is going wrong.

You dont have to have filament or have mount the heat core. Observe if the carriage moves at the correct direction.Correct direction is moving away from the endstop when you give a "+ X 10" instruction.If i does not move or if it does move but when you have pressed the endstop, consult previous bullet point or troubleshooting guide.Check all the axis same way:"+X 10". Then give the "home: instruction to home the carriages.If all 3 axis home ok, then it is time to check extremities.Just tell it to move to +200 for the x,y carriages (of course it is at home first).Then try to extreme z axis.Give repeatively the +z 10 command to reach 10 cm in hight.Be carefull not to hit any part at vertices while raising x carriage, also be aware of the x carriage timing belt....If everything is ok, perform a virtual print.Simply load a file to skeinforge or what ever you have for slicing, slice it, load it to host and press the print button.During print, you will notice the x carriage move, the z axis move, the y carriage move.Also you will notice the e-motor gear to rotate as well.If you dont notice any strange noise, or whatever suspicious, you continue mounting remaining parts.

Note:for virtual prints you must not have connected the heatbed and heatcore power cables..

  • How to insert/extract filament

Inserting

  1. Loose the filament idler springs.
  2. Insert filament by hand gently, until it cannot move more.
  3. Set heatcore at extracting temp, that is 185C for PLA and 230C for ABS.
  4. When temp is reached, push gently by hand filament down until it oozes from the nozzle.
  5. Tighten idler springs.
  6. Test extrude from host program.

Extracting

  1. Loose the filament idler springs.
  2. Set heatcore at 150C for ABS, 130C for PLA.
  3. When temp is reached, pull up the filament with your hand.
  4. Turn of heatcore immediately
  • Alternative to printed parts (RP)
  1. z axis couplers. After some printing you may have problems with z axis RP couplers; they loose grip.Usually people replace these if they see that the problem is persistant. I have found these couplers but you may also search and find more of these types.
  2. bushings. It is known that the original prusha plastic bushings wear off after some use.The trend now is LM8UU linear bearings.There are many reprap shops that sell them now.However just type 'lm8uu' in ebay search bar to see what will come out.Remember, that these bearings require PR parts that are modified to grip these bearings.All the modified parts can be found in thinkiverse.
  • Mounting Glass and the Heated Buid Platform

Check this video

Calibrating - Fine tuning tips

  • Setting Endstops above print surface

Supposely you have mounted the heatbed or the print surface in general, you need to adjust exactly your endstops in order not to print outside this area.The print surface of your prusa or mendel is 20x20 cm.

  1. Move y carriage to home.
  2. Move x carriage to far left, then right and make sure that the nozzle has equal distance from each edge.
  3. Then move y carriage to +200.
  4. repeat step 2
  • Fine tuning exact distance between nozzle-surface

When you set the nozzle to a certain distance from the print surface when homing the z axis, you must be sure that this distance will be the same for all the print surface, wherever the nozzle will be.

  1. Move y carriage to +100.
  2. Move x carriage to +100.
  3. Home z axis.
  4. Set z endstop to required nozzle-surface distance.
  5. Move x carriage to far left.Home y cariage
  6. If the distance is not what you have set, then readjust it by screwing/unscrewing the adjacent screw that holds teh print surface (the one that has the springs under the print surface)
  7. Move x carriage far right.
  8. Repeat step 6.
  9. Move y carriage +200.
  10. Move x carriage far left.
  11. Repeat step 6.
  12. Move x carriage far right.

Verify settings with steps 1,2,3.After this, try print this to verify your settings. Nozzle must have same distance from surfave everywere.In order to define the right nozzle-surface distance, see troubleshooting guide,Printing.

Printing tips

  • Printed parts detaching tools

In my experience detaching ABS from Kapton may prove a little bit hard. A set of blades like these can be very usefull for detaching and cleaning the part.

  • Rough pring surface

After some use, your kapton may become rough due to peeling.It is not time to replace it, at least not yet. Try in skeinforge/sfact the raft plug in, setting 1 interface and 1 base layers.Leave rest of values untouched. It prints 2 intercrossed layers before printing the part, helps smoothen all surface problems (including slight inclination), allowing your piece to have a nice first layer. But you may experience some trouble removing it from piece, or for ABS, need to have high bed temp since first layer is not touching the bed anymore.

  • Rotating objects in openscad

The following is an extract from a dialogue i had with Triffid_Hunter in #reprap

"openscad: rotate([0, 0, 0]) import_stl("blah.stl");

<Triffid_Hunter>COS_: the 3 numbers for rotate are rotation about the X, Y and Z axes in degrees.change by 90 to test output. The stl must be in opencscad folder. Then select design->reload&compile.Then if satified, select compli&render then export as *.stl file."

  • Rotating objects in Blender
  1. open blender
  2. file->import stl (load the stl you want to rotate)
  3. right click on object, press "r", then the axis to rotate(x,y,or z)
  4. type the angle to rotate (90,180 etc ) object will rotate instantly
  5. press enter when satisfied
  6. file->exprot stl, save object

Note: be carefull that the object must touch the grid (z axis=0) otherwise object will not start print at layer 0 but higher..


CHAPTER 5

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

Building

MOVING AXIS

  • Carriage moves only to one direction, but moves reversed only when i keep press the endstop

Verify your endstop wiring.Cables should be at NC and C. The "NC" goes to "S" on RAMPS and the "C" goes to "-".

OR

Change the logic of the firmware.Sprinter allows this. I have not tried any other firmware.If anyone has, please write it here. 

Sprinter firmware, configuration.h
//// Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors
// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; //set to true to invert the logic of the endstops
//If your axes are only moving in one direction, make sure the endstops are connected properly.
//If your axes move in one direction ONLY when the endstops are triggered, set ENDSTOPS_INVERTING to true here
  • I am getting a reading off my thermistors, but ALL of my axises will not move at all.

Confirm that you did attach the 12V leg of your power supply to the electronics. If you attached 5V by accident none of the Axises will work (http://titanpad.com/qJEQDJxQs6 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)

  • In which direction should the Axis move?

Z goes up when going positive, down when going negative X goes left when going negative and right when going positive Y goes forward when going poitive and back on the negative You can reverse stepper direction by flipping the stepper plug, or changing settings in firmware. ALWAYS REMOVE POWER BEFORE UNPLUGGING A STEPPER (http://titanpad.com/4MdGMrV192 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)

  • 1 axis will not move at all, what is wrong?

If only 1 Axis will not move -1st swap the stepper motor to a differerent driver, If the problem is likely that you do not have proper electrical connection to the motor, insure that both coils are connected AABB A connected to A B connected to B electrically -If the problem stays on the Axis it's an issue with the board, if your electronics have removeable stepper controllers move the stepper controller to an axis that works. If the problem moves then you either have a stepper that is turned all the way down, or a dead stepper controller -If the problem STILL does not move you might have an issue with your electronics themselves, turn your board over and make sure that the sockets for the stepper controlers and the related capacitors/reistors for the axis are all properly soldered. Any questions with a joint just touch up the solder.(http://titanpad.com/qJEQDJxQs6 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)

Heatbed

  • I cannot apply my 70mm Kapton on glass surface without bubbles!The tape is too large and i cannot control it

Have you tried the wet method? Check this video

Electronics

  • What order do the wires in my stepper motors get connected to my Stepper Driver?

Ramps and Sanguinololu Electronics both have motors attached in an AABB pattern meaning 2 sets of wires that are "Closed" or give you a resistance in the 1st 2 pins, and the second coil, which again gives a resistance in the Second 2 sets of wire. The color is different for each manufacturer.(http://titanpad.com/4MdGMrV192 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)

Electrical

MOTORS

  • When I send a move command to an axis the motor makes a buzz sound without moving.

You need to adjust the trimpot.It can be found on the stepper driver, it is the little round thing that looks like a screwhead.Turn the power off, and turn it a little bit clockwise.Rotating the tripot gives more power to motor, but you need only as much as it can move it, as more power can lead to motor burn.This rotation can be done without turning off the electronics but you must be carefull not to touch anything with your screwdriver.

  • My motor is being strange. It makes a grinding noise whenever I tell it to step 10mm and adjusting the pot doesn't fix it. The wiring seems to be fine as well. In addition, it will sometimes move, but then reverse direction a bit. This is also happening with my extruder, it will move in one direction then back off

Your connector to your motor is very likely lose, swap the axis and the behavior should follow the motor. recrimp or replace the motor connector. If the problem is on the motor side of the conneciton you might have to replace the motor if you can't take it apart.(http://titanpad.com/qJEQDJxQs6 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)

  • One of my motors just stops turning partway through an otherwise perfect print.

Most likely, the motor is overheating, and losing torque. You need to turn down (counter-clockwise) the adjustment pot for the motor.(http://titanpad.com/4MdGMrV192 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)

  • I can't get my motor into the sweet spot between enough current and too much. If I turn it down enough to stop from overheating, I get skipped steps.

Add a fan, heat-sink or both to the motor driver.(http://titanpad.com/4MdGMrV192 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)

  • I need more info about stepper motors, i.e. wiring, motor types etc..

check the wiki http://reprap.org/wiki/Stepper_Motors also you can check http://www.sapiensman.com/step_motor/


Firmware

TO BE CONTINUED....

Software

TO BE CONTINUED....

Printing

  • What is the right distance between nozzle and surface?

It should be equal or less your print layer.If you print at 0.25 layer height then this is your distance.Measuring this distance is easy with a feeler gauge;just set distance using the z endstop and measure the gap in betwen by inserting the thin steel blade.If it gets through roughly, it is ok, but if it gets through very easily, you need to reduce the gap and measure again.Be carefull while measuring, the blade must fit in the gap without having to push the surface down pressing the springs.

  • My print suddenly gets shifted over by Xmm, partway through the print.

This could be caused by a number of problems. The most likley is you need to adjust the current for your stepper motor - find the adjustment pot for the motor, and carefully turn it up (clockwise) a tiny bit. If you still lose steps, turn it up a bit more. It could also be do to your belt tension being too low (and too high of tension can lead to current probelms as above). Belt or bearing binding is another common cause of these problems. Make sure your axes all move smoothly, if you feel any sticky spots that could be the cause.(http://titanpad.com/4MdGMrV192 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)

Note:if you have such a problem on x carriage, after several hours of printing with the heatbed on, then you must know that the heat from the heatbed affects the belt tension.If your belt is somewhat loose, then the heat decrease the tension a lot.Usually you miss steps when carriage acelerates to move to next print point

  • Why does my extruder skips steps whenever I am trying to print?

Issues to check

-Is your stepper controller getting hot? If it overheats you will get skips durring extrusion

-If using a geared stepper, does the 2 gears mesh exactly the same across the full rotation of your larger gear? If you have a part that has higher resistance you gear might not be perfectly round / have a defect. Try to use a hand file to clean up the gear meshing, or move the stepper motor gear further from the driven gear to allow more room for the defects.

-Is your thermal barrier getting hot? If your thermal barrier gets to hot it can cause increased resistance to motion by your cold end. You might need to put a fan on your thermal barrier.

-Your nozzle might have trash in it. If all else fails remove your hot end and clean out all the plastic. Most hot ends this can be done with a blow torch, but some are too fragile for this and you must use a long acetone dip.(http://titanpad.com/NKIQnvwEtd , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)

  • My prints will not stick to the HBP (Heated Build Plate).

Many things can cause a print not to stick, check these things:

-Is your HBP hot enough? 70C for PLA 110-120C for ABS

-Have you got skin oil or lube from the axises on the plate? It will cause prints not to stick (you can clean them with alcohol, acetone, or ammonia (Windex, tested on glass) )

-Are you pressing the 1st layer into the HBP enough? The extrusion should take on a slightly flat appearance without actually squishing it (you should not see the nozzle dragging thought he middle of the print.

-Are you printing the 1st layer slow enough? All materials like the travel speed to be 15-20mm/s for the 1st layer.(http://titanpad.com/4MdGMrV192 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)

CHAPTER 6

ADVANCED LESSONS

TO BE CONTINUED....

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