Thermoplast Extruder Hints
Please do not add to this page. (It is slightly overcrowded as it is.)
This Page Contains multiple RepRap development projects and should be split up. Each individual project/design/improvement should have its own development page within an encompassing category.
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| License | unknown
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| Author | unknown
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| Categories | Thermoplastic Extruder 1.0, Build Platform
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| CAD Models | |
| External Link |
Bed Materials
Some bed materials work better than others. ABS does not seem to stick to the MDF bed at all. So far I've tried the following with ABS:
- Electrical tape - sticks, but not well enough to stop warping.
- Glass - doesn't stick at all.
- CD-Roms - sticks well, gives a nice surface finish, but tends to warp. Build area is obviously very limited (and circular!).
- Acrylic Sheet - works! ABS sticks to it quite nicely; I had some warping, but I only used 1.5 mm thick Acrylite FF P99 Acrylic Sheet from Cyro Industries. I've got some thicker stuff to test again as soon as I get my extruder running without the flexible drive.
- 1/4 inch Acrylic Sheet - works very well. Strong enough to resist warping. Rafts need to be somewhat weaker than the part, otherwise removing the part is very difficult.
Wade 2008.10.01
- Conductive foam (the kind that you use to ship IC chips I have found works very well and you can reuse it as long as your first layer is not deeply embedded.
Bruce W 2008.10.07
For HDPE, a good bed is a 'plastic' kitchen chopping board (probably itself made of HDPE). A raft, such as that produced by the skeinforge software, sticks to the bed, provides a base for the product and enables the product to be removed without damage to the bed.
Jon Wise 2008.11.14
- Blue (Painter's) Tape
A surprisingly awesome surface. Not enough to stop warping, but relatively cheap and very durable. Some brands even work on a heated bed, so long as you do not attempt to peel them off above room temp (don't try, it's icky).
- Kapton Tape
Another good surface, especially when used with a heated bed. Not so great on the pocketbook, but with proper handling a good investment.
Insulation of the heater barrel
There's a good alternative to glass fiber wool, a material I wanted to avoid. It will give you an itchy skin because you have a lot of small cuts from the glass. What I did differently, I cut a rectangular piece out of a 'silicone baking mat'. You can find these in a cooking store or various other places. It can handle high temperatures (above 300 without any problems, I guess) and it's very rubbery. It can hold everything together very easily and it can be removed as well (as opposed to fire cement). It doesn't have much specific heat, so the extruder will heat up (or cool down) quickly, because only the copper needs to get very hot.
