Diamond FolgerTech FT-5

Diamond FolgerTech FT-5

Release status: Development

Description	Diamond FolgerTech FT-5
License	CC-BY-NC-SA
Author	User:RepRap.me
Contributors
Based-on	Diamond Hotend
Categories	RepRap Color 3D printing
CAD Models
External Link	www.reprap.me

Diamond Hotend upgrade guide for FolgerTech FT-5

This is the official build guide intended for those who wish to modify FolgerTech FT-5 for the Diamond Hotend.
A little warning: this procedure will most likely void warranty on your device, so before proceeding please read this guide thoroughly and be sure you know and understand what you are about to do.

Part list

These are the parts needed for upgrading a FolgerTech FT-5 with the Diamond Hotend. For printed parts see the Thingiverse link at the bottom of this page.

Electronics

• 1 x Stepper Expander X1
• 2 x Stepsticks

3D printed mount kit

• Diamond FolgerTech FT-5 mount

Diamond Hotend

• 1 x Diamond Nozzle 1.7 mm version
• 3 x E3D Lite6 heatsink with bowden fitting
• 1 x Thermistor NTC 100k fitted with wire, about 70 cm or more
• 1 x Heater cartridge (12 Volt / 40 Watt)
• 1 x Axial fan (12 volt / 50x50 mm)
• 1 x Radial fan (12 volt)

Extruders

• 3 x MK9 extruder (motor, drivegear, injection molded parts, etc.)
• 3 x Bowden tube OD:4mm, ID:2mm, Length:650mm

Assembling

Cooling Shield

These instructions are written with bq Prusa i3 Hephestos in mind but adapt very well to the FolgerTech FT-5

1. 
   If you haven't already done so, or you want the one with the blower fan option, download and print the Diamond Hotend Cooler Shield (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:720520) or the Diamond cooler shield PRUSA i3 with blower addon (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1370444). For normal use we recommend printing the cooler shield in PLA. For printing with materials that require higher printing temperatures, we recommend printing the shield in ABS or another material with a higher glass transition temperature (Tg).
   
   
2.  
   Insert the two M3 nuts into the hexagonal holes at the rear of the printed Cooler Shield and press them into place. If necessary use a soldering iron to heat the nuts and melt them into place.
   The two holes are spaced 30.5 mm apart, hence it should fit most Prusa i3 printers, but check with your printer anyways - you may have to customize this part if your printer have different specifications.
   If you are assembling the version with the blower pendant, insert a M3 nut through the designated internal slot.
   
   
3. 
   Apply a small amount of the thermal compound to the center hole of the Diamond Hotend.
   
   
4. 
   Insert the heater cartridge into the center hole of the Diamond Hotend and press it in as much as possible. Wipe off excess compound. If there's no excess remove the heater cartridge and repeat from step 3 adding more compound. The heater cartridge must be inserted so far in that it will be held in place and partly covered by the lower fins of the HeatSinks. Failure in executing this step can lead to skewed Heatsinks, improperly tightened HeatSinks and even a leaking hotend, so please be sure to do this step right.
   
   
5.    
   Dip the thermistor tip into the remaining thermal compound and press it into the 2 mm hole in the Diamond Hotend along with some millimeters of the PTFE tape tubings, which will keep the thermistor locked in place.
   
   
6. 
   Stack the three Thermal Isolator Sheets, feed the wire ends through their corresponding holes, then firmly press the sheets onto the threaded part of the HeatSinks. Remove any insulator residue stuck in or on the threaded part.
   
   Note:
   At this point it is recommended to wind some PTFE Teflon tape (plumbers tape) around the threads of the three HeatSinks before assembling, this will help to avoid leakage. Another option is to use "liquid sealing" e.g. SISEAL which allows for better fitting between the hotend and HeatSink.
   
   
7. 
   Observe orientation in relation to the thermistor and screw the HeatSinks loosely into the Diamond Hotend. Do not tighten yet, we will do this later.
   
   
8. 
   Grasp the wire ends from the heater cartridge along with the thermistor wire ends and feed them all the way through the pointy end of the Cooler Shield orienting the shield in such a way that the thermistor is located closest to the Cooler Shield mounting plate. Press the small black Bowden Fittings into the rear ends of the HeatSinks.
   
   
9. 
   Making sure the wires remain in the central opening of the Cooler Shield, press the shield into the hotend assembly. The rear end of the HeatSinks must click equally into the grooves on the Cooler Shield. Retighten the HeatSinks but be careful not to over-tighten or the Heat Breaks might collapse.
   
   
10. 
    Use 3 cable ties to attach the HeatSinks onto the Cooler Shield and the fourth cable tie to attach the wires onto the rear part of the Cooler Shield (the side which has a groove where the cables will fit).
    
    
11. 
    Cut off any excess of the cable ties.
    
    
12.       
    Mount the fan using 4 pcs M3 x 20 mm countersunk screws. Make sure to orient the fan such that the airflow goes down into the Cooler Shield (label side of fan pointing into the assembly) and the wires coming out at the same side as the other wires.
    Optional you can mount a blower fan.

    Hardware

    • Dismount the original extruder
    • Mount the assembled Diamond Cooling shield with the 3pcs lasercut spacers and 2pcs M3x45mm.

    

    • Your cooling shield should now look something like this. (Sorry for the rotation. Please rotate the picture if you know how to!)

    

    • Assemble the bowden extruders (following the steps on Diamond Hotend).
    • Mount the extruders on the frame of the printer.

    

    • See "Attaching the bowden tubes" as well as Bowden tube hints section on the Diamond Hotend page.

    Electronics

    These instructions will guide you briefly how to add the extra stepstick and the Stepper Expander X1
    

    • Mount the Stepper Expander X1 using the adhesive PCB spacers.
    • Connect The Stepper Expander to the MKS AUX-2 using the 2x5P IDC cable.
    • Attach the power wires from terminals of the power supply to the Stepper Expander X1's screw terminal. Make sure you attach +12V to +12V and GND to GND.
    • While observing orientation insert an extra stepstick into the vacant E1 slot on the MKS board and a stepstick into the Stepper Expander X1. (The trimpot on a standard A4988 driver should be closest to the power terminals on the Stepper Expander).
    • Insert the motor connectors for all 3 extruders into the E1, E2 and the Stepper Expander X1. Don't mind the orientation now, as you can later turn the connector if the extruder runs in the wrong direction.
    • Adjust the extruder stepsticks to output 1.2 Ampere. See the link section for a separate guide on the subject of current limiting.
    • Tie all wirings with ziplocks so that no wires are blocking the airflow from the cooling fans to the stepper drivers.

    

    Sources

    Part files

    • Diamond mount for FolgerTech FT-5 (Diamond cooler shield PRUSA i3) on Thingiverse - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1370444
    • MK9 bowden extruder mount on Thingiverse - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:784247
    • Diamond Hotend Insulator - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:720520/#files
      • diamond_thermal_isolation.dxf

    Links

    • This guide - http://reprap.org/wiki/Diamond_FolgerTech_FT-5
    • Diamond Hotend general guide - http://reprap.org/wiki/Diamond_Hotend
    • Stepper Expander - http://reprap.org/wiki/Stepper_Expander
    • Adding more extruders - http://reprap.org/wiki/Adding_more_extruders
    • Current limiting your stepper drivers, see section "current limiting" - http://reprap.me/pololu.html