Adapto

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Crystal Clear action run.png
Adapto

Release status: working

AdaptoBIG.jpg
Description Adapto is a 3D printer that can be built with many different types of frames and frame materials.
License GPL
Author ROTORIT
Based-on Experience
Categories RepRap machines, Cartesian-XZ-head, Wood, T-Slot
CAD Models
External Link Github
Thingiverse


Contents

ADAPTO

Adapto with alu frame
Screenshot of the .blend file

Info

The thought behind the Adapto 3D printer is that one can use the same printed parts on printers with different types of materials (in the frame).

The history behind this design is that i got hold of some alu extrusions that was intended to be used on a MendelMax. During the MM build i got so extremely annoyed with how over engineered it is so I decided to tear the MM apart in favor to make a design that only used 50% of the MM extrusions (that means i now have enough extrusions for 2 printers :D ).

I also designed the parts in a way that makes the builder able to use either Alu extrusions (20x20mm), wood, alu, acryl plates or plates made out of any material actually (if it is stiff enough).

I recommend not using anything thicker than 20mm thick plates/stripes (due to the y motor mount and y idler parts) and use max 34mm wide frame parts (due to the design of the feets), but thinner is ok if the material is stiff enough.

For an alu Adapto Walkaround Video, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWmtuGsg8Us

Some variants

Aluminum Adapto
A wooden adapto

As known this is a VERY "hackable" design and have a lot of options. It is impossible to cover all the things one can do to make the Adapto printer design work but if you are interested you can read about some more options and things that is possible on the Sample BOM for a Big T-Slot Adapto page. That BOM page lists parts, gives sample sources, and discusses possible alternatives.

ChristianS have made a awesome job making that page and it is highly recommended to pop by to read it.

Open your mind and let the creativity flow!



More info

This is also posted on:

The most up to date Files will always be on GitHub.


This is such an easy build it dont need much instructions.

  • Print the parts
  • choose your frame material
  • look at the pictures
  • BUILD IT! :D

Thanks to the entire RepRap- and Thingiverse- comunity for all the inspiration.

All the pictures can be viewed and downloaded from Thingiverse and GitHub

If you decide to build one, please feel free to add a pin on the Adapto map.

ENJOY!


Parts

Although this is a easy to build printer one need some parts for it.

  • RP parts that is the Printet plastic parts like extruder, smooth rod holders and parts that holds the frame together.
  • Frame that in this case is 20x20mm aluminum t-slot extrusions.
  • Smooth rods that in this case is 8mm thick.
  • Vitamins like screws, nuts, bearings, hobbed bolt, belts, pulleys springs and more.
  • Electronics that controls and drive the unit and also things like stepper motors, PSU, thermistors, heated bed, hot end, wires and more.

RP parts

This is the RP parts you need to build a 20x20mm alu extrusion framed Adapto with 8mm smooth rods, M5 Z-threaded rods and makes a 200x240mm build area with a Z travel up to about 270mm

So if you have a MendelMax frame laying around you can build 2 of this Adapto 3D printer :-)

Quantity Part Name Part Type Used Where Comment Looks like File Download

4

Y_Rod_Clamp_4_Off.stl

Adapto y rod clamp 8mm.jpg

RP
Y rod clamps
Holds the Y smooth rods firmly to the frame. You need 4 of these for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Y rod clamps
[1]GitHub,

[2]Direct

1

Y_Motor_Mount_1_Off.stl

Adapto Y motor mount.jpg

RP
Y motor mount
Holds the Y motor to the frame. Fits a Nema 17 stepper motor just fine. You need 1 of this for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Y motor mount
[3]GitHub,

[4]Direct

1

Y_Idler_1_Off.stl

Adapto y idler.jpg

RP
Y idler
This is the Y axes belt idler that holds the Y belt idler bearing(s) firmly to the frame. You need to print 1 of this .stl file (that actually contains 2 plastic parts) for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Y idler
[5]GitHub,

[6]Direct

1

Y_Belt_Block_1_Off.stl

Adapto Y belt block.jpg

RP
Y belt block
This part is to be mounted under the bed. It holds both ends of the Y belt firmly to the bed making the stepper able to move the Y akses. The belt can for example be mounted to this with Zipties and make you able to get the belt nice and tight. You need one of this for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Y belt block
[7]GitHub,

[8]Direct

3

Y_Bearing_Holder_LM8UU_3_Off.stl

Adapto y bearing holder.jpg

RP
Y bearing holders
Holds the Y axes bearings that slide on the Y smooth rods. Is to be mounted under the bed and holds a firm grasp on the y linear bearings of choice as long as the bearings have a outer diameter of about 15mm. You need at least 3 of these on each Adapto printer you build. Some people prefer to use 4.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Y bearing holders
[9]GitHub,

[10]Direct

2

Z_Motor_Holder_2_Off.stl

Adapto z motor mounts.jpg

RP
Z motor holder
Holds the Z motors firmly to the frame. You need 2 of this for each Adapto you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Z motor holder
[11]GitHub,

[12]Direct

1

Z_Couplers_M5.stl

Adapto z couplers M5.jpg

RP
Z couplers
Couples the Z threaded rods firmly to the Z motors. You need to print 1 of this .stl file (that actually contains 2 plastic parts) for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Z couplers
[13]GitHub,

[14]Direct

4

Foot_4_Off.stl

Adapto foot.jpg

RP
Feet
Holds the lower frame firmly assembled and also work as the feet clearing the Z motors from the table keeping the nice look intact. You need 4 of these for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Feet
[15]GitHub,

[16]Direct

2-10

90_innerCorner.stl

Adapto 90 inner corner.jpg

RP
90 inner corner
Primary to support the frame on the opposite side of the extrusion from the Z_Smooth_Rod_Holder_Lower_2_Off.stl helps to keep the high frame at 90 degrees onto the lower frame. Recommended is to also use 4 more supporting the high frame in x direction. Some people also prefer to use even 4 more of these on the inside corner on the back side of the feet. Optional buy some metal corners to do the job if you like overkill and don't trust your mother.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

90 inner corner
[17]GitHub,

[18]Direct

1

Extruder_Idler_1_Off.stl

Adapto extruder idler.jpg

RP
Extruder idler
Holds the extruder idler that squeeze the filament up against the hobbed bolt for consistent plastic feeding. Holds a 608 bearing with a short M8 threaded rot or preferably a sjort 8mm smooth rod. You need 1 of this for each Adapto Printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 60% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Extruder idler
[19]GitHub,

[20]Direct

1

Large_Gear_T36_1_Off.stl

Adapto extruder large gear.jpg

RP
Extruder large gear
Turns the hobbed bolt for filament feeding. It have 36 tooths and fits a M8 hobbed bolt nicely and have room for a M8 captive nut allowing it to lock on to the hobbed bolt using an additional nut. You need 1 of this for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 60% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Extruder large gear
[21]GitHub,

[22]Direct

1

Small_Gear_T13_1_Off.stl

Adapto extruder small gear.jpg

RP
Extruder small gear
Sits on the extruder motor and turns the large gear. Locks to the motor axle with a M3 captive nut with M3 screw. You need 1 of this for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 60% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Extruder small gear
[23]GitHub,

[24]Direct

1

Extruder_X_Carriage_Combo_1_Off.stl

Adapto extruder x carriage.jpg

RP
Extruder carriage
This is both the X-carriage and extruder combined in one plastic part. It holds the weight of the nema17 close to the X-smooth rods to prevent shaking and holds the 3 linear bearings making the x akses slide smoothly. You need 1 of this for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 60% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Extruder carriage
[25]GitHub,

[26]Direct

2

Z_Smooth_Rod_Holder_Lower_2_Off.stl

Adapto z smooth rod holder lower.jpg

RP
Z smooth rod holder lower
To hold the lower end of the Z smooth rod firmly to the frame. It fits a 8mm smooth rod nicely and ads another good looking part to the design. You need 2 of these for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Z smooth rod holder lower
[27]GitHub,

[28]Direct

2

Z_Smooth_Rod_Holder_Upper_2_Off.stl

Adapto z smooth rod holder upper.jpg

RP
Z smooth rod holder upper
To hold the upper end of the Z smooth rod firmly to the frame. It fits a 8mm smooth rod nicely and ads another good looking part to the design. You need 2 of these for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Z smooth rod holder upper
[29]GitHub,

[30]Direct

1

X_End_Idler_1_Off.stl

Adapto x end idlerr.jpg

RP
X end idler
Holds the X smooth rods, Z threaded rods firmly to the frame, the Z linear bearings in place and X idler in position to make the best possible print results. You need 1 of this for each Adapto Printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

X end idler
[31]GitHub,

[32]Direct

1

X_End_Motor_1_Off.stl

Adapto x end motor.jpg

RP
X end motor
Holds the X smooth rods, Z threaded rods firmly to the frame, the Z linear bearings in place and X motor in position to make the best possible print results. You need 1 of this for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

X end motor
[33]GitHub,

[34]Direct

1

Endstop_Holders_X_3.stl

Adapto endstop holders.jpg

RP
Endstop holders
Holds the end stops firmly to the frame. Some changes may be expected in these soonish but will do for now. you need to print 1 of this STL (that actually contains 3 plastic parts) for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Endstop holders
[35]GitHub,

[36]Direct

Frame

Quantity Length Part Type Used Where Comment Looks like
2 300mm 20x20mm aluminum extrusion
2x300mm
This is the frame parts that determine the width of the frame.(X direction) Using 300mm extrusions here will result in about 250mm X-travel.

In other words, about 50mm loss of X-travel relative to these frame parts. (If you need for example 300mm X-travel you have to use 350mm extrusions here.)

You need 2 of these 300mm lengths for each Adapto printer you build.

Alu extrusions
2 340mm 20x20mm aluminum extrusion
2x340mm
This is the frame parts that determine the length of the frame.(Y direction) Using 340mm extrusions here will result in about 210mm Y-travel.

In other words, about 130mm loss of Y-travel relative to these frame parts. (If you need for example 300mm Y-travel you have to use 430mm extrusions here.)

You need 2 of these 340mm lengths for each Adapto printer you build.

Alu extrusions
3 420mm 20x20mm aluminum extrusion
3x420mm
This is the frame parts that determine the Height of the frame.(Z direction) Using 420mm extrusions here will result in about 270mm Z-travel.

In other words, about 150mm loss of Z-travel relative to these frame parts. (If you need for example 300mm Z-travel you have to use 450mm extrusions here.)

You need 3 of these 420mm lengths for each Adapto printer you build.

Alu extrusions

Smooth rods

Part Used Where Quantity Recommended minimum lengths. Comment Looks like
X-smooth rods
X smooth rods
2 400mm Can without problems be longer than recommended minimum lengths.
Smooth rods
Y-smooth rods
Smooth rods
2 380mm Can without problems be longer than recommended minimum lengths.
Y smooth rods
Z-smooth rods
Smooth rods
2 440mm Can without problems be longer than recommended minimum lengths.
Z smooth rods

Vitamins

work in progress..... Some more awesomeness coming soon here :-)

Electronics

Any electronics, I guess, as long as it supports four steppers and two heaters. See e.g. List of electronics. --Traumflug (talk) 17:27, 16 September 2013 (PDT)
work in progress..... Some more awesomeness coming soon here :-)

How to build

Under construction ;-)

This guide is JUST A GUIDE and you don't have to follow this to the point. It is made to give you a good idea of how to do it and is not meant to be a ultimate blueprint of how to build the Adapto Printer. There might be a chance that you don't have the exact same parts as in this guide. The nuts might be slightly different, maybe you use thicker smooth rods and have the 10mm parts from the Adapto GitHub or maybe even use another frame material and color. There might be some upgrades that haven't been picked up and implemented in the guide just yet so please use it as a GUIDE, nothing else :-)

Anyway.. HERE WE GO! :D

Build step 1: Frame assembly.

Vitamins needed in this step

  • All Aluminum extrusions. 3x 420mm, 2x 340mm and 2x 300mm 7 lengths total
  • 89x T-slot nuts.
  • 47x M5x10mm screws.
  • 42x M5x12mm screws
  • 81x M5 washers (or 89 if you want to use washers on the Y-smooth rod holders).
  • 1x M8x40mm bolt (or some M8 threaded rod).(you need a bit longer bolt if you want to use lock nuts)
  • 4x M8 washers.
  • 2x M8 Nuts (+ 2, M8 lock nuts if you fancy that)
  • 2x 608 bearings.

RP-parts needed in this step

  • The 4 feet.
  • 10 corner brackets.
  • The 2 Y-idler parts.
  • The Y-motor mount.
  • The 2x Z-smooth rod holder upper parts.
  • The 2x Z-smooth rod holders lower parts.
  • The 4x Y-smooth rod holders.
  • The 2 Z-motor holders.

Mounted as shown in the pictures

1. Parts view.
AllParts.jpg
2. Tools you may need.
Tools.jpg
3. Clean the parts if necessary.
CleanTheParts.jpg
4. Make sure the holes is big enough to fit your Vitamins. Some drilling might be needed.
DrillUpHoles.jpg
5. Start by insering 2 T-slot nuts into one of the 340 extrusions and mount one of the corner brackets with 2x M5x10mm screws with washers like this(And continue to use washers on all the screws).
Mount1.jpg
6. Insert 2 T-slot nuts into one of the 300mm extrusions and screw it onto the first 340mm extrusion with 2 more M5x10mm screws like this.
Mount2.jpg
7. Insert 3 nuts into the inner slot of the 300mm Extrusion and add a corner bracket like this.
(Yes, all the corner brackets is to be mounted with M5x10mm screws)(or use M5x12mm + some additional washers to prevent them hitting the alu t-slot bottom) The 3rd nut is for the Y motor mount and can not be
added later on.
Mount3.jpg
8. Insert 2x T-slot nuts into the other 340mm extrusion and mount it like this.
Mount4.jpg
9. Insert 2 T-slot nuts into the inner slot of the 340mm extrusion and add another corner bracket like this.
Mount5.jpg
10. Do the same on the other (side) 340mm extrusion.
Mount6.jpg
11. Insert 4x T-slot nuts into the outer slot of the first 340mm extrusion. Then alide in 5x T-slot nuts in the top slot. Yes this is from now on, the top side of the lower frame
Mount7.jpg
12. Same on the other side.
Mount8.jpg
13. Slide 6x T-slot nuts in the inner slot of the last 300mm extrusion And slap it on like this.
Mount9.jpg
14. Lay the entire lower frame onto a very flat surface (kitchen bench is usually flat enough), square it off and tighten the screws.
Mount10.jpg
15. Start mounting the Top frame by sliding 2x T-slot nuts into the first 420mm extrusion and add a corner bracket like this.
Mount11.jpg
16. Do the same on the socond 420mm extrusion.
Mount12.jpg
17. Slide 4x T-slot nuts into the third(last) 420mm extrusion.
Mount13.jpg
18. Lay all the 420mm extrusions on top pf the lower frame like this and mount the third extrusion to the first 2 420mm extrusions like this.
Mount14.jpg
19. Use the lower frame as template to align and make sure the top frame have the same spacing and tighten the screws firmly.
Mount15.jpg
20. Use 4x T-slot nuts to mount corner brackets on both sides of the top frame like this.
Mount16.jpg
21. To mount the 2 top Z-smooth rod holders you need 3 T-slot nuts on each side.(Still M5x10mm with washers) (The fourth hole in these RP parts is to be used on wooden frames only). faten loosely. aligning comes later on.
Mount17.jpg
22. Does yor result so far look like this too? IT SHOULD! :-)
Mount18.jpg
23. Put the top frame aside for a while and pick a corner on the lower frame to start mounting the feet`s.(use M5x12 screws with washers on the feet`s) Each foot needs 5 nuts. 2 of them is already in there so you need to add 2 nuts in the top slot and 1 in the outer slot of the 300mm extrusion.
Mount19.jpg
24. IMPORTANT. The next foot you mount must be on the opposite end of the 340mm extrusion that you mounted the first foot on.(To be able to add the right amount of t-slot nuts in the next few steps).
Mount20.jpg
25. Slide 6x T-slot nuts into the top slot, 1 nut in the outer slot and 2 nuts in the bottom slot of the 300mm extrusion.
Mount21.jpg
26. Mount the third foot.
Mount22.jpg
27. Slide 6x T-slot nuts into the top slot and 2 nuts in the bottom slot and 1 nut in the outer slot of the 300mm extrusion on this side too.
Mount23.jpg
28. Mount the fourth foot.
Mount24.jpg
29. Assemble the Y-belt idler in this order. YES IT IS POSSIBLE TO USE ONLY 1x 608 BEARING IF YOUR BELT WITH ALOWS IT!!(cheapass) :p
Mount25.jpg
30. Yes.. Mount the Y-belt idler on the 300mm extrusion that have 2x T-slot nuts in the inner slot. :-) Make sure the Y-belt idler bearing points inwards as seen in photos futher down in this guide. Use M5x12mm screws for this. YES WITH WASHERS!!
Mount26.jpg
31. Add the Y-motor mount to the other side(on the 200mm extrusion oposite to the Y-belt idler) 1x M5x10mm screw on the single inner T-slot nut and 2x M5x12mm in the bottom slot.
Mount27.jpg
32. Mount the 4x Y-smooth rod holders using 8x M5x12 screws with washers(if your washers can fit in the countersunk holes that is.). If not, use screws with big heads or.. (your imagination) These parts don`t need much force to hold onto the Y-rods. Just screw them on loosely, alignment comes later on.
Mount28.jpg
33. Add the corner brackets, lower Z-rod holders and Z-motor holders like this. M5x10mm for the corener braskets and M5x12 for the rest. Screw them on loosely, aligning comes later on.
Mount29.jpg
34. Mount the top frame to the lower frame like this. Pre mounting the T-slot nuts to the screws will make this a lot easier.
Mount30.jpg
35. So far so good eh?
Mount31.jpg
36. A real beauty is born.
Mount32.jpg
37. LOOK AT THAT REAR END!! WOW!!
Mount33.jpg
38. Top Model here we come!.
Mount34.jpg

Assemble the extruder

Vitamins needed in this step

  • 4x M3 nuts
  • 2x springs
  • 1x hobbed bolt
  • 3x 608 bearings
  • 2x M3x60mm
  • 5x M3 washers
  • 2x M8 Nuts
  • 2x M8 Washers
  • 1x M8x19mm bolt
  • 1x M3x25mm screw
  • 1x M3x6mm screw
  • 1x M3x10mm screw
  • 1x M3x8mm screw
  • 3x zipties
  • 3x linear bearings


RP-parts needed in this step

  • Extruder_X_Carriage_Combo_1_Off
  • Extruder_Idler_1_Off
  • Small_Gear_T13_1_Off
  • Large_Gear_T36_1_Off

Mounted as shown in the pictures

1. Parts view.
ExtruderAllParts.jpg
2. The E-stepper is mounted like this.
ExtruderAssembly1.jpg
3. The 2x M3x6mm screws goes closest to the hobbed bolt.
ExtruderAssembly2.jpg
4. And the M3x8mm with a washer on the fork. Don't tighten the screws just yet, so it is possible to move the stepper a bit .
ExtruderAssembly3.jpg
5.Take the Hobbed bolt and add a washer and a 608 bearing to it.
ExtruderAssembly4.jpg
6.Make sure the hobbing ligns up with the filament hole in the extruder body. use thicker or thinner washer/spacer to adjust.
ExtruderAssembly5.jpg
7.Mount the other 608 bearing to the hobbed bolt.
ExtruderAssembly6.jpg
8.and add the large gearwith a M8 nut.
ExtruderAssembly7.jpg
9.Use the large gear to pressfit the bearing into the extruder body if it is tight,
ExtruderAssembly8.jpg
10.take the large gear off again and add a washer under it.
ExtruderAssembly9.jpg
11.and screw it back on.
ExtruderAssembly10.jpg
12. Mount the small gear to the motor shaft
ExtruderAssembly11.jpg
13.Push the stepper towards the large gear so the gears contact each other nicely and tighten the M3 screw on the fork to prevent it from shifting from this position any more.
ExtruderAssembly12.jpg
14.Unmount the small gear.
ExtruderAssembly13.jpg
15.and unmount the large gear.
ExtruderAssembly14.jpg
16.so you can access the last 2 motor screws and tighten them.
ExtruderAssembly15.jpg
17.Mount the large gear back on bit WITH the lock nut this time.
ExtruderAssembly16.jpg
18.hold the large gear tight while you tighten the lock nut.
ExtruderAssembly17.jpg
17.Mount the small gear back on and use the M3 nut and M3x10mm screw to lock it to the motor axle. Be sure the screw hits the flat on the axle. If the axle don't have a flat on it, MAKE ONE(use a file, Dremel or something)
ExtruderAssembly18.jpg
18.Make sure the gears turn nicely. If they don`t somethig is to tight. but not make it so loose that it gets play between the gears because that will cause the gears hitting each other on retraction an wear out very fast.
ExtruderAssembly19.jpg
19.Add a M3 nut into the Extruder Idelr RP part like this.
ExtruderAssembly20.jpg
20.Then the M3x25mm screw like this.
ExtruderAssembly21.jpg
21.Squeeze the bearing with the small M8 axle in like this and make sure it spins nicely.
ExtruderAssembly22.jpg
22.It should now look like this.
ExtruderAssembly23.jpg
23.make sure the slot in the idler fits your filament. file a bit if it is a tight fit.
ExtruderAssembly24.jpg
24.Mount the Idler to the extruder body like this.
ExtruderAssembly25.jpg
25.and screew ALL the 25mm in to make the idler fit and tilt nicely.
ExtruderAssembly26.jpg
26.Add a M3 nut in each of these 2 holes so they lign up with the holes on the side where the Idler spring screws will enter.
ExtruderAssembly27.jpg
27.I dont know why i took this picture but... looks good eh? :-)
ExtruderAssembly28.jpg
28.Mount the springs with washers on both sides on the screws and screw them into the nuts you added in step 26.
ExtruderAssembly29.jpg
29.humm.. yeah.. it should now look like this :D
ExtruderAssembly30.jpg
30.Exactry like this... :/
ExtruderAssembly31.jpg
31.Use the zipties to mount the linear bearings.
ExtruderAssembly32.jpg
32.It is a good idea to have a rod trough these when you tighten the zipties on these 2 so they lign up perfectly.
ExtruderAssembly33.jpg

Mounting the X/Z axes

Vitamins needed in this step

  • 2x 8mm smooth rods x 440mm
4 center* 2x 8mm smooth rods x 405mm
  • 2x M5 threaded rods x 400mm
  • 6x M5 nuts
  • 8x M3 washers
  • 8x M3 nuts
  • 10x M3x12mm screws
  • 4x M3x16mm screws
  • 1X M3x25mm screw (M3x 16 will probably do the job too)
  • 4x Linear bearings that fits the mm smooth rods
  • 8x zipties

RP-parts needed in this step

  • X_End_Idler_1_Off
  • X_End_Motor_1_Off
  • 2x Z_Couplers_M5

+ 2x Nema 17 for the Z lift

Also you need the extruder you assembled earlier.


1.Start by mounting the Z-lifting nema 17 steppers with the 8x M3x12mm screws. mount them loosely as you probably need to adjust them later on.
XandZmount1.jpg
2.Put a M3 nut in each z couplers with a M3x12mm screw in them like this.
XandZmount5.jpg
3.And mount them on the Z motors like this.
XandZmount6.jpg
4.Use 2x M3 nuts to mount the Z zero height addjuster M3x25mm screw like this and use the 8 zipties to mount your linear bearings like this.
XandZmount2.jpg
5.Insert the 4 lock nuts for the X-smooth rods into the x-ends like this.
XandZmount3.jpg
6.and hold them nuts in place with the 4X M3x16mm screws like this.
XandZmount4.jpg
7.Mount 2Xm5 nuts on each of the M5 rod ends and screw them towards each other to lock them in place like this.
XandZmount10.jpg
8.Insert the M5 nuts into the x ends like this.
XandZmount7.jpg
9.Screw the M5 threaded rods into the M5 nuts trough the x ends like this.
XandZmount8.jpg
10.Screw them all the way inn so they look a bit like this.
XandZmount9.jpg
11.mount the x end to the z-couplers like this(here shown the X idler)
XandZmount12.jpg
12.Poke the 8mmx440mm smooth rods trough the Z zmooth tod holder upper RP parts like this.
XandZmount11.jpg
13.slide them into the x end idler linear bearings like this and further into the lower Z smooth rod holders.
XandZmount15.jpg
14.Now do the same with the X-end motor part.
XandZmount13.jpg
15.the z-smooth rods should go all the way trough the RP parts until it hits the alu extrusion.
XandZmount14.jpg
16.Poke the upper X-smooth rodthis far into the X-end idler.
XandZmount16.jpg
17.and add the extruder like this.
XandZmount17.jpg
18. a closer look :-) and poke the smooth rod all the way until it hits the bottom of the hole in the x-end motor RP prart.
XandZmount18.jpg
19.Now poke the other X smooth rod trough the X-end idler, trough the extruder bearings and further into the X-end motor RP part.
XandZmount21.jpg
20.If the x ends is not 100% on same height make them so and then lock the x rods tight with the lock nuts and screws.
XandZmount23.jpg
21.Now it should look like this..
XandZmount25.jpg
22.And this
XandZmount26.jpg
23.Adjust the z motors so the z threaded rosd is paralell witht the z smooth rods both in x and y direction. Just eyeball it as it is good enough. Then screw the z motors tight to the motor holders and then motor holders to the frame so they don't shift anymore
XandZmount24.jpg
24. Imagine a picture of your own proud and happy face here :-)

Mounting the Y-axes

1.
Bed1.jpg
2.
Bed2.jpg
3.
Bed3.jpg
4.
Bed4.jpg
5.
Bed5.jpg
6.
Bed6.jpg
7.
Bed7.jpg
8.
Bed8.jpg
9.
Bed9.jpg
10.
Bed10.jpg
11.
Bed11.jpg
12.
Bed12.jpg
13.
Bed13.jpg
14.
Bed14.jpg
15.
Bed15.jpg
16.
Bed16.jpg
17.
Bed17.jpg
18.
Bed18.jpg
Documentation in progress