Aluminatus TrinityOne Software Electronics

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Aluminatus TrinityOne Documentation


Software

Download The Software

Slicing Software
  • Download Slic3r. This is the software you'll use to convert your 3D model into G-Code. G-Code is what the Aluminatus uses to actually print your model.
  • Alternatively, download KISSlicer. Note, this is less widely used by the 3D Printing community
Printer Control/Gcode Reviewing Software
  • Download Pronterface. This software allows you to print something over USB and manually drive around your bot.
  • Download Repetier Host. This alternative software also allows you to print something over USB and manually driver around your bot. But it also features a fantastic G-Code view to allow you to verify the G-Code before printing.
Firmware Updating Software
  • Download Arduino. This allows you the open the firmware (Marlin), make changes, and upload new firmware to your bot's electronics.
  • Download Marlin. This is the actual firmware files for your electronics. It has been preconfigured and is ready to go.
    • Place the Marlin folder in the Arduino directory for it to be recognized.
    • To flash the firmware to your electronics, refer to this guide.


Electronics

RAMPS

Necessary Additional Steps

Ensure no missed steps
  • If you are experiencing missed steps, ensure the Pololu stepper drivers are set to the appropriate current.
    • Correct stepper voltage is .33v for X&Y, .42 for Z, .475 for E.
  • If you are skipping Y-SIMO steps when printing at higher speeds, lighten the aluminum "dogbones" and the x-plate by drilling a few dozen lightening holes. You can easily remove as much as 150g from the mass of the y-carriage, and this will greatly reduce incidence of Y-skips.
Provide better cooling for Pololu stepper drivers
  • If LCD panel is installed, blocking fan flow
    • Re-locate 40 mm fan to one side, blowing across all driver chips.
    • Upgrade fan if desired (a 60 mm fan will fit).
    • Current best practice recommends not installing heat sinks on these chips.
Verify correct extrusion direction
  • Some printers shipped with a mirrored extruder mount piece (printed). This causes the extruder to run "backwards" since the motor is mounted on the other side.
  • The simplest fix is to remove, flip, and reinstall the 4-wire connector connected to 'E0' on the RAMPS board.
    • POWER OFF your machine before doing this or you will destroy electronics
  • This may also be corrected in the firmware.
    • Look in the Configuration.h file of Marlin for the line: #define INVERT_E0_DIR false
    • Change it to: #define INVERT_E0_DIR true
    • (It might be the other way, you just need to make it "true" or "false", whatever isn't stated there currently)
    • Now reflash Marlin to your electronics. Refer to this guide for help.
  • Note that if a new, correct extruder mount is printed, the direction will need to be re-reversed.

Helpful Additional Steps

Address X-endstop electrical noise issue
  • Re-route X-endstop wiring such that it does not run next to any stepper motor wiring
  • Alternatively, add a 10-100nF ceramic capacitor on the RAMPS side of the wiring (this may be jammed into the connector, which would not require soldering)
  • Alternatively, add a 4700-ohm resistor to the x-endstop wiring (which side?). Some owners have made cable extensions with a resistor, eliminating the need to cut stock wiring.
  • Alternatively, re-wire X-endstop and/or stepper motor wires using shielded, twisted cable.
  • Alternatively, unplug the X-endstop switch at the RAMPS board and ensure that no homing process is inserted into the G-code when printing.
  • Note most of these may be combined.
Verify functionality of the SD card slot
  • If when inserting your SD card you get a 'card inserted' message, but going to the card menu on the LCD gives a 'no card' message:
    • There is a cold solder joint on the panel. Re-solder anything that looks cold until you solve the issue.
  • If when inserting your SD card you do not get a 'card inserted' message:
    • There is a small switch (leaf spring style) on the side of the reader that may have been damaged. Check for misaligned parts, adjust with a pin or other small tool.

Helpful Firmware Tweaks

  • Increase the PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE in the config.h file of Marlin to 20.
    • The default for the value is 10. With a 24 V system, 10 degrees for the hotend is about 1 second when initially heating up so it would overshoot a lot.
  • Make sure your PID is tuned.
    • Values I like:
      • Send M301 P12.5 I0.18 D12.0 to update your hotend PID settings. (Send these commands from Pronterface or something similar)
      • Send M304 P125.0 I0.3 D300.0 to update your Bed PID settings.
      • Now send M500 to save the PID settings to EEPROM.