MDFstrap

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MDFStrap

Release status: Working

MDFStrap-Full-3212014.jpg
Description Build log for 3D Printer made with MDF
License GPL
Author Terryb8s
Contributors
Based-on RepStrap
Categories RepStrap, Wood
CAD Models none
External Link Hacktivate Blog


Contents

MDFStrap Summary

I created this printer just to see if I could in my garage, the chassis is made of MDF and some particle board, the point was to get a good build volume, acceptable quality, and average speed on a small budget, I have taken inspiration from various other RepRap and RepStrap printers, have made many mistakes along the way but intend to keep improving the printer over time, I have recently started using the printer to print parts to improve itself.

Made In NZ

Check out the blog for recent updates Hacktivate Blog

X Axis

Brief

Originally created the X axis using a threaded rod method but found this to be far to slow, so changed it up for a GT2 Belt.

Parts

  • MDF off cuts
  • Particle Board
  • Lots x Self tapping screws
  • 1 x 608 Skate Bearing
  • 2 x LM8UU Linear bearing
  • 2 x 8MM Linear Rod 600mm
  • 1 x Server rack mount rail
  • 1m x GT2 Belt
  • 1 x GT2 16 Tooth Pulley
  • 4 x M8 washer
  • 2 x M8 Nut
  • 3 x M8x30mm fender washer
  • 1 x 8mm threaded rod 50mm
  • 1 x M3 Grub Screw
  • 2-4 x M3x20
  • 2-4 x M3 Washers
  • 2 x Right angle brackets from server rails.
  • Cable Ties
    • (For original build)
    • 1 x 8mm threaded rod 650mm
    • 5 x 8mm nuts
    • 2 x 8mm washer

Instructions

First I cut the server rack rail down with a grinder to allow more horizontal movement, created countersink holes for the countersunk self tap screws, attached some MDF to the back of the rail and for mounting the filament extruder and hotend to. 4 x 8mm holes were drilled for the 8mm rod and LM8UU bearings, particle board was attached and a 22mm hole and 4 x 3mm mounting holes were drilled on the right side for the stepper, an 8mm hole was drilled for the idler on the left, all of these items were attached the the Z Axis

Threaded Rod (Original Build) Instructions

For the threaded rod bearings I used the same method as the Z axis to create indents, for the drive nuts (Z axis ones too) I pressed them into pieces of MDF first drilling a 14mm indent then a 10mm hole, then notching the 14mm indent so the nuts would press in correctly.

Z Axis

Brief

Similar to Mendel and Prusa builds this has dual direct drive steppers.

Parts

  • MDF
  • 2 x 8mm Stainless steel rod (From Mustek 600 flatbed scanner)
  • 4 x 608 skate bearings
  • 14 x 8mm nuts
  • 8 x 8mm washers
  • 3 x 8mm threaded rod (about 1.5 meters)
  • Several self tapping screws (holes drilled for guide)

Instructions

I used more MDF off cuts to create the Z Axis, 8mm holes were cut for the stainless steel rods, 22mm indents were cut with a wedge drill bit then 10mm holes in the centre for the threaded rod, 8mm holes were cut for the centre threaded rod which was then used to make the distance between the sides accurate from top to bottom.

Y Axis

Brief

This was built using a Agfa Flatbed scanner.

Parts

  • Stepper Cog Teeth: 24
  • Belt Pioneer 419MXL
  • 65.6814 steps per\mm

Extruder

Brief

I ended up buying this as it seemed like something that would be hard for me to get right otherwise, the original one is made of ABS.

Instructions

I didn't have any sheet metal so I cut a bit out of the power supply casing for the Agfa scanner I stripped for parts, this was then used for securing J-Head Hotend to the gregs extruder.

Reference

Greg's Hinged Extruder

Electronics

Components

  • Sainsmart Arduino Mega 2560
  • Sainsmart Ramps 1.4
  • Sainsmart Endstops
  • Sainsmart Full LCD Controller
  • Sainsmart Heat Bed
  • Xbox 360 Power Supply (to be replaced)
  • 5 x Nema 17 Steppers

Prints

Here are some things I have printed so far.