braking a new hot-end in under 60 seconds

yep, broke a hot end in under a minute:


i'm using a prusa, and this is the hot-end from mendel-parts v5
i broke the one before while trying to get my printer up and running,
so ordered a new one, it takes 1 month to get here (what is funny, cause i live only 200 km from eindhoven)

the telfon thing broke at the same place as the time before, so thats a sign i think.
i now found that nophead says that just the screws aren't enough to hold the hot end, and i think he's 100% right:
wade extruder
so here is my question:
1) do i need that peek block as extra support? (i think yes)
2) how do i attach it to my X-carriage or wade? (i think of drilling 2 holes and tapping wire in one hole, and attach the other with a bolt)
3) does someone has a good preference file for red snapper, for a prusa with sanguinopopulu and wade? because for now i'm also guessing
4)someone from belgium on here who can have a look at my printer?

the good news is that in that 60 seconds i tried to print the symbol "pi" and it worked (the 1st layer at least)
so now i have something i printed that looked a bit as what i wanted it to look like.
and the other good news is that i bought 3 more spare telfon parts

thanks
pieter

With that design, you do need a PEEK block as extra support. I had an aluminum plate made to go between the hot end and the Wade extruder. The plate had tapped holes for M3 screws to support the PEEK block and matching holes for the mounting holes and the PTFE hole in the Wade extruder. I've seen others do the same. I think there maybe a version of the Wade extruder that has the mounting holes.

The best thing to do is to use a different hot end. One of the newer designs that uses PEEK with PTFE lining as insulator works best. Mendel-Parts sell those too. Lately, I bought a Budaschnozzle from lulzbot.com and found this to be a big improvement in terms of thermal insulation.

I broke my Mendel V6 on my Sells mendel. Now I have a J head nozzle with the lining sleeve and it's much better

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__________________________________________________________________________
Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand

i'm trying a design with a wood block, a metal sleeve and a Teflon tube insert. the basic idea is the same as all above reduce the stress and fatigue of the teflon parts. Teflon becomes soft and flexibly around 150-200c. to go at current speeds requires over 6kg of force constantly on the hot end.

BTW i have seen people use wooden stock in place of ptfe . wood does burn until around 300c

Possenier,

I had precisely the same issue as you (twice

I have now made a hotend similar to Adrain's mimi extruder (http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Universal_Mini_Extruder) except that I use the mendel-parts v5 metal hot-end part (i.e. the part that didn't break). So, I have a PEEK part where you have a (broken) PTFE part. I put a PTFE lining down the inside. I'm working with 1.75mm filament

So, far it's worked a treat (I had soooooo many extruder jams before)

I do not have any extra support (like the normal PEEK cuboid that goes over the nozzle). However, my previous breakages have made me very careful about overstressing the hotend (e.g. letting it scrape through overfilled print jobs). so, I may just have been lucky so far.

Where do you live? I'm in Brussels (feel free to send a message off forum)
I have a spare PTFE part you could have (3mm) though I see you have others on the way now. That could get you going again quickly for now.

Cheers

Pete

hey,
i still have 3 teflon things to brake, so i can still (try to) print.
i'm going to add the PEEK block tonight and see how it holds up.

i'll probably just get another type of extruder if i can't get this one to work

i'm from kortrijk

I have one those those, but secured by the peek block and 2 threaded rods. Never got a problem.

I believe those are not designed to operate without the peek attachment.

I was have same hotend and was broke in minutes .
was try to glue with cement, with silicon (600ºC) with wrong result.
Use a PTFE block and screw to X-carrier. no more problems.

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Mendel Prusa with Gen7 v1.2 PCB , Wade's extruder 0.7mm. Custom Heated bed.
"BIG" Mendel Pusa with modified Gen7 V1.3 PCB , Wade's extruder 0.5mm with modified hotend (about 500x600x450mm printable area) <--- under construction
Plastics: Black PLA, Soft PLA, White ABS
Software: Skeinforge 4 for STL to GCODE, RepRap Host for print GCODE. Blender for STL designs.

i drilled 2 holes in the wade, cut M4 wire in them, added the PEEK block, and it's working perfect.
i made my first prints yesterday, and i'm happy how they turned out for a first print:
[www.youtube.com]
bad quality, but my phone was present at the time, and it was to fun to look at to get a camera out.

so, the building is done, now the other part starts: fine tuning.
the X and Y axis are pretty much spot on, but i think it needs to raise the Z axis a little bit more every time, because after about 10 layers the print starts to hit the hot-end some times, and after 15 layers i stop printing because i'm afraid it's going to get damaged.
i got replicator G to work now also.
i also figured out that my X axis is mirrored

That extruder seems to be going really fast for the feed rate. You should calibrate the steps per mm for the extruder in the firmware.

that was also the reason i broke the other ones,
the reason was that i generaded my gcode in replicatorG with the wrong settings.
i now used the good ones for a prusa mendel with wade extruder, and it's going a whole lot slower, but i printed something about 10 x 10 cm
and it did even the infill perfect from the first go, so it's now probably at the correct speed.

For Replicator G users, does anyone know how i can mirror my X-axis, but keep the end stop where it is (and works now)?
i also installed my heated bed with the extrusion cut at the wrong place. can i change something in skeinfore settings to where it needs to be?
and if i can add a little bit more Z space on every next level?

anyway, i'm very happy to get this far, i started this whole thing with "here goes nothing" and had a lot of things not working, but hey, it's about the journey, not the destination.

@ possenier:

In the area where it broke - what was the thread diameter and the diameter of the inside hole pls?

The hobbed bolt was probably slipping on the feed in that video. After printing that part at the wrong settings, you should open the extruder an clean the plastic between the teeth or it will continue to slip and not work properly.

NoobMan Wrote:
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> @ possenier:
>
> In the area where it broke - what was the thread
> diameter and the diameter of the inside hole pls?

here you go:
[www.mendel-parts.com]
in short, outside M8 inside 3.5mm

and, brnrd, i did already, thanks.
i like how you have 2^10 posts. and i like this is a forum where i know i'm not the only one who will have seen that

Quote
possenier
i like how you have 2^10 posts. and i like this is a forum where i know i'm not the only one who will have seen that

That's a milestone and I missed it!