PLA or ABS for prusa parts?

iya guys need some peoples views on the subject.

i am in the process of reprinting my prusa as the parts i bought are just rubbish. also i want a backup set incase something ever breaks ect.

i use PLA as my machine is in my bedroom so i dont want nasty smeels ect which i have heard ABS has.

but should i get some ABS and do me a run of prusa parts? i take it ABS is a lot stronger for this ?

also im mainly using a .35mm j-head for my pla stuff

i have a .5mm j-head nocking around (needs new thermal barrier) does ABS work better with .5?

iv just ordered a 60cm sample of ABS from a supplier see whats its like to print with.

but if you guys says PLA parts are okay then i wont bother ill just print them all in PLA

i have noticed though my PLA parts iv tested so far are a bit brittle on bendy parts which has a screw putting tension on them

I think different people will give you different answers there, so I'll start with mine :

I prefer PLA for everything that is not too close to heat, because PLA usually is not as soft as ABS and makes a structure more rigid and sturdy.

I 'd use ABS for the X carriage and hotend adapter plate because it's probably gonna take some heat from the hotend. Or just use a fan blowing on the cold end of the hotend, and you can make everything there PLA. All this highly depend on the design of the machine and hotend.

Another part for which I'd potentially use ABS could be motor mounts, if those motors run hot.


Edit : Oh also another couple of uses for ABS are parts that needs to flex (springs...) and parts that you will need to manually modify afterwards (ABS is far more easier to machine by hand than PLA).

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/29/2012 05:43AM by DeuxVis.

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Most of my technical comments should be correct, but is THIS one ?
Anyway, as a rule of thumb, always double check what people write.

yes its the non flex in PLA i have been having trouble with.

i printed an x carriage as soon as the lm8uu got near it SNAP

thought it could be me and layers not sticking enough on small areas

PLA is a HEADACHE to clean up. If you are printing parts, at least print the entire x-carriage in ABS.

I prefer ABS while using precision bushings and bearings. If cash strapped then use pla bushings for hardness. I think abs is more durable.

how is ABS for bridges and overhangs ? PLA i hate for this cannot get a decent bridge without bottom layer drooping

Yes, bridges are easier with ABS in my experience.

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Most of my technical comments should be correct, but is THIS one ?
Anyway, as a rule of thumb, always double check what people write.

For PLA, the biggest help in push-fit objects is a small hot air embossing tool, picked up from an arts and crafts store. I just let it get to temperature, wave it over the target area for about 2-3 seconds and it will flex enough to let it in. I do the same when there's a stubborn captive nut detent that won't effectively capture the nut: I thread a screw from the opposite side, mount the nut, and position it at the right angle. Then I use my thumb and index finger to pull on the screw from the head side and simultaneously push against the print and, with my other hand, wave the embossing tool over the nut for not more than 2 seconds and it just slides in.

I've got a crazy mix of cast urethane, PLA, and ABS on my printer right now, I'm still working on higher quality prints but my overall plan is to reprint in PLA. Interestingly enough, my X carriage and extruder are both PLA, and never had heat problems with the Budaschnozzle v1.0. I switched to Makergear's hot end after a head crash ruined the Budaschnozzle and I only had an issue when I tried to use it without the wooden mounting plate. Right now I only print in PLA, though, so I'd definitely invest in a cold end fan if I ever want to try bootstrapping into ABS.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/29/2012 10:36AM by Mazaw.

I have a sells mendel completely in PLA and a V2 Prusa in complete PLA too te sells has been use to make over 50 sets of prusa's and is till going strong apart from my skipped steps issue which is not related to PLA, my prusa is only just coming on stream and so far is working well despite being all PLA

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Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand

for people who print parts for prusa in PLA

is it normal to HAVE to heat up the x carriage lm8uu holders to get them in without breakage?

just printed me a new x carriage and i had to heat with a hair dryer to get them in which in turn was a pain as the lm8uus were already on the prusa which in turn turn warped the carriage a bit so i have to heat up again and warp back.

Enlightx Wrote:
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> for people who print parts for prusa in PLA
>
> is it normal to HAVE to heat up the x carriage
> lm8uu holders to get them in without breakage?
>
> just printed me a new x carriage and i had to heat
> with a hair dryer to get them in which in turn was
> a pain as the lm8uus were already on the prusa
> which in turn turn warped the carriage a bit so i
> have to heat up again and warp back.

No but I do it anyway

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Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand

What about High Impact PLA like http://www.diamondage.geekofarm.com/?page_id=150 I haven't tried this but am keen to try it out. As others have said ABS would be a better choice where heat is concerned.

Haven't tried that but Viks normal PLA is of a very good quality

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Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand